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Best Query of the Day

 

Funkiest Query of the Day... a tie
<Bob, where are you?! -Sara M.>


P.E. xanthometopon 05/14/08
Hi All,
<Daren>
You guys/gals rock! Love the site! Been successful with the hobby in the last 3 yrs because of it! Much kudos gang! Real quick question that I haven't been able to find. Is there any difference between the blueface angelfish that have the black eye spot on its tail and ones that do not?
Thanks, Daren
<Just the spot... about the same (low) adaptability/survivability in captivity. Bob Fenner>

Petco -- Where the fish go... maybe not to die? 05/14/08
Hey, guys. I know I've written to Bob a few times about my job at Petco. Both complaining and ranting and a bit of positive (most of the positive
coming form my actions, though -- not the company's!). Anyways, what are your odds on Petco getting a Harlequin Tusk out of Australia and not the Indo-Pacific?
<Mmm, depends on who the supplier is... the price likely drives corporate to buying the P.I. ones>
Question asked because we've had one at our store for a few weeks now. He's much bluer than the Indo-Pacific ones I've seen at most LFSs and has eaten mysis like a pig since we got him.
<Good signs>
Well, he was originally $90. $15 sale + my 20% discount + another 25% coupon off and he was a $40 fish. Really too much off to resist. He's in my
quarantine and is, of course, eating like a pig. A few specs of crypt (which don't bother me as all of the other aspects such as him being alert, swimming calmly around, and eating a lot are much more important factors to me) to lose in the QT, but everything else about the fish leads me to believe he's an exemplary specimen. I do despise ONE of our two suppliers, as the fish are constantly terrible, but the other has delivered some fantastic fish (Bartlett's Anthias that have eaten the day we got them and have done fantastic in customer's tanks, plate-sized yellow tangs with the same results, etc etc).
<Ah, good>
Not sure where this tusk came from, but I've gotta admit -- it's pretty nice. I'm not usually one to buy our own fish, but the new supplier (A&M Aquatics) has given us some nice, extremely healthy stuff -- so props to them.
<Good>
On to the second question pertaining to the few specs of crypt. I treat my fish with Crypt-Pro (Quinine Sulphate) from National Fish Pharmacy (great people, great product). I've seen and heard of tusks being sensitive to some medications. Any idea how they react to the Quinine treatment?
<Usually w/ no problem>
I'd assume fine being that it's recommended for sharks and rays as well. Just getting a second opinion.
- Jon
<Please... do stay in the industry. We need good people. Bob Fenner>

Hyposalinity -Marine Ich- Fighting Back 05/14/08
Hello to the WWM Crew:
<Hey there! Scott F. in today!>
I had some thoughts that I'd like to get your opinion on. Many times in the past, I've used the hyposalinity method and most recently used that method
along with chloroquine phosphate. During the treatment everything looks good, but as soon as I start to increase the salinity, the parasite reappears. From what I was reading about Cryptocaryon is that hyposalinity prevents the cysts from hatching from the tomont stage. If this is accurate how does
hyposalinity kill the parasite?
<The theory is that these more simple life forms are unable to make the osmotic adjustment to the lower salinity, and perish in the process.>
So my question is what happens to these unhatched cysts?
<Well, assuming that they are not damaged by the lower salinity, they will follow their normal reproductive cycle and multiply by division over the course of several days.>
Do they die from not hatching? Do they basically explode due to the difference between their internal salinity and the surrounding water?
<That's the theory..damage occurs to their cell structure as a result of the process.>
Do they lay
dormant until the SG is increased ready to wreak havoc on the fish once again?
<Interesting thought. Typically, they will reproduce over the course of a few days to three weeks, with each cyst multiplying up to 300-400 "swimmers".>
I'm thinking if they do not hatch then how can treatments such as chloroquine phosphate, copper and even formalin work if the parasite doesn't make it to the free swimming stage?
<The causative protozoa are destroyed in pretty much any stage by aggressive chemical treatments, such as copper sulphate. My approach has always been a "two front" war: Remove ALL fishes from the aquarium where the infestation occurred, and treat the fishes with copper sulphate in a separate aquarium. The copper will kill the protozoa on the fishes themselves. The display is essentially "fallow", without fishes, for at least 4 weeks. This will deprive them of their hosts-your fishes, and essentially disrupt the life cycle. Obviously, without a host, parasites will die, unable to complete their life cycle.>
Right now my SG is at 1.010 and I'm thinking it should be higher in order for the cysts to hatch and ultimately be eradicated with medication in the free swimming stage.
Thanks,
Gene
<Well, Gene, you're preaching to the choir here= I'm not a big fan of the hyposalinity treatment. The fishes are undergoing enough stress just being sick, relocated, and subjected to harsh chemicals..lowering the specific gravity just adds another layer of stress, IMO. I keep it simple, as outlined above. Hope this helps! Regards, Scott F.>

Plectroglyphidodon imparipennis, Locating a Hard-to-Find Damselfish 05/14/08
Hello Bob and Crew!
<Hey there! Scott F. in today!>
I was recently on O'ahu and had the pleasure of snorkeling all around the island. I found the Brighteye Damselfish (Plectroglyphidodon imparipennis) to be quite abundant among the rubble on the leeward shore.
<Yes it is!>
Quite an interesting fish to watch, and a species that seems to stay on the smallish side. However, I have not been able to locate any for sale locally (NY state) or online. I don't think they are endemic to Hawaii. Can you tell me where one might procure one, or why they aren't available in the trade?
Thanks for the help.
Eric
<Well, Eric, it's hard to say why fishes such as this are not found more often in the hobby. It generally boils down to a couple of things- ease of capture/accessibility and whether or not their is a ready market for them. Typically, fishes like Damsels that are not small and outrageously brightly colored just don't find their way into the trade. If there is no financial incentive for the collector, their is little chance of the fishes ever seeing the market. Subtle, average colored fishes just don't always move well out of dealer's aquariums. However, if you have a good relationship with your LFS, the owner may keep an eye out for them if they show up on wholesaler's stock lists. I'd also consider a source like Live Aquaria or Marine Center. You can contact them and let them know that you're looking for this fish, and they will often notify you if they are in stock. Otherwise, keep an eye out at local fish stores, just in case they show up in an aquarium of "assorted Damsels". Good luck on your search! Regards, Scott F.>

Issues with my Clark clown
RE: Aggressive Clownfish, Clarkii, Suitable Tank Mates, Now Chromis Injury – 5/15/08
Brenda,
<Hello!>
I have observed something interesting regarding my Chromis problem. As I mentioned previously I watch the tank A LOT it's become less of a hobby for me and more of an obsession.
<I understand the obsession!>
I was down to 4 Chromis and took your advice about removing the crabs. I have removed more than a handful and I believe there are only 3 left.
The 3 left are emerald crabs that have grown immensely!
One of them I call the BEAST!
<”Beast” is an appropriate name, in my opinion!>
He is actually the size of a quarter and his arms are maybe an inch if stretched to capacity. I wonder if he has gotten so big due to the fish ha has possibly digested.
Anyway, my fifth Chromis who is no longer with us had developed something on his side that looked like a bruise of some sort almost like a blood stain but it wasn’t bleeding.
<Ouch!>
He passed and when I found his body there was a whole in the middle of him where this abnormality was located as I could no longer see it when I removed him. I now notice I have another Chromis displaying similar traits as the fifth one that died. He is hiding in the rockwork but briefly came out today and when he turned I saw the same thing on one of his sides. Could this be an attack or something else?
<Possibly! However, I’m betting it is caused from rough handling during collection. If it was an attack from a crab in your tank, I believe the Chromis would have already been somebody’s dinner. The Emerald Crab has a powerful grip! More information on Chromis injury found here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/chromdisfaqs.htm >
I watched the tank last night and though my clown give chase to the Chromis it doesn't last long and I never see them actually catch them which leads me to believe these deaths are the result of predatory crabs rather than my clowns or maybe something else.
<I agree that the clownfish is likely innocent.>
Does this description ring any bells?
<Sure does!>
The other three Chromis are still alive, active, and are eating.
<Good! With a little luck, this will continue!>
I fear the fourth will not recover and another Chromis might end up like the last two.
<You are correct here. Brenda>

Need help with ph and hardness 5/15/08
Hi, I am a little confused with what is happening with my tank. Hoping you guys can shed some light.
<Will try.>
I have a 28 gallon freshwater tank, penguin bio-wheel 150 filter, keeping it at 80 degrees. Its planted with a fair number of plants. I have eco-complete substrate with a layer of CaribSea "peace river" gravel on top. As far as decor I have a fake stump and two decent sized pieces of sandstone. I’m trying to get the tank conditions perfect for the 4 Bolivian Rams I have, hoping to see some spawning. 5 months ago when the tank was first set up, before the rams, I was using 100% tap water and conditioning it. My tap conditions according to test strips I have are GH 200 ppm, KH 140 ppm, and pH about 8. So a few weeks after set-up I started using RO water in attempt to lower ph and hardness.
<A good investment.>
At that time I also started using Seachem acid buffer, not really knowing what I was doing. Used acid buffer for about a week and it dropped kh pretty low, lowered pH a little also. I got worried about that stuff and stopped using it. I slowly moved into doing 100% RO water changes to see what would happen. I did that for 2 months and no change in ph and no change in hardness. I cant seem to understand how despite consistently adding water with 0 minerals to my tank, the GH wouldn’t budge.
<Agreed, it should.>
pH either for that matter. These were 5 gallon water changes. So after all my plants started dying off and realizing that pure RO is bad, I have begun doing 5 gallon water changes of about 80% RO and 20% tap. I also fertilize my plants twice a week now with Flourish and have a DIY CO2 system that runs into a Rio powerhead. Plants are doing amazing now, pH lowered immediately to about 7.5. I have about 1 bubble per second into the powerhead, maybe slightly faster. This method seems to be working great for plants and algae, everything looks good.
<Good.>
But I still have hard water. I was worried maybe the sandstone rocks in the tank were doing it, but I put one of the rocks in a bucket of RO water for a week and the water still measured 0 GH.
<Hmm, sandstone can have solubles in it that can raise the hardness of the water. One piece may not, another may.>
So I assume the rocks aren’t a problem.
<In all likelihood they are.>
Was considering getting real driftwood, would that help out a lot?
<Not much, certainly nowhere near using RO water.>
How long does it work for?
<It can benefit your system for quite a while, at a slow rate.>
Or maybe peat. But do these things lower pH and GH?
<Yes.>
As of now I’m at GH 200 ppm, KH 50 ppm, and pH 7.5. Any ideas?
Thanks, Danny.
<Danny, I would remove the sandstone for a while to see if there is a difference. Using RO water should be lowering your hardness, it is leaching in somewhere and the sandstone is likely the culprit. Do read the following articles regarding soft water use. Once you get your problem under control you will likely want a ph buffer to keep you ph stable. Good luck, Scott V.>
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWsubwebindex/fwsoftness.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWsubwebindex/fwh2oquality.htm

Fixture Size 5/15/08
Hello Bob {and crew},
<Hello, Scott V. with you.>
I have a quick question....I'm currently setting up a 75 gallon reef tank and I have run into a slight problem with my lighting. The canopy I am going to use fits snug to the top of my tank {like normal canopies do...lol}, so this prevents me from using a 48" fixture. AARGH.
<I here you, frustrating. Do realize that many of the T5 fixtures actually measure in at 47-47.5” . This is one of the advantages of T5’s, they were developed to fit inside canopies!>
I plan on using T5's {most versatile for easy corals/invertebrates I plan to keep} - subject to change per your advice/my further research!
<T5 is a fine choice.>
My question is, do you see a problem with me utilizing a 36" fixture{s} or something other than the 48" fixture?
<No, although your tank will be a bit darker on the ends, you will need to place livestock accordingly.>
How about placement of a shorter fixture?
<Likely in the middle, you could put it to one side if you like the look (it will leave the other end dark).>
I'm trying to stay away from the cliché of a normal wattage per gallon, having said that, what’s a good ratio for beginner corals and inverts? 3-4...lol?
<Of course this depends entirely on what you wish to keep, but 4 watts per will serve you for what most consider beginner corals.>
Your advice and instruction on what I should do is greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time in helping us less informed!
Jay
<Welcome, have fun with the new tank! Scott V.>