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Astronotus ocellatus (Agassiz 1831), the Oscar. To seventeen inches (45.7 cm). South America: Rio Amazonas basin in Peru, Colombia, Brazil, Northern Paraguay and French Guiana. Freshwater: pH range: 6.0 - 8.0; dH range: 5.0 - 19.0, temp. 22 - 25°C. Wild type at  the Shedd Aq. 2015 
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Freshwater FAQs, Ask us a question: Crew@WetWebMedia.com

Updated 3/19/2018
Other Specialized Daily FAQs Blogs: General, Planted Tanks, Ponds, Brackish, Last Few Days Accrued FAQs,
Daily Q&A replies/input from the WWM crew: Darrel Barton,
Neale Monks, Marco Lichtenberger, Bob Fenner, are posted here. Moved about, re-organized daily Current Crew Bios., Not so current Crew Bios

New Print and eBook on Amazon

Betta Success
Doing what it takes to keep Bettas healthy long-term

by Robert (Bob) Fenner

freshwater angel     3/18/18
I've looked pretty thoroughly through your site and others and haven't found exactly the right combo of symptoms. I've had this fish for 5yrs+ and has always lived in this 55g with 4 rummy nose and a Cory for the last
several-where others over time. I have a BioWheel, sponge filter and an undergravel at the opposite side.
<Okay... no further data, pix? Bob Fenner>
Re: freshwater angel     3/18/18

Sorry but my earlier message was in process when it got accidently sent. I also want to thank you so much in advance, I've learned so much from you experts that are so willing with your time. this is the first time I haven't
been able find a problem just like mine.
To continue-the BioWheel is a Penguin 350 . This angel loves to hang at the quiet end of the tank which is towards the kitchen and almost all activity, watching and of course waiting for food.
Due to life and a loosing some enthusiasm (there at one time was also 9 15-30gs, 1 15g, a 10, several 3's and up to 8+ beta bowls) I let this tank get into poor condition with surface algae that covered the glass and objects and I rarely changed water. I know, what can I expect.
<Indeed! But some fish do thrive on benign neglect, notably many of the hardier catfish and characins. They have quite a high tolerance for nitrate. Angels, like most cichlids, are sensitive to high nitrate to varying degrees, and are less good choices for tanks that need to be ultra low maintenance.>
I'd never kept fish before this earlier onslaught, I was doing it reluctantly for the man I took care of who decided he wanted to raise guppies. The story is too long but needless to say the plan changed, I got into it, had variety of fish and learned all I could. I'm one of those that needs to get all the facts especially when things go wrong.
Now back to angel. About a week and a half ago he started to not eat as aggressively and then having opaque stringy elimination.
<Oh darn! This sounds a good deal like Hexamita. Stringy clear or off-white faeces are a good sign that the gut is evacuating extra mucous compared to normal, which usually implies something is irritating the gut. It might be
a worm infection, but much more likely to be Hexamita, which is almost ubiquitous among farmed cichlids.>
He still acted normal-no outward symptoms of anything wrong. In past searches for issues concerning previous fish, I came across an explanation for the opaque discharge that made more sense than most others that I'd
read or heard. It's merely the mucous that is used to accompany elimination but either there's no waste or an over production due to an internal issue.
<Do see above.>
Since he wasn't eating I figured it was the former. He then started to breathe heavily, but didn't hang around the surface like he was gasping for air, was swimming and positioning himself normally. I cleaned the algae, did some water change and tested the water parameters. To my surprise they were all perfect except the hardness and as I understand if they are used to it that's ok. I then noticed the base of his left pec fin has a red line and a very thin one along the dorsal and pectoral. It hasn't gotten any worse-maybe a little better. I got bloodworms to see if they made any difference in his appetite before starting medication. He ate several the first time. he later had some poop in his string, tried some more and but at this time will only scoop them up and spit them out.
I have tetracycline on hand, enough to do a course of 4 day with one dose per day plus one. Should I use something else?
<Yes! Hexamita is protozoan, and antibiotics will have no effect at all.>
I also have some Duramycin-10 on hand but I don't know how to mix it properly. It says there is 25g of tetracycline per pound. I measured the contents of a packet and there's .066 oz. would that be the same
measurement for the Duramycin?
<Again, this is an antibiotic, and of no use here.>
Oh how do I find my answer?
Thanks again, Merri
<What you need is Metronidazole, about the only thing that works reliably against Hexamita. In some places you may need to get this from a vet, but in the US at least you can buy it from aquarium shops, Seachem's Metroplex
product for example. Use as instructed, remembering to remove carbon from the filter (if you use carbon) as all that will do is remove the medicine!
Cheers, Neale.>
Re: freshwater angel     3/19/18

Thanks so much, I don't bother with charcoal, again earlier read that it only lasts a short time and by now I've even forgotten what purpose it serves.
<Primarily, removes the yellowing chemicals that you see in the water if you don't do many water changes. Was useful when people changed very little water in their tanks for months on end, but since the 1980s, the value of
weekly water changes has been better understood, and most people change at least some water once or twice a month. End result, water doesn't go yellow, so carbon not really needed.>
I did isolate him last night and started the tetracycline while waiting. I see API has a packet form that only calls for a course of once every 48 hrs with only 2 treatments and Seachem same but for up to 3 weeks or until see improvement. Also mixing with frozen food. If he starts to eat, is what's mixed with the food be the only dose or also treat the water.
<Not sure why you're using Tetracycline at all. Unlikely to help Hexamita.
As for the Metronidazole, simply follow the instructions on the packaging.
Mardel Clout and Seachem Metroplex are the two most popular versions, I think. Clout is especially useful and works well with cichlids. You add it to the water.>
I would guess longer than 2 doses is necessary. What might be the prognosis as this may have been going on for some weeks as the stringy poop was actually the first symptom but at that time didn't notice any other issues. I hoped cleaning the tank would have been the answer but also kept looking around the internet-even took pictures/video into a pet store, was
maybe going to get furan 2 from research but wasn't sure. When Melafix was recommended I moved on.
<Indeed, Melafix would certainly be useless here. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: freshwater angel     3/19/18

My last reply was confusing-made it more clear. I did pick up and start the Metronidazole.
Only the API brand is available around here. Looked up Mardel Clout and I see it's exactly for his symptoms. Thanks again.
<Most welcome. Neale.>

Purple Thai Devil Crab - eggs???     3/18/18
Hey there! I work at an LFS, and a while back due to a clerical error we received a big shipment of Thai Devil Crabs instead of micro crabs. Mind you, not vampire or red claw crabs - these are the big, beefy purple ones.
<Oh my! One of the so-called Soapdish Crabs in the trade, which need to be packed individually, sometimes even in soap-dishes, to stop them killing each other!>
Just a little bit not what we had in mind!
<I'll say. Interesting pets, but very much one-to-a-tank creatures.>
Anyways, we had to scramble to figure out an appropriate habitat for them, and you guys were really useful in finding information for these fairly uncommon critters. I think I've got my coworkers turned on to using your site for reliably accurate info.
<Ah, that's nice; thanks for these kind words!>
Out of our original 12 crabs, we've sold down to 3.
<Not bad!>
We've had them housed this whole time in a brackish setup maintained at 0.01 salinity, and it's been working out well. As their numbers have dwindled they get happier and more active every day.
<Sounds good. They may be aggressive towards one another, and are certainly opportunistic cannibals, so keeping these, or indeed most other crabs, in groups tends to end badly. Since a singleton only really needs something like a 5 gallon tank, they're not super-demanding in terms of requirements, but they're definitely not social or community animals.>
Due to a maintenance issue with the brackish setup, we moved them temporarily to an empty freshwater tank we deemed suitable for them, intending on moving them back in a few days. Within 24 hours, the biggest crab started practically throwing little yellow eggs across the tank.
We've vacuumed some of them up to keep them safe from the other crabs, but she just keeps laying them! I can find virtually NO information about this.
Everywhere I've turned I'm finding advice regarding vampire crabs or red devil crabs, but nothing about Thai Devils.
<Right now, I don't think anyone even knows which species of crab this is.
That's the main problem here. They may be Geosesarma species, like the Vampire Crabs. In this species the females carry the eggs until they're ready to hatch, at which point she dumps them in a freshwater pool, where
the tiny crabs hatch out and make their own way into the leaf-litter to hide away from predators. What might astonish you is that these Vampire Crab species were discovered and sold in the aquarium trade for many years
before scientists had a chance to identify them! Anyway, the Vampire Crabs were then described as Geosesarma dennerle (the purple species) and Geosesarma hagen (the red species), which you might recognise as names of German manufacturers of aquarium equipment. The Thai Purple Devil Crab remains a mystery to me, at least. Besides Geosesarma species, there's a good chance it could be one of the rice field crabs, Parathelphusa species, or else a Syntripsa species like the Syntripsa matanensis, or else a land crab Cardisoma species such as Cardisoma carnifex -- all of these have purple colours on them, and do turn up in the trade. You might care to look up photos of these species and genera, and see if anything looks particularly close to your chap.>
I guess I'm wondering if any of you knew if this was normal or healthy?
<It's a good sign.>
Do these crabs scatter eggs, and is their egg laying stimulated by fresh water, or do you suppose she flung them out due to stress from the move?
<Could be either, really. Changes in their environment are often 'spawning triggers' for many animals, indicating, for example, the rainy season.
Since these crabs are semi terrestrial, they're well able to walk between freshwater pools, dry land, and slightly brackish pools, and it's probably worth offering all three habitats, initially at least, to see which they prefer. Given we simply don't know what species the Purple Thai Devil Crab might be, it's really hard to state precisely which spawning or living conditions are optimal.>
If this is healthy or normal, what in the way of special care might the eggs require if they're fertile?
<If they're fertilised, the eggs will hatch and either larvae or mini crabs will emerge. If the former, brackish or even marine conditions will be most likely, but the mini crabs just get on with life from the get-go, and simply need to be kept away from potential predators, which includes one another! A soft marshy habitat with lots of moss or leaf litter is probably ideal, but you might equally try a shallow tank with warm water, a sponge filter, and various bits of stone or wood for hiding places and to allow them to climb out of the water.>
Would they need a salinity level like their parents, or do the larvae start out in fresh water and move on down to brackish later?
<Difficult to say. The mini crab type just get on with whatever's around them, so salinity isn't an issue. They'll probably spend more time on land anyway, only dipping in the water to refresh their gills. The larval type
are much more difficult to rear, and probably not worth fussing over. But to cut a long story short, what usually happens here is the larvae drift down to sea, or at least some friendly mangrove, develop there, and then when they have metamorphosed they start working their way back into rivers or dry land, as the case may be.>
I know this was a bit wordy, feel free to edit it down. There's just not much I can find online, and while I've been searching for hours the eggs are still sitting in a bucket of fresh water. I hope they're okay!
<So do I! I'd like to see a photo or two; might help to ID these crabs.>
Thanks for listening,
<Most welcome. Neale.>

Injured Danio      3/17/18
Hi guys!
<Hello Susan,>
One of my long fin zebra Danios was discovered stuck head down in a section of my tank's driftwood yesterday.
<Not good.>
I found him a couple of weeks ago in the same predicament. Fortunately, I only had to tilt the wood to one side for him to swim free. He is pretty scraped up on one side with his scales roughed up and a red spot under his pectoral fins that now juts out at his side at a 90° angle. Since his injury he is being bullied by the other Danios in his school, although he continues to swim with them. Last night I noticed the redness was more pronounced and he wasn't coming up to eat so I decided to move him to a 5 gallon hospital tank with a cycled sponge filter.
<Fish generally don't "get stuck" though I have seen Corydoras catfish stuck inside hollow ornaments because of their spines, and if they can't escape quickly enough to take a gulp of air, such catfish can drown. No, normally when we see fish "stuck" somewhere, they've actually drifted there, unable to swim strongly enough to control where they're going. Think of them more like a bit of flotsam, drifted up onto a beach somewhere. Sometimes the problem can be over-strong water currents rather than anything wrong with the fish in question. Bettas for example find it hard to swim because of their very long fins, so need tanks with gentle water currents. Artificial varieties of fish with veil-tails and other longer than normal fins may suffer from the same problem because their fins increase drag (imagine trying to swim in baggy, waterlogged clothes) while their swimming muscles are no stronger than those of normal fish.>
I hated to remove him from his school, but I wanted to treat with Kanaplex and give him some time away from the other bullies. I now think that he has probably been stressed and bullied all along.
<Quite likely. Danios are aggressive towards each other. I've kept them in groups of six, and find they fight all the time! I would definitely keep a big group, eight or more, and crucially, I would not mix regular and long-fin varieties, the latter being too "encumbered" to compete well, so (more) likely to end up at the bottom of the hierarchy.>
Question. Should I keep him in the hospital tank for the three days of treatment or is this just additional stress?
<A singleton Danio will be fine for a few days, even a couple of weeks if you need to medicate / re-medicate. Prioritise the medication instructions in terms of doses, etc. But when you return him/her to the main tank, certainly turn the lights off for a few hours to prevent bullying the "newcomer", or better yet, remove all of them temporarily, move some of the rocks or plants about, and then return all the Danios to what will seem, to them, a new habitat. This re-sets their hierarchy, and in many cases fixes bullying, especially if you can add a couple extra specimens of the same species at the same time.>
I could just treat the whole tank but I would have to find and remove my Nerites first; also I wasn't certain how my Corydoras would react to the meds.
<Antibiotics such as Kanamycin (what is in Kanaplex) should have no negative impacts on non-bacteria, so should be fine with snails and catfish. If you wanted to take your Nerites out though, you could probably keep them a few days in a large food container (such as a plastic ice cream container) holding a couple of litres of water. Kept somewhere warm, the snails should be fine for a few days, provided you did periodic water changes.>
Also, SeaChem stated somewhere in a forum that there may be some plant die back.
<Can't think why.>
I'm more concerned about my fish. The plants are just there to make them happy.
<Indeed. And again, just take a few cuttings, put them to one side, and return to the main tank if the existing plants look unhappy.>
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Injured Danio     3/18/18

Thanks Neale!
<You're welcome.>
Planning on getting more Danios as I have just the 6.
<Ah, understood.>
My little guy is improving on the Kanaplex. He is one of two small males.
My females are massive.
<I would guess the other male is dominant, and pushing this other male about.>
He is now swimming normally and exploring tank, red spot is fading after just one dose and poor pectoral fin is now functioning somewhat more normally. Still not eating and spitting out food but at least showing interest this morning.
<A good sign.>
Thanks for the advice on rearranging the tank and reintroducing them all at once back into tank. Great idea. My girls even bully my large Columbian tetras.
<Cheers, Neale.>

Worm Identification Help      3/17/18
I've never had an aquarium worm before but after introducing new aquarium plants and 5 Habrosus Cories, I've discovered this little guy wiggling in my tank about 12 hours later.
10 gallon freshwater aquarium
Heated to about 78 degrees F
Filtered with homemade filter (bio/mechanical + a PhosGuard bag, no carbon component)
Planted/has Fluval brand root tabs in substrate
The tank is a recent upgrade from my 3 gallon with new bagged substrate, some established plants, and my resident female Betta splendens (she's been with me over six months). I added some Jungle Val, Anacharis, and Sword to the tank yesterday, along with about 5 more pounds of substrate - all locally sourced from little fish stores, and 5 Habrosus Corydoras.
Fortunately, my female Betta is in a hanging breeder box to acclimate to her new tankmates before reintroduction. I selected this LFS because I had been told that they pre-quarantine their livestock, so I'm hoping this squirming ride-along isn't dangerous to my tank. If it is something to be concerned about, what steps should I take for removal/treatment??
<Appears to be an annelid, Oligochaete... Relation to earthworms. Not parasitic; not dangerous for you or your fishes... I'd just siphon or net out and remove. This worm was very likely a hitchhiker on a plant>
Thank you so much!
Concerned Fish Mom,
<Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Epsom Salt Bath for Constipation    3/11/18
How frequently can I give a constipated fish an Epsom salt bath?
<You don't re-dose. You add the required amount to the tank to start with, and with each water change, the amount needed for however many buckets of water. When the fish are better, you simply do water changes without Epsom
salt. The Epsom salt itself won't harm the fish, and can be used for many weeks, even months, except perhaps if you're treating species particularly sensitive to high general hardness. Make sense? Neale.>
Re: Epsom Salt Bath for Constipation     3/12/18

Makes sense - thank you!
<Glad to hear it. Cheers, Neale.>

Freshwater algae ID please    3/11/18
Dear Crew,
<Hey Janet>
I'm usually able to figure things out, but this one has me stumped.
I have a 7.5 gallon freshwater tank with crystal red shrimp. The shrimp breed regularly. The tank has been running for about a year. Nothing has really changed since that time. It has an Eheim 2213 canister filter, Archaea slim pro led light (on 8 hours/day) Amazonia aquasoil, all live plants/mosses, dragon stone and driftwood. 30% water change every week, no additives. The algae is attached to plants only and is found at all levels of the tank.
I cannot figure out what type of algae this is. It started appearing about 3 months ago. When I trim the plants (monthly) I can get about 75% of the algae out, but it is a tedious process and it always returns. The algae is soft, fuzzy and bristle like. Attached are some pictures.
<Soft, Mmmm...>
Could you ID this please?
<Looks to be a species of the genus Cladophora to me>
How might you suggest I change conditions in my tank to eliminate it?
<Softer, more acidic water conditions with less available nutrient>
Will Otos eat it?
<Not usually. This stuff can be tough... try pulling on it>
Is this actually algae or something else?
<It is a Thallophyte as far as I can tell by your pix. Do you have the capacity (an inexpensive USB hooked up microscope of a few hundred power) to send along more resolved images?>
I humbly thank you!
<Glad to share. Bob Fenner>

Re: Freshwater algae ID please     3/12/18
Bob, thank you for your quick reply - and on a Sunday! I do have a very good microscope. Could you suggest an attachment for taking pictures (via computer) using a regular microscope?
<Mmm; not really; am unfamiliar nowayears with makes, models and technology. Have an old timey light transmission and Intel-Play myself.
Perhaps the bb's for such?>
I have not looked in to this before and it would be a good purchase.
Thank you very much for the ID. I will investigate and work on getting some better images for you.
<Thank you Janet. Am always glad to use ref.s, think back on my college phycology classes, experiences.
Bob Fenner>

Re: Lethargic angelfish mostly hovering near surface, nose up      3/9/18
Yes, the rainbows have been doing fine for the last 2 months that I've had them. They're still young and growing into their colors (ranging between 2"-3" long), though the older 2 Trifasciata males are mature enough that they're starting to display and jostle for the females. All are feeding ravenously and boisterous.
<Then I would leave them be, and leave water chemistry alone.>
The LFS I got them from (The Wet Spot, if you're familiar with them) keeps a few large display tanks of rainbows in our normal tap water (which is typically very soft and acidic) with minimal tinkering. I can add crushed coral to the filter to buffer it and raise the PH if needed, but then the angel and rams would probably be uncomfortable, right?
<Marginally, assuming carbonate hardness isn't wildly high. Angels and Bolivian Rams would be absolutely fine in water around 10 degrees dH, pH 7.5. But if the Rainbows are fine, then softer water is optimal for these cichlids.>
Plus I think it'd be harder to keep it stable?
<Shouldn't have this effect, no.>
The Red Tail Shark was full grown (grew up in the 75g from juvenile size), but the angels grew up with it. Sadly the quarter size is the largest I usually can find angels at my nearest store, and they're typically from local breeders rather than being shipped in. I usually only can find the larger ones at my downtown LFS (mentioned above). Up until the fight neither fish had never shown any interest in each other.
The Red Tail was basically the grumpy old hermit of the tank and just guarded the large tree stump ornament that she lived under. As long as all the other fish left her stump alone, she was a model citizen. Her aggression was usually limited to shooing all those "darn kids" off her "lawn".
<A very accurate description of their behaviour, unless of course there's another shark-like fish in the tank, in which case things get a bit more serious.>
I'm not sure what sparked the two to go after each other that day, but neither one came out of it well. Awesome fish, but not trying to keep one in a community again.
Your explanation about "swim bladder disease" makes a whole lot more sense than what I've heard on every fish forum. When I asked around there everyone just told me that there was nothing that could be done... And yes, the lack of energy for chasing the others around was referring to the Angel, the Gourami is active and foraging around with the Rainbows. Up until the lethargy/nose up swimming, the Angel has been the queen of the tank; the other fish know it and do their own thing while staying out of the way. None of the stores (2 LFS, plus various Petco/Petsmarts) near me carry Kanaplex, so I've put in a next day shipping order for it on Amazon.
I'll cross my fingers that helps turn things around! Thank you!
<Good move and good luck!>
<Cheers, Neale.>

Weird, water change       3/8/18
This is a funny question, just curious. I have a 30 gallon tank with wild caught and bred South American Endler's. I was trying to reduce green algae on the Anubias and I began changing water more frequently, as in the last
2 weeks in a row, a big jug worth plus a 2 gallon smaller bottle. I guess that's 7 gallons but I don't remember for certain what the large jug holds.
There's more males than females and they had been pestering the females a lot, and now the fish are a lot more peaceful, grazing and relaxing. Is this some how related to the water changes?!
<Quite possibly. But how and why I cannot say.>
I am going to go buy some water sprite next weekend. I had it in the past and maybe if I buy more it will also help with algae.
<Oh, it should do. Quite nicely.>
And I'm being more careful going lighter on the feeding too. But it is weird that the water change changed the males mood and made them more mellow. Its not that I don't want them to breed but its been bothering me
they were such pests, and I'd even debated separating the sexes. But now they're peaceful its all good.
<Cutting back the food may be the real key here. If you give livebearers less food, they're forced back on grazing algae, which means they have less time to mate. There's scientific evidence from Ameca splendens that shows
how their behaviour has changed (micro-evolved, really) in captivity. This species is virtually extinct in the wild, but is known to have spent most of its time feeding, and only a little time breeding. They have to feed constantly because their food, algae, is low in protein and energy. Captive fish get much better food, and in short, concentrated bursts, so actually don't need to spend a lot of time foraging. So over time, males that fed
less but mated more passed on their genes more often. Over the decades Ameca splendens has become more aggressive, more reproductively energetic, if you will, but less good at feeding on algae. This is a problem for those
scientists who want to reintroduce this fish into the wild. These sexy, randy males might end up starving to death!>
<Most welcome, Neale.>
Re: Weird, water change    3/11/18

Thanks Neale.
<Most welcome, Neale.>

Copper poisoned BGK     3/5/18
I made a massive rookie mistake, and used snail rid (copper based) in my community tank which includes my BGK. I did the initial treatment and followed up 3days later. 2 days after I noticed my ghost knife looking sick, I did a frantic online search and that’s when I discovered that copper is toxic to them. I immediately did a water change and picked out any remaining snail shells, added two aerators. I’m relatively new to all this so not sure what else I need to do. BGK is swimming vertically in the corner where the filter is, doesn’t take food. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
<I would run activated carbon in your filter system... to remove residual copper and improve water quality, and add Methylene Blue to the extent that the water is quite blue in color... no dosage other than this recommendation. This will act as a mild bacteriostatic as well as improve dissolved oxygen and cut down light penetration. >
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: Copper poisoned BGK     3/5/18

Hi Bob,
Thank you so much for your reply and advice! Will let you know how I go.
<Ah, good. Thank you. BobF>

Tiger Oscar losing scales on top of head     3/5/18
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
Good Morning !! But not a good morning for my Tiger Oscar !! I purchased a 2 inch long Tiger Oscar 2 months ago from a local pet store. I have a 75 gallon aquarium. I’m not new at this. BUT this is my first Oscar. Water conditions are always perfect and I check them weekly with test strips.
<Need values; not subjective evaluations... the water is moderately hard, alkaline? Little metabolite accumulation?>

I run 2 filters. Both are from Marineland. The big one is a model 350 that is for a 75 gallon tank. The small one has a size “ A “ filter. And I run an air stone . Water is very clear. He eats VERY well . He would actually jump out of the water and bump the edge of the plankton bottle to knock the food out. As he grew , VERY RAPIDLY , I started feeding him “ BIG BOY FOOD “ , as I call it , namely Tetra Brand Jumbo Min , Large Floating sticks . He LOVES them. Very active and healthy this whole time. Until this morning. When I woke up and turned the aquarium lights on the first thing I noticed was that there was a small patch of scales missing on the top of his head . About half the size of a dime. He’s still eating good and very energetic but I’m worried about the scales missing . There is NOTHING in the tank such as rocks, gravel or even artificial plants. It’s easier to keep the tank clean that way. It’s NOT a hole . Any ideas on what caused this and are there any meds , like Tetracycline , that I should add to the water so he doesn’t get an infection ?? Also , the only other fish in the tank are 2 very small Corydoras and 2 algae eaters. Thanks in advance , R.D. Grey .
<I fully suspect that this Oscar is damaging, has damaged itself by dashing against the side of the system. I would add decor here, the gravel, plants you list as missing, and not medicate the water. The scales will grow back in time. Bob Fenner>

Discus Food     3/5/18
Hi Team,
I have a Discus along with some Angels.
<Do see/read on WWM re both's compatibility; not good to mix these two cichlids>

I feed my fish with Tetra Bits (sinking pellets).
<Discus/Symphysodon don't generally eat pellets with any gusto. READ:

My Angels like the sinking pellets and eat them as soon as it is dropped into the tank. My discus is comparatively smaller in size and doesn't seem to eat or like the pellets. The lfs from whom I got, told me that he used to feed live worms to the discus and asked me to continue feeding the same till the Discus grew in size.
<Pretty standard; yes>
I am unable to find time to feed the Discus with live worms every alternate day. I usually feed my fish live worms on weekends.
Please advise what should I be doing to make the discus eat the pellets.
<Reading. Bob Fenner>
Thanks and regards,
Shriram Natarajan


Freshwater Aquarium  Articles & FAQs

  • Set-Up: Gear/Components:, Set-Up, Tanks, Stands, Covers:, Water, Filtration of All Sorts, Sumps, Refugiums:, Circulation, Pumps, Powerheads, Aeration, Electricity, Heating/Chilling,  Light/Lighting:; Types of Systems:, Substrates, Aquascaping:
  • Livestock 1: Stocking/Selection, Biotopes, Quarantine, Acclimation. Fishes: Stingrays, Inadvanced Bony Fishes, Eels, Tetras & Their Relatives, Killifishes, Livebearers, Catfishes, Goldfish, Barbs, Danios, Rasboras, Minnow Sharks, Loaches, Misc. Fish Groups

    New Print and eBook on Amazon

    Goldfish Success
    What it takes to keep goldfish healthy long-term

    by Robert (Bob) Fenner

    Livestock 2: Gouramis, Bettas, Cichlids, Fresh to Brackish Water Fishes, Invertebrates (Hydra, Worms, Snails, Insects, Crustaceans...),

    New Print and eBook on Amazon

    Betta Success
    Doing what it takes to keep Bettas healthy long-term

    by Robert (Bob) Fenner

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