FAQs on Bulb, Bubble Tip/Rose
Anemone Health 11
Tip, Rose Anemones, Entacmaea quadricolor, Use in Marine
Systems by Bob Fenner, Bubble Tip
Anemones by Jim Black, Recent
Experiences with BTA's by Marc Quattromani,
Cnidarians, Colored/Dyed Anemones,
Related FAQs: BTA
Disease 1, BTA Disease 2,
BTA Disease 3, BTA Disease 4, BTA
Health 5, BTA Health 6, BTA Health 7, BTA Health
8, BTA Health 9,
BTA Health 12, BTA
FAQs on BTA Disease by Category:
Environmental (Pollution/Poisoning, Lighting...),
Nutritional, Social (e.g. Allelopathy),
Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral)
& E. quad. FAQ
1, E. quad FAQ 2, E. quad. FAQ 3, E.
quad FAQ 4, E. quad FAQ 5,
BTA ID, BTA Compatibility, BTA Selection, BTA
Behavior, BTA Systems, BTA Feeding, BTA
New Print and
eBook on Amazon:
Doing what it takes to keep Anemones healthy long-term
by Robert (Bob) Fenner
BTA Concern/BTA Health
Bought my first BTA last Friday, It appeared "bleached
out" but otherwise healthy. It was firmly attached to the
rock in a hole and after arguing with the LFS employee I
convinced them to let me buy the rock rather than tearing the
foot. My tanks parameters are; Salinity 1.024, PH 8.0,
around 325, Nitrites and 'rates are bottom of the scale.
While I am going to build my own canopy with MH lights, I am
using Twin compacts at 12K and Twin compacts at 6700 for a total
of 260 watts, as well as twin T5's that are 50/50
actinic/6700's for a total of 130 watts. My tank is an 80
Within a days time the BTA had already darkened and really filled
out. I fed it some very tiny pieces of raw shrimp which it ate
very quickly. I fed it again, same way 24 hours later. Last night
it withered up, thought it was dying but finally decided it was
voiding. This morning it looked great again, but when my lights
came on, (which are set on a 15 hour cycle) it withered up again
and looks like its voiding again, tiny clear film with a touch of
"brown" in it coming from its mouth. I have taken the
two best pics I have of it one with it looking okay, the other,
not so okay. Any input on what's happening would really be
<Mmm, the gaping mouth isn't a good sign, but continue to
observe. May just be expelling waste as you state. Time will tell
and while you are waiting read here and related articles/FAQs
found in the header.
Thanks for everyone's efforts on this site, it is really
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
BTA splitting or dying? 9/12/10
For the past day or so, my BTA has been moving around on his rock. He
began stretching a little yesterday, but I didn't think anything of
it. I thought he was just moving. I recently added 2 clowns to the tank
immediately hosted him ( about 6 days ago). I keep going back and forth
on whether he is splitting or dying. I have researched many other
videos/pictures of BTAs propagating, and all the tentacles have been
Mine aren't (see attached picture). This is leading me to believe
that the anemone is just committing suicide and is just dying.
<Too likely so>
Can an anemone split without having its tentacles inflated?
125 gal tank with 25 gal sump/fuge, skimmer, t5 lights (2 actinic, 2
daylight). NH4,0 NO3,<0
<This life needs some soluble nitrate, phosphate...>
NO2,0 pH 8.2-8.4 Salinity 1.026 and Mg 1380.
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/btareprofaqs.htm
and the linked files above, particularly the FAQs files on BTA
Feeding... Bob Fenner>
Bubbletip Anemone, Housing, Death 9/1/10
I have had a 46 gallon saltwater setup for 3 years. It has 50+ pounds
of live rock, 4-5 inches of live sand, a BakPak skimmer, hang on back
filter and T5 lighting. It is currently occupied by the following:
Pair of Tomato Clowns
<Needs a much larger tank.>
Today, I lost a BTA that I had for 2 years.
<This also needs a larger tank, better lighting, and probably was
battling the polyps chemically.>
It occupied the same rock during it's entire stay in the tank and
was beautiful. It was on a gradual decline recently, with a loss of
color and refusal to eat (silversides or raw shrimp).
<Water quality, lighting, and tankmates most likely causes
This is a loss for both me and the clowns.
I have had very few issues with the tank, performing regular water
changes and checking the water chemistry regularly. My question is
two-fold: do BTA's die from "old age" and what are the
chances that the clowns will accept a new BTA?
<Anemones do not die from "old age", in fact they
don't really age in a conventional sense, something killed this
animal, most likely environmental conditions.>
Thanks for your help,
<I would not restock this animal here, the tank is too small to
house once fully grown, reaching at least 12" in diameter fully
grown. See here for more http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inver
The Unfortunate Battle Of Anemone Versus Filter Intake
:-(/Anemone Reproduction/Health 7/25/10
I have some not so good news here, but a double part kind of question.
I have had a Rose Bubble Tip for about 2 months now in my 60 gal tank.
PH 8.2, SG 1.025, Ammonia, Nitrates, and Nitrites all 0.
Along with 200 watts of T5 lighting. Was doing fantastic! Even had it
split into two very happy bubbly guys. About a week ago, I had added a
Yellow headed <Head> Sleeper Goby that went to town rearranging
all of my
sand to create his tunnels. Having returned after a week being gone, I
cannot find our little clone. Is it possible that he got buried in the
My boyfriend who was taking care of the tank while I was gone said he
had seen him a day and a half ago. If he is buried, is there any chance
Would he find his own way out?
If he can't and has/will die, what do I do to avoid him
contaminating the water?
<I would make an effort to find him, and if dead, remove to prevent
Second part: The other half of the cloned pair decided to hang out by
the intake of my Marineland C360 filter. It has a cover over it with
lots of little slits in it so I didn't think it would be too
detrimental, however... I just moved the tube away and about half of
the anemone has been sucked up and of course looks awful. It almost
looks as it has been cut in half right down the center. I know you can
cut an anemone in half,
<Whoa here for the benefit of others. I have also read that it is
possible to cut an anemone in half to propagate it artificially, and
that only anemones that naturally divide will predictably survive this
In my opinion/experience, the percentage of success is minimal and one
is likely to end up with two pieces of
dead anemone. My advice here....let the anemone divide
so I am wondering if it is possible that he will make a recovery, or if
I need to pull him off of the live rock so he doesn't contaminate
<Anemones experiencing this trauma rarely recover.>
If I need to take him out, what's the best way to not affect the
<The best way is to remove the rock the anemone is attached to and
remove it with a stiff brush.>
The water isn't cloudy, the skimmer is skimming efficiently, and I
cleaned out the intake cover so there are no more pieces stuck in
there. All of this makes me never want to leave for an extended period
of time again!
<Yes, it sure seems that problems always arise when one is gone for
a period of time.>
(I also lost my fire fish who apparently decided a day ago to jump out
of the "covered" aquarium and found him on the floor
<And I'm still wondering how my Flasher Wrasse jumped out
through a 1/8" slit in my "covered tank".>
Thank you very
much for your help!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Re The Unfortunate Battle Of Anemone Versus Filter Intake :-(/Anemone
Reproduction/Health 7/25/10 - 7/27/10
Thank you very much for the quick response!
Just thought I'd give an update...
I still haven't been able to find the anemone that wants to play
hide and seek. Apparently, he's much better at it than I am :-( I
even rearranged all of my live rock last night and sifted threw my
gravel and no luck. So I am slightly worried there.
<May want to consider using a Poly Filter or Chemi Pure to curb
As to the RBTA that got into it with my intake, he is making a
beautiful recovery! Yay! He has closed his foot around the gaping hole,
his tentacles are all bubbled up, and he has even taken a piece of
<Very good news, most do not make it.>
Again, thank you for the help! If you have any more suggestions about
the missing anemone, that would be very helpful. Take care!
<As above. James (Salty Dog)>
Rose Anemone, hlth. 7/22/10
I am new at salt water aquariums. I inherited a 2 year old tank that I
was told by someone with experience that it was in great shape. I have
been doing 20 to 25% water changes every 10 days, using RO water that I
purchased. Yesterday the local pet store (good reputation and I do
trust them) told me I didn't need to use RO water, but use tap
water. They have a beautiful reef aquarium and lots of tanks of salt
water. All are using tap water, no RO. I told them that my water was
"treated" and she said that didn't matter. I was told
just to add the Prime water conditioner, which I did. The previous owner only used tap water as well. I removed
about 25% of water and at that time the large anemone was very open and
large. After adding the new water I was shocked that the anemone
and shriveled and started turning black. The tentacles are rose, but
the stalk and area where tentacles grow from has gotten blacker and
blacker as the hours go by.
The fish are fine, shrimp, feather duster, everything is acting normal
except the anemone. I am just horrified that I did something to
apparently poison this most beautiful creature and I need to figure out
what I did so it never happens again, or if there is anything I should
be doing to try and save it.
<At this point... not much to do... I'd wait here... IF you had
another established system I would likely have moved this animal to it
in an effort to save its life... Evidently "something"
directly or indirectly to do with the water conditioner or water is
amiss here. I would just aerate the new water for a day or so ahead of
use and leave off with any chemical treatment.>
I have tried searching on rose anemone turning black on Bing and
Google, with no luck at all. I have tested my water for
ph, nitrite, nitrate, ammonia, calcium, phosphate, salinity and all are
in normal range.
<There are many "other" chemical and physical factors that
we/hobbyists/humans don't have test/gear for that could be at play
Temp is fine. I am really at a loss.
Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated.
<If you have/had a pad of PolyFilter I would add this to your
filter/water flow path... this would likely help.
Damaged BTA.. Is he healing or is he a goner?
My name is Laura. My boyfriend and I have had our marine tank for
about 5 months.
I have done alot
<No such word>
of reading. Your site was really informative, but I'm having
trouble finding information about what to do for my anemone. I
have posted on forums.. but I feel as though I'm getting
annoying since he doesn't appear to be getting any better.
Here is some background:
55 gallon tank
Eshopps PSK-75H Hang on Tank Skimmer
(4) 48" T5 lighting
Regular power filter with carbon and filter fiber (2)
<With anemone stuck against>
about 65 lbs of live rock and 50 lbs of sand
2 Ocellaris clowns; 2 green Chromis; 1 tiny watchman goby, 1
1 blue hippo tang (currently 1" in length), and a purple
fish (I always forget the name.. size of a royal gamma.. but all
Turbo Snails, those small snails that are always on the glass
(name.. again), and hermit crabs
Ricordea, Frogspawn, Mushroom, and 2 more I forget the name
(sorry!) You can
see them in the attached pictures.
My tank parameters:
Okay, my anemone..
When we first got him, he footed and moved the night we got him,
and then stayed there for about 10 days. We fed him krill and he
took and finished all of it. I think he was a little bleached
when we got him, but with lighting and food he was looking really
healthy and gaining color (brown and green).
2 weeks ago he was sucked up into our strainer for our filter. I
did a water change, and he gradually got himself out. He refooted
and didn't really suffer any damage except for a loss of
maybe 3 tentacles fortunately.
About 4 days ago, I woke up to him chopped up in my powerhead
I turned it off immediately, my water wasn't too cloudy. I
set the powerhead on the substrate by rocks so that he could get
himself out. He got himself out and footed on a rock. He was is
really bad shape. I covered my powerheads with filter floss ( my
strainer and skimmer intake were already covered).
The next morning he was stuck to the powerhead, but there was no
more damage since there was the filter fiber. ( I did my water
change, about 12 gallons, today because I couldn't run to get
some water the day before). Turned off powerhead, he gradually
let himself go.. and then floated around the tank.
He was just getting swept away by the powerheads. So I turned
them off. He was bobbing around with the small flow in my tank,
so I "trapped" him with a fish breeders box (all I had
handy that would permit some water movement for him) between the
glass, sand and a rock so that he wouldn't damage himself and
hopefully foot. He ended up footing for about 3 hours and then
let loose again.
Today he still looks terrible. He only footed during the day
today, but then around 7pm he just let himself fold off it. He is
not folded onto himself on the sand. His foot is inflated and his
mouth has been open all day. His tentacles are inflating, but
there is white "flesh" still partially coming off him.
I don't know if this means he's dying, dead, healing. So
I have been watching him all day to make sure he won't get
sucked back towards the powerhead. I turn the powerheads off at
night while I cant watch him.
What do I do?
<I'd remove this animal... Very unlikely it will recover,
but if you have another established system to risk it dying,
He just wont foot anywhere and stay. I have crevices all over my
rockwork for his foot, but he just doesn't seem to like
I would put him in a small tank that I'm about to set up for
a sump, but I don't have any filtration or lighting for
I woke up this morning and found him completely deflated and
looking absolutely terrible. He still reacted to the lights being
Do you have any suggestions on what I can do to help him?
I have done water changes, let himself get himself free, lowered
1 powerhead on during day) so that he might re attached, covered
ALL intakes and powerheads. I haven't tried to feed him since
he was injured because I read that it can further stress them
out. His mouth is still open a bit. I will close for about an
hour a day, and then re open.
Picture 1---photo of damage while hanging on powerhead
Picture2-- what he looked like yesterday morning (5/23)
Picture 3--what he looked like last night after I turned off
lights.. he just let himself unattached and folded on
Picture4-- today (5/24)
Picture 5- our tank
<This Actinarian is done. Bob Fenner>
Sorry for the 2nd email. 5/24/10
I wanted to also ask, should I take him to my LFS and see if they
should hold on to him? That is, if there is a chance that he can
<Mmm, worth asking, but as previously stated, and on WWM in
many places... such incidents (getting sucked into pump intakes,
powerheads, overflows... are generally fatal. BobF>
Re: Sorry for the 2nd email.
I don't know if you were able to look at the pictures or not,
but does it look as though he might survive?
I hate to "flush" him if he might have a chance.
Thank you for the quick response, Bob F.
<I really wish I could present a more "up beat"
diagnosis, but there is exceedingly little chance of recovery
here. And, if not removed, the decomposition of this animal may
cause a good deal of further trouble. B>
Re: Sorry for the 2nd email.
Thanks Bob. Anything I should look for today to show he might
make it? If not... he will meet the toilet tonight.
<Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/anemsysfaqs.htm
and the linked files... B>
Re: Damaged BTA.. Is he healing or is he a
Just wanted to give you an update. He seems to be recovering
<Ah, good news! B>
Something is wrong with my BTA 5/23/10
About a week ago one of my powerheads detached from its very reliable
suction cup........ This created a strong current right in the path of
my clown hosted BTA. I removed the clown fish and placed him in the
since its small and vulnerable and my BTA retracted inside the rock.
It's been over a week now and it has yet to come out of its hole
and I am concerned that it may be sick or perhaps injured due to the
My water parameters are normal but I am worried because it wont come
out anymore. Any clue as to what may have happened?
<Likely as you state>
Perhaps it ingested a large amount of sand?
<Or was badly abraded>
Is there anything I can do to lure it out of its crevice?
<Feeding, good care in general...>
Before that I also noticed that it was not longer as sticky as it used
to be. I figured it was probably due to the newly introduced clownfish
and how it was always rubbing up against it. Any ideas?
<Yes... general reading re the species:
and the linked files above and patience. Bob Fenner>
BTA Bubble Tip Anemone/BTA Health 4/16/10
<Hello whomever you are.>
Here is a picture of my BTA anemone. I know they say that they
rarely get bubbles, mine definitely doesn't. Anyways judging
by this picture would you say that it is healthy.
<Appears healthy to me. The lack of "bulbs" does not
necessarily indicate the anemones overall health.>
Also what type of BTA is this it has a orange and greenish hue to
<Mmm, best to read/learn more here.
Also is it normal for it to be huge and wide open like it is?
Coral, my clownfish sure does love the anemone.
<I hope Coral continues to enjoy the relationship. James
Re: Foggy water (RMF, can you help with the marine part of
Entacmaea hlth., env... and sand stirrers/stirring 4/1/10
Thank you very much for the quick response. That's what I planned
on doing tonight when I get off work.
Also would adding activated carbon do anything worth putting it in
there now for the cycling process.
<No help at all. Carbon removes dissolved organic acids such as
Since organic acids aren't the problem here, carbon won't fix
Also on a different note. The 75 salt tank that I mentioned. I have a
Entacmaea quadricolor anemone for two maroon clowns the anemone has
been in the tank
now for about 8 months going on a year I can't quite remember when
I got him. Now he is staying all deflated and small.
<<Not good behavior>>
He was about 6 inches in diameter and full and the maroons loved to
take it pieces of Mysids, brine, clams, and other meaty bits not the
flakes and the pellets that they get every other day. Also I have quite
a bit of detritus on the substrate and short of siphoning all of the
time cannot figure a good way to keep it under control. Other
inhabitants are 4 burrowing snails not sure what kind 2-Narcisus??
2-Olive?? a purple Pseudochromis 3-blue green Chromis, and a small 3
inch Niger Trigger he so wants to be a real fish one day.
<<May consume much of your other livestock>>
I run a protein skimmer, Wet dry filter,
<<See WWM re removing the plastic media here:
Sump/refugium, Filter wool,
activated carbon, also lava rock
<<Mmm, some of this is unsuitable for aquarium use>>
for bio media. The Maroons are small also like 3 inches and a male
about one and half inches. I know that the Niger could be a little big
when full grown but am planning to upgrade soon. The question goes to
What fish would you recommend to stir the sand bed as it is about 3
inches deep and dirty. Thanks in advance
<Outside of my field of expertise, so I'm asking Bob. I will
make the general observation that *adding* livestock rarely, if ever,
makes an aquarium cleaner. Looking for animals that'll minimise the
maintenance or better filtration is usually a hiding to
<<This is indeed my position. I would count on YOU to stir the
bottom occasionally... Please use the search tool, linked on all
pages... on the left to read re input here... or read: http://wetwebmedia.com/substclng.htm
and the linked files above. RMF>>
RBTA Question, env. "dis."
I have had my RBTA for about a month, he has been very happy and
looking great. He lives in a 29G biocube
<Is really too small a volume for a healthy
and is about 4" across when open.
<Get to about a foot across when happy...>
My water was last tested about 3 days ago and all was as it has
been just like every weekly water test, right where it should be,
but my calcium is a little low this time 325 but my Mag. still
tests ok, so who knows what that's about.
<... I do>
Anyway, I was sitting watching my tank with my morning cup of
coffee as I do very Saturday, and my RBTA started shrinking up,
which I was ok with, I fed him a silverside last night.
<Not a complete, steady diet>
This time though, nothing came out except white stringy looking
stuff that I have not seen before. See attached pictures. He has
been sitting like this for over an hour now.
Any ideas? Am I just freaking over nothing?
<Looks like a "hull breach"... this animal and
system is in trouble; read here:
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
| Dyed and dying. B
Bubble Tipped Anemone/Systems/Health 2/12/10
I recently acquired a Bubble Tip Anemone, and I'm worried that in
his quest for a home, he's going to sting my corals.
<No need to worry, it likely will. Not a good idea mixing the two
and mixing anemones with non-immune fish.>
Admittedly, if I'd thought this
through, I'd have bought the anemone first, let it settle, and then
added the corals. Unfortunately, I don't really have that option. I
thought I'd poked him in a well-lit hole so he'd nestle in,
<Not true, even a change in water flow can cause the anemone to
I've heard of a couple different ways to make them stay in one
place. The first was to simply keep moving it back, but that seems like
it will just aggravate it. I've heard of poking it into a piece of
pvc pipe, but I don't know why that would be any more effective
than poking him anywhere else.
Are there things I can do to encourage him to stay in one place?
<No, they will move until they have found a spot to their liking,
and yes, you will aggravate it.>
If not, I still need a way to protect my corals. Most are small frags,
and movable, but I can't babysit the tank all day (law student.) I
also have a large frogspawn coral, which hasn't branched at all but
spans nearly 9 inches. I'm worried the anemone will cause problems,
and I'm looking to mitigate them. Any advice you can give, on
either ways to help the anemone situate, or simply protect the corals,
would be really helpful.
<If you enjoy your corals, I strongly suggest taking the anemone
back to your LFS.
You mention nothing in the way of equipment used. Lighting, tank size,
and water quality are all important factors in keeping anemones. If
conditions are not to their liking, they will soon die and poison the
entire tank. Do read here and related articles/FAQ's.
Thanks in advance!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Bubble Tipped Anemone/Health 1/22/10
I have just spent quite a bit of time searching your site, and lots of
great information, but I am not seeing a situation similar to mine.
<Mmm, have you looked at BTA/Health FAQ's.>
I will try to be brief, as I know you are so busy. I have had a Rose
Bubble Tip Anemone and Maroon Clown for a little over three years
The anemone has split numerous times ( I always take the second one
out) and (this tank is in my office) everyone loves to watch the two
<Wondering what size tank this is.>
Lately, over a period of a week to ten days, the anemone began to look
sort of miserable--the base fine, but the tentacles quite shrunken and
the area around them sort of weird and flat--sort of like a brush.
Color remains normal. I checked all parameters and everything fine and
there is nothing in the tank that could be picking on it (not that the
clown would allow that) and It will not ingest food.
<Also am wondering what your lighting consists of.>
I decided to do a water change yesterday. The nitrates were up to 5-10
ppm when I checked a couple of days ago. After the change, I have taken
a number of readings and my nitrates are through the roof all of the
sudden (I use reverse RO water from my systems at home and that water
used for the change tested perfect ). They are around 80ppm.
Fish are still fine, but of course I am concerned. I thought that dying
anemones caused a spike in ammonia levels, but I do not have a trace.
If the anemone is dying, could it cause a spike in nitrates?
<Yes it could, a dying anemone has a very nasty smell, akin to
rotten eggs (hydrogen sulphide).
Try bringing the anemone to the surface and give a whiff. You will
immediately know if it is dying or dead.>
I have no other explanation. I will pull the anemone out and do another
(big) water change but wanted to see if you could provide any
<Likely environmental conditions, tank size, lighting, infrequent
water changes, etc. If your sand/gravel bed isn't frequently
cleaned by way of siphoning during water changes, it will become a
nutrient sink thereby raising nitrate levels well above the norm and
can/will release hydrogen sulphide gas into the water. Keep in mind
that anemones are not easily kept long term and it appears you have
done quite well in this regard with continued success exceeding three
Thanks you so much for your help and your site.
<You're welcome, and glad you enjoy/use the site. James (Salty
Bubble Tipped Anemone/Health 1/22/10
Forgot to mention that the attached photo is that of a small
bear/animal. James (Salty Dog)><<Heeeeee! RMF>>
Bubble Tipped Anemone/Health 1/23/10
Thanks so much for the super quick response.
<You're welcome, Jeanne.>
The anemone has no odor at all.
I keep anemones of various types in all my tanks and have for many
years. This tank is only 40 gallons but has metal halides and very
frequent (every 1 -2 weeks, about 20 %) water changes with
There is also a protein skimmer on the tank. That is the other weird
thing--I got almost no sediment or sign of anything but very clean
substrate when I cleaned it yesterday, and no problem with the other
corals (just easy stuff like mushrooms and xenia) so I really cannot
explain the huge spike. She (the clown) is so unhappy since I removed
the anemone but I will stick it in a hospital tank for now.
<Yes, observe, and you may want to read this anemone survey taken by
Joyce Wilkerson PE. It's a good read.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Re Bubble Tipped Anemone/Health 1/24/10
Thanks for all your help.
<You're welcome, Jeanne.>
Just an update--turns out the reactants in
my test kit were flawed--had both the LFS and another kit from home
test the water and it is about 5 ppm nitrates, so no rationale on the
anemone but everything fine in the Nano.
Now in hospital tank. Also-- that attachment is a CU logo (buffalo) not
a photo of sickly anemone.
<Geez, and here I thought your anemone turned into a monogrammed
Sorry! I work at the university. Take care!
<Have a nice day, Jeanne. James (Salty Dog)>
Rose Bubble Tip Anemone Dropping Tentacles/BTA Health
After fruitless searching online and stumping many a reef forum, I turn
to you folks for some insight on my RBTA problem. I added a 15cm or so
RBTA to our 54g reef a few months ago and while it has maintained
it's colour and appetite, it has the poor habit of dropping a
tentacle or two every now and again. A tentacle will pinch off at the
base and float around the tank inflated only to inevitably settle on a
coral leaving nasty burn marks on my other livestock. My decorator crab
enjoys picking them up but I don't think the other tank inhabitants
are pleased. The anemone itself quickly regrows the lost tentacle and I
can't say I am overly worried about it's overall health but
clearly something isn't right, right?
<Yes, you mention "our reef tank", and it's not a good
idea to mix anemones and corals especially in smaller systems where
allelopathy can cause problems/death.>
I am keeping it under 160w of T5 lighting (1 X 6,500k, 1 X Fiji Purple,
2 X Blue Plus) and with the exception of the occasional mild nitrate
spike (10 - 15) no other parameter gives me reason for suspicion.
<With the type of lamps you are using, I don't think that your
lighting is intense enough for long-term success with the anemone as
they are shallow water animals (along with most corals we keep) and do
better with more light intensity in the 6500-12K range. I would swap
out the Fiji Purple and one Blue Plus for two 10 or 12K lamps. The
other thought is that you may need to provide more food for the animal
as they do like to eat. Re the nitrate spikes...are you using a protein
skimmer in the system? If not, it is a vital component for successful
We keep many inverts, SPS/LPS corals, a clam, a GBTA, etc, and everyone
is doing well. For fish there is a Mystery Wrasse,
<Wow, a gorgeous and pricey fish and difficult to find.>
Tailspot Blenny, and two Firefish Gobies. So what do you think??
<As above. James (Salty Dog)>
Possible Scenario For BTA Bleaching?/BTA
Position of anemone in tank, bottom right, on the right of torch
BTA first day in the tank before bleaching
This anemone has moved to a position with minimal light and flow,
and has stayed there ever since I got it ( 2 months plus ). The
anemone hosts a pair of Maroon Clownfish, ( female 3.5 inches and
male 2 inches ) . It is housed in a 187 gallon tank with no
corals near it.
Lighting : 2x250( 20k )w metal halide
<Anemones do much better with Kelvin temperatures in the
Flow : around 24x turnover with Vortech mp40w, return pump, and
<Mmm, 4500gpm is an awful lot of water movement for this
system. I can see why the anemone positioned
itself in a minimal flow zone.>
<Looks good here, although the calcium is a bit high,
380-400ppm would be my goal.>
I do not test for phosphates but the last time I tested it was
close to zero.
The anemone is fed piecies <pieces> of shrimp / squid every
1 or 2 days.(cut into a shape of a silverside around an inch long
Is it plausible that when I first introduced the anemone to my
tank, it expelled it's Zooxanthellae due to stress and light
shock ( as it was under much weaker lighting at the LFS) , so it
hid under the rock to hide from the light.
<Is likely why it hid/moved, but unlikely that it expelled
But I continued feeding it every one or 2 days so it didn't
feel the need to allocate much Zooxanthellae inside anymore.
<These animals require Zooxanthellae for their survival. I
would only feed a couple times a week.>
Because if this is the case, I should probably cut down feeding
to once a week or so?
<Do read here and related articles/FAQ's linked in the
James (Salty Dog)>