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FAQs on Long Tentacle Anemone Disease/Health 2

Related Articles: LTAs, Anemones, Bubble Tip Anemones, Cnidarians, Coldwater Anemones, Colored/Dyed Anemones

FAQs on LTA Disease: LTA Health/Disease 1, LTA Hlth./Dis. 3, LTA Hlth./Dis. 4, LTA Hlth./Dis.
FAQs on Anemone Disease by Category: Diagnosing, Environmental (Pollution/Poisoning, Lighting...), Nutritional, Social (Allelopathy...), Trauma, Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral) Predatory/Pest, Treatments 
LTA Reproduction
Related FAQs: LTAs 1, LTAs 2, LTA Identification, LTA Behavior, LTA Compatibility, LTA Selection, LTA Systems, LTA Feeding, LTA Reproduction, Anemones 1, Anemones 2, Anemones 3, Anemones 4, Bubble Tip Anemones, Caribbean Anemones, Condylactis, Aiptasia Anemones, Other Pest Anemones, Anemones and Clownfishes, Anemone Reproduction, Anemone Lighting, Anemone Feeding, Anemone Systems, Anemone Identification, Anemone Compatibility, Anemone Selection, Anemone Behavior, Anemone Health, Anemone Placement

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Anemone Success
Doing what it takes to keep Anemones healthy long-term

by Robert (Bob) Fenner

LTA wound pic + bonus, decapod spawn release  6/27/09
Hi Bob,
Once the lights went out I was able to get a shot of the injury I mentioned in my previous email.
<Good pic>
While I was at it I saw this too. Holy Stomatopod banquet Batman! Is that an M. sculptus spawning?
<Appears so>
It was standing there like that for about 10 minutes, shakin' its booty. If so, can I expect lotsa little crabs?
<Mmm, highly doubtful... may not be fertile, and even is so, the young going through instars/developmental phases aren't likely to survive recirculation, the skimmer... and what to eat?>
By the way, the mantis lives in a small hole just below the crab's leftmost foot - it didn't seem interested. There was a note on the hole that read, "out for lunch."
<Me too>
PS - I've got a 6-pack of Tiger here for you the next time you're passing through Kuala Lumpur. Shoot me an email.
<Dang! I was supposed to be there till 6/21... another story, time>
PPS - I hope approx. 200K is not too big a pic for your inbox.
Apologies if so, I wanted to sent fairly resolved images.
<No worries Darryl. G'night mate. BobF>

Re: Substrate and blenders do not mix - New development-help, LTA... Long Tentacle Air-filled Anemone     2/21/09 Hi, <Hi Again Ram.> Thanks for the prompt reply. The water has cleared up a bit now. I've added the live rock back to the tank from the tub; but now I have a new problem. <Ok, lets see what we can do.> I had kept my purple long tentacle anemone in a separate tub because I didn't want it to sting my corals. <Good Idea> I added a separate air stone for that tub. Now, somehow, the anemone had attached itself around the air stone and it got filled with air and started floating at the surface. <Uh-Oh!.....> I took it out, put it in the main tank and held it under water and shook it gently and air bubbles started coming out of it. still it had some air inside which I was not able to get out. I left it for an hour and it attached itself to the glass but part of it is still swollen with air and it's sticking out of the water. Will it be able to expel the air by itself or is my lovely anemone doomed forever? <The can expel air with time, good conditions. You need to coax the anemone deeper into the water so that none of it is exposed to air, and then get it orientated so the air bubble can escape, which is normally through its mouth. That said, unfortunately, I am not optimistic about its survival> Thank You. <You're welcome, do let me know how it turns out.> <Mike>
<<Hey, I'm happy to let you guys now that the anemone seems perfectly healthy now. It has attached itself to a rock and it is fully open. I have added the fishes back to my main tank and the tank is looking beautiful as ever. Thanks a lot guys. I owe you big time for your support. >> <Hi Ram, Glad to hear that everything has worked out. Mike>

Anemone Decline (allelopathy) and leather coral question (sys.)   12/5/08 I purchased live rock from an aquarist who was moving and it included a long tentacled anemone and clarkii clown. The anemone has done fine for about a month, moving to his own spot and staying for most of the time. The clown often feeds him from formula two and pieces of chopped krill that I place in the tank. <Ah, good> Two days ago the anemone moved two feet across the aquarium under a rock and began getting smaller, different than the usual fluctuations. He has now moved further under the rock and totally withdrawn and emitted a pile of mucous. <Needs to be moved... now> He hasn't distend anything from his mouth but doesn't open to feed or move into the light for the algae to produce food. I've read the FAQs and other answer, but can't seem to find out what the problem is. <A "lack of agreement" with some other form of Cnidarian life here... in a word, Allelopathy. Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm and possibly elsewhere on WWM re Anemones, Macrodactyla in particular if you don't understand enough what is happening here, the need for action.> I don't want to give up on him prematurely but don't want to risk harm to the other inhabitants. Any thing I can do to help him out or sure way to tell when he's dead (assuming the hermit crabs won't start eating him as a sign). <You don't want to wait this/that long> My second questions is regarding a small leather coral 1 1/2" long that was on the live rock. It was partially covered by algae film. I removed the film and placed in in my Nano tank. It was knocked off the top of the reef by a fish or crab and fell to the rear. I left it there since I wanted to minimize stress of repeated touching and movement. Now it has grown a 1" long stalk and attached to the rock, and all feelers extend. My q is there anyway to relocate it (it is towards the back and difficult to see) or is it better to leave it alone? Thanks, Sid <If in a "very bad spot" I would move it... it cannot move itself. Bob Fenner>

Anemone non-dilemma... sys./Macrodactyla reading    7/24/08 Sherlo Hi WWM Crew <And to you> I am writing you from South Africa and have a very new setup. We started off with Tropical many years ago and have now moved on to Salt Water. We have a 200gal Reef Tank setup with about 100Kg Kenya Live Rock and have recently introduced Livestock, namely 2 x Yellow Tangs (wish I'd known about the bullying!), 3 x common Clowns, 1 x baby Blue Tang, 3 x Cleaner Shrimps, 1 x Red Hermit and 1 x Red base LTA. [The Yellow Tangs have toned down a bit since the introduction of the Clowns]. <Uhh...> We test the water daily and our latest results are Ammonia - 0, Nitrates - 10, Nitrites - 0, PH - 8.2, SG - 1,023 and KH - 10. There is plenty of oxygenation and there are no 'dead spots' relating to the Powerheads anywhere in the tank. We are running T5's (12 hours/day) and Metal Halides (8 hours/day). All the fish look healthy and are eating fine. My problem rests with the sole Anemone that we have. The green tentacles are inflated and sway nicely in the current but it keeps falling over and resting upside down or sideways. <... this is oftimes called the "Sand Anemone"... please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm  re Macrodactyla, and the linked files above...> On first introduction, we placed it on a rock in the middle of the tank in good sight of the halides and with plenty of current but it "fell" down to the substrate. <...> I reluctantly moved it back to a rock higher up to the lighting but it does not look like it has anchored itself properly and there is some furry substance around the red base. Also, none of my clowns are interested in it at all! I am very concerned about it and am wary of the addition of more anemones at this stage. <... More? A very poor idea... again, please search, read before writing...> Regarding the attached pic, today, the anemone is now resting with the red base hanging over the left side of its rock ledge and the tentacles are holding on to the rock. I look forward to your advice! <Read. Bob Best Regards
Tammy Knott

LTA/Health 3/27/08 Hello, <Hi> I recently purchased a Long tipped <Tentacle> Anemone, Macrodactyla doreensis, and it seems to be doing well. It ate chopped shrimp right away. My question is, is it normal for the anemone to "wilt" when the lights are off. <Yes.> I will leave the lights on tonight just in case. <Do read here and linked files above for info on keeping this anemone. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm  James (Salty Dog)>

Re: Long Tentacle Anemone/Health 4/4/08 Hello, <Hi> I wrote nearly a week ago for info on my Long Tentacle Anemone, <Is best to reply with original email, I would know then what has already been said.> and woke this morning to find it upside down with its tentacles completely withdrawn. After turning it right side up, it perked up a little, and even more when I held it in my hand close to the light. I now think it is dying after it didn't respond as fast as usual to food. It was really to people's fault. The salesperson told me that the animal was hardier than the Bubble Tip Anemone, <Care level is about the same between these two.> and would be fine being fed chopped shrimp. It was my fault buying it without researching it first. <Bingo.> I was resolved to feed it every other day with chopped shrimp <Too often.> knowing that my lighting was very insufficient, but I suppose without the light, I should have been feeding it at least once a day, or better yet, letting the fish store keep feeding it. <Food is NOT going to compensate for lack of light.> I also think the lack of a protein skimmer played a role in its likely demise. <Lack of research played the biggest role.> I can only hope that upon returning home after school today that it will be unfurled in all it's beauty. <Mmm, may want to stay at school a little longer. You mention nothing of your system, lighting, etc. I'm assuming your light is no where near the required intensity and your system is lacking in proper filtration, including a protein skimmer. Do read here and learn what is needed for keeping these animals. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm James (Salty Dog)>

Re: Long Tentacled Anemone/Health 4/5/08 Actually, my luck held out. I just returned home to find my anemone completely and beautifully unfurled, like nothing had ever happened. <Good so far.> I am soon going to be purchasing a protein skimmer from the pet store I work at (Oh the wonders of the employee discount), and also plan to look into lights. Although I cannot give you the pH or Nitrate/ite because I have never tested them sadly, <The test kits should have been the first thing you bought.> my salinity is at 1.0215 and I have four 25 watt bulbs for my 125 gallon tank. <Yikes!> Would it be possible to put the special lights only on the side the anemone prefers? <Would be much better than you have.> And secondly without adequate light and feeding with regularity (once every 3 days) how long can I expect it to last? <A few weeks at most. By then it's health will more than likely be irreversible. Is best not to buy an animal if the means and knowing how to take care of it are not present.> Just to know so I can get moving on the skimmer and lights. I'm so happy it looks as healthy as it did at the pet store! <The lights should be your first priority, then a skimmer. What other filtration methods are you using? James (Salty Dog)>

Re: Long Tentacled Anemone/Health 4/8/08 The filtration in the tank consists of two Emperor 400 power filters on each side of the tank. Are the 4-7 week ph/ ammonia/ nitrate/ite in-tank test kits effective? <If you are referring to the Mardel Live Meter, they are for freshwater tanks only. James (Salty Dog)>

Re: Long Tentacled Anemone/Health 4/10/08 The anemone is looking healthy, and until I can buy better lights I have put both sets of lights over the anemone. Thanks for all of your help. <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>

Re: Long Tentacled Anemone/Health 4/11/08 I actually forgot one thing. I work at a pet store and I hope you guys don't mind that I recommend you for any fish questions that I can't answer. P.S.-did you enjoy the pics? <Is our purpose and yes, the pics were nice, thank you. James (Salty Dog)>

LTA?  is it too late? Hlth...   2/10/08 Hello, super site! <Hi, Mike I here> We are new to the saltwater tanks and so far so good - but, in the section of your anemone discussions . . . I was unable to avoid contacting you. <OK> The day we bought our clown and anemone ( pink long tentacle w/neon green highlighting throughout and a white base ) together all was GREAT! ! ! <White base does not sound like a Long Tentacled Anemone, but with you so far> It's been a few days now and the Clown is eating part of the anemone. <Yikes! Doesn't sound good if I'm understanding what it may be eating> At first, he fed it and slept in it and wouldn't leave the area. Now, he explores some while the anemone looks like it will die. It is curled into itself a lot and I am worried. The only difference to daily feeding has been a recent treatment of purple-up and marine snow for the others in the tank. Was this why? <Could be a number of things> How long does/should it take for the anemone to put it's foot down? <Almost immediately if healthy> I might be the reason it is in this state . . . what to do? DeAnna <Anemones are delicate little things, and not something that should usually be attempted to be kept until a little experience has been built up. You haven't stated your water parameters - would be helpful, as would details of your set up. List of other inhabitants too perhaps. How long have you owned the animal? Some pictures may help too. There are many reasons why anemones fail, and it may seem I'm asking for than giving, but is essential to try and provide more help. Mike I>

Shriveled Anemone Macrodactyla doreensis Declining Quickly -- 2/03/08 <Hello Mike, Brenda here!> I have an M. doreensis which is not doing very well at all. I've had it for about one year and it's gone downhill since it first arrived. <Ouch!> Long story short, the LFS (my FORMER LFS, I should add) gave me bad advice on just about everything. <This is not unusual. It is best to research everything before you purchase.> These last few months, I've been working on improving pretty much everything including an RO/DI unit, which I installed last week. My lighting is now PC, 260W on a 55-Gal. <This lighting is border line for this anemone. Metal Halide or T-5 with individual reflectors is best.> Theoretically this anemone should be happier. <I disagree that this anemone should be happy. It has lived a year in an inadequate environment.> However, I think I may be too late. My once beautiful specimen is now bleached, shriveled up to the size of a cocktail wiener and its' mouth is all inverted outwards and puffed out. <Yikes!> It has no more tentacles. <This is a sign of starvation.> Before its mouth puffed out, it had been accepting small pieces of Selcon-treated shrimp (though it ate very slowly). <What size portions?> Is there anything I can do to help it get better? <I would try super tiny (sliver size) portions of silversides.> How can I feed it if its' mouth is inverted? <Just lay the food near the mouth, without touching the anemone. What are your water parameters, such as temperature, salinity, pH, calcium and alkalinity? What other livestock do you have in there? Are there any clownfish hosting it? What protein skimmer are you using? Are you running fresh carbon? If you can, send me a picture of this anemone.> Thanks, Mike <You're Welcome! Brenda>

Re: Macrodactyla doreensis Declining Quickly -- 2/03/08 Hi Brenda, <Hi Mike!> WOW...quick response!...thanks! <You're welcome!> Well, the moral of the story is that my research methods have improved greatly. <Good to hear!> However, at the time I bought the anemone, I thought that the LFS owners' recommendation was 'good enough' research. I DID ask many 'right' questions...was it robust enough for a newbie...would it be OK in my relatively new tank etc. I DID trust this LFS; so I bought it ($70.00). It WAS beautiful. (see pic) The LFS actually told me, flat out, that the 48", 40W, single-bulb fixture that came with the kit was plenty of light and that "lighting is a gimmick designed to rip you off". <YIKES! This LFS should not be selling anemones! There are a few things I've found when speaking to the people at the LFS. These include things such as, they lie to you, to get your money, they sometimes don't know the care and requirements of anemones, nor do they themselves have the proper environment to keep them, and on very rare occasions I have found someone that is honest, and knowledgeable in anemone care. Always question and research before you purchase.> As you can see by that 'after' pic, it's been a rough ride for that poor thing. <Sure has!> Actually, the tank has been a rough ride for many inhabitants as I struggle to improve things. I'm battling ICH and HLLE on 2 hepatus tangs and along for the ride in the 20Gal hospital tank are 2 clowns (false Perc, I think) and a royal Dottyback (all 3 seem to be doing OK). The 55 has been fishless since Dec 15th. Remaining are 2 brittle stars, 2 Pacific cleaner shrimp, 1 Blood Red shrimp, 10 or so snails and 10 or so hermit crabs mostly blue-legged and a few Scarlett. <Crabs can be predators to anemones.> There is also a small anemone (probably majano) that I enclosed a pic of. <Yep, that is a Majano, a pest anemone.> Finally, a small amount of Anthelia. In December, I decided to set up the hospital tank and try to improve conditions in the 55. Earlier this year, I changed from dolomite to aragonite (the former having been sold to me by the flaky LFS, the latter recommended by a somewhat better LFS). The 'new' LFS worked with me to improve parameters...phosphates were high (3.0); <Do you have a refugium?> ALK and Calcium were way down...PH was 7.9. <A pH of 7.9 is a bit low, but not dangerously low. It is more important to be stable.> They sold me some Seachem products to improve things, as well as a product called 'Phos-Buster', which I dosed one time only. I replace the junky Skilter with an AquaC Remora (based on WWM recommendations). <I use and recommend Aqua C products.> I switched to a 2x T5 fixture based on the 'new' LFS's recommendation. I've been using Seachem Phosguard and have managed to keep it between 0 and 0.1 All of this was around May of 2007. In December I decided to upgrade the lighting (260W PC) based on what I read on WWM and also because I liked the look of PC lighting. <How many of these bulbs are actinic. Actinic bulbs do not benefit reef tanks very much. I think your still lacking on lighting here. PC is not the best option for a M. doreensis. I would only keep an E. quadricolor under this lighting.> Bought a fixture on eBay...'Odyssea', is the brand. <How old are the bulbs?> Nice unit...very happy. (However, had to remove covers to accommodate lighting...now lose about 1.5 liters per day...I don't let it get much lower than that.). <An auto top off device is best.> Next came the water; I'd been using a 'Tap Water Filter' unit since July but found the cartridges got used up FAST and the water sometimes developed a funky odor after 50 gallons or so. So I took the plunge 2 weeks ago and ordered a SpectraPure unit; 4-canister RO/DI and a TDS meter. <Great!> I'm hoping this helps with the phosphates issue, especially since I'm topping off the tank so often now (I aerate the top-off water at least 12 hours before using). <RO/DI water does not need to be aerated.> I've also started storing salted water in a plastic trash can. <Be careful using a plastic trash can. This can leach chemicals into your water. I've heard several complaints of phosphates being leached into the water from these cans. I personally do not recommend them.> I now dose with Seachem Reef Builder (in powder form) and Seachem Reef Calcium now (but WAS using Reef Complete). My CA is around 360 and the ALK is approx 2.7 (a bit hard to read w/my Red Sea test kit). <If you are having trouble maintaining Calcium and Alkalinity, you may want to check your Magnesium, you may find it a bit low.> My intention is to bring these up higher gradually but don't want to be aggressive because of the ailing anemone. PH is 8.3 and stable from what I can tell. <Good! Check it before the lights come on. Ph is highest at the end of the light cycle. A refugium with lights on when main display lights are off will help. You can also grow Macro algae here to help with your phosphate issues.> Temp is 78 and pretty stable, going to 79 sometimes. <I would raise it one degree.> Salinity 1.024 <Salinity is a bit low, gradually increase to 1.026 by using pre-mixed saltwater as your top off. Test salinity using a refractometer. Nitrates 0. Ammonia 0. <Good!> I have 4 carbon containers one gets changed weekly on a rotating basis. <Carbon is useless after a week or two.> 2 with the floss in an Emperor 400 + 1 in a media container, and a big brick 'o carbon in a HOT magnum. Attached are some pics: one 'before' of the anemone, a year ago; one taken today (sob...); one of what I think is majano and one of my clown to show you the type. I'm almost embarrassed to send you the pic I took of the anemone today...what a shame. <This anemone is in very poor health, but not dead yet!> I don't have any silversides...can I try a sliver of cooked shrimp w/Selcon on it? <Nope! Never feed cooked food. Always feed raw food, guts included. Raw shrimp from your local deli may work. However, Silversides is better in my experience. Your LFS should have this.> Thanks, Mike.
<You're welcome! Brenda>


Several reef questions-LTA, Sea Hare, etc... pre-eminent crash, reading, reading and understanding   01/22/2008 Hello WWM Crew, This is the first time I've asked a question and I must apologize up front, but this may be a long email. <No worries. Take your time> I'm sending a link with photos of my tank for you information. Before I ask my questions, I will tell you about the tank. It is a 34 gallon Red Sea Max system. We purchased it from our LFS on their recommendation. <What do you think of this (new) product? Craftsmanship? Value?> We now know it is more difficult to keep a smaller tank and we plan on moving in 6 months, at which time we will be getting a much larger tank. In the meantime, we need some advice on how to best care for our little creatures. In the tank we currently have two Ocellaris Clowns (one male and one female), yellow-tail Damselfish, Pajama Cardinal, 4-5 Nassarius snails, 3 small turbo snails, 1 fire/cleaner shrimp, Sandsifting starfish, Blue Tuxedo Sea Urchin, Sea Hare (that I've been unable to accurately identify), <Mmmm> Long Tentacle Anemone, <Yikes...> 1 mid-size red legged hermit crab, 3 smaller red-legged hermits, 1 very small emerald crab, a green star polyp coral, 2 very small sea mushroom coral (one of which is attached to what I was told to be "leather finger"), 2 other small soft corals that I can't seem to remember the name of at the moment but I believe to be pineapple/brain coral, and another Favites coral that is not in any photos because we just purchased it. According to yesterday's tests, water quality as follows: Temp: 78 Specific Gravity: 1.023-1.024 Calcium: 460 PH: 8.2 Phosphate: .1 Ammonia: 0-.15 <I do hope this is an anomalous reading... test kit artifact. This needs to be zero> Nitrate: 0 Nitrite: .05. <Ditto> We are aware that we need excellent water quality but we were told by our LFS that our levels were fine for us and we've NEVER had Ammonia at 0. Oh, the tank is fairly new, started in late October 2007. OK, so on to my questions. When we first put the LTA in our tank 2 weeks ago, we placed in where it is located in the photos and it remained there for a little over a week. Just the other day it began to move about. <An "unhappy" behavior> I looked up how to help it settle and tried moving it to a location and feeding it 1/2 of a Silverside. <...> It stayed there for 2 days and then began to roam again. I did the same thing again and it stayed for only 1/2 day and not it's roaming around again. I know that an unattached anemone is an unhappy anemone but I can't understand what more I need to do to help it find a home. <The other cnidarians... the Polyps, Corallimorphs...> When I found it yesterday morning it was sucked onto the sea urchin and I moved it because I didn't think that was a particularly good thing. I thought maybe our substrate wasn't appropriate but the LFS assures me it's fine. How long should I expect it to roam around the tank? <Not much longer... as it will be dead... perhaps the rest of your livestock with it> Should I right it if it's upside down? <Tentacle side up... and place a "strawberry basket or such over it> Based on the photos, can you recommend an appropriate placement that I could try? <... in looking at this animal, considering your system... I would remove, return it to your LFS. This specimen is very badly bleached (dying from a lack of zooxanthellae... which give it color... and nutrition) and your system does not have sufficient quality or quantity of light to support such an organism... Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm  and the linked files above> I'll be getting a net today to try that technique mentioned on your site. It's tentacles are usually out while it's roaming around, is this a sign of good health? <No my friend> Next question: The sea hare that I can't identify fell onto the anemone the other day. <Very bad...> Should I be worried about the anemone stinging it? <Yes... and I suspect this is not a tropical animal... See here: http://wetwebmedia.com/seaslugid.htm  re this Aplysia> I moved the sea hare when I saw it. What exactly happens to a marine animal if/when it gets stung by an anemone? <Too much to relate to you here... but is recorded on our site, elsewhere> Will I be able to identify if has happened? <This animal needs to be removed as well... is also mis-placed here> The sea hare was purchased less than a week ago and it's laid eggs on the side of the aquarium walls twice. <Stress... reproducing before it dies...> Should I clean this up or leave it alone (none of the aquarium inhabitants attempted to eat it). <Should be removed> The mushroom coral in the photo was purchased at the same time as the LTA. <...> It was open and appeared happy for several days. We added phytoplankton to the tank <Nothing you list actually eats this...> the day we got it and then forgot to refrigerate it so we didn't add any more until a week ago. It had shriveled up but the opened back up when we added the phytoplankton (which we were told to add 3 times a week). We also have been instructed to add 1 squirt of Arctipods once a week. Now the mushroom is shriveled again and has been for 2 days. Is this normal or is this a sign of bad health? If it's a sign of bad health is there anything I can do to help it? <... my friend... you need to read... And STOP buying "things", livestock...> Two more quick questions and them I'm done, I promise. We don't have an RO/DI filter yet (we won't be able to have one until we move) so we've been using Distilled water in the meantime. Since we've never had super great water quality, is this a contributing factor? <Not much> Is there anything we can to do help get the ammonia to 0 (Oh, I forgot, we add Amquel 1x/week)? <... this may be giving you a false positive...> Besides adding PH 8.2 to the distilled water, should I be doing something else? <Reading> Last question. I now know that our clowns don't naturally host with a LTA but is there a possibility that this might happen? <... reading> Is there anything I can do to help this process (besides a home for the LTA)? I know that they can survive without each other but it would be nice if they would pair, besides, the clowns have taken up residency in the little cave in our tank that was home to the shrimp. Now we hardly see the shrimp because it appears to have been pushed out of it's home by the clowns. It would be nice to be able to give it back it's home. Thank you for you wonderful site. I've learned a lot (much of which has come after making this purchase and had I known better would have made different choices). I've looked on your site for answers to my questions and I often see that you refer people to "read wetwebmedia.com about your question". If you are going to refer me to an article, can you please give me a link or please be very specific about the location of the article because I sometimes have difficulty navigating your site. Thank you, again. http://www.sendpix.com/albums/08012114/2t2jg47po0/  Link to photos of our tank Lynda Hounshell <Read and heed the above... and then, keep reading... Do NOT buy anything more w/o researching for yourself ahead of time. What you have now will very likely "crash" soon... You need to ACT with knowledge... ASAP. Bob Fenner>

New LTA question   5/25/07 Hello and thank you for all of the great info on your site! <Welcome!> I have a 7-month old 150 gallon saltwater tank with a 225 pounds of live rock, refugium, very strong Current Halide lighting, Current drop-in chiller, protein skimmer, 35 watt UV sterilizer and additional 4 power heads being directed by a Wave master.  My inhabitants are a Copper banded Butterfly, Sail fin Tang, Bellus Angel, 4 Chromis, 3 Blennies, 1 female square spot Anthias and 1 male Liar <Heeee! Lyre> tail Anthias. (The female Lair tail and Male Square spot Anthias recently passed.  I believe that it was due to the increased use of halide lighting once I added corals.  Both of them went into hiding and after a month or so, died).          <Mmmm> After about 5 months I added mushroom, elegance and bubble corals.  They have been thriving and growing well over the last two months. My water levels have been steady and I keep a good eye on the phosphate, calcium and alkalinity levels now that I have corals.  I keep the water temp at 76 with a variance of  2 degrees with a salinity of 1.0235.  I do a 30 gallon water change every two weeks with water I make from my R/O unit.  Since adding the corals, I noticed that keeping the alkalinity up is the main change in the water.  I add a dose Pro Buffer dKH almost every day.  Phosphates are a little bit of a challenge as the tanks is still kind of new.  When they get above .03 I add a dose of Phos-Pro liquid which the tang does not appreciate.  I also have a bag of Phos-ban in the refugium constantly.  The tank gets 13 hours of blue light (7am to 8pm)  and 7 hours of halide light (12pm to 7pm) everyday. Last weekend I purchased a LTA <Could be trouble mixed with the corals you list...> along with a male and female clown fish.  They were already an acclimated set together in the tank at the fish store.  I asked the salesperson the proper caring instructions. He replied that the LTA would attached itself to the sand and the fish would feed it.  Here's what I've done so far: I dug a little hole in the sand, placed the LTA in it then watched him be blown around by my power heads.  It ended up on the bottom, on its side next to my overflow with it's tentacles being sucked into the overflow slits.  Not damaged as far as I could tell.  I moved it back into place, put a live rock, shaped like a half-circle, behind it for stability and turned off the power heads. After one day, it appeared to be nestling into place.  This morning, it was closed up like a ball with the two clown fish trying to get inside of it.  Once the blue light came on and I fed the fish/corals it appeared to open a little, but then closed up again.  It's resting at an angle that's tilted probably 20 degrees.  If I turn on the power heads, I think it will be blown around again.  Given that the flow of the tank will probably push him into the overflow again, I'm worried.  He has a red bottom and it's tentacles are light tan to greenish.  My questions... 1)  Should I continue to keep the power heads off until the LTA settles in or should I run them as normal so it finds a spot that's comfortable? <Mmm, no... you need to re-arrange the flow such that it doesn't blow this animal about...> (I'm worried that if I run them he'll end up by the overflow again. Also I worry about the fish and my corals as they're used to the current provided by the power heads). <Yes, very important> 2)  Feeding?  Seems like the more I read, the more I see that I should be feeding him and not relying on the fish to feed him. <Correct> My current feeding for the fish is two to three times daily of Arctic-pods, herbivore minced and Mysis shrimp.  The corals are fed once each day either, Phyto-plan, Zoo-Plan, Cyclops or Mystic Snow. Thank you so much for your help!!!! Greg E. <Please... take a while and read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm Scroll down to the tray on Anemones, LTAs... Bob Fenner>

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