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Territorial Female Swordfish 5/13/13
I have a 26 gallon tank with 8 neon tetras, 2 black neon tetras, 2 male guppies, a male molly, a Pleco, and a female swordfish. My temperature and water quality are great (I bring samples to my pet store for testing regularly, and I monitor my thermometer).
<Ah, but the values mean more than the word "great" does. For example, Neons and Black Neons prefer soft, slightly acidic water, whereas Guppies and Swordtails prefer hard water with a pH above 7. Mollies may even do better in slightly saline conditions. In other words, what's "great" for Guppies will be "barely tolerable" for Neons, and vice versa.>
The female swordtail was given to me yesterday by a friend who was unable to care for her any longer. She was living with neon tetras in her last home. I introduced a small amount of my tank's water to hers and set her bag in my tank to adjust for a while. After introducing her to the tank, she seemed happy and quickly claimed one corner of my tank as her own. I noticed last night and this morning that she continues to chase my molly away every time he comes near her corner.
<Not unusual.>
She is fine with the guppies and tetras coming close, only chases the molly.
Do I need to worry about her becoming aggressive?
<She won't get any worse than she is now.>
I have yet to see her nip at anyone, but I love my molly and I hate to see him stressed. What can I do?
<Not much. Swordtails are naturally a bit boisterous, as are Mollies, so in a relatively small aquarium, a bit of friction is more than possible.
Swordtails rarely do much harm, but bear in mind they come from fast-flowing streams whereas Mollies prefer still water habitats, so Swordtails are much better (stronger, faster) swimmers. Needless to say while both species need a fair amount of space (26 gallons is only just enough for them) the Swordtail will want to rush about much of the time, so prefers a long rather than deep tank, and may even be a bit jumpy (literally as well as figuratively) in small aquaria.>
Sent from my iPhone
<Sent from my computer. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: High nitrates! Help!! 5/13/13
Thank you so much for your helpful advice. My game plan to get my nitrit<a>es down: replace the bio balls for Siporax, install a protein skimmer (which is daunting because I don't even know where to begin with those)
<Ahh, start w/ the Skimmer Selection FAQs on WWM>
and add more live rock to the 20lbs I already have. This small overhaul will take place this week. Should I do another 20% water change as well after the new products are added?
<Am a huge fan of frequent (weekly) partial water changes>
Keep in mind we did a 20% change Friday (5/10)
Thanks again!!! Sorry to be a pest.
<Not a bother. B>

Re: Queen Angel question 5/13/13
Hi Bob. I acclimated the Queen Angel and added her to my display tank. As of this evening, her fins are more cloudy. My Fridmani Pseudochromis is also showing a white cloudy patch on his fins and under his eye. My LFS has instructed me to use Melafix and Pimafix.
<Dump these people. Find a new source/store>
But I have read your thoughts on these so called "meds" and told them that I wasn't giving into that gimmick. The next thing they suggested was to use Maracyn Oxy because it is a non-antibiotic and will not hurt my biological filter.
<...>
They also said Maracyn Plus will do the same because it only targets "the bad bacteria".
<Ludicrous>
I smell BS here. I believe I'm dealing with a fungus seeing as there is no skin or fin erosion. Just small fuzzy growths on the body and fins. Is this something that the fish will kick itself given time, good husbandry, and nutritional foods? Or should I be looking into some kind of medication?
I have not medicated yet.

Thanks,
Shea
<Welcome. B>
Re: Queen Angel question 5/13/13
I use Selcon every time I feed. Do you think this will be sufficient enough
to rid the problem?
<Likely so; along w/ optimized, stable conditions>
Thanks,
Shea Carey
Re: Queen Angel question 5/13/13
Great. Thanks for your time Bob. Your help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Shea
<Ah, welcome>

Water Flow/Volume... <<RMF addenda>> 5/13/13
Your site is awesome, not enough hours in the day to sit and read all the information that is available. I also think my wife is starting to feel a little neglected. oops. As for my questions, I have a 6' long 125 gallon aquarium with an additional 75 gallons in a sump and a refugium. My goal is a reef system with limited fish, mostly inverts and corals. I am particularly drawn to LPS coral and some polyps. The display tank is on main floor, and equip is in a dedicated basement room. If "dilution is the solution" for reducing pollution would my tank benefit from adding a 175 gallon poly tank in my basement. I have plenty of room. I currently have a Mag 36 pumping water from sump to DT, gravity would provide flow from DT to poly tank then sump with skimmer, then refugium and then to pump chamber in sump. I would raise the poly tank off the floor so I could drain some water from bottom to remove any settled detritus from the tank. The pump is reduced to 2200 gph because of head pressure, and reduced more due to plumbing size restrictions. I'm not sure final actual water circulation. I don't have any other pumps or power heads running, I was relying on the Mag drive. My tank is drilled and has overflows in the 2 back corners and 2 additional bulkheads installed near the top also on back wall. I believe all 4 bulkheads use 3/4 pipe fittings which are too small I know but its what I have. This creates a lot of water noise due to volume moving thought small piping.
<<Yes; I'd abandon or drill out these fittings, through-puts... replace w/ 1.5", or 2" ID>>
I am wondering if I would be better served by replacing the Mag 36 with something smaller like around 750-1000 gph after head pressure adjustment, returning this water to DT thought the 2 bulkheads in the middle of the back wall, then add another circulation pump attached to a closed loop system with 4 or 6 outlets.
<<Yes; much better served. Along w/ the (still) redrilling of the overflows (and as large a fitting diameter as the discharge on the volute of the pump you settle on for the sump/main tank return). I would definitely do this>>
Water only escapes the DT from the top of the water column in the overflow boxes, should I be removing water from near the bottom of the tank also?
<<Mmm, not likely of use, much benefit, IF you're adding sufficient 'in-tank' circulation... this latter will "stir up" the bottom water enough...>>
If so how is this safely accomplished.
<<.. Can be done in a few ways... a "tee'd" (aspirated to the air at the top to break/disallow siphoning) line that has an extension to the bottom area is likely best for this sort of hobbyist setting). Again, I wouldn't do this>>
I plan on using a DSB soon.
<<Good>>
Also I use 3 -175 watt MH lights, do you feel this is enough for LPS like, frog spawn, hammer coral, bubble coral and so on... I have been considering switching to 250 watt MH... thoughts?
<<Mmm... I wouldn't likely switch from the 175s... better to just raise the LPS, other "light intensity loving" corals to higher levels on rock... use a PAR or PUR meter to ascertain light energy.>>
or maybe consider LED
<<Ah yes; if you can afford the initial investment... look to units that can be modified, adapted to another (likely larger) system>>
instead. I'm thinking I need to do something different with lighting because my frogspawn is not opening big for a while now and also my zoo's haven't been opening either.
<<See WWM re allelopathy... the better chance of what's going on here. Bob Fenner>>
I tested and have 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, 10 nitrates, (down from 20 forever.. finally progress) 8.3 pH, 425 calcium, don't have alkalinity or phosphate test. Thinking its water flow or lighting. I sincerely appreciate what the staff at WWM does, living in western Iowa there isn't much for LFS here. Plus never get same answer twice. Thanks again for giving of your time and opinions.
Thanks
Shawn
<Hi Shawn,
I'm Darrel - I usually answer reptile questions and although I have a Marine tank, I usually leave the aquaculture questions to the real Pros like Bob, James, Neale, etc. When I do chime in, it's on the engineering level at which I am very well qualified. The reason your letter caught my eye is because I, too, like doing things in a large scale and rely heavily on the engineering aspect to solve the technical problems -- so for that reason only, I want to chime in on one, tiny concern I have ... just food for your consideration -- AND NOTHING MORE -- then leave the real answers to the real pros.
Yes, Dilution is a great solution or at least a really great asset in our systems. With enough back-tank storage, you can make a 125 gallon tank carry the bio-load of a 350 or 400 -- we just think of it as a 400 gallon tank with all the fish residing in the same 125 gallon portion of that much larger amount of water. It's a cool and elegant solution.
Until the power or the pump fails -- and suddenly the 350 gallons of bio-mass are now stranded in the 125 gallon portion of the tank where the toxicity now increases exponentially. Since the bacteria of the nitrogen cycle grow on virtually ever wet surface in your system -- and they grow to the limit of their food source. What I'm saying is that in the proposal you mention below (125 gal tank and then 75 + an additional 175 in the basement) maybe as much as 2/3 of your nitrifying bacteria are now cut off from the system in which the bio-mass resides.
My concern would be that completely separate circulation systems are absolutely necessary in a situation like that and in reality there should be a third, totally separate circulation system that uses a low volume, low power pump that is fed from a backup UPS system like we use in home computer systems. >
Water Flow/Volume – 05/13/13 /EricR
Your site is awesome,
<<Thanks…a collaborative effort>>
not enough hours in the day to sit and read all the information that is available.
<<Indeed>>
I also think my wife is starting to feel a little neglected. Oops.
<<Uh-oh>>
As for my questions, I have a 6' long 125 gallon aquarium with an additional 75 gallons in a sump and a refugium. My goal is a reef system with limited fish, mostly inverts and corals. I am particularly drawn to LPS coral and some polyps. The display tank is on main floor, and equip is in a dedicated basement room. If "dilution is the solution" for reducing pollution would my tank benefit from adding a 175 gallon poly tank in my basement?
<<It would…as long as you don’t overstock the display beyond what can “get by” for a couple hours in the event of a power outage>>
I have plenty of room.
<<Go for it!>>
I currently have a Mag 36 pumping water from sump to DT,
<<A big pump…>>
gravity would provide flow from DT to poly tank then sump with skimmer, then refugium and then to pump chamber in sump.
<<Ok>>
I would raise the poly tank off the floor so I could drain some water from bottom to remove any settled detritus from the tank.
<<Good idea>>
The pump is reduced to 2200 gph because of head pressure, and reduced more due to plumbing size restrictions. I'm not sure final actual water circulation.
<<Easy enough to test if you can direct the output on to a container of known volume and “measure” how long it takes to fill>>
I don't have any other pumps or power heads running, I was relying on the Mag drive.
<<I personally prefer to not run large volumes of water through my sump/refugium/et al, and use “propeller” pumps (e.g. – Tunze Stream Pumps) to create flow within the display. Not only are the propeller pumps much more efficient re…reducing transient flow through the display/sump greatly reduces or eliminates issues with noise, bubbles, etc.>>
My tank is drilled and has overflows in the 2 back corners and 2 additional bulkheads installed near the top also on back wall. I believe all 4 bulkheads use 3/4 pipe fittings which are too small I know but it’s what I have. This creates a lot of water noise due to volume moving thought small piping.
<>
I am wondering if I would be better served by replacing the Mag 36 with something smaller like around 750-1000 gph after head pressure adjustment,
<>
returning this water to DT thought the 2 bulkheads in the middle of the back wall, then add another circulation pump attached to a closed loop system with 4 or 6 outlets.
<<You could do the closed-loop…but you will use a lot less power with MUCH better flow by dispensing with the CL and going with a couple propeller pumps>>
Water only escapes the DT from the top of the water column in the overflow boxes,
<<As it should…to help keep the organic film that develops at the air-water interface cleared away>>
should I be removing water from near the bottom of the tank also?
<<Not in my opinion…you don’t want to drain the display dry in the event of a power interruption. In fact, your overflows at the surface should be set so that your sump can easily handle/hold the transient water volume in such an event>>
If so, how is this safely accomplished?
<<It isn’t>>
I plan on using a DSB soon. Also I use 3 -175 watt MH lights, do you feel this is enough for LPS like, frog spawn, hammer coral, bubble coral and so on...
<<yes>>
I have been considering switching to 250 watt MH... thoughts?
<<Not necessary here>>
or maybe consider LED instead.
<<Is an option>>
I'm thinking I need to do something different with lighting because my frogspawn is not opening big for a while now and also my zoo's haven't been opening either. I tested and have 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, 10 nitrates, (down from 20 forever… finally progress) 8.3 pH, 425 calcium, don't have alkalinity or phosphate test.
<<Do get a test kit and check this…low Alkalinity may well be the issue with your corals>>
Thinking it’s water flow or lighting. I sincerely appreciate what the staff at WWM does; living in Western Iowa there isn't much for LFS here.
<<We’re happy to assist>>
Plus never get same answer twice. Thanks again for giving of your time and opinions.
Thanks,
Shawn
<<Happy to share… EricR>>

Green Spotted Puffer... color change... 5/13/13
Hi, I have a 75 gal Brackish system with green spotted puffers. One of the fish I ordered from Aquabid.com and it arrived from Pet Zone San Diego with a large fungus behind its dorsal fin and was quarantined and treated. The fungus came off and after a few weeks I put him in the 75 gal. Now when Spot eats, his stomach ties black and the rest of his body gets very dark and his spots disappear. It seems that he is still sick. Ghost shrimp, snails and live red worms are his main diet. Any thoughts.
Sincerely: Steven
<It's not uncommon for GSPs to change colour somewhat, particularly to go darker than normal at times. If your GSP is otherwise normal, e.g., feeding properly, breathing normally, and shows no other signs of stress or damage, I'd not be overly concerned. You could, of course, try a Metronidazole and Nitrofurazone combo, as this is a pretty good approach for medicating fish with indistinct but definite signs of parasite infections, but if yours isn't obviously swollen, spotty, developing ulcers or defecating abnormally, then treatment may be a waste of money. Do try visiting the excellent ThePufferForum website. The guys and gals there are very helpful and knowledgeable. Cheers, Neale.>

Rift Valley Salt Mix - safe for Pearlscales? /Neale 5/13/13
Hello,
I have a two-year old Pearlscale goldfish, about the size of a Macintosh apple, that has had a number of problems, some or perhaps most due to my initial ignorance in providing the correct care (despite my best intentions and doting habits). I have continued to educate myself through your site's FAQs and others to provide the best conditions possible with my present set-up. He is currently alone in a 20-gallon tank (started out in a 10-gallon with an Oranda friend who died after several months) until I can afford his next upgrade, hopefully 40 gallons, and later adding one or two friends if/when he remains without issue for an extended period . Without going into the entire history of Eggbert's various problems, my mistakes and the corrective actions I have taken (upgraded tank size, upgraded filtration with 10x GPH, frequent 50% water changes, daily when problems occur, and two to three times weekly when doing well; vegetarian-based diet, etc), I have a question I hope is simple.
Is the recommended Rift Valley Salt Mix, which contains a small amount of marine salt, safe for Pearlies? My Pearlscale has intermittently had blisters that appear to be filled with clear fluid -- at times one or two small ones, other times sudden outbreaks of multiple larger blisters, which I've read is a common problem for this particular fancy goldfish. One of the stronger theories for the cause of these blisters that I have read is that Pearlscales are more sensitive to salt than other goldfish and may have a more difficult time with osmoregulation. Therefore I never use regular aquarium salt for him anymore should an issue arise, as most fish forums tend to recommend this for stressed or ill fish, among other measures. Would the marine salt be safe for him as part of the Rift Valley recipe, or should I just use the recommended amounts of Epsom salt and baking soda, minus the marine salt?
Thanks very much,
Mary Kay
<In a word, yes, at the concentrations recommended, Rift Valley salt mix, whether home-brew or store-bought, will be perfectly safe with Goldfish.
But if you want, you could leave the salt out altogether and still receive the benefits of buffering the pH and raising the hardness. Cheers, Neale.>
Rift Valley Salt Mix - safe for Pearlscales? /RMF 5/13/13
Hello,
<MK>
I have a two-year old Pearlscale goldfish, about the size of a Macintosh apple, that has had a number of problems, some or perhaps most due to my initial ignorance in providing the correct care (despite my best intentions and doting habits).
<Ahh! Good traits for an aquarist>
I have continued to educate myself through your site's FAQs and others to provide the best conditions possible with my present set-up. He is currently alone in a 20-gallon tank (started out in a 10-gallon with an Oranda friend who died after several months) until I can afford his next upgrade, hopefully 40 gallons, and later adding one or two friends if/when he remains without issue for an extended period . Without going into the entire history of Eggbert's various problems, my mistakes and the corrective actions I have taken (upgraded tank size, upgraded filtration with 10x GPH, frequent 50% water changes, daily when problems occur, and two to three times weekly when doing well; vegetarian-based diet, etc), I have a question I hope is simple.
<Me too>
Is the recommended Rift Valley Salt Mix, which contains a small amount of marine salt, safe for Pearlies?
<Yes it is>
My Pearlscale has intermittently had blisters that appear to be filled with clear fluid -- at times one or two small ones, other times sudden outbreaks of multiple larger blisters, which I've read is a common problem for this particular fancy goldfish. One of the stronger theories for the cause of these blisters that I have read is that Pearlscales are more sensitive to salt than other goldfish and may have a more difficult time with osmoregulation.
<A possibility, yes>
Therefore I never use regular aquarium salt for him anymore should an issue arise, as most fish forums tend to recommend this for stressed or ill fish, among other measures. Would the marine salt be safe for him as part of the Rift Valley recipe, or should I just use the recommended amounts of Epsom salt and baking soda, minus the marine salt?

Thanks very much,
Mary Kay
<Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Tank Stand, will it work? 5/13/13
Hello
<Pedro>
Since you kindly offered to give your opinion about a tank stand here is what's going on:
Firstly I would like to apologize for my English... :)
<No worries. I understand you perfectly>
Secondly I will use the metric system. I hope you are familiar with it...

I bought at a second hand furniture store 2 tables at a very cheap price (5 Euros each)
Each table top is squared, having each side 62 centimeters long.
My idea is to put them both side by side to form one structure with 124 centimeters long by 62 centimeters wide.
<Okay... I take it this will be a glass tank, with a plastic frame... and a floating (inset) bottom>
On top of this I would like to have my new tank:
120 centimeters long X 60 centimeters wide X 50 centimeters high (preferably) Or 120 centimeters long X 50 centimeters wide X 50 centimeters high.
<All right>
The bottom structure of the tables is made of welded iron tube (with a side of 3 centimeters ).
I already drilled 1 hole on each of the middle/center legs to have them attached with 2 screws so they can act as just one leg.
<Ok>
The tables:
[IMG_20130425_160141.jpg]
Bottom view of one of the tables:
[IMG_20130425_160240.jpg]
The tables, I think, have an MDF top, which is quite solid so I would guess is massive wood ....
<Will do... I would paint/seal this wood... to prevent rotting, swelling when it gets wet/ted>
Some details on the welding points of the iron tubes:
[IMG_20130425_160252.jpg]
[IMG_20130425_160302.jpg]
[IMG_20130425_160317.jpg]
[IMG_20130425_160329.jpg]
[IMG_20130425_160352.jpg]
[IMG_20130425_160410.jpg]
[IMG_20130425_160422.jpg]
[IMG_20130425_160440.jpg]
The screws I used to attach the center/middle legs are very similar to this ( 6 millimeters diameter):
[images.jpg]

So, my question is, do you think this structure is able to hold safely a 360 liters tank with some rock on it ?
( I pretend to have a Malawi tank with some rocks)
<Likely so... though I want to point out this system will likely weigh some 409 kg.s or so... that I would add a sheet of plywood cut to fit under all the stand legs... and level the tank there... unfilled, and check it as it is being filled... AND add a sheet of 10-20 mm Styrofoam between the tank and the top of the stand... to even out slight imperfections>
I intend to put 2 centimeters roofmate between the stand top and the tank bottom.
<Oh, good>
I can also put 2 centimeters maritime plywood between the roofmate and the stand top. Would that be necessary ?

If I choose to go with a 120(l)X50(w)X50(h) centimeters tank instead of 120(l)X60(w)X50(h) centimeters would there be a problem ?
<No>
In this case the stand top would be 6 centimeters wider than the tank (in the front and in the back)
<Not a problem>
So, these are my doubts ...
Thank you very much for your patience to read all this :)
<Certainly welcome>
Best regards
Pedro
<Nos vemos. Bob Fenner>

Re: Tank Stand 5/13/13
OK Bob,
<Hola!>
Thank you so much for your advices.
<Welcome>
I plan to buy a glass tank with no plastic frame and no floating bottom.
So the bottom glass will be directly/totally in contact with the stand|plywood|Styrofoam.
But despite this, maybe it's not a cause of concern.
<NOT if the surface is level and planar...>
I am going forward with this project and add split washers to the nut ends.
<Good>
And I will fill the tank very slowly to see how it reacts, trying to level it the best as I can.
Once again thank you so much.
"Obrigado" Bob
<Por nada mi amigo>
Best regards
Pedro
<RobertoF>

Tank Building 5/13/13
Hey WetWebCrew
<Hello Yasi>
How is every one doing?

I would like to build a tank, and I need some help. I would like to build 3m x 0.60m x 0.60m tank, i have built smaller tanks, but this is the biggest I would have built, I need help deciding on the best thickness of glass
<12 mm would be best/sufficient... Some folks, businesses might try to get away w/ 10 mm... I would not... given the length of this tank...>
and how to build the struts and supports to stop in bowing and breaking.

I'm not sure if I should use a sump as here where I am we some times have long power cuts and I don't want water everywhere, unless there is a better way to build it so if the power goes and the pump stops working things won't go amiss.
<This is merely/just a matter of allowing sufficient volume in your sump for this eventuality... In other words, not filling it so high as to allow for the water in transit to accumulate there if/when the power quits>
Regards
Yasi
<And you, Bob Fenner>

Re: Oranda with curved spine (RMF, thoughts?)... <<Genetic... and developmental... common for the breed, folks in the west/feeding. Would refer to Sab's Floaty GF pc... no "trt.mt needed or desirable">>, now floating, ensuing hypochondria 5/13/13
Hi Neale-
<Hello Gina,>
Long delay since my last question but I am frantic right now.
<Really?>
The Oranda has very suddenly begun floating upside down at the top of the tank and has been this way for three days now- this is bacterial, not swim bladder: her belly is so mushy between the ventral fins and is slightly pink (like bruising) with a couple bloody spots starting to show.
<Sounds a systematic bacterial infection of some sort. Treat promptly, preferably after consulting with an experienced vet (find one who caters for Koi, as these are often the best for Goldfish too). Feeding antibiotics is the next best thing to injecting, while adding the water is the least good, though much better than nothing.>
What antibiotic provides the best "bang for the buck" so to speak- I can do Kanamycin or Metronidazole or both or perhaps Baytril injections.
<There's no single magic bullet. But a combination that treats gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria is a good starting point, e.g., Maracyn 1 and Maracyn 2.>
I am assuming gram negative but of course it could be positive.
<Quite so, and without doing microscope work and/or culturing samples, you can't tell.>
I am on the way to the vet to see if I can get Baytril to have on hand. Is there ANYTHING I can do? Would heat help?
<Above room temperature, no, not really.>
I had this happen with one other fish several months ago and managed to save it by stuffing it full of Kanamycin-laced gel food but this may not work as well for this large fish.
<May work.>
Is it safe to feed Kanamycin while on Baytril?
<Ask a qualified vet; I honestly don't know. Should be safe, but can't be sure.>
I am sorry I am firing all sorts of questions out there but I am really upset at the moment.
Thank you for all of your help:
Gina
<Hope this helps, Neale.>

FW dip freak out 5/10/13
Good evening crew!
<Sorry re the late resp. Was out last night>
I just bought a Flame Angel to go into my 55 gallon tank.
<Really needs about twice this volume>
I don't have the means for a quarantine tank at this time which I know is like playing with fire but I'm trying to make due. I performed a FW dip for a timed 14-15 minutes
<... pH adjusted? Aerated?>
during which time he displayed no visible signs of stress. I adjusted the PH as best I could (only have test strips), matched the temp, and added just enough Methylene blue to make the water a tad bit darker than sky blue and was running a small air stone.
<Ah, good>
After the 14-15 minute bath I used a soft net to take him out, rinse him and the net in a separate bowl of tank water, and gently placed him in the main tank which has two percula clowns and two skunk cleaner shrimp. He immediately started swimming around, checking out the new surroundings. I kept the lights on night/led blue to lessen the stress. Thinking all is well I turned in for the night. Well you know how your brains does it's hardest and best work while you're trying to drift off, well it was during this time I realized that in my stresses out state over the FW dip, I had never added the de-chlorinator to the tap water!!!
<Ooh>
I live in a suburb of Chicago so I'm sure there's chlorine in my tap water. In my sudden state of panic I went to check on him and found him hiding in the live rock, on his side on the bottom. Upon closer examination I saw he was breathing very heavy. I turned the flashlight away and checked back a few minutes later to see him upright however still breathing very heavy. Heavy enough that his whole body was heaving. I've decided to leave him alone and pray I find him alive in the morning. My question is, can/could not de-chlorinating the water cause his demise?
<Could significantly contribute to stress, loss; yes>
Anything I can do or shouldn't of done?
<Not really; no.>
Thanks for reading. Send some healing vibes to my little guy caused by my stupid self.
Sincerely,
Heather
<Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Re: FW dip freak out 5/11/13
Thank you for the reply Mr. Fenner! Just as a follow up; after 24 hours of dim lighting and quiet, he has survived my mistake and is happily swimming like normal and picking at my live rock.
<Ah good>
Was it chlorine itself in the water that somehow hurt him?
<Chloramine; the nowayears tap sanitizer most everywhere in "the West">
Thanks again!
<Welcome. BobF>

Queen Angel question, hlth. quarantine 5/10/13
Hey crew! I have had a 5.5 inch Queen Angel in quarantine for the past 3 weeks. I have been watching this growth appear on the base of the tail for the past 2 weeks. It is a big raised white bump. It looks almost like the head of a Q-tip. I figured it was lymphocytes and that it would go away in a month or so.
<Mmm, no; more likely to "progress" given the stress here>
Now today it's fins have a couple white patches on them. The fish is also "twitching" and shaking a lot. The fish is eating great. I'm feeding brine shrimp, Nori, and NL Spectrum pellets. I soak all foods in Selcon. Is this something that I should be medicating for?
Thanks,
Shea
<Nope. I'd move this fish, perhaps add a/some purposeful cleaner organisms to the main/display. Bob Fenner>
Re: Queen Angel question 5/11/13
So I should move the fish to the display?
<Yes I would>
If it is bacterial of fungal, will it infect the other inhabitants?
<Worth the small risk IMEstimation>
A cleaner probably wouldn't be a great idea for my display. I have a 4" Picasso Trigger and I'm afraid he would eat any cleaner shrimp/gobies that I place in there.
<Generally leave alone cleaner gobies... but I'd try another fish cleaner species/group. See WWM re>
Any idea why he is twitching and shaking so much?
<Could be a few things, but likely signaling... behavioral/communication... listen carefully and you may also hear this fish grunting... "Get out of my way" basically... Move it. B>
Thanks,
Shea
Re: Queen Angel question 5/11/13
Ok thanks Bob. I will get her acclimated and move her over. I'll keep you updated if these cloudy spots progress.
Thanks,
Shea
<Ah, thank you. BobF>

Re: High nitrates! Help!! 5/11/13
I been reading since last night and I'm wondering, should I get rid of the bio-balls that come with the Biocube?
<Yes I would>
Will this help to drop my high nitrate levels?
<Yes>
(20-40 ppm) And if so, what should I put in their place? What would you recommend?
<... perhaps a bit of live rock, Siporax, Ehfi Mech...>
This is all quite overwhelming for me being a new hobbyist.
<Ahh!>
Oh, and if it makes a difference, I have almost no algae growth in my tank.
Is this a factor as well?
<Likely is related>
Thanks again!!!
<Welcome. BobF>

High nitrates! Help!! Sm. SW, rdg. 5/11/13
I've been scouring your website as I frequently do for help and tips. And I'm in desperate need of help tonight. Our nitrate levels in our tank are off the charts!! Between 20 and 40 ppm.
<Mmm, this isn't all that high>
This is a fairly new tank (2-3 months old) and this is what we are working with: Biocube 29 gallon. 20 lbs live rock, live sand substrate. No skimmer.
(We were told at the LFS on a tank this size we didn't really need one. I'm now second guessing that.)
<I'd add, have a skimmer for sure>
Our creatures include a Banggai cardinal, two Percularis clowns and a fire shrimp.
The readings for Ph, ammonia and nitrites are where they should be. All good. Except for the nitrates. Bad.
We did a 20% water change and tested again, and the reading results still showed the same number. I've read it isn't an instantaneous change, so how long should I expect to wait before I start to see a change?
<Won't by simply changing water...>
Should I do another water change? Will a skimmer help to keep nitrate levels down?
<Yes... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nitratesmar.htm
the linked files above... There are quite a few tried and true mechanisms for countering NO3 accumulation>
I'm new to all of this and to be honest this is kinda freaking me out!!! I want all my inhabitants happy and healthy, and my water to be stable.
Help me please!!!! I consider you folks as my "go to" guys and gals for all things fishy!!!!!
Thanks!!
<Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Re: High nitrates! Help!! 5/12/13
I been reading since last night and I'm wondering, should I get rid of the bio-balls that come with the Biocube?
<Yes I would>
Will this help to drop my high nitrate levels?
<Yes>
(20-40 ppm) And if so, what should I put in their place? What would you recommend?
<... perhaps a bit of live rock, Siporax, Ehfi Mech...>
This is all quite overwhelming for me being a new hobbyist.
<Ahh!>
Oh, and if it makes a difference, I have almost no algae growth in my tank.
Is this a factor as well?
<Likely is related>
Thanks again!!!
<Welcome. BobF>

Re: baby goldfish 5/12/13
Bob ,
Just one more question.
My goldies are spawning again.
Is it OK to put new eggs with the week old hatchlings?
Sincerely,
Barb K
<Not usually a good idea... all need room, differential growth, and food needs... B>

Is this a Blue or Queen Angel 5/12/13
Greetings to you all today!
I am Michael, I have recently acquired a blue angel last week. She has been a vigorous eater and eagerly accepts my New Life Spectrum Pellets!
<Ah yes>
Whew~
Anyway the more I look at her the more I think she is a queen angel. Now, I read an article recently on here stating that in juvenile colors these two angels are hard to tell a-part. Except one may have curves and one may not.
It seems mine has both haha! I have no clue! So hopefully you guys can
help me out here. And to you all thanks for this site, its really helpful!
~Michael H.
<No crown... Bob Fenner>

Queen Angel question, hlth. quarantine 5/10/13
Hey crew! I have had a 5.5 inch Queen Angel in quarantine for the past 3 weeks. I have been watching this growth appear on the base of the tail for the past 2 weeks. It is a big raised white bump. It looks almost like the head of a Q-tip. I figured it was lymphocytes and that it would go away in a month or so.
<Mmm, no; more likely to "progress" given the stress here>
Now today it's fins have a couple white patches on them. The fish is also "twitching" and shaking a lot. The fish is eating great. I'm feeding brine shrimp, Nori, and NL Spectrum pellets. I soak all foods in Selcon. Is this something that I should be medicating for?
Thanks,
Shea
<Nope. I'd move this fish, perhaps add a/some purposeful cleaner organisms to the main/display. Bob Fenner>
Re: Queen Angel question 5/11/13
So I should move the fish to the display?
<Yes I would>
If it is bacterial of fungal, will it infect the other inhabitants?
<Worth the small risk IMEstimation>
A cleaner probably wouldn't be a great idea for my display. I have a 4" Picasso Trigger and I'm afraid he would eat any cleaner shrimp/gobies that I place in there.
<Generally leave alone cleaner gobies... but I'd try another fish cleaner species/group. See WWM re>
Any idea why he is twitching and shaking so much?
<Could be a few things, but likely signaling... behavioral/communication... listen carefully and you may also hear this fish grunting... "Get out of my way" basically... Move it. B>
Thanks,
Shea

Help for sick turtle 5/10/13
Dear Crew,
<Hiya - Darrel here>
We got 4 Red ear turtles kids of around 3 months old. Earlier 2 were not looking normal so we got guidance from VET & gave booster shots then all was fine. But after another 3 months 1 kid stopped food for almost now 15 days. Gone pale & just every 15 mints makes click sound & heads up to yawn like. He always bask under UV & remain away from water.
Please guide at the earliest, We are very much worried. Other 3 are fine & well grownup.
<Yes it sounds like the little one needs some help. He probably has a respiratory infection and should be seen by a veterinarian and likely a course of antibiotic treatments.>
<Please read here about treating at home:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/treating%20RES%20Dis%20DarrelB.htm >
We change water 3 times a day & feed 2 times a day & bask UV 15 hours a day.

Yellow Fiji Coral... hlth., no data 5/11/13
I am having a problem with my yellow Fiji coral.
<...? Sarcophyton elegans? This soft coral is a poor survivor in most hobbyist settings>
I noticed a film on it thought it was shedding like most leathers do and blew the film off and when I did it opened up two huge holes in it.
<Mmm, likely a predator or two at work here... do "dig around" the wound sites... for mollusks and worms... And see WWM re (Errantiate Polychaete/Bristle) control (baiting/trapping/removal>
One on the base and one on the cup of it. I want to save this coral if at all possible. Thank you for any advice
<... search for all on WWM. Bob Fenner>
Re: Yellow Fiji Coral 5/11/13
No preds in the tank
<... likely there are... again, try a baited trap, at night>
the tank is 8 years old...I have a clown and a damsel in there and snails and yes it is a Sarcophyton Elegans. I have searched your website over that is why I finally emailed you....we treated for dino last week so it had no lights for 3 days but I kept an eye on the param.s and when we finally uncovered the tank and turned the lights on It was still bright and yellow.
<... well; the holes could be from other cause/s... Need data re the other livestock, mechanicals/controllers, water quality tests... Perhaps allelopathy or a chemical over-under imbalance... B>

Crabs and inverts found at beach, collecting for SW food 5/11/13
Hello
<Dan>
I live in Massachusetts and often go to the beach, by the jetty there are always crabs, mussels, ect. I am just curious to know if I can catch these and feed them to my tusk, trigger, and puffer to supplement their diet.
Thank you

Of bristle worms and clams 5/10/13
Hello everyone. I have always seen bristle worms as the good guy as I have never seen one eat anything unless it was dead or dying.
<Mmm, well, there are many species... some much more predaceous than others>
I just got a Derasa clam yesterday. It is a beautiful clam and is doing well. It was even trying to attach today. Suddenly I saw a bristle worm poking around on the rock the Derasa was trying to attach to. It must have touched the clam's foot because it caused the clam to retract violently and it fell on its side. These are the garden variety bristle worms. They are not Eunicids or anything like that. Should I be worried? Thank you as always.

Re: Of bristle worms and clams 5/10/13
Thank you Bob for the heads up. Shortly after I wrote you I moved the clam onto some branch rock and it is in a position that should make getting into the byssal gland harder to reach. I will try to bait out the worms. Should not be too hard. I have been watching closely in the mean time.
<Real good James. Cheers, BobF>
Re: Of bristle worms and clams 5/11/13
Ok one last question for today. How long does it take a juvenile Derasa clam to lose its byssal gland and drop into the sand assuming ideal conditions?
<Can be lost, dead and gone w/in an hour... more often a few days>
Thank you Bob and the rest of the crew. I have learned tons already from this site and will continue to for a very long time to come.
<Ahh, am glad you have benefited, enjoyed our shared efforts/time. BobF>

Sargassum Trigger, conspecific comp. 5/9/13
Hi
<Hey Cheryl>
Would really appreciate your advice on the following. Is it possible for two Sargassum Triggerfish to live happily together in the same tank?
<Yes; if the system is large (enough)... a hundred gallons to start w/ let's say, if the specimens are small (3-4" or so in total length)... Need a couple hundred gallons plus when large/r to do well in captivity>
We introduced a new Sargassum to our tank two days ago and our existing Sargassum has not taken too kindly to his new tank mate. Both fish were kept in the same tank in our local fish shop and seemed to get along fine there. We bought the larger fish around a month ago. He (I think he is male) settled in well with our existing set up: 2 wrasses, 1 sulphur goby,
2 Darwin Clowns, 1 fire fish and 1 Kole tang. There are also some small crabs and 1 peppermint shrimp.
<Your triggers (and likely whatever Labrids these are) may well consume the crustaceans>
All get along fine and our water parameters are great. There is live rock in the tank and it is large enough for everyone to have their own space.
<? How large?>
Everyone feeds well, is healthy and there has been no aggression or destructive behaviour.
The remaining (smaller) Sargassum remained in the shop and I guess I felt sorry for it. So, two days ago we bought him/her home. We put the fish through a quarantine session and then introduced it to the tank. At first things seemed fine but have since deteriorated badly. The new fish just seemed shy at first but ate and swam around, though was nervous when the
larger fish approached. The larger Sargassum is now behaving aggressively towards the smaller Sargassum. There was some fighting this morning and since then the smaller fish has just hidden behind some rock. All the other fish are fine and their behaviour is no different.
Will they ever get along?
<Mmm; likely yes. IF this were me/my system, fish/es, I'd (use two) net out the larger resident trigger and "float it" in a large plastic colander in the tank (w/ the lights off) for a few days... to give the new an opportunity to rest up, become more familiar... This "time out" period often works well to "take the vinegar" out of an aggressor>
I realise in hindsight we should have bought them together. Should we return the new fish back to the shop? We have a small quarantine tank so we have thought about taking the larger fish out for a day or two and then reintroducing him to the main tank in the hope this will stop him behaving so territorially. Will this work?
<Ah yes; also a good, worthwhile possibility>
Thanks for your advice.
Cheryl
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: Sargassum Trigger 5/9/13
Hi
<Cher>
Many thanks for quick response and advice. The larger Sargassum is going to have a mini break in the smaller tank for a day or two and then be reintroduced.
<Ah, good>
I'll let you know how things work out.
<Thank you>
Once again, thank you x
Cheryl
<Cheers, BobF>

PH water chemistry question 5/9/13
Hi Neale (if you're working tonight), I moved my Betta back in the 10 gal planted tank on Saturday. Well I'm having problems already. His fins healed up good, when I put him back in the bottom fin was healed completely, the tail fin was about 90% healed, the top had a tiny split. I figured he was good to go since it was healing up with the daily water changes and salt in the 1.5 gal. Well the split is a little more now and the back tail has two tiny holes. The back tail is starting not to look good.
<Oh dear. Do make sure the filter current isn't too strong… a common flaw in Betta aquaria. Do use air-powered sponge or box filters; do not use anything with an electric plug. Fancy varieties of Betta splendens do poorly swimming against water currents, and the stress and strain from doing so can cause fins to become frayed.>
My tank filter flow was too strong with the HOB. I put a baffle on it, but the space was too big. He swam through it like a cave and played in the waterfall! Yesterday I put filter media in the intake tube and out flow. Now it's basically no flow. Now I'm concerned about the plants in terms of distribution of the Ferts. I have a heavy dosing regime and I wonder if that affects him too.
<Unlikely, but do try something out. Halve the dosage of all your plant supplements. Shouldn't cause your plants to die, or even to slow their growth enough to cause problems. See what happens over a few weeks. If the Betta heals better, and the plants are still good, then maybe there was a link. I can't see why there should be, but putting your idea to the test is worthwhile. At the end of the day plants grow back better from stress than fish, so it's a sacrifice worth making.>
NPK, iron, excel daily. I had a look of my tank and saw the debris at the bottom and cleaned more a couple days ago. I hate to take him back out the tank he hated it in the QT and got very depressed. I can clean/ change the water every other day say 15-30%maybe that would help. It's hard with live plants. If I had a regular set up I would clean it spotless. It's tough with this layered gravel, roots etc. I do have meds but don't want to go there just to put him back and start all over. Please help I'm concerned and frantic. Sorry for the drama, but it's true. Also considered a sponge filter, but the loud air pumps drive me nuts. Thanks for who ever is able to respond.
Donetta
<Hope this helps. Cheers, Neale.>

Hitch hikers ID? 5/9/13
Hi Bob! How are you?
<Fine, thank you>
I was wondering if you have half a second, maybe you can take a peek at some hitch hikers I am trying to ID. There's nothing more fun than getting new live rock and waiting to see what pops up right?
<Few things>
:) Last time I was up north I picked up a few beautiful pieces at Aqua life in Northern California~ they're amazing at that store. It's like searching for buried treasure~ they let you pick through and aren't stingy, most pieces are already encrusted with coraline and whatever you find you keep whether they're mushrooms, hard corals, polyps, etc...
<Great to hear/read of exemplary folks in the trade>
I've gotten a green slimer before, tons of polyps/mushrooms/Montis, even one time I found 4 large Christmas tree rocks (the real ones!!) for $6.99 lb... Gorgeous!! I couldn't believe my luck! Tragically my peppermint shrimp ate ALL of the beautiful, colorful worms within a few weeks, still makes me sad, but that's besides the point... So onto topic: it's been about a month since I threw the pieces into my Harlequin nano tank and some interesting growths have appeared.. What do you think these are?
Picture #1 looks like a UFO, what is this?
<An alcyonacean, likely Alcyoniid... My bet is on this being a Sarcophyton sp.>
Picture #2~ little fuzzies that resemble Q-tip tips... Good or bad?
<More good than... Syconoid sponges>
Picture #3~ I know what the daisy looking ones are but what is the orange crusty stuff? And the ugly brown blob that is growing above it?
<Daisy is a Clove/Polyp/Clavulariid, all others are likely Poriferans>
Thanks again for all of your help~ you're the best!
xo
<Am only good at being myself. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Re: Hitch hikers ID? 5/9/13
Cheers to you :)
<And you Leah. BobF>

Tank stand 5/10/13
Hi
I have a doubt about an aquarium stand.
I am not sure If it can support the new tank I am willing to buy....
If I send you some pictures would you be kind enough to give your opinion about it ?
Thank you very much
<Sure thing. -NateG>
Best regards
Pedro
Tank stand 5/10/13
Hi
<Hello Pedro>
I have a doubt about an aquarium stand.
I am not sure If it can support the new tank I am willing to buy....
If I send you some pictures would you be kind enough to give your opinion about it ?
<Certainly, send them along as well as your tank dimensions.>
Thank you very much
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Best regards
Pedro

Alkalinity 5/10/13
Hi Crew,
<Hello Adam>
Just wanted to double check with you as I have read it should not be a problem. I run a FOWLR system and I recently started testing for Alkalinity and it was off the scale of over 17dKH. All my fish are fantastic, even delicate species like Yellow Cubicus boxfish/Blueface angel etc and I think this is due to an overdose with Seachem Marine Buffer. Unless you recommend something different I am going to leave the system for the natural biological cycles to bring down the alkalinity and use smaller doses next time.
<No danger and I would let it take it's course, regular water changes will help lower the dKH. Do not add any buffers during this period. James (Salty Dog)>
Regards, Adam.

Using nature/Limestone and Mangrove Mud 5/10/13
Dear Wet Web Media,
<Hello Alyssa>
I live off the West Coast of Florida. I am setting up a new 265 gallon system. A beach nearby has tons of limestone rock everywhere. If I cured this, would it be safe to add to my tank? I have a 40 gallon refugium and another spare 40 gallon tank that I plan on making a Mangrove refugium with a deep sand bed. Is it ridiculous to consider using "real" mangrove mud? I can't seem to rule out these options in my readings and thought I should go to the source.
<Well the limestone/dolomite is certainly safe to use but you run the risk of bringing unwanted microorganisms into your system. Would be best to let the rock bleach in the sun for a week or so to ensure no living organisms are on or within the rock itself and then go through the curing process.
As far as the mud, I would just buy some Miracle Mud or similar product.>
Thanks!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Alyssa

chillers... Sizing, pumping 5/10/13
<please suppress my email if it is to be published - thank you>
<Ah yes; we always do; unless the person expressly requests it be made public>
Hello.
Thanks for the forum as I get many of answers from past Q&A.
Chillers has been talked about often. It has been mentioned if your flow rate is less than the recommend it may damage the chiller as ice may form because water is flowing through it too slow.
<? Have never heard, seen such a thing...>
And there are efficiency issues with slower rate.
<Yes; to degrees (pun intended)>
If your flow rate exceeds recommendation it may damage the chiller as it overworks the chiller.
<Again, no... will just run continuously. Not problematical>
But if you had to choose one, it is better to have it over the recommended flow?
<Mmm, yes; to again, a degree... Ideally one wants to have "just enough" chiller (rated wise), and maybe a skosh for extra hot days, circumstances...>
Can you go into a little more details on the reasons not to over/under flow?
<There really is no reason, other than cost for having too large a unit (practically), space for it...>
I have a 55g with Eheim 2217 and am thinking of a 1/4hp chiller with obviously a lot more flow.
<Oh... no... a decent quality 1/4 HP will be more than enough... Look to the JBJ et al. better products/lines>
Is it going to be a problem? How do I minimize the issues with this kind of set up
<Will not be a problem, though you may find you'll want to run another pump, not use the Eheim canister to drive the water through the chiller. I would. Bob Fenner>
Re: chillers 5/10/13
Thanks.
Any specific reason on not using Eheim 2217 to drive the flow?
<The increased drag... magnetic drive pumps aren't engineered/designed for such. B>
Michael Shen

Re: baby goldfish 5/10/13
Bob,
Thanks so much for your interest in our pets well being!!
<Thank you for sharing!>
By the way, I would love to see photos of just hatched babies-
1)any photos out there?
<Ahh, I don't. Am sure you can find on the wider Net>
I don't have a macro lens to do it myself.
My hatchlings were inactive for about 24-48 hrs, so completely vulnerable!!
I am glad I brought them into a tank, from outside my 800 gallon fish
pond.
2) Last year I had a couple dozen goldfish babies and I did not move them out of the big pond and they all but one got eaten, by a visiting frog I think. The one I saved is 9 months old. I captured him in a crystal clear mug(drinking beer mug), so that I did not touch their fragile bodies.
3)When can I move him/her to the big pond. Yes we have winter here in Arkansas.
<Oh yes>
4)This year, I decided to get the eggs, since it is NOT good to net catch the babies, since this kills them.
<Mmm, do a bit more reading. Folks move the sticky fertilized eggs on spawning media>
I have about 20 hatchlings-babies in a 2
gallon tank, all healthy and active, 6 days old. With a giant magnifying glass, I have seen that They are eating algae. You said something about Rotifers? Sorry I'm an idiot what are they?
<Again, the search tool>
5)What is the proper gallon tank size for this many babies?
<As large as available>
Sincerely,
Barb K
Thanks again
<Welcome. BobF>

SWFMAS Reef Conference 5/10/13
Bob,
<Jeff>
We just wrapped up our 2013 conference and are planning our 2014 conference. We have already picked the location and set the date and I was wondering what your availability and fees would be for next year.
Conference will be in Fort Myers, Florida on April 12, 2014.
<Am open on the date (the MAX event is the week prior in OC); fee, whatever stipend/honorarium the club offers>
Please let me know as soon as you can. To see more about this years conference, please visit:
http://www.swfmas.com/forum/index.php?/forum/67-2013-reef-conference/
Thanks
Jeff
<Thank you for your efforts. Bob Fenner>

Of bristle worms and clams 5/10/13
Hello everyone. I have always seen bristle worms as the good guy as I have never seen one eat anything unless it was dead or dying.
<Mmm, well, there are many species... some much more predaceous than others>
I just got a Derasa clam yesterday. It is a beautiful clam and is doing well. It was even trying to attach today. Suddenly I saw a bristle worm poking around on the rock the Derasa was trying to attach to. It must have touched the clam's foot because it caused the clam to retract violently and it fell on its side. These are the garden variety bristle worms. They are not Eunicids or anything like that. Should I be worried? Thank you as always.

Re: Of bristle worms and clams 5/10/13
Thank you Bob for the heads up. Shortly after I wrote you I moved the clam onto some branch rock and it is in a position that should make getting into the byssal gland harder to reach. I will try to bait out the worms. Should not be too hard. I have been watching closely in the mean time.
<Real good James. Cheers, BobF>

Brightwell Aquatics AngeLixir Food Soak for Spongivorous Marine Fishes 5/7/13
Bob,
<Chris>
Have you ever heard of Brightwell Aquatics AngeLixir Food Soak for Spongivorous Marine Fishes?
<Only rumors>
Is it any good? I was thinking to buy it to try it out when feeding my fish. I was thinking it be the most beneficial for my angel fish.
Christopher
<Worth trying... http://brightwellaquatics.com/products/angelixir.php
I'd also consider growing my own sponges of use, buying them at (exotic) oriental food stores/sources (what I had Chris Turk do years ago for the Ocean Nutrition product). BobF>
Re: Brightwell Aquatics AngeLixir Food Soak for Spongivorous Marine Fishes
Bob, Can sponges be grown easily? 5/7/13
<Mmm, under "right" conditions, some can... See WWM re, including Tyree ref.>
Wouldn't my blue angel eat them before they even grow?
<Should be cultured elsewhere... moved only when "ready" to be consumed>
What kind of sponge would you recommend I buy from an Oriental Store?
Christopher
<Read on! B>
Question... Sponge culture, scientific searches 5/8/12
Robert,
When searching under *Non-Vertebrate Marine Life 1, Algae, LR, LS, Sponges***
I am only finding FAQS on sponges and no articles about growing them. Can you send me the hyperlink so I can begin reading how to grow them? Look forward to your reply.
Christopher
<... I'd peruse the Sponges FAQs files en toto. Perhaps starting w/ Systems:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/spongesysfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. You may well have to do a bit of reading outside the Net... see WWM re such searches.
BobF>

Re: Numerous medicinal treatments, fish still ill 5/8/12
Hello Neale,
Thank you to you and Bob for your responses. I really appreciate your time and expertise.
<Most welcome.>
This is where I am at; everyone is still alive (Honey Gourami, 2 albino Corys). I actually threw away the BioWheel to the filter about a month before emailing you last. I didn't know the wheel could contribute to nitrate production though.
<Pretty much any oxygen-using (aerobic) biological filter will add to nitrate production as time progresses. By their very nature, they convert ammonia to nitrite then to nitrate, but as they become more and more dirty, a whole other ecosystem develops inside the filter that adds further to this nitrate production. Provided you regularly clean a filter, this nitrate issue is, for most freshwater fish, irrelevant. Keep nitrate below 40-50 mg/l and you'll be fine; for more sensitive fish like Dwarf Cichlids, and you need to keep below 20 mg/l. Still not an onerous task compared to marines. I find stocking generously with floating plants (which absorb nitrate rapidly) is an easy way to manage nitrate.>
What happened was, I replaced the HOB for a short while with a Fluval U2 internal filter. I really liked the design but the current was too strong for the 10 gal tank.
<Current drops with time as the media becomes clogged, rarely a problem after a few days of use! Failing that, use a spray bar to spread out water flow, and also try directing the current at the glass or some big tall rock -- this will dissipate some of the energy.>
One time when the Gourami came up for food, I saw her slowly careen to the other side of the tank. Knowing that a high current could also be stressful, I decided to remove and return this filter and put the HOB back on, without the wheel since it was in the garbage at that point. I do not use the cartridges made for the filter. I put Fluval plain sponges in the box, and I also have AquaClear BioMax sitting on the bottom of the box (I don't know how efficient this set-up really is though. Before I used polyfiber and BioMax inside a media bag and I think that may have been better).
<Have you tried a plain vanilla sponge filter driven by an air pump? Something like the Interpet Airstream? Good value, and work well. Ideal for use with fish that dislike strong currents. Very easy to maintain, too.>
I have increased filtration since your email. I installed a Hydro Sponge Pro II. It's been in for 5 days and I installed it without an airstone. I wonder, should I still have an airstone installed separately for the Corys?
<No need if they aren't repeatedly and frequently diving up to the surface for air; Corydoras are facultative air breathers, and will gulp air if needs be, but otherwise aren't demanding in this regard.>
Also, will I be able to remove the HOB entirely and just rely on the sponge filter?
<In time, yes; I'd allow a 4-6 weeks "handover" so any new filter can be fully cycled.>
I've noticed that the water seems clearer; not that it was cloudy before, but there seems to be more clarity now. I've also considered removing the HOB and installing a second, maybe smaller, sponge filter, if you think that's a good plan? I'm not looking to purchase an external canister filter, but I would purchase a new HOB to use with the sponge filter or a new internal filter if you think that would be better. I need to do more research about filtration because I don't know what chemical filtration is.
<Ah, do read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/fwfiltrmedart.htm
In most cases, chemical filtration is not necessary.>
I believe biological means the good bacteria, but I wonder, do sponge filters provide for chemical filtration? Now on to water changes. Since I live in an apartment, I don't store water since I have limited space, but I will find a way to do this if you believe letting water sit is a better way to go.
<Or else, do frequent small water changes using freshly drawn water. Try this: do two 10% water changes a week, each time adding water conditioner and stirring well. I find this approach works fine.>
What I do now is this; I take temperate water from the tap, treat it with water conditioner, let in sit for 3-4 minutes, then add.
<Yes.>
Now that the nitrates have been under control, I am doing 25% weekly water changes. Do you think my procedures are okay?
<For sure.>
Also, I use Tetra AquaSafe Plus water conditioner, and I've recently been wondering if it's any good; any thoughts?
<Yes, a good product.>
It's hard to calculate the amount of conditioner to use for such small water volumes, and I realized that in the past I wasn't using enough, which I'm sure has confounded my problems, especially since there is a lot of chlorine in my city water.
<Within reason, water conditioner is forgiving, so don't be worried about overdosing. Any excess is quickly metabolised by the filter bacteria.>
Now I believe I am using the correct amounts (I use 3 drops for every quart of water). Also, according to my lease, I can't have a tank larger than 10 gal, so that's that for now. As far as their health; the Gourami now sits under the sponge filter. She eats and is probably 50% active, 50% sitting.
<What they do, especially as they age. Some become notoriously lazy!>
The 1 Cory, that only has a sliver of a fin left due to fin rot; he swims around, then stops for a bit and breathes hard. I thought maybe this was because of the extra effort it takes for him to swim, but of course I'm worried it could mean something tragic as well? I guess the fins can grow back, it'll just take a long time?
<Can do, but do look for potential fin-nippers that are preventing new growth. Ordinarily, they should have signs of fin growth within a week or two, and a whole new fin within a couple months.>
I feel bad for him, but he is getting food, so that's good at least, and what's left of his fin has remained constant. It seems the other Cory guides him a bit; maybe its my imagination, but he seems to be helping him out a little.
<Yes, are social.>
Oh, well he also has an eye problem; it's white on his eye. You can slightly see red from the actual eye. The white went away a little bit, but now what's left has remained constant.
<Damage to the cornea; again, look for signs of fighting, fin-nipping, etc that might be causing problems.>
That eye looks smaller too but maybe I'm mistaken; it's hard to tell.
<The eye itself shouldn't shrink.>
I'm not sure what is going on with the eye but I don't believe he can see out of it. I just figured with continued improved water quality, that maybe it would get better, but I really don't know. The other Cory is doing well. I guess that's it for right now. Thanks again! Your insight and help has been tremendous support!
-Lorie
<Good luck, Neale.>
Re: Numerous medicinal treatments, fish still ill- Missed Something! 5/8/12
Neale,
I was just re-reading my last email to you from April, and in that I stated the albino Cory had a front fin and a sliver left of the other front fin. Which means the fin rot has progressed! That front fin is now gone! It only has the sliver left and that is it. What was left of the tail is gone too. I thought once the nitrates were under control, the fin rot would stop. Should I do anything?
<If the Finrot is right down to the bone, the fin may never regenerate.>
I have a 2.5 gal tank that I can move him too, but of course medicines would be too hard to treat in that. Maybe move him there and try salt? Or just leave him alone?
<Unless you have a better idea, yes, leave him in the main tank. I'd medicate as per Finrot with something reliable, like Seachem ParaGuard or the ever popular Maracyn 1 and 2 combination.>
As a side note, I believe the medications were the actual cause of the Peppered Corys dying. I can't say I've ever successfully medicated my fish.
<Many reasons for why this might be the case. Do remember to remove carbon (otherwise the medicine is neutralised). Do dose as required, and use on the stated days. Do clean the tank before use if possible (more organic "gunk" in tank and filter will reduce efficacy). Do ensure aquarium is basically sound (zero ammonia, zero nitrite) else fish won't recover. Do use a trusted medication rather than tea-tree oil and other new-agey meds.>
I was wondering too, in your last email you mentioned aquarium sterilizer.
Is this an actual product you can purchase? Or did you mean something like peroxide?
<It's a device to minimise spread between tanks or between fish; typically UV and/or ozone. Not a cure, and not economical and/or practical for most home users.>
Well obviously the water is still not where it should be. Please advise.
Thank you, Lorie
<Hope this helps, Neale.>

Red gills and strange swimming? 5/8/12
Hello crew!
Before I get into my question, I'd just like to say that I love your website! I've used it a couple of times and I've always been able to solve any problems I had with your information. I'm really glad you guys are able to help answer our questions, so thank you! :)
<Thanks for the kind words.>
My question is about my angels and platies in my 30 gallon. I have a single 3" tall angelfish and four platies, three only being about an inch long and another full-grown 2" long sunset wag. The three younger platies are the newest additions, just got them about two weeks ago, while I've had the older platy for several months and the angel about two years. I recently did a water change, close to 50% like most of my water changes. All other times my fish would have been fine, but soon after the water change all of my fish started acting strangely. Ever since I added the three new platies, their gills have been slightly pink and I figured it was just from being moved into a new setting. After the water change, though, their gills
became very dark red.
<Does sound like a reaction to the water changes, possibly the water conditioner isn't working (or given enough time to work). Perhaps the water conditioner isn't adequate (make sure it treats chlorine, chloramine, ammonia and copper). Try this: do smaller, but more frequent water changes.
Instead of a 50% water change, do 25% per week, or better still, 10-15% twice a week. Moderate feeding to keep nitrate levels down. Stock moderately (though it sounds like your tank is moderately stocked to be honest, one Angel and a handful of Platies). If smaller water changes elicit less of a reaction, then there's your answer. Check the tap water and water conditioner, and act accordingly.>
Of course one of the platies is black, so I could not see but I figured like the others, it was in the same condition. They all began this strange, spastic swimming pattern, where they'd dart around the plants and up and down the sides of the tank My older platy and my angelfish were also acting the same way. Even when my tank was at its worst condition, the angelfish
was always the one to show no signs of illness out of all the other fish.
So when she went from perfectly fine to darting around and gulping air like a drowning man, it was more than just a little concerning!
Right now, my water parameters are:
Ammonia- .2 ppm
<<Trouble w/ a capital "T". RMF>> 5/9/12
Nitrate- 0ppm
Nitrite- (unknown, ran out of chemicals for testing last week)
Ph- 7.6 or higher
<<Causing/indicating the ammonia to be MUCH more toxic. RMF>>
For some reason, my ph is unusually high. The scale stops at 7.6 with my test kit and the readings say the Ph is at 7.6, but I cannot tell if it really is 7.6 or if it is higher. I'm trying to find a way to slowly drop the Ph to a more ideal level, like 7.2 or 7.0.
The fish are doing a lot better than they were on Monday, the second day after the water change. Their gills are still really red but the angel and three of the four platies have all started to act a little more normal, not gulping air or darting around.
Could it be the Ph that's causing the problem? If it is, then how should I be lowering it? I've tried to use "Correct Ph" tabs recently but they have little to no effect in lowering the Ph. Any suggestions?
<<...? Don't think Neale saw this part of your email; so am jumping in here. Do read:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/pHAlkAdjF.htm
You NEED to eliminate all measurable level of free ammonia, AND assure the pH is more neutral, stable. I would hold off on ALL foods/feeding till this is accomplished. Bob Fenner>>
Thank you for taking the time to read my email!
-Jenny
<Hope this helps, Neale.>

Wrasse Compatibility – 05/09/13
Hello Crew,
Rich here.
<<Hiya Rich>>
I have a 180 FOWLR with a 40 gallon sump that is about two months old. I only have 6 green Chromis in it right now. Long term stocking plan is either: three of four butterflies with a dwarf angel, or a couple tangs with a larger angel, i.e. emperor or blue girdled. Before these fish get added, I wanted to add a few wrasses. Would the following wrasses be compatible?
Clown Fairy, Cirrhilabrus solorensis
Melanurus, Halichoeres melanurus
Christmas, Halichoeres ornatissimus
Vroliki, Halichoeres chrysotaenia
<<These wrasses should be fine in this volume. In my experience the Halichoeres species play well together, and with others. The single Cirrhilabrus should also not be an issue. Do make sure you have several inches (2+) of fine substrate in the display before adding these fish…this is a “must” for their continued well being>>
If so, should they be added one at a time or all together?
<<”Together” is always best but not critical here>>
Thank you for your advice.
<<Happy to share… EricR>>

Power outage/filter media 5/9/12
Hello. My neighborhood is currently experiencing a power outage and it is projected to be restored in 3 hours. Will this negatively affect the beneficial bacteria in my filters (HOB and sponge filter)?
<You should be fine here. It's the sealed container type filters (canister, cartridge e.g.) that can pose anaerobic products issues; not open to the water types>
I'm at work so I can't do anything now, but if there will be an impact, what should I do?
<Nothing>
Thank you, Lorie
<Cheers, Bob Fenner>

baby goldfish 5/9/12
Dear Crew,
I have recently brought inside into a 2 gallon tank, some eggs from my goldfish outside pond. I know very little about baby goldfish. I tried to buy a book on them and they were all sold out at the pet stores.
They were born about 4 days ago-so incredibly tiny & vulnerable - I don't know how any of them live. I have an air driven filter but I took out the filter so the babies can have plenty of algae to eat.
<... not all types of algae are useful...>
1)Should I put the filter back in to keep the wastes down?
<Yes...>
2)Do they need food besides algae?
<... Rotifers, other life are cultured (ahead of time) by many folks; others use commercial dried and liquid foods>
3)How old are they when they turn orange?
<A few months usually>
I have a baby from last year he is 9 months old and he has not colored yet.
<Some individuals never color up>
He is alone and I was wondering if I can get a beta in the same tank or 4)should I only keep goldfish with goldfish?
<No... see WWM re... in fact start reading here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshreprofaqs.htm
and here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/pdfshbreefaqs.htm
Bob Fenner>
Sincerely,
Barb K.

Re: Worm identification 5/7/13
Thanks Bob for quick reply. For sure this tiny creature is not a sipunculid.
<Mmm, well... could well be some other worm group... as you state/d, perhaps an Annelid, Oligochaete species... I've just never seen such in freshwater, ponds or otherwise>
Well, I will check the others section of the forum as I also have several marine creatures for ID!
<Ahhh! Good hunting and thank you for sharing. BobF>

Re: Help Needed!! Comm. alg. control... new eBook announcement 5/8/13
Thank you very much for your reply and your thoughts.
Unfortunately is not possible to install a sump at this tank. (no space at all)
<Maybe large canister filters then?>
Any idea what kind of algae are those?? I tried to match them with some other photos from WWM but with no success.
<Have to look through a microscope... could be some sort/species of filamentous green (Chlorophyte) or even a BGA (Cyanophyte), or...?
Algae/Thallophytes and the Monerans that are Blue-Greens are classed at the Division level on the bases of their gross micro-morphology, storage foods, photosynthetic pigments... see the Net or works on Phycology/Algology re.
Am writing an e-book re presently>
Best regards
Kostas
<And you, Bob Fenner>

BTA... hlth., no info. or rdg. 5/8/13
I have a pink BTA and noticed today that some of its tips look like they were cut off.
<?!>
The very end of the tips are broken open. What would cause this?
<Mal-interaction w/ another Cnidarian likely; perhaps some chemical/physical anomaly... What else is in the system? What re water quality tests?... Where's your data? Bob Fenner>
Is it being eaten by something in my tank or is it a sickness that causes this?

Pentacta anceps, pink Cuke... Reading 5/8/13
Whatsup guys?! So a few weeks I acquired one of these. He looked very healthy in the store. His feeders were out and he was plump. So he would always have his feeders out for the first week or two in my tank. Though, now, he rarely extends his feeders all the way. When I put food in the water (live phyto, frozen phyto, oyster eggs, and the leftover juice from the fishes' frozen meal), he opens part way, but rarely all the way. And he closes up soon after. I feed live phyto daily (Nannochloropsis and Tetraselmis),
<... for what reason/s? Of no use as food to this animal>
and oyster eggs every other day. So I hope he's not starving. Is this behavior normal?
<Not normal to be closed much of the time>
And I have not seen anything pick on him, except the cleaner shrimp who bothers the cucumber when he goes to clean him. Thoughts? Thanks.
Connor
<.... water quality issue likely... some aspect/s out of whack... No data proffered re... Time for you to read through all that's posted on WWM re Holothuroids. See you, Bob Fenner>

Re: Stocking list , opinions please? Crypt concession 5/8/13
Hi Crew,
Just as a follow up for the collective experience value: with all the combined measures taken (UV, Quinine, Sulfates, substrate rotation, hyposalinity, Metronidazole, Formalin/Meth Blue/FW dips etc.)
this tang "appeared" to be cured after 4 -5 months of yo-yo treatment in quarantine, only to die in the display about two weeks later of Ich. This brings my total number of fish saved over the last ten years from Ich and Velvet, to an impressive zero. I think the next fish I get with Ich will be quietly put down to save it and me the pain... I officially give up on Ich treatment.
Thanks for all the help regardless.
Cheers,
Rama
<Yeeikes... Might be time to "go back to zero": Bleach the tank, all its contents and water-touching gear; start w/ fishes from a known, starting-healthy state... run through quarantine, dips/baths, do your best to maintain an optimized, stable environment. Bob Fenner>

"Magic Blue" by Biotec 5/8/13
Hi Crew,
On a completely different note, have you ever heard or experienced a product called "Magic Blue" by Biotec?
<Am familiar w/ other dyes like this. Our old company's AquaTech division made such agents for pond, lake and fountains>
It is an "inert" Blue water colourant (not MethB) intended to inhibit Algae growth. I have tried it previously with some success and no observable effects on fish and corals...
<... I wouldn't put these dyes (though chemically inert; their mode of action is light-diffraction) in aquariums>
that I could spot, but always felt uneasy using it.
I'm considering trying it again in my ongoing battle with hair algae
<... Look to nutrient limiting methods, exclusion... predators, competitors... These, this is all gone over and over on WWM, though I am writing an e-book on marine algae, control presently... As I see the need/market>
which I am currently losing (all usual causes attacked such as phosphates, nutrients, salinity) possibly due to the spectra of some new Marine-Glo T5's. I'm a bit reluctant to use it again as I have found literally no-one else on the interweb with a comment on it!
I also have Marine Algae-fix
<...>
which does work a treat, but in my experience causes a competitive imbalance between the various Algae species after treatment (i.e. it will kill whatever dominant Algae is present, say Bryopsis , but open the way for takeover by BGA , or diatoms etc. soon after treatment , which will proliferate readily in the absence of the former competitor).
<... yes>
Any thoughts?
<The reading, consideration of adding sump/refugium, RDP, DSB... BobF>
cheers,
Rama

FW, reading 5/6/13
Hello again.. i have another question to ask.. ok like i said i have a 500 gallon freshwater fish tank.. Ok well i have added sand to my tank bout 10 days ago. So at first it was really cloudy but it settled but now it still has a touch of cloudiness to it... So would you have an idea what could be causing this . My pump is a 2000 gallon a hr.. so i know my pump are good ones for the size of my tank.. Thank You for your time again...
<Could be a few things; but most likely particulates and/or incomplete recycling....
Please follow directions: Search, read on WWM ahead of writing us... Start here this time:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/cloudywaterfw.htm
BobF>

Re: PH water chemistry question 5/6/13
Thanks again for your reply! I really appreciated the tip on water sprite
:)
Donetta
<Glad to help. Cheers, Neale.>

Red bubble algae? 5/6/13
Is this red bubble algae?
<Nope. Appears to be Cyanobacteria aka blue/green algae>
I'm having difficulty identifying it. I also have a small patch of green of the same looking algae on a different rock. Is it bad? If so, what can I do to get rid of it? Any little creatures eat it?
<Read more here-- http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cyanocontrolfaqs.htm >
Thanks for all your help!!!!
<Quite welcome.>
Sent from my iPhone
<Sent from Jordan's laptop.>

Red Eared Slider, hlth. 5/7/13
Hello there, Crew!
<Hiya! Darrel here>
I have a few questions about a Red Eared Slider I got for my daughter about 3 weeks ago. She is roughly 4 inches, in a 30 gallon tank for the moment, and getting moved to a 75 gallon tank as soon as the table I ordered for the tank comes in next week. She has river rocks on the bottom, a floating basking dock, and a basking log. I have both a heat/VitA bulb and a VitB bulb in Zilla 8.5inch domes for her.
<I'm not sure what bulbs those are, so I'm guessing you mean any time of heat emitting incandescent bulb and a specific UV-B bulb as well>
She has a Fluval U4 filter and we do a 50-75% water change once a week and 100% water change the other day the tank gets cleaned.
<That's more than she needs - but it sure is clean. Just make sure you don't burn yourself out with chores.>
She is also taken outside for real sunshine when the sunny South Carolina weather permits for short periods.
<A word to the wise here. Turtles are slow and ponderous creatures … until we let them out of our sight for over 10 seconds. Then they seem to sprint, jump and fly. Seriously, they can be extraordinarily fast when they want to be -- and they are remarkable fence climbers!>
She feeds mostly on the ReptoMin floating sticks or the All Living Things floating sticks, with the occasional dried shrimp, romaine, tuna, or dandelions. I have a few aquatic plants in her tank with her that I can't remember the name of right now, but she thoroughly enjoys playing in them and making a mess with them. She is just as active as ever, her eyes are bright and wide open, and doesn't eat much, but eats as much as when we brought her home so her appetite has not changed. Now that I think you have all the background info and the specifics, here are my concerns:
<OK>
Roughly a week ago the skin on the top of her head and neck turned a very light pink color. The skin there seems to be getting darker, but the skin also appears to be a different texture now. The color has also not returned completely to normal and poor Lily, the RES, doesn't have red ears!
<The skin on her head looks pretty normal -- their skin color darkens as they get older. The only thing from the texture is that she looks a little sun-burned. Back up the heat lamp a few inches perhaps?>
I have also noticed a spot on her shell that has flaked off and appears white underneath. The spot is not soft and has no odor to it, but does not seem to be in a logical place for her to begin shedding her scutes (sp?).
<That looks almost like mechanical damage -- meaning that she chipped or scraped it on something. Is that possible? In any case, it's not to worry as long as it's the one small area.>
Am I doing something wrong?
<It doesn't seem like anything is wrong>
Is this a simple, easy fix or do I need to get her to the vet pronto?
<No vet at this point. As long as she hauls out to bask long enough for her shell to get completely DRY from time to time, I wouldn't worry about the damaged scute -- let's just watch to see that it doesn't spread.>
I've attached pictures, and please let me know if you need any additional information! I appreciate any and all help!
Sarah
<Sarah - I think you're being a great turtle mom. Lily looks healthy (AND BIG!) in the pictures, her coloration is right about what I'd expect for someone her size … so as long as the skin changes and the shell damage don't spread and as long as she's bright, active and eating, my best advice is keep doing what you're doing and just worry a little less!>

Spot on my Res 5/7/13
Hi guys!
<Hiya Lauryn!! Darrel here>
I just recently purchased a Red Eared Slider who is about an inch and a half in length. I've noticed his shell is a little soft so he is definitely gonna get more sunlight from now on!!
<UV-B lighting is required>
His tank is a 40 gallon with a filter and a heat lamp and dock.
<Read here, Lauryn. It's all you need to know about giving little Nirkus a good home: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm >
Though I noticed a strange dot on him. Can you tell me what this is?
<Yep - that little numb is what's left of his umbilicus -- that is the dried remains of what was once an egg sac that hung underneath and fed him all the time he was in the egg. If will dry up and either fall of or wear off as he gets older. No worries>
Thank you so very much!
Lauryn

Worm identification, pond... 5/7/13
Hello WWM,
I arrived here through this page http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/fwwormidf.htm , it seems a forum for freshwater worm ID
<Mmm, well, the "fw" stands for Freshwater... but we have/there are other "subwebs" on the site (WWM) with other guides, input re many other worms>
but I didn't found the way to register in it, only a standard contact by email.
So I send you this email for see if you can help me in the ID of these creatures. Firs one (two photos) are an annelid (probably) of about 10-12 mm long, that appeared in my garden pond in NE Spain.
<... these look like Sipunculids, Peanut Worms... in freshwater?>
The pond is completely quiet and the water is a bit alkaline. The ground of the pond is covered with some decomposed detritus, and the worm seems to have constructed a species of soft "coach" with it, to cover itself.
The second one is a small leech found in Ebro river in NE Spain. Totally stretched it measures about 2 cm long.
<Does look like a Hirudinean>
Any help in identification is welcome. Thanks!
<Can't help you w/ any further, more detailed identification... You might contact local universities with biology departments, to ask around re specialists in worm taxonomy. Bob Fenner>

Angel Fish Questions... stkg./sel. and by species 5/7/13
Hello WWM Crew,
<Howdy>
I have a 210 gallon reef with 9 damsels, 1 Flame angel, 1 Hippo Tang, 1 Purple tang, 1 Fox Face and 1 Mandarin fish. Last weekend I added some angel fish and I would like to know if it is a disaster waiting to happen. I added 2 Flame angels, one Lemon peel and a 4" Majestic.
<Yikes! Well, the system is perhaps large enough to accommodate the Flame trio... if they're all small size (a few inches) now... The Majestic is hard to keep from most collecting areas... the better hail from Bali... Do make sure yours is getting food>
I was told the last one was reef safe.
<Mmm, not really; unless the system is huge>
The first day, all the flames start fighting but now after 3 days they seem to co-exist with each other well. They learn to stay away from each other and I rarely see any fighting other than some mild chasings every now and then. The Majestic is really shy and comes out every now and then. I am not sure if it is eating or not. My tank has clams, hammerheads, frog spawn, toadstool, Galaxea, flowerpot, mushrooms, and few hard corals. Do you think eventually the Majestic will come out and mingle with the rest?
<It most likely will perish. See WWM re the genus, species>
Did I make a mistake in my stocking?
<Again; likely so>
The water chemistry is always within normal limits. I thank you for your reply.
<Read on! Bob Fenner>
Re: Angel Fish Questions
Thank you for your replies. I at times wonder why retailers keep selling these expensive fish with dismay records.
<Good question; and one I've pondered long and hard.... Tis number one because they sell... other elements; their beauty and grace, that these are historically, perpetually species collected (yes); their relative abundance, ease of capture... Still, as you hint/suggest... On the plus side is the idea that folks WILL learn how to successfully husband them>
I wish I have done better research before I plucked down 150 bucks for the Majestic. I however keep seeing Majestic thriving on YouTube videos so maybe there is hope??? Thank you and I am a fan of your book!!!
<Ahh! There is always hope. Thank you, BobF>

Re: Should I Reintroduce? 5/5/13
Dr. Monks,
<Dawn,>
Thank you again and again for the insight. :) I don't have access to a lot of knowledgeable aquarists around here, so I really appreciate your help with all of my little miscellaneous questions. I caught the young male in an observation cup the day you sent your reply and to my surprise, his caudal was almost completely regrown already! I introduced him at lights out that night and so far, so good. :)
<Good news.>
Thanks for the info on the Rams. I have heard they can be quite delicate in comparison to some other dwarf cichlids. I think I'm going to set up a dedicated tank for them, as I'd really like to try my hand at keeping these lovely creatures.
<For sure worth keeping. Farmed stock is pretty poor on the whole, but there are exceptions, and home-bred stuff can be excellent. Do contact your local or national forum (many have online forums) if you have trouble
getting stuff other than the mostly rubbish Southeast Asian stuff.>
I do really like some Apistogramma species too, so maybe I'll take a trip into the next state sometime - they sadly don't carry them at any of the local places.
<Again, contact local/national cichlid association for tips.>
Well, I think I'll stop saying "just one last question" because they seem to keep popping up! I hope it's alright! It's a quick one though: I have a faux aquarium ornament that strikingly resembles bogwood that I'd like to add to my Guppy aquarium, but am unsure if it's wise to do, since this particular ornament was in my 20 gallon during the Ich outbreak two months ago. I have since sanitized it, of course, and ever since I removed it it's just been sitting out of water unused. What do you think? Any precautions I should take?
<Sit the think in a dilute (just smellable) bleach solution, then rinse many times, and leave to air dry. Should be good to go.>
Given that the life cycle of Ich is only a few days without a host, it *seems* as though it would be alright,
<For sure. That's why leaving a tank fallow (fish-less) for a month should kill off all Whitespot parasites.>
but I'd like an expert's opinion before I plop it in with my healthy fish.
Thank you for donating your time to this great site, and those of us who value your input. :)
Regards,
Dawn
<Most welcome, Neale.>

Vibrio vulnificus and palytoxin. Warning, and question re possible acuity interaction 5/5/13
Hi all. in last 4 months i had several problems with palytoxin ( 2 times ended up to ER), all times by contact with intact skin (hands, forearms)First time i removed the most recent Palythoa colony from the tank, then sent it to a lab , resulting in strong presence of palytoxin and Vibrio vulnificus.
<Aye ya!>
After 2 months, as soon as i clean my tank i felt very bad and went to ER again with severe symptoms including chills, muscle and joint pains, very low pressure and high level of CPK (rhabdomyolysis), all symptoms that confirm palytoxin poisoning.
<Yes>
So i removed the old Palythoa colony (in 10 years they never gave me a problem , even while fragmenting, brushing, dipping in h2o2 for zoapox), sent it to the lab and resulting venomous as well and infected by Vibrio vulnificus. My questions are:- maybe this Vibrio turned my normal Palys in a killer ones?
<Mmm, don't know>
- after removing all Palys, is there a risk that other kind of corals become venomous?
<Also; but I strongly doubt it/this>
- how can i remove Vibrio vulnificus from the tank? (high salinity? h202?
competing bacteria? Lourdes water?)Thanks and sorry for my bad English, I'm Italian. Manuel Ricci
<... I'd keep my bare hands out (wear arm length gloves, use tools) and use ozone to raise, sustain ORP; keep gravel vacuuming, changing good volumes of water weekly (25% or so). Bob Fenner>

Can I remove too much PO4 from my marine aquarium? 5/5/13
Hello:
<David>
It has been several years since I last felt the need ask a question, which I think is a good thing. I have a 35 gallon tall marine aquarium with a pair of reidi seahorses ( I will soon be adding another pair), 1 mandarin (I would like to add an opposite sex mandarin), 2 turbans and 3 Strombus alatus. These critters have been in the tank for a long time. I also have a variety of live rock with star polyps, mushroom polyps, and Kenya tree coral. There is a healthy (to my sense anyway) mix of calcareous algae and Bryopsis on some of the live rock. At least I think it's Bryopsis. It is a dark green short tough filament. I also get a very very light build up of diatoms on the tank sides which the turbans seem to like. I clean it off once a week or so.
I have a Remora hang on protein skimmer, a PhosBan 150 reactor
<Unnecessary>
and a Penguin 250 bio wheel. I use the activated carbon filters in the bio wheel. I have no other water movement because of the seahorses. I use Instant Ocean Reef Crystals mixed with RO water and I use straight RO water to top off. I also have a Coralife fixture with a 10k daylight and an actinic blue light. I change the bulbs once a year.
Finally, my water is, with very rare occasions, crystal clear. Specific gravity is 1.024, dKH is 7.8 and calcium is 350 ppm. There are no measurable nitrites or nitrates. I am religious about water changes and my chemistry is very stable at these readings. My question is phosphates, they also always measure 0 or at least below 0.03 ppm. (For alkalinity, calcium and phosphate, I use Salifert test kits and use the higher sensitivity procedures.)
Can I have too little phosphate?
<Is possible, yes... the soft coral (Kenya) needs some as a chemosynthate, and your snails need such indirectly in the algae they eat>
Do I really have little or no phosphate?
<Likely little in solution; most all is "bound up" in the life in your system, and/or insolubilized (precipitated) and not likely at all to become available/measurable in solution again>
I know there must be some in the tank but it is not measurable. I recently added some Palythoas and a couple of different button polyps
<Do take care w/ these... toxic Zoanthids... to you, your other livestock if stressed, mis/handled>
each on fragments that I would like to train to the live rock. My goal is to create a rock wall up one side of the tank with soft corals. (These would be secured to PVC pipe with zip ties.) I know this will take a long time but I've read on WetWebMedia that too little PO4 is bad for corals. At one time, I had a very healthy growth of Halimeda but it suddenly died off and I replaced it with the star polyp.
Is there anything I should be doing do to successfully grow the soft corals?
<Not likely, no... "just" feeding your fishes will add sufficient HPO4 for all here... I would ditch the reactor as mentioned>
The tank is 24 inches tall and I know less light reaches the bottom. But the star polyps have done well for over a year. Is the lighting sufficient?
<Obviously>
I'd prefer not to spend a lot of money on halogens.

Thanks for such a great site!
<Thank you. Bob Fenner>
- David
Re: Can I remove too much PO4 from my marine aquarium? 5/5/13
Thank you sir! Thank you very much.
<Ahh! Welcome. BobF>

Marine Ich, reading 5/5/13
Hi there, I am currently treating all my fish in a quarantine tank for Ich. I have a ten gallon tank and am treating with Cupramine at .5 mg/L We have kept them in for four weeks now until all spots disappeared. Now, about four days ago I noticed a white spot on my Trigger's side and two small ones around his mouth. My clown also seems to have two spots on him.
I read that the treatment should be done for two weeks but then why would they have new spots on them after being treated this long?
<Mmm, well, the first explanation is that what you see, these spots, may not be Cryptocaryon. Do you have a 'scope?>
I understand the stages of Ich and read that they can only susceptible to copper when free floating, so shouldn't they have all been killed off the first time they detached from the fish?
<Should...>
I am using Seachem MultiTest Copper test kit and do add copper with every water change. I do a 2 percent water change everyday to help keep the tank clean.
<More than two percent.>
We just changed our thermometer to a Fluval Digital one since our other one didn't seem to keep our temp as constant as we wanted it to. Thank your for your help
<... See WWM re Crypt, copper use... Much to discuss here. Bob Fenner>
Re: Marine Ich... still 5/6/13
Hi there, I do not have a scope,
<... then you can't really be very/that sure of what you have... these spots here. They could be mucus accumulations from the copper exposure for instance>
and I meant that I do a 20 percent water change every day with added copper to help maintain level at .5You had mentioned that it might not be Ich, what else do you think the spots could be?
<.... you were referred to read. WWM is not a bb>
It seems like the trigger has two clearer spots around his mouth area. I was told today to bump up the temp to 83 and that would kill off fungal and parasitic diseases.
<No. Ignorant>
It has been at 80 until now. I have had main tank empty for four weeks now. I left my Spotted Mandarin in there though. I was told that they are not as susceptible to Ich because they have a thicker slime coat. Since he eats the pods, I didn't think I could keep him alive in the quarantine. It seems like my pod numbers are growing fast, and I don't know if I am sure on this but I have an SPS coral (maybe a Cats Claw?) which we think the pods are feasting on. His skin is receding from some of the tips and around the base. It's not happening at a fast rate but not getting better.
Any advice on this problem? All the other coral seem to be okay. We do a 20 percent water change weekly with good quality salt and RODI water. I've got a carbon/phosphate reactor and a good size protein skimmer. I add trace minerals to the water.
<... for what reasons? Don't add anything you can't, won't test for>
How much longer should the fish be kept in the copper before adding back to the main tank and when do you think the Ich has died off in the main tank? Thank you for your help
<... read on. B>

Hair algae battle. fish gone haywire 5/6/13
Hello Crew,
<Hiya Dave. Nate here>
Hope all is well your way. I have some questions about a major hair algae outbreak. I'll start with some history. The tank is 75 gallons. The inhabitants are a banded sleeper goby (Amblygobius phalaena), Tailspot blenny (Ecsenius stigmatura), royal gramma, solon fairy wrasse(Cirrhilabrus solorensis) and a melanurus wrasse (Halichoeres melanurus). I had been running a Remora pro but was unhappy with the results(not the fault of the skimmer, just too big of a tank and to big of fish) and an large CPR Aquafuge. I also have 90-100 lbs of rock and 3 inches of sand(that I think has become a nutrient sink).
<What particle size?>
For circulation I have a Vortech MP40 that I run on either reef crest mode or nutrient export. The lighting is 4 T5s with 4 month old bulbs.
<Photoperiod?>
I have plans to upgrade to a 90 gallon soon, but its not soon enough as the outbreak has become a real eye sore. Plus I feel that it may be adversely affecting my fish. Normal parameters are 0 on nitrite and ammonia. PH usually is around 8.0-8.1 as best as I can read on a Seachem test. **Nitrates and phosphates barely register though I am sure they are there.
<Well said>
I've done a lot of reading and tried different things like adding Phosban and carbon reactors. I have started another plan and would like any thought and advice you would care to give:
<How about a clean up crew?>
Step 1. I have added a 10 gallon tank as a sump with an Eshopps U-tube overflow( I am terrified of this, but until I can get my drilled tank started this seems like the only solution). I know the 10 gallon is small, but it was all I could get to fit in my stand. I use an Eheim 1262 with a gate valve for a return.
Step 2. Added an AquaC EV-180 with another Eheim 1262 pump plumped externally.
Step 3. Added a 10 gallon trash that receives water from a pump in the sump and returns it to the sump.
Step 4. This is where I need help. My first move was to manually remove the large clumps of hair algae. I pulled several rocks from the tank and scrubbed them as well as possible, and placed them in the trash can where they will not receive light. My thinking here is that the lack of light will choke off the algae and I can begin moving the rock in and out of this area as the larger skimmer gets control of the nutrients. Is there any value in this or would I be better off just using this area as a remote DSB to help with nitrates?
<I wouldn't go with the DSB until you have other things under control. Put those resources into an urchin or 3, several turbo snails, Trochus, a small army of blue leggers, Nassarius snails (XL), Cerith snails. All very useful cleaners. Let them do their job slowly over time. Once the algae is under control start to pull out an urchin or two and the Turbos. Bring them back to the LFS for some credit.>
Also, earlier I said the fish had been acting up. The Halichoeres has suddenly been a lot jumpier for lack of better word. He is about 4-5" and usually just cruises the rocks picking at them when he sees something he likes. Over the last few weeks, he has begun hiding and darting around the tank more. He ate my large cleaner shrimp, which he had never showed even a passing interest in (though I always knew there was a possibility).
<Ah yes, I'd forgotten you had that little bugger.>
I attribute the attack to the reduced feedings I've implemented to help the algae problem, but he has also become more boisterous with the other tank mates. Could the water quality be affecting him, or should I increase the feedings again?
<Continue to at least feed daily>
Sorry about the length of this. Thank you for the continued help I have received from you over the years. It has been greatly appreciated by me and all my friends who have asked me to help them set up tanks after seeing mine.
<Is it a true fish only system? Although by putting the rock into the 10g trash can may eradicate the algae off of those particular rocks. Its dissolution is feeding the rest of the algae in addition to being pulled out by the skimmer. Run your skimmer thin for several weeks. Hair algae is no doubt a lot of work to get rid of. I've found that the easiest/best way to get rid of it is with a substantial clean up crew and lots of water changes. But you must also address what gave the algae a foothold in the first place. Hope that helped. -NateG>
-Dave
Re: Hair algae battle. fish gone haywire 5/6/13
Nate,
Thanks for the quick response. To answer your questions and provide a little more info:
The sand is mostly sugar fine with a cap of larger grain to prevent a sandstorm.
<A nice blend you have there>
Unfortunately, the goby and some snails took care of mixing that for me.
<haha yup. Looks more natural that way right? :)>
The photo period is 12 hours with a reverse period on the fuge.
There is some coral in the tank, but it is just pulsing xenia. Also the rocks have a healthy coralline coat on them.
<Cut the display down to 6 hrs. Do you have the stock power compact light on the AquaFuge? Up that cycle as well>
My cleanup crew is 3-5 Turbos. One of them was even involved in the scrubbing the other night as it too had become overgrown. I have an several Nassarius snails, 6-10 Cerith, a few Astrea and Trochus, and a few Nerites. I gave up keeping track because I find a shell every once in awhile from Halichoeres helping himself to a snack.
<Right...try and keep track anyways. Right now in particular. Turbo snails are incredible algae eaters. A nice big handful of them will save you a lot of time and energy. But all will starve afterwards when the algae pop can only support a few. So what is your goal for the tank? Mixed reef? Fish only? That wrasse really doesn't belong with reef inverts. Gorgeous fish but be conscientious my friend>
I use R.O. water I get from the grocery store machines. I don't think it is exactly 0 TDS. It was in the 20s last I checked it I think.
<Ook. That be a game changer haha. The "Purified Drinking Water" sold by the gallon at Wal-Mart isn't the cheapest way of going about this, but it tests much much closer to zero. There is really no way of telling what that reading of 20 consists of (without doing costly mail out tests). With all of the variables in play. Good RODI water is an easy fix>
What kind of urchins would you recommend? I had always held off of those because I was worried about the nitrates and wasn't sure if any of my fish would harass them(I'm sure by now you know which fish I was concerned about.)
<Tuxedo Urchin (Mespilia globulus) is a personal favorite>
Would a sand sifting star or a brittle star be of any use?

I have always been concerned that a brittle or serpent star could become dangerous to the fish.
<Brittle=danger, serpent="peaceful". You may occasionally come across a particularly aggressive serpent star like any other critter that can go in a reef>
What about a Rabbitfish? I had seen Siganus doliatus recommended for 90s on this site before, but hesitant to throw another fish into this mix with the wrasse acting up the way he is. Also, when you say run the skimmer thin, can I assume you mean very wet and keep up with top offs?
<Yep. You only have the one coral. At this point rip out as much as you can>
Oh and I forgot to mention another reason for the trash can fuge was to provide a safe haven for peppermint shrimp while attacking the Aiptasia that has gotten hold on some of those rocks as well.
<Ah. Yeah I would put using 0 TDS RODI as your top priority. Take a look at getting yourself a solid RODI unit and perhaps an ATO down the line. They are invaluable. -NateG>
Thanks again,
Dave
Re: Hair algae battle. fish gone haywire 5/6/13
Nate,
I had meant it to be a mixed reef when I upgrade.
<Very cool>
I did do a lot of research about the melanurus wrasse and found most people had few problems
and even recommended them for reefs because they were excellent pest controllers.
<Yeah but ate your shrimp...I don't like him>
Unfortunately, I may have gotten one of the more rowdy ones.
For the first year+ it's been a model citizen. With luck it will calm down again with more frequent feedings, otherwise I'll look to remove it. I'll look into getting my R.O. unit going. I had leak troubles and haven't had time to address it so it's sitting in my garage.
<What model is it? What kind of a leak? Where from?>
Oh and one last weird question/observation. My solon fairy wrasse swam in the powerhead current and rolled over and righted himself in less than a second and just kept swimming like nothing happened. Is it normal for a fish to do a barrel roll? I know I've never seen it. Thanks you for all the advice, it is truly appreciated.
<This is in front of your MP40 or other powerhead? Either way I wouldn't worry too much about it, the powerhead has pretty unnatural flow when sitting right in front of it so its not unexpected for the wrasse to behave abnormally -NateG>
Dave

Re: Black Skirted Tetra can't eat 5/6/13
Hey! Thank you so much for responding to me! I treated the tank for fungus and it helped my tetra. He is swimming around, happy and eating well. He looks shiny and colorful.
I'm so relieved that s/he is OK! I'm truly grateful for your advise.... And so are my fish:)
Best!
Reese
<Hi Reese. So glad things turned out so well! You must be doing a good job!
Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Unknown animal in my reef tank. Vermes, Crust.? 5/4/13
If those are full size than I have something else I saw a couple that would qualify for 3/4" size range. And even if that is the trick of the light
Than what are those crazy squiggly things floating in my tank? I saw some more last night. Baby blue color aimed to be dominating this time. But still had other colors too. Are those worms?
<Might be Mysids>
That's a video of those guys.
And yes I'm acting like a chick with eggs. It is first reef tank and I don't want to screw it up.
Thanks for all the help.
<Not to worry. Most all in/on reefs is innocuous. B>

Re: Hi, my guppy is starving, what do I do, I think he is going to die? 5/4/13
Hi again Neale
<G'day Sarah,>
Yes I heard it is fairly weak in terms of a medication so I picked up some tetracycline today and some stress zyme in-case it puts my tank back into cycling. I also have prime to protect the fish from the ammonia if it does cycle again. I also have some stress coat too. Would that help to clear it up, should I dose it right now?
<I'd be leery of overmedicating. Do remember any/all medications tend to be poisons at some level (it's the dose that differentiates between "beneficial" and "lethal") and the interactions between any two medications is virtually never tested, so what happens when you mix medications is unpredictable. If a fish is basically okay, feeding and responding to the medication you're using, I'd recommend finishing off that course of medication (as described by the manufacturer) before switching to another course of medications, and even then, I'd wait a few days between them to see if the fish is recovering under its own steam anyway. With all this said, Tetracycline is an antibiotic and should be tolerably safe, though its effects on the filter bacteria may be undesirable (it does, after all, kill bacteria) and Stress Coat is pretty mild stuff, not really a medication so much as "ointment" for fish like you'd rub onto a child's cut or graze, and about as useful (i.e., you wouldn't use an ointment to deal with gangrene or tuberculosis!). Prime is a water conditioner rather than a medication, and should be safe to use during all water changes.>
Also tomorrow I have to go down to the place where I got the fish with a water sample to prove the water quality is all right. Would adding the tetracycline cause an immediate ammonia spike?
It says on the bottle if it is used for a while it will cause it, so it won't cause it immediately?
<It's really difficult to predict, but yes, it can (though often doesn't) kill filter bacteria, so act/plan accordingly. If you have another aquarium then chances are you can take some live filter media from that tank's filter and put in into the filter in this aquarium, assuming the two filters are more or less compatible. Alternatively, have some zeolite ("ammonia remover" filter media) to hand and stuff into a simple box or canister filter, and use this during the period of medication. Generally, be prepared to replace this every 2-3 days, depending on the amount used and the messiness of the fish being treated.>
Just wondering since the place I got the fish obviously wouldn't refund if I have ammonia (even if caused by antibiotics, probably).
<Understandable, they'd go out of business if they did! Seriously, nine-tenths of the premature fish deaths in the hobby are caused by poor water quality.>
The fish are still all alive, they don't look like they are 'dying' per say. But then again neither did the other guppy that died. Particularly.
<Quite so.>
Thanks again Neale
<Most welcome, Neale.>
Re: Hi, my guppy is starving, what do I do, I think he is going to die? 5/5/13
Thanks for your reply Neale,
<Welcome.>
I added tetracycline yesterday and been treating with prime incase the ammonia rises.
<Ah, do understand that Prime will do little/nothing to prevent ammonia poisoning. Big source of confusion here among aquarists. Prime (and other "ammonia removers") neutralise ammonia in tap water, either directly or via the breakdown of chloramine to chlorine + ammonia. What Prime and others don't do is neutralise ammonia produced in real time by respiring, excreting aquarium fish. May have some slight positive benefit I suppose in the hours after a water change, but the Prime is otherwise used up, metabolised by the filter bacteria.>
It hasn't so far even though when I took it to the store i got it from, they said i had ammonia. I actually bought a new test kit and tested and compared it with tap water and it was identical so they must have contaminated their sample by not washing the tube out properly.
<Or your tap water contains ammonia and/or chloramine; I find nitrite test kits infinitely more useful, being less likely to report false positives (from the chloramine). Ammonia is, of course, toxic whether it comes from the tap water or your fish, but most modern water conditioners neutralise tap water ammonia; what's added subsequently by your fish is where your filter steps in and earns its keep.>
I am kind of worried that the ammonia will rise too high to be treated with prime, since it only detoxifies like 1ppm.
<Lethal.>
I don't want to mess with the filter though so is there anything else I could do /add that will make it lower?
<Filtering through zeolite is the best, in fact only way to reliably remove ammonia without using bacteria. Everything else is just a waste of money.>
I added beneficial bacteria to help (stress zyme) and a little of stress coat. None have died, which is good
Sarah
<Cheers, Neale.>

deep sand bed? 5/4/13
I currently have a 125 g display tank with approx 100lbs of live rock. The bottom has 1.5-2" of large crushed aragonite.

I am desire <desirous> to <of> have <having> mostly corals or reef system with a few fish. Currently only have yellow tank <tang?>, Clarke clown, yellow eye tank, and 4 small Chromis. I have had this tank for 10+ years with very limited success with corals. I can get ammonia,
<Trouble>
nitrites to 0 but can seem to never get below 20ppm on nitrates. I run ro, di water so I'm not importing nitrates at water changes which i have been doing every 10 to 14 days religiously for the last year.
<Mmm>
I have two sumps in a dedicated room of my basement. (Display tank is on main floor). One sump is about 20 gal and the other is around 50 gal. Both are divided into 2 chambers. All of water inters the 1st chamber of the 20 which houses a protein skimmer then flows over and through a filter pad
<Nitrate factory>
into the 2nd chamber. About half of water then travels into the second sump where the return pump is and the other half first flows though the other chamber before flowing into the pump return chamber. My plan was to make the chamber in front of the pump area my refugium (its approx 16x33).
<Ah, good>
My questions are would it help my nitrates to add 4-5" fine sand in the refugium area?
<Oh yes; and in the main/display tank as well>
would it be beneficial to make small area DSB with large crushed aragonite?
<Not>
My understanding is if I use the DSB I should not vacuum it right?
<See WWM re... I would vac part... as your regularly scheduled maintenance>>
Would it be good idea to put cheata in this area?
<Chaeto? Yes>
I currently have cheata in this spot for about 6 months or so, no noticeable growth.
<... see WWM re culture... Your low ORP here is likely indicative>
I only have fluorescent grow lights over this area, should i put 175 watt mh.
(I have 3- 175 w Mh 14k bulbs on display tank).
<Fluorescents of use are better... again, gone over and over on WWM>
Thanks for the help
Shawn
<We're glad to help. The reason for our informational site/resource. Bob Fenner>
re: deep sand bed? 5/4/13
So you would recommend I remove most or all of large substrate in display and replace with 4" of fine sand?
<Yes... you've read on WWM?>
Then remove filter pad from sump area right?
<Affirmative>
I figured the pad would remove floating particles as long as I cleaned regularly, but this message is not necessarily?
<... I'd employ rotating filter socks... changed/switched out and cleaned daily. BobF>

water flow, SW 5/4/13
I have read a lot on your site. But haven't noticed the use of a "spray bar" for defusing the water being returned to DT from the sump.
<Mmm, consider passé', and folks instead employ fewer nozzles to direct and accelerate the return water flow nowayears>
I currently have 2- 3/4 pipes about 32" long with 6- 1/4" holes drilled in each section. I have these pipes at the back of the tank on the water line.
These holes aim at varying heights from 2/3 down to 2/3 up at the front side of the tank. I am not sure of the flow amount but I have it set so the 2 - 3/4" pipes in the overflow boxes are maxed out. If I divert more water to DT from pump the DT will overflow.
<Mmm, well... you may well want (to consider getting) a smaller pump... cheaper to run... Use power heads, submersible pumps in the tank itself for real circulation there>
My questions being.. does this seem like enough water movement for reef system.
<Can't really tell w/ the data provided, but most likely not... That is, you could use more flow>
Is that too much of directional movement or could it be beneficial to adjust the spray bars so some holes are aimed to front, some from ends to middle, and some from middle to ends?
<Nah>
It does seem to be somewhat turbulent now because things seem to wave not just blow one way. The water seems to roll. I would like to get enough water movement without adding power heads . Does that seem possible?
<Not likely nor desirable... Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
scroll down to the Circulation, Pumps... tray>
So much of what I'm reading says once I go to a DSB current can stir up sand a lot. My existing flow now doesn't appear to me like that would be a problem( hence my concern for low water movement). Also you referred to low ORP as possible reason for small Chaeto growth .
What is ORP mean ?
<Oh! Oxidation Reduction Potential... see WWM re this string... a VERY useful measure of the suitability of an environment to sustain life>
Thanks again.
PS If you ever think about doing house calls in Iowa I will be sure to get you my address .
<Heeeee! I retired from (very) active service in the trade in 94... but do still get around... mainly to give pitches/presentations at hobby, business and scientific get togethers in the ornamental and aquatic protein production interests; so one never knows. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Hello :) 5/4/13
Thanks for are your helpful information on your site I LOVE it. I need help with an ID of the attached picture please. It looks like maybe an anemone?
<Perhaps Aiptasia, or a Zoanthid. See WWM re both. Bob Fenner>

Your opinion my friend's fish (abuse through ignorance?) 5/4/13
My friend asked me to look after his pets while on vacation. I was appalled at what I encountered in a couple of ways. The one relevant to aquariums is linked below. He has a fish of some kind, and I don't know the species.
<The algae-eating blenny I take it you're referring to>
But it doesn't take a genius in my mind to know this fish doesn't belong in a home aquarium. I am not sure if the video shows it, but it looks emaciated to me. I feed the tank two types of pellet food as the owner instructed, and this fish did not recognize either as food.
<Mainly eat attached filamentous algae; though can be trained to accept other foods>
It swam around frantically looking for food though. I truly ached for this poor animal. And I was angry too...please give me your opinion on this so that I can share it with my friend. I feel so bad for this fish.
http://youtu.be/DK7DqhK3TBs
Thanks,
LW
<Do read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/algblenfdg.htm
and have your friend do so. Bob Fenner>
Re Your opinion my friend's fish (abuse through ignorance?) 5/5/13
> <Do read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/algblenfdg.htm
> and have your friend do so. Bob Fenner>
That's the problem--my friend won't read all that. He's already 'lost' a Mandarin due to ignorance.
<Mmm, easily done>
And he thinks I am alarmist and a bleeding heart. But I do understand not wanting to get in the middle of a personal squabble. Thanks for your time.
<Perhaps sneak in some Nori, Kombu... show him/her what fun it is to offer... BobF>

Once a bully always a bully? P. scalare 5/4/13
Hello:
<Judy>
I have a question. If a freshwater angelfish is a bully to another angelfish does this mean he will bully any angelfish unless he runs into a female he wants to mate with? Thank you
<Depends. Angels (Pterophyllum scalare) are territorial so it's best to get several very young so they grow up together. If you try to import new angels into an established territory inside too small a tank there will be violence. If you want to import a new fish you could try removing the existing fish, rearranging the tank layout, then acclimating all fish into the "new" tank at the same time. As for mating, angelfish are like Klingons. Fighting is part of the mating ritual. They lock lips and wrestle, presumably so the male can prove to the female he is healthy and strong enough to be the father. - Rick>

Question about crushed coral 5/5/13
Hello, in browsing the site I have read that this substrate is a detritus sink.
<Some more than others... depending on many factors; higher order are substrate size, shape, composition, depth... lower are food make up, circulation matters, RedOx, DO, substrate "cleaners", maintenance aspects....>
I have 400 pounds that I want to use in my 250 gallon display tank.
<Mmm, have you read re substrates on WWM?>
I have 2 refugiums that are 22 gallons each, separate from a 75 gallon sump. I will be running a large skimmer as well as elevating my liverock above the sandbed. There will be 2 VorTech mp40 circulation pumps in the display tank, and a Mag 12 return pump on it as well. My question is given the thousands of gallons of flow per hour I will have, on top of a light bio load, using RODI water at 0ppm, do you think I can get away with crushed coral substrate ?
<Mmm, yes...>
Im using Carib sea florida crushed coral and aragonite blend.
<Good products in my estimation>
Honestly I'm afraid a finer sand will get blown around,
<Nah; once it settles down. @ 1 mm material is there to stay>
and I already have $400 worth of the stuff so Id like to use it for monetary reasons. Also I will use a large cleaning crew when it gets to that point. What are your thoughts? Thank you, Adrian
<Can be made to work all the way around... assuming the types of purposeful livestock you intend don't prefer finer.
Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Re: Ricordea Florida all "jumping ship"? Teased Shroom beh. (predictable) 5/5/13
So this is weird. I removed the "adult" Ricordea florida and was all set to start trials of removing this and that to figure out who is making everyone mad... and then all the jumping stopped.
<Not weird>
The "adults" reattached to some rubble in the quarantine and now that there hasn't been any jumping for a week I moved them back and everyone appears happy again. Which brings me to a theory that I want to jump off you.
<Okay>
About 2 weeks before it all started there was one big Ricordea near the top of my live rock, I didn't want it there - wanted to put the Xenia there actually, teased it off
<? How?>
and moved it to some rubble in the refugium awaiting gifting to a friend (human not Ricordea friend :P). The cease in jumping also coincides with the gifting away of said naughty Ricordea. Can Ricordea communicate distress to one another and actually stimulate their "kids" to jump ship?
<Of a certainty, yes. Bob Fenner>

Re Guys I need advise/help/decisions on (anemone) Lighting 4/29/13
Hey Salty getting back to you about that light bulb you wanted me to swap.
<OK>
Salty if I get that blue you recommended that would put me with two blue in my fixture. I only have two bulbs in my zoo med. I have the blue actinic Coralife 10,000 T5 HO bulb and if I get another blue as you suggest that will leave me with no white???? I am confused.
your description "Coralife Blue Actinic 10,000K". The UV 14K lamp will look more like a crispy white/blue, will not appear real blue to your eyes.>
I want to do soft corals Salty. Oh btw, I lost my anemone to a filter intake tube suck up .......
<Not uncommon at all.>
I was on vacation and hub had NO idea what to look for inside my tank, it's my fault, I never should have gone with a anemone in this small tank with two corals fcs.......I loved that darn thing, I had fed it twice and it was thriving.........I just don't listen, I am bad and I felt horrid losing that damn thing. Thanks again for the light bulb response. Julie ; - (
Re Guys I need advise/help/decisions on Lighting 5/3/13
Salty thanks on the response about the light bulb.
<You're welcome Julie.>
I have a question though,
with the recommended light and the one I have, can I ever possibly do a anemone again?
<Possibly a Bubble Tipped.>
Would I have enough light for a carpet anemone? I saw one and I would like to try it again perhaps.
<Mmm, lighting, tank size and lack of protein skimmer tells you no.
Anemones are difficult to keep for any length of time, especially a Carpet Anemone which seldom live more than six months even under optimum conditions. Best to spend your money on a good protein skimmer. Have you read here?
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_6/volume_6_3/capranem.html>
As always, thanks a million.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Julie
Guys I need advise/help/decisions on Lighting/Now Brain Coral/Systems 5/3/13
Salty ( UPDATE)
Well..........nix that idea on a carpet anemone for heavens sake!!!!!!
They get huge and need 125 gallon plus size tanks.
<Yes indeed.>
I did get a brain though Salty. I don't know what the name of the brain is called though but I will ask a few forums if somebody can ID it for me.
Salty as far as your knowledge on Brains go lol, where do they like to be located inside the tank, I am hearing a lot of on the bottom sand etc.
<Yes.>
I have sand/crushed coral in that sand, what say you on this?
<Most brain corals require moderate lighting so you would be right on the edge with your present lighting. >
As always many thanks for helping me along here. I am going to consider an LED fixture over buying T5 bulbs now, I think in long run it will save me time and money etc.
<Oh, most definitely, will pay for themselves in energy savings and lamp replacement costs.>
If I send away for just one bulb they are going to charge me bulb handling fee of $20 dollar and some places $25 dollars. LED's are so pricy to start off with though, I am hoping my money tree out in my yard bears nice dollar bills for spring here LOL.
<Good luck, mine hasn't bloomed in years but my tree was the $20 bill species. I believe the $1 bill species is easier to care for. James (Salty Dog)>
Julia ; - )
Re: lighting, pumping, and new tanks oh my! James! LED input please 5/3/13
This is just for my info, correct? Looks like I answered all his questions re
LEDs.
James
<Ah yes. As is my habit when others are mentioned positively, I cc'd you re. B>

Re: lighting, pumping, and new tanks oh my! James! LED input please. Now flow/circ. rate in sm. SW 5/3/13
Hey Mr. Fenner,
<Hey Eli>
Once again thanks for all the input, it was greatly appreciated and James did an awesome job at answering all my questions and more!
<Ah good>
Since then I have decided to go in a much smaller direction I'll be going away for school soon and bringing that large of a system with me would be impossible unfortunately. So while that behemoth is in storage I decided to purchase 29gallon biocube hqi system, I have kept everything stock except for the bioballs which I have switched out to make a small fuge. So my question is about water flow. Currently I have the stock return pump, a 250gph Aqueon powerhead which faces against the back wall of the tank to help prevent detritus buildup and another powerhead that was given to me and I'm not sure it's power but it's probably equal to or less than the Aqueon. From what I've read the more flow the better
<Up to a point>
I just want to make sure my inhabitants aren't living against the glass!
<Ah yes>
They seem to be ok one have a percula clownfish, one blue green Chromis and one fire fish. As far as corals go I have two stalks of pulsing Xenia, a few Zoas and a small patch of green star polyps. So do you think it's to strong of flow for them, or could possibly be too strong for corals in the future?
<Might be. The only real way to tell is to set up and fire all over>
I have about 50lbs of live rock. Here's a photo of the setup Thanks again for your input
Regards
Eli Ramos
<And you, Bob Fenner>

Unknown animal in my reef tank. 5/3/13
Hi about 3 weeks ago I noticed about 100 tiny creatures in my tank.
Looked like a really small string. Most were brightly colored about 1/4" to 3/8" long and about 1/32" wide.
I figured it was either bristle worms or some other worm that must have been in the live sand I added to the tank several days earlier.
<Mmm, nah>
Now I those guys are about 1/2" long and look like tiny shrimp. Antenna and the curled tail, and the bright color is gone. They only come out at night. And are fast as he'll when it comes to getting out of the light.
What could it be and if I need to get reed of them how do I do it?
<Are beneficial...>
Mainly I'm worried if it is a mantis shrimp. I got a lot of small fish that could suffer in the long run. I'm attaching some pictures. I also got videos of the darn things if that would help identify them.
<Are all their legs about the same length? Am guessing these are Amphipods...: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/amphipodfaqs.htm
Bob Fenner>

Re: Unknown animal in my reef tank. 5/4/13
They were to small to tell for sure but from what i could see they have even length legs. Do amphipods have multi color larvae? How big will they get?
Thank you.
<Larvae are very small; not visible to the naked eye... the ones you sent pix of, described may be full size. BobF>

Last ever..... GF... 5/3/13
Hello Neale , this will be my last email ever, I am taking my fish to my
local privately owned fish store, I have been getting water from them
(better source then softened) I still am dealing with the floaty fish and
they want me to ask
If this fish has been doing this for 3 months or better and Not digesting
food would he be thin and sick by now?
<Certainly thinner, yes; Goldfish can go weeks, months without food when
kept cold (they more or less fast throughout winter in iced-over ponds) but
indoors will be metabolising much faster, and you'd expect Goldfish to
quickly lose apparent bulk (within weeks, a month) if not eating anything
at all.>
He took a piece of 2 inch by 3 inch algae sheet and pulled entire piece off
of clip, before I could get it he swallowed it then about 30 minutes or
less later threw up almost entire piece, does this mean it was just too
much or he cant digest food, reason I am asking is I gave him a pea and
some brine shrimp the other day and it is coming out (poop) almost as it
did when he ate it?
<Likely means nothing at all. Does he eat anything else?>
The pet store lady just wondered if there can be problems with fish not
being able to digest food and this is why he has thin poop
<I'm sure fish can have situations where they digest food poorly, just as
humans can; but Goldfish produce a lot of faeces, often in long brown
strings, and "thin" doesn't really tell me much. Pale faeces (not brown,
more clear or off-white) typically contain a lot of mucous, and these can
indicate protozoan parasites in the gut, which irritate the bowel, and that
in turn produces the faeces.>
He is a good eater. I am taking them on Monday (here) she set up a new tank
for them, she also uses salt, which I know is yes or no to a lot, but I
have to get them used to that too as this is one of her protocols The tank
is a bit bigger and her water is not from a softener, it is hard water.
<Good.>
Well any advice on this would be appreciated, little detail if you can
offer it as I only have the weekend to get him a bit better, she will feed
and care for the tank but she is not going to watch over him constantly as I
do, I have obligations coming soon and wont be able to care for them, I
will be gone a lot, and am hoping this is a better choice overall for them,
I am hurting all the time with worry and even now the concern for them when
they leave
Thanks
Cathy
<Good luck, Neale.>

Re: Hi, my guppy is starving, what do I do, I think he is going to die? 5/3/13
Hi Neale thanks for your fast reply, I dosed using PimaFix do you think it might save the rest?
<Wouldn't bank on it. Pimafix, Melafix, and other "herbal" cures are at best preventatives, and likely do little/nothing to cure established diseases. Some, like Bob, actually feel they cause more problems than they solve. In any event, Wasting-type diseases such as Mycobacteriosis are very difficult to cure even with real, medically-testing medications, let alone Pimafix, Melafix and the like. Better to understand the background to Wasting diseases (poor stock to begin with, and/or failures in care, such as overstocking, diet, wrong water chemistry). Then you can prevent or avoid the problem through better choices, planning and execution. Cheers, Neale.>

Sick angels, one with lumps and one with missing scales & rotting fins... Too large pix files, no reading on WWM 5/3/13
I have a 75 gallon currently stocked with the following: 2 medium-sized angels, 1 gold dojo loach, 1 2.5" clown Pleco, 1 4" leopard Ctenopoma,
<Mmm; can be aggressive>
1 albino Cory & 7 rainbows (2-3").
<What/which species?>
The problems began a week and a half ago when I found my third angel viciously attacking the black one (out of no where). I removed him from the tank. At the time the black angel was missing some scales and had tail & fin damage. Soon after I noticed bumps on my gold pearl angel. One bump (on its right side) has a dark center that has been growing. Otherwise these bumps have remained mostly the same. Neither angel healed as quickly as I'd thought; while the black one's fins & tail healed very quickly, its scaleless areas seemed to be growing. I checked the parameters, and all was zero, except there was a small amount of nitrates. I forgot to check for pH, I'm now realizing.
Anyway, fearing bacterial infections, I moved both to the hospital tank & treated with Maracyn & Maracyn 2.
<Sensible>
There were no changes other than that the largest lump on the gold pearl grew a bit, and the dark center grew a bit too. My LFS recommended treating them with Melafix,
<Of no use; may even be detrimental... interrupting nitrification>
so I put them back in the 75 gallon & began treatment--all following a 35-40% water change. (The black angel was attacking the gold pearl in the small hospital tank.) They also said that if I was worried I could treat for parasites, so I treated fully with Tetra Parasite Guard because I had it on hand. This produced no changes.
<... these fish (same species, actually cross) don't have pathogenic disease... these are wounds born of being attacked, bitten by some other fish>
Now, today (day 3 of Melafix), the black one has white areas on its tail fins and some missing pieces of its tail.
<It's the API tea extract... see WWM re... worse than a sham... It's poisoning your angels>
There was no fraying at the ends, but rather the fraying started closer to the base & caused breakage. There are also a few more small regions where scales are missing. The worst area (on the black angel's left side) seems to be more if a hole now, although there is no redness; it just looks deeper. The attached pics were taken a few days ago before this worsened.
Please help! Both fish are acting & eating fine, and all other fish in the tank appear fine. The tank is filtered with a 75-gal Aqueon & a 90-gal Marineland BioWheel. We feed the fish flake, cichlid pellets & occasionally frozen bloodworms. We perform weekly water changes of 20-25%.
Thanks!
<All these fish need is enough space, clean water, and a dearth of getting beaten (by each other?). Bob Fenner>

Re: Sick angels, one with lumps and one with missing scales & rotting fins 5/3/13
Thank you very much for the quick response, Bob! In my opinion this site is the best for researching and resolving fish issues, but I didn't realize I'd get such a fast response.
<Heeee! Depends "who's on"... Do ding dang hot here in San Diego (nineties F) that can't work on garden, barely stand to cook>
The leopard Ctenopoma is a gentle giant and sticks to herself unless her curiosity gets the better of her, in which case she just approaches a fish and gives it a once-over (unless it's small enough to be consumed). The attacks were definitely caused by the marble angel. He has been a problem off and on for some time, but never to this degree.

My primary concern was and is that some of the regions/bumps are growing.
If you think that all they need are space and pristine conditions, then we will do a large water change tonight and reinsert the carbon into the filters, as well as stop the Melafix. I will continue with daily changes until they are healed, hopefully,
<Yes; this is all I would do... not likely this is anything parasitic; that needs treating>
I would really like to make sure you are of the same mind after viewing the pics. Or did you see them, and they were just not able to be posted to the WWM site? Thanks again!
<We're just limited on space period. Hence ask folks to limit file sizes.
BobF>

Re: PH water chemistry question 5/4/13
Hello Neale, I so appreciate you answering this question! It's been really bothering me and it takes a load off. I am going to change my RO formula to 50/50, I agree that works better for me. One more question if you don't mind. My Betta had been happy, however last week I noticed that some of his fins started to split and his tail developed pin holes and was getting shorter and shorter. I read that the issue is almost always poor care/water quality, however I couldn't imagine that because I usually do 2X weekly water changes because of the live plant start up.
<Non-zero ammonia and nitrite levels during the cycling process (or of course afterwards) are common reasons why fish become stressed. In turn, stress weakens their immune system, and that allows opportunistic bacteria to invade the fin and skin tissue, starting the process of Finrot. With this said, because Bettas have unnaturally long fins, they are especially prone to physical damage as well, such as clumsy netting, bounces during the trip from store to your house, abrasions caused by sharp rocks and ornaments, even excessive suction from filters (you should use an air-powered filter on a Betta tank rather than an electric filter). Rapid pH changes don't normally cause Finrot directly, though repeated water chemistry changes can stress fish beyond their ability to adapt, and that could allow something like Finrot to get started. But more normally rapid pH changes produce more obvious signs of stress: nervousness, jumpiness, gasping at the surface, and other such signs of a fish that wants to get out. Provided your tap water isn't mind-blowingly hard (above, say, 20 degrees dH, pH 8) then there's no real need to mess about with water chemistry for domesticated fish such as Bettas. Indeed, you could argue that a stable, if high, pH around 7.6 would be better than trying to maintain, clumsily, a more "natural" pH around the 6 to 6.5 mark that actually ends up changing every day.>
So I thought maybe it could be PH swings, now I know differently. However, I realized that poor water quality came from my water sprite plant that rotted. However, I was stumped by this because only the base (mother plant) died and the floating part had and created tons and tons of baby plantlets and I've had to cut it back every week. Anyway, so much to learn.
<Water Sprite is easy to grow, but yes, it's a good idea to crop it back regularly. I'd warmly encourage you to try it again, but do get true Water Sprite (Ceratopteris thalictroides) rather than a lookalike species like Water Wisteria and bear in mind that all floating plants need some space between their leaves and the tank lights, at least an inch, preferably more. I happen to find Amazon Frogbit works much better in tanks with limited space under the hood; it's an easy to grow plant in other regards too.>
So, I pulled up the plant and cleaned everything out really good. Last Saturday I moved my Betta to the 1.5 QT tank and have been doing 90% water changes with 1.5 tsp of salt.

His fins stopped receding and the pins holes have mended even though I can tell the healing in not complete. There's still a tiny split and the fins have not grow back yet. My question is can I move him back to his regular home since now I know the problem?
<Sure, provided water chemistry is stable and water quality is good.>
Another thing I should mention is he clamps his back tail at times. Is this part of the fin rot?
<Unlikely.>
Also, under his chin it looks a little more smooth than usual seems like it should be more scaly. He hates it in that little tank and definitely he is not as active in there. If I move him back is twice a week water changes enough at 15% each?
<Or some multiple thereof, yes. For a single Betta in a 10-gallon tank, a 25% water change every week or two should be ample. Remember not to overfeed though!>
Also, if I move him I will have to decrease the salt? I believe it will kill my plants.
<May do so; depends on the plants.>
I'm scared to do this, unless possibly only 1 tsp for the whole tank.
<One teaspoon per 10 gallons is trivial, and will have zero effect on either plants or fish. I know some Betta people are wedded to this addition of salt to their systems, but there's no real evidence it helps, and at this level, it can't possibly stress or kill pathogens like Finrot bacteria (which do, after all, live in brackish and marine aquaria!!!).>
Also, I have two crazy Oto cats in his big tank that helped with the algae, but I'm thinking it's best to take them out.
<Ah! The plot thinnens! Otocinclus are NOT as harmless as they seem. Some specimens are known to nibble at the flanks of slow-moving fish. I would not keep them with a Betta; if you must have tankmates with a Betta, choose something totally harmless, like Corydoras or Whiptails.>
They are so hyper! I know there are tons of threads on this issue, but I'm hoping to get an answer for my set up. Your site is truly amazing. Thanks for being so willing to help.
Donetta
<Most welcome, Neale.>
Re: PH water chemistry question 5/4/13
Neale,
I forgot the picture!
Donetta
<Ah yes, a Betta that's been through the wars a little. Otherwise looks sound though, so should recover. See previous message for suggestions on this. Cheers, Neale.>

RE: Help Needed!!
Filamentous algae in a comm. setting 5/4/13
Hello Crew , hello NateG !!
<Kostas>
Here is a quiz on which I have spent too much time on.
As Mr. Bob already knows , I am a pet shop owner specialized on aquariums.
In my corals tank I have the following problem the last 6 months.
The tank "produces" 2 types of algae (as I believe) as per photos. First time I noticed that was after I received for a customer a Caulerpa rock that I hosted for about 14 days. In this tang as a cleaning crew I have a Lo Vulpinus , a Ctenochaetus Tominiensis , Salarias Fasciatus , Six Line wrasse and a Mandarin. Tomini usually was hitting the Caulerpa rock so at first I was thinking that Tomini moved the Caulerpa at other places in the tank and Caulerpa started growing , so after 2 months I removed the whole algae (or as much as I could from the racks) manually. Removed all the corals and cleaned theirs rock and then removed the sand bed , and cleaned all the glasses and racks. After the cleaning procedure , changed the 40% of water , picked another sand bed (black one) but the quantity was less than what I removed. After 2 approx months the same thing happened , cleaning once again the whole tank manually. Right now , once again after 2 months we are at the same point.
So here is the set up and parameters of the tank
700 Litres (350 x 40 x50 cm )
No sump.
<I'd add/ w a DSB, a RDP lighting arrangement>
An external filter (Rena XP3) 1250 ltr/h , with Sera's activated carbon , Sera's Phosvec Granulat and Sera's Silicate clear.
Aqua medic Skimmer shorty 3500 with 2 x Eheim 1260
3 x Tunze Turbelles , 4000 ltr/h each and Tunze wave box.
All the parameters are measured by Hanna's equipment.
Salinity 1026
Temp: 25 Celsius
PH: 8,1 - 8,3
KH : 8,5 - 9
Ca: 420-445 ppm
Mg: 1260-1300 ppm
NH4 undetectable
NO2 undetectable
NO3 <1,3
PO4 < 0,10
I dose manually every day Ca and KH , and magnesium as needed.
I use Seachem-AquaVitro Fuel twice a week ( I know that this could be fuel for algae also)
<Yes>
I feed every 2 days Gamma NutraPlus complete feed (as per tank litres)
I feed every day Sera's GVG mix , and Gamma frozen Brine shrimp.
I use AquaVitro salinity salt.
If you need any other info please let me know
I would appreciate your thoughts.
Best regards
Kostas
<I'd likely add a phosphate limiting chemical (Lanthanum) or absorbent here to knock the PO4 down an order of magnitude... The DSB arrangement will do this long term. Bob Fenner>

Re: (no subject) Evap., FW 5/4/13
lol i got to say that's pretty funny cause when your message started it said that my question couldn't be answered and you answered it.
<Tis a guess>
Well what i am meaning is when you said bout gallon a day.. That was the answer i was looking for.. and thank you for explaining everything to me bout pumps, room
temp and if there is a breeze and etc. I was thinking bout a gallon a day is
normal. So with your opinion being close to what i was thinking you have made my day cause now i know that about a gallon a days is most likely normal.. thank you for your time and getting back with me.. I hope you have a
wonderful weekend...TA TA..
<Cheers, BobF>

What is my clown doing? Beh. 5/4/13
Hi there folks! I have a pair of Percularis clowns. One, I believe to be the male, is drawn to the back bottom corner of my tank. He's there as I type this, upside down
<?... head down I take it; not inverted>
on the back wall. He appears to be picking on it but there is hardly any type of algae growth to be seen!!! Sometimes the female will do the same thing, but usually (and often) it's just him.
Any ideas??
<Re?>
Should I purchase some sort of plankton or greens (so to speak) that he may like?
<See WWM re feeding clowns>
Is this even the issue? I've seen a suction cup clip that holds foods for fish to swim up to and nibble on and was thinking of trying that out.
What do you think about my behaviors of my quirky clown? (Oh, and if it makes a difference I have a submersible Eheim heater in the corner as well.
He's parked himself right below it.)
Thanks a bunch!
<Not unusual behavior... see WWM re... Bob Fenner>

Re: Flukes/PraziPro 5/2/13
Hi Bob,
<Jen>
I'm still battling flukes with the Flame Angel. It appears they are winning.
<? Are you absolutely sure these are flukes?>
At Hikari's advice the dosage was tripled and they haven't died. I did a freshwater dip on the Flame yesterday and didn't see anything come off. I saved the water to look at through the microscope, which arrived today. I did find "something" that looked like a fluke, but it on a slide and yuck!
It/they were moving. And they've been in freshwater for 24 hrs!
They appear to be encased perhaps an egg?
<Mmm>
Could/if I send it to you could you either tell me what I'm dealing with or refer me to someone that could identify these things? Thank you
Jen
<Do send along well resolved images. I "do" fish pathology... in fact the third gig of the newest Fish Health Conference is coming back up:
http://www.neaquatech.org/uneconference/
Bob Fenner>
Re: Flukes/PraziPro 5/2/13
Hi Bob,
No, I'm not 100% positive this is flukes.
<Do appear to be>
The first time I dipped the Flame there were flukes. But that was a month ago and several doses of PraziPro ago. But he has faded color, hiding, hanging out in the return and at the top of the water. He's also stopped eating in the last 2 days.
<May be the effects of the Prazi...>
Do you think it's possible that since the dosage of PraziPro was tripled this sent the Trematodes into a reproducing frenzy?
<Don't know>
They seemed to have gotten worse since this dosing regimen.
<Time to switch to another/different vermifuge/anthelminthic... Maybe Levamisole if you can get i>
Here are a few pictures. I do have a video if that will help but I will have to send it separately. Thank you, Bob!
<Have seen enough here. B>

Re: Flukes/PraziPro 5/2/13
Thanks Bob! I will work on getting the Levamisole. I don't know why the PraziPro is not working. According to Hikari they have yet to come across any Trematode that it won't kill.
<My experience matches theirs>
Thanks again, Bob:). Jen
<Welcome. BobF>
Re: Flukes/PraziPro 5/2/13
Bob, sorry, forgot to ask. How much on dosage, frequency, etc. I've been researching this and can only find Levamisole being used for AEFW.
<Mmm, yes; the same; gone over here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/vermifugefaqs.htm
I'm ordering I today. Jen
<Cheers, BobF>
Re: Flukes/PraziPro 5/2/13
So what could be my problem?
<... a few guesses: Something defective w/ the compound, some sort of resistance, some countered condition of your water>
This is the third bottle I've used. Is there any way to tell the type of Trematode?
<Mmm, yes; there are systematists in this field... morphological, genetic means>
... Microcotyle? (most infects gills of Angelfish).
If the PraziPro won't kill them then will anything else? Jen
<Hopefully so, yes. For sure formalin/formaldehyde... A biocide, as in "life" and "cease" (caedere in L.). B>
Re: Flukes/PraziPro 5/2/13
Oh! So the same dosage for flukes as AEFW! Got it:) thanks
<Welcome>
Re: Flukes/PraziPro 5/2/13
That was my thinking so I ordered powder Praziquantel.
I didn't want to but I did a formalin dip yesterday on the Flame. He did ok through out it. I then put him into a sterilized tank.
<... dangerous, but effective>
I did read a paper on hypo being effective against flukes and the eggs.
Jen
<Not often entirely. B>
Re: Flukes/PraziPro 5/3/13
I did a lot of reading before I did the dip. It was aerated for 2 hrs prior, timed and I watched him constantly for stress. He actually did more swimming in there than he did before and after the dip. I don't think he's going to make it. I just dosed him with PraziPro again.
<Why?>
It has, in the past, given him relief so at this point I have nothing to lose. Jen
<I'd summarily pH-adjusted formalin bath this fish and move it to a non-infested system. B>
Re: Flukes/PraziPro 5/3/13
When you say pH adjusted is the water to be freshwater or salt?
<.... see WWM re>
I used saltwater with the formalin dip (45 minutes)
<Way too long...>
yesterday then moved him into clean tank. I've read this can be done every 3 days for 4 treatments...kind of like tank transfer method for Ich.
I used the PraziPro because it did help him for weeks, to the point I thought we had kicked the flukes. It's only in the last week they got bad.
Jen

Thin Powder Blue Tang 5/3/13
Hello again crew. Seems like I've been writing you guys a lot lately.
<... w/ too-large image files>
This will hopefully be my last question for a while! I ordered a Powder Blue Tang online.
<This fish is starving>
When he arrived he was very thin but he was eating right away. He was even searching for food in the acclimation bucket! He has not come down with crypt and eats voraciously on Nori and Rod's Food soaked in Selcon.
<Ah, good>
But as stated he is very thin. I am just wondering if there is anything more that I should be doing for him?
<Yes... NLS Spectrum pellets.... Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/pbtfdgfaqs.htm
Other than supplying him with an endless amount of Nori.
<Very little food value in Porphyra sheets, other algae... Bob Fenner>
I have attached a few pictures for reference.
Thanks,
Shea

Re: Thin Powder Blue Tang 5/3/13
Thanks Bob. Sorry about the image sizes. I can resend with smaller sizes if you would like.
<Ah, no; too late>
I have various sizes of NL Spectrum Pellets that I can offer.
<Oh, good>
Should I be soaking them in the Selcon solution?
<Maybe for a short while (a minute or two)>
I am appalled in the condition that this fish showed up in.
<Very common for all wild-caught fishes to not be fed after capture...
through packing, shipping... often even while at wholesale facilities...
And Tangs as you note, eat/forage continuously by day>
This is the second tang that showed up like this. First one was a Naso that died 4 days after arriving. I could not get that one to eat. Needless to say I will not be ordering from that company in the future.
<Ah yes; good point... Dr.s Foster and Smith (through Quality Marine) is a valid source>
Thanks,
Shea
<Welcome, and thank you. BobF>

Re: Should I Reintroduce? 5/3/13
Hello once again,
<Hello Dawn,>
Thank you for the valuable information. I'll wait until his caudal has grown in mostly before reintroducing him.
<Wise.>
I've been trying not to bug you, but I have just one more question, (ha, as if that will end all curiosity!) this time regarding my main aquarium.
Would it be possible for me to keep a pair of Papiliochromis ramirezi in the 20 gallon along with my pair of Trichogaster lalius (formerly Colisa lalia), school of 5 Danio margaritatus, school of 9 Puntius titteya, and 2 remaining Danio rerio?
<I would not recommend them. Ram Cichlids (currently Mikrogeophagus ramirezi) need soft, acidic and very warm water to do well; we're talking 1-5 degrees dH, pH 5.5-6.5, 28-30C/82-86F. That's too warm for most tropical fish, and if you keep them cooler, they quickly become sickly.
Often they seem "juiced" with hormones and/or antibiotics, so they look really nice in the shop, and to be fair, look really nice in your tank for a few weeks, even months. But few specimens seem to last beyond 6 months in captivity, unless the aquarist is really clued up on their needs and plans the tank accordingly. The Bolivian Ram is infinitely more robust, but a little big for a 20-gallon tank that's already quite well-stocked, so instead have a peek at Apistogramma cacatuoides, one of the hardiest and most adaptable Apistogramma. Lots of colour forms sold.>
I've read up on their basic care requirements and have admired them at a distance for several years. Of course, they would be kept in QT for at least 2 weeks. Looking forward to hearing from you!
Regards, Dawn
<Welcome, Neale.>

Red Eared Slider won't eat, doesn't stick out tail 5/3/13
Greetings!
<Hi Emily! Sue here with you.>
I have a couple of questions regarding my Red-Eared Slider. After checking your website (and multiple other websites) for the answers and not finding any, I decided to email you for help.
<We’ll do our best!>
1. I have never seen my turtle eat at all in the 6 months I have had him. He seems healthy (swims around and acts all turtle-y), but he doesn't seem to eat at all.
<That’s a positive sign that he appears active, but it’s very unusual for a turtle to go that long without eating unless they live outdoors in a 4 season climate and hibernate in the winter.>
I have placed the pellets in his tank and left, then came back later and counted the pellets to see if he had eaten any (did this multiple times over the last 6 months), and each time all the pellets were still there. Is he anorexic or something? Is there anything I can do to encourage him to eat?
<Will need more information from you; see below.>
2. He never sticks his tail out, ever. I saw a bunch of sliders at the zoo and the all had their tails out, and my brother's turtle also sticks her tail out, but my turtle never sticks his out! Is my turtle just a nerdy, introverted turtle, or does he have some kind of strange problem? Do you have any suggestions or explanations regarding my turtle's behavior?
<The only time I’ve seen turtles tuck in their tails is when they’re afraid or uncomfortable in their surroundings. I’d like to get more detailed information from you about his habitat.>
Additional information:
My turtle is about 6 inches long (just his shell, not including his head or the tail he never sticks out). He is kept in a large Sterilite tub outdoors, and there is plenty of sunshine. I feed him regularly (even though he doesn't eat) with turtle pellets from PetSmart. His name is Jason Whittaker.
<Emily – Without knowing more detail, my guess is that his lack of appetite and strange behavior is more than likely due to a problem in his habitat. Here are some of my initial thoughts based on what you’ve written so far:
 1st, I would NOT keep him outside in any sort of plastic or glass enclosure. These types of enclosures are especially susceptible to large temperature swings and can easily overheat if put in the sun. You don’t want to risk cooking him!
 Also this kind of an outdoor set-up makes him vulnerable to a predator attack. This could be why he’s exhibiting what appears to me to be very nervous behavior with his tail tucked in his shell.
 Next, are you in a 4 season climate where it gets cold in the winter? If so, did you keep him outside over the winter? If you did, the reason he didn’t eat was because when temperatures drop in the fall/winter, turtles go into brumation, a period similar to hibernation in animals when their metabolism slows down to the point where they stop eating until the weather warms up again.
 If you want to keep him in a Sterilite bin vs. a glass tank that’s fine, but you should be keeping it/him INDOORS, not outdoors. Also given his size, you want to make sure it’s large enough for him (in particular the surface area). Turtles enjoy having a lot of room to swim around.
 You didn’t mention what you have inside his enclosure. Is there just water inside, or is there also a dry basking area that he can haul out onto? Sliders need an environment that’s part land, part water. The water should be kept COOL (around 68-70 degrees F) and “the land” (or basking area) should be WARM and DRY (around 88-90 degrees F). Besides the heat lamp, you will also need to provide him with a basking light that specifically has UVB (if the bulb says only “basking” it’s likely NOT a UVB bulb).
 Lastly, I'm also going to give you this link to our basic care guide to read over:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm >
<Compare what you’re doing to what I’ve said above and what’s in this article, and make whatever necessary changes in his habitat – hopefully that will be enough to do the trick and you’ll start seeing him eating and behaving more normally. Make sure you also read about filtration and water changes as you didn’t mention this either in your note. I’d also suggest reading the section on Diet to make sure you have that covered appropriately as well.>
Thanks in advance for your help,
<You’re welcome, Emily. Write us back if you have any questions about any of this, or if you’d like to provide more information about his habitat, we’ll see if we can help you even further! >
Emily L. Gullion
Freaked-Out Owner of Jason Whittaker
<Sue, Frazzed-Out Mom-n-Chief of a 6 and 11 year old (humans)!>

pH and Alkalinity 5/3/13
Hi Crew, I have read that if marine tanks maintain a high Alkalinity then the pH will not drop.
<Mmm, well, the two do trend together>
Therefore if I regularly test for Alkalinity am I (my fish) safe from a pH drop?
<Likely from a precipitous one; yes>
Is it really as simple as this?
<Not as simple... the more you look, the more there is to see... but simple carbonate, bicarbonate and proton donor (acids) interactions are>
I have had an excellent run at the moment with a Blue face almost changing from Juvenile to Adult is about 2 months. Is this very fast?
<Mmm, no; not necessarily... depends on how near to changing, the circumstances its kept in...>
I have been doing water changes but pH was my only issue. It is a FOWLR tank and I add Seachem Marine Buffer when the pH drops. Can you recommend any good Alkalinity Test kits, API seem popular here in Asia. Regards,
Adam.
<Look for LaMotte, Hach... and folks they make reagents and standards for.
Can be ordered over the Net, catalogs. Bob Fenner>

FW... evaporation rate guessing 5/3/13
Hello there I really hope you can help me wit this ... ok I have a 500 gallon freshwater fish tank.. now this is my first tank at this size.. Ok I had drawled a line on my filter tank to know to not to go over that line for safety reasons like so when turn pumps off it wont over fill in the filter tank and there be a mess.. But ok well my question is for a freshwater tank my size how much water evaporates daily??? So meaning what is the normal amount of water that would evaporate daily??? I hope you can answer my question and thank you for your time..
<... depends on relative temperature, the humidity in the air above the tank, whether it is covered, there is a breeze... likely a gallon or so per day. Bob Fenner>
/Neale 5/3/13
Hello there I really hope you can help me wit this ... ok I have a 500 gallon freshwater fish tank.. now this is my first tank at this size.. Ok I had drawled a line on my filter tank to know to not to go over that line for safety reasons like so when turn pumps off it wont over fill in the filter tank and there be a mess.. But ok well my question is for a freshwater tank my size how much water evaporates daily??? So meaning what is the normal amount of water that would evaporate daily??? I hope you can answer my question and thank you for your time..
<We can't answer this! Evaporation depends on a number of factors, including the temperature of the room, the amount of air movement, and how saturated with water the air already happens to be. The warmer the room, the more the air moves, and the dryer the air, the faster evaporation will occur. Make sense? Automatic aquarium top-up systems are available for use on marine tanks, and these can be used on freshwater tanks too. As for what happens if a pump fails, if the tank is properly designed, there is no risk of water spilling out of the tank. Consult with an experienced fishkeeper who can look at your system to be sure, but standard aquarium pumps like external canisters shouldn't drain the tank even if they stop working.
Cheers, Neale.>

PH water chemistry question 5/3/13
Hello I'm hoping you can help me resolve a problem. I have a 10 gallon planted tank with a Betta. This is a low light set up with 2 -10Watt CFLs.
I dose fertilizers including Excel 3 times per week. Tank has been set up for 1 1/2 months. In setting up my tank I decided to mix distilled water 75% and tap 25% to lower my GH. My tap is GH16 and I didn't want to be limited by this. My formula ended giving me GH5 and PH7.6. Over a three week period I tested the GH and it was pretty constant at GH5-6. I didn't bother testing the PH as I assumed it was in line also. When I was acclimating my fish I tested all my water param.s to compare to the water my fish came in. To my surprise my PH tested at 8.2. How can this be?
<Easily.>
The good thing is my Betta's water tested at 8.0, but I'm concerned about the large swing. I did more testing and the result is that during the night the PH would be high and during the day the PH would be normal. I'm concerned because high PH fray Betta fins and I know they need a stable PH.
<Slight pH changes, say from 7.6 to 8.2 over a 24-hour cycle, are not a problem; indeed, they happen in the wild all the time. e.g., in garden ponds.>
I've inquired else where and was told this is normal, but I'm concerned.
Can I add something to the water to stabilize the PH?
<No real need.>
I've read about different products, but they indicate they will increase the hardness. Doesn't this defeat the point?
<Depends what "the point" is. First, check the carbonate hardness, measured in degrees KH, as this is the stuff that mostly inhibits pH drops. It's not the same as general hardness (GH, measured in degrees dH). If your carbonate hardness is very low, then pH will drop; conversely, if carbonate hardness is very high, it will probably keep the pH around 8, plus or minus a little. My guess would be that you have carbonate hardness around 10-15 degrees KH out of the tap, and so you should still have 2-4 degrees KH in the aquarium assuming your 3:1 ratio of pure water to tap water. You may want to use a neutral pH buffer, but to be honest, I wouldn't bother. If the fish is basically happy, I'd not be worried; indeed, I'd not even faff with the 3:1 ratio, and would simply mix DI water with tap water at a 50/50 ratio, which is plenty good enough for farmed Bettas, and being cheaper because you're using less DI water, you can afford to do more water changes.>
I'm new at fish keeping and water chemistry. Thank you! Donetta
<Welcome, Neale.>

Re Hi, my guppy is starving, what do I do, I think he is going to die? 5/3/13
Hi again...
He died so I got new ones but now. Everything seemed to be fine. I got the guppies about 4 days ago, the tank has been cycled for a long time. The water has no ammonia or anything and i got new guppies and one died it has a really red gill and fat stomach some of the others have reddish gills and are a bit bloated; what should I do? :(
I'm scared this is going to wipe my whole tank out..
Thanks :(
<As Bob said before, farmed Guppies and Mollies are much less hardy nowadays that they were in the past (or are in the wild). Keeping in slightly brackish water, around a teaspoon of marine salt mix per 3-4 litres/1 US gallon makes a big difference. Obviously this won't suit other species, so choose tankmates accordingly (much to be said for keeping Guppies and Mollies in single-species set-ups). Mycobacterial infections seem ubiquitous; abdominal swelling, bloody sores on the flanks, and general emaciation/failure to thrive are common symptoms. Best advice: choose some other species if "easy to keep" matters to you… X-ray Tetras, Zebra Danios, Bronze Corydoras, Bristlenose Catfish all the fit the bill and can do well in tanks from 15 gallons upwards. Cheers, Neale.>

Nitrates. SW 5/3/13
Hi Bob, Thanks for the answer in regards to pH/Alk. My tank runs Nitrates at 20ppm and apart from huge water changes which incur other problems how keen are you on products like Seachem Denitrate/Matrix etc or can you recommend a process to decrease Nitrates, or perhaps even better tell me that 20ppm should be ok for inverts, anemones etc.
<All gone over and over on WWM... can you find via the search tools, index?
B>
I read on the internet and people out there are saying that they keep anemones in 60ppm, granted there are many types of anemones my tank seems to have struck a balance at 20ppm over many months but I would like to tip it in my favour down to 5ppm, I guess Zero in any tank with bioload is dreaming. Regards, Adam.

Frag Blastomussa wellsi 5/2/13
Hi Crew, Four days ago I cut one small head from the underside of my Blastomussa wellsi. It is on a small rock of less than 2 inches. The heads on the colony are larger than a half dollar and there are at least 10 I can see. The frag is about the size of a shirt button. Can I expect it to attach to the shell it is on?
<Ah yes; very likely will in time>
There are more heads on the underside of the colony and was wondering how long I should wait till I try it again?
<Perhaps a few weeks>
I do not see any adverse reaction from the colony. I used a small pointy scissors to cut it out and tried to scrape the rock underneath it when I lifted it out. Thanks, Sam
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Re: Discoloration in my fish.
Digital meter? 5/2/13
What is a good brand?
<There are quite a few... Hach makes some low end (cost) spectrophotometric units...
LaMotte as well: http://www.lamotte.com/aquarium_fish_farming.html>
I didn't even know you could get a digital meter for ammonia and such. I have only seen ph, orp, oxygen.
<Oh yes... there are such tests for most all aspects... BobF>

Id this tang 5/1/13
Please help me identify this little guy. I know he is a unicorn tang of some sorts. Is living currently on a 8 foot 300 gallon tank.
G.
<Please send along a decent (well-resolved) still image. Bob Fenner>
ID this tang 5/1/13
Please help me identify this guy. Thanks
G.
<Mmm, well; yes; I do agree w/ the genus Naso... due to the white mark on the caudal peduncle, am going w/ a guess that this is a juvenile N. tuberosus. Only time/growth can/will tell.
My further input re the genus here on WWM:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/naso.htm
Bob Fenner>

Re: ID this tang 5/1/13
Thank you Mr. Fenner, its a pleasure reading this website.
G.
<Ahh, thank you. BobF>

Re: WetWebMedia, FOWLR, 55 gal. set up and stocking 5/1/13
Thanks for the fast reply Mr. Fenner. I now realize that I did ask the same question three times, sorry.
<No worries Wes>
I'm still reading about QT on your site and I see that you advocate the same salinity in the QT tank as the main tank. I must say that would eliminate mistakes I might make with ph matching the water during frequent changes, as it allows just dumping the main tank water in the QT directly.
I'll have to read more and decide since there are differing opinions on QT salinity among folks like you with much more experience than me. I could freshwater dip the puffer instead. I've heard that netting may cause them to puff up. Perhaps I can scoop him in a small cup.
<Yes... or corral underwater in a net, and transfer there into another water-holding container>
I will buy a bigger tank for QT. Would 10 gallons be adequate?
<Barely... a 15 would be much better>
I'd also like to use a canister filter like a Fluval 105. I can easily move media into it from my main tank.
<Good>
Per your advice I will just keep watch on my main tank inhabitants without treating. I'm not sure why I wanted to treat unseen pests in the first place.
<"Madison Ave."... Folks in the west are conditioned to be consumers... to "buy things" to make them feel better. Not real>
What are your thoughts on prophylactic treatment of PraziPro in QT for this Valentini puffer I plan to acquire.
<Of worth...>
My LFS said that many public aquariums do this on all new arrivals.
<This is so>
I understand that internal parasites may be more common in Tobies than some other fish, but I don't want to subject him to unnecessary stress.
<Not that stressful; compared w/ all else>
Thanks for the tip on phosphate and Texas Holey rock. I acquired a phosphate test kit and it reads 2ppm.
<D'oh!>
This seems very high since I have been doing weekly 10-15 gallon water changes. This must be part of the reason I have Cyano trouble.
<Ah yes>
I'm going to have to remove this Texas Holey rock ASAP. I will try to find some new live or dry rock to replace it, or some black ABS pipes and elbows I've been thinking about for the eel to hide in.
<A good choice. That or PVC>
I bought some Phos-guard and then read on your site about leaching aluminum into the water. I should have read first... Can I use this short term to lower my phosphate or should I get rid of it and get the recommended Rowa-Phos?
<You can use either... Lanthanum is even better>
On the protein skimmer limewood blocks, can I just buy a couple and let them dry out alternating the one in use, or do I need to discard and replace them as they clog up?
<They do become saturated w/ time/exposure>
It seems to produce quite a bit of dark green nasty stuff.
Thanks for your advice.
Wes
<Welcome. BobF>

My MBU Puffer stop eating, please help! 5/1/13
Hi,
<Daisy>
I have a MBU Puffer around 15 cm long. Since last 2 weeks. it stop eating, but its belly is round and it keeps deep breathe. and it always stay in the bottle of the tank. my tank is 180 L big.
<Won't be large enough in time; maybe not now>
there are not too many fishes in it. I changed 1/4 water every 2 weeks or 3 weeks. I don't know what's wrong with it. Can you please help me to heal it? I attached its pictures in the email.
Thanks a lot
daisy
<Need more information: re water quality, what you're feeding, and more.
This specimen seems "bummed out" (depressed); very common. Do read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/MbuPuffHlthF.htm
and the linked files above, particularly "System FAQs" and "Feeding". Bob Fenner>

Re: My MBU Puffer stop eating, please help! 5/1/13
Hi,
Thank you for your email.
<Welcome>
I feed conch and shell to my MBU puffer.
<.... read where you've been referred. B>
Usually when it see the shell in my hand, it will knock the tank glass with its teeth and open its mouth to eat it.
Now it doesn't pay any attention on the conch or shell. what can I do for it?
Hope to hear from you soon.
Daisy

Cory catfish types and angels, comp./env., terr. 5/1/13
Hello:
<Judy>
Just wondering if Cory trillis can be kept with angelfish in about 78-79F.
<Mmm, yes; one caveat that the Angels might damage the Corydoras if they pair up, spawn>
The temp can go a little higher in the summer in the tank. The LFS here has the Trillis variety and the Julii variety. They had the Sterbai catfish, but I haven't seen them in a while. Thank you
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Discoloration in my fish. 5/1/13
I have a flame tail blenny that has lost a lot of its color.

The whole fish looks like the bottom part of the head.
What's up with that. It happened in hours.
<Mmm; either very frightened, or possibly stung by something>
It had a slight discoloration several days ago but it was over by the next day.
<Ah yes; behavioral changes in coloration can change very rapidly>
Do I need to do a big water change?
<Is anything else mal-affected in the system?>
Or is it a sickness?
<Not likely>
I have not been able to find anything wrong with the water quality. But maybe I'm not checking for the right thing.
<I'd just remain vigilant/observant. Bob Fenner>

Re: Discoloration in my fish. 5/1/13
> Can hammer oral cause that?
<Oh yes>
It went back to almost normal already.
Sometimes the food gets stuck under the hammer I got sitting on the sand.
It usually does not go near the anemones.
<... best not>
Some of the fish taken to scratching on the sand. Out of the coral the polyp zoos look worst for wear and the algae is growing where it can get stuck to something. I was told that's normal for a coral tank because of the strong lights. I test ph ammonia phosphate and nitrite nitrate. Being a color deficient person I can't read the exact readings. But I take a sample to the lfs. And they tell me that everything other than ammonia is at 0 and ammonia is between .25ppm an 0
<So? You might want to invest in a "meter" approach to these tests, testing. B>

Marine Ich vulnerability/different strains 5/1/13
Hi again Bob,
<Jim>
Hope you are well! I have a question regarding susceptibility of tangs and variations of Ich pathogens.
<Ahh! A very interesting topic>
I recently bought an Achilles tang which I know are susceptible to Ich, however he had been in a qt tank at my lfs for 8 weeks which also runs a copper treatment throughout the system.
<Still...>
My own DT stock showed no signs of Ich, however I am not assuming the pathogen isn't present but there is an immunity within the fish stock already there?
<All, and always to a degree>
However, since the introduction of the Achilles he has now showing Ich.
This has then resulted in my own stock showing to a lesser extent, <Not uncommon... could be the Crypt was/is resident in your system (very common)>
Could this be due to a strain he is not immune to within my system?
<To a (lesser) possibility/likelihood; yes>
Is the Ich pathogen somewhat like the common cold in that it can mutate from one fish to another?
<Again; an interesting speculation. I don't know, but have read such mumbling in scientific papers>
So could a previously Ich free fish which is introduced as Ich free, to a system which has Ich free stocks, develop Ich from an ever present strain, to which existing stocks are immune, mutate said strain, thus causing existing stocks to become susceptible and show signs?
<This I would/will answer w/ a resounding affirmative: Yes; have observed MANY times>
Would the pathogen be a close enough mutation that good water and quality food would overcome said infection or would hypo be needed?

All stock is showing a healthy appetite. I have read the above which I hope makes sense!
<Some confusing change in tense in the fourth sentence; but no worries. I know what you're getting at>
Highest regards
Jim
<And you, Bob Fenner>

Neale and Bob on Heniochus acuminatus 4/29/13
Hello Bob,
So tell me, why is Heniochus acuminatus called the "Poor Man's Moorish Idol".
<Less money...>>
> Is it not the "Wise Man's Moorish Idol"?
<Ahh! My fave name (Deutschen) translates from Wimpelfisch... as in the tall feather in some hats>
> I was under the impression Moorish Idols did poorly in aquaria.
<Oh yes... and the ones that live are quarrelsome>
> Cheers, Neale
<And you, B>

Slow bleaching and slow tissue necrosis (SPS hlth. f') 4/29/13
Hello all this is a question for a friend who has about had enough and we have exhausted all options from many experienced reefers. His system consists of a 210g display a 75g sump a 40g refugium, and two 40g breeder frag tanks. Obviously water volume is not an issue! He has several hundred pounds of live rock and biopellets for nitrate reduction used in conjunction with zeobak.
<The usual admonition/s re mixing chemical technologies; inclusive of rust/GFO use here>
Chemistry is as follows:
Ammonia (NH3-4) Good 0.01 mg/L
Nitrite (NO2) Good 0.005 mg/L
Phosphate (PO4) Good 0.17 mg/L
Nitrate (NO3) Good 0.5 mg/L
Silica (Sio2-3) High 1 mg/L
Potassium (K) Low 122 mg/L
<Ok>
Ionic Calcium (Ca) Good 132 mg/L
Molybdenum (Mo) High 0.3 mg/L
Strontium (Sr) Good 7.5 mg/L
Magnesium (Mg) Low 875 mg/L
<Too low and out of balance w/ [Ca]>
Iodine (I) Good 0.07 mg/L
Copper (Cu) Good 0.01 mg/L
Alkalinity (meq/L) Good 2.5 meq/L
Total Calcium (Ca) Good 350 mg/L
<As above w/ Mg>
These numbers are slightly lower than when issues started to occur as the calcium reactor was taken offline. Flow is provided in the display by three mp40s and two Mag drive 1800gph pumps. The frag tanks employ two JBJ powerheads on a Wavemaker in conjunction with the return pump from the sump. The refugium employs Chaeto and it has good growth and needs to be harvested bi weekly. Lighting on the display consists of three 250w hqi halides with phoenix bulbs and four actinic t5 bulbs. The frag tanks have one 150w hqi radium bulb and a 4 ft 6 bulb t5. Sps corals are struggling
<Understandably>
under all flow conditions and all lighting from 80 par to 400 par nothing is happy regardless of placement. The inhabitants consist of several fish including three tangs two bluejaw triggers and a handful of smaller fish.
Corals include sps such as Birdsnests, Montipora, Acropora, digis, etc..
all are being affected. This tank is a mixed reef so many lps corals such as frog spawn, Duncans, chalices etc... also inhabit the tank but many lps are doing well with the exception of chalices.
<Good clue>
Very few softies but many species of Zoanthids and Palythoas exist in the tank along with a few mushroom corals
<The winners in this mix>
here and there but no large colonies of mushrooms are present. No leathers, large anemones, or other really noxious softies exist in the system.
<The Zoanthids and Corallimorpharians are enough here>
A reef octopus Diablo cone skimmer is set to wet skim and Bulk reef ROX carbon is employed on the system and changed regularly. Gfo is also used but only on an as needed basis. Currently the biopellets have been off of the system for a few weeks and the ROX was pulled offline as well to see if an excess of carbon sources was causing rtn but a recent experiment showed that newly introduced sps including two Acroporas and one Monti cap bleached and rtn'd after 6 days. They begin by bleaching then slowly lose tissue until the coral is gone. It should also be mentioned that temp is consistent around 79 degrees and monitored by an apex same with ph. No large swings have been noticed. I am at a loss for why this is happening. Any insight you could provide would be much appreciated.
Thanks!
Zach
<Appears to be a mix of the chemical filtrants used, the low, out of proportion alkaline earths, and likely a cascade allelopathogenic effect at play here... I'd move either the SPS or the Zoas, Shrooms... and ditch all
but one of the three chem. filtrants use. Bob Fenner>
Re: Slow bleaching and slow tissue necrosis 4/29/13
See but that doesn't make sense because I employ bio pellets, a ZEOvit reactor, ZEOvit additives minus Zeo start(carbon source) GFO and carbon and a refugium.
<Different mixes (of livestock), differing results>
Plus all of the other additives in the Zeo line and I have large colonies of Zoanthids/Palys as well as large very colorful sps in a system more than half the size of the 210 listed above. I have been running this system this way for two years and corals have almost become a problem because of constant pruning. Here is a top down of my system not the one with problems listed above. [URL=
http://s1208.photobucket.com/user/zachkeys/media/056_zps561282b5.jpg.html][IMG] http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc362/zachkeys/056_zps561282b5.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
outside of your initial response is there anything you notice that could be triggering bleaching and stn. We have thought of warfare but as most of his corals as very small colonies in a large body of water it seems unlikely.
Zeo start is just a bacterial strain that keeps the tank from a mono culture when processing the bio pellets and GFO is only used when biological process's cant keep up with p04 reduction. Not trying to be a pain just trying to find something we haven't already thought of and tested.

Many very successful hobbyists have had a crack at this and cant seem to find the problem which is why we are turning to a much more experienced source. Thank you for the speedy response again and if you see anything else that could be the issue it would be much appreciated. Thanks again
Zach
<We need better tools... to much more simply test for carbon (esp. 5 ring) compounds... Perhaps years later. BobF>
Re: Slow bleaching and slow tissue necrosis
We are isolating the zoanthids as most are in the two 40g breeders we will also isolate the 5 mushrooms in the display.
<Mmm, they really should come out, go elsewhere>
The livestock has all come from my system and coexists very well in mine but obviously something is awry in his tank.
<Yes; happens quite often... my fave term "cascade event"... "Something/s" triggering conflict, release of fighting chemicals>
For the interests of helping other hobbyists we will send our findings in a few weeks. As stated the biopellets are offline now and have been for a while and zeo supplementation has been suspended. Calcium reactor is offline and two part is being employed to be able to specifically manipulate calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium. We are switching from ROX carbon to small particle lignite as it has been stated that some carbon does not work well in a nutrient poor system and can have adverse effects.
<Yes>
We have also turned off the skimmer for the time being to see if low nutrients may be a factor.
<Good>
Nitrogen compounds and P04 will be monitored and when it has risen we will continue skimming again and employ water changes and/or gfo if necessary. Just writing this so when it goes on your site others can see how we approached the problem and possibly gain some insight.

We are also doing another water change on his system today but rather than use freshly mixed salt water like we have been we will use water taken from my system.
<Ahh!>
Previously we have employed large water changes to see if it would help the system right itself to no avail hence using water from an established system as the source of replenishment. All water is ro/di checked with a frequently calibrated tds meter. Thank you for your
help if you do think of something else we could use all the input possible.
Sincerely Zach Keys

Re: cichlid ID 4/29/13
> Hi Bob, Neale, Never got the photo. After checking the FAQ's I guess the person figured it out. But still never saw the photo on the FAQ's page. Chuck
> <Thank you Chuck. B>
Re: cichlid ID 4/29/13
Hmm… no… got a reply from Ad Konings via Mary Bailey, so took the message out of your (Chuck's) folder.
Cheers, Neale
<Yes. B>

Ask; looking for Antoine 4/29/13
Good day,
<Salud>
I would like to Anthony Calfo send a cover letter and invitation to a new forum has been created in Spain. I have an email address readingtrees@yahoo.com, but I think it is old. Can you give me an e-mail to contact or send my mail.
A greeting and thank you very much.
<This is the only one I have as well. Am given to understand he's working as a retail clerk at Elmer's Tropicals in Pittsburgh, PA... Bob Fenner>
Re: Ask 4/29/13
Thanks, for the information..
<Ah, welcome. BobF>

Re: coral fluorescence - Thank you... H. crispa hlth., comp. 4/30/13
Thank you both for responding to me. I read a little bit each day on a myriad of subjects. Everyone here has an amazing amount of knowledge. One last question if I may (or two, or three... ). I have seen some amazing pictures online of Sebaes brought back from the brink. I cannot tell however if the green sheen mine has means it will be green once Zooxanthellae return.
<Usually "the sheen" is telling. Many anemones begin or re-begin brownish from white... but can/do reincorporate Zooxanthellae that are capable of adopting pigments of a few hues>
Also assuming I do well with this one, I will likely want a couple others of differing color. Some say that because it is not a clone they will fight but others just say not to mix species.
<Best not to; or to take a long time (months) approach of housing separately, mixing water between systems to acclimate them to each other>
I would think that the chemicals given off by two corals or anemones of the same species would be the same.
<Mmm, no; not the case... each individual, as with humans, have a distinct chemical signature>
Wouldn't they be immune then to each other's allelopathic chemicals and or stings?
<They are not unfortunately. Some species are FAR more dominant than others. Bob Fenner>

Re: Turboflotor 1000 Question 4/30/13
Hi Nate. I installed the caps to regulate the flow as per the instructions.
The cup did fill faster. I removed the muffler from the air intake and installed an adjustable air regulator valve that I used for drip acclimation. The foam level is about 1/4 of the way up the cone now and has held that level for about 22 hours. I only have a few centimeters of yellowish brown liquid in the bottom of the cup. What is "ideal" level to have this set at? I want to make sure I'm getting as much gunk out of the water as possible. Hopefully I have this dialed in and now it's just a waiting game.
<Sounds like its getting much better. You can also try making the air intake tube longer instead of using the valve. -NateG>
Thanks,
Shea

Gaping mouth of new sebae anemone? 4/30/13
Hi! I have an issue with my Sebae anemone. My boyfriend really wanted it, from Petco, as he was in love with how it was white
<Bleached... this specimen has lost its (necessary) Zooxanthellae... Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/sebaeandisf3.htm
and blue tipped. So, I bought it. Our aquarium is about 5 months old now I want to say, and is 29 gallons.
<... not likely to live here. Read the linked files above the citation>
We have everything from pH, ammonia, nitrite and our salinity of the water at perfect levels. We have had our nitrate levels as high as 20, but we are working on lowering that as we have bought some new things to hopefully fix that issue.
<See WWM re NO3 reduction... many methods are more trouble than useful>
Water changes haven't lowered the nitrate levels for some reason. Anyways, our Sebae anemone isn't exactly what I expected.
During the night, it's perfect and beautiful! The tank is totally dark at night. However, when the lights go on in the morning? It's begins to shrink up.
<Yes>
The anemone does seem to be eating when fed krill.
<... see.... needs more/other than this>
The other issue is the gaping mouth. It's always wide open, and I know it's not a good thing, but I don't know what it could indicate really. Would you suggest that we return the anemone to the store?
<Yes>
I'm not even sure they will take it back.
<Mmm, check re your State... most compel such>
What would you suggest I do?
<Read>
Our clown has hosted to it, and I feel bad removing it if it comes down to it. Again, anemone looks very healthy in the dark, just not during the day with lights. The white color has turned to a dirty light brown too, which I have read is a good thing. I look forward to your reply!

Banggai Cardinal; stkg./sel., comp. 4/30/13
The more I read the more I'm beginning to wonder if I should add two more of these fish to my tank. Right now I just have the one plus two Percularis clowns.
My tank is a 29 gallon Biocube.
<Mmm, may well bicker (to too large a degree) in such a small volume.
T'were it me, mine, I'd just stick w/ the single one>
Right now it seems quite peaceful in the tank, but would the addition of two more of these Banggai overwhelm the tank?
<See WWM re their compatibility>
Would adding only a second be asking for trouble? Any suggestions would be helpful, thanks!!
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

coral fluorescence; lighting for a 120, 24" depth 4/26/13
I am getting ready to upgrade my lighting. I am going for a 1000 watt MH setup over my 2.5 gallon pico.
<Heeeeee! Liquid lava!>
I can't wait to see the growth I will get then! Seriously though I am considering either 250 watts or more likely 400 watts as I have a Sebae anemone
<Not in a few gallons>
which at the moment is bleached but has settled in and in the week I have had it I see a marked difference in its appearance and its food response. I also want a Crocea or Maxima clam or two at some point. Anyway the question I would like to ask is whether or not corals can be seen fluorescing at depths where the light is mostly blue?
<Oh yes; can be done>
I am having a hard time deciding if I want bluer bulbs or if I want to stick with 10k's or even 6500k's.
<Some are useful for this... see WWM re "actinic/blue" light/s>
I love the fluorescence but I also want as natural looking a tank as possible too.
<Mmm; well... a trade-off>
I may just supplement with actinics so I can view the fluorescence at night and in the morning like a sunrise effect.
<Oh! Possible>
Either way the upgrade is going to happen in a couple weeks. I have175's now and I know they are not going to work with the Sebae and Maximas and or Croceas. Thank you for all you put into this site. It has already taught me volumes.
<Be chatting, Bob Fenner>
coral fluorescence 4/26/13
I forgot to tell you the depth of my tank is 24" and it is a 120 gallon tank. I wanted to know if you think I should go with 250s or 400s with the animals I have and want to keep? Thank you as always.
<Three 250's is what I'd go with. Likely w/ some specialized fluorescents... Or do a bit of reading/searching re recent LED technology.
Am cc'ing our James Gasta here re his resp. Bob Fenner>
Coral Fluorescence 4/29/13
<<Hello James,
Bob has asked me to respond to your email.>>
I forgot to tell you the depth of my tank is 24" and it is a 120 gallon tank. I wanted to know if you think I should go with 250s or 400s with the animals I have and want to keep? Thank you as always.
<Three 250's is what I'd go with.
<>
Likely w/ some specialized fluorescents... Or do a bit of reading/searching re recent LED technology.
<<If it were me, I would seriously consider LED lighting over this tank.
In the long run it is much less money. With energy savings and no yearly lamp replacement costs, the savings will pay for the LEDs and they offer high PAR (depending on brand) and the proper spectrum that corals/anemones best respond to. Another factor is low heat which requires no fans or chillers.
James (Salty Dog)>>

Re: difficulty planning for new build's pump/plumbing sizes 4/29/13
All three bulkheads will be drilled into the bottom of the tank, yes.
<Good. This will remove about 3 ft of head by not having the tank drilled in rear>
I am looking for a very clean look with this tank so I don't want any pluming showing behind the tank, etc. I plan on the plumbing coming up through the floor behind the wall then through the wall behind the tank and directly into the stand and up. The return will come through the overflow box up high then split into 2...I assume I will need to put a siphon break
on that somehow.
<Only if you are not planning on having the outputs by the surface of the water>
This is so incredibly helpful, I can hardly thank you enough.
Any other insightful tidbits you want to pass along? :D
<Most welcome. Have fun! -NateG>

Turboflotor 1000 Question, op. 4/29/13
Hello Crew!!!
<Hiya Shea>
I have a question for one of you. I just purchased a Turboflotor 1000 and it has been up and running for over 24 hours now. The problem is, I'm getting a lot of clear bubbles that are filling my collection cup. The cup fills in about 30-45 minutes. I have made no modifications to the pump or air intake. The water level is an inch or two below the collection cup.
<The water level in the sump or within the skimmer?>
The water intake pump is a Rio 800+. Any tips on what I can do to get this thing skimming? Or could this just be part of the initial break in period?
They say to expect it to do this for 4-12 hours.
<Is the skimmers output open all the way? Have you tried turning down the Rio? Could you send a picture of the skimmer set up? -NateG>
Thanks,
Shea
Re: Turboflotor 1000 Question 4/29/13
Hi Nate, thanks for the reply. The water level in the sump is about 5.5 inches.
<Hm. I was hoping that it was much higher. Would be an easier explanation as to the overflowing. Hm...>
I have the Rio turned down quite a bit. I did notice last night that my water return hose to the main display was kinked. After I addressed that issue the skimmer quit filling up quite so fast.
<K good. Take a look into reinforced vinyl hose if this continues to be an issue>
I also added a cap to the air intake tube. Not sure what it is called. it came with my old hang on CPR skimmer.
<Its a muffler of sorts.>
It now takes a couple of hours for it to fill up. I have attached some pictures. Also, one of my down flow tubes is not draining as quick as the other. I checked for an instruction but there doesn't appear to be anything there. I did not install the adjustment caps because the directions say that it works better without them.
<I'm curious to see what might happen should you add the adjustment caps.
Judging by the pictures in the manual it may actually fill the cup faster.
But worth a shot.>
Thanks,
Shea Carey
<Something that can really mess with the consistent performance of a skimmer, is the depth of the water in which it sits. It is quite ideal for that water level to be constant/stable. -NateG>

Re: cichlid ID 4/29/13
Hi Bob, Neale, Never got the photo. After checking the FAQ's I guess the person figured it out. But still never saw the photo on the FAQ's page. Chuck
<Thank you Chuck. B>
Re: Cichlid questions 4/29/13
Many thanks Neale, Mary, and all the rest for the advice and identification - you've done a lot to put my mind at ease that I don't have an imminent war in the tank :). I think I'm going to just leave well enough alone with the exception of getting the cats out of there and into a new tank. Since my tropical tank has an ever growing number of guppies in it it'll be just the excuse I need to set up an all catfish tank (Corys, upside-downs, and Ancistrus I'm thinking).
<Do note my warning re: S. nigriventris and fancy Guppies…>
I've fallen in love with the cichlids - I think I've spent almost as much time watching them this weekend as my cat has - so I'm very glad to hear that things should work pretty well as they are.
Thank you again for the help in responding to my questions and for having such a wonderful resource available.
Chris
<Most welcome, Neale.>

2 New Maroon Clown fish, beh. 4/29/13
Hi,
I have just added 2 maroon clowns to my 500ltr. 40kgs of cured live rock, 70ltr sump with skimmer, uv, the tank has been running for 5 weeks and all water test are good, 0ppm Ammonia,0ppm Nitrite, 1ppm nitrate. I have done 1x25ltr water change every week. (no other fish, only CUC)I added them as my first fish today.
They where sold as a pair, 1 is 4x the size of the other and much darker in colour to the smaller 1…
after adding them to the tank the larger 1 has moved to the top Conner of the tank behind a power head and will not move.
I tried to feed them after, the smaller 1 is eating with no problems but the larger 1 is not interested.
As i am new to marines I am worried that there my be a problem, or something I've done wrong.
I spent about 2hrs acclimating them to my tank water and all seemed good during that time, but after adding them I was worried I my have added them to soon.
There was no sign of stress and they both had a swim around there new tank at first.
The smaller 1 will not leave the others side as well, is this normal?
<Not abnormal... Clownfish species do hide, stay about their "hosts" in the wild and captivity... This one will work itself in w/ time. Bob Fenner>
Kind regards
Andy

Brief enquiry for wetwebmedia.com 4/29/13
Hi,
I have read this page of your site and I find it very interesting and informative.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/fwsoftness.htm
If it is okay with you I would like to add a relevant resource that will be useful to your readers.
It would be a very simple text link that is not promotional and will point to a page related to your topic.
Of course I would be happy to compensate you for your time and effort if this is something we are able to work out.
Let me know if this would interest you and I will send you the complete details of my proposal.
Kind Regards,
Paige Venn
Webmaster
Send along this text link for review. Bob Fenner

WetWebMedia, FOWLR, 55 gal. set up and stocking 4/29/13
Greetings WWM people! Thanks for sharing your expertise.
<Welcome Wes>
I have several questions that after much reading on your site are still questions. If these are well answered already, please help me with the proper search terms as I am a beginner and they are often not obvious to me.
<Will do>
I have a custom tank that was a hand me down from my sister after being in storage for 10 years and she doesn't remember how it was set up. I've tried to figure it out and set it up properly from reading here and other places. It has a closed top which makes it well suited to housing my eel. I use rubber stoppers with slots to run cables and airline through the holes in the back but not allow the little fellow to escape.
<A good idea>
It is a 55 gallon tank. It has a built in box filter, in the main tank. I have attached a picture with some labels. There is an overflow section (a) that drains to a section for the heater (b). Then the flow goes into an air powered limewood block
<Do test this block for blockage on a regular interval (weekly)... Needs to be switched out for dry ones as it clogs>
protein skimmer with a whisper 40 (c), and then on to a section with sponge pre filter, carbon bags, and poly floss before hitting a return pump (d). I don't know what media was originally in it, but based on my experience with my freshwater tank canister filter for my Cichlids I have arranged the media this way.
<Is fine>
The return pump output has a tap on it, and about 1/10 of the flow is diverted to the middle section of the filter that goes through a bubble trap (e) into the bottom of a column that contains 5 Liters of Seachem Matrix (f). The connection between (c) and (d) goes under (f), and (f) has a standpipe that returns into (b). The return pump is small, I estimate it at 250gph. I have purchased a Tunze 1073.020 to try to increase the flow but haven't put it in yet.
<I'd use the Tunze (just) in the main tank for circulation itself... the filter pump is fine as it is>
I've never seen anything like this filter and it seems to work well. I placed two Koralia circulation pumps in the tank. One is a 425 on the back of the tank near the sand aimed at the front of the tank and one is a 1050 opposing the flow of the filter return near the top from the opposite side.
Question: does this filtration and flow seem adequate?
<Yes; with the addition of the Tunze for in-tank circulation>
I cycled this tank with 10 lbs of live rock, another 10 lbs of live rock that had been dried out (dead rock?)<Sure>, a 25lb piece of Texas holey rock, 1" of fine aragonite sand and a few pieces of ornamental dead coral. I set it up in late December 2012 and let it cycle for 6 weeks with a few live bait shrimp from the coast. I haven't read of people doing this, hopefully it was not a mistake.
<Is fine>
The shrimp were eventually food for the fish. I believe they were brown shrimp. They lived in the tank for a month until I was sure it had cycled and bought my fish. I never saw a huge spike of anything, but did see minor fluctuations of ammonia, then nitrite, then nitrate rose. I waited a few more weeks to make sure ammonia and nitrite stayed low, and they did.
Livestock:
· Snowflake moray: 10" long and 1/2" diameter
· Flame angel
· Orange back fairy wrasse
· Skunk cleaner shrimp -the Valentini and eel didn't eat him.
<Surprising>
· Foxface Lo (realizing from reading my tank is small for this guy, he is 5" long now and seems very happy. Preparing myself for trading him in if/when he appears stressed out. I’d miss him though. He also won’t be very easy to catch. I’m aware that they are poisonous.)
<Ah yes>
Question: should I rehome the Foxface right away, or wait until he shows signs of stress.
<Is fine for now>
He is bright and yellow and seems happy. He only shows distressed colors when I am moving things around in the tank or cleaning it. I thought he was OK for my tank but must have confused him with a one spot or some other fish. Everything I read says >100 gallons for these guys.
<Yes; larger is better>
· Until a week ago, I also had a Valentini puffer. He had been eating well and seemed very happy.
I never noticed any lumps or wounds on him, but he started eating a little less and I noticed he wasn't fanning his pectoral fin as much on one side. I also noticed him spending more time resting in the corner on the tank wall where he normally sleeps. He was eating, though and I saw him pass waste a few times so I thought he would be fine. Two days later he was stuck to my Koralia 1050 pump and couldn't get off of it. I immediately moved him to a 5 gallon tank by himself and added some Epsom salt and an air stone. He was able to swim somewhat erratically but it was too late and he quickly died. I suspect internal parasites but really have no clue.
<Can't tell>
Question: do you suspect worms/parasites? If so should I dose the rest of my fish with PraziPro or other meds? I hate not knowing what happened.

The tank water parameters good. I have stepped up water changes to 5-10 gallons a week to vacuum out sand and brush down rock as I am battling a Cyano outbreak.
<Mmm, search re the Texas holey rock... this can sometimes be problematical re soluble phosphate... You can take out, boil in some freshwater and measure for HPO4>
I try to mechanically remove as much as possible from the tank. After leaving the tank lights off for 3 days it is much less prolific. Gradually increasing light hours now.
Here's what the last 5 weeks of water tests have looked like:
Ph: 8.2
dKH ~8
Sg 1.022
<Low; take care changing with the shrimp>
Ammo 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 5-10
Temp 78-79
Even before I started the aggressive water changing, the nitrate stayed below 10 with 10 gallon changes of LFS rodi mixed saltwater every 3-4 weeks. I took this to mean that my filter and feeding habits are ok.
Food:
Every other day I feed New Life Spectrum Thera +A 1mm marine pellets and hang one piece of brown and one piece of green Ocean Nutrition algae sheets on clips. Everyone except the eel eats the pellets, and the Foxface gets most of the sheet algae.
On the alternate day I feed PE-Mysis thawed in a little tank water and 5-10 drops of Vita Chem marine vitamin supplement. Again, everyone but the eel eats this. The eel gets stick fed a quarter size shrimp cut in 5 pieces or 1-2 silversides, also thawed in vitamins and tank water. He only gets fed every other day. I also add 8 drops of Kent Marine iodide to the tank a few times a week.
I'd like to get a new valentini puffer but want to make absolutely sure my tank is free from parasites that might infect him first, and have a QT setup and procedure first. I can take a bunch of matrix from my main tank filter and use that in the QT filter easily.
Question: How long should I wait for species specific parasites to die off before trying to get a new puffer?
<Mmm... well, no waiting necessary; but a Sharpnose may nip your eel, eat the shrimp...>
I'm really just guessing at cause of death here anyway. How would I figure out if a fish has internal parasites if they seem healthy otherwise? The puffer seemed in perfect health for more than 2 months.
<Only way to proceed (currently) re such fears is to prophylactically treat during isolation/quarantine, ahead of introduction to the main/display>
I was planning on a qt with the recommended cycle of PraziPro and 1.015 SG for a new puffer for 3 weeks before adding him to my main tank.
<Oh!>
I read about QT on WWM and although I haven’t before, I plan on QT for any new additions to this tank. I’m not sure if I should treat the main tank first though.
<Again; I wouldn't. More downside than it's worth>
Since the puffer died I am worried. I didn't QT anybody originally because all went in together initially. I only have a 5 gallon tank for QT. Question: is that too small for one little Toby?
<Really, yes>
If so I could get a 10 or bigger if needed.
I understand that Bob warns of massive worm die-off messing up water quality when Prazi dosing a tank with sand and live rock. I have a very shallow sand bed now due to the Cyano battles and vacuuming it out, and I could remove the live rock if needed, but this could cause issues with die-off too I would think if it was out of the tank for a long time submerged in a bucket. I would rather not add any treatments to the tank, as from what I've read on WWM there are always unintended consequences to their use. So far haven't used any treatments for Cyano, hopefully I can win by cleaning it up manually eventually.
<Yes>
Question: should I wait and watch for signs of illness in the main tank or treat it with PraziPro?
<... last time, no trtmt.>
Thanks for your help! Sorry this email was rather long.
Wes
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>

Pockets of sand turning black beneath SHALLOW sand bed 4/29/13
Hello crew,
<Sarah>
First, just wanted to say thank you for all the great info on this site! I rely on WWM and Bob Fenner's books for reliable info, so I hoped you could help me with my question.

I have a shallow sand bed in my reef tank (perhaps 2"). I noticed recently that the sand in one of the back corners of my tank has turned black in pockets beneath the surface (see pic, which is quite zoomed-in).

I've heard of this happening when hydrogen sulfide builds up in DSBs, but I have no idea how it happened in such a shallow sand bed.
<Can do so>
I normally vacuum my sand bed when I do water changes, but this area in the back corner seems to have been neglected.
<Ah yes>
I've been told that under no circumstances should I disturb this spot by vacuuming the substrate, or I will release the toxic buildup and kill everything in my tank.
<Not likely; no. I would vacuum here>
I hope this is not true. Would you advise vacuuming/cleaning the sand in this spot?
<Yes I do>
Thank you so much for any insight you can offer-- I'm terrified that this is going to end in a tank crash! :(
<Not to worry. With the vacuuming, most all the material in question, of danger, will be removed. Bob Fenner>

Re Guys I need advise/help/decisions on Lighting, fluor. 4/29/13
Hey Salty getting back to you about that light bulb you wanted me to swap.
<OK>
Salty if I get that blue you recommended that would put me with two blue in my fixture. I only have two bulbs in my zoo med. I have the blue actinic Coralife 10,000 T5 HO bulb and if I get another blue as you suggest that will leave me with no white???? I am confused.
<A Coralife 10K is not what I would call a blue actinic unless you erred in your description "Coralife Blue Actinic 10,000K". The UV 14K lamp will look more like a crispy white/blue, will not appear real blue to your eyes.>
I want to do soft corals Salty. Oh btw, I lost my anemone to a filter intake tube suck up .......
<Not uncommon at all.>
I was on vacation and hub had NO idea what to look for inside my tank, it's my fault, I never should have gone with a anemone in this small tank with two corals fcs.......I loved that darn thing, I had fed it twice and it was thriving.........I just don't listen, I am bad and I felt horrid losing that damn thing. Thanks again for the light bulb response. Julie ; - (

Live rock and dreaded hitchhiker crabs; comp./control 4/29/13
Hi folks!!!!! Loving all the forums, and your help and suggestions for my specific questions have been invaluable!
But, here goes: 29 Biocube, parameters good, 20 pounds of live rock.
Livestock is: two Percularis clowns, one Banggai Cardinal, and a Fireshrimp.
Unfortunately though the live rock came with its fair share of hitchhikers.
We thought we had gotten all crabs out, but to my horror found two more today. We pulled the chunk out, and attempted to do away with the intruders. Traps never worked,
<Try other traps, baits>
and we always had to resort to poking them with a coat hanger.
Well, this time we had to take drastic measures and freshwater dip the chunk of rock. And instead of two crabs, we came away with six!!!!!! The rock was only in the water for about 30 seconds. And we took saltwater from our tank and let it soak afterward. We did away with the saltwater it soaked in once we were finished and had cleaned our tank up a bit.
Now comes the part where you folks chastise me and tell me how many things I did wrong!!! Everyone in the tank seems fine, still doing their fishy/shrimpy thing. Should I expect something bad to happen in the next few hours?!! Help!!!!!
<You're doing fine. Not to worry. Bob Fenner>

Tank Stocking 4/29/13
Crew,
<Paul>
I think I am ready to start stocking my 90gal reef tank!! I just have a few questions if that is ok?
<Certainly>
The display tank its 90gal with a 4" DSB along with roughly 100lbs of mixed dry/live rock which most of it should be cured by now. The sump/refugium is 30gal tank with 4" DSB and live rock/rubble in one of the chambers with a reef octopus nwb 110 skimmer and 2 heaters. The current inhabitants are 3 green Chromis and 1 lawnmower blenny that snuck in on a piece of live rock . For corals I have one of each of the following small frags: strawberry Blastomussa, green/purple Acan, frogspawn, 1 green hairy mushroom and a rock covered in some sort of Zoanthids that are not pretty or interesting.
I have read over most the FAQ's on WetWeb and this is what I figured out for fairly reef safe:
Nassarius Snails - 6-10
Sand Sifting Star - 1
Is it ok to have both the snails and the starfish to turn the sand over?
<Yes>
Watchman Goby and Pistol Shrimp - 1
6 Line Wrasse - 1
Japanese Swallowtail Angelfish - 1
Coral Beauty or Flame angel - 1
I know its hit or miss with either of these and reef tanks or any dwarf angel for that matter, I would like your thoughts on these or avoid them all together.
<I'd leave out the Genicanthus here (space, temperament)... just go w/ one of the Centropyges>
I would also like to add a clown fish and an anemone in the future but I need to do more research on the care of anemones. Baby steps I say!
<A good credo>
Any thoughts or suggestions would be very helpful and appreciated.
<You're doing fine here>
Thanks
Paul
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

using sugar to reduce phosphate and nitrate 4/27/13
Hi Crew.
Have you guys ever experimented with using table sugar or vodka to lower levels of phosphate and nitrates?
<Ah, yes... for quite a few years. Both have their limitations; dangers of overdosing>
I was on a couple of blog sites and they were discussing this. Apparently the Germans are doing this. I don't know what nationality has to do with anything, but since the Germans are doing this, this seems like a good thing or a well kept secret.
Thank You
L.Splitter
<Mmm, search on WWM w/ the combination of ingredient and nutrient words.
Bob Fenner>
Re: using sugar to reduce phosphate and nitrate 4/27/13
Thanks Bob. I will do so. Unfortunately I wrote you guys after I had added some table sugar. The pH dropped from 8.4 to 7.6 or there about.
<Yeeikes!>
I corrected it and left for a couple of days and came back to find an Acropora that succumbed to RTN. The pH is still fine, the dKH was around 12.0. Ammonia and nitrite at 0. Nitrate was around 5.0 ppm. Well anyways I'm finished with trying to keep SPS in a small system.
<Hard to do>
Any other coral does fine.
Thanks.
<Cheers, BobF>

Cichlid questions 4/28/13
Hi WWM Crew,
Hope all is well. I've recently inherited a 55 gallon Mbuna tank from my brother-in-law - with twins on the way my sister decided it was time to start cutting back on some things. Unfortunately my brother-in-law's knowledge of the fish seemed to end with "they looked nice." I've tried to do some research online, but found a couple points I could use clarification on. From what I can tell, the current species in the tank are 5 Demasoni,
<Males of this species are extremely aggressive, particularly towards their own species and other fish with similar colours. Multiple females per male will help, as will masses of rockwork, but your aquarium is at the absolute minimum size for this species. Don't be fooled by its small adult size (around 7-8 cm) being half that of regular Mbuna -- in no sense is this a "dwarf" cichlid in terms of personality!>
5 Yellow Lab, 4 Snow White Socolofi, 4 Acei,
<These three are relatively easy-going species often recommended to beginners because they're unlikely to kill one another / anything else kept with them. They're also sufficiently different in looks that the Demasoni should be able to tell they're not their own kind.>
and 3 upside-down cats (Synodontis Nigriventris, I believe).
<These prefer soft to moderately hard, slightly acidic to slightly basic water chemistry. Not really suited to a hard water Mbuna system.>
All of the fish are about 2-2.5 inches in size currently.
<Still pups!>
The tank is currently showing no ammonia, no nitrites, and minimal nitrates (i.e., at the very lower threshold of detection on my kit). Filtration is provided by a Penguin Bio-Wheel (200 GPH) that my brother-in-law had and a spare Fluval 305 (260 GPH) I had available and seeded with some of the material from my tropical tank in hopes of jump-starting its bacteria. With 460 GPH of flow I'm pretty comfortable with the filtration. Now, on to the questions:
1) In general, anything to watch out for with that mix of species? I'd imagine hybridization could be a problem, along with aggression (though I haven't noticed much yet, possibly to do the tank being moved and rearranged).
<See above.>
2) I've read that Synodontis cats in general do well with Mbunas, however, I've also seen in a place or two that Synodontis Nigriventris may be an exception since it prefers different water chemistry. Should I consider relocating them to my 30 gallon tropical community tank? Or should I just assume that since they seem to be doing well that they can stay?
<I'd move them rather than leave them where they are. Synodontis nigriventris is a lovely, peaceful species that does better in quiet communities of small to medium sized fish. It's only flaws are that it's shy (solved by keeping in groups and using floating plants, in which case it rests under those, even in full view) and that it occasionally nibbles at the fins of things like fancy Guppies.>
3) I've also read a fair bit about overstocking to control aggression but haven't seen much about how many fish that actually entails. I did see Mary's rule of thumb formula that would yield about 25 fish in a 50, which seems like a lot to me - though since we're talking about overstocking that well may be the point. Any guidance on that point?
<It's really tricky to define "overstocking" because it's a recipe for disaster if not done right! The aim isn't so much to overstock the tank as such, but to add so many of a given species that it's impossible for any one male to set up a permanent territory. Oddly, if they're frustrated in this, their aggression actually diminishes a bit, presumably because evolution has favoured males that are most aggressive when they have something worth fighting for, not merely randomly aggressive. Anyway, if this was me, I'd remove all of the Demasoni or at least all but one male and 2-3 females; conventional wisdom is that you need something like a dozen Mbuna of any one species in an aquarium to "overstock" it, and your tank just isn't the right size for that. This is the species you need to watch, and overstocking in terms of Demasoni will make overstocking (in the negative sense) this relatively small tank rather easy, so you end up with difficult to manage water parameters. The other, relatively mellow Mbuna should be happy amongst themselves.>
4) As a follow-up to #3, if I should get more, any suggestions for what would work well? Simply add more of the same, maybe bringing them up to 6 of each species? Or are there any other species that would fit in nicely?
<Iodotropheus is a classic "peaceful" Mbuna, so any of those would be worth considering; Iodotropheus sprengerae is the species commonly offered. But yes, you might choose to add a few more of what you have already, but do bear in mind the Socolofi will get fairly big, around 15 cm/6 inches, so your tank is already quite well stocked. You have excellent water quality now… why push it? Many, if not most problems with cichlid health come down to water quality, particularly chronically high nitrate levels.>
Many thanks in advance, I've learned more from your wonderful site over the years than I would have thought possible when I started in the hobby.
Chris
<Thanks for the kind words. Cheers, Neale.>
Cichlid questions 4/28/13
<Chris, I passed your question and my answer along to Mary Bailey, and she offered up a couple alternative (and likely better) bits of advice for you to think upon:
"I'm with you most of the way on what you say, except:
(1)Ps. demasoni is one of those species that behaves like Attila the Hun for some people and is a pussycat for others. I would prefer a suck it and see approach, especially as these are young fishes growing on together and that often produces a less trauma-ridden scenario than communities of adult Mbuna suddenly thrown into one another's company.
(2) My overcrowding strategy isn't based on large numbers of individuals of species but on total number of Mbuna of all species. Back when the strategy was evolved you were lucky if you could obtain a pair of a species, let alone a bunch of them, as we were dealing with wild fishes.
You are in fact more likely to have trouble if you have multiple conspecific males than if you have just one male of a species, because serious fights are more likely where there is intraspecific competition.
The general idea of the crowding is not so much to stop males fighting (heterospecific males don't usually bother) as to stop males pursuing their females to death - the tank is so busy that the females can lose themselves in the crowd and males are less keen on leaving their little patch as they may come back to find it usurped and will have to run the gamut of other males to do any serious chasing."
Hope these additions are useful. Mary knows her stuff. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Cichlid questions 4/28/13
I feel foolish now because I completely forgot the other question I had. I neglected to mention there are several that I have been able to positively identify. Could you take a look and let me know what you think they are?
I've found a couple of pictures online that look close in one way or another so I'm starting to think they may be some kind of hybrid or species that might not be that common in the trade.
Many thanks again
Chris
<Got this from the illustrious Ad Konings, via the ever helpful Mary Bailey: "Almost certainly juvenile of Nimbochromis fuscotaeniatus". So there you go! Nice fish, and Nimbochromis tend to be peaceful, though predatory. Cheers, Neale.>
Cichlid ID 4/28/13
Hello Chuck, Bob:
There's a mystery cichlid photo I've put into Chuck's pigeonhole. I'm not very good at identifying Rift Valley cichlids on sight, though this little Mbuna does look rather familiar. Any thoughts?
Cheers, Neale
Re Cichlid ID 4/28/13
Got me. Chuck? B

goldfish 4/28/13
Hi my comet fantail goldfish is 8 years old in a 55 gallon tank.
<Mmm, Comets need more room>
Water is changed every 4 days. I change 16 gallons and add a conditioner only. Recently, I have been adding 1 tablespoon of aquarium salt per 10 gal.
<Why? See Neale's article on WWM re salt use>
with every water change. Ph I s 8,
<Too high... read WWM re Goldfish care>
nitrate 5 or less and nitrite 0 ammonia 0. I us e api kits. He has had swimbladder problems
<... not... There is no such thing. This is highly likely just one more case of long-term environmental abuse registering as a loss of spatial orientation>
for a long time. I have recently changed to Mazuri food gel.
<A good product>
Seems to be working good for that problem. Lately, he has been losing scales.
<Might be the former mentioned env... whatever is making the pH this high.
See WWM re pH...>
He has lost 5 in the last 2 weeks. Also he has been quivering now and then almost like shivering quickly then it stops. He just swims when it is time
to eat mostly and just stays at one end of the tank about half way up. I gave him penicillin for 1 day per suggestion form aquarium shop
<Of no use here>
and changed the water.
<Always a good idea>
I have never given him any meds before. The reason he was treated with the penicillin was at the time he had very blood red in his caudal fin.
<Environment>
The aquarium shop said not to treat him any more that it is bad for his organs.
<! This is so>
I am at a loss at what to do. He also has swelling on his right side but his left side is more sunken in. Any help would be appreciated. I hope I gave enough info. Thank you so much for any help. He is the only one in the tank.
<Read... re adjusting the pH downward safely, consistently... by mixing water of less alkaline content, the use of simple/safe acids (phosphoric likely), perhaps the addition of floating plants... Bob Fenner>

Re: Betta Stiktos 4/26/13
Okay! Btw, you should join wetwebmediaforum.com. Needs experienced fish keepers. Not too many people active either.

Re: Lump on cardinal tetra. 4/26/13
<<<<I have; many times... Sporozoan/Microsporidean likely; not treatable...
and yes, catching to conspecifics. Might be of use to have a read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/cardinaltets.htm
RMF>>>>
<Bob, thanks for the input and link. Fremi, there we are. Please read the link Bob provided (as I shall), and do quarantine that fish before you have more of this problem You can still take a stab at treatment but as indicated, success is doubtful. - Rick>

Re: Live rock - lowest salinity (RMF, any input here?) 4/26/13
Hi Neale
Thanks very much for that. It's predominantly algae and bacteria I'm after, as it happens, to provide "filtration" and a food source. I'd be looking at 50% salinity, so it definitely sounds worth a try. Will let you know how I get on when the next hatch happens.
Cheers
Gord
<Ah, real good… collecting your own evidence by experimentation! Cheers, Neale.>

Turtle reproduction 4/26/13
Dear Crew,
<Hiya Darrel here>
I have 2 turtles.

The male is just a little over a year old and is 4 inches.
<That's very large for only a year old, more like the size of a 3-4 years old>
The female is my daughters, she is a little under a year old and is 4 inches.
<Your daughter is only 4 inches????>
<Oh wait - you meant the turtle.>
I don't know much about how fast they grow, but that seems to be fast to me. Anyway, my male turtle is now "courting" the female. I find him mounting her often. So my question is, is it absolutely 5 inches and 4-5 years of age before they can reproduce?
<Nope. The years normally stated are relevant only because that's they normal number of years it takes for them to reach the size of maturation. Males mature between 3 to 4 inches and females between 5 and 6 inches -- note, those are also approximations>
I don't want any surprises!!!
<Well, she won’t mature for another inch or two… AND the rate of growth slows with age.>
If need be, I'll make a nesting box so she has the ability to lay eggs. But I'd really like your opinion on this matter. And I'm sure of their ages due to the fact that they were both the size of a quarter when we both got them. My only concern is the health of my turtles! And they've been fed pellets, crickets, earthworms, shrimp, plain cooked chicken, (the male LOVES ham), and tuna. Also duck weed, and foliage. I also provide a turtle bone and add those fortified vitamin sinkables to their tank. They also have their basking light and floating dock. So if you have any information that can help me to understand the reproduction part of this, I would gladly accept it! I've read many different things on it, but it always puts the age up there, but also says its size, not age!!! Thank you ;)
<The sad truth is that the immature female will have to endure the advances of the male for quite a while yet before it becomes something she wants. Hmm … not unlike us humans, huh?>
<As far as general care, there are things I'd change. As much as they like what you're feeding them, it probably isn't as good for them as you think. Koi pellets as a basic staple and an occasional earthworm would best approximate their natural diet.>
< http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm >

Saltwater Tank questions, Sm., RE sales advice 4/26/13
Hello,
<Allison>
I have a 29 gallon saltwater reef tank it's been up and running for about 6 months maybe more now,
and all is going very well, lots of growth and the fish seem happy, I just have 2 issues going on, the first is I've recently noticed my cup coral wasn't opening up during the day,
<Mmm, well; small volumes... are hard to keep consistent, optimized...>
so i started looking at it, and I noticed that worm from the first picture there hanging out under my coral.
It looks like a Bristleworm to me, but I'm not 100% sure, but I was wondering if you guys knew of a way I could get the worm to come out so I can catch it, or have ever had any luck catching those worms with the worm traps?
<... Yes; read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/polychaewmcompfaq2.htm
My other question was about the evergreen star polyp I have, as you can see from the picture it's got what I'm guessing is
<Can't open your pix as attached. If you'd like, re-send as jpgs, other format as listed on how you found to write us>
hair algae growing from it? I'm not sure, but I was wondering if I should pull those off of my coral, because the coral doesn't open in the places where the algae growth is. I pull a little off one side, and it opens well there. But that was a different kind of algae.
Should I pull the rest of this 'algae' off the coral plug or just leave it?
is it harmful?
<... see our listings re algae ID, compatibility, control>
Thank you,
sorry for the long message, but I was hoping to have the tank looking a little better soon as I am showing my house to potential buyers
<Ahh! Do make baked goods. Cookies are great>
and they are all very intrigued by my tanks.
Also,
Sorry if the pictures are blurry and hard to see, if they are I can try and take better ones.
Allison
<Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Saltwater Tank questions
<Oh! Did see/open your images... this/these are likely diatoms and/or Dinoflagellates... Do search/read re on WWM. BobF>

Is this a bloodworm? 4/26/13
I've recently (last few months) started building a freshwater tank - the last one I had was taken down due to moving to FL, and the fish given to a LFS (I haven't gotten any new fish yet). I was kayaking last week and noticed some *Egeria *type plants*,* and grabbed some to start a planted tank. I kept them out of the tank until today to make sure there weren't any snail hitchhikers, and today I put them in my tank. As I was cleaning up and about to throw out some plant debris, I noticed little tiny red worm-like things flailing around in the plant matter on my kitchen counter.
After freaking out a bit, I Google searched to see if I could figure out what they are - they are probably in the tank since I didn't notice them until *after* most of the plants went in the tank. I'm assuming they are bloodworms, but could you double check my identification?
<Could be a Chironomid... an insect larval stage of some sort>
I'd hate to have any eventual fish I get subjected to a parasite I pulled out of a river.
Thank you!
Chelsea
<Welcome. There's always a chance of introducing trouble/s w/ such wild collecting... Better to run all new material through a few weeks of
isolation/quarantine, before introduction to your main/display system. Bob Fenner>

Common Ocellaris or Percula? 4/26/13
I'm having a hard time identifying my new tank members. The LFS called them Ocellaris. I'm not so sure they're right.
<I'd label this fish as a Percula... but it might be a cross... a Percularis so to speak>
These fish seem a bit darker with thicker lines.
They don't hold still enough for me to count spines, and that's if they even put them up!!!!
Help!!!!
Thanks so much.
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

R2: Purple Firefish Compatibility? (is a timid little fish…conspecifics aside) – 04/27/13
Well, I went back to my LFS tonight excited to purchase the New Life pellets you folks recommended.
<<Yes…a very nutritious and palatable staple food>>
I was also going to buy some bloodworms as a supplement as you suggested as well. When I asked about them, the rep told me that bloodworms were only fed to freshwater fish!!!!!! What?!?!? Ugh.
<<I would not feed such to marine fishes solely…but they do have nutritional value, provide a different presentation/appeal…and these and Glassworms are excellent for getting problematic feeders to eat in captivity, in my experience>>
I do believe I will be relying on you good people and your knowledge for most all my questions from now on!!!
<<Perhaps you also need to find another LFS?>>
Thanks so much again!
<<Welcome again>>
(And my fish LOVE their new pellets!)
<<Knew they would! (and so good for them too!) Cheers… EricR>>

Refugium and aeration 4/27/13
Hello crew!
<Josh>
First time writer, long time reader. Great website! I have a 125 gallon long aquarium, heavily planted with co2 system, 35 gallon refugium fed from CPR overflow box and a Fluval fx 5 canister. I currently have a silly volcano in the center (my girlfriends only request) pushing out these huge bubbles that agitate the surface. My question is this- Will the refugium with overflow box cause enough aeration below the tank to keep oxygen levels adequate or must I have an air source in addition? I really want to eliminate the enormous volcanic bubbles. Also, I have the return from the Fluval pointed up to create a good amount of surface movement. Current stock load is about 20 tetras, 6-8 Cory's, 4 bushy nose Pleco and 8 discus in transit. Please help! Thank you in advance for your time and consideration.
-Josh-
<I think you likely have enough surface agitation with the overflow unless you live in a very hot climate, but do be prepared to act if the fish show signs of oxygen deprivation. You might consider replacing the volcano with a sponge filter. Personally, I love sponge filters because you get surface agitation and you get additional mechanical and biological filtration.
Clean water is important for the discus and Plecos are somewhat messy.- Rick>

Asking about orp controller 4/25/13
hello,
<Hi>
I'm Natra, student from Malaysia. May i ask something related to ORP controller. in my experiment, i need to use this equipment. however, in the first experiment i need to measure the ORP reading in the water (without ozone). i get the reading 600mV.
<Whoa; this is high!>
should be, the reading without ozone in the water is 0mV, right?.
<Mmm, well; not tap/mains water... Distilled that has been totally degassed should be close to 0 mV>
what should i do to overcome this problem.
<Your meter needs to be calibrated... with at least two known solutions.
Look for the manual that came w/ the meter; or look it up, maybe contact the manufacturer... via the Net>
i really need your help as soon as possible.
thank you.
<Sama sama, Bob Fenner>
Re: re: Asking about orp controller 4/25/13
hello.
<Natra>
i forgot to ask. if i used the tap water. what should the reading on the orp.
<Can't tell... varies by region, water source, treatment... Not zero though. All municipal waters have conductive materials, salts et al. in them...>
continue with my experiment. at the first experiment without injection of ozone into the water, iget the very higher reading. but, when i inject certain amount of ozone into the water, the orp reading becames decreased.
so, can u give any suggestion toward my problem.
<.... You need to know the ORP of your source water... contact the agency that supplies it, use another meter to check the accuracy, precision of yours. BobF>
i really need your help as soon as possible.
thanks
Re: re: Asking about orp controller 4/25/13
u can speak in Malay.
<Only a little. Polite interrogatories>
the problem right now, i don't know which manufacturer and i also haven't the manual. what can i do.
how to calibrate the meter.
can u teach me.

i really need your help.
thanks
Re: re: Asking about orp controller 4/26/13
hello.
i have another question, today i need to replace the tap water to distilled. Water. however, the orp reading are 300++mV. so, it is problem with my orp right.
<... not necessarily, no. There is a simple adjustment (likely a dial) to zero this>
about the manual of this equipment, i can't find it. because the. student before this, missed that manual.
can u help me.
<Can't>
thanks

Purple Firefish Compatibility? (is a timid little fish…conspecifics aside) – 04/25/13
Hi there folks!
<<Hey!>>
I love the forums and read till my eyes cross and words blur!
<<Cool!>>
So much great info.
<<Indeed>>
I was wondering, I have a Biocube 29 gallon with about 20 lbs of live rock. Right now I have two Percula clowns,
<<Mmm…this tank is a bit small for such, in my opinion. Would prefer to see these in 40g+>>
a small Cardinal and one Blood Fire shrimp. Would adding a purple Firefish work in this setup?
<<These are quite timid fishes…easily harassed/stressed…with dire consequences. I think the Clowns would pose a problem re>>
I've had my eye on one for quite some time now and haven't seen much in the way of compatibility of these little guys. The people at my LFS say I shouldn't have any problems, but wanted a second opinion from another source (that doesn't have some sort of stake in this).
<<You have it [grin]>>
If Firefish won't be a good option, do you have a recommendation for another fish?
<<Hmm… If you must, perhaps a small Dottyback like Pseudochromis porphyreus. Small and colorful…and just pugnacious enough to survive/coexist with the established Clowns. Though such behaviors (on both the Clown’s and Dottyback’s part) are very often exacerbated in small confines>>
Thanks so much!!!
<<Happy to share… EricR>>
Re: Purple Firefish Compatibility? (is a timid little fish…conspecifics aside) – 04/26/13
Thanks so much for the info!!
<<Quite welcome>>
I'll be doing my research on the Dottyback.
<<Excellent>>
Now, my last question: I'm finding conflicting information on feeding a Fire shrimp.
<<Oh?>>
Right now I feed a Spirulina 20 flake to my tank members, and every couple of days adding some thawed vitamin enriched brine shrimp.
<<I very much suggest expanding this diet to include thawed frozen Bloodworms and/or Glassworms, Mysis Shrimp…and the very nutritional and palatable New Life Spectrum pelleted food (I suggest the 1mm pellets here). You don’t have to feed all every time (though I do suggest a pinch of the pellets at least once daily)…and several small daily feedings are better than one big feeding…but your fish, indeed your whole system, will benefit from a better diet than what you currently describe>>
When I feed flake alone my poor shrimp comes out of his cave excited for food, but seems disappointed when he finds it's only flake and slinks backward into his home. I feel guilty!!!!! Should his diet be different?
<<It should, as mentioned>>
What should I be feeding him differently?
<<All of your tank inhabitants will enjoy and benefit from the foods I mentioned…the shrimp will especially enjoy picking the pellets from the rock/substrate>>
Thanks!!!!
<<Always welcome… Eric Russell>>

High Magnesium and Alkalinity Readings – 04/25/13
Hello,
<<Hiya Tim>>
I have a 65 gallon tank with 20 gallon sump, my magnesium levels are running 1600 or slightly above and my alkalinity is running high at 14.
<<14 dKH I assume>>
Wondering what to do to get them down even with water changes it is not coming down.
<<Test your “new” water before adding it to the tank to see if it has high readings like your tank. If so…test your tap water to see if it’s the culprit, or if your salt mix is to blame. If not…I recommend new/different test kits and/or take a sample to your LFS for comparison. If none of this proves to be the problem, then it may well be the rock/substrate in your tank causing the elevated readings>>
I have fish and corals. Please let me know what you think. Thank you Tim
Salinity 1.024
Calcium 420
Alkalinity 14
Nitrates 10
Nitrites 0
Ammonia 0
Ph 8.3
Temp 76
Thanks,
Tim
<<Happy to share… EricR>>

Re: Lump on cardinal tetra. 4/25/13
Hello Rick,
<Hi Fremi>
I attached two pictures, I hope they come through.
<Yes, and the photos show the lump as clearly as can be expected.>
There has been no change in the past 24 hrs it is still the same. The worm is not moving it just looks like a s shape white worm almost like a hair inside a water blister.
<It's very strange indeed. I haven't encountered a problem like this.
Nothing similar appears in my manual of fish health either, which leaves us still guessing. My guess is that it is either parasitic or bacterial similar to a lesion, but of the two I am inclined to think parasitic. I would definitely quarantine this fish, which helps prevent spreading to other tankmates. It's also easier to medicate in a small tank. I've had success against parasites with API General Cure and also with Prazi-Pro,
but they don't treat exactly the same things. If it were me, I'd be inclined to give General Cure a try, but let's see if anyone else recognizes this. Taking blind shots with meds is stressful for the fish.
Bob and/or Neale, have either of you seen this before? - Rick><<I have; many times... Sporozoan/Microsporidean likely; not treatable... and yes, catching to conspecifics. Might be of use to have a read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/cardinaltets.htm
RMF>>

Stung by Long-Spine Urchin /RMF 4/25/13
Crew,
Today I was moving an Acro frag up a bit higher in my tank, around the same time a crab moved and knocked it over. Without thinking I reached for the frag, and my index finger met my Long-Spine Urchin. I do not think that the spine broke under the skin, and I dissected my finger with tweezers in the process. It also hurt like nothing else I have felt before, and there was initially lots of inflammation. I ran my finger under hot water because I had no other clue what to do (also remembered this is how to treat Lionfish
stings), but am I correct in thinking that a secondary infection from the exposure is of much more concern?
Bryce
<Not likely problematical, but I would run the wound site under hot water for a few minutes, apply some antibiotic cream... And not worry. BobF>
Stung by Long Spine Urchin /James 4/25/2013
Crew,
<Bryce>
Today I was moving an Acro frag up a bit higher in my tank, around the same time a crab moved and knocked it over. Without thinking I reached for the frag, and my index finger met my Long-Spine Urchin. I do not think that the spine broke under the skin, and I dissected my finger with tweezers in the process. It also hurt like nothing else I have felt before, and there was initially lots of inflammation.
<Yeahouch>
I ran my finger under hot water because I had no other clue what to do (also remembered this is how to treat Lionfish stings), but am I correct in thinking that a secondary infection from the exposure is of much more concern?
<Do read here Bryce.
http://www.ehow.com/how_2283966_treat-sea-urchin-sting.html
James (Salty Dog)>
Bryce

Red Mandarin and Papuan (or Blue Spot) Toby Puffer Compatibility 4/25/13
Good Day!
I have quick question on compatibility. Long story short, we have a Red Mandarin Dragonet - we have had great success with this guy in our very young tank. He has taken to target feeding Nutramar Ova, Arctipods, and frozen Mysis shrimp (on occasion) and we some how happened to get a good run of pods in our 2 month old tank. The tank is a 30 gal biocube and
with about 25/30 lbs of live rock with lots of places for pods, as well as about 20 lbs of live sand. My wife has fallen in love with the Papuan and Blue Spot / Jewel Toby puffer and, everything that we have found says they are compatible.
<Mmm, Canthigasterines/Sharpnose puffers, are biters...>
These are the only fish that would be in the tank and I just want to make sure that they would be a good match.
<They are not>
The Mandarin is male, about 3 inches long. My main worry is fin nipping, but I'm not sure if there is anything else to worry about. Should we hold off on the puffer until we get our big 75 gal tank up and running and can move the Mandarin or do you think we should be ok?
Thanks for you time,
Antonio.

Is it Columnaris? Likely NO3, Melafix poisoning 4/25/13
Hi all, I need your help/reassurance please. I have a 250 litre planted tank with 11 danios, 7 penguin tetras, 6 platys (+handful of fry), 2 Opaline gouramis, 2 gold gouramis, 2 Bristlenose Plecos (juvenile) and an assortment of hitch hiking snails. Yesterday I saw one of the danios had a huge fluffy white patch on its back. Immediately I removed him into a tub and checked the water. After many weeks of pristine water, I found my nitrates were through the roof (red on the api master test kit so between 40-80). Changed 50% of the water, dosed with prime, and MelaFix
<This product can be much more trouble than anything of value. See WWM re>
which was the only medication I had to hand. Poor Danio didn't make it. Today, one of my platys has the same 'fuzz' growing on one eyeball. It completely covers the eye surface. Another 2 danios are behaving strangely, swimming erratically and have 'floppy' torn fins (one seems to tend to use the pectoral fin only on one side and has trouble remaining upright - tends to roll sideways or tail down if she stops moving). I tested the water today and my ph has dropped some (from 7.6 to 7.2 - from meds?),
<Could be... the tea... leaf extract>
and my nitrates are much better - 10-20). Did a further 25% water change and redosed the MelaFix. Is this Columnaris? A fungus? Something else?
<Can't tell from the images alone... but you're right to be worried. I'd change the water out again now and tomorrow and leave off w/ the phony API product>
I include a photo of the Danio who died and the platy with the fuzzy eye.
Any help would be massively appreciated.
Thank you in advance!
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Great pix!

Re: Is it Columnaris? 4/26/13
Thank you for your response. Seems no-one is getting sicker (the fuzz on the eye is almost gone) and apart from the Danio which looks like it's having some swim bladder issues (rolling a little - not maintaining an upright position unless actively swimming),
<... likely mainly environmental in origin>
all is beginning to look calm and peaceful once more. No-one else seems affected in any way. My nitrates are down to healthy levels again. I really wonder what happened. I'll be back in touch with any new developments
should they arise. Thanks again!
<Cheers, BobF>

Difficulty planning for new build's pump/plumbing sizes 4/25/13
Hi WWM crew...My name is Kris.
<Hiya Kris>
I've never posted a question here before but have found this site quite valuable. After years of running all-in-one reef tanks (currently a 39 gallon) I am taking the plunge to a tank with a sump, the sump being plumbed down in the basement of my home. I am having the tank custom built to fit a certain area of my house, but I can't order it until I know how big I want the holes drilled, and I can't know that until I know what size my plumbing will be, and I can't really plan that until I choose my pump. Which is where I am stuck. Here is my plan:
<I'm excited haha let's do this!>
60 gallon mixed reef with drilled internal overflow (corner), 30 x 22 x 23.5 tall. Planning on a Herbie style drain.

Single return which comes out through the overflow box and splits into 2.
<Same. I made a spray bar with loc line circle flow. Part of it comes in front of the overflow box and the other goes along the back wall. Very discrete and effective. But a bit pricey>
Sump is a 40 breeder. Simple sump plan, from left to right:
Refugium-bubble trap-return-bubble trap-skimmer-mechanical filtration.
Refugium will have its own supply T-ed off the main drain with a valve to control flow. So water will flow into the sump in the refugium section (slower flow) and into the mechanical filtration section, all moving toward the center return section.
<Ok this will be tricky with the Herbie. I use the center return concept like yours quite often on 4-6ft tanks seeing as there are 2 drains. But i would advise against this with your single drain 60. Have your 2 drain lines go right into your mech/skimmer chamber, then fuge, then return. If you really wanted to split your drain line into 2 different sections you will obviously need two gate valves. I would advise using a "True Wye" fitting for this application rather than a T. They are about 4 times the cost and hard to find but worth every penny.>
I initially planned for a external pump, and may still go that route, but thought with the return section on the sump being in the center it might be easier to go submersible if I could find a pump that will push the kind of head I need. I have measured about 10 ft of vertical, 7 foot horizontal, and with added elbows valves and such, online calculators were varying between 14 and 16 ft head loss.
<This will vary greatly on the size of your plumbing. 1" will do though>
I am open to either internal or external pumps at this point, but I need to pick one. I was trying to look at the flow curves on pumps online to see what would still have good flow at that head pressure. I was looking at the Iwaki 40RT and 55 RT, Blueline 70HD, PanWorld W70HD, and the Danner Mag drive 24 (submersible). Are any of these a proper size for my tank and sump? I am open to any suggestions.
< Blueline 70HD=PanWorld 200PS. Both are made by PanWorld and way too big.
Based upon the 14-16 ft of head, turning 85 gallons of water over 5 times an hour, the BlueLine 40hd would do. If you want a bit more turnover or to have the option of powering a reactor then the BlueLine hd55. That's for external which will need 2x 1" true union ball valves-there is about $50 on the cheap end. I would look into a DC internal return. Look into the Waveline/SpeedWave 10000 or Reef Octopus Diablo DC 10500. Pricey but 50+ less in plumbing and much less electricity. Oh and you can control the flow with a push of a button. I've got the Diablo 5500 with the Herbie-pretty awesome. You could have a very narrow section for the pump if you run an auto top off. Which i would absolutely do if you have the room for it. >
The other thing I am having problems with is the size of drains and return.
I am planning on using regular old PVC piping. Should the return be the same size as the outlet of the pump? How do I size the drains properly?
Drains need to be larger than returns right? How much larger? Can your plumbing be TOO big for your tank?
<Plumbing can certainly be too big. Question for you-how many gph are you trying to be putting through this system? You can put a LOT of water through a 1" siphon. I don't think you would want to turn your system over more than a 1" siphon could handle. Go with 1" bulkheads for drain and 1" for return. Are you planning on putting all 3 bulkheads in the overflow box? Will be tight. For what its worth, I use my 3/4" bottom bulkhead for siphon, 1" bottom bulkhead for safety drain, and i have a 1" bulkhead drilled in the back of the tank/overflow chamber. 90 into that back bulkhead and 90 out of it to my loc line. Pretty tight quarters but clean>
One of the problems I'm having is in asking for advice on various forums, is when I ask for pump advice people say the pumps I am looking at are way too big. But most of the pumps with higher head ratings ARE bigger pumps, and the high head then takes the GPH down to a more reasonable flow. I can always tee off the return line as well to reduce flow in he tank.
<Look at a flow chart for these pumps. You will then agree with the advise you have already been offered>
Please help me with a pump size and plumbing size. I am so lost. I have been planning this tank for a long time but just decided to put the sump in the basement a couple of months ago, and have been confused ever since.
<It is indeed a complicated system with a lot of variables. -NateG>
Kris
Re: difficulty planning for new build's pump/plumbing sizes 4/26/13
Thank you so much Nate! That was fast!
<The internet is quick haha>
I had planned this center return configuration to try and keep a truly separate refugium, where the fuge water is not getting skimmed or anything.
Is this concept kind of over-rated? I also wanted to keep the flow slower through the fuge. I see your point in both drains going to the same place though. I'm going to rethink my sump plans...
<Try thinking about how many gph you want going to your tank. Then decide if you want less than that to go through your fuge. Keep in mind that with pretty standard baffles, the speed will be faster at the surface than at the substrate. I really don't see the benefit to that concept unless you have 2 overflow boxes going into a fuge i.e. high gph.>
I am planning on using my PhosBan reactor and pellet reactor (see how I've outgrown the AIO?), but left them out of this discussion because I was planning on them running off a separate small pump like I have them now, for ease of controlling flow, and having them return right back into the sump. Does this sound ok? It's pretty much how they are configured now.
<Bio pellet reactor? Sounds fine, i would have them in sump if you can make the space. What are you running for a skimmer?>
So I should be ok with a submersible pump of some sort, 1" plumbing on return and 1" on both drains? Or am i better off with 3/4 on the main drain? And if I am, why?
<Submersible should be fine but you should consider the total wattage of your pumps. Then find out how much they are costing to run in a month.
Danner Mag drives work but they are just so damn inefficient on top of being loud. A Mag 18 would work at 145 watts. @ $0.10/kwh that's $126.67 a year for a pump that costs about $180. The Diablo DC 10500 with spa flex to the tank to get rid of some head pressure will do the job and @85 watts.
Cost upfront is about $270 but costs $74.26 a year. Money will start going back into your pocket long a little after a year. Long before its warranty is up.>
<Nah, go with 1" on all lines. More gentle flow around turns for that siphon line.>
Thank you thank you thank you! I am feeling much better about all this.
<Oh good. Happy to help. Any plans for an auto top off? They are simple and wonderful! -NateG>
Kris
Re: difficulty planning for new build's pump/plumbing sizes 4/26/13
I do have an auto top off, a Tunze Osmolator. I have a thing for topless rimless tanks so that has always been a necessity. I plan to have that holding tank in the stand under the sump, topping off into the sump.
<Excellent choice. Happy tank>
Skimmer, well, I got a deal on a ASM g4 off a local reefer site. Thing is HUGE, I had no idea until I met the guy to buy it how big it was. Figured I would bring it home anyway because I should be able to sell it for a profit on e-bay. I assume this is too big...and it takes up so much sump space. Not sure what to buy though...any advice is appreciated.
<Yeah that's a monster for your set up. Imagine that you have 3 different skimmers, all 3 have different body and drain styles but all 3 have the same pump. They will likely perform very similarly to one another. Skimmers have come a very long way and the pump is its heart in soul. You can absolutely not go wrong with a skimmer that has a Sicce pump on it. I would start there>
So I have always ran reactors outside the sump. I have this 40 breeder sump on a big stand, so I have space outside the sump. I like the idea of having then in there though in case of leakage. :). Do you just...set them in there?? And yes bio pellet reactor.
<If you have the room i would absolutely put them in them in sump. Better to have them sitting on sump flood vs. hang on the inside>
I was looking at the dc pumps and like that idea a lot. Way more energy efficient...like that they are adjustable flow. So flex line will help with head loss? I assume because no sharp angles?
<Yeah this last wave of more affordable dc pumps has been pretty legit.
Love mine. Flex pvc is very handle stuff. Pricey but great. Any chance you will be having all 3 bulkheads drilled into the bottom? -NateG>
Kris

Can you ID this please? 4/26/13
Hi- I saw this thing on my live rock a few weeks back but couldn't remove it(110 reef tank).
<Mmm, yes; polyplacophorans are hard to dislodge>
I came back the next day and it wasn't there. I saw it again last night and able to take a few photos. I was finally able to prior it off the rock with a metal knife but it was holding on to the rock like glue(very hard to remove). It is flat with rippled exoskeleton/shell like a beetle. It is almost like a snail on its underside. It reminds me of some type bristle worm but none like I have ever seen before. It curled up like a ball once I removed it. Any help you could provide would be great. Thanks Ron
<See here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/chitonidf.htm
Bob Fenner>

Re: Crab ID please, another lifted pic 4/26/13
Hi Bob Fenner,
Thanks for your reply and I will follow your advice. I think I have tracked it down as Tanaocheles bidentata on an obscure online classification book which happened to include a photo

This is identical as far as I can see but info for it, on the net, is very scarce with nothing more than its taxonomy classification. I was hoping to find out something about its habits and its likely fully grown size. If you have any info on this crab I would be interested to hear. Thanks again for your help and great website.
Regards
Max

Polycentropsis abbreviata, sys. 4/26/13
Hello crew, I had a brief question about compatibility. Today the LFS where I work got in 2 juvenile Polycentropsis abbreviata, which our distributor mistakenly sent us as Ctenopoma.
<Mmm, easy to do>
They are currently eating brine and Mysis shrimp. I took them home and they are currently in a 20 gallon long aquarium with 3 Pareutropius buffei, 3 Synodontis lucipinnis, 1Pantodon bucholzi, and a Macrognathus Siamensis. PH is at 7.6,
<High for this Nandid>
temperature is at a constant 80° Fahrenheit.
<Ok>
Substrate is sand and there are several pieces of wood with Anubias and Java moss growing on them. Is this setup appropriate (if small for the time being)?
<Better for the water to be more acidic... warmer not good for some of your other fishes>
I haven't been able to find a great deal of information, and I'm guessing their care would be quite similar to my Monocirrhus Polyacanthus,
<Mmm, yes; and the Ctenopoma>
but I wanted to hear from the experts.
Thank you very much,
CL
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Procambarus clarkii? 4/26/13
Hi WWM crew, attached are pictures of my new little crayfish - any idea what species he/she is?
<Mmm, no; there are many species... even just in the U.S.>
I thought perhaps Procambarus clarkii?
<Don't think so... I've kept this popular (to eat) species... it's more "robust" and darker and more consistent in colour>
"He" is very small, about 5cm in length and orange in colour. Thanks for your help! Catherine (South Africa)
<Ask around at the fishing/bait shops in your area re... It is likely introduced (non-native)... They will most likely know.
Bob Fenner>

Aquatic larvae please help!! 4/26/13
Hello, I recently found two of these worm-like "insects" in my planted aquarium (I know it's blurry and I am very sorry). It looks like a tiny caterpillar and it seems to live in a kind of "house" made out of leaves from my aquatic plants, it slides in and out of the leaves but always has its back-end inside the "house". I noticed what looked like webs or threads in the tank the other day, however I don't know if they were related to these or not, and they appear to be gone now.
<This/these are insect larvae. Read here;
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwaqinsectfaqs.htm
This is a fairly new aquarium- established for about 3 months, and has java ferns, java moss, duckweed, broad leaf Anubias, and dwarf penny wort (I believe it came in on this- its a matted plant).
I have a bubble ring in the tank and the filter is a sponge filter.
I am in desperate need of your help, I don't know what it is and what I should do.
Please please please help!
Thank you so much!
Lindsay
<Oh! From where you lifted the image... read on! Likely nothing to do... fishes will eat or they'll cycle out. Bob Fenner>

Ricordea Florida all "jumping ship"? Old-enough set up, changed lights, added Xeniid... 4/24/13
Hello I have a soft coral reef aquarium where I have had some (when I say some I mean tons) Ricordea florida in. They have been very happy for 3+ years and have created many babies all over the tank as they meandered their way around it. One and a half months ago I got a new Ecoxotic Panorama LED fixture. I started with it set low and slowly increased the light to get everyone hopefully accustomed. All my other soft corals and mushrooms are happy. My Ricordea all appeared content until about 3 days ago... The two "originals" were the first to start. First they made all this mucus at their base and let go. Now all their "kids" are following suit. No water parameters have changed at all. I added a new waving hands Xenia,
<This could be "it", or even the Corallimorpharians>
but it wasn't even near them.
<Doesn't have to be. Chemical allelopathy can be profound, even in a large system>
I have moved the "originals" and a few of their oldest "children" to my refugium to see if they will reattach but seem disinterested.
<Have to be in an entirely different system>
:( Could this still be light stress even though I've had the light over a month and slowly increased the light over the first month I had it?
<Not at all likely the lighting>
Is there some sort of Ricordea mass exodus occurring here?
<Yes; a survival mechanism for cases/circumstances when there's a need to move elsewhere (too much of something or not enough)>
Is the apocalypse at hand and only the Ricordea know?
<Heeeee! A possibility. At their scale and from their "point of view", yes>
Thanks for your help!
<See WWM re Xeniid and 'Shroom compatibility and allelopathy. Bob Fenner>
Re: Ricordea Florida all "jumping ship"? 4/24/13
Thanks for your reply. So would it makes sense then that they were fine
with my pulsing pom/pom Xenia and they are not ok with the waving hands?
<Could be either, both or even neither involved here... "Cascade" events where something happens w/ established systems, mixes of Cnidarian groups are quite common... w/ concurrent winners and losers. BobF>
Re: Ricordea Florida all "jumping ship"? 4/24/13
guess best way is to try removing suspects until one is found. I moved my "original" Ricordeas to my 30G quarantine which luckily is set up right now holding my friend's fish while he moves.
<Ah, good>
So they're at least protected while I use their "children" as guinea pigs... Anything that, other than trying to figure out / remove the "naughty" one, that I can do to help the Ricordea heal/be happy again?
<Oh yes... check, raise RedOx, dose iodide-ate... B<>

Re: Halloween Moon Crab 4/24/13
I'm not sure if I should set up a different enclosure for her, or for the male.
<For the female if you want to try raising the young... this is quite involved. Better to rear in a specialized hatcher...>
I don't know how delicate she is so I am not sure if she should be handled.
<Once the shell re-hardens (a few days) easy to handle>
Her water fountain is an 8 inch square, should I increase her water availability. I don't think there is much of a chance for the baby crabs,
<There is not... w/o their removal, raising through stages, feeding cultured organisms....>
but I would really hate to lose Olive from this. I was thinking of setting up a sandbox with a water table, along with a sizeable water area (non filtered), and putting some sort of coral food into the water. I am not sure yet, I have some research to do. I just found out she was with eggs this morning. My main interest is to have her drop the eggs. From
what I understand, these crabs live in rainforests and migrate to the ocean to mate/release eggs. I did not think they could mate in captivity.
<Oh, they can/do. BobF>
Re: Halloween Moon Crab 4/24/13
I think I am going to just take out the rock structure in her fountain and see if she drops the eggs in the base of it...if/when I see her without eggs,
<You need to be raising food (for the third time); like weeks ago>
I will take the fountain base out and place it in another enclosure. I am taking this one step at a time. I added some white sand to the fountain base, she will drag it out of the water if she goes in there, so it is a way for me to keep track of her going into the water. My main concern is for Olive, as long as she can survive this, I will be satisfied. I hope that she feels comfortable enough to drop the eggs. I partially covered the enclosure with paper, to give her some privacy. She seems to be positioned at the opening of her burrow, as if she wants to come out, but is too shy. She normally never comes out with all the kids around, so that unto itself is unusual.
If/when she drops the eggs in the fountain base, I will move it to a separate enclosure, add some more brackish water, plankton supplement
<... study>
and see what happens.
I will keep you posted.
Thanks.
Heather and Alexander
<Ah, welcome. B>

Blenny... which species? 4/24/13
Hi.
I have a flame tailed blenny.
<... is this Ecsenius bicolor?>
I was looking online and i cannot find any info that is solid.
<...? Much written on this species; including its husbandry>
I'm truing to find out hot to tell if it is a male or a female.
<In a group by size, colour (more brilliant in males) and behavior/dominance>
And it seams like most people cant tell the difference between a flame tail and a bicolor.
Is it the same fish?
<.... Can't tell from here. Common names won't get you an answer.>
I want to get a mate for mine and i don't want to get a wrong fish.
Thank you.
<Determine the species you're interested in/dealing with. Bob Fenner>
Re: Blenny
<Is it full moon time again? Seven megs of pix...>
That's the problem. All I got is that its a flame tail blenny.
I don't know how to tell the difference.
Here are some pictures. Maybe you can tell which one it is.
<Mmm, well; some folks list this as an Ecsenius sp., others as an Atrosalarias, but I believe it's Enchelyurus flavipes
BobF>
That's the best pictures I could take.

Re: Blenny 4/25/13
Ok. But the question remains.
Where do I go for information about it?
<Mmm, likely for the sorts of info. you're looking for, the Net, hobbyist groups/bb's, rather than books, journals. There's a couple of articles re how to do these searches archived on WWM>
Is it normal for it to look like it is pregnant?
<If overfed, yes. Blennies in general are "eager-eaters">
Whats is the difference between the ones you mentioned, and how do I tell apart male from female? (If it is possible)
<... I've already mentioned this>
How can I stop it from begin such a pain when it comes to cleaning crew?
<...? Can't really>
It was nipping at the mex turbo snails.
I traded those fir more hermits.
Today I saw it yank a hermit out of a rock.
Not sure if it tried to eat it but the result was that the hermit made several summersaults and landed about 6 inches away.
I did not see any limbs missing, but than again they aren't easy to count.
For all i know it might have been helping the poor hermit with his swimming lessons.
<Heeeeee!>
I want to keep it because it is funny.
(Especially when it plows through other fish to get to some food.)
And at the same time I don't want the other tank mates to suffer.
<Better tankmates. B>

Re: Betta stiktos, sys. 4/25/13
I was reading about the Mekong basin and it said that it sometimes has decent levels of salt in it and that sw crocs live in it. I am still debating whether I want to try brackish with my beloved pair.
<If you try, I would acclimate the fish very slowly over the course of a few weeks, and be ready to abort the experiment if the fish shows any sign of stress. Please let us know how it goes. - Rick>
Thanks!
<Welcome. Good luck with them.>

Lump on cardinal tetra. 4/25/13
Hello WWM crew,
<Fremi>
I need your expert advice with one of my cardinal tetras. It has what looks like a lump on the area under its gills. I attached two pictures I hope you can see them.
<No photos attached.>
It started as a white patch a few days ago and now it looks almost transparent with what it looks like a white worm inside. I have not tried any medication yet.
<Could be several things. Is the "white worm" moving? How has it developed in the past 24 hours?>
He is eating ok and schooling with the others. I have 5 other cardinals and 1 Amano shrimp in the tank which are all looking good. The tank is a 12 gal planted with water parameters of: ph 7.5, kH 6, gH 7, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 5, temp 82. I use RO water buffering with baking soda to 6 kH and adding some SeaChem flourish for the plants once a week when I do the 30% water change. I also have a diy co2 system.
I've had the tank set up for about 3 months. I did the fishless cycle successfully thanks to some great advice from the awesome Bob Fenner. And added the fishes and shrimp about 2 months ago. No problems so far except for this issue now. If you know what it is and how to treat it if there is any treatment for it. Any comments and advice will be appreciated.
<Without the photos it's dangerous to guess at treatment. It matters a lot if the "white worm" is a parasite or just something that looks like a worm but is not. That is to say, is there a parasite involved? What I will say is that this tetra should be quarantined ASAP to minimize the chance of spreading it to other inhabitants.>
Thank you Fremi.
<I'm afraid not much help at the moment, but do try to attach the photos again. The will be very helpful. - Rick>

to quarantine or not to quarantine <Chaetodontids> 4/25/13
Hello Crew,
Rich here.
Here is my dilemma; I had a 55 gallon FOWLR for seven years. I set up a 29 gallon high as a quarantine tank, Emperor filter, heater, light, air pump, some PVC pipe at bottom for a place to hide. I used water from my 55 to fill it along with some RODI water.
<Good>
Temp is 79, salinity 1.023, PH 8.3. ammonia zero, nitrites zero. nitrates 5. I moved my five zebra barred dart fish into the 29 high.
<Mmm, I hope they were all friendly/known to each other before being crowded here>
I then set up my 180: two overflows into 40 gallon sump, two Tunze pumps moving about 450 GPH each after head and turns in plumbing, two Koralia circulation pumps each rated at 850 GPH, 160 lbs of live aragonite, about 100 -120 lbs of live rock from my 55 gallon, Tunze DOC 9011 skimmer. I filled it with about 30 gallons from my 55 gallon tank and RODI water.
<With you thus far>
For ten days ammonia and nitrites were zero, and nitrates 10. Temp is 79. PH 8.3, salinity 1.022. I took a chance and put my dart fish in the 180. No change. I quarantined six small, about 1", green Chromis
<A touchy species when small>
for ten days, and moved them into the 180. Everything has remained stable. No change. I quarantined six small, about 1", green Chromis for ten days, and moved them into the 180. Everything has remained stable.
The 180 has been up and running for a total of about 30 days. I purchased two butterflies, a 3 inch Indian Ocean Double Saddle Back and a 4" Pearly Scaled. They were in the LFS for over three weeks and looked and acted and ate fine. I put them in my quarantine tank four days ago and they seem OK.
They are fed frozen Mysis shrimp along with frozen Cyclop-eeze and occasional flake. I planned on keeping them there for three weeks so my 180 would have two months to run, but now I am reading that some people think it is better not to quarantine butterflies.
<Yes; depending on their apparent condition, the species; better to expedite, perhaps run through a prophylactic dip/bath enroute from shipping instead>
OK. They are fed frozen Mysis shrimp along with frozen Cyclop-eeze and occasional flake. I planned on keeping them there for three weeks so my 180 would have two months to run, but now I am reading that some people think it is better not to quarantine butterflies.
<Shouldn't be a problem w/ these species to keep in the 55 for a while; even the 29 if they're getting along>
I fear that my 180 is too new to put them in. Do you recommend taking a chance keeping them in the 29 gallon or move them into the 180? I feel like I have no easy decision here. Thanks.
<I'd leave them where they are for a while; closely observe. IF they begin to quarrel, move. Bob Fenner>

Picasso Trigger very ill, please help! 4/24/13
Gents, I have a Picasso Trigger that hasn't been very well for the last 2 days. Sitting on the bottom and not moving or eating.
<Mmm>
It's hanging in there but only just. I've tested the water both at home and at the local LFS and it all looks fine. I've had the fish for nearly year in a 400 litre tank without any problems. He's probably my favourite fish and I'd be gutted to lose him. Even though the water readings were good, I performed a 40 litre water change. I also treated the tank with Oodinex which has been used previous top treat white spot (though, there is no sign of this on the Trigger). Coincidentally I also lost a Hawkfish recently and these are the first fish I have lost for about 6 months.
<Do you suspect the loss may be related?>
The tank mates, including 3 cardinals, Regal Tank, Lemon Tang,
<These tangs may have slashed the trigger>
Lionfish
<Or more likely the Lion poked it... and the lost Cirrhitid>
and 2 clowns all appear to be fine. Any advice you could provide would be most welcome. I'm desperate!!! Many thanks, Dan

Sea Rod Identification/Care/Health? 4/24/13
Mmm, can't open .png's... Please resend just two decent files of size as jpg's, bmp's, tiff's. BobF
Hi Crew,
NateG here. I purchased a sea rod last Saturday and was told that it was
photosynthetic. I have another unidentified photosynthetic sponge in my
tank that has been doing quite well so I figured I would add another for
some more variety in my 60 cube. Picture #1 is during acclimation and is
of the same color when I saw it under the LFS's halides. Pictures 2-4 are
washed out under my blue and white LED's.
From the reading I've done on WWM I'm leaning towards it being Eunicea
mammosa (aka swollen knob candelabrum). I tested the LFS salinity prior to
acclimation and found it to be 1.033. I gave it a nice long drip while the
collection cup was sitting within the water of my sump. Dripped to 1.025
then I introduced to my display without it touching the air. Can I mount
this species to a rock out of water or is this a no no?
Pictures 2 and 3 show the general size and shape of it while showing what
would appear to me as "normal" polyp extension. My concern for this coral
is that is will periodically retract all/most of its polyps at strange
times of day. I have yet see a trend in this aside from slight retraction
after the lights come on. Today I noticed for a second time a few of the
polyps swelling (pictures 4,5). Are these the swollen knobs in the common
name? Is it a good or bad thing?
So if we can I would like to find out what exactly it is, see if it is
behaving this way simply to being a new addition to my system or perhaps
something else. Or if there is anything else I need to provide it with in
addition to my daily routine: 2-part, trace, iodine.
I just picked up an Aqua Medic Ocean Light 250w HQI pendant. Waiting on XM
20k and a new glass shield. Right now my photoperiod is on the lengthy
side
because my fixture is a weak. Actinics are 13 hr and daylights are 7.5 hr
with a good amount of natural sunlight. Any recommendations on the new
photoperiod for the new halide?
Thanks for your time,
-Nate
Re: Sea Rod Identification/Care/Health?
Oops sorry about that Bob. Windows 7 snipping tool defaults to png.
Thanks!
<My guess is the same as yours, Eunicia mammosa... Rarely does well in captivity. Bob Fenner>

Before and after

Re: Sea Rod Identification/Care/Health? 4/24/13
<My guess is the same as yours, Eunicia mammosa... Rarely does well in captivity. Bob Fenner>
One of those eh? Wonderful. I guess I'll have to keep a close eye on it.
Thx. -Nate
<Welcome. B>

Pondering Mollusks 4/23/13
Dear Crew,
Good Afternoon!
I have three pictures of an interesting maybe mollusk/Polyplacophora in my reef tank. I do not want to send pictures that are bigger than they are supposed to be. I was wondering what the size should be, as I am not sure what exactly this animal is.
Bryce
<A few hundred Kbytes per... B>
Re: Pondering Mollusks
Okay. Thanks.
Bryce
<Might be a Chiton... any under-side pix? BobF>

Re: Pondering Mollusks 4/23/13
Hi Bob,
I think the critter in question is a sea hare, perhaps something in the genus Dolobrifera (like Dolabrifera dolabrifera - common, wide range in warm seas, extremely variable in color). Unfortunately, all links to the SeaSlug forum are out of commission (yikes - hope it's only temporary!!), but here's a link w/a photo at the bottom of the page:
http://www.usca.edu/biogeo/zelmer/sansal/mollusca/gastropod/
Good photo here: http://www.nudipixel.net/photo/00015298/
Hope that helps! Take care, Lynn
<Ah yes, now I see the "horns" top right... does look summat like this from above. Thanks, BobF>
Re: Pondering Mollusks 4/23/13
Thanks, it could be that or something else entirely but those "Shrek ear" appendages/rhinophores/tentacles (whatever they are) caught my eye. Hope you're doing well and enjoying life! Take care, Lynn
<Thank you Lynn... have a painful malingering foot issue (gout plus), but trying to do what I can. Cheers, B>
Re: Pondering Mollusks 4/23/13
Thanks, it could be that or something else entirely but those "Shrek ear" appendages/rhinophores/tentacles (whatever they are) caught my eye.
Hope you're doing well and enjoying life! Take care, Lynn
<Thank you Lynn... have a painful malingering foot issue (gout plus), but trying to do what I can. Cheers, B>
<<Ouch, that's got to hurt - hopefully you'll be back running and having a good time hashing soon. Get this...of all the idiotic things - I tore my rotator cuff swatting a fly(!) about two months ago.
<D'oh!... Yowch!>
Can you believe it? The funny part is that the fly got away! If I were a more enlightened person, I would
consider this a lesson and allow flies to peacefully coexist in our house.
Instead, I bought a fly-swatter because rolled up newspapers don't work worth a darn!
Take care, Lynn>>
<And you! B>

Betta stiktos 4/23/13
Hi!
<Josh>
I currently have a pair of pureblood Betta stiktos. After looking on your site and not finding anything, I decided to email you guys. I was wondering what you guys know about this species? I read that it may be brackish. Is that true? How abundant are they in the wild? Thanks!
<A quick internet search brings up this page from the international Betta conference:
http://www.ibcbettas.org/smp/species/stiktos.html
A read through indicates that the species was found in the Mekong River basin in Cambodia.
Since the Mekong River Delta where brackish conditions would occur is in Vietnam, that means the B. stiktos were found upstream, so almost certainly fresh water. I do not see anything on the web to corroborate keeping the fish in brackish conditions.>
Sincerely,
Josh
<Regards, Rick>

Fish ID please 4/24/13
<... nine megs in pix? Why do we allow only a few hundred Kbytes?>
Hello there crew,
I have just one very simple and as far as I can see straight forward question.
I have purchased what I believe to be a Genicanthus melanospilos male and female from my LFS. They however sold the male as a Genicanthus caudovittatus.
<Mmm, no; this is a G. melanospilos... the dorsal bar you mention, black radiating lines below eye is missing per G. caudovittatus>
It is hard to tell from my male perfectly but as far as I can see and research the most glaring difference is the presence of a black section in the Dorsal fin. My male appears to lack this trait and I am hoping that indeed I have a male and female of the same species. Any help with any other trait such as body shape etc. from the following picture
to ID please would be greatly appreciative.
Jordan Brown
<See the works of Gerald Allen with others. Bob Fenner>

Halloween Moon Crab, repro. 4/24/13
HELP!!!!!
My Halloween moon crabs mated. The female (Olive) is carrying the eggs on her belly. I live in Northeast Ohio, both crabs live in a 20 long enclosure with coco peat, brackish water fountain and plenty of places to hide.
What should I do???
Heather
<...Mmm, depends... likely nothing... Are you interested in trying to raise the young? I'd be reading re Gecarcinus quadratus reproduction, and if so, starting to rear food organisms for the young. Bob Fenner>

Puking Red Scat (RMF?) >I agree w/ your stmt.s Neale< 4/24/13
WWM!
I was feeding my 240 gallon brackish water tank the other day, and noticed one of my oldest Red Scats (Scataphagus Argus) was not eating as vigorously as he use to. I also noticed he seemed to be losing weight and was not near as plump as my others. I went on and set up a QT tank, so I could monitor him better. I originally thought that maybe he wasn't eating as vigorously because he is not the 'alpha', but even in QT, he isn't eating very well.
<A rare thing indeed with Scatophagus spp.>
QT water parameters are as follows: SG:1.013 Temp: 77 Nitrate:0ppm Nitrite:
0ppm Ammonia:0 ppm When I fed tonight, I soaked his pellets in a garlic supplement, just to see if that would help. He ate great, or at least I thought. When I returned to the room, there were pellets in the tank. Then I literally saw the red scat vomiting the food back up. I would be more willing to believe that it is a internal parasite, but I haven't added any new fish to the tank in over 6 months, and this red scat is pushing 5 years in age. I am really at a loss, and don't know what I can do to get him to get some weight put on.
Words of wisdom are needed, and very much appreciated!
Katie
<Regurgitating food is not necessarily a bad thing, but if the fish is losing weight, I'd be worried about either "worms" or some protozoan infection of the gut (like Hexamita). So, with that in mind, I'd go with the Metronidazole plus Nitrofural combination in the first instance (Metronidazole is about the only thing that treats Hexamita reliably) and after that course of meds, if things aren't improving, an dewormer, such as Praziquantel, Levamisole or Piperazine. Hexamita-type protozoal infections are probably latent in many Perciform fish in the hobby, but we know about them being so common in cichlids simply because cichlids are so widely kept. Something happens in the environment and the Protozoans multiply wildly, and that in turn causes the health problems. Worms are similarly likely to be in many (most?) wild-caught fish probably a lot of farmed fish too, but again, only become a problem when something stresses the fish making it possible for the worms to "outwit" the fish's natural defences.
Age can be a factor, but at 5 years, your Scat is barely middle aged; this species should reach around 10-12 years in captivity, possibly longer.
Cheers, Neale.>

Should I Reintroduce? 4/24/13
Hello Again Dr. Monks,
<Hello Dawn,>
I'm not sure if you'll recall, but I wrote in a few weeks ago concerning the restocking of my 20 gallon freshwater system. All is well regarding that tank - the *Cheery* Barbs (as you call them) are quite at home and lovely as ever (and growing!), the Celestial Pearl Danios have put on size and color nicely, and my pair of Dwarf Gouramis are doing very well - the female gets along well with everyone, and the male has taken to building bubble nests and (gasp) uprooting some of my Dwarf Hairgrass to complete them! It is so fascinating to see him at work, and to interact with both of them. I've never had a Dwarf Gourami build a bubble nest before - only my Bettas have - but it is mesmerizing to see his dazzling breeding colors.
The female is still pretty young, but he seems to be pretty gentle with her anyway - only chasing if she gets too close to his nest.
<All sounds lovely.>
Anyway, on to my question. In my Guppy tank I currently have nine 7-week-old fry, who have been growing well, but the problem is that I foolishly thought they were old/big/strong/smart enough to stay away from the (very weak) pull of the intake of the tiny internal filter, therefore, I didn't have it covered. Well, yesterday I noticed two fry had gone missing, so I grabbed the flashlight and found them swimming inside the filter. The female was fine, albeit a little pale, but after release and getting a nice feeding, she was good as new. The other, however, seemed to be spiraling out of control, so I put him in a small observation glass. His caudal fin looks eroded, most of the top half missing, and the lower is ragged. He is also quite thin, but that's to be expected after not eating for a day or two, I think. At first I didn't expect him to make it, but I dosed with a little Melafix, (I know it isn't the most powerful stuff out there, but it was the best I could think to do for him at the time.) and kept him in the specimen container near the tank.
<I'm not hostile to Melafix, just reticent about its uses. As a preventative following some sort of physical damage like fighting or scratches after handling, it's probably pretty good. But I wouldn't use it on fish that have obvious symptoms of Fungus or Finrot.>
Today I have the containing floating in the aquarium (no shared water, however), and he looks much better; able to swim horizontally, interest in tankmates/food, but in such a small container, I'm worried he won't heal or grow properly. I guess my question is, can or should I reintroduce him?
Should I be concerned for the health of my other fish were I to do so? I have a net breeder where he can recover more fully, in case the others might go too rough with him.
<Assuming your breeding trap allows circulation of clean water in and out, you can leave the baby Guppy in there for some weeks, which is what I'd do, waiting at least until he was big enough to avoid trouble. So remove from the container and pop him into that. In and of itself, being caught in a filter for a while seems to do most fish little harm, assuming of course the fish wasn't minced in the filter impeller! Indeed, Cherry Shrimps and snails seem to thrive inside filters!>
Oh, I should also note that I removed the filter for the time being, and have an airstone running instead.
<With very small fish, including Guppy fry, a good option is a low pressure filter system, i.e., something powered by air, like a corner/box filter, or even better, a sponge filter, which traps food and algae that baby fish love to eat.>
I have a few live plants in the tank, and with more frequent water changes,
I think it should be alright until they're too big to fit in the intake.
So, what are your thoughts?
Thank you for taking the time to read this!
Regards,
Dawn
<Glad to help. Cheers, Neale.>

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