Daily Questions & Answers (FAQs)
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We ask that, before submitting, you refer to... Tips on Asking Questions, Ask the WWM Crew a Question, Query Corrections Referral Page, FAQs on FAQs. EDFP, TBPFAQs, SWPOTD, Last Few Days Accrued FAQs, Subscribe to the Daily Pics	Genus Lobophyllia Blainville 1830. Lobed/Flat Brain Coral. Sometimes massive colonies that tend to be dome-shaped. Flabello-meandroid or phaceloid. Large corallites with distinctive knobby, long septal teeth. Valleys (columellae) long and deep, often of contrasting lighter color. Tentacles typically light tipped. Fiji   Desktop size download & Link to Archived Marine Daily Pix

Macroalgae identification     5/24/13 Hi, I would like your help to indentify this macroalgae Thank you Marie-H. <See here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/RedAlgID7.htm BobF>

Re Cirrhilabrus abuse     5/25/13
Nate,
Getting back to you a little late, but the report so far is good.  The bully is gone, and the other fish already seem far more at ease. 
<Excellent! Job well done!>
The fairy wrasse has come back out, but he is still quite week. Hopefully he will pull through.  I have at least 8 turbo snails at work along with an assortment of Nassarius, Nerite, Astrea, and Cerith snails at work. I'm hoping I can find a tuxedo urchin tomorrow.  I fixed the RO unit, so water quality is improving.
<Good good. That will make the battle much more strait forward. Keep those phosphates down and let those Turbos do their
thing> 
I actually have noticed a complete lack of algae growing on the windows over the past week.  The GHA will likely take a
little more time, but things seem to be improving. . I still have a lot of work ahead of me.  I think the rocks are going to get another scrubbing on my next water change.
<Okiedoke. Good luck with that. Keep that Chaeto pruned and that skimmer clean. -NateG>
 Thanks again for all the help.
-Dave

Angel fish     5/25/13 Hi Crew, <Laura> It has been a while since I have written because everything has been going well. I have attached a picture of my angel fish. These growths appeared on it yesterday. I think it looks like cotton. <... need to sample, look under a 'scope to be sure, but true fungal issues are rare... This is likely bacterial following a trauma...>  It appears to be painful for the fish as the area around the growth is very red. I tested my water and there is no ammonia and all other components are within range. The angel fish is in with 3 hatchet fish, 6 bamboo shrimp, 3 peppered catfish, and 3 snails. The tank is 75 gallons. The only thing that has been added recently is one bamboo shrimp. Any advice provided will be greatly appreciated. Thanks Laura <Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_6/volume_6_2/mycobactera.htm and the linked infectious disease FAQs at the bottom. Bob Fenner>

of course the power goes out AFTER your tank cycles. . .     5/25/13
Hello, wish I was writing under happier circumstances (especially since I do have a couple of questions I've been wanting to ask.  *sighs*).  I've got a somewhat newly set up reef tank, a biocube 29 with 25# of rock, a few LPS, and a pair of juvenile percula clowns.  Yesterday while I was out, the power went out at my apartment complex, and while the power company said it would only be out for an hour or so, it was out for 10. . .  The tank got to room temp, it was nearly 90 outside, but since the room I am in was shadowed, and I had no lights on I'm assuming it wasn't much more than 85 in here at most.
<Good... no feeding I hope/trust>
 After the nitrogen cycle was over(with the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate staying at 0 for over 2 weeks) I got the clowns, and they've been fine so far. 
This morning neither is very active.  The first is sticking next to the glass, and while she was staying oriented the way she wanted to, isn't swimming around, the second is looking like she is trying to right herself and can't (both DO sleep next to the tank's rim, and I've only got my blue lights on at the moment, so I am not sure if the second is trying and failing, or is just unsure if  it is morning somehow since the lights aren't as bright as normal.)  As for the corals, my Acans are happy as ever, my torch is out and waving around, the hammer is a bit retracted, but not all of the way, and so far the Duncan is half open(it never gets fully open without the 10K lights on, though) and both candy canes, which are newer additions, are a bit retracted, but not completely.
<Should be fine>
I am leaving for work(of course it happens that way. . .) now, and after am going to get a water test at my LFS, and grab 5 gallons of saltwater to do that much of a water change, but what else can I do to hope I don't have a re-cycling tank on my hands, and to help my fish and coral get through it if it is?
Dani
<I'd do naught other than the water change. Bob Fenner>

Where do I report a broken link on your website?     5/23/13
Hello,
<Hey Brittany>
I just wanted to shoot you a quick message and let you know that I encountered a broken link while on the wetwebmedia.com site today. I'm not sure if there's a specific person to contact or a form for submitting broken links, but if you could let me know I'll gladly send that information along.
<Please do... running the diagnostic tool for these (there are a few hundred thousand such links on the site) reveals more than I can keep up with. But "important" ones need to be fixed. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Thanks! J
Re: Where do I report a broken link on your website?     5/23/13
Hello Bob,
 <Brit>
The broken links I came across were on your page at:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/pondlinks.htm. 
<Ahh, the site to site link pages...>
Here are the ones
that weren't working for me:
Internet Pond Society
Central Illinois Water Gardeners
Koi Society of Australia
Lee's Koi Corner
I hope that was helpful, I know what a pain it is to keep up with broken links!
 <Ah yes>
I don't know if you're looking to add new links, but if you are, please have a look at www.thepondshop.com - some friends of mine recently launched a site selling a lot of pond and water garden supplies so I thought it might be something your readers would be interested in.
 <Will do; thank you. BobF>
Thanks!
Brittany Sozak
brittany@twittertravels.com
www.americabyrail.com
www.twittertravels.com

Re: Cirrhilabrus abuse      5/23/13
Nate,
I have been feeding a mixture of foods. He gets Spectrum pellets, New Era Marine Pellets, Rod's Original and Pacific Plankton, and freeze dried Cyclop-eeze.  I soak the Rods in Selcon and VitaChem as well.
<All pretty good stuff. Make sure you are turning down/off the pumps when you feed.
Both the Selcon and VitaChem taste pretty bad. Try a drop of VitaChem and 2 drops of garlic extract per cube. Pick up some Spirulina enriched brine and some PE Mysis. Put one cube of each and a few tablespoons of tank water into a very small Tupperware container. Add your drops. I use a similar mixture and it can stay in the fridge 4-5 days easy.>
He take care to make sure he eats everyday, but clearly more is needed.  I am not sure about my kH as my test kit is a Seachem which does meq/L. It usually measures 2.5-3 meq/L with ph being about 8.1.  <K cool> I'll get the bully removed,
feed smaller and more frequently, and start a series of large water changes with some better source water. <Got that RO unit working yet?>  Hopefully I can report back in a few weeks with better news. <Report back tomorrow after you get that jerk outa there  haha> I do have one last question while I am writing.  If manage to get him  healthy again, would it be safe and beneficial(more concerned about the latter) to add a female? <Not sure about that> I have seen a few sources
saying fairy wrasses do better with a female or two. <Yes if the tank is large enough and if the females are added first/simultaneously> As I stated, this would be down the line when I am sure he is healthy. One thing at a time.
<Yes indeedy! Get yourself some good water and a clean up crew of sorts to get rid of that hair algae. I mean an army haha then remove enough of them afterwards so they don't starve/fight. -NateG>
Thanks again .
-Dave

Fish ID Question     5/23/13 Hi, I love your website. I have what I thought was a Heniochus diphreutes in my tank, <Mmm; yes> I had initially believed it would be reef safe. <Not always...> He is very peaceful when it comes to his fellow fish in the tank, but he is nipping a lot when it comes to corals (there is damage).  The corals he favors are Palys, candy cane, and Duncan.  He is very well fed, so I don't believe his nipping is out of frantic hunger. I have attached a picture for your input (please let me know if the picture is a good enough quality).  Is he a H. diphreutes or is he a H. acuminatus? <Appears to be the former... little mouth, rounded "breast"...>  I am having a lot of trouble distinguishing between the two. <See WWM, other places re... easy to distinguish seen side by side> It may be time for this guy to find a new fish only home, which is a shame because he is truly awesome to watch. Thank you AD <Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>

Phosphates. Measuring zip      5/24/13
Hi Crew,
I run a marine tank which is about 18 months old and heavily stocked with fish which are all very well  and I do not normally test for Phosphates but as I want to add some inverts so I tested for Phosphates with a Salifert test kit and they showed virtually Zero. Not complaining but is this normal?
<It certainly can be. Good food/protein skimming/water changes/"aquascape" can all contribute. -Nate>
Regards,
Adam

tapwater readings... anomalous for tap/China, Neotrop. Cichlid use     5/24/13
Hi Crew.
<Henk>
I've moved recently, and am a bit confused by current tapwater readings: pH 8.7-8.8
<Whoa, high! Though ours here in San Diego is generally 8.2-8.4>
 (electronically measured but drip test gives similar readings of pH8-9), KH 0-1, GH 0-3. Not sure if it matters, but I live in China, and I have no idea what chemicals/processes are used to treat the tapwater.
<Strange... something not registering (much) as general or carbonate hardness... I'd use a standardized solution or two to check you meter>
If I store the water for one or more days pH remains stable and does not decrease. If I add baking soda pH seems to go up and then come down to basically the same level as the tapwater, i.e. around 8.7-8.8.
Currently I add Epsom salts and baking soda, to increase KH and GH, while aerating the water for a minimum of 24 hours, and I add Seachem Prime to the stored water just before I make the water change.
I've tried SeachemMarine Buffer hoping this would stabilize pH around 8.3 but instead pH exceeds 9 after addition of this product.
<Mmm, yes>
I am keeping Central American Cichlids (Nicaragua Cichlids and Thorichthys Maculipinnis) so it's not that I need to get my pH down to 7 or so...but still, I am not sure if a steady pH of 8.8 isn't a bit over the top here.
<Could well be... I'd get/use a reverse osmosis device to mix water for your neotropical Cichlids and your potable uses>
Is a steady pH of 8.8 acceptable for these fish?
<Too high>
 Is there any (simple) way I can increase hardness and lower pH?
<Not as far as I'm aware. There is something anomalous here... You need to check your checkers... and look into RO>
Thanks.
Henk Naert
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: tapwater readings; parsimony rules      5/24/13
Hello Bob,
<Henk>
Thanks for your speedy response. Just wanted to let you know that indeed the simplest explanation (unfortunately often overlooked) is most often correct. Just put a spare Tetra test kit to use, and my tap water tests 7.5 out of the faucet (will test again tomorrow after aerating 24 hours),
<Ah!>
 tank water tests at 8 (which I assume seems to be correct considering I add baking soda to the water I prepare for water changes). Tap water currently KH1, GH4; tank water KH4, GH8. I assume these values make more sense.
<Yes>
 Would you further increase KH and GH or is it fine as it is now ?
<Mmm, I'd leave as is... and make substantial water changes weekly... a third of volume perhaps... vacuuming the bottom>
(I have been a bit conservative adding baking soda and Epsom salts not understanding very well what was off with the pH value). I guess electronic meter needs to be recalibrated or is not functioning properly.
<Quite common>
Thanks for your help!
Henk Naert 
<Thank you, BobF>

Are there any corals that can withstand 115 degrees Fahrenheit or 45 degrees Celsius?     5/24/13
Hi
I am from India. Here the problem is temperature and power cuts ( i am talking about 4 to 8 hrs).
<Ahh, do see last weeks Economist magazine... re your country... what might be done to improve so many people there's lots>
 You can run a fish only tank or even an anemone tank with the skimmer (but you can forget about the heavy wattage lights) in an inverter for so long. But there is no way you can run a chiller that long. So i was wondering are there beginner corals that can withstand this heat.
<None that I'm aware of... All cnidarians suffer heat stress in the high 80's F>
 Here they use diesel generators to power their chillers (which is viable for rich guys but at the price diesel is selling us moderate guys can't?). Since you have a very wide knowledge please reply?
<Mmm, I'd leave the lights off (and maybe the top of the aquarium!) during the day... only run them at night when it's cooler. Floating bags or containers of ice can help in short danger periods>>
thx
ajeet
P.s Temperature range 23 C to 45 C
<Yeeikes! Stay cool Ajeet. Bob Fenner>

Dwarf Puffer - Died     5/24/13
Hi,
<Daniel>
Yesterday one of my dwarf puffers appeared very bloated and wasn't at all active, this morning the puffer fish has died.
<Bunk!>
On close inspection, one side of the puffer fish is red and it looks very large and swollen.
<Mmm>
My tank is 180L and I have (had) 2 dwarf puffers and 3 Otos.
<Well... there is some overlap twixt these fish species chemical/physical environmental ranges>
Temp:77-80F
Nitrites:0
Nitrates:  40ppm straight out of tap,
<Yeeikes! I'd get/use an RO device for your potable needs>>
so using a nitrate removal filter to
Nitrates: 0 ppm
Ammonia: 0.001(from Seneye, verified as "0" with an API test kit)
Adding co2 (KH 12, bringing ph down to 7.2) - controlled via a PH controller. PH verified with Seneye
My other dwarf puffer appears fine.
<Mmm, mysterious>
This was really unexpected and happened very quickly within the space of 48 hours.
Do you have any idea what could have caused this?
<Likely "something internal"... These puffers often have lumenal parasite issues. I so wish the trade would prophylactically treat all imports w/ Metronidazole and an anthelminthic (Likely Praziquantel)... Do read re these medications on WWM>
Regards,
D
<Sorry for your loss, and thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>

Re: Hair algae battle. fish gone haywire, Now starved, bullied Cirrhilabrus Hello again Nate, <Hiya Dave> I decided I should update you because I have more questions about my solon fairy wrasse.  First of all, the melanurus wrasse is going to be moved tomorrow. <Good>   He is clearly doing some bullying as he will sometimes give chase to pretty much anything in the tank that crosses his path. <Not so good> Very disappointing as almost all accounts I have read were of a relatively peaceful fish.  Anyway, I'm afraid the solon wrasse has gotten worse.  He appears malnourished and has taken to hiding most of the time.  I can still coax him out to eat, but tonight he has even been finicky about that.  <What have you tried using for food? Have you tried garlic? How many times a day are you feeding? Better to feed small amounts more often throughout the day rather than say one gluttonous feast> I noticed him performing the barrel rolls again the other day as he ate, and tonight he repeatedly went into a corner and rolled to his side before righting himself. <After looking at that picture, I can't imagine it has all that much strength.> When he does swim openly, he tends to hang around the circle and swim with his head down as if watching underneath him.  I also noticed some black lines that seemed to follow the lines of his scales.  I have attached a picture so hopefully you can see something I am not seeing.  I also attached a picture of him when I got him almost 6 months ago for reference. My best guess is malnutrition and stress from being bullied.  I want to do my best to save this fish. <I wish you the best of luck my friend. He has clearly seen brighter/better days. Get the one out and fatten the other up. I sifted through the old messages and no mention of alkalinity. Keep a close eye on your ph and kH with the way your tank is looking. -NateG> Thanks again, Dave

Re: Hair algae battle. fish gone haywire Nate, I have been feeding a mixture of foods. He gets Spectrum pellets, New Era Marine Pellets, Rod's Original and Pacific Plankton, and freeze dried Cyclop-eeze.  I soak the Rods in Selcon and VitaChem as well. <All pretty good stuff. Make sure you are turning down/off the pumps when you feed. Both the Selcon and VitaChem taste pretty bad. Try a drop of VitaChem and 2 drops of garlic extract per cube. Pick up some Spirulina enriched brine and some PE Mysis. Put one cube of each and a few tablespoons of tank water into a very small Tupperware container. Add your drops. I use a similar mixture and it can stay in the fridge 4-5 days easy.> He take care to make sure he eats everyday, but clearly more is needed.  I am not sure about my kH as my test kit is a Seachem which does meq/L. It usually measures 2.5-3 meq/L with ph being about 8.1.  <K cool> I'll get the bully removed, feed smaller and more frequently, and start a series of large water changes with some better source water. <Got that RO unit working yet?>  Hopefully I can report back in a few weeks with better news. <Report back tomorrow after you get that jerk outa there haha> I do have one last question while I am writing.  If manage to get him healthy again, would it be safe and beneficial (more concerned about the latter) to add a female? <Not sure about that> I have seen a few sources saying fairy wrasses do better with a female or two. <Yes if the tank is large enough and if the females are added first/simultaneously> As I stated, this would be down the line when I am sure he is healthy. One thing at a time. <Yes indeedy! Get yourself some good water and a clean up crew of sorts to get rid of that hair algae. I mean an army haha then remove enough of them afterwards so they don't starve/fight. -NateG> Thanks again . -Dave

Re: Snails
Wow. Thank you. I did not know their parasites could affect humans.
<... Schistosomiasis... so many more>
 What do I search to find symptoms to watch with my kids?
<...?>
  I am getting rid of them. Thank you. -Ashlee
<Don't be backward... read re. BobF>

Re: A question about a fish bite, one of the C. Am. Red Devil spp.
I never thought of putting up a crate screen to keep him on one side, I can do that even with this 110, I have a "egg crate screen" I got in the lighting  dept at Lowe's long ago and made a divider when I was trying to breed my female  with him,
<Ahh!>
 it didn't work out at all, he loved her but he was a brute to her  small body, I will never do that again.  I can use that to keep him on one  side absolutely.  My ideal dream would be to release him in his native land
<A poor idea for a few reasons... Too much pollution getting it there, too much of a chance of undesirable introduction, small likelihood it would survive...>
  sigh, after he goes I will never have a big fish again, I wish I could donate  him to the Shedd aquarium in Chicago or something like that,
<Ask them... or put an advert on Craig's List, what have you>
he's like a pet dog  here, very loved and spoiled and he has a good life I guess for a fish.  No  more big fish for Julia after this one, I find it sort of cruel to house them in  anything less than a 300 gallon + at this point and I know Bob that you  feel the same way about these marvelous intelligent fish. 
<Ah yes>
 Thanks  again for the idea on the divider, it's better than a bucket, I imagine he would  stress out on that.   Julia
<Cheers, B>

Where do I report a broken link on your website?
Hello,
<Hey Brittany>
I just wanted to shoot you a quick message and let you know that I encountered a broken link while on the wetwebmedia.com site today. I'm not sure if there's a specific person to contact or a form for submitting broken links, but if you could let me know I'll gladly send that information along.
<Please do... running the diagnostic tool for these (there are a few hundred thousand such links on the site) reveals more than I can keep up with. But "important" ones need to be fixed. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Thanks! J

Re: Green Spotted Puffer     5/21/13
I tried what you suggested but unfortunately it was too late for spot. His stomach would turn as black as coal and his skin looked wrinkled like an old man. Not sure what he had but was shipped to me from Pet Zone of San Diego off Aquabid.com. Stay away from this store. The fish they sent me had a fungus and other internal problems and infected another fish before I
knew it had a fungus. I presume their store conditions are horrible and would not suggest shopping there!
Sincerely: Steven
<Sorry to hear about the bad ending to this tale. Does indeed sound like you've had a bad experience with this vendor; let's hope this isn't typical. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Red Feet/Safe Plants     5/21/13
I just wanted to let you know that we did get the medicine, and are on the third day of the treatment.  I have been putting both types of Maracyn in the water, which is how I understood what you said previously.  But ever since I started it, a white fuzz has been gathering on my frog.  Is this just from the medicine or is there something else wrong?
<If the threads are fluffy, like cotton wool, then it's fungus. Quite common alongside bacterial infections. Methylene Blue and other anti-fungal remedies may help.>
Also, does the Maracyn cause the frogs pain?
<Should not do so, no; it's merely an antibiotic.>
Because when I sprinkle it in the water, I notice he twitches around and seems like he's trying to escape from it or rub it off on the rocks in the water. 
Thank you!
Amanda
<Most welcome, Neale.>

Re: Hi, my guppy is starving, what do I do, I think he is going to die?     5/21/13
Thanks for your fast reply Neale
<Welcome.>
Unfortunately I hadn't got your email yet and was desperate to try something on my fish so I got the permanganate and did it in a bucket. They still don't look good and obviously didn't like the potassium permanganate bath.
<I bet.>
Thing is I don't know if I can get Maracyn in Australia. If this doesn't work, and they are still alive I will try it.
<Maracyn is only sold in the US over the counter… in most other countries antibiotics are prescription only. A vet can supply equivalents -- Maracyn 1 is Erythromycin, Maracyn 2 is Minocycline. But there are often non-antibiotic antibacterial medications sold as alternatives. Here in the UK, a typical product is eSHa 2000 that works well against external bacterial infections. Do consult your local retailer, and ask for good quality anti-Finrot medications if the problem is with the fins, scales or skin; avoid products based on tea-tree oil and suchlike as these tend to better used to prevent infections than to treat acute infections.>
I also called the fish guy at the pet shop back up to tell him what is going on and ask about my fish and he said it died too... Said it was looking fine then just died... hmm. Good news is the guppies in my main tank look ok so far. One a tiny bit fat though, loaches are fine and back to their hiding selves. My water is relatively hard. I don't know about salt, the pet shop guy put salt in with the others and they all died so hmm.
<In and of itself, salt, if used correctly, will NEVER do your Guppies harm; Guppies positively thrive in low-end brackish conditions! Something like 5-6 grams per litre of marine salt mix in a freshwater aquarium creates low-end brackish conditions than Guppies (and Mollies) adore, often doing better than in freshwater conditions. Loaches, on the other hand, dislike saline conditions, so should not be exposed to such conditions.>
Sarah
<Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Cyano outbreak!!!     5/21/13
Well, I went out and upgraded my circ. pump to a Hydor Koralia 425 gph. And also added a piece of polyfil to my filter.
My skimmer is skimming and I'm feeding next to nothing (just a small bit of Mysis that I rinse) and only once a day.
I'm very happy with the circ pump and I've checked for dead spots, and there are none!! Yay!
However, that dreaded red slime is still popping up on my substrate and now moving to my rocks. I'm pulling my hair out over this!!!
<Patience Heather... Cyano abatement takes time... sometimes weeks>
My numbers are all still good, as you can see from my last email, and they haven't changed. (Still struggling to lower nitrates) but at this point I'm not sure where they're coming from. We test our water that we change and make sure it's the same as our tank water.
The only thing left is our substrate. We have Ocean Direct Caribbean Live Sand. We have about 2 in. And we've been advised to add more. How do I go about adding?
<Simply pour it in... unless it's "too" dusty... in which case you'll want to freshwater rinse it (swirl around in a clean bucket till it runs clear... like rice in a rice cooker), then pour it in>
 Since the slime is on the substrate, do I remove as much slime as possible then add sand?
<Fine to just pour on top>
Help please! This Cyano is killing me!!!!
Thanks once again!
<Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Parasite ID     5/21/13
Good evening WWM crew,
<Brielle>
My hippo tang, flame angelfish, and clownfish may be infected <infested> with a parasite that I'm having trouble identifying. I have only seen it a few times on them, but they yawn a lot which leads me to believe it is mostly in their gills. It is about the length of lead in a mechanical pencil (a little smaller actually). I can just barely see it, but I can tell that it is long and narrow, not round. It does not move once attached until a few days later when it disappears. The fish lose a scale or two (turns whitish/clear and falls off) every few days. They have had this condition for a few weeks and the severity is not progressing quickly, so I don't think it is Ich. Any thoughts?
<Mmm, this may (just) be body mucus... some sort of irritation (many possibilities)... causing the fishes to exude>
Might parasitic copepods be this small?
<Can be; yes... but are not oblong, worm-like, unless the host is very large (bill fish, whales)>
 I have tried treating with Chloroquine phosphate and Praziquantel to no effect.
<Again; I'd do what you can to spiff up water quality here; see WWM... water changes, chemical filtrants, RedOx improvement... Unless you get samples, look under a microscope, I would NOT randomly medicate>
 I'd rather not use copper in my tank. Do you think parinox will help?
Thank you for your advice!
Brielle
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

A question about a fish bite     5/21/13
Dear Guys,
<Julia>
I am coming to you to ask a rather unusual question......My male Red Devil Bubba B is very tame, I have been hand feeding him for his entire life now  and he let's me pet his nuchal hump, he enjoys it actually, my question is this,  although he's tame and usually I can clean his tank with him inside, a few weeks  ago, he pulled a sneak attack on me and bit my hand and it drew blood, actually  you could see the teeth mark, I should have known better but I took my eye off  him, he's a fish fcs not a pet dog SIGH.  My question is this, can a fish  bite be harmful to humans in any way at all, I am not talking a shark here of  course, I am talking a Red Devil.  Many thanks as always to you guys at  WWM.   Julia
<Not the bite of a cichlid itself, but there might be bacterial involvement... the possibility of infection from an open wound in the tank.
I would wash the area with hot water and soap... Possibly apply an antibacterial cream... But now that time has gone by... just keep an eye on the wound site. Bob Fenner>
Re: A question about a fish bite     5/22/13
Bob thanks, it's been a few weeks now and it's finally healing but it makes me wonder in case he get's a hold of me again sigh,
<Mmm, well; in a sort of ideal world it would be great to have a very large tank, and a system in place to "drop in" a divider; a physical barrier to keep this fish on one side while you're working on t'other>
 to be honest I do believe I  am going to be left with a scar, at the time it only felt like he nudged me  not bit me at all, wasn't until I actually pulled my hand out and dried it off  and then noticed the blood, I have to be more careful that's for sure, he's  older now and still growing!  I remember at the time I did use peroxide  and I used A & D, I do have a cream though and will use it if it happens  again.  I do think it's time for a bucket while I clean his tank, my  fingers aren't his food lol.   Thanks very much as always, I had to be  sure on this one.   J
<Cheers, BobF>

Nudibranch? ID     5/22/13 Hi <Ash> Last night I found this little critter on my torch coral, I have noticed it has been losing a tip every week or so but nothing drastic. I touch the approach that if it is on a coral it most likely eats it but wondered if you knew more. It's very light averse and almost completely flat. It's about one inch long. Cheers Ash <This appears to be a flatworm. Can you describe its movement/locomotion? Bob Fenner>

Re: Nudibranch? ID     5/22/13 Hi Bob, <Ash> Thanks for the quick reply, <Welcome> The end to the left of the photo (with the line clear line down the centre of the animal) appears to be the "head" end and is the direction of travel. It appears to move very smoothly and quite quickly in the direction of travel with contraction. <Ahh, a Platyhelminth> On close inspection there is a very very thin orange line around the edge of the work and the coloration is made up of brown spots and lines surrounding the clear pattering through the centre. Ash <And notably; I'll note... a bold gross color and marking appearance to a Chiton... perhaps camouflage. Not likely damaging anything here. Bob Fenner>

Snails, disease. Trouble in a small volume     5/22/13
Hello- I hope you can help. We have a 2.5 gallon tank with 3 apple snails (I'm pretty sure they are apple snails) two are big and one is little (dime size) then other two are about the size of a tootsie pop. My sons guppy died from a parasite. Do snails get parasites?
<Yes; they do... and perhaps more importantly, there are several (some important) human diseases/parasites that gastropod molluscs are vectors, intermediate hosts for>
Also, for the first time last night I noticed all three snails where extending some sort of third very large antenna!
<... breathing tube. Put the string "Ampullaria breathing tube" in your search tool/s>
 It was the first time I had seem it and it was very alien like. We thought it was maybe a sex organ. Or maybe they also have a parasite? I can not find anything on the web about this and I'm kinda freaked out. I have since seen the smaller one retract and extend this "third antenna".... Weird.
Thanks! Ashlee
<Keep your hands out of their tank, wear rubber gloves; wash your hands w/ hot water and soap after handling... Bob Fenner>

Parasite, Disease, or bite?     5/21/13 Hello and thanks again for letting me as another question.  I have 2 new clownfish and they were healthy and fine and still act healthy. Today I noticed the large of the mated pair (female I assume) has a circular mark on her side. I have searched for ring type parasites but I am not sure if this is one or if it just got to close for my Coral Beauty.  The mark I am speaking of is on the border of the orange and white on the bottom fish. Thanks again :) <I see it/this... and have looked at enlarged, enhanced. This appears to be a physical trauma mark rather than a parasite. I wouldn't treat this fish, or system; but keep my eyes open re aggression. Bob Fenner>

Re: re: Parasite, Disease, or bite?     5/22/13 Thanks again for all your help <Glad to be "here". BobF>

P. imperator... beh., comp.      5/20/13
Hi guys I have a quick question, I have a 5" emperor angel in my 187 gallon tank ( tank dimensions 60"x30"x24"), I've had him for around 8 months but recently I noticed blotchy white patches all over his body,
<Mmm, such are usually due to "emotional distress"; though can be physiological directly>
 I went to feed my fish today and as usual the emperor & my puffer
<Mmm, what species, size is this puffer?>
 where the first two fish up at the top of the tank but when I fed the fish he sort of picked at the food and didn't seem his bullish self now he has got me a bit worried, the blotchy white patches have appeared and his colour has faded a bit, is this a disease or is the angel still in the process of changing from juvenile to adult coloration?
<Perhaps a bit of the latter>
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Steve
<I'd be keeping my eye on the puffer, other livestock here. Something is not to the Emperor's liking. Bob Fenner>
Re: re:     5/21/13
Thanks for the reply Bob
The puffer is a Stars and Stripes puffer he's around 7 inches,
<Mmm, the principal, a principal culprit>
But I've never seen either the puffer or emperor go near each other in an aggressive manner
<... just the same... could be intimidating the Angel>
 not even when food is in the tank in fact the puffer is the most docile fish in the tank. I know the emperor will get too big for the tank but I don't think he has to compete for space or food at the moment, I should point out that he isn't breathing heavily and is swimming around as normal and he has started to eat again and  be his normal bullish self so I'm pretty happy with that, but I was over in my lfs and they said I should give him a formaldehyde dip
<?! I would NOT do this. Too toxic and traumatizing>
but I don't want to stress him or do a dip just incase it has a negative effect on him, but the white patches are still bothering me so I was just wondering if you think  is it best to do the dip or have the poor fish go through unnecessary stress by catching him and putting him in a bucket if there is nothing wrong with him, I appreciate your input Bob.
Thanks
Steve
<As prev. stated; I'd just stay observant at this point. BobF>

Pregnant Diamondback Terrapin     5/21/13
Hello.
<Hiya - Darrel here>
My concern involves my 9 year old female Diamondback Terrapin.
<When I was a kid in Florida and I wanted a turtle, by parents bought me the basic care book on Turtles - and it had a Diamondback on the cover.  Thinking was THE coolest turtle in the world, I read and learned and got all set up to have one -- and there was none to be had.  All the pet stores had were Red Eared Sliders, so I never go my Diamondback.  Even to this day I think about them kinda wistfully.   Hmmm … now I'm wondering if that's part of my problem?>
First off, I found her (and a male) 9 years ago off of a Jersey Bay when I was walking home. The two terrapins were a little larger then quarters so I imagined they had just hatched. Instead of heading to the bay, the babies headed into the road and they were the only two out of about 20 I saw that were still alive. Anyway, about a month ago my female started wanting out of the tank constantly, attempting to climb out anyway she could. I had no idea she was pregnant until about a week and a half ago I found an egg at the bottom of the tank.
<Strange, frenetic activity during the early spring is a typical sign>
Since I found the egg, she would do nothing but lay out on the basking dock 24/7. After two days of her not eating or swimming, I set up a separate tank for her with a swimming area and a beach of crushed shells and sand hoping she would lay the 'rest' of the eggs so she would start acting normal. Since she's been in this tank she's ate some food, but she still doesn't seem right. I'm very worried and I just want to know if she's acting this way because there's more eggs to come, she's sick or dying?
<She's probably not sick or dying.  She probably is gravid (That's a $5 word meaning 'pregnant with eggs') and she's probably uncomfortable.  Let me give you the general picture about turtles and eggs:>
<Females often gestate eggs - even when there are no males present.  If the conditions aren't right in any number of ways, her body just reabsorbs the eggs and that's the end of it.  If the conditions are good enough, the eggs will develop the hard shell on the outside.  Once that happens she can't reabsorb and starts looking for places to lay them.   They become nervous and active and frantically walking around.  Even when presented with a nesting box they'll search every inch, often digging "test holes" just to see, only to abandon them in favor of another and another and another.  It always reminds me of my ex-wife shopping for shoes - no male, human, turtle or otherwise, could ever know what's better about one than another but if we even dare to ask the question we're liable to get our heads bitten off.>
<ANYWAY … if no suitable location is found they will often just deposit them on the floating dock or even in the water - just to get rid of them.  In a very small percent of cases - and I mean one in perhaps a thousand, the eggs just stay in the oviduct and sort of calcify into stones.  If that happens they seem to lead normal, happy lives, but their fertile days are over.>
<What you can do for Snickey (assuming her name is Snickey) is to give her a nesting box.   Get a large plastic storage tub with high sides from a Building Supply store and a bag of peat moss and a bag of Vermiculite.   The Vermiculite now comes only in large (2 cu ft) bags called Therm-o-Rock.   Mix half & half into the tub until it's about 8 inches deep and then place it in the direct sun.   Place a cover over part, so there is some shade, and then put Snickey in there and see what she does.   You may have to arrange some sort of additional walls so that she can't climb out, but if you leave her in there for a couple days and nights, she might decide it's worth trying.>
<Don't worry about her not eating or basking.   She's well equipped to go a week or two without either of those.  On the other hand, after a few days, if she's just sitting there looking at you like she has no idea what she did to be put in turtle jail, put her back in her regular tank for a day or two and then try again>
 Any advice would be great. Thank you so much.   -Sheena

Re: Hi, my guppy is starving, what do I do, I think he is going to die?     5/21/13
Hi again Neale
<Sarah,>
I cured that guppy.
<Well done!>
A lot has happened since the last email, 5 fish were looking bad including the one I cured which showed some signs of something wrong. Signs: Odd coloration/goldishwhiteness, random holes in fins, fin rot and splits, extra respiration and some reddened gills, lethargicness
<Ah, yes, does sound bad… in the case of Guppies, do check water chemistry (should be hard and alkaline -- 10+ degrees dH, pH 7-8); up the temperature (to around 26-28 C); add a little salt if possible (1 teaspoon per US gallon is a good start). These will perk up Guppies if they're merely unhappy with ambient conditions. It's also a good idea to think about opportunistic bacterial infections, some of which are treatable.>
So surprisingly I gave the fish to the fish 'expert' guy where I got them from and basically he said they would live. I said they need treatment asap or they will die. Anyway I followed up a week later and he told me they ALL died except one.
<Oh.>
Now 3 in my tank were looking odd, 2 with all those symptoms and 1 with just some. I took them into a quarantine tank and have been battling to keep the ammonia under check and treat. Needless to say the Tetracycline treatment didn't work, well at least not on these. Ich treatment didn't work. I am starting to think it is Columnaris disease and I am going to get Methylene blue or potassium permanganate tomorrow to do a bath with them. How do I do this exactly? how much parts water to how much parts of one or the other? and for how long?
<I would recommend neither medication. Methylene Blue is a mild anti-fungal more than anything else; it's used in breeding tanks for example to keep eggs from going mouldy. Problem is that Columnaris isn't a fungus. As for Potassium Permanganate, it's toxic stuff, nasty to you, your fish and your filter.>
They are all looking slow and bad, one has been going through periods of corkscrewing, i tried the pea method but it doesn't seem to be working… I really don't think these guys have much time left at all. So tomorrow fingers crossed I can get that stuff I can give it a try. Hopefully that doesn't mean sacrificing a uni lecture. Its either that or waiting till after 10pm to treat them...
<I'd review water conditions as outlined above, and then use a broad spectrum antibiotic, such as the classic Maracyn 1 and 2 combination. As ever, give your aquarium a decent clean and water change before using it, and then remove carbon from the filter (if used).>
So really hope they hold out. My loaches have been swimming around a lot and respirating more than usual.
<These definitely wouldn't like the Potassium Permanganate!>
Had a big disaster in the morning where the tank temperature plummeted to 13 degrees Celsius because someone fiddled with the power point but it got back up slowly and they seem to be ok but I'm worried they might have it. If they do, how can I treat them in the main tank?
<Loaches should perk back from brief exposure to chilling without any further medication.>
Thanks so much ah I hope they all live
<Hope this helps, Neale.>

Angelfish and Cory cats, fdg.      5/21/13
Hello:
<Judy>
I have one huge angelfish in a 46 gallon and three small corycats. I bought algae wafers and after I feed the angelfish he dives down for the wafer also.
<What an oinker!>
   I hope the corycats are not going hungry. They are about 1.5 inches and are really active. Could this angelfish be to much of a bully even for corycats?
<Could but not likely... Callichthyid/Corydoras catfish are "armored" and quite spiny. You'd know if any of the cats were missing eyes...>
 Thank you
<I would feed other sinking foods (small pellets, likely Spectrum brand) simultaneously while feeding the angel. Bob Fenner>

Engineer Gobies - how many is too many?     5/21/13
HI Bob (or crew), hope you're well! My 200G 5' FOWLR tank currently has 2 very large volitan lions, a harlequin tusk, a red Coris wrasse, and a large (12") engineer goby. I see that a teacher in a nearby school is looking to place 6 small engineer gobies, to shut down her small saltwater tank.
These fish are now about 4". I've thought I might take these in and grow them to size in my 30G (currently empty) aquarium, then transfer to my larger tank.
<Sounds good>
Would you attempt this?
<Yes I would>
Is this too much of an engineer crowd for a 200G to sustain?
<Mmm, no... the adults are secretive as you know... live communally... I think it would be many years before they were too much>
The current goby seems to have cleaned out all sand from the existing rockwork, and seems happy to be a loner, but I've wanted to increase the tank's headcount anyway...
<The solitary animal will be glad of the company. Bob Fenner>

Miniatus Grouper on the menu - Guangzhou, China     5/21/13 Bob, I returned from a China adoption trip a few weeks ago. While at a restaurant in Guangzhou, I took this picture of the live dinner display tank. There were several specimens waiting to be served as a tasty dish that we pay big bucks for in the trade on this side of the globe. My young daughters speak and read Mandarin (conversational level), but we couldn't find or price this miniatus grouper on the menu. Anyway, thought the crew might enjoy this picture. 1', maybe? My 7 year old daughter gives some size reference. <Ah yes; Lapu Lapu, Cephalopholis miniata... an ignominious end here. BobF>

Crack in sump Please help    5/19/13
Hi there, I woke today and noticed my external dolphin pump was making a weird noise. I disconnected the pump, and  cleaned it. When I went to go connect it again my sump cracked!
<Oh! No fun... and quite common when there's much force on through puts here>
it got 16" crack all the way down the side of it. I pulled out the water out of my sump below the crack. I bought some GE silicone 1 to fix it. Well this work, or am I screwed?
<Mmm, I'd very likely replace the tank itself... too likely that the repair will prove unsuccessful, unsightly. You could save the cracked/repaired one for a back up... but I'd affix a new piece/panel over the entire visible side... redrill>
 I have a 180 salt tank and sump is 70gallon. I also read the instruction on the back and says I got 12 hours before I can fill it back up.
<Give this 24 hours>
 My fish wont make it that long.
<Mmm, they should... put all pumps, aerators in the main/display tank>
 I pulled all the water out and put it in my r.o. bucket. I did leave the live rock in there. Please help, Becky
<Perhaps an acrylic sump replacement. Bob Fenner>
Re: Crack in sump Please help, now bad Dolphin pump.     5/20/13
Thank you Bob, I went to bed my pump was quiet I got up and it was way loud. I cleaned it out and its still loud. Its a dolphin Ampmaster pump. Not even six months old I paid $400 for it.
<Send it back... it will be replaced>
�� Its a good lessen to not work on your tank at 4 in the morning. Becky
<Yikes! BobF>

P. imperator... beh., comp.      5/20/13
Hi guys I have a quick question, I have a 5" emperor angel in my 187 gallon tank ( tank dimensions 60"x30"x24"), I've had him for around 8 months but recently I noticed blotchy white patches all over his body,
<Mmm, such are usually due to "emotional distress"; though can be physiological directly>
 I went to feed my fish today and as usual the emperor & my puffer
<Mmm, what species, size is this puffer?>
 where the first two fish up at the top of the tank but when I fed the fish he sort of picked at the food and didn't seem his bullish self now he has got me a bit worried, the blotchy white patches have appeared and his colour has faded a bit, is this a disease or is the angel still in the process of changing from juvenile to adult coloration?
<Perhaps a bit of the latter>
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Steve
<I'd be keeping my eye on the puffer, other livestock here. Something is not to the Emperor's liking. Bob Fenner>

Borbonius mark, scam product/s     5/20/13 Hi, <Frank> I am worried about my borbonius Anthias.  He has a mark on his side and i determined that his spots are not flukes/Ich. <Mmm, no; this is due to a physical trauma... the other mucus spots likewise... not patterned like neuromast destruction/HLLE... the fish either ran into something or something ran into it...>  He had this mark for a month and is eating normal and acting normal.  The fish also has white bumps  by the eyes. I tried ruby reef rally <Worthless... see WWM re this scam, co.> to see if it would help, but all it did was lower my ph in which i lost a big xenia colony, a beautiful gorgonian, a plate coral, and my maxima clam. <.... Arghhhh>  I'm worried that this could get infected. <Not likely...>   My only guess that it could be a small bite mark from my clownfish (female).  <Oh yes> I do not see any real aggression from my clown, but she definitely bites me when my hands in the tank (she knows how to go between my fingers).  Anyway enclosed are some pics that i took when he stood still for me.  Lastly, my parameters are all normal (ph, ammonia, nitrate and nitrite).  My salinity is 1.026 and temp stays consistent around 78.  Thank you. <No treatment advised; though you may want to move either this fish or the female clown... Separate them. Bob Fenner>

Bitten

Book of coral propagation; PVC use     5/20/13
Hi guys! My question is for Anthony Calfo, or anyone who can answer well for him as a follow up question to the book of coral propagation.
<Unfortunately Anthony is no longer w/ WWM... He "flipped out" a few years back, and has no Net relations whatsoever. I'll respond to your query instead>
 In the text, Anthony writes about using PVC pipe as a frame for building live rock structures in order to achieve some nice overhangs, etc in an aquascape.  When doing so, if I have a PVC frame I've built, should I leave the ends of the PVC pipes open or closed?
<Open>
 I would like to avoid any stagnant water, so I would assume that closed would keep water out of the PVC, thus avoiding creating chambers of water with little water movement, however, it seems to me that if they were capped off the PVC structure would be full of air and difficult to submerge. Which is the better way of utilizing PVC to create a frame from
which to attach live rock without creating dead zones such as those that would be inside an open PVC pipe in a frame structure?
<As you speculate; with no caps, plugs>
As always, I am humbled by your experience and knowledge and look to you for suggestions so that I may increase my enjoyment of our beloved hobby.
Thank you.
Tom
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Re: commercial holding tank questions     5/18/13
Hi Bob...Thanks for the quick reply as usual.  When you say replace with coral sand what type do you mean?
<Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/marsetupindex1.htm
Scroll down to "Marine Substrates">
  I should clarify from my first email that I currently have the CaribSea Special Grade aragonite sand which is more like small coral chips than sugar sized sand.  Is that what you were referencing?
<Am a fan of the maker and this product, but it's not what I'd use... you'll read re why>
  I was thinking I needed to remove all the calcium based substrates and
rock in the system if I wanted to run copper? 
<Mmm, no... will have to replace more frequently, but has to be done w/ or w/o>
My ORP is currently at 250
<Too low... See WWM re>
but no ozone or UV sterilization is currently on as the CP is still running through the holding system.
<It "only lasts a day" or so... is not good for continuous treatment>
 The 150g sized sump was as big as space allowed unfortunately.  I think I am leaning more towards setting up another holding system in a separate back room to hold new arrival shipments. 
<Ahh, worthwhile... IF you can build a customer base that will justify the expense... takes time... a few years in most markets>
I usually only do 2-3 boxes of fish at a time anyways so I'm looking at a maximum of 50 or so fish an order.  I have never had much success using copper
<What brand/make?>
 which is why I was so interested in in using the CP as it seems much gentler on the fish and if I understand correctly treats the big three diseases (crypt, velvet, brook).   I was thinking maybe a 4ft  three level pallet rack with 3 x 75 gallon tanks divided into cubicles.  Each level could be it's own separate system if I do some type of closed loop from left to right with a small circulation pump to push the water from left to right and the slotted dividers to hold the fish in sections.  Crypt prone fish (tangs, angels, puffers) could go in one 75g system.   Disease resistant fish(wrasses, gobies, damsels) in a separate 75g system.  Or would it be better to just do one larger system with a small sump and treat all fish as one.
<A tough question... for expedience sake, I'd likely run as one... w/ a separate system for non-fishes of course>
  How many gallons do you recommend for a good QT system for my size orders(40-50 fish)?
<What you state is about right>
 How long to hold new fish in the QT?
<A week or two... depending on the frequency of incoming shipments, how much holding capacity you have>
 I was thinking one to two weeks if no symptoms occur?   I would like to do this store the "right" way and I am willing to invest the capital to keep the livestock healthy and well conditioned.  One final question...for my 1000g saltwater system what would your recommendation be for my UV and Ozone?
<... the latter... >
  Is 1g/h enough for 1000g?
<Should be... do you have a dryer? You may need one>
 300watts for the UV?
<Depends on the quality. Am a huge fan of TMC/Vectron and Emperor Aquatics here>
  Like I said I was thinking of upgrading my Ozone and UV anyways so I would like your thoughts on size recommendations if possible.  Thanks again for all your help.
<Glad to help. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Exporter of Giant Clams     5/18/13
Hi Bob,
<Norileen>
I just want to introduce our Micro Exporter Company of Tridacna Clams in beautifully Island of Palau. We ship anywhere specially USA, Germany, Europe and Asia.
I wrote you because I know that you can introduce our company to some of the Importer that looking to export of Giant Clams.
Hope to hear from you soon.
Thank you and Regards,
Norileen
<Do you want to send along your contact information for posting/sharing?
Bob Fenner>
Re: Exporter of Giant Clams    5/19/13
You can contact us at +6807786381 or email us at microexporter@gmail.com  for inquiries.
Thank you
<Good fortune to you on your endeavor. Bob Fenner>

Cyano outbreak!!! Sm. SW     5/18/13
I've been reading all of the info about Cyano and hoping this is just a phase, but I do have a question(s) maybe you could shed some light on.
<I hope so>
I have a 29 gallon Biocube that I have done a few small upgrades on in the last week. I removed the Bioballs and replaced with Fluval ceramic rings.
<Good>
 I also bought and installed the stock Oceanic protein skimmer made for the Biocube, and am still fiddling with it to find the "sweet spot." And lastly, I added another 7 lbs of live rock to the already 20 lbs I have.
All of this was done to help drop my nitrates. I have also started doing small, twice weekly water changes as per Bobs advice.
<Ahh>
In the last few days I have had an out break of red slime on the front half of my live sand substrate. I notice in the morning, turning on the light it has almost disappeared, but by evening it has returned stronger than ever.
I feed a very small pinch of New Life Spectrum pellets in the morning and a bit of Mysis or some other frozen meaty food in the evening. I try my best to rinse the food, to get any excess juice off before I feed. Should I cut back on feeding?
<I definitely would... at least until the BGA issue is solved>
 I currently house: 1 Purple Dottyback, 1 Fireshrimp, 1 Banggai Cardinal, 2 Percularis clowns and an algae eating Urchin.
I test rigorously, today in fact, and my numbers are good: Specific gravity: 1.025 Ammonia and Nitrite: 0 Ph: 8.2-8.4  Nitrates: 10-20 (which I'm still struggling to get below 10, but a far cry from the 80 it was a week or two ago.)
Should I upgrade my stock circulation pump and get something to get my water moving better? Will that help?
<More circulation is better>
Some info says "yes" other info I read says "no."
Will this die off on its own in time and has only cropped up because of the new upgrades?
<I do hope the BGA will abate; your actions should help>
Do I need more (or less) sand? I have about 2 inches presently.
<More would definitely be better... 3.5-4" about ideal here>
Sorry for so many questions...again. Seems I'm full of them these days.
Thanks so much for all the helpful advice!!! Without this site, I don't know what I'd do!
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

"Red Leg" in ACFs    5/19/13 Hi Crew, <Guten tag, Julia!> this is not a question, but I´ve just read about the ADF with possible "Red Leg" infection, so I wanted to share my own experiences with this syndrome (if this is of interest; if not, feel free to ignore this Email ;)). <Ah, not our style.> A few months ago, I wanted to get a few buddies for my two ACFs (an adult pair, 42 gal tank, filtered, fully cycled, planted. No problems). I was able to acquire three frogs from a lab (one male, two females), which I moved into a 30 gal quarantine tank first. Smooth sand bottom, two terracotta pots, floating plants, an adequately sized canister filter. I checked the water daily (0 NO2, << 25 ppm NO3, pH 7.2, temp. about 68 °C, moderately hard water). <All sounds good. But do read this excellent summary by the RSPCA on the care of Xenopus spp in labs, here: http://www.rspca.org.uk/ImageLocator/LocateAsset?asset=document&assetId=1232712646624&mode=prd Among other things, a somewhat warmer temperature is recommended, around 22 C. I mention temperature because many tropical animals are sensitive to opportunistic infections when chilled, and even if otherwise tolerant of cool conditions, warming them up can get their immune systems working better.> They settled in just fine and for the first few days, everything was ok; they were active and always hungry just like my other frogs. But after six days, the new male suddenly became listless and had two tiny red spots on his feet as well as slightly swollen hind legs. I had a bad feeling about that and immediately separated him from the females before doing a large water change in the 30 gal tank. The next morning, he was barely moving and had several severe hemorrhages (he spent the night in a clean tank without any decor, so an injury is out of question). I took him to a vet, but it was too late and he died in the evening of the same day. <Very sad.> Because of the very fast progression of this infection (36 hours from a perfectly healthy frog to death), the vet gave me some Baytril to treat the females which didn´t show any symptoms yet preventatively. Luckily, this was successful and I could move them to the display tank four weeks after the end of the treatment. <Good.> In this case, I can rule out environmental problems as a cause. The frogs have lived under stressful conditions in the lab and I know of some deaths due to Aeromonas hydrophila in the colony before; I think the inevitable stress from being moved was just too much for this frog. <Could well have been, particularly if they were handled a bit roughly when moved. Capturing frogs can damage their skin as they rub against the gravel, net or your hands.> I just wanted to show that this is a very dangerous disease which requires a prompt reaction. The photo shows the frog shortly after its death. <Thanks for sharing. Hope your other frogs do better. Cheers, Neale.>

Crack in sump Please help    5/19/13
Hi there, I woke today and noticed my external dolphin pump was making a weird noise. I disconnected the pump, and  cleaned it. When I went to go connect it again my sump cracked!
<Oh! No fun... and quite common when there's much force on through puts here>
it got 16" crack all the way down the side of it. I pulled out the water out of my sump below the crack. I bought some GE silicone 1 to fix it. Well this work, or am I screwed?
<Mmm, I'd very likely replace the tank itself... too likely that the repair will prove unsuccessful, unsightly. You could save the cracked/repaired one for a back up... but I'd affix a new piece/panel over the entire visible side... redrill>
 I have a 180 salt tank and sump is 70gallon. I also read the instruction on the back and says I got 12 hours before I can fill it back up.
<Give this 24 hours>
 My fish wont make it that long.
<Mmm, they should... put all pumps, aerators in the main/display tank>
 I pulled all the water out and put it in my r.o. bucket. I did leave the live rock in there. Please help, Becky
<Perhaps an acrylic sump replacement. Bob Fenner>

Anemone or Polyp ID    5/19/13 Hello and thanks for taking time to read my email. I bought a Zoanthid and I noticed on the underside an anemone or polyp maybe. I was wondering if anyone could identify it. It is very small, there are 4 of them, they are translucent except at the tips which are a neon blue. <Mmm, yes; please send along (attached) a well-resolved image or two... of  a few hundred Kbytes size. Bob Fenner> Re Anemone or Polyp ID    5/19/13 (Grr accidentally hit send before I meant to, so disregard first message please.) Hello and thanks for taking time to read my email. I bought a Zoanthid and I noticed on the underside an anemone or polyp maybe. I was wondering if anyone could identify it. It is very small, there are 4 of them, they are translucent except at the tips which are a neon blue. <Ah yes; this appears to be a Corallimorpharian of the genus Pseudocorynactis. Do see WWM re. Bob Fenner>