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Genus Lobophyllia Blainville 1830.
Lobed/Flat Brain Coral. Sometimes massive colonies that tend to be
dome-shaped. Flabello-meandroid or phaceloid. Large corallites with
distinctive knobby, long septal teeth. Valleys (columellae) long
and deep, often of contrasting lighter color. Tentacles typically
light tipped. Fiji
Desktop size
download & Link to Archived Marine Daily Pix |
Updated 5/25/2013
Other Specialized Daily FAQs Blogs: Freshwater,
Brackish, Last
Few Days Accrued FAQs,
Daily Q&A replies/input from the WWM crew: Nate Guerette, Rick Novy, Bobby Rudro, Jordan
Stari, Sue Garrett, Darrel
Barton, Neale Monks, Marco Lichtenberger, Sabrina Sharp, James Gasta, Eric Russell, Chris Perivolidis,
Lynn Zurik, Chuck Rambo, Mike Kaechele, Bob
Fenner, are posted here. Moved about, re-organized daily
Current
Crew Bios., Not so current Crew
Bios
____________________________________________________________
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Re Cirrhilabrus abuse 5/25/13
Nate,
Getting back to you a little late, but the report so far is good.
The bully is gone, and the other fish already seem far more at ease.
<Excellent! Job well done!>
The fairy wrasse has come back out, but he is still quite week.
Hopefully he will pull through. I have at least 8 turbo snails at
work along with an assortment of Nassarius, Nerite, Astrea, and Cerith
snails at work. I'm hoping I can find a tuxedo urchin tomorrow. I
fixed the RO unit, so water quality is improving.
<Good good. That will make the battle much more strait forward. Keep
those phosphates down and let those Turbos do their
thing>
I actually have noticed a complete lack of algae growing on the windows
over the past week. The GHA will likely take a
little more time, but things seem to be improving. . I still have a lot
of work ahead of me. I think the rocks are going to get another
scrubbing on my next water change.
<Okiedoke. Good luck with that. Keep that Chaeto pruned and that skimmer
clean. -NateG>
Thanks again for all the help.
-Dave
|
Angel fish 5/25/13
Hi Crew,
<Laura>
It has been a while since I have written because everything has been
going well. I have attached a picture of my angel fish. These growths
appeared on it yesterday. I think it looks like cotton.
<... need to sample, look under a 'scope to be sure, but true fungal
issues are rare... This is likely bacterial following a trauma...>
It appears to be painful for the fish as the area around the growth is
very red. I tested my water and there is no ammonia and all other
components are within range. The angel fish is in with 3 hatchet fish, 6
bamboo shrimp, 3 peppered catfish, and 3 snails. The tank is 75 gallons.
The only thing that has been added recently is one bamboo shrimp. Any
advice provided will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Laura
<Read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_6/volume_6_2/mycobactera.htm
and the linked infectious disease FAQs at the bottom. Bob Fenner>
|
 |
of course the power goes out AFTER your tank cycles. . .
5/25/13
Hello, wish I was writing under happier circumstances (especially since
I do have a couple of questions I've been wanting to ask.
*sighs*). I've got a somewhat newly set up reef tank, a
biocube 29 with 25# of rock, a few LPS, and a pair of juvenile
percula clowns. Yesterday while I was out, the power went out at
my apartment complex, and while the power company said it would only be
out for an hour or so, it was out for 10. . . The
tank got to room temp, it was nearly 90 outside, but since the room I am
in was shadowed, and I had no lights on I'm assuming it wasn't much more
than 85 in here at most.
<Good... no feeding I hope/trust>
After the nitrogen cycle was over(with the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate staying
at 0 for over 2 weeks) I got the clowns, and they've been fine so far.
This morning neither is very active. The first is sticking next to
the glass, and while she was staying oriented the way she wanted to,
isn't swimming around, the second is looking like she is trying to right
herself and can't (both DO sleep next to the tank's rim, and I've only
got my blue lights on at the moment, so I am not sure if the second is
trying and failing, or is just unsure if it is morning somehow
since the lights aren't as bright as normal.) As for the corals,
my Acans are happy as ever, my torch is out and waving around, the
hammer is a bit retracted, but not all of the way, and so far the Duncan
is half open(it never gets fully open without the 10K lights on, though)
and both candy canes, which are newer additions, are a bit retracted,
but not completely.
<Should be fine>
I am leaving for work(of course it happens that way. . .) now, and after
am going to get a water test at my LFS, and grab 5 gallons of saltwater
to do that much of a water change, but what else can I do to hope I
don't have a re-cycling tank on my hands, and to help my fish and coral
get through it if it is?
Dani
<I'd do naught other than the water change. Bob Fenner>
Where do I report a broken link on your website?
5/23/13
Hello,
<Hey Brittany>
I just wanted to shoot you a quick message and let you know that I
encountered a broken link while on the wetwebmedia.com site today. I'm
not sure if there's a specific person to contact or a form for
submitting broken links, but if you could let me know I'll gladly send
that information along.
<Please do... running the diagnostic tool for these (there are a few
hundred thousand such links on the site) reveals more than I can keep up
with. But "important" ones need to be fixed. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Thanks! J
Re: Where do I report a broken link on your website?
5/23/13
Hello Bob,
<Brit>
The broken links I came across were on your page at:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/pondlinks.htm.
<Ahh, the site to site link pages...>
Here are the ones
that weren't working for me:
Internet Pond Society
Central Illinois Water Gardeners
Koi Society of Australia
Lee's Koi Corner
I hope that was helpful, I know what a pain it is to keep up with broken
links!
<Ah yes>
I don't know if you're looking to add new links, but if you are, please
have a look at www.thepondshop.com - some friends of mine recently
launched a site selling a lot of pond and water garden supplies so I
thought it might be something your readers would be interested in.
<Will do; thank you. BobF>
Thanks!
Brittany Sozak
brittany@twittertravels.com
www.americabyrail.com
www.twittertravels.com
Re: Cirrhilabrus abuse 5/23/13
Nate,
I have been feeding a mixture of foods. He gets Spectrum pellets, New
Era Marine Pellets, Rod's Original and Pacific Plankton, and freeze
dried Cyclop-eeze. I soak the Rods in Selcon and VitaChem as well.
<All pretty good stuff. Make sure you are turning down/off the pumps
when you feed.
Both the Selcon and VitaChem taste pretty bad. Try a drop of VitaChem
and 2 drops of garlic extract per cube. Pick up some Spirulina enriched
brine and some PE Mysis. Put one cube of each and a few tablespoons of
tank water into a very small Tupperware container. Add your drops. I use
a similar mixture and it can stay in the fridge 4-5 days easy.>
He take care to make sure he eats everyday, but clearly more is needed.
I am not sure about my kH as my test kit is a Seachem which does meq/L.
It usually measures 2.5-3 meq/L with ph being about 8.1. <K cool>
I'll get the bully removed,
feed smaller and more frequently, and start a series of large water
changes with some better source water. <Got that RO unit working yet?>
Hopefully I can report back in a few weeks with better news. <Report
back tomorrow after you get that jerk outa there haha> I do have
one last question while I am writing. If manage to get him
healthy again, would it be safe and beneficial(more concerned about the
latter) to add a female? <Not sure about that> I have seen a few sources
saying fairy wrasses do better with a female or two. <Yes if the tank is
large enough and if the females are added first/simultaneously> As I
stated, this would be down the line when I am sure he is healthy. One
thing at a time.
<Yes indeedy! Get yourself some good water and a clean up crew of sorts
to get rid of that hair algae. I mean an army haha then remove enough of
them afterwards so they don't starve/fight. -NateG>
Thanks again .
-Dave
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Fish ID Question 5/23/13
Hi,
I love your website.
I have what I thought was a Heniochus diphreutes in my
tank,
<Mmm; yes>
I had initially believed it would be reef safe.
<Not always...>
He is very peaceful when it comes to his fellow fish in the tank, but he
is nipping a lot when it comes to corals (there is damage). The
corals he favors are Palys, candy cane, and Duncan. He is very
well fed, so I don't believe his nipping is out of frantic hunger. I
have attached a picture for your input (please let me know if the
picture is a good enough quality). Is he a H. diphreutes or is he
a H. acuminatus?
<Appears to be the former... little mouth, rounded "breast"...>
I am having a lot of trouble distinguishing between the two.
<See WWM, other places re... easy to distinguish seen side by side>
It may be time for this guy to find a new fish only home, which is a
shame because he is truly awesome to watch.
Thank you
AD
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>
|
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Phosphates. Measuring zip
5/24/13
Hi Crew,
I run a marine tank which is about 18 months old and heavily stocked
with fish which are all very well and I do not normally test for
Phosphates but as I want to add some inverts so I tested for Phosphates
with a Salifert test kit and they showed virtually Zero. Not complaining
but is this normal?
<It certainly can be. Good food/protein skimming/water
changes/"aquascape" can all contribute. -Nate>
Regards,
Adam
tapwater readings... anomalous for tap/China, Neotrop.
Cichlid use 5/24/13
Hi Crew.
<Henk>
I've moved recently, and am a bit confused by current tapwater readings:
pH 8.7-8.8
<Whoa, high! Though ours here in San Diego is generally 8.2-8.4>
(electronically measured but drip test gives similar readings of pH8-9),
KH 0-1, GH 0-3. Not sure if it matters, but I live in
China, and I have no idea what chemicals/processes are used to treat the
tapwater.
<Strange... something not registering (much) as general or carbonate
hardness... I'd use a standardized solution or two to check you meter>
If I store the water for one or more days pH remains stable and does not
decrease. If I add baking soda pH seems to go up and then come down to
basically the same level as the tapwater, i.e. around 8.7-8.8.
Currently I add Epsom salts and baking soda, to increase KH and GH,
while aerating the water for a minimum of 24 hours, and I add Seachem
Prime to the stored water just before I make the water change.
I've tried SeachemMarine Buffer hoping this would stabilize pH around
8.3 but instead pH exceeds 9 after addition of this product.
<Mmm, yes>
I am keeping Central American Cichlids (Nicaragua Cichlids and
Thorichthys Maculipinnis) so it's not that I need to get my pH down to 7
or so...but still, I am not sure if a steady pH of 8.8 isn't a bit over
the top here.
<Could well be... I'd get/use a reverse osmosis device to mix water for
your neotropical Cichlids and your potable uses>
Is a steady pH of 8.8 acceptable for these fish?
<Too high>
Is there any (simple) way I can increase hardness and lower pH?
<Not as far as I'm aware. There is something anomalous here... You need
to check your checkers... and look into RO>
Thanks.
Henk Naert
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: tapwater readings; parsimony rules
5/24/13
Hello Bob,
<Henk>
Thanks for your speedy response. Just wanted to let you know that indeed
the simplest explanation (unfortunately often overlooked) is most often
correct. Just put a spare Tetra test kit to use, and my tap water tests
7.5 out of the faucet (will test again tomorrow after aerating 24
hours),
<Ah!>
tank water tests at 8 (which I assume seems to be correct considering I
add baking soda to the water I prepare for water changes). Tap water
currently KH1, GH4; tank water KH4, GH8. I assume these values make more
sense.
<Yes>
Would you further increase KH and GH or is it fine as it is now ?
<Mmm, I'd leave as is... and make substantial water changes weekly... a
third of volume perhaps... vacuuming the bottom>
(I have been a bit conservative adding baking soda and Epsom salts not
understanding very well what was off with the pH value). I guess
electronic meter needs to be recalibrated or is not functioning
properly.
<Quite common>
Thanks for your help!
Henk Naert
<Thank you, BobF>
Are there any corals that can withstand 115 degrees
Fahrenheit or 45 degrees Celsius? 5/24/13
Hi
I am from India. Here the problem is temperature and power cuts ( i am
talking about 4 to 8 hrs).
<Ahh, do see last weeks Economist magazine... re your country... what
might be done to improve so many people there's lots>
You can run a fish only tank or even an anemone tank with the skimmer (but
you can forget about the heavy wattage lights) in an inverter for so
long. But there is no way you can run a chiller that long. So i was
wondering are there beginner corals that can withstand this heat.
<None that I'm aware of... All cnidarians suffer heat stress in the high
80's F>
Here they use diesel generators to power their chillers (which is viable
for rich guys but at the price diesel is selling us moderate guys
can't?). Since you have a very wide knowledge please reply?
<Mmm, I'd leave the lights off (and maybe the top of the aquarium!)
during the day... only run them at night when it's cooler. Floating bags
or containers of ice can help in short danger periods>>
thx
ajeet
P.s Temperature range 23 C to 45 C
<Yeeikes! Stay cool Ajeet. Bob Fenner>
Dwarf Puffer - Died 5/24/13
Hi,
<Daniel>
Yesterday one of my dwarf puffers appeared very bloated and wasn't at
all active, this morning the puffer fish has died.
<Bunk!>
On close inspection, one side of the puffer fish is red and it looks
very large and swollen.
<Mmm>
My tank is 180L and I have (had) 2 dwarf puffers and 3 Otos.
<Well... there is some overlap twixt these fish species
chemical/physical environmental ranges>
Temp:77-80F
Nitrites:0
Nitrates: 40ppm straight out of tap,
<Yeeikes! I'd get/use an RO device for your potable needs>>
so using a nitrate removal filter to
Nitrates: 0 ppm
Ammonia: 0.001(from Seneye, verified as "0" with an API test kit)
Adding co2 (KH 12, bringing ph down to 7.2) - controlled via a PH
controller. PH verified with Seneye
My other dwarf puffer appears fine.
<Mmm, mysterious>
This was really unexpected and happened very quickly within the space of
48 hours.
Do you have any idea what could have caused this?
<Likely "something internal"... These puffers often have lumenal
parasite issues. I so wish the trade would prophylactically treat all
imports w/ Metronidazole and an anthelminthic (Likely Praziquantel)...
Do read re these medications on WWM>
Regards,
D
<Sorry for your loss, and thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>
|
Re: Hair algae battle. fish gone haywire, Now starved,
bullied Cirrhilabrus
Hello again Nate,
<Hiya Dave>
I decided I should update you because I have more questions about my
solon fairy wrasse. First of all, the melanurus wrasse is going to
be moved tomorrow.
<Good>
He is clearly doing some bullying as he will sometimes give chase to
pretty much anything in the tank that crosses his path.
<Not so good>
Very disappointing as almost all accounts I have read were of a
relatively peaceful fish. Anyway, I'm afraid the solon wrasse has
gotten worse. He appears malnourished and has taken to hiding most
of the time. I can still coax him out to eat, but tonight he has
even been finicky about that.
<What have you tried using for food? Have you tried garlic? How many
times a day are you feeding? Better to feed small amounts more often
throughout the day rather than say one gluttonous feast>
I noticed him performing the barrel rolls again the other day as he ate,
and tonight he repeatedly went into a corner and rolled to his side
before righting himself.
<After looking at that picture, I can't imagine it has all that much
strength.>
When he does swim openly, he tends to hang around the circle and swim
with his head down as if watching underneath him. I also noticed
some black lines that seemed to follow the lines of his scales. I
have attached a picture so hopefully you can see something I am not
seeing. I also attached a picture of him when I got him almost 6
months ago for reference. My best guess is malnutrition and stress from
being bullied. I want to do my best to save this fish.
<I wish you the best of luck my friend. He has clearly seen
brighter/better days. Get the one out and fatten the other up. I sifted
through the old messages and no mention of alkalinity. Keep a close eye
on your ph and kH with the way your tank is looking. -NateG>
Thanks again,
Dave
|
.jpg) |
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Re: Hair algae battle. fish gone haywire
Nate,
I have been feeding a mixture of foods. He gets Spectrum pellets, New Era
Marine Pellets, Rod's Original and Pacific Plankton, and freeze dried
Cyclop-eeze. I soak the Rods in Selcon and VitaChem as well.
<All pretty good stuff. Make sure you are turning down/off the pumps when
you feed. Both the Selcon and VitaChem taste pretty bad. Try a drop of
VitaChem and 2 drops of garlic extract per cube. Pick up some Spirulina
enriched brine and some PE Mysis. Put one cube of each and a few tablespoons
of tank water into a very small Tupperware container. Add your drops. I use
a similar mixture and it can stay in the fridge 4-5 days easy.>
He take care to make sure he eats everyday, but clearly more is needed.
I am not sure about my kH as my test kit is a Seachem which does meq/L. It
usually measures 2.5-3 meq/L with ph being about 8.1. <K cool> I'll
get the bully removed, feed smaller and more frequently, and start a series
of large water changes with some better source water.
<Got that RO unit working yet?>
Hopefully I can report back in a few weeks
with better news. <Report back tomorrow after you get that jerk outa there
haha> I do have one last question while I am writing. If manage to get
him healthy again, would it be safe and beneficial (more concerned about the
latter) to add a female?
<Not sure about that>
I have seen a few sources saying fairy wrasses do better with a female or
two.
<Yes if the tank is large enough and if the females are added
first/simultaneously>
As I stated, this would be down the line when I am sure he is healthy. One
thing at a time.
<Yes indeedy! Get yourself some good water and a clean up crew of sorts to
get rid of that hair algae. I mean an army haha then remove enough of them
afterwards so they don't starve/fight. -NateG>
Thanks again .
-Dave
|
Re: Snails
Wow. Thank you. I did not know their parasites could affect humans.
<... Schistosomiasis... so many more>
What do I search to find symptoms to watch with my kids?
<...?>
I am getting rid of them. Thank you. -Ashlee
<Don't be backward... read re. BobF>
Re: A question about a fish bite, one of the C. Am. Red
Devil spp.
I never thought of putting up a crate screen to keep him on one side, I
can do that even with this 110, I have a "egg crate screen" I got in the
lighting dept at Lowe's long ago and made a divider when I was
trying to breed my female with him,
<Ahh!>
it didn't work out at all, he loved her but he was a brute to her
small body, I will never do that again. I can use that to keep him
on one side absolutely. My ideal dream would be to release
him in his native land
<A poor idea for a few reasons... Too much pollution getting it there,
too much of a chance of undesirable introduction, small likelihood it
would survive...>
sigh, after he goes I will never have a big fish again, I wish I could
donate him to the Shedd aquarium in Chicago or something like
that,
<Ask them... or put an advert on Craig's List, what have you>
he's like a pet dog here, very loved and spoiled and he has a good
life I guess for a fish. No more big fish for Julia after
this one, I find it sort of cruel to house them in anything less
than a 300 gallon + at this point and I know Bob that you feel the
same way about these marvelous intelligent fish.
<Ah yes>
Thanks again for the idea on the divider, it's better than a bucket,
I imagine he would stress out on that. Julia
<Cheers, B>
Where do I report a broken link on your website?
Hello,
<Hey Brittany>
I just wanted to shoot you a quick message and let you know that I
encountered a broken link while on the wetwebmedia.com site today. I'm
not sure if there's a specific person to contact or a form for
submitting broken links, but if you could let me know I'll gladly send
that information along.
<Please do... running the diagnostic tool for these (there are a few
hundred thousand such links on the site) reveals more than I can keep up
with. But "important" ones need to be fixed. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Thanks! J
Re: Green Spotted Puffer 5/21/13
I tried what you suggested but unfortunately it was too late for spot.
His stomach would turn as black as coal and his skin looked wrinkled
like an old man. Not sure what he had but was shipped to me from Pet
Zone of San Diego off Aquabid.com. Stay away from this store. The fish
they sent me had a fungus and other internal problems and infected
another fish before I
knew it had a fungus. I presume their store conditions are horrible and
would not suggest shopping there!
Sincerely: Steven
<Sorry to hear about the bad ending to this tale. Does indeed sound like
you've had a bad experience with this vendor; let's hope this isn't
typical. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Red Feet/Safe Plants 5/21/13
I just wanted to let you know that we did get the medicine, and are on
the third day of the treatment. I have been putting both types of
Maracyn in the water, which is how I understood what you said
previously. But ever since I started it, a white fuzz has been
gathering on my frog. Is this just from the medicine or is there
something else wrong?
<If the threads are fluffy, like cotton wool, then it's fungus. Quite
common alongside bacterial infections. Methylene Blue and other
anti-fungal remedies may help.>
Also, does the Maracyn cause the frogs pain?
<Should not do so, no; it's merely an antibiotic.>
Because when I sprinkle it in the water, I notice he twitches around and
seems like he's trying to escape from it or rub it off on the rocks in
the water.
Thank you!
Amanda
<Most welcome, Neale.>
Re: Hi, my guppy is starving, what do I do, I think he is
going to die? 5/21/13
Thanks for your fast reply Neale
<Welcome.>
Unfortunately I hadn't got your email yet and was desperate to try
something on my fish so I got the permanganate and did it in a bucket.
They still don't look good and obviously didn't like the potassium
permanganate bath.
<I bet.>
Thing is I don't know if I can get Maracyn in Australia. If this doesn't
work, and they are still alive I will try it.
<Maracyn is only sold in the US over the counter… in most other
countries antibiotics are prescription only. A vet can supply
equivalents -- Maracyn 1 is Erythromycin, Maracyn 2 is Minocycline. But
there are often non-antibiotic antibacterial medications sold as
alternatives. Here in the UK, a typical product is eSHa 2000 that works
well against external bacterial infections. Do consult your local
retailer, and ask for good quality anti-Finrot medications if the
problem is with the fins, scales or skin; avoid products based on
tea-tree oil and suchlike as these tend to better used to prevent
infections than to treat acute infections.>
I also called the fish guy at the pet shop back up to tell him what is
going on and ask about my fish and he said it died too... Said it was
looking fine then just died... hmm. Good news is the guppies in my main
tank look ok so far. One a tiny bit fat though, loaches are fine and
back to their hiding selves. My water is relatively hard. I don't know
about salt, the pet shop guy put salt in with the others and they all
died so hmm.
<In and of itself, salt, if used correctly, will NEVER do your Guppies
harm; Guppies positively thrive in low-end brackish conditions!
Something like 5-6 grams per litre of marine salt mix in a freshwater
aquarium creates low-end brackish conditions than Guppies (and Mollies)
adore, often doing better than in freshwater conditions. Loaches, on the
other hand, dislike saline conditions, so should not be exposed to such
conditions.>
Sarah
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Cyano outbreak!!! 5/21/13
Well, I went out and upgraded my circ. pump to a Hydor Koralia 425 gph.
And also added a piece of polyfil to my filter.
My skimmer is skimming and I'm feeding next to nothing (just a small bit
of Mysis that I rinse) and only once a day.
I'm very happy with the circ pump and I've checked for dead spots, and
there are none!! Yay!
However, that dreaded red slime is still popping up on my substrate and
now moving to my rocks. I'm pulling my hair out over this!!!
<Patience Heather... Cyano abatement takes time... sometimes weeks>
My numbers are all still good, as you can see from my last email, and
they haven't changed. (Still struggling to lower nitrates) but at this
point I'm not sure where they're coming from. We test our water that we
change and make sure it's the same as our tank water.
The only thing left is our substrate. We have Ocean Direct Caribbean
Live Sand. We have about 2 in. And we've been advised to add more. How
do I go about adding?
<Simply pour it in... unless it's "too" dusty... in which case you'll
want to freshwater rinse it (swirl around in a clean bucket till it runs
clear... like rice in a rice cooker), then pour it in>
Since the slime is on the substrate, do I remove as much slime as possible
then add sand?
<Fine to just pour on top>
Help please! This Cyano is killing me!!!!
Thanks once again!
<Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Parasite ID 5/21/13
Good evening WWM crew,
<Brielle>
My hippo tang, flame angelfish, and clownfish may be infected <infested>
with a parasite that I'm having trouble identifying. I have only seen it
a few times on them, but they yawn a lot which leads me to believe it is
mostly in their gills. It is about the length of lead in a
mechanical pencil (a little smaller actually). I can just
barely see it, but I can tell that it is long and narrow, not
round. It does not move once attached until a few days later when it
disappears. The fish lose a scale or two (turns whitish/clear
and falls off) every few days. They have had this condition for a few
weeks and the severity is not progressing quickly, so I don't think it
is Ich. Any thoughts?
<Mmm, this may (just) be body mucus... some sort of irritation (many
possibilities)... causing the fishes to exude>
Might parasitic copepods be this small?
<Can be; yes... but are not oblong, worm-like, unless the host is very
large (bill fish, whales)>
I have tried treating with Chloroquine phosphate and Praziquantel to no
effect.
<Again; I'd do what you can to spiff up water quality here; see WWM...
water changes, chemical filtrants, RedOx improvement... Unless you get
samples, look under a microscope, I would NOT randomly medicate>
I'd rather not use copper in my tank. Do you think parinox will help?
Thank you for your advice!
Brielle
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
A question about a fish bite 5/21/13
Dear Guys,
<Julia>
I am coming to you to ask a rather unusual question......My male
Red Devil Bubba B is very tame, I have been hand feeding him
for his entire life now and he let's me pet his nuchal hump, he
enjoys it actually, my question is this, although he's tame and
usually I can clean his tank with him inside, a few weeks ago, he
pulled a sneak attack on me and bit my hand and it drew blood, actually
you could see the teeth mark, I should have known better but I took my
eye off him, he's a fish fcs not a pet dog SIGH. My question
is this, can a fish bite be harmful to humans in any way at all, I
am not talking a shark here of course, I am talking a Red Devil.
Many thanks as always to you guys at WWM. Julia
<Not the bite of a cichlid itself, but there might be bacterial
involvement... the possibility of infection from an open wound in the
tank.
I would wash the area with hot water and soap... Possibly apply an
antibacterial cream... But now that time has gone by... just keep an eye
on the wound site. Bob Fenner>
Re: A question about a fish bite 5/22/13
Bob thanks, it's been a few weeks now and it's finally healing but it
makes me wonder in case he get's a hold of me again sigh,
<Mmm, well; in a sort of ideal world it would be great to have a very
large tank, and a system in place to "drop in" a divider; a physical
barrier to keep this fish on one side while you're working on t'other>
to be honest I do believe I am going to be left with a scar, at the
time it only felt like he nudged me not bit me at all, wasn't
until I actually pulled my hand out and dried it off and then
noticed the blood, I have to be more careful that's for sure, he's
older now and still growing! I remember at the time I did use
peroxide and I used A & D, I do have a cream though and will use
it if it happens again. I do think it's time for a bucket
while I clean his tank, my fingers aren't his food lol.
Thanks very much as always, I had to be sure on this one.
J
<Cheers, BobF>
|
Nudibranch? ID 5/22/13
Hi
<Ash>
Last night I found this little critter on my torch coral, I have noticed it
has been losing a tip every week or so but nothing drastic.
I touch the approach that if it is on a coral it most likely eats it but
wondered if you knew more. It's very light averse and almost
completely flat. It's about one inch long.
Cheers
Ash
<This appears to be a flatworm. Can you describe its
movement/locomotion?
Bob Fenner>
|
 |
Re: Nudibranch? ID
5/22/13
Hi Bob,
<Ash>
Thanks for the quick reply,
<Welcome>
The end to the left of the photo (with the line clear line down the centre
of the animal) appears to be the "head" end and is the direction of travel.
It appears to move very smoothly and quite quickly in the direction
of travel with contraction.
<Ahh, a Platyhelminth>
On close inspection there is a very very thin orange line around the edge of
the work and the coloration is made up of brown spots and lines surrounding
the clear pattering through the centre.
Ash
<And notably; I'll note... a bold gross color and marking appearance to a
Chiton... perhaps camouflage. Not likely damaging anything here. Bob Fenner> |
Snails, disease. Trouble in a small volume
5/22/13
Hello- I hope you can help. We have a 2.5 gallon tank with 3
apple snails (I'm pretty sure they are apple snails) two are
big and one is little (dime size) then other two are about the size of a
tootsie pop. My sons guppy died from a parasite. Do snails get
parasites?
<Yes; they do... and perhaps more importantly, there are several (some
important) human diseases/parasites that gastropod molluscs are vectors,
intermediate hosts for>
Also, for the first time last night I noticed all three snails where
extending some sort of third very large antenna!
<... breathing tube. Put the string "Ampullaria breathing tube" in your
search tool/s>
It was the first time I had seem it and it was very alien like. We thought
it was maybe a sex organ. Or maybe they also have a parasite? I can not
find anything on the web about this and I'm kinda freaked out. I have
since seen the smaller one retract and extend this "third antenna"....
Weird.
Thanks! Ashlee
<Keep your hands out of their tank, wear rubber gloves; wash your hands
w/ hot water and soap after handling... Bob Fenner>
|
Parasite, Disease, or bite? 5/21/13
Hello and thanks again for letting me as another question. I have 2
new clownfish and they were healthy and fine and still act healthy. Today I
noticed the large of the mated pair (female I assume) has a circular mark on
her side. I have searched for ring type parasites but I am not sure if this
is one or if it just got to close for my Coral Beauty. The mark I am
speaking of is on the border of the orange and white on the bottom fish.
Thanks again :)
<I see it/this... and have looked at enlarged, enhanced. This appears to be
a physical trauma mark rather than a parasite. I wouldn't treat this fish,
or system; but keep my eyes open re aggression. Bob Fenner>
|
 |
Re: re: Parasite, Disease, or bite?
5/22/13
Thanks again for all your help
<Glad to be "here". BobF> |
P. imperator... beh., comp. 5/20/13
Hi guys I have a quick question, I have a 5" emperor angel in my
187 gallon tank ( tank dimensions 60"x30"x24"), I've had him
for around 8 months but recently I noticed blotchy white patches
all over his body,
<Mmm, such are usually due to "emotional distress"; though can be
physiological directly>
I went to feed my fish today and as usual the emperor & my puffer
<Mmm, what species, size is this puffer?>
where the first two fish up at the top of the tank but when I fed the fish
he sort of picked at the food and didn't seem his bullish self now he
has got me a bit worried, the blotchy white patches have appeared and
his colour has faded a bit, is this a disease or is the angel still in
the process of changing from juvenile to adult coloration?
<Perhaps a bit of the latter>
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Steve
<I'd be keeping my eye on the puffer, other livestock here. Something is
not to the Emperor's liking. Bob Fenner>
Re: re: 5/21/13
Thanks for the reply Bob
The puffer is a Stars and Stripes puffer he's around 7 inches,
<Mmm, the principal, a principal culprit>
But I've never seen either the puffer or emperor go near each other in
an aggressive manner
<... just the same... could be intimidating the Angel>
not even when food is in the tank in fact the puffer is the most docile
fish in the tank. I know the emperor will get too big for the tank but I
don't think he has to compete for space or food at the moment, I should
point out that he isn't breathing heavily and is swimming around as
normal and he has started to eat again and be his normal bullish
self so I'm pretty happy with that, but I was over in my lfs and
they said I should give him a formaldehyde dip
<?! I would NOT do this. Too toxic and traumatizing>
but I don't want to stress him or do a dip just incase it has a negative
effect on him, but the white patches are still bothering me so I was
just wondering if you think is it best to do the dip or have the
poor fish go through unnecessary stress by catching him and putting him
in a bucket if there is nothing wrong with him, I appreciate your input
Bob.
Thanks
Steve
<As prev. stated; I'd just stay observant at this point. BobF>
Pregnant Diamondback Terrapin
5/21/13
Hello.
<Hiya - Darrel here>
My concern involves my 9 year old female Diamondback Terrapin.
<When I was a kid in Florida and I wanted a turtle, by parents bought me
the basic care book on Turtles - and it had a Diamondback on the cover.
Thinking was THE coolest turtle in the world, I read and learned and got
all set up to have one -- and there was none to be had. All the
pet stores had were Red Eared Sliders, so I never go my Diamondback.
Even to this day I think about them kinda wistfully. Hmmm …
now I'm wondering if that's part of my problem?>
First off, I found her (and a male) 9 years ago off of a Jersey Bay when
I was walking home. The two terrapins were a little larger then quarters
so I imagined they had just hatched. Instead of heading to the bay, the
babies headed into the road and they were the only two out of about 20 I
saw that were still alive. Anyway, about a month ago my female started
wanting out of the tank constantly, attempting to climb out anyway she
could. I had no idea she was pregnant until about a week and a half ago
I found an egg at the bottom of the tank.
<Strange, frenetic activity during the early spring is a typical sign>
Since I found the egg, she would do nothing but lay out on the basking
dock 24/7. After two days of her not eating or swimming, I set up a
separate tank for her with a swimming area and a beach of crushed shells
and sand hoping she would lay the 'rest' of the eggs so she would start
acting normal. Since she's been in this tank she's ate some food, but
she still doesn't seem right. I'm very worried and I just want to know
if she's acting this way because there's more eggs to come, she's sick
or dying?
<She's probably not sick or dying. She probably is gravid (That's
a $5 word meaning 'pregnant with eggs') and she's probably
uncomfortable. Let me give you the general picture about turtles
and eggs:>
<Females often gestate eggs - even when there are no males present.
If the conditions aren't right in any number of ways, her body just
reabsorbs the eggs and that's the end of it. If the conditions are
good enough, the eggs will develop the hard shell on the outside.
Once that happens she can't reabsorb and starts looking for places to
lay them. They become nervous and active and frantically
walking around. Even when presented with a nesting box they'll
search every inch, often digging "test holes" just to see, only to
abandon them in favor of another and another and another. It
always reminds me of my ex-wife shopping for shoes - no male, human,
turtle or otherwise, could ever know what's better about one than
another but if we even dare to ask the question we're liable to get our
heads bitten off.>
<ANYWAY … if no suitable location is found they will often just deposit
them on the floating dock or even in the water - just to get rid of
them. In a very small percent of cases - and I mean one in perhaps
a thousand, the eggs just stay in the oviduct and sort of calcify into
stones. If that happens they seem to lead normal, happy lives, but
their fertile days are over.>
<What you can do for Snickey (assuming her name is Snickey) is to give
her a nesting box. Get a large plastic storage tub with high
sides from a Building Supply store and a bag of peat moss and a bag of
Vermiculite. The Vermiculite now comes only in large (2 cu
ft) bags called Therm-o-Rock. Mix half & half into the tub
until it's about 8 inches deep and then place it in the direct sun.
Place a cover over part, so there is some shade, and then put Snickey in
there and see what she does. You may have to arrange some
sort of additional walls so that she can't climb out, but if you leave
her in there for a couple days and nights, she might decide it's worth
trying.>
<Don't worry about her not eating or basking. She's well
equipped to go a week or two without either of those. On the other
hand, after a few days, if she's just sitting there looking at you like
she has no idea what she did to be put in turtle jail, put her back in
her regular tank for a day or two and then try again>
Any advice would be great. Thank you so much. -Sheena
Re: Hi, my guppy is starving, what do I do, I think he is
going to die? 5/21/13
Hi again Neale
<Sarah,>
I cured that guppy.
<Well done!>
A lot has happened since the last email, 5 fish were looking bad
including the one I cured which showed some signs of something wrong.
Signs: Odd coloration/goldishwhiteness, random holes in fins, fin rot
and splits, extra respiration and some reddened gills, lethargicness
<Ah, yes, does sound bad… in the case of Guppies, do check water
chemistry (should be hard and alkaline -- 10+ degrees dH, pH 7-8); up
the temperature (to around 26-28 C); add a little salt if possible (1
teaspoon per US gallon is a good start). These will perk up Guppies if
they're merely unhappy with ambient conditions. It's also a good idea to
think about opportunistic bacterial infections, some of which are
treatable.>
So surprisingly I gave the fish to the fish 'expert' guy where I got
them from and basically he said they would live. I said they need
treatment asap or they will die. Anyway I followed up a week later and
he told me they ALL died except one.
<Oh.>
Now 3 in my tank were looking odd, 2 with all those symptoms and 1 with
just some. I took them into a quarantine tank and have been battling to
keep the ammonia under check and treat. Needless to say the Tetracycline
treatment didn't work, well at least not on these. Ich treatment didn't
work. I am starting to think it is Columnaris disease and I am going to
get Methylene blue or potassium permanganate tomorrow to do a bath with
them. How do I do this exactly? how much parts water to how much parts
of one or the other? and for how long?
<I would recommend neither medication. Methylene Blue is a mild
anti-fungal more than anything else; it's used in breeding tanks for
example to keep eggs from going mouldy. Problem is that Columnaris isn't
a fungus. As for Potassium Permanganate, it's toxic stuff, nasty to you,
your fish and your filter.>
They are all looking slow and bad, one has been going through periods of
corkscrewing, i tried the pea method but it doesn't seem to be working…
I really don't think these guys have much time left at all. So tomorrow
fingers crossed I can get that stuff I can give it a try. Hopefully that
doesn't mean sacrificing a uni lecture. Its either that or waiting till
after 10pm to treat them...
<I'd review water conditions as outlined above, and then use a broad
spectrum antibiotic, such as the classic Maracyn 1 and 2 combination. As
ever, give your aquarium a decent clean and water change before using
it, and then remove carbon from the filter (if used).>
So really hope they hold out. My loaches have been swimming around a lot
and respirating more than usual.
<These definitely wouldn't like the Potassium Permanganate!>
Had a big disaster in the morning where the tank temperature plummeted
to 13 degrees Celsius because someone fiddled with the power point but
it got back up slowly and they seem to be ok but I'm worried they might
have it. If they do, how can I treat them in the main tank?
<Loaches should perk back from brief exposure to chilling without any
further medication.>
Thanks so much ah I hope they all live
<Hope this helps, Neale.>
Angelfish and Cory cats, fdg.
5/21/13
Hello:
<Judy>
I have one huge angelfish in a 46 gallon and three small corycats. I
bought algae wafers and after I feed the angelfish he dives down for the
wafer also.
<What an oinker!>
I hope the corycats are not going hungry. They are about 1.5 inches
and are really active. Could this angelfish be to much of a bully even
for corycats?
<Could but not likely... Callichthyid/Corydoras catfish are "armored"
and quite spiny. You'd know if any of the cats were missing eyes...>
Thank you
<I would feed other sinking foods (small pellets, likely Spectrum brand)
simultaneously while feeding the angel. Bob Fenner>
Engineer Gobies - how many is too many?
5/21/13
HI Bob (or crew), hope you're well! My 200G 5' FOWLR tank
currently has 2 very large volitan lions, a harlequin tusk, a red Coris
wrasse, and a large (12") engineer goby. I see that a teacher in a
nearby school is looking to place 6 small engineer gobies,
to shut down her small saltwater tank.
These fish are now about 4". I've thought I might take these in and grow
them to size in my 30G (currently empty) aquarium, then transfer to my
larger tank.
<Sounds good>
Would you attempt this?
<Yes I would>
Is this too much of an engineer crowd for a 200G to sustain?
<Mmm, no... the adults are secretive as you know... live communally... I
think it would be many years before they were too much>
The current goby seems to have cleaned out all sand from the existing
rockwork, and seems happy to be a loner, but I've wanted to increase the
tank's headcount anyway...
<The solitary animal will be glad of the company. Bob Fenner>
|
Miniatus Grouper on the menu - Guangzhou, China
5/21/13
Bob, I returned from a China adoption trip a few weeks ago. While at a
restaurant in Guangzhou, I took this picture of the live dinner display
tank. There were several specimens waiting to be served as a tasty dish
that we pay big bucks for in the trade on this side of the globe. My
young daughters speak and read Mandarin (conversational level), but we
couldn't find or price this miniatus grouper on the menu. Anyway,
thought the crew might enjoy this picture. 1', maybe? My 7 year old
daughter gives some size reference.
<Ah yes; Lapu Lapu, Cephalopholis miniata... an ignominious end here.
BobF>
|
 |
Crack in sump Please help
5/19/13
Hi there, I woke today and noticed my external dolphin pump was making a
weird noise. I disconnected the pump, and cleaned it. When I went
to go connect it again my sump cracked!
<Oh! No fun... and quite common when there's much force on through puts
here>
it got 16" crack all the way down the side of it. I pulled out
the water out of my sump below the crack. I bought some GE silicone 1 to
fix it. Well this work, or am I screwed?
<Mmm, I'd very likely replace the tank itself... too likely that the
repair will prove unsuccessful, unsightly. You could save the
cracked/repaired one for a back up... but I'd affix a new piece/panel
over the entire visible side... redrill>
I have a 180 salt tank and sump is 70gallon. I also read
the instruction on the back and says I got 12 hours before I can fill it
back up.
<Give this 24 hours>
My fish wont make it that long.
<Mmm, they should... put all pumps, aerators in the main/display tank>
I pulled all the water out and put it in my r.o. bucket. I did leave the
live rock in there. Please help, Becky
<Perhaps an acrylic sump replacement. Bob Fenner>
Re: Crack in sump Please help, now bad Dolphin pump.
5/20/13
Thank you Bob, I went to bed my pump was quiet I got up and it was way
loud. I cleaned it out and its still loud. Its a dolphin Ampmaster pump.
Not even six months old I paid $400 for it.
<Send it back... it will be replaced>
�� Its a good lessen to not work on your tank at 4 in the morning. Becky
<Yikes! BobF>
P. imperator... beh., comp.
5/20/13
Hi guys I have a quick question, I have a 5" emperor angel in my
187 gallon tank ( tank dimensions 60"x30"x24"), I've had him
for around 8 months but recently I noticed blotchy white patches
all over his body,
<Mmm, such are usually due to "emotional distress"; though can be
physiological directly>
I went to feed my fish today and as usual the emperor & my puffer
<Mmm, what species, size is this puffer?>
where the first two fish up at the top of the tank but when I fed the fish
he sort of picked at the food and didn't seem his bullish self now he
has got me a bit worried, the blotchy white patches have appeared and
his colour has faded a bit, is this a disease or is the angel still in
the process of changing from juvenile to adult coloration?
<Perhaps a bit of the latter>
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Steve
<I'd be keeping my eye on the puffer, other livestock here. Something is
not to the Emperor's liking. Bob Fenner>
|
Borbonius mark, scam product/s
5/20/13
Hi,
<Frank>
I am worried about my borbonius Anthias. He has a mark on his side
and i determined that his spots are not flukes/Ich.
<Mmm, no; this is due to a physical trauma... the other mucus spots
likewise... not patterned like neuromast destruction/HLLE... the fish
either ran into something or something ran into it...>
He had this mark for a month and is eating normal and acting normal.
The fish also has white bumps by the eyes. I tried ruby
reef rally
<Worthless... see WWM re this scam, co.>
to see if it would help, but all it did was lower my ph in which i lost
a big xenia colony, a beautiful gorgonian, a plate coral, and my maxima
clam.
<.... Arghhhh>
I'm worried that this could get infected.
<Not likely...>
My only guess that it could be a small bite mark from my
clownfish (female).
<Oh yes>
I do not see any real aggression from my clown, but she definitely bites
me when my hands in the tank (she knows how to go between my fingers).
Anyway enclosed are some pics that i took when he stood still for me.
Lastly, my parameters are all normal (ph, ammonia, nitrate and nitrite).
My salinity is 1.026 and temp stays consistent around 78. Thank
you.
<No treatment advised; though you may want to move either this fish or
the female clown... Separate them. Bob Fenner>
|
Bitten |
Book of coral propagation; PVC use
5/20/13
Hi guys! My question is for Anthony Calfo, or anyone who can answer well
for him as a follow up question to the book of coral propagation.
<Unfortunately Anthony is no longer w/ WWM... He "flipped out" a few
years back, and has no Net relations whatsoever. I'll respond to your
query instead>
In the text, Anthony writes about using PVC pipe as a frame for building
live rock structures in order to achieve some nice overhangs, etc in an
aquascape. When doing so, if I have a PVC frame I've built, should
I leave the ends of the PVC pipes open or closed?
<Open>
I would like to avoid any stagnant water, so I would assume that closed
would keep water out of the PVC, thus avoiding creating chambers of
water with little water movement, however, it seems to me that if they
were capped off the PVC structure would be full of air and difficult to
submerge. Which is the better way of utilizing PVC to create a frame
from
which to attach live rock without creating dead zones such as those that
would be inside an open PVC pipe in a frame structure?
<As you speculate; with no caps, plugs>
As always, I am humbled by your experience and knowledge and look to you
for suggestions so that I may increase my enjoyment of our beloved
hobby.
Thank you.
Tom
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: commercial holding tank questions
5/18/13
Hi Bob...Thanks for the quick reply as usual. When you say replace
with coral sand what type do you mean?
<Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/marsetupindex1.htm
Scroll down to "Marine Substrates">
I should clarify from my first email that I currently have the CaribSea
Special Grade aragonite sand which is more like small coral chips than
sugar sized sand. Is that what you were referencing?
<Am a fan of the maker and this product, but it's not what I'd use...
you'll read re why>
I was thinking I needed to remove all the calcium based substrates and
rock in the system if I wanted to run copper?
<Mmm, no... will have to replace more frequently, but has to be done w/
or w/o>
My ORP is currently at 250
<Too low... See WWM re>
but no ozone or UV sterilization is currently on as the CP is still
running through the holding system.
<It "only lasts a day" or so... is not good for continuous treatment>
The 150g sized sump was as big as space allowed unfortunately. I
think I am leaning more towards setting up another holding system in a
separate back room to hold new arrival shipments.
<Ahh, worthwhile... IF you can build a customer base that will justify
the expense... takes time... a few years in most markets>
I usually only do 2-3 boxes of fish at a time anyways so I'm looking at
a maximum of 50 or so fish an order. I have never had much success
using copper
<What brand/make?>
which is why I was so interested in in using the CP as it seems much
gentler on the fish and if I understand correctly treats the big three
diseases (crypt, velvet, brook). I was thinking maybe a 4ft
three level pallet rack with 3 x 75 gallon tanks divided into cubicles.
Each level could be it's own separate system if I do some type of closed
loop from left to right with a small circulation pump to push the water
from left to right and the slotted dividers to hold the fish in
sections. Crypt prone fish (tangs, angels, puffers) could go in
one 75g system. Disease resistant fish(wrasses, gobies,
damsels) in a separate 75g system. Or would it be better to just
do one larger system with a small sump and treat all fish as one.
<A tough question... for expedience sake, I'd likely run as one... w/ a
separate system for non-fishes of course>
How many gallons do you recommend for a good QT system for my size
orders(40-50 fish)?
<What you state is about right>
How long to hold new fish in the QT?
<A week or two... depending on the frequency of incoming shipments, how
much holding capacity you have>
I was thinking one to two weeks if no symptoms occur? I would
like to do this store the "right" way and I am willing to invest the
capital to keep the livestock healthy and well conditioned. One
final question...for my 1000g saltwater system what would your
recommendation be for my UV and Ozone?
<... the latter... >
Is 1g/h enough for 1000g?
<Should be... do you have a dryer? You may need one>
300watts for the UV?
<Depends on the quality. Am a huge fan of TMC/Vectron and Emperor
Aquatics here>
Like I said I was thinking of upgrading my Ozone and UV anyways so I
would like your thoughts on size recommendations if possible.
Thanks again for all your help.
<Glad to help. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Exporter of Giant Clams 5/18/13
Hi Bob,
<Norileen>
I just want to introduce our Micro Exporter Company of Tridacna Clams in
beautifully Island of Palau. We ship anywhere specially USA, Germany,
Europe and Asia.
I wrote you because I know that you can introduce our company to some of
the Importer that looking to export of Giant Clams.
Hope to hear from you soon.
Thank you and Regards,
Norileen
<Do you want to send along your contact information for posting/sharing?
Bob Fenner>
Re: Exporter of Giant Clams 5/19/13
You can contact us at +6807786381 or email us at
microexporter@gmail.com
for inquiries.
Thank you
<Good fortune to you on your endeavor. Bob Fenner>
Cyano outbreak!!! Sm. SW 5/18/13
I've been reading all of the info about Cyano and hoping this is just a
phase, but I do have a question(s) maybe you could shed some light on.
<I hope so>
I have a 29 gallon Biocube that I have done a few small
upgrades on in the last week. I removed the Bioballs and
replaced with Fluval ceramic rings.
<Good>
I also bought and installed the stock Oceanic protein skimmer
made for the Biocube, and am still fiddling with it to find the "sweet
spot." And lastly, I added another 7 lbs of live rock to the already 20
lbs I have.
All of this was done to help drop my nitrates. I have also
started doing small, twice weekly water changes as per Bobs
advice.
<Ahh>
In the last few days I have had an out break of red slime on the front
half of my live sand substrate. I notice in the morning, turning on the
light it has almost disappeared, but by evening it has returned stronger
than ever.
I feed a very small pinch of New Life Spectrum pellets in the morning
and a bit of Mysis or some other frozen meaty food in the evening. I try
my best to rinse the food, to get any excess juice off before I feed.
Should I cut back on feeding?
<I definitely would... at least until the BGA issue is solved>
I currently house: 1 Purple Dottyback, 1 Fireshrimp, 1 Banggai Cardinal, 2
Percularis clowns and an algae eating Urchin.
I test rigorously, today in fact, and my numbers are good: Specific
gravity: 1.025 Ammonia and Nitrite: 0 Ph: 8.2-8.4 Nitrates: 10-20
(which I'm still struggling to get below 10, but a far cry from the 80
it was a week or two ago.)
Should I upgrade my stock circulation pump and get something to get my
water moving better? Will that help?
<More circulation is better>
Some info says "yes" other info I read says "no."
Will this die off on its own in time and has only cropped up because of
the new upgrades?
<I do hope the BGA will abate; your actions should help>
Do I need more (or less) sand? I have about 2 inches presently.
<More would definitely be better... 3.5-4" about ideal here>
Sorry for so many questions...again. Seems I'm full of them these days.
Thanks so much for all the helpful advice!!! Without this site, I don't
know what I'd do!
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
|
"Red Leg" in ACFs 5/19/13
Hi Crew,
<Guten tag, Julia!>
this is not a question, but I´ve just read about the ADF with possible
"Red Leg" infection, so I wanted to share my own experiences with this
syndrome (if this is of interest; if not, feel free to ignore
this Email ;)).
<Ah, not our style.>
A few months ago, I wanted to get a few buddies for my two ACFs (an
adult pair, 42 gal tank, filtered, fully cycled, planted. No problems).
I was able to acquire three frogs from a lab (one male, two females),
which I moved into a 30 gal quarantine tank first. Smooth sand bottom,
two terracotta pots, floating plants, an adequately sized canister
filter. I checked the water daily (0 NO2, << 25 ppm NO3, pH 7.2, temp.
about 68 °C, moderately hard water).
<All sounds good. But do read this excellent summary by the RSPCA on the
care of Xenopus spp in labs, here:
http://www.rspca.org.uk/ImageLocator/LocateAsset?asset=document&assetId=1232712646624&mode=prd
Among other things, a somewhat warmer temperature is recommended, around
22 C. I mention temperature because many tropical animals are sensitive
to opportunistic infections when chilled, and even if otherwise tolerant
of cool conditions, warming them up can get their immune systems working
better.>
They settled in just fine and for the first few days, everything was ok;
they were active and always hungry just like my other frogs. But after
six days, the new male suddenly became listless and had two tiny red
spots on his feet as well as slightly swollen hind legs. I had a bad
feeling about that and immediately separated him from the females before
doing a large water change in the 30 gal tank. The next morning, he was
barely moving and had several severe hemorrhages (he spent the night in
a clean tank without any decor, so an injury is out of question). I took
him to a vet, but it was too late and he died in the evening of the same
day.
<Very sad.>
Because of the very fast progression of this infection (36 hours from a
perfectly healthy frog to death), the vet gave me some Baytril to treat
the females which didn´t show any symptoms yet preventatively. Luckily,
this was successful and I could move them to the display tank four weeks
after the end of the treatment.
<Good.>
In this case, I can rule out environmental problems as a cause. The
frogs have lived under stressful conditions in the lab and I know of
some deaths due to Aeromonas hydrophila in the colony before; I think
the inevitable stress from being moved was just too much for this frog.
<Could well have been, particularly if they were handled a bit roughly
when moved. Capturing frogs can damage their skin as they rub against
the gravel, net or your hands.>
I just wanted to show that this is a very dangerous disease which
requires a prompt reaction. The photo shows the frog shortly after its
death.
<Thanks for sharing. Hope your other frogs do better. Cheers, Neale.>
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Crack in sump Please help 5/19/13
Hi there, I woke today and noticed my external dolphin pump was making a
weird noise. I disconnected the pump, and cleaned it. When I went
to go connect it again my sump cracked!
<Oh! No fun... and quite common when there's much force on through puts
here>
it got 16" crack all the way down the side of it. I pulled out
the water out of my sump below the crack. I bought some GE silicone 1 to
fix it. Well this work, or am I screwed?
<Mmm, I'd very likely replace the tank itself... too likely that the
repair will prove unsuccessful, unsightly. You could save the
cracked/repaired one for a back up... but I'd affix a new piece/panel
over the entire visible side... redrill>
I have a 180 salt tank and sump is 70gallon. I also read
the instruction on the back and says I got 12 hours before I can fill it
back up.
<Give this 24 hours>
My fish wont make it that long.
<Mmm, they should... put all pumps, aerators in the main/display tank>
I pulled all the water out and put it in my r.o. bucket. I did leave the
live rock in there. Please help, Becky
<Perhaps an acrylic sump replacement. Bob Fenner>
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Anemone or Polyp ID 5/19/13
Hello and thanks for taking time to read my email. I bought a Zoanthid
and I noticed on the underside an anemone or polyp maybe. I was
wondering if anyone could identify it. It is very small, there are 4 of
them, they are translucent except at the tips which are a neon blue.
<Mmm, yes; please send along (attached) a well-resolved image or two...
of a few hundred Kbytes size. Bob Fenner>
Re Anemone or Polyp ID 5/19/13
(Grr accidentally hit send before I meant to, so disregard first message
please.) Hello and thanks for taking time to read my email. I bought a
Zoanthid and I noticed on the underside an anemone or polyp maybe. I was
wondering if anyone could identify it. It is very small, there are 4 of
them, they are translucent except at the tips which are a neon blue.
<Ah yes; this appears to be a Corallimorpharian of the genus
Pseudocorynactis. Do see WWM re. Bob Fenner>
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Marine Aquarium Articles and FAQs Master
Index
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- Set-Up 1:
Types of Systems:, Gear/Components:, Set-Up, Tanks,
Stands, Covers:, Water, Seawater, Substrates, DSBs,
Electricity, Heating/Chilling, Aquascaping, Biotopes,
Travelogues.
- Set-Up 2: Filtration
of All Sorts, Skimmers, Sumps, Refugiums, Plumbing,
Circulation, Pumps, Powerheads, Aeration &
Light/Lighting:.
- About Livestock: Regional
Accounts:, Collection, Selection:, Stocking:, Disease
Prevention: Dips/Baths, Acclimation, Quarantine, Behavior:,
Territoriality:, Reproduction:
- Non-Vertebrate Sea Life Identification, &
Microbes, Algae, Plants, Live Rock & Sand,
Sponges: Hitchhikers, IDs, Marine
Microbes, Plankton, Live Rock & Sand, Marine Algae, Marine
Plants, Sponges, phylum Porifera,
- Cnidarians I. Corals to Hobbyists,
Stinging-Celled Animals 1: Cnidarians
Overall; Hydrozoans: Jellies, Hydroids, Anthozoans;
Octocorals: Organ Pipe, Blue Coral, Star Polyps, Sea
Fans, Sea Pens and Soft Corals
- Cnidarians II. Corals to Hobbyists,
Stinging-Celled Animals 2: Anthozoans; Hexacorals:
Mushrooms, Zoanthids, Anemones, Stony Corals, Tube Anemones,
Black Corals
- Higher Invertebrate
Life: Bryozoans, Worms of all kinds,
Mollusks (Snails, Nudibranchs, Octopodes), Crustaceans (Crabs,
Shrimp, Lobsters...), Echinoderms (Urchins, Sea Cucumbers,
Seastars, Brittlestars...), Sea Squirts,
- Fishes, Index 1: Sharks, Rays,
Skates; Marine Eels; Marine Catfishes; Squirrelfishes,
Soldierfishes, Lionfishes, Stonefishes, Gurnards, Sculpins;
Anglerfishes, Seahorses & Pipefishes, Blennioid &
Gobioid Fishes, Mandarins, Clingfishes, Wrasses and
Parrotfishes,
- Fishes, Index 2:
Butterflyfishes, Cardinalfishes, Grammas, Grunts,
Sweetlips, Snappers, Goatfishes, Jawfishes, Big-Eyes, Basses,
Anthias, Dottybacks, Roundheads, Soapfishes, Damselfishes,
Clownfishes, Monos, Hawkfishes, Croakers, Emperors, Threadfins,
Sandperches, Miscellaneous Percoids,
- Fishes Plus, Index 3: Marine
Angelfishes, Tangs/Surgeons/Doctorfishes, Scats, Batfishes,
Rabbitfishes; Triggers, Files, Puffers, Flounders, Halibuts,
Soles, Really Old Fishes, Marine Reptiles, Marine
Mammals,
- Maintenance/Operation:
General Maintenance, Vacations, Moving,
Water Quality: Tests/Testing, Aquarium Repairs,
Biominerals, Supplementation, Marine Scavengers, Algae ID &
Control, Foods/Feeding/Nutrition,
- Diseases: Identification, Avoidance, Causes,
Organisms, Treatments & Pests:
Acclimation, Quarantine, Dips/Baths; Disease: Prevention,
Identification, Treatment, Pests/Control, Aquariums and Human
Health, Chemicals of Use/Dis- and Mis-use, Pest
Flatworm/Anemones/Worms... & Their Control,
- Marine Topics: Media Reviews:,
Books:, References, Sources, Writing, Diving, Travel Adventure,
Photography, Videography, Sources of Mortality on the
Worlds Reefs, Schooling, Public Aquariums,
Site
Navigation-The navigation through the site is designed to allow you to
go through the pages following the blue links to get to the
information you seek.
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