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Genus Discosoma (Actinodiscus): Smooth faces (relative to Rhodactis), w/ radiating pseudotentacles radiating out from central mouth areas. S. Leyte 2013


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General FAQs
Updated 8/31/2015
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Daily Q&A replies/input from the WWM crew: Darrel Barton,
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by Robert (Bob) Fenner
PLEASE: Write reviews of my works on Amazon! I need your input. BobF

re: Community tank       8/31/15
Thanks. I re tested the tank this morn. The only difference was nitrate was 20.
<Ahh; that's more like it>
I probably messed up the first test. Its the first time I used anything other than strips.
<See WWM re... strips are neither accurate nor precise>
I did a lot if digging last night and found what probably happened to the clown loach. Wasting disease?
<No.... reading>
It's the only thing that fits. The remaining 2 clown loaches seem skinny too.. One is in bad shape, hanging at the tip of tank with mouth open. He's not gasping, just skimming just under the surface. The other came out to eat the shrimp I ran out to buy at 1 am..
I'm looking at the only picture of the rainbows and on one is a little white spot with what looks like slime trailing off it. I asked my friend about when he set everyone up in the tank. The rainbows were bought 2 days before he brought the tank over. (Tank was against his lease agreement and landlord found out..) He's had all the other fish about a month, he cycled
the tank empty for 3 weeks before adding any fish.(I think 4 weeks with a feeder fish would have been better) I'm thinking the rainbows were sick before he bought them. Should I call the store and let them know about possible illness?
Bre
<You should read. BobF>
re: Community tank       8/31/15

Hullo again, I'm starting to feel like a pest! ;) update on the sick clown loach. I went to storage and dug out my 20 gal and heater used the water from the main tank, I used one of the filter deals from main tank in the "new" system.
<Good>
I'm trying to recreate the main tank as much as possible. I don't have time to cycle this "sick" tank. I picked up some parasite/de wormer.. Quite hard to find. I had to drive over an hour to get to the only closest place that has both Levamisole hydrochloride AND Metronidazole. I have now placed both clown loaches in the "sick" tank and have medicated. I did remove the carbon.. Both loaches have eaten, but the poor guy with the open mouth is struggling. His mouth is open and never closes.
<Not good>
I have searched, read through link after link here, and talked to the guy at the specialty fish store. He didn't have a clue. As I netted him(the fish) to move him into the "sick tank" I checked carefully to see if something was lodged in his jaw, I just can't tell. These guys are not even 2 inches long. He did manage to eat a tiny bit of cucumber. I'm glad I decided to treat both as the "healthy" guy is skinner that I originally thought. He's eating well, but his poop is not looking right. Its thin, whitish and
clear. Hopefully this treatment will work. My hubby will be a little ticked at the money spent today on this fish if they both die. Any other tips, links, info would be extremely welcome. Thank you for your time and expertise!
Bre
<The treatment, hope and time going by. BobF>
re: Community tank       8/31/15

Second update.. Regarding the Madagascan rainbows. My friend took them back to the store he bought them from. Turns out the whole lot of freshwater tropicals are under quarantine and no longer for sale.
<Mmmm?>
The store refunded the money, but the sales guy refused to say what they were treating for. My friend said it looked like it could possibly be ICH but didn't have much chance to get a good look. I thought places like Petco or PetSmart had a setup that kept all the tanks clean from wide spread disease?
<No; assuredly not. I was not a, but the aquatics buyer for PetCo 91-94... talked them into (finally) putting up their own livestock distribution (in DC100, San Diego), but they (foolishly) gave this up.... the mass-merchandisers have HUGE health issues with their aquatics departments.>
I'm not sure about getting fish there in the future. Would it be better to order online and do next day air?
<Depends on from where. LiveAquaria (now; yes; owned by PetCo) is a consistent source for quality livestock>
And how likely am I to receive a sick fish?
<Some chance always>
Like I said in previous emails, I'm incredibly new to the warm water fishes. I am darn near an expert in Koi and Goldfish! I've had my own 55 gal with warm water fish for about a month, only days with the bigger 75 gal. Its been quite a challenge to learn about all these fish is such a short amount of time.
<Yes; tis so. I've worked in the field; been a content provider as well... for more than half a century; still learning>
Last question, if I get a larger tank, say a 150 gal could I put the Bala sharks, clown loaches and angels together?
<Mmm; yes; possible>
That's a total of 8 fish, all if which are currently under 4 inches.. I would like to have maybe 2 more of each. (Down the road a bit)
Thanks again;
Bre
<Thank goodness for your clear, curious, discerning mind. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

re: Some help...       8/31/15
Oka,what did you think of my tanks the saltwater aquarium...
<Looked good to me, but as I say, I'm no expert on the tropical SW side of the hobby! Neale.>

re: Some help... Now SW, hole-dwelling.... Mantis        8/31/15
Mr. Neale,
I found something in my tank last night, it was maybe about 1cm if not a little bigger and grayish and it was making a small ting hole in the sand up against the glass and what I seen I need to know that my eyes wasn't playing tricks on me so went and got a magnifying glass and low and behold it was a baby mantis shrimp, I knew or know what these animals are and
didn't want t in my 65gallon tank so I got a small plastic cup and got down in the tank and scooped up the sand and him. Well I think now that I didn't get him now cause I put the sand and sea shell he was digging under in a 15oz Betta fish bowl and haven't seen him since last night...
I don't know if there are more or these little guys or just him and if I didn't get him, how can I catch him and maybe others safely with out hurting my bristle worms since these little guys are so small and plus I wanna keep the mantis shrimp but in a different tank and I forgot to say this he cleaned him self right in front of me and he was with out no doubts a not a
smasher but the other one (spearer)!!! Need to catch this guys please any help??!!!
Sincerely Terry
<Without a photo can't say for sure. Would ask you to send in a photo. But would suggest you look up the following crustaceans:
Pistol Shrimps (shrimp-like, but with one claw bigger than the other, and excellent burrowers)
Mantis Shrimps (typically flattened a bit top to bottom along the abdomen, head has large mobile eyes, and of course the claws are distinctive)
Amphipod (rather bean-shaped shrimps)
Isopod (these look like Woodlice)
At their small sizes they can all be easily confused with each other, especially Pistol and Mantis shrimps. What you don't want to do is upturn your tank for Amphipods or Isopods. Pistol Shrimps may or may not be a hazard depending on the livestock (they stun very small prey with amazingly powerful sound waves produced by their claws). Mantis Shrimps are, as you suspect, enormous fun and extremely hardy, definitely my favourite marine aquarium invertebrate, and if I can keep them, anyone can keep them! I'm going to direct you to a couple of web pages first:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/arthropoda/stomatopods/mantisshrimp.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mantiscompfaqs.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/pistolshrimps.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/crustidfaqs.htm
Both have plenty of links to articles that you'll find relevant. As Bob is wont to say, "Read, don't write", which in this context means that you'll get quicker information if you use the search facility on WWM than wait for me or someone else to respond. Hope this helps, Neale.>
re: Some help...       8/31/15

Thank you but I know what I looked at and it was a baby mantis shrimp no doubts about it...I did all the looking up last night and haven't slept at all, there just isn't any info on how to catch a tiny baby mantis shrimp nothing...
<<Wrong... is posted. RMF>>
<No easy way, unfortunately. Simplest is to remove the rock in which it is hiding, if you can. But place a net underneath as you lift the rock in case it tries to escape downwards. I would have you search WWM; there is a Google search box on the site... type in something along the lines of "removing mantis shrimp" (without the speech marks) and see what comes up!>
Sighin,if there is one then I know there is more and I just don't want to wait until they do cause issues, I will be ordering my snowflake Eel today and either Monday or Tuesday ill be getting it.
<Cheers, Neale.>

Composite aquarium stand issue       8/31/15
Hello,
<Deb>
I have a 75 gallon saltwater tank on a 20 year old composite (wood board) stand.
<Mmm; hope that thing is sealed>

We have had a problem lately with the electricity going out in the area, and that caused the tank to overflow. It has happened a couple of times. I noticed that the trim at the bottom of the stand is starting to pull away from the actual stand. Does the trim on a stand have any structural benefit ordinarily?
<It does indeed. We had a similar question just yesterday... NEED to have all the parts it's built with, and these securely fastened/glued/screwed/stapled together. I might well be taking this tank down, inspecting, beefing up this stand.
Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/aqstdcomm.htm
Thank you for your time.
Deb Walker
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Koi and Water Lilies       8/31/15
Greetings Crew,
<Brandon>
I’m revamping my pond and wondering aside from creating a separate growbed, what are the best ways to prevent my koi from bothering my lilies.
<A plastic (Naltex is a fave brand) corral to keep them entirely away>
I’m using potted lilies and covering them with rocks, which works to an extent. I don't like the idea of floating rings for ascetic reasons.
<The Naltex poly is a neutral black>
Also what are the best planter boxes for larger lilies or multiply lilies. What are your ideas.
Thanks
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: Koi and Water Lilies; now floating plants for ponds        8/31/15

Thank you Bob. What would be your suggestion on adding floating plants like Azolla, Salvinia or duckweed or should I stick to just lilies?
Thanks again Brandon
<Our business (service) stocked these and other "grasses" as posted on WWM's pond section... again, within floating barriers if there were plant-eating fishes, turtles present. BobF>
Re: Koi and Water Lilies
Thanks for the fast reply. My concern with the smaller floating plants/ferns, it seems I'm always scooping out or getting covered in duckweed and etc. when working in pond. I like the look, just wasn't sure about the maintenance. Thanks
<Most all species of what is sold/considered duckweed are delicious to fishes. Not to worry. B>

Fish Pond Fountain. Metal use in biological features        8/31/15
Hello,
<"Woman of the sea">
My name is Andrea. I have a question regarding my Koi/Goldfish pond. We have a 500 gallon pond with a water-bog filtration system and waterfall. I would like to line the waterfall with copper sheeting but have been unable to see if it will harm my fish.
<No need to experiment; unless the copper is very carefully sealed, it will kill all life>

Every waterfall I have seen uses stainless steel, personally I find in gaudy looking. However, I do not wish to compromise the safety of my plants or fish and if the copper is a no-go can you suggest any other metal?
<All will require similar careful coating... there are clear treatments...
we had one done years back made of an olde mash tun at/for a brewery here in San Diego; though this was made into a abiological fountain>
Preferably one that does not stick out like a sore thumb.
Thank You
Andrea
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: Koi and Water Lilies       8/31/15

I can't thank you enough.
<Ah; welcome>

re: Horrible Protein Skimmer; sel.        8/31/15
I appreciate your response and I have been pouring over your website. I am writing back because I can't seem to find a clear answer to my question and I am being asked by the Deltec representative for my choice of protein skimmer (and credit card number).
<Deltec units are nice, just pricey>
I am concerned over the quality of the unit, the reef octopus produces huge water laden bubbles and overflows more often than not. I want to know if there is a hob protein skimmer that specifically addresses the issue of potential overflow?
<... none that I'm aware; however; they span a range of utility and adjustability...>
I think the Deltec mce600 is designed for any overflow to fall, flow, back in to the tank, but the model I am being offered is the Deltec mce400, information, in English, about it is scant at best. Do you know anything about this model, whether it has the overflow protection?
<It does not as far as I'm aware... again, w/o a sump.... for hang on/s I've already given you my (AquaC) rec.s>
It seems sketchy that there seems to be a lack of knowledge or even vendors of these Deltec products, and it is $400. I also am including api test results as suggested. My 65 gallon is only 6 months old so I just started testing for carbonate hardness 8 dKH, 500 ppm calcium,
<Too high by a hundred ppm. Please, READ on WWM before writing us>
I don't yet dose or use any chemicals, though I may have to find some help with testing. My calcium appears high for not having added anything? This can be so confusing.
<Then keep reading, questioning and NOT buying.
BobF>

Tank Crack       8/31/15
I just bought a used tank and found a crack in it. The tank is over 200 gallons and I was wondering what problems this would cause.
<Could fail catastrophically. Do NOT fill this tank>

The tank is 30" high and this crack is about a foot from the top of the tank. I went through all of the crack FAQ's and I still wasn't sure.
Any help would be much appreciated. Picture attached.
Thank you.
Jim
<I'd be trying the strips of glass (1/4" will do, three, four inches wide) along both sides of the chipped corner here... siliconed, meeting/overlapping outside. Bob Fenner>

re: Tank Crack       8/31/15
Oh, one more question. Do I have to remove the molding around the top and bottom or can I place the strips of glass top to bottom between the molding?
<Were it me/mine, I'd leave the molding in place, do the latter. BobF>
Thank you again
re: Tank Crack       8/31/15

Wow, quick response. Thank you so much. I will definitely do that.
<Ah, good. BobF>

Ich, to treat or not to treat?       8/31/15
Hello WWM Crew,
Thanks for all the valuable info on this site and helping us keep our tanks healthy. Here is my situation. I have a 90g reef tank that has been up and running for 8 years with no problems, thanks to WWM. I have a Yellow Tang that has been in there for 2 years and no problems with him. He acclimated well, no Ich or black spot and is getting big and fat. I recently bought some Blue Reef Chromis(cyanea)and had them in QT until I read it was better to FW dip and place them in the main display, so I did.
Well my Royal Gramma killed them and I didn't have enough time to get them out. About a week later my Tang developed some white spots, ragged fins, scratching and visiting the cleaner shrimp but was still eating like a pig so I thought it is Ich. There were no changes in my water parameters stable as usual. I removed him and gave him a 14 minute FW dip and place him in a tank with new saltwater that has being running and is cycled. About 2 days after the dip he started eating and acting normal. The white spots that I thought were Ich haven't returned as of yet. The more I read about Ich I think it might not have been Ich because the spots were more like white head pimples ready to be popped. I bought some Cupramine, a copper test kit and some Methylene Blue but I'm not sure what the best thing to do is.
<Good... to be not sure>

After reading about Tangs and copper I am wondering if it would be better to just FW dip him again and place him in the main display or treat him with copper if he might not need it. The only symptom he exhibits now is he swims across the tank and does the shaky dance, but this might be because he is in a 20g long(too small). In your expert opinion what would you do?
<Not treat... the system will be worse for wear... read re the use of CP (Chloroquine), and treat via food>

Also none of my other fish were inflicted with this they are all doing well. Thanks in advance for your valuable expertise and time. Brian
<Do please keep me/us informed. Bob Fenner>
RE: Ich, to treat or not to treat?       8/31/15

Hi Mr. Fenner,
Thanks for the info. I will look for CP tomorrow.
<Good>
I also purchased NLS Ick Shield which is supposed to contain CP but I was reading from a post in February 2015 that you didn't have any experience with it, have you any info on this product since then?
<I have not; but do know (and have high confidence) that this product is real. Pablo Tepoot (owner, manager) and I are old friends>
Thanks
Brian
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: Ich, to treat or not to treat?       8/31/15

Hi Bob,
I've been reading more about the NLS Ick Shield pellets and Ian Tepoot says that it contains ingredients from the Chloroquine group. My tang has been eating these pellets. There is also NLS Ick Shield powder which contains the same. Reading about the powder if I can't find CP I think the NLS powder would be the next best thing. I will keep you informed as I am
going out to find CP. Thanks so much for your interest in my dilemma.
Brian
<Welcome. BobF>

Kole tang       8/31/15
<Your pix are too small, too far away to make out much of anything. Crop them and send better resolved images>
Please help me find out what is wrong with my Kole tang! My local fish enthusiasts can not figure it out as well. I have had him for around 3 months about 1 month ago he started to develop these white spots on his gills. They have not moved, he is still eating, and does not act sick. Thoughts at first thought he might have flukes
<Might be>
but his eyes are not cloudy and he doesn't seem to itch. They have not moved or spread and nothing is in his eyes.
<Might not>
All my levels are in the normal range.
<...>
I have been feeding more often just to keep his immune system up which also means I have been doing 20% water changes 1-2 times a week to keep nitrates down. 55 gal tank11 months old.1 maroon clown1 pajama cardinal1 wrasse Reef tank (lots of soft and hard corals)
Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S®4, an AT&T 4G LTE Smartphone
<Try again. Bob Fenner>

cropped

New To Marine keeping       8/31/15
Hi we have just bought a 47 gallon tank ,
<Ahh!>
it's been set up for 3 weeks, but we are having loads of micro bubbles coming from the protein Skimmer, in the tank, what can we do to help reduce these bubbles ,
<Mmm; really; best to be "just patient". They'll soon be gone on their own. This "bubble ness" is part of some "new" set up occurrences. You could just turn the skimmer off for right now... turn it back on once the system is cycling (nitrate accumulation observed)>
and with the wave maker blowing the other direction it's cycling the bubble around. Please help
Many thanks
Nikki
<Again, best to just wait. There are surfactants, products that will coalesce bubbles, but this will only delay your system becoming "cycled"...
Try not to worry re. Bob Fenner>
Re: New To Marine keeping       8/31/15

Oh thanks bob will keep in contact join up site
Nikki
<? Okay! BobF>

Community tank; hlth. concern     8/30/15
2 days ago I inherited a friends 75 gal with 2 Bala sharks (under 5 inches), 3 clown loaches( under 2 inches), 2 red fin rainbow sharks ( under 2 inches), 5 long fin zebra danios (about an inch each), and 2 Madagascan rainbow fish.
<Rainbows are social, shoaling species>
He brought the water they have been in for about a month, with the same substrate and filters. So its not quite a new tank. It was not cleaned, just taken apart, brought over and put back together. The water test shows ammonia 0, nitrate and nitrite 0,
<Zero nitrate? Unusual>
pH 7.1, hardness 100(closest), alkalinity 130. Water temp at 75°F. Waterfall filtration system handles up to 100 gal and is set at a med flow rate. Has 2 aeration stones.
This morning a clown loach, and both Madagascan rainbow fish died. The loach was super skinny, like it was not eating. The rainbow fish seemed fine last night. Early the rainbows seemed listless and not swimming.
Within 30 min of noticing they were both dead. Watching the other fish there seems to be no issues, no flashing, bloated bellies, spots of any color, no extra slime, poops all look normal.
<Something awry environmentally here... perhaps transient ammonia>
The fish in this tank are fed flake, crisps and shrimp pellets with occasional cucumber and zucchini.
I am stumped as to what happened. Any ideas?
<Can only guess; direct you to read HERE: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwdistrbshtart.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

re: Some help... (Bob, Snowflake Eel + Clingfish = ???)     8/29/15
I will try 2 sir, I just added dry live rock 2 my tank, once it all settles and I can find him ill send pic's of my tank and him...
<I'm not an expert marine aquarist. Most of the marine experience I have is with coldwater systems and I haven't kept a reef tank since the early 90s... so I'm going to direct you to the marine side of WWM. Perhaps these article will get you started nicely:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_5/volume_5_3/first_steps.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsetupii.htm
Henceforth, if you need help with marine fishkeeping, I'll direct you to Bob Fenner, James Gasta or one of the other "saltwater" crew.>
He looks not like a goby at all but more like a freshwater sucker fish...but he is full saltwater and about 3inchs long, very cool
animal...only worry now is when I order my snowflake Eel that he don't eat him...I will be setting up a nano tank for seahorse at some point and will move him if he makes it with the Eel,
<Not with the eel. The Clingfish will become dinner.>
he was in bad living conditions and I can't leave a animal like that and when they said he was free I took him... U do have my permission 2 post all talks and emails and pic's... I will be ordering from marcorocks 2 get the sand mix 2 build a skull out of it so it will sit in my tank and will be the show piece.
Im stoked about it...but I would love 2 show u pic's and let u post it.
What u will see now is just my basic idea and once I get everything in order I will be switching to a 125 gallon Coralife super skimmer and a 40gallon sump completely hindin...
<Indeed. Sounds good.>
I have about 35pound of rock about 9 pounds of seed live rock and the rest dry live rock...1 maroon clwon fish and 1 Chromis jumbo green and 1 clingfish,1 red legged hermit crab,2 blue legged hermit crads,2 turbo snails,3 bumble bee snails,9 lil brittle stars and about 50 bristle worms with a bunch of other living animals...
<Do read carefully; keeping marine fishes is not much different to freshwater fishes and really not that difficult, but keeping marine invertebrates is much harder than anything in the freshwater side of the hobby.>
I love it, and yes Mr. Neale I do know that a lot of these animals crabs are 50/50 in danger with my Eel and I will do my best 2 keep it feed so it will not eat anything...
<Not a wise approach. Snowflake Eels are specialists on shrimps and crabs to be sure, but their eyesight is lousy, and they hunt by smell. So should they bump into something at night that doesn't move quickly, and if for some reason they're hungry, they'll treat that item as food. Good companions for active midwater fish such as Damsels, but not good companions for very small goby-like creatures that sit still rather than than keep moving in my opinion. Cheers, Neale.>
re: Some help... (Bob, can you ID a Clingfish?)<<I'll try. B>>     8/29/15

First 4 are my saltwater aquarium octagon tank...
First 1 on the rock is the cling fish...
<Yep, that's a Clingfish.>
This last one 55 gallon long tank is wife's freshwater tank with 2 African clawed frogs all live plants,
<Cool animals and a nice tank for them!>
I bought this 4 her as a b-day gift one frog is mine the albino frog is here's ...
Tell me what u think Mr. Neale.
<I think you've got a challenge there with the Clingfish. I'm not sure what species it is. Perhaps a Tomicodon species? I'm concerned that it might be a subtropical or temperate species... large size, dull colours are suggestive of this (tropical species in a given family of fish tend to be smaller and/or more brightly coloured). I'd definitely be ensuring extremely high oxygenation just in case it isn't a tropical species, because low oxygen level is what kills subtropical and temperate species
most quickly when kept indoors or too warm. DO TRY and get the Latin name (or even a better common name) from the retailer... it should be on his "list" of livestock he got from the wholesaler, sort of like a receipt.
Have you seen it feed yet? That'd be my next aim. A bamboo/satay skewer is a good length and can hold a small piece of white fish fillet or prawn.
Wave enticingly, perhaps at dusk/dawn with the tank lights out, and see if it feeds. Be sure to read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_6/volume_6_1/thiaminase.htm
Thiaminase destroys vitamin B1 and is almost certainly a major reason for failure with oddball predatory fish. Good luck, Neale.>

Subject: re: Some help... (Bob, can you ID a Clingfish?)     8/29/15
<IS A Gobiesocid, but... of the 161 species on Fishbase:
http://www.fishbase.org/identification/specieslist.php?famcode=434&areacode=
and asking Google re aquarium species, ones for sale.... I can't quite make out. BobF>
re: Some help... (Bob, can you ID a Clingfish?)     8/29/15

Mr. neale,he had that clingfish 4 a year, he just said it was a clingfish and it eats algae...
<Nope, they don't; this family are all micro carnivores of some sort or another.>
I don't like these pet store that don't know anything they are sale 'in and it bothers me
<It bothers me too. Mostly pet shops expect you to do your research first.
Not necessarily a bad idea. But for some folks without the right books or access to the Internet, it's unhelpful if they can't trust their local retailer.>
and yea I do know all about the Eels and understanding of them...
I needed a cleaning crew, ill watch and pay attention 2 c what happens. From what I read which there isn't a lot about the clingfish but they was algae eaters and he is in the saltwater tank as he was reported 2 be for that year at the pet store...I don't understand when u said about him eatin raw fish with a tong, shoulda I offer him a piece then???
<This fish looked pretty big. What, 8 cm/3 inches maybe? Hard to tell in a photo. But yes, try some chopped up fish fillet or shrimp, or some frozen brine shrimps. Don't pollute the tank of course, Try a bit of something, and if it isn't eaten, remove. But you want to see him feed some time in the next couple days.>
And my tank stays at 79 degrees and all ph and all levels are good...my set up is better that what that lil guys was in at the pet store...and dude has know idea on its name...sighin like people...they shouldn't be allowed 2 have pet store. If they don't know what the hell they are doin...sorry for that but its true,I wanna open up a saltwater/freshwater shop but money is
so tight and I know I woulda make a killin and treatin the animals right and givin the people the right info and help that is 100% needed.
<Does your city/state have a fish/aquarium club? Many do; you want to join one, and find out ways you can get more practical experience and also outreach... setting up tanks in schools, old folks' homes, that sort of thing. Very rewarding and a good way to build up your skill set.>
Ooo I do have 1 book I wrote that needs sent out and 2 on the way,I am a writer and also have poems and other writings,I went 2 college for art and later 4 personal trainer and I tattoo right now...
But that's for another day and thank u so much 2 say I am already apart of what u do and the site,it means a lot to me sir thank u so much...
<Welcome.>
How did u like my saltwater tank and I 4got 2 put that one rock back...sorry abouth that but I sent u more pics of the tank right... I repsect u and what u do!!!
<Looked very nice to me! Do find one of the friendly fish forums out there... you should find sharing photos rewarding. I'm not marine expert so not really the person to chat to about this topic.>
If anytime u woulda like to talk on the phone or write ill give u my number and address
Terry
<Good luck with your new projects! Cheers, Neale.>


re: Some help...     8/29/15
Sorry 4got 2 puth that one rock back...here are the right pic'z Mr. Neale
<As/when you write to the marine guys here... word of warning... they're more picky about written English than me! Just a heads up! Cheers, Neale.>
re: Some help...     8/29/15

What do u mean sir,writting in english,they don't write in english...I don't understand???
<I mean: don't use text-speak, do use a spell checker! Cheers, Neale.>
re: Some help...     8/29/15

Ooo I just tex like that I don't need spell check ill use right english 4 u guys,I can use all and speak 2 all walks of life. But thank u for the heads up...
<Glad to help. We can sometimes get pretty snotty around here when folks don't write the Queen's English (as we'd say here in England)...
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/QueryCorrsRefPg.htm
But no disrespect is meant... it's simply that plain English is easier for search engines to read, and so make our website easier to use. Cheers, Neale.>


Modifying a commercial aquarium stand.     8/29/15
Hi guys,
<Tim>
This is my go to site for tank info. I have a laundry list of questions, here. Hope it’s not too much. Here goes.
I have a 37 Column kit from Marineland/Perfecto. The stand is called the “Newport”. It’s this one http://postimg.org/gallery/15f8vkkk2/0a627091/.
<Okay; see it>
I am thinking of modifying it for additional support, and I’m not sure how to proceed.
<Let's see>
The bottom is very thin plywood, probably 1/8”. I was thinking of reinforcing it on the inside with 1/2” plywood on the bottom. I would simply glue this to the existing bottom.
<Could do; and I'd put some flat head short screws in every six inches or so. Oh. I should mention that the tank (via the frame) IS really only (meant to be) supported on the four outside edges... the ply in the middle helps even out the weight against these four edges>
The walls are 1/2” plywood. I would reinforce those with another sheet of the same for each wall, cutting a hole for the door only.
<And the walls likewise are part of strengthening the other wood pieces inside>
I don’t need anywhere for wires to exit the back. My filters are internal. I would take the reinforcing plywood all the way to the new plywood bottom. The walls would hold the floor in place. The walls would be glued, and screwed to the current walls, with 3/4” screws. I would use steel L brackets to secure the new reinforcing plywood walls to each other in the corners.
<Good>
The top two supports are 3/4” plywood. I would place a piece in the middle supported by the current lip. which will be wider with the addition of the internal wall pieces. This will continue the support all the way across the top.
<Sounds good>
Alternatively:
I am concerned about messing with how the stand meets the ground. Should I eliminate the floor. and bring the inside wall pieces up a 1/4”, and let the current “feet” support the weight?
<I'd leave the floor in place. All pieces work together to hold the stand rigid in three dimensions. Necessary>
Will this still increase the ability of my stand to carry the weight to the floor? Will the screws rip out of the old walls, due to the new walls not going to the bottom?
<Again; If anything, I'd just add the mentioned sheets of ply>
Or is my initial plan the wisest?
<Yes>
Third option:
Looking at the photos, should i just leave well enough alone? This is a commercial stand. Maybe it will be fine? Should you even modify a commercial stand?
<Mmm; well; it will function... but does look flimsy to me. In shaky ground California, I'd be beefing it up>
Thanks for everything.
Tim
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Horrible Protein Skimmer; sel., op. f's      8/29/15
I am writing today with questions regarding a reef octopus (1000) protein skimmer, it is a hang on back, and currently I hate it. Contrary to many online reviews, excluding yours, it seemed to be an appropriate option for my 65 gallon mixed reef. I have given it the time that the customer service support agent recommended when I contacted them about the issues I am and continue to encounter. It has been running for almost six months now. The tank has 0 ammonia and nitrite but nitrate is 10-20ppm. I have two clownfish, who are starving because I don't want to add food and nitrates, some xenia, mushrooms, and my live rock.
<Mmm; do feed the Clowns, in fact all life here.... better by far... >
This is bothersome and not ideal for adding livestock. The problem is that the skimmer consistently produces, well, water? No smell or nastiness or even foam to speak of, and so far has overflowed the collection cup in the middle of the night with no obvious reason multiple times. So, is there a hob protein skimmer that addresses the overflow vulnerability, at this point I would be happy if it just ran straight back into the tank. Also budget, I seem to have failed with the reef octopus, unless there is some unforeseen solution you might suggest?
<Yes; there are other makes, models... these are addressed on WWM>
I could probably spend $200 more on a different skimmer at this sad point, but not the $2000 for the deltec that seems to be the only one that specifically addresses the overflow concern. Does the aqua c have a design that might cause an overflow to be funneled back into the tank, or another with a more modest cost?
<Their Remora line, middle or largest size would work; or the Urchins>
And I guess it wouldn't hurt if the equipment actually produced foam, the reef octopus is either incapable or I am vastly confused.
<Mmm; well; the issue might be "your water/system".... sometimes some don't produce much skimmate>
Finally while I am expressing my discontent, I can't put my hand in the tank without an immediate overflow by this stupid machine.
<Mmm; do you have test kits for alkalinity and Calcium, Magnesium? Am curious what your general water quality is here>
I use ro/di water, 0 tds with a meter, I don't add any chemicals and I do thoroughly rinse my hands before inserting them, but I can't have this overflow every time I try to smother that vermetid snail, chuckle. He constantly irritates with his mucous web but as long as he doesn't reproduce. Thank you in advance. Your time is so appreciated.
<Let's keep chatting for now. Bob Fenner>

Community tank; hlth. concern     8/30/15
2 days ago I inherited a friends 75 gal with 2 Bala sharks (under 5 inches), 3 clown loaches( under 2 inches), 2 red fin rainbow sharks ( under 2 inches), 5 long fin zebra danios (about an inch each), and 2 Madagascan rainbow fish.
<Rainbows are social, shoaling species>
He brought the water they have been in for about a month, with the same substrate and filters. So its not quite a new tank. It was not cleaned, just taken apart, brought over and put back together. The water test shows ammonia 0, nitrate and nitrite 0,
<Zero nitrate? Unusual>
pH 7.1, hardness 100(closest), alkalinity 130. Water temp at 75°F. Waterfall filtration system handles up to 100 gal and is set at a med flow rate. Has 2 aeration stones.
This morning a clown loach, and both Madagascan rainbow fish died. The loach was super skinny, like it was not eating. The rainbow fish seemed fine last night. Early the rainbows seemed listless and not swimming.
Within 30 min of noticing they were both dead. Watching the other fish there seems to be no issues, no flashing, bloated bellies, spots of any color, no extra slime, poops all look normal.
<Something awry environmentally here... perhaps transient ammonia>
The fish in this tank are fed flake, crisps and shrimp pellets with occasional cucumber and zucchini.
I am stumped as to what happened. Any ideas?
<Can only guess; direct you to read HERE: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwdistrbshtart.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

re: Suggestions for Additions to my Tank; lg. SW stkg.       8/29/15
What species of goat fish would you recommend?

<See my family and our selection FAQs re on WWM>
I have pretty much read your site regarding ,triggers, rabbits tangs, a couple times over. I have also read on reef central as well. I have also read your site regarding comparability and knew some of my choices could result in a meal for another inhabitant. So much information so hard to make the right choice.
<Ah yes>
You asked why the PhosBan reactor, I use it because I do not use RO/DI water often and took care of my red slime issues in my old tank.
<I see>
What also helped that problem was switching salt mix to Fluval salt mix. That was recommended by a LFS I frequent.
Do you see a problem as my trigger gets bigger that I may have to remove the Melanarus Wrasse to another tank? I have another tank to remove him to if need be.
<The Trigger, this species, should be able to stay here indefinitely>
What hermit crabs other then Dardanus could you recommend to put with this mix of fish?
<None really. I would be/come the clean up crew>
Or aren't there any that won't eventually become food for the Pink Tailed Trigger one it reaches its full size?
<Yes; that and the Wrasse>
Or should I just go with buying a goat fish and skip the other crustaceans all together since the wrasse is a substrate sleeper?
Could the wrasse be in danger from a goat fish if it was sleeping?
<It will not be>
Thanks again. You run an amazing site here.
Kellylynn
<Welcome. BobF>

re: Some help... BR eels not FW        8/29/15
Thank u for all...
It don't matter to my friend I guess, he keeps telling me he'll take me to our public library and show me that ima wrong...lol
<Indeed, LOL.>
I told him about u Neale monks and ur back ground I looked u up and wrote everything down 4 him, and gave him his scientific evidence that he was wrong and u held all tha truth...it did no good he still say I am wrong that u are wrong..lol that's funny, I don't believe he even read anything...
<A common problem.>
I told him ill even show him are emails, hard headed I guess...I don't understand why he believes in a library book that some other dude wrote but willnt believe urs...
<Some folks don't want to have their minds changed. Even when deep down they know something is wrong. They still hold onto what they think and feel because it's easier than to change their mind and admit they were wrong.
Sometimes people just have to learn things the hard way, in this case, with sick/dead fish. Shame on them, but at the end of the day, "you can take a mule to a well but you can't make it drink".>
I don't know what 2 do he with my friend...
<Have your friend email us if wants, and I'd be happy to chat. Meantime, encourage him to strive to become a Master Fishkeeper, someone who reads up on the science and visits the library alongside wanting to develop the practical skills. We can all be better fishkeepers! Cheers, Neale.>
re: Some help... Becoming a master fishkeeper; oneself        8/29/15

Thank u..I will
I want 2 be apart of u and this site...
<You already are! By writing to us, your messages will become part of the WWM site.>
I love animals but fish are my thing.
<Study hard, and maybe find a profession where you can explore this. Academic routes of course, marine biology, oceanography, ichthyology... but also vocational training too, such as fish farming, river/lake management, aquarium maintenance contracting, pond construction and maintenance, aquarium shops even.>
What can I do 2 become apart of this and be a master fish keeper???
<Well, I can only tell you how I got started. Besides keeping lots of fish (often taking them back a few months later to try something new) I spent time reading and writing about fish. At first I joined a forum and got into the swing of helping others and learning from their experiences. Lots of good forums out there, two favourites of mine are PlanetCatfish and
SeriouslyFish (both awesome websites too) as well as numerous specialist ones like Loaches Online, The Puffer Forum, Monster Fishkeepers, and so on.
The more you write, the easier it becomes and the better able you are at articulating concepts. That's crucial to the next step, which was sending off freebie articles to websites that needed them. A lot of forums have "pinned topics" or articles that people read rather than comment on. But there are also websites selling fish or accessories that like to have
written articles as well, and these can be a good place to develop your skills and, importantly, get your name out there on the internet. Once you've done a couple freebies, pitch an article at a magazine or website that'll pay you. Such unsolicited article ideas are perfectly normal, but it's important to have a couple freebies online you can link to, so the editor can see you can write well. If writing isn't your thing, try photography. Fish photos are probably in more demand than articles to be honest! Some people do both, like Bob F., owner/manager of this website.
He's a semiprofessional diver as well, so a lot of his photos are of reefs in the tropics. If that interests you, then maybe diving is something to think about?>
I really wanna do somethin better and greater.
<A fantastic ambition. Might I also direct you to a couple relevant pages on this website:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/aqcareers.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/AqBizSubWebIndex/Biz%20Index/Biz%20index.htm
There's plenty of money to be made in the aquarium business, particularly the service side of things. Here in London there's a place called The Aquatic Design centre that can't recruit skilled aquarium maintenance people fast enough! Of course running your own service business would be better than working for someone else, but at the same time how cool would
working at Sea World be???>
Thank u sincerely terry
<Most welcome. Neale.>

re: Sea shells producing nitrites...why?       8/29/15
Hi Neale. So I started with a 50% dose(baking soda only) and then increased it to 100%. I've been adding the calcium chloride as well. I'm much closer to reaching the optimum relevant values in this tank (thank you so much).
<Welcome.>
My only issue at this point is that I'm confused about how I can continue to maintain the results.
<Easily.>
Should I continue to add the proper dosage of baking soda/calcium chloride to each batch of new water with every water change?
<Correct. So if you remove 5 gallons of water, you add the required amount for 5 gallons to the new buckets of tap water. The common mistake people make is to work out how much, say, their 20 gallon tank needs, and then add THAT amount each time they do a partial water change. That would end up raising the hardness and pH sky high after a while!>
I'm guessing this is a quick fix that I need to keep up with, but I just want to double check.
<Correct. One approach might be this: make up the correct ratio of baking soda and calcium chloride. I don't know what amount you're using, but let's imagine it's 1 tablespoon of Epsom salt to 1 teaspoon of calcium chloride.
That would be about right for 5 US gallons. Since 1 tablespoon = 3 teaspoons, if you were to mix those salts up nicely, then 4 teaspoons would be correct for 5 US gallons. With me so far? Since the ratio is the thing, you could use 3 cups of Epsom salt and 1 cup of calcium chloride, stir them together in a big Tupperware, and get the right salt mix. Take 4 teaspoons out for 5 gallons, or just 2 teaspoons for 2.5 gallons (an average bucket) and off you go! You'd have a ready supply of salt mix all made up and ready to use. Just remember to give it a bit of stir before use to keep both salts jumbled up nicely. Make sense? Quick, simple, and very cheap.>
Also, back to incorporating the sea shells. Since my original message I have boiled them quite a bit and soaked them in dechlorinated water for 2 days. Then I rinsed them and re-soaked them in untreated tap water for 2 days. After testing that water I am getting very slight (but positive) test results for ammonia and nitrites. Is there anything else I can do to purify
these shells or should I execute the plan all together?
<I would not use them at all in this case. You can buy shells that are safe for aquaria, and among the best are the cleaned shells sold in up market food stores alongside tins of French garlic-snails. These shells are spotlessly clean because they're used for cooking food. The garlic-snails ("escargot") are delicious if a bit weird in concept, so there's no waste!
Just looked on Amazon and you can even by the empty shells ("Empty Escargot Snail Shells") for under $10 including shipping!>
Thank you,
Danielle
<Cheers, Neale.>

Planaria or similar in freshwater tank       8/29/15
Hello, I am writing due to an issue I am having in my freshwater tanks. I have several, including one community, one invertebrate, one snail only and one Corydoras only. The issue with the worms began in my invertebrate tank.
Honestly, this freshwater home is what I call a "mercy tank". I started it to save the uninvited guests that I would often find in newly purchased plants, driftwood, etc.
<It sounds a really neat idea.>
This small tank now inhabits few species of dwarf shrimp, "pest" snails and most recently Planaria.
<Planarians are safe and common inhabitants of fish-free aquaria.>
I assume these problematic worms to be Planaria based on what I have read in prior posts on your site. They are tiny, skinny, white worms that seem to do no harm to those around them.
<Correct. They're fascinating animals under a microscope too, with all sorts of weird biological quirks to read up on.>
Plus I have to admit I often neglect the mercy tank since it isn't something I enjoy having.
<Benign neglect isn't a bad thing.>
Regardless, it is not filthy at all..and because of the dwarf (grass) shrimp I take better care of it than I normally would. After spotting the small worms, I began to clean the mercy tank more frequently. I have seen an improvent.
<Correct. Planarians like these will be feeding on organic detritus, and the more you clean the tank, the less food for them.>
Now, to the problem! I always rinse my tools in hit tap water before switching tanks, but today I suddenly saw a few of these white worms in my snail tank. This tank is not neglected or overfed. I am confident that the worms were transferred due to lack of proper sterilization of my equipment.
Am I possibly correct?
<Likely so, but could just as easily got there via aquarium plants or the snails themselves. Most aquaria (probably all) have at least some planarians in them, but being very small and often nocturnal we rarely see them.>
I have read about fluke tabs on your site. Are these safe for snails?
<Almost certainly not. It's a pretty obsolete medication that's not widely recommended anymore. Lots of horror stories on the Internet if you can to peruse. GeoChem "No Planaria" is a much better alternative.>
I would like to end this issue before it spreads to the tanks in which my fish inhabit. Plus, I am grossed out!
<Dipping shared equipment in aquarium steriliser will prevent cross-contamination, but bear in mind numerous fish will eat flatworms when hungry, so it's pretty rare for them to become a problem in FW aquaria unless that tank is seriously neglected/dirty.>
Please help.
Thank you,
Felicity
<Cheers, Neale.>
Want to add toy original email: parania or something similar       8/29/15

I just noticed that my snails seem to be bothered by something I can't see.
Two of my Malaysian trumpet snails were climbing the glass to the surface, then appeared to be shaking.
<MTS will rise to the top of the tank to get to the oxygenated water if the tank conditions aren't good. If you see them climbing the glass during the day, as if abandoning the gravel, that can be a bad sign (at night its normal for them to climb on the glass).>
I have a mystery snail as well that looks as if it is biting or scratching it's body directly under it's shell. They all look irritated.
<Possibly so. Check water quality and pH.>
Is this a vicious species of Planaria or am I dealing with something much worse??????!!!!
<There is indeed a predatory flatworm called Procotyla that will attack small prey, even baby shrimps (though not fish). Cheers, Neale.>

Flower horn injury or disease       8/29/15
Greetings WetWebMedia team
I have a female flower for almost 3 yrs now, three weeks ago I bot a new 150 gallons tank and put the fish in that, I also have 5 parrot fish and two chiclid along with it, recently I found few injuries on my flower horn.
Find attached images for better understanding (injury near the tail).
Please advice on what has happened to my flower horn and how to take care of it. I am very found of my flower horn and have been taking good care of it since 3 yrs please advice on what to do.
<Hello Mohamed. Looks like a slightly infected bacterial wound. If water quality is excellent it will probably heal without medicine. But I'd add an antibiotic or anti-Finrot medication as a preventative. More important is figuring out why this fish is injured. Some of these cichlids might be fighting, or at least being boisterous enough for this Flowerhorn to be scared and jumped into something. Check there aren't any jagged rocks in the tank. Sometimes "Plec" catfish cause these wounds too. Cheers, Neale.>

re: Flower horn injury or disease       8/29/15
Thanks a lot, much appreciated
<Welcome. Neale.>
re: Flower horn injury or disease       8/29/15

Can you also tell me names of the medication and where I can find them.
<Here in the UK, I'd be using eSHa 2000. Reliable and good value. Don't forget to remove carbon from the filter while using medication. Neale.>

re: Some help... Now, Clingfish        8/29/15
Mr. Neale,
A pet store owner just gave me a free fish yesterday that he really didn't want I have a 65gallon saltwater tank, with coralife super skimmer 65g,1 240 powerhead,
This is a octagon tank, fish tank only mmay I say... Well he had it for a year and didn't want it and it was free...(name clingfish) I took it to give it a better home and life, I know it eats algae they people really didn't know anything about it really I look it up but was having trouble finding my clingfish any help here please???
<Clingfish are members of the family Gobiesocidae. Despite looking like gobies, they're not gobies.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gobiesocidae
They're mostly adapted to living on rocky shores and reefs, hidden away from predators. They're pretty neat animals. Some information about them here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/gobiesocidae.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clingfishfaqs.htm
They aren't demanding fish, but they are slow-moving micro-predators, so best suited to nano tanks kept alone or with shrimps and perhaps small gobies such as Neon Gobies, which are excellent aquarium fish.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/neongobies.htm
One nice thing about Neon Gobies is that they're a lot easier to keep than their small size and bright colours might suggest.>
Clingfish is colors are gray and it looks lika a rock.
<Do need a photo.>
Can u give me any info on were this fish is from???
<Without identifying the fish, hard to say. Your biggest challenge is determining whether it's a tropical or coldwater species. Coldwater marine species sometimes get traded as "filler" alongside the tropical fish, and if kept in tropical tanks don't live long. Some of the tropical species are difficult to keep, Diademichthys lineatus in particular. So we do need a photo. Failing that, enter "clingfish" in Google Images and see if you can find your little chap.>
Thank u sincerely terry
<Cheers, Neale.>

Blue crayfish injury?       8/29/15
Good evening,
<Good morrow here now Sheila>
We have a question about our blue crayfish. He managed to climb up into a rock decoration in our cichlid tank. He was in there for a full day and we could see him, twice, try to get out and was unable to squeeze out the hole.
<Unusual.... should be able to get out of anything it can get into>
We left him alone while turning the rock cave upside down hoping he would get out. We became concerned after an entire day/night in the rock/decoration so we decided to break the rock to get him out. We did not break the rock where he was but next to where he was. He was finally able to crawl out on his own but now we can see what appears to us as "white
flesh" popping out the top of his shell right behind his head. He is now hiding under a log, one he can't climb in, and is on his "tip toes" so to speak. Is there anything we can do to help him?
<Yes; this physical injury will heal sooner given good water quality and nutrition. Plus, I'd up the dosing of iodine (ide-ate actually) here.
Please read: http://wetwebmedia.com/CrayTraumaF.htm
and the linked files above; till you feel confident in how to proceed>
Thank you,
OD Family
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

 

Mollies     8/28/15
Hi I am worry about my black Molly it has a white spot on its neck just before its fin i don't know if I should go and buy a small tank and put it in because the tank has the new babies in it by the way my tank is 65gal and the other one is 20gal thank you
<Mmm; just one spot.... I would not over-react; would NOT treat or move the fish. The water in this system is hard and alkaline I take it; these fish fed a good deal of green-based foods? Bob Fenner>

Out of town fdg. concern, FW      8/28/15
So...I am going to be leaving tomorrow evening and be out of town for 5 days, and while I have an automatic feeder for the main tank,
<Wouldn't bother for 5 days. Risks outweigh the benefits. Do see WWM re: the use of holiday feeders.>
I don't have one for the quarantine tank (where the blue Acara still are).
I am reluctant to put them in the main tank until the service comes to clean it out more thoroughly than I can. I was wondering whether I could put a large algae wafer or two in the QT for them to eat while I am gone.
<You could. Or just add some lettuce leaves, a couple slices of cucumber, a piece of courgette/zucchini... let them nibble away on the softened vegetables over time. Much healthier, and because these foods are low protein, the risk to water quality is minimal. Fish can go weeks without food, and if they're hungry, they'll eat algae and soft aquarium plants
(floating Indian Fern is ideal). Some will even take down a few snails!
Absolutely no need to worry about feeding standard community fish for trips two weeks or less.>
I'm not sure if this is normal, but I have noticed the blue Acara sort of nibble throughout the day instead of gobbling up their food immediately like some of my other fish.
<Correct. In the wild these fish are bulk omnivores, grazing on algae, organic detritus, and sifting sediment for small bits of plants and insect larvae. Concentrated, high protein foods like we give them simply don't exist in their lives in the wild.>
(I have found the zeolite lasts a long time, even while having to feed them frozen food, so if I put a fresh batch of zeolite in the filter before I leave I think I can get away with this.)
<Quite so, and if you don't feed quarantined fish during a few days' absence, or add floating Indian Fern that will absorb ammonia while providing food, so much the better. In summary: if aquarium fish are a chore during vacations, you're keeping them wrong! Cheers, Neale.>

Red Macroalgae ID?     8/28/15
<Seven plus megs.....?>
This is an algae update, better pictures and more samples, any ideas?
<Maybe a Botryocladia sp. BobF>

Re: Red Macroalgae ID?     8/28/15
Maybe the high res.? thank you for your time
<Heeeee! Welcome>
Sent from my iPhone
<I can't afford that. B>
James

Apple snails- overstocked?     8/28/15
Hello crew, thanks for this fantastic site. I have a quick question regarding my apple snails. I have 12 (Pomacea diffusa), most medium sized with a few being full grown and now 2 egg clutches just appeared. They are housed in a 20 gallon long tank, but due to the lowered water line, substrate, etc., the tank is only holding about 14 gallons of water. I have 2 power filters, one internal and one hang on back, with a combined filtration capacity of 300 gallons per hour. There is also a small sponge filter. The reason I am concerned is that I am having a hard time fully cycling this tank. I would really appreciate your opinion on this. Thanks so much.
Gabby
<Can you clone a filter? In other words, take some medium from an established filter and replace it with some of the medium in the new filter. Established filters can lose up to half their biological media without problems. Assuming water chemistry and temperature are similar, the bacteria will adapt to the new filter quickly and immediately process ammonia. They'll also colonise the rest of media inside the new filter very quickly, likely within a few days. This process is very reliable if done properly. It does assume you're using filters that can donate or accept media such as ceramic noodles or filter floss, or else the two filters are identical and can share proprietary modules. If all else fails, adding a few cups of gravel from a mature tank can help, though this is less effective because filter bacteria only colonise the very top layer of
gravel where oxygenated water is to be found. Gravel deeper than, say, 1 cm from the surface won't have many/any of the "good" bacteria we're after.
Cheers, Neale.>

Yellow Longnose Butterflyfish Help!     8/28/15
Hello,
<Hi there>
I came across your site while trying to determine what was going on with my Longnose butterflyfish. You have by far the most and best information I could find, so I thought I’d send an email in hopes you can help me. I’ve had a yellow Longnose butterflyfish for 3 weeks now. He’s currently in a 75 gallon quarantine tank. In the beginning there was no problem with feeding. He ate all the mysis I fed.
<Needs more than this>
Recently, he hasn’t been eating anything. He will swim up to every piece of food floating around, but will only eat maybe 1 or 2 of them. I’ve tried a few drops of garlic extreme in the mysis, tried Selcon, and tried krill, bloodworms, and clams as well. Today, I noticed red spots around his mouth.
<Not good... perhaps indicative of a deficiency (nutritional) syndrome, something awry w/ water quality>
He his hiding, and stays towards the bottom of the tank in a corner. Any idea what this could be, or what to do at this point?
<Can only guess... I'd be offering live food items, soaked in a vitamin, HUFA mix. Adding a few time dose of iodide-ate to the water. Do you use chemical filtrants in this system? What other life is present?>
The temperature is 80, ph is 8.2, salinity is 1.024, and there is no ammonia. Any help is appreciated.
-Steve
<Bob Fenner>

Re: Yellow Longnose Butterflyfish Help!     8/28/15
Bob,
<Ave Steve>
Thanks so much for the quick reply. I understand from reading your articles that this red spot is not a good sign, but I’m still hopeful. I am continuing to do water changes to keep the water quality up. I am also picking up some live blackworms today, so hopefully he will eat something.
<Good>
I will try soaking them in a vitamin mix as well. No chemical filtrates are being used in this tank and he is currently the only life in the tank (it’s a single fish quarantine tank). Can you point me in the right direction on iodide-ate?
<The search tool (on every page, on WWM; or the indices: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/iodf2.htm
I’m not quite sure what/how much to add.
<Instructions above, and on commercially made products... no worries re overdosing>
Do you think lowering the salinity would be beneficial?
<A good question... BFs don't appreciate such manipulation in general. I would not do this>
Any other possible treatments?
<Not at this juncture if it were me/mine>
Thanks again for all the help…
-Steve
<Welcome. BobF>

Suggestions for Additions to my Tank      8/28/15
Hello Wet Web Crew, I am looking to add some additions to my tank. My tank is 200 gallons with a 75 gallon refugium. It is a FOWLR tank. Water chemistry is in check. 0 nitrates and nitrites (I have a nitrate filter) 0 ammonia, ph 8.3 salinity 1.023 temp 79 degrees F. I also have a PhosBan reactor,
<? Why the use of the chemical filtrants here? For what purpose/s?>
large skimmer. I have upgraded since last I wrote to you requesting advice. I unfortunately lost a few fish in the move. My 9 year old Siganus Doliatus unfortunately died along with a bicolor angel due to a heater malfunction in their temporary accommodations. My new set up has 5 yellow tailed damsels, a long nosed Hawkfish, Purple tang, a Melanarus Wrasse, a One Spot Fox Face Rabbit and a 5 inch Pink Tailed Trigger. In my old tank I had a Dardanus Megistos crab,
<Yikes>
since my previous puffer and the pink tail trigger could not make a meal out of him. The crab was in a 9 inch triton shell and died at 5 years of age. I am guessing he died of old age. Although I enjoyed caring for this amazing critter. He became quite the hulk and could move rather large rocks looking for tasty morsels.
I am looking for your advice as to what to add to my tank for a clean up crew.
<Ahh! My/our opinions re such are posted/archived on WWM. Do read there>
And or additional fish. I have some small crabs which are all still surprisingly alive. I also have a black long spine urchin. I know eventually that they could become food for the Trigger. Also have two skunk cleaner shrimp that the Trigger has lived with successfully for a year as has the Hawkfish. I also know they could become food for many of my inhabitants if the mood strikes them.
<Yes>
Would a goat fish work in my set up to clean the substrate?
<Yes>
Any suggestions that you would have as far adding a critter that will turn over the substrate as well and as effectively as the Dardanus Crab did?
<The goat/s will do it/this>
Are there any smaller hermits that perhaps only reach 5 inches?
<Many; see WWM re the preferred available species>
The Dardanus Crab was nearly 1 foot long when I removed his corpse from his 9 inch triton shell.
<Neat!>
Also the Pink Tailed Trigger is the most shy fish I have ever had. His/her personality is more like that of a marine Betta then the triggers I have read about. Will that change as this fish gets larger?
<Mmm; maybe... depends really on what else is placed here... other Tetraodontiform fish/es might prompt a change in behavior/outgoingness>
Will his tail get a darker shade of pink?
<Again; depends... on nutrition mostly>
It is the palest pink right now. They get a variety of chopped meaty sea food soaked in vitamins.
<Good>
They get spectrum pellets and flake food. And Nori for the herbivores.
I have always found you're advice sound so any suggestions would be helpful.
Regards, Kellylynn
<Do keep perusing WWM re stocking various "kinds" of systems, then the pertinent family coverage re compatibility and selection/stocking. Oh, and write back w/ specific questions, concerns as you reveal them. Bob Fenner>


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