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Daily Q&A replies/input from the WWM crew: Nate Guerette, Rick Novy, Bobby
Rudro, Jordan Stari, Sue Garrett, Darrel Barton,
Neale Monks, Marco Lichtenberger, Sabrina Sharp, James Gasta, Eric Russell, Chris Perivolidis,
Lynn Zurik, Chuck Rambo, Bob Fenner, are posted here. Moved
about, re-organized daily
Current Crew Bios., Not so current Crew Bios
Angelfishes for Marine Aquariums
Diversity, Selection & Care
New eBook on Amazon: Available
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by Robert (Bob) Fenner
| PLEASE: Write reviews of my works on Amazon! I need your input. BobF
Note: RMF will be out 9/4-22 (dive-adventure traveling in
Bali; so no crocodilian apical secretions por moi). Hence the Dailies may be
Here's a question for you.........
I rebuilt my fish room after a fire, and I have five racks of marine tanks,
totaling about 3000 gallons.
I populated the tanks (with a little nitrifying bacteria from Dr. G) in the last
six months, and the last rack was populated about two months ago.
<Okay; likely these microbes have been supplanted by others... even originating
from the air>
All of my readings are fine (a few nitrates, but that's to be expected).
All of a sudden (not sure how sudden it was), one of my racks (six 80 gallon
tanks with two wet/dry filters with bioballs)
<Mmm; am compelled to mention I don't favour these media... given to variations,
vagaries of nitrification... I'd pull them>
has a nitrite reading of about 3.0 ppm.
The only thing in these six tanks is 8 fire gobies, 1 flame angel, 6 pj
cardinals, a passer angel and a few Chromis. Everyone seems
fine and is eating.
<I'd check the test gear...>
My questions are:
1) Why did this happen?
<Loss of nitrifiers? Nitrobacter old name>
2) If I leave it will the nitrites go down on their own?
<Should... but when?>
3) How would you resolve this?
<Feed little, carefully... perhaps move the fishes elsewhere>
Please let me know your thoughts.
Re: Nitrites 9/20/14
Thanks for the response, as well as your input.
One more thing, though........If I'm going to keep many of these tanks fully
stocked, isn't a biotower the way to go???
<Meh... I'd go with as large as you can refugium and DSBs as you can fit per
sub-system tied together>
What type of media would you use??
<This is posted, gone over and over on WWM. Am sorry to be/appear so cranky, but
the Net here in Bali is too slow and tenuous for me to look up links for
p.s. I did put a piece of potentially phosphate-laden rock in about a week ago,
but I can't see how that could be a factor.
Filtering out water from sand
Hi crew, hope all is going well. I have a freshwater aquarium with a
sand substrate. When I clean the sand I try my best not to suck up any,
but I always do get some. When I am done I have a mixture of sand and
water in my bucket. I was wondering in you were familiar with a type of
screen or filter that I could separate the sand and put it back into the
tank. Thank you for your help.
<I would pour off the water (and mulm), maybe give the sand a bit of a
rinse with tapwater, and pour in back into the tank... Look for a gravel
vacuum with a "long throat" that will allow the sand to mix in it, but
not be so much sucked out... Perhaps a Python product.
Too many gobies? Fish compatibility
Hi you guys!
We have had a 210 gallon tank for several years and it had a mandarin
goby living happily for many years! We have changed things up now am
re-starting a larger tank. This one is about 350 gallons (plus). It has
a lot of live rock as well as live sand and about a 25 gallon refugium.
There are some blue reef Chromis, a hippo tang and now we just added 2
Diamond Gobies (best buds!) and several shrimp. Our plan is to add the
following fish: Naso tang, Kole tang, yellow tang, a pair of carpenter
wrasse, a McCosker's wrasse, Bartlett and lyre tail Anthias, a flame
angle, Midas blenny, and a few pajama cardinals, and I really want to
add a mandarin goby (in several more months) as well. The Diamond gobies
were an afterthought but we still want a mandarin again. Will they
compete for food?
<To a degree; yes. Likely not an issue in this size system...>
Will the tank be able to sustain the pod population enough for the 3
gobies long term. One goby is eating the Mysids but the other isn’t yet.
We don’t want to overfeed the tank and create other issues but I don’t
want any to starve. Should I be adding other things to the tank? Should
we be buying or otherwise breeding pods?
<I'd wait and see... likely not necessary to add... to the production in
the tank and 'fuge here. Let your observation of the fishes behavior and
"fullness" be your guide. >
Last but not least (sorry) is that we want to add a pair of blue throat
triggers. We had a pair that were very well behaved for years. But now
that I’m getting some smaller fish (and have the shrimp again - cleaner,
fire and peppermint), I want to be sure trying the blue throats won’t be
a mistake. I don’t want them to eat or harm the smaller fish or shrimp.
Should I give up or if so, is there another fish you would recommend in
<Well; these are the most peaceful of Balistids...>
Love your advice. I like happy tank mates and a busy but not overcrowded
thanks for your help!
-Pam and Dave
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: Formalin>Malachite Treatment for Wrasses exposed to Ick?
Thanks, Bob. I had read so many responses that Rid Ich was a joke so I
was really concerned. I'm glad to hear it is a viable option.
<...? You can/could just read my/our input re Malachite Green archived
I guess I was doubtful it would completely get rid them of Ich, because
its repeated time and time again that Hypo and copper are the only 2
ways to be sure.
<Mmm; hypo- not so much/often>
So I must ask again, should I do a hypo treatment after a week of this
<Up to you. Am not a fan>
Here's a pic of the culprits before I got them out.
When you say too many disparate species for a 20, do you mean because
they are all different?
<Yes; too numerous and incompatible behavior-crowding wise>
Here's a pic so you can get a visual of the sizes. They are really
getting along well and not nipping, etc, if that's what you meant. I'd
really like to not have to stress them by switch tanks again. Will this
Many mahalos and a hui hou!
<.... again; I'd use the 55. The Kona wind/Kilauea must be getting to
African clawed frog question 9/19/14
Hello, my tank kept getting green moss and I was cleaning it like every three
weeks. I have had my African clawed frog for almost 7 years now. Not sure why so
much moss lately (maybe because we moved to Tennessee from Colorado). Anywho, I
got tired of cleaning the tank and bought some algae stuff from Wal-Mart by
<Don't buy chemical algae removers! Bad medicine!>
It did not say on the small bottle that it would harm amphibians but on their
website it did.
<Indeed. Plus, it fixes nothing in the long term. Algal spores are in the air.
So even if you kill off the algae in your aquarium, it's days before they're
back, and likely your tank will be as green as ever before a month's out.>
Long story short, my frog almost died. I immediately took him out of the water,
cleaned the tank thoroughly and kept him in a small holding tank for two days.
His eyes turned white. We thought he was blind.
<Which they pretty much are to begin with.>
Then the white stuff turned cottony and is now coming off but his eyes are
reddish in color. Not bright red but they look infected. What can I do to help
him and is he blind?
<Treat as per Fungus, choosing something that should be relatively safe, namely
Methylene Blue. Use at 1/2 the dose quoted on the bottle to begin with. If,
after a few days, there's no improvement, you can add another 1/2 dose (in other
words, taking it up to the full dose).>
For about a week when his eyes were white he didn't eat because he couldn't find
his food. Since then (about three weeks now) I've cleaned his tank twice just to
make sure all of the infected water is out. Please tell me this is an easy fix.
<Hope this helps, Neale.>
Re: African clawed frog question
Thank you. I will try it and send you an email in a couple days to let you know
<Good luck, Neale.>
Euro Braced Acrylic Tank and T5HO…Too Much Heat? <Nope> -
In your experience does hanging a T5HO 4 bulb (4x54 watt) fixture about
6 inches above an acrylic tank cause any issues from heat or
discoloration to the plastic over time?
<<Not at all…I am utilizing LED lighting over my acrylic display tank
now, but ran much hotter Metal Halides over the tank for quite a few
years without issue>>
I am mostly concerned with top seams getting weak on the tank. The brand
of the fixture is Hydrofarm EnviroGro and it is 4 feet long. I ran it
for a bit and the plastic was warm not hot, but I am really not sure how
much heat is safe for acrylic?
<<Not accounting for flaws in materials/workmanship, as long as the heat
is not enough to soften or otherwise distort the acrylic you’ll be
The tank is 90 gallons and just has the two cut out openings in the top.
Thanks for the assistance!
<<Happy to share! EricR>>
silver arowana 9/19/14
hi I have two baby silver arowana...
<And a huge aquarium, I hope!>
the one is perfectly fine. the other little sick, he tends to swim for
awhile, quite fast if I may add, he then sinks down to the bottom of
grasping for air, when done resting, then starts swimming, sometimes
bringing his head out above water, for air,
<Yes, they can breathe air to some degree... usually when stressed.>
his breathing fairly heavy.....I've feeding them centipi,
<Centipedes do you mean?>
shrimps and calamari rings,
<Do vary the diet; would also include a good quality pellet food...
Hikari Tropical Food Sticks for example are specifically formulated for
I've already did operation, gills
and I've already drop a few bladder tablets into water thinking he has
infection his bladder,
<Almost certainly not the problem.>
but still he remains the same, I haven't being feeding them for a few
days, did so today he didn't eat..... please advise thank you. 000 oh
his a few cm in length
<How big is the Arowana? How big is the aquarium?>
<Let's recap. Silver Arowanas are very large, easily getting to a metre
(over 3 ft) in length. They are also quite delicate. "Gill Curl" and
"Droop Eye" are two classic symptoms of the unhappy Arowana. You need a
massive aquarium, even for young specimens. Assuming these are under a
year old, say, 10 cm/4 inches long, even a 100-gallon aquarium would be
"small" by their standards. Water chemistry should be soft and slightly
acidic. They do not do well in hard water. Obviously water quality must
Lots of filtration with a strong water current is important. Arowanas
are not sociable. Single specimens are easiest to keep. They can also be
kept in large groups -- in public aquaria! -- but keeping 2 or 3
specimens in a home aquarium will usually end up with the dominant
specimen bullying the others. Bottom line, my assumption would be living
conditions are wrong (and unless you're a millionaire, providing the
right conditions at home will probably be impossible) with social
behaviour aggravating things. Do read Bob's review/s, here:
If you're a rich, expert fish keeper -- then keeping a (single) Silver
Arowana is viable, in which case write back with some information on
your aquarium, filter, etc. But if you aren't a rich, expert fish keeper
-- in all honesty, rehoming both fish would be a very wise move.
Sudden Cleaner Shrimp & Fire Shrimp die-off in Seahorse Tank
Hi Bob & WWM crew,
Hubby and I run an aquarium maintenance company
<Ahh! Friends and I did this for 19 years>
with nearly a decade in the saltwater hobby
and have never run into an issue like this, we are a bit
puzzled and hope you might have some insight. One of our clients
has a 100 gallon saltwater aquarium with about
40 lbs of live rock, sump system with
additional filtration, gorgonians,
<Can you state which species?>
macro algae, 4 cleaner shrimp, 4 fire/cherry
shrimp, 6 peppermint shrimp, snails and two H. reidi seahorses
that have babies every couple of weeks. Everything except the
peppermint shrimp has been in the aquarium for
at least 6 months. There are also two
hitchhiker crabs that we haven't yet been able to catch.
Last week we added the peppermint shrimp to
help get rid of a few Aiptasia anemones that were
starting to grow. We service the aquarium every two weeks with
water change and filter maintenance.
<Ah good. We used to visit "horse" tanks weekly>
The shrimp and seahorses are well fed and I must
say, voracious eaters.
Last night the client said a couple of the cleaner shrimp started to
Today when we arrived all cleaner shrimp and fire shrimp are dead.
Peppermint shrimp, seahorses and corals all appear normal and healthy.
Tank parameters are normal, temp, salinity,
ammonia, etc. What might cause this mass die
off of a particular species of shrimp?
<"Something" in the system... metal/s; biological agents. Do you use
GAC? Am a huge fan of punctuated use (switching out one of two units) of
My first thoughts include:
contaminant in the system (did a guest spray perfume near the tank?),
wacky micro-mineral levels (although we do
regular water changes with high quality reef
salt), or perhaps the peppermint shrimp introduced some sort of
parasite or disease?
Any ideas would be tremendously helpful.
<The GAC... is the route I would go for now; this and perhaps a pad of
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Formalin>Malachite Treatment for Wrasses exposed to Ick?
Aloha! Are wrasses really that sensitive to Hypo?
<Some smaller genera, species more than others; but about "medium"
I have a 100g. here in Hawaii that I have enjoyed, Ich free, for years
thanks to you and the hypo treatment protocol I learned here.
I have lots of live rock, with minimal gadgets, based on streamlining
power consumption running off solar power and a sump filled with lava
rock. I have gotten lazy and have not been QT new specimens as they come
from a LFS on Kona side of the Big Island here and they pretreat with
copper. I know, not smart, but I haven't had probs and based on power
conservation for my solar setup, I have chose to not run the QT tank.
Obviously this is not a luxury and really a MUST HAVE!
I got that slap of reality when I brought a Green Hawaiian Lionfish and
3 Moorish Idols back from an ocean collection last full moon... along
with a jeweled anemone crab and some Hawaiian Green Shrimp. I didn't QT
them and found bad Ich all over the MI's the next morning! Doh!!!
<Idols are very susceptible>
I took them immediately back to the ocean and set up my Hospital tank.
At the LFS here on Hilo side I was getting salt and was told that my
wrasses will not make it through the hypo treatment, and that, I believe
the Lionfish won't handle the copper, or maybe it was the wrasses as
well. The point is he convinced me Formalin Malachite was my only
<Good; tried and true approach, though nowayears am a bigger fan of
So I bought the Ich plus poison and brought it home with my bucket of
salt and got to work. Finally everything is now in my 20 gal hospital
1 Juvenile Coris
1 Juvenile Green Hawaiian Lionfish
1 Small Elegant Wrasse
1 Sailfin Tang (Rescued from Petco bad icy, about to die and made it
through hypo treatment and has been fine for 2 years)
1 Blue Chromis
1 Hawaiian 2 Spot Butterfly- I think goes by a different name but very
1 Flame Angel.
<Too many disparate fishes for a 20>
Maybe too much for my 20 gal but seemed like overkill to setup my 55 gal
<Fire this 55 over>
and do all those water changes.
I have read and searched all over WWM for the last 3 days and still
don't have a clear answer on what to do.
<READ re Quinine.... CP... use the search tool>
I have 2 tsp the commercial formalin/malachite formula in the 20 gal,
backpack filter, bubble, bare bottom, plastic hiding shelf thing, no
heater keeping steady at around 80. I'd like to add a few coral pieces
but was worries about it absorbing the medicine. Only the Tang,
Butterfly , Lionfish and Angel were showing any white spots, but I
believe I need to treat them all, even the Wrasses that are not showing
any symptoms, right?
Should I run the course of 1 week, then just flush it out with water
changes... probably put carbon in my hang on filter?
I put some of the live rock from the sump in there (cinders) but the
formalin will probably kill the biological, right?
<Oh yes; and quickly... have to change the water frequently>
After the week I'd like to go hypo so that the Ich is for sure gone
while I allow my tank to fallow for 6 weeks. Can I do this with the list
above and not kill the wrasses, lionfish etc?
<If done carefully>
Should I avoid hypo for these guys and just keep them on life support in
the Hospital tank until 6 weeks?
<Need to keep a CAREFUL eye on all>
<A hu'i hou! Bob Fenner>
Aquaculture as a Career 9/19/14
Hello there crew,
I appreciate that you exist for questions. I have asked you many and you
have always been helpful. It is time now that I ask you some questions
that I have not yet had answered. I am very interested in learning more
about aquaculture as a career. I am currently completing my BS in
Biology and plan to attain a MS in Marine biology, I dream of getting a
PhD in aquaculture. (it is strangely odd for me to type PhD, as I am
accustomed to typing pH with the capitalization juxtaposed, but I
I have managed a saltwater retail store for a few years, did the
ordering, maintained the systems, installed large commercial systems,
managed several varying freshwater and marine ecosystems, maintained
aquariums of clients.
I am really wanting to study ornamental aquaculture.
So my questions are these:
-What schools are recommended specifically for this type of study?
<Mmm; would have to search (on the Net likely) or ask around... of
folks, friends actively/current in the field. But I will state that it's
if not more important that you ally yourself with specific people,
graduate advisor who shares similar values, goals... and that you
engender to have a deep and wide understanding of the field: Nutrition,
disease, marketing, statistics, biology....>
-Do you know anyone who would be willing to guide me to a better
understanding of my journey?
<Mmm; which part of the world do you live in, want to live in? I am
hoping that Carol Cozzie-Schmarr of Ocean Rider (bcc'd here) will chime
Preferably with a PhD in aquaculture if there is someone.
-In the opinions of yourself and others you may know, is this a viable
field of study? What are the career prospects and pay grades for someone
in this field?
<Is a viable field; most places, positions not well-paying... even
transient by and large... but better than years before. You may well
to relocate... a few times over the years>
-It seems that permitting and regulations are the most difficult
challenges for the persons who have shared with me thus far, what other
issues consistently plague people in this career?
<Well; the search for "more standard" career... Companies, positions
come and go. I STRONGLY encourage you to travel, visit places... Like
the Big Island... NELHA/OTEC... Have been out last week visiting Bali
Aquarich myself this last week... Bob Fenner>
White stuff on aquarium glass
I am having a constant problem with a build up of white stuff on my
aquarium glass. It wipes off easily (more easily than the green algae on
my glass) and does not appear to be any high hiking critter that I know
Power heads do not blow it off. My tanks is a 75gal FOLWR and I'm
running an aqua c remora and a denitrator. I have a refugium with
lettuce leaf and Chaeto. I am dosing calcium and ph buffer to get my ro/di
water to the correct ph. Ph is currently 8.1. I have phosban and
activated charcoal in media bags.
<I'd remove this... try Lanthanum on a punctuated basis if you have a
transient HPO4 issue>
A few thoughts I had are that it might be some kind of precipitate or
particles in the water are clinging to the algae on my glass. In tends
build up pretty fast and starts to come back about 3 days after
Thanks for your help.
<Could be biological or not... I'd scoop out some, concentrate it if
necessary and look under a scope... I'd also try not using one product,
mode to see if this eliminates the issue... And the usual GAC and
Polyfilter. Bob Fenner>
African Dwarf Frog Question 9/18/14
Hello, Bob & Company!
I’ve written you before about my marine aquarium (which is doing wonderfully,
with happy fish and growing corals) but today I’ve got a question about an
inherited frog. My son recently inherited a Betta and an African Dwarf Frog
(webbed front feet, ID confirmed). The person he got them from had housed them
together but we immediately separated them for their own good. Both are doing
well - in separate tanks.
I’ve taken custody of the frog (as my son is in college “with the Betta” and had
only room for one tank in his apartment). I used your site to establish the
frog's tank and water parameters (I already had an appropriately-sized, cycled,
FW tank running and growing live plants, so fortunately that wasn’t an issue)
and feeding schedule (thank you for the wonderful resources - I’d have been lost
<Glad of use.>
Here’s the question: Clyde (the frog) eats well and is really fun to watch.
She’s quite active, especially in the evenings, and she loves creeping around
through the plants. Periodically, though, she seems to “stand up” on her hind
legs and stand there, frozen, for almost a minute. (She does this maybe once
every few hours.) At the end of that time, she falls backward (almost like a
person doing a “trust fall”) and right before she hits the substrate, she flips
back right side up and goes back about her business. Is this a normal behaviour?
<Pretty much, yes. Often they "stand up" before swimming up to gulp air, I guess
to minimise the distance they travel and/or look out for predators. They aren't
strong swimmers and are likely easy prey once in open/mid water. In the wild
they inhabit very shallow pools, and offering some floating plants so they can
rest before doing the return journey seems appreciated.>
She doesn’t seem stressed, she’s eating (and pooping) well, and her activity
level is high, but not frenzied. I couldn’t find anything about this on your FAQ
pages (I read them first) and wondered if this is a “frog thing” or just Clyde
being odd. She’s about a year old, if that makes any difference. And yes, my son
named her Clyde before we realized she was female.
Thanks in advance for the help!
Mysterious Fish Deaths, Please Help
<Amber.... you know there is a Centropyge angel named after a spelling
of your family name?>
I would like to start by saying, as many others have, that your advice
is beyond appreciated and absolutely priceless. I have spent several
hundred hours on this website
and have always found the answer I was looking for, until now. I will
try to keep this simple.
I have a 300 gallon salt water tank. It is roughly a year and a half
This is my 5th tank, and I have been in the hobby for 4 years. Fish have
been added every 2 months or so, and with the exception of an occasional
Ich outbreak, I have had fairly good luck, knock on wood.
The inhabitants were as follows:
1 Blue Hippo Tang
4 Percula Clowns
1 Yellow Eye'd Kole
1 Achilles Tang
1 Powder Brown Tang
1 Juvi Imperator
1 Cream Angel
1 Bi-color Foxface
1 Goldflake Angel
All are between 1.5 to 3 inches in length, and will be relocated to a
bigger tank when the time comes.
My water parameters are as follows:
Temperature is a constant 78F.
I'm operating a 100 gallon wet dry sump, with 3 UV filters and a protein
I do not run carbon, for fear of HLLE.
<I see... though its use is implicated, I am still a fan of GAC use on a
punctuated basis (every month or so...)>
Herein lies the problem:
One week ago, I noticed the Kole laying on her side on the bottom,
breathing normally with zero visible markings on her. I caught her
in a net, and moved her into quarantine. She was dead by morning. I
figured it was an issue with her swim bladder, as it came on so suddenly
and again, she had nothing visibly wrong with her, was eating the night
Two days after the Kole, the Achilles displayed the same issue. Laying
on her side, body curved in a 'C' shape, breathing normally but unable
to swim. Threw her into quarantine and she was dead within 6 hours.
3 days ago, the Powder Brown met the exact same fate, and just yesterday
so did the Bi-Color Foxface.
To say I am at a complete loss would be an understatement. I have a
grounding wire in the sump, there is zero current getting into the tank.
My water is absolutely pristine, as I have tested it myself almost
hourly at this point, and have brought in samples to three different
LFS's in the area. I have been doing 20-30% water changes daily, since
the loss of the Kole. No one shows any sign of duress whatsoever and
then all of a sudden they are on the bottom of the tank, when just mere
hours before they were up swimming, eating, and behaving normally. There
is zero aggression or bullying to speak of, and again, zero markings of
any sort were on all 4 that died.
<Strange... and frightening... is this some sort of parasite peculiar to
Acanthuroids? My bet, guess is on something they are encountering,
ingesting in this system (on the rock, substrate).... The list is very
large... "just" BGA of various kinds... hydrozoans... But, how to remove
it? Perhaps supplant it with other foods? Oh, IF you have occasion to
save/preserve the specimens... one could profit from necropsying their
It is an absolute conundrum, and no one else in the hobby that I know
personally, nor any of the LFS's have any sort of solution.
If anyone could weigh in, and help me to figure out what in the world I
could possibly be missing here, I would be ever so grateful.
Thank you again for all you do for those of us in the hobby!
<Ahh; my guess is predicated on the relatedness of these fishes; their
feeding modes. There might be merit in changing some parameter in the
system; to favor other life forms... allowing NO3, HPO4 to accumulate
for instance, increasing or decreasing lighting... to "get rid" of the
presumed noxious material. Do please report back your further
observations, findings. Bob Fenner>
Re: Yellow clown goby - worried 9/18/14
You're right! He did get darker today and looks fine. Will read more on
<Ahh!~ good. Just saw an unusual Gobiodon sp. two days back here diving
in Tulamben, Bali... and thought of you/r situation. BobF>
Parrot fish behavior 9/17/14
I have two large parrot fish, at least 4" who are approx 8 years old.
They are the only fish in my 26 gallon tank. They are eating very well
and generally appear happy and healthy (they lose their bright orange color
frequently but it returns) within hours. My question, They have started a weird
swimming to the top and bumping hard at the top of the aquarium. So hard they
splash water out. Should I be concerned by this behavior?
<Hello Denise. As Bob stated, the aquarium is far too small for these cichlids,
and that's likely the root cause of your problems. I bet if they
were in (or moved to) a 55-gallon aquarium then you'd see their colours and
moods would be better. So yes, do start by reading here:
Follow up by understanding that your cichlids aren't that old (12-15 years is
about the lifespan of these fish under good conditions) so we can't
dismiss these problems as "just old age". Nitrate is the key factor with large
cichlids, alongside of course nitrite and ammonia. So while good
filtration (and moderate stocking and feeding) help keep nitrite and ammonia at
zero, regular water changes (likely substantial in this case,
50% weekly if not more often than that) will be essential to keep nitrate
sensible, ideally below 20 mg/l and certainly no higher than 40 mg/l. Hope this
Hi I need help with my res turtle
<Hiya, Darrel here>
I have three baby RES turtles I bought online over a year ago.
They eat once a day but recently one of them got swollen eyes and bobs
it's head back and forth constantly? Is he ok?
<NO! He's got a Vitamin A deficiency>
What do I do?
Also at night it makes a squeaking sound
<and possibly a respiratory condition>
The other turtle, without my noticing, got fat and now the crease In the
bottom of its shell looks like it's splitting open. Is this normal?
<No. That sounds like obesity and just like a Vitamin deficiency is a
sign of poor nutrition>
<Read here about how to treat them:
both their conditions sound advanced, so this may be a long road to
<After that, read here about proper conditions and proper diet:
Hello Mr. F,
How are you? The time has come for me to ask for your help again: I have
a Centropyge Loricula in qt for 5 weeks togheder with 2 Carpenter's
The Loricula has developed after some time Crypt spots, very small and
disappear every morning.
<Mmm; I'll respond here: I would not treat it>
It is eating great and in great shape. The Carpenters are spotless. I
know I have Crypt in my system, even if it is not visible anymore on any
fish ( including Acanthuridae and other sensitive fishes) so that's why
I make such long qt to acclimate the new fishes to this. My question:
should I give
this fish a fw and Methylene bath and place it in DT?
<I would not>
Or there is the danger to introduce a new strain of Crypt that my fishes
are not used to?
Because there is no way to know if this fish came with a crypt or got in
in my qt where I use water from DT .
I really would not want to expose it to strong medicines and it has been
for a long time in qt and as I told you is fine.
Also, attached a small photo of my DT just do you make an idea, it is
all thank to you and your beautiful site.
Thank you again , from Romania
<Welcome my friend. BobF, now visiting in Bali>
re: Loricula quarantine 9/17/14
Thank you for your answer Mr. F,
Maybe I fail to understand your advice, but it seems that you say that
you would not treat the fish in qt, but also not place it in DT because
it may bring an new strain of Crypt to the fish population that is
stable and vibrant for months now.
What is the alternative then?
<To not treat with medication in qt, but to try to boost immunity there
And what about the other fishes in qt ( 2 carpenter's wrasse ).
<Leave them there for the duration as well; lest the "ongoing" Crypt be
transferred to the main display>
Thank you again,
Re: Chipped rimless new tank 100g cube 9/16/14
The crack is in between the glass on the bottom it is not in a place where it
could be touched...
I was just worried about the silicone seam.. that is where the crack is and it
has broken the seam half way threw... should I attempt to get broken glass out
<No; I would not>
Or should I just put a
thin layer over the bottom to fill it in.... ty for your response and how quick
<Welcome... and surprisingly, am out dive/visiting in Bali currently.
re: Chipped rimless new tank 100g cube 9/16/14
Wow that's great to hear takes a lot of weight off my shoulders knowing it
should be ok... wow I wish I was diving in Bali that sounds awesome. ..
Enjoy your time there thanks agine for your quick response
<Certainly welcome. Bob Fenner>
> So... what you shooting with these days?
<The ten year olde or so d700 (Nikon) and nice, but many buttons
non-functional Aquatica hsg. Am out in Bali at the UWMP, and folks have
INSANE amounts of money in their rigs... swing over diopters (mine kind
of threads onto the outside of the port...>
I've already got my eyes on the 4k gopro...
<Oh! I did finally get one of these... the black something... shot some
minute or so of Jack in Coz earlier this year... there's an old
clip/snap it bead on the Aquatica hsg. to take it along with>
you still able to get good shots with the old 105?
<The lens? Sort of. Am given to understand that there's some sort of
"tuning" one can have done to match lenses to cameras nowayears... but
am fine w/ what I have currently. Like you and I chatted re years
back... there're folks who chase the later/greater computer gear et
al... am still not one of these>
What digital bodies you using these days? I realize it's like chasing a
<I did buy/have a Sony RX 100 (mark II)... and sigh, two new (the olde
220s wouldn't work) 240s, optical syncs to link... and a neat Nauticam
hsg. for it... Tiff is using this; tolerating the rather steep learning
> J --
<Am enclosing a yellow-ish Hapalochalaena pic from ayer here in
Tulamben... too deep for too long. B>
Parrot fish behavior 9/16/14
I have two large parrot fish, at least 4" who are approx 8 years old.
<Oh! Freshwater... this was inadvertently placed in the marine queries
here. Even so, these fish should be much larger at this age>
They are the only fish in my 26 gallon tank.
They are eating very well and generally appear happy and healthy ( they
lose their bright orange color frequently but it returns) within hours.
<Yes; water quality (worsening) issues... Metabolite build-up...
polluted by their own wastes. Also accounts for their being "bonsai'ed"
here. Need to change a good deal (25%) of the water at least once a
week. See WWM re maint.>
They have started a weird swimming to the top and bumping hard at the
top of the aquarium. So hard they splash water out. Should I be
concerned by this behavior?
<Yes... this is manifest of the pollution mentioned... NEED more
filtration, less nitrate (as a measure, indication)... BETTER world.
<See Neale's article re this cross on WWM. Bob Fenner>
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