Please visit our Sponsors
Daily Questions & Answers (FAQs)

All "framed" images are linked to desktop sizes.

We ask that, before submitting a question, you refer to...
Tips on Asking Questions, Ask the WWM Crew a Question,
Query Corrections Referral Page, FAQs on FAQs. EDFP, TBPFAQs, SWPOTD, Last Few Days Accrued FAQs,

Subscribe to the Daily Pics

Porites lobata Dana 1846, Lobe Coral. The most common coral species in Hawai'i. Found as encrusting colonies in high wave action areas to fifteen foot high mounds in protected areas. Yellow to greenish in color. Often with grooves caused by the Snapping Shrimp Alpheus deuteropus. Fr. Polynesia 2018
Desktop size download &Link to Archived Marine Daily Pix
General FAQs. Ask us a question: Crew@WetWebMedia.com
Updated 7/21/2018
Other Specialized Daily FAQs Blogs: Freshwater,
Planted Tanks, Ponds, Brackish,
Last Few Days Accrued FAQs

Daily Q&A replies/input from the WWM crew: Wilberth Gamboa, Earl Clay III, Darrel Barton,
Neale Monks, Marco Lichtenberger, Lynn Zurik, Bob Fenner, are posted here. Moved about, re-organized daily
Current Crew Bios., Not so current Crew Bios
Scorpionfishes: Lionfishes & Much More for Marine Aquariums
Diversity, Selection & Care

New eBook on Amazon: Available here
New Print Book on Create Space: Available here

by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Turtles; WWM Help!      7/21/18
<Ave Neale>
Can I introduce Mick O’Donnell, colleague of mine as a science teacher, and experienced reptile, arachnid and insect keeper. He’s a former entomologist and has a much more illustrious scientific background than me! He’s offering to help us out with turtle queries. Is he the first Australian national to join the WWM Crew?
<I do believe/think so>
Mick, could I ask you to send a brief biography — if you are happy to share — that Bob can add to the WWM Crew page in due course?
<Yes; please>
Mick, Bob will send along instructions on how we access the email and format our replies. It’s all very simple indeed — and I find very rewarding nonetheless!
Cheers to the both of you,
<Mick, the URL of our/WWM webmail is:
The Login name:
The Password:
Some conventions we use in responding: http://wetwebmedia.com/WWMAdminSubWebIndex/crewsupwebmail.htm
I thank you for your help/helping others through this tool.
Bob Fenner>

Herps help      7/20/18
Neale, howsit?
Would you take a look/see at Darrel's in-box, the turt f' on our webmail...
See if you can reply to any of these queries? I don't know enough re.

Yellow-belly aqua terrapin      7/20/18
<Hello Maria,>
Sorry to bother you.
<Not a problem.>
I found your site after searching on Google and I would like to ask you a question about my terrapin if possible.
<Sure thing.>
The problem is she cannot swim anymore, she cannot stand the water not for a minute and she is always basking. (temperature is right). It is not a respiratory problem either no fluid or anything wrong found in her lungs because I took her to a vet specialist and he took an w-x-ray and he told me that this is not the problem. he run some blood tests in order to see if it is an infection or something and i will have the results this coming Monday-Tuesday, he also gave her some liquid antibiotics for a week (she started them 2 days ago- i don't think they really help but let's hope so).
<Right. Now, when terrapins struggle to swim, it's often a build-up of fluid inside their lungs. Respiratory tract infections may be difficult to diagnose, but often the sick turtle will have a runny nose, may wheeze when it breathes, and may be lethargic and disinterested in food. The fact your vet ruled this out is positive, but I'd still keep an open mind, especially if you see some of the other symptoms mentioned. Other reasons for problems with swimming include constipation, egg-binding, and possibly some type of
neurological problem or bone injury.>
By this time what should I do? She likes to sit on the floor all day, dry and the only time she gets in the water is when I put her in my bath tub, put a very small quantity of water and feed her. she is still eating but with great difficulty due to the small amount of water but I can't put more because she is panicking and freaking out.
<Terrapins don't "need" to swim as such, provided they have periodic baths and access to drinking water. Of course it isn't normal for them to avoid swimming! But once they're happy and healthy, they will swim. So rather than forcing a terrapin to swim, it's a good idea to try and establish why it isn't swimming. It might be a health issue, or it might be an environmental issue. If there's another terrapin (such as a larger male) it might avoid going into the water at the same time. If the water is too cold, it will stay on land under the heat lamp. Conversely, if the water is too warm (perhaps you're using an under tank heater or a glass aquarium heater) it won't go into the water either. Focus on the terrapin and its happiness, and when it's ready, it'll go into the water.>
I wanted to tell you that for a very long period of time I've been giving her dry pellets to eat (i don't thing they are Koi pellets) - I will try to buy these next time, and a large quantity of different fruits and vegs. it
seems from what i have read that i wasn't doing well?
<Opinion is divided on products like ReptoMin. Most people think they're a good staple food, but some turtle-keepers think they're expensive for what they are, and substitute Koi pellets. Others prefer a diet based on fresh greens, such as Pondweed (Elodea spp.), with dried foods used only sparingly, if at all. Either way, you aren't likely to be doing any harm with ReptoMin, but you probably should add at least some fresh greens now and again. Fresh greens helps provide fibre, which prevents constipation.>
fruits are full of sugars and she must not eat them but very rarely? once a month ?
<Something like that. While terrapins will certainly eat fruits, they're a now-and-again thing, maybe once every couple weeks.>
Can you tell me if this is maybe the reason of her bad buoyancy in the water and maybe she has internal bacterial infection that can cause gas bubbles in the abdomen?
<It would seem unlikely. Assuming a diet based mostly on ReptoMin (or some similar, turtle-food product) with occasional fruits, your terrapin should be perfectly healthy. A little constipated perhaps! But ReptoMin has calcium and phosphorus, so its bones should be fine, and the fruits should provide a top-up of vitamins as well.>
If that's the case the blood tests would be able to show it?
<Hard to say; your vet will be able to advise here. But personally, I'd review diet, review the environment, finish the antibiotics as prescribed by the vet, and then see what happens.>
Thank you so much for an answer. I really appreciate it. My terrapin is 15 years old. I've had her since she was a baby.
<15 years isn't bad! So clearly you must be doing something right. Good luck, Neale.>

Metal Halide to LED      7/20/18
Hi! Just wondering if you can point me in the right direction…I have been running 3 250 watt halides (14000k) over my reef for about 12 years and am thinking of switching 1 of them over to an LED just to see if I would prefer the change…less heat…lower cost to run…with all the options out there can you give me advice as to what I would need from an LED to replace the 250 watt Hamilton's I am running now? Which brand should I be looking at? How many watts?
Thank you,
<I hear you re saving costs of operation by switching from MH to LED technology. There are some "general rules of thumb" re LED application. Rather than elaborating re all possibilities, would like to narrow down the response here by asking 1) how deep your system is... the water depth to the photosynthetic life, and 2) what sorts of photosynthates you have, intend to have. I'll assume you're shooting for moderate growth, color.
Bob Fenner>
Re: Metal Halide to LED      7/20/18

The system is 2 feet deep X 2 feet wide X 6 feet long…have mostly soft corals, a couple of crocea clams, and some LPS.
<Mmm; okay... well; do make sure to investigate means for directing, concentrating the LED light (reflectors, lenses)... Depending on the make/model of fixture/s employed, you're likely looking at 3-5 watts per gallon here. Fixtures are variously reviewed on WWM. On the lower cost end ZooMed and Current USA are faves of mine; higher end include Current USA Pro line, Koval, Orphek and several others. None are going to appear as bright as your MHs... and you will need to photo-acclimate your livestock to the new lighting. See WWM re this process: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PhotoAcclimGasta.htm
Bob Fenner>
Re: Metal Halide to LED      7/20/18

Very Helpful!!! Thank you Bob!
<Welcome! Do write back w/ your decisions, input. BobF>

Gill-worm / flukes      7/20/18
Hello Bob,
<Hey Bran>
We are having an outbreak of what I believe is flukes. (transparent colorless flatworms falls of fish in FW bath). We have put fish through 10 minute fresh water dip, and many fell off however problem still occurs and we are losing fish. We have got Prazi based medicine for gill worms by Sera called Tremazol. Supposedly medicine is safe for biofilter. Manufacturer advises to do 80% water change after 6 hour treatment.
<Okay; have you used it?>
Since our system is infested and worms matured, my question is regarding parasites lifecycle and what would your suggestion be for treatment?
<Per the instructions on the packet>
How long should we keep medicine in the system in order to kill off parasite/eggs?
<Likely has to be reapplied>
I'm totally clueless about worms since we never had this issue before, FW dip usually takes care of this on the import.
<Yes... though I'd add a modicum of formalin to your pH adjusted freshwater  dips/baths. Please see WWM re: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dips_baths.htm
We have a very strong bio filter, and system is fish only quarantine system, I assume water change is advised to remove dead worms/flukes in order to avoid having ammonia issue due to all dead worms.
<IF there is a bunch, a good deal of dead biota/mass, yes>
Which I believe wont be the case in our system due to powerful bio filter.
<Ah, good>
Kind regards,
<And you, Bob Fenner>

Balanophyllia hiding       7/19/18
Hi Crew!
<Hi Dani>
I rebooted my tank about 4 months ago, kept most liverock, rinsed sand bed, added some new rock, and slowly restocked corals.
I picked up a Balanophyllia which was opened at the store with their daylights on. I acclimated it for about 3 hours, dripped acclimated, bathed in revive, and placed mid-low level with mid-low flow.
It neither ate for almost a week nor extended any tentacles. I tried pellets, Mysis, and a slurry of zooplankton even—nothing. It seemed to actually slime off the food. So I tried a larger food like krill and shredded a piece, and laid it on the balano. The first time it slowly—over like 20 minutes—but definitely ate it.
<Try foods like live or defrosted brine shrimp, Mysis shrimp, and other similar sized prey. Soaking the food in a vitamin supplement can help to ensure your coral gets plenty of nutrients; you need to feed it at least once a day, if needed use a turkey baster to target the food directly on the Balano without touching it or it may not open/eat, turn off your pumps several minutes during feeding so the food does not go elsewhere. >
So everyday I have been carefully feeding it the shredded piece of krill. Seems to get a tiny bit faster eating each day. It pops like one tiny tentacle out now at random times but that’s it. Do you think it is still settling in or should I be concerned?
<As long as it is not bleaching out, you are fine here, do bear in mind this is a difficult species to keep in captivity, it is not photosynthetic, so, as stated it needs to be fed regularly.>
Tank is a JBJ 28,
LED 89w par intensity up to 700
2 returns @ 266 gal each
1k icecap gyre at 80% power (800 gph set at random mode, alternating flow, and pulse [this thing is fantastic])
SG 1.025
Am 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate <5
Alk 12
Calcium 460
Mag 1440
I feed tank everyday except water change day—2 days frozen fish eggs/Mysis and a dose of zooplankton, the rest of the days pellets, and finally balano gets it’s piece of krill.
I do a 25% water change weekly.
<A 10% water change weekly will be enough, less stressful and will replenish needed additives and trace elements.>
My sandbed seems to get dirty though even with my Nassarius snails going through it so sticking to weekly at the moment. Hoping it may stabilize where I can do biweekly one day, want to ensure my sps and lps get more of a chance to absorb some food from water column.
Thank you for any feedback!
<You are welcome. Wilberth>

Re: crazing question     7/18/18
Thanks for the response. I read through the stuff on tank stands.
I realized my initial email wasn't very clear. The tank is on the garage floor right now, no stand. I will build one at some point and ensure that it's level in all directions.
You state that you are "concerned" about some of the crazing. What I'm wondering is whether I should set up this tank as it is or whether it's junk.
<Oh! I wasn't clear.. I WOULD use this tank. The crazing you show is not major. Your fab pic showing the depth of the cracking indicates this tank is fine for use>
Any significant chance it's going to "pop" at some point?
<Not likely, esp. IF placed on a suitable stand, surface>
Any way to find out ahead of time? I think the acrylic is 5/8 or 3/4, which I thought was enough for a 220, but maybe I'm mistaken?
<Mmm; no, not mistaken. For the height and length of this system this mat. thickness is fine. More thick, less bowing>
Regarding the sanding issue, there are a few scratches on the top panel where I have not been able to find any crazing, and I'm wondering whether I can safely sand that to get these (minor) scratches out.
<You can, could... Mmm; there are two other techniques to consider, look into. One involves "wafting" a wing tip burner of burning gas along the crazed area; another gingerly dripping low viscosity solvent (like Weldon 16) onto the area. DO PLEASE visit, get input from an acrylic fabricator re all three ahead of actually doing this job. NOT hard to do any listed, but easy to make mistakes>
Thanks again,
<As welcome. Bob Fenner>

Re: Id if possible.     7/18/18
Hi Wet Web Media Crew/Wilberth
<Hi Adam,>
Is there any chance that was eggs as 4 days after going into the aquarium the object has disappeared. <?>
<Could be; and if these are indeed eggs of some kind, you´ll find out on the future, there’s a possibility that this is a species of sea squirt in its reproductive stage.>
It was attached to a coco worm, which was very slowly acclimatised and my system runs near sea water parameters for western Australia which is where a lot of coral is collected from Australia.
<Greetings. Wilberth>
Adam Smith

Blenny compatibility     7/18/18
Hi Crew!
<Morning, Earl C. here.>
Simple question today, I know that some conspecifics shouldn’t be housed together but is a Tailspot and a fang blenny an exception? I have a 28 gallon with a Tailspot but always liked fang blennies too—lots of personality.
<I agree that blennies in general are interesting customers and underrated (in my opinion). You answered your own question here though. I would not risk this, certainly not in a tank of that size. In a larger tank (say 75g and up) I'd think about it particularly if one had not already settled in too much. In a 28 gallon, I definitely cannot advise it.>
I tried to look up compatibility but not much info available. I’m not sure they look different enough and would be open to being in different parts of rockwork or if it just wouldn’t work out and hence the lack of info. Hope you all are having an awesome week!
<You are thinking along the right lines (territory/rockwork/tank size) but there are too many other choices out there to risk the kind of "fish drama" you'll probably get.>
<Hope this help! -EC>

Re: Unexpected Dilemmas... (RMF, your input requested)     7/18/18
I changed the whole aquarium volume of water over the last few days, and the fish are eating normally again, with the exception of the blue acara.
I have tried giving her the medicated Metronidazole food, but she sucks it up and chews on it for a few seconds before spitting it back out. She does the same for normal food as well...what could cause this?
The loach’s wound has been healing and his eyes haven’t gotten worse but I am concerned he might have fin rot on his tail now.
I’m not sure whether there is any other medication I should put in the water for the loach and acara, given how the Nitrofurazone put all the fish off feed for a while. I don’t want to risk poisoning the healthy fish.
Last week 90% of the water was changed and the undergravel filter was cleaned, so I doubt water quality is an issue at the moment.
P.S. For future reference what sort of fish can tolerate rough substrates well? I did not know this would be an issue with the weather loaches when I got them many many years ago...
<I'd cease medicating this system; only do 25 % water changes at any given time; add carbon filtration for now and rely on good conditions to effect a cure. Bob Fenner>

Mailbox size limit exceeded <Yeah>    7/17/18
The size limit of 50 MB for mailbox 'crew@wetwebmedia.com' has been
exceeded. Incoming mail is currently being rejected.

Re: High phosphates wither sharks    7/17/18
I will try Phosguard thanks for your assistance.
<Let me know how it goes. Wilberth>

Re: Facial growth/white stringy stuff on Betta    7/17/18
Hi Bob,
<Hey Deja>
I have attached a photo of the test strip guide so you can see what I mean when I say '0' for Nitrate. Basically, that bit of the test strip wasn't turning colors at all. It was staying white.
<Mmm; yeah. These colorimetric assay strips can be inaccurate and imprecise. I encourage you to "check the checker"... Likely a tropical fish store will check your water with other gear; ascertain NO3 differently here. Established systems almost always have increasing Nitrate presence>
It turned light pink yesterday. Most of the other tests were pretty similar to how they have been this whole time, though Alkalinity was around 80-120, which the test strip guide says is 'ideal'.
<Is fine>
This morning when I looked at Buddy, I noticed two white spots on his tail that weren't there last night. I have attached some photos of that as well.
It also looks like that bump on his face is still growing. It's the same color as his scales except the top is white. His behavior still seems normal for the most part.
The Bacterial Infection remedy I got (Imagitarium Bacterial Infection Remedy)
<Umm; am not a fan of "alternative, natural remedies".... They're not effective by and large. PLEASE see WWM re Betta health, treatments. Too much for me to go over here. I would NOT be medicating this fish, system period.>
instructs to use it every other day for 3 treatments. I did the last treatment yesterday, so I'm not sure what the next step should be. I appreciate any advice!
The new tank is supposed to be delivered today, so barring any damage from shipping hopefully I'll be able to get Buddy moved into it by the end of the week (I still need to get a heater, more gravel, and some live aquarium plants).
Thanks, Deja
<Am sure all will be fine w/ the move to the better world. Bob Fenner>

Re: crazing question    7/17/18
Oops! Sorry about that. Resized photos attached.
<Ah, thank you. We lose queries when we exceed 50 megs....>
In addition to the questions in my first email, the top panel looks good except for a few scratches. Is it ok to sand the top panel to remove?
<Mmm; I would NOT sand any crazing on any tank, system... as this will weaken the tank. I am concerned re the pix that show crazing extending from one panel of the tank onto the adjoining bonded panel... other than too thin material for the application, this indicates that the tank is not level, planar... that the stand the tank is set on itself is not level, planar. I would take this tank down, check the stand for such, use a piece of foam between it and the tank. Please read here re:
and the links above as much as you can, it takes to understand your situation>
<Certainly welcome. Bob Fenner>

Help Needed for Ick and Water Leak    7/17/18
I inherited a 65 gallon tank from my autistic brother after he passed, my mother maintained it for several years with him and then on her own upon his passing, she moved and is upgrading etc. so I have some knowledge and advice from my Mom who has been at it awhile but am new to the hobby.
I started with dry live rock and cured it for 6 weeks. Added it to the tank with sand and a scoop of my Mom's live sand and one of her live rocks algae and cycled the tank. I then began slowly introducing fish over the next 2 months, I added an ocellaris clown fish, royal Gramma, and a yellow tang. I did not quarantine...lesson learned so please go easy on me.
<Sure. Commonality>
After a month of introducing the tang he developed sandpaper like bumps all over his body (literally looked like a sheet of sand paper under his skin), though none were white, he was still eating but swimming jittery like he was itchy, that night he scratched himself pretty badly on the rocks. The royal Gramma had two white dots on her head and was observed scratching her head in the sand.
<Likely trematodes... maybe Paravortex>
I sought treatment for what I was told was Ick.
Using Focus and Metroplex as instructed I fed it to the fish. I also added 6 scoops to the tank as the package instructed and removed the carbon from my filter. The snails and crabs I moved to a 10 gallon quarantine tanks while I treated the fish (should have set it up sooner to introduce fish I know). The tang started looking less bumpy in a couple of days, his scrapes from the rocks started healing and he was swimming better but many of the dots turned white. The Gramma continued having white dots and scratching in the sand. After a week of treatment the clown (who had no spots or symptoms) suddenly started acting off, swimming erratically in odd places and swimming into the jet (not like her) and then by the next morning was hiding under a rock (not like her) and died within hours.
<Effects of the medication>
The royal Gramma did not eat that day and was found dead that evening. The tang ate that day but the next day stopped eating and his fins had started to look very frayed. Within a day he died as well.
65 Gallon tank Parameters=salinity 1.024, Temp 80, phosphates 0, Nitrates 5, and ammonia 0Have a penguin 350 filter and a prism skimmer. To top that off, my husband left a towel on the back of the tank after removing the dead tang for me and it wicked water all over the carpet and there was a half inch of standing water in the base of the stand.
<Ah, no bueno; though a nifty physics lesson.>
So we have now torn down the tank, to dry the carpet and stand. The rock is in a 30 gallon bin with a heater and the jet to try to keep it "live", the sand is still in the tank with some water. What next? Was this Ick?
How should I handle the sand and rocks if so, to rid the tank of Ick and get started again?
<Mmm; you could "nuke" (bleach) all. See WWM re>
I've read lower salinity to 1.01 and raise the heat to 90. I honestly am so depressed about all that's happened this week I can't do anymore research.
<Just leave it all dry for now; or refill with just freshwater. We can talk in a few weeks>
I just need to know how to proceed from here as I don't want my live rock to die off etc. I know it will be awhile before I can add fish. Will in need to recycle the tank?
<Yes; to a degree>
( I will be quarantining fish for at least 6 weeks for sure in the future, but what about dips etc. first I have always drip acclimated them.)
Any advice you have is welcome, but again it has been an emotional week and I am looking for advice and have learned to quarantine fish first so go easy on me. (Sorry for the length.)
<No worries Kris. When, where in doubt, do nothing, or as little as possible/practical. All will become clearer in a short while. Bob Fenner>

Note: Our mail system crashed due to folks sending more than our allowed storage of 50 megs of image files;
Please re-size and re-send your mail if you didn't receive a response the last day or so. RMF

Black Spot disease after long power outage      7/16/18
<We ask that query attachments be kept to hundreds of Kbytes; yours are 14 megs...>
Good Afternoon team, hope you are well. Sorry for this very long message.
Your input is much appreciated. Tank set up and parameters: Red sea reefer 350, skimmer Bubble Magus Curve 5, 2 x250 watt heaters, wave maker. FOWLR system with live rock (25kg), flame angel (1.5 inch) 2 x da Vinci clownfish (1 inch) and a vampire tang (3 inches), 3 hermit crabs, 2 cleaner shrimp, 1 fire shrimp, 1 snail, free critters on live rock, temp usually around 24 degrees Celsius, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 15. Salinity went up over outage as I forgot to add RO for about 5 days, its 1.028 today and just
brought it down to 1.026 over the course of 4 hours. Tank has been running for about a year. Last fish added in January 2018. We are in the middle of a week long power outage (entire substation burnt down due to a fire. I live in South Africa and its currently winter which makes it worse in terms of keeping the temperature correct during an outage. After power went out last Tuesday my tank temp dropped to 18 degrees Celsius and then to 17 on Wednesday. Lights, skimmer and pump was off for 2 days. I ran 4 bubble makers on batteries during the outage to create water movement. I managed to connect a generator to the tank on Thursday (day 2 .5 of outage).
Skimmer, heater, pump and lights on generator. From Thursday the temp was increased to 19 on the first day then 21 and 23 on the second and third days trying not to shock my fish with large changes in temp. Fish were very stressed during power out and also first day or two after lights came on.
Snail looks a bit weird not sticking to glass and falling over, but still alive. Moved snail to the top of wave maker, looks happy and stick to wave maker. My tang appeared to be dead when I first switched lights on after 2.5 days, but apparently just hiding, turned herself black and almost didn't breathe, started to peek out from her cave after 30 minutes. Because I can only run the generator during the day the tank then loses about 1 degree Celsius over night. (Need to watch the generator and it might get stolen over night)
At night I connect battery operated bubble makers for oxygen and water movement. Only fed the tank on day 2.5, 2-3 hours after generator was switched on and fish seemed to be normal and not as stressed out anymore. Im feeding as normal now and fishes are hungry, not sure exactly how much would constitute overfeeding?
<Beyond taking foods, too fat to move...>
Would live rock filtration be stressed as well?
<Yes; with change, rate of change>
My marine tank appeared to have survived the outage without any negative effects until this morning that I noticed black spots on my tang. Please see pic attached, I suspect my vampire (Lieutenant) tang
has black spot disease, dull black spots over the body, a few clear black ones as well. Also a few Transparent spots on fins, she had some of this when I got her from the LFS but this went away after quarantine. I would appreciate if you could share your thoughts. All other fish difficult to tell if they have it, flame has 2 black spots on fins but this does not look like the same disease as tang and he/she is not scratching. One of the clowns might have one spot on his forehead. After a stress event like the power outage, I think my tang (and other fish ) will be more stressed if I try to catch it to treat it in qt?
Tang swims like normal, looks very happy in display and eats a lot as usual. Appears healthy breathing normally etc. all other fish are acting normal, my clowns are eating a bit less than usual but their appetite is picking up over last 2 days since I've upped the temp. I have seachem Metroplex which I added to their food today in two feedings. Tang ate the first feeding with Metroplex but started to spit out the second. Other fishes ate 1 - 2 flakes of this each. Not sure if I should continue with medication or rather add this to the water, it says it is reef safe.
<I'd hold off on further treatments for now>
I am working to correct my water parameters after realizing its not correct today. I have performed a water change 10% and reduced salinity to 1.026. I also read that hyposalinity could help with black spot so I am planning to keep reducing salinity slowly to 1.020 over the next 3 days and then keep it there for the next 6 weeks. Not sure if I should continue to raise temp? If yes to how much would be ideal. Im concerned about amount of oxygen in high temps, perhaps some guidance how this affects the fish and the disease/parasites? My LFS suggested a temp of 28 degrees Celsius, but I read contrary info that this would speed up the disease progression in the fish’s system as well. Trying to keep the temp constant on 23 degrees Celsius now. I am currently feeding ocean nutrition formula 2 and brine flakes, my fish loves the brine shrimp plus flakes. I usually feed frozen food as well but all went bad with power outage. My
cleaner shrimps are all over my tang to clean him, not sure if this helps.
He is parked in the cleaning station every 30 minutes. Only weird behaviour was that tang started scratching himself in a different way than usual yesterday(my tang usually scratches his side once or twice a week that I see on the gravel, never had any spots that I could see) as from yesterday the tang flips more than 180 degrees to scratch, this afternoon scratching seems less, more cleaning activity. I would really appreciate your input on how to Treat the potential black spot for the tang and others if applicable. I am hoping that our electricity is restored today at midnight as I will then have permanent heating, skimming, pump on in the fish tank.
Kind regards,
<The spots may be "nothing"; simply environmental stress; could be Paravortex (see WWM Re); but in any, all cases, doubtful this is a dangerous parasitic situation. Do your best to maintain optimized conditions for now. Bob Fenner>

Black Spot disease after long power outage      7/16/18
Hi Rob,
Thank you for getting back to me so quickly!
Black spots are fading fast, this morning barely visible, so your thinking it being stress related was spot on.
This morning noticed that my tang also have 3 distinct salt grain look alike spots on fins that wasn't there last night. Looks like white spot disease.
<Again; doubtful this is pathogenic; a disease due to a biological agent>
Tang is still looking healthy and eating. Breathing is normal. Other fishes not affected
Salinity now on 1.025 and nitrate 10. Still battling the power outage, water temps now on 23 during the day (with generator) and drops to 21 overnight.
<No fun for all>
Would you recommend any treatment? What would you suggest at this moment?
Lowering salinity a bit? Temperature higher?
<None of the above>
Or nothing and just monitoring
the situation.
<The latter only>
Thank you & Kind Regards,
<Cheers, Bob Fenner>

High phosphates wither sharks      7/16/18
I have a 550 gallon salt water fish only tank. I two sharks approximately 2 feet long , epaulets and coral cat. I have been able to control the nitrates but not the phosphates, it us off the chart.
<Please tell me more about your tank equipment, other tank mates and maintenance practices.>
I am looking into hooking up a reactor with Phosguard but have read that some phosphate removers are not good with sharks. I was making sure Phosguard is okay to use with them.
<Phosphates are very hard to keep at low levels in Elasmobranch systems because of their feeding habits(amount and frequency). Fortunately high phosphate levels are tolerated by must shark species and YES, phosphate removers are toxic for them because of its ferric oxide composition which affects their electroreceptive system, I suggest you to use a deep sand bed refugium with algae(Chaeto/Caulerpa sp.) to keep phosphates in check; do frequent water changes and use a high quality skimmer rated to your tank gallon capacity to export nutrients before they break down.
Thank you
<You`re welcome. Wilberth>

Chocolate chip starfish      7/16/18
I have a chocolate chip starfish which I purchased July 10. He ate some raw shrimp the next couple of days.
I tried feeding him today and yesterday, but he would not take the food. I has a fifty five gallon tank been set up cycling for six to seven weeks with no fish in tank. When tank finished cycling, I purchased him and a Dottie back and a lawnmower blenny. All water parameters was tested and checked out good. I have current in tank.
I wonder is the current in tank bothering him. Other animals doing fine.
What am I doing wrong?
<Ah mate....>
First time having a starfish. Thanks for your help.
<Do read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/chocchipstars.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Re: Herps help      7/15/18
Hi Bob,
<Sir Neale>
One person. Have written. Will see if he responds. A retired teacher and before that mosquito scientist. A decent chap. But might not be his cup of tea.
Cheers, Neale
<I'll hope he's willing, able to join us. Cheers, B>

Can't get enough of that funky WWM stuff?
Link to: Last Few Days Accrued FAQs

Marine Aquarium Articles and FAQs Master Index

  • Set-Up 1: Types of Systems:, Gear/Components:, Set-Up, Tanks, Stands, Covers:, Water, Seawater, Substrates, DSBs, Electricity, Heating/Chilling, Aquascaping, Biotopes, Travelogues.
  • Set-Up 2: Filtration of All Sorts, Skimmers, Sumps, Refugiums, Plumbing, Circulation, Pumps, Powerheads, Aeration & Light/Lighting:.
  • About Livestock: Regional Accounts:, Collection, Selection:, Stocking:, Disease Prevention: Dips/Baths, Acclimation, Quarantine, Behavior:, Territoriality:, Reproduction:
  • Non-Vertebrate Sea Life Identification, & Microbes, Algae, Plants, Live Rock & Sand, Sponges: Hitchhikers, IDs, Marine Microbes, Plankton, Live Rock & Sand, Marine Algae, Marine Plants, Sponges, phylum Porifera,
  • Cnidarians I. Corals to Hobbyists, Stinging-Celled Animals 1: Cnidarians Overall; Hydrozoans: Jellies, Hydroids, Anthozoans; Octocorals: Organ Pipe, Blue Coral, Star Polyps, Sea Fans, Sea Pens and Soft Corals
  • Cnidarians II. Corals to Hobbyists, Stinging-Celled Animals 2: Anthozoans; Hexacorals: Mushrooms, Zoanthids, Anemones, Stony Corals, Tube Anemones, Black Corals
  • Higher Invertebrate Life: Bryozoans, Worms of all kinds, Mollusks (Snails, Nudibranchs, Octopodes), Crustaceans (Crabs, Shrimp, Lobsters...), Echinoderms (Urchins, Sea Cucumbers, Seastars, Brittlestars...), Sea Squirts,
  • Fishes, Index 1: Sharks, Rays, Skates; Marine Eels; Marine Catfishes; Squirrelfishes, Soldierfishes, Lionfishes, Stonefishes, Gurnards, Sculpins; Anglerfishes, Seahorses & Pipefishes, Blennioid & Gobioid Fishes, Mandarins, Clingfishes, Wrasses and Parrotfishes,
  • Fishes, Index 2: Butterflyfishes, Cardinalfishes, Grammas, Grunts, Sweetlips, Snappers, Goatfishes, Jawfishes, Big-Eyes, Basses, Anthias, Dottybacks, Roundheads, Soapfishes, Damselfishes, Clownfishes, Monos, Hawkfishes, Croakers, Emperors, Threadfins, Sandperches, Miscellaneous Percoids,
  • Fishes Plus, Index 3: Marine Angelfishes, Tangs/Surgeons/Doctorfishes, Scats, Batfishes, Rabbitfishes; Triggers, Files, Puffers, Flounders, Halibuts, Soles, Really Old Fishes, Marine Reptiles, Marine Mammals,
  • Maintenance/Operation: General Maintenance, Vacations, Moving, Water Quality: Tests/Testing, Aquarium Repairs, Biominerals, Supplementation, Marine Scavengers, Algae ID & Control, Foods/Feeding/Nutrition,
  • Diseases: Identification, Avoidance, Causes, Organisms, Treatments & Pests: Acclimation, Quarantine, Dips/Baths; Disease: Prevention, Identification, Treatment, Pests/Control, Aquariums and Human Health, Chemicals of Use/Dis- and Mis-use, Pest Flatworm/Anemones/Worms... & Their Control,
  • Marine Topics: Media Reviews:, Books:, References, Sources, Writing, Diving, Travel Adventure, Photography, Videography, Sources of Mortality on the Worlds Reefs, Schooling, Public Aquariums,

Site Navigation-The navigation through the site is designed to allow you to go through the pages following the blue links to get to the information you seek.

Become a Sponsor Features:
Daily FAQs FW Daily FAQs SW Pix of the Day FW Pix of the Day New On WWM
Helpful Links Hobbyist Forum Calendars Admin Index Cover Images
Featured Sponsors: