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Heteractis magnifica (Quoy & Gaimard 1833), the Magnificent Sea Anemone. Family Stichodactylidae. Found in open areas, attached to a solid object. Base of solid purple, blue, green, red, white or brown color. Oral disc flat with barely tapering, finger-like tentacles up to a meter across. S. Leyte 2013Desktop size download &Link to Archived Marine Daily Pix
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Raising eggs of dwarf African aquatic frogs      11/25/15
Hello there!
<Hello Sheena,>
I have a pair of frogs who seem to be doing great. They always mate after I have done a water change. For the first time that I have seen, some eggs were produced! I noticed one yesterday, attached to the 'moss ball'.
I quickly took an old beta container that my beta
<Betta, rhymes with "better", not "beater".>
had come from the store in, and filled it with water right from the tank.
In went the moss ball and egg. In went 2 pellets of ZooMed brand; Aquatic frog & tadpole food.
It has been sitting under a lamp since 9:30 last evening, maintaining a temperature of 78-80. This morning I am noticing a lot of squirming going on inside that egg, and a definite form of a tadpole! Wow, that thing is super tiny!
So, upon further investigation, I found another egg in my frog tank! Into the incubation tank it went as well. But, do they lay eggs in batches or singular? Do they lay eggs multiple days in a row?
<Usually singly or in small groups. Not the big clumps we associated with many pond-dwelling frogs in the temperate zone. When they hatch you'll be presented with tiny tadpoles that need very small live foods (infusoria) or, with luck, egg-layer fish foods (Liquifry for example). Do note these pollute the tank quickly, and you need to feed "often but in small amounts"
as with baby fish, 4-6 meals per day, removing uneaten food, and keeping water quality good. Very challenging without proper filtration!>
I do not have a filter system, or a heater in my frog tank.
<Really does need warmth at least, and some gentle filtration (air powered sponge for example) will be essential unless you're doing daily water changes. Let me direct you to some reading to save me typing everything out again:
Various links at top, including for care and reproduction.>
I change the tank once a month. This involves removing approx. 1-1 1/2 cups of water (in which my frogs are housed).
<Doesn't sound enough to me.>
I then dump all water, vigorously rub the inside out of the tanks walls clean with my hands, rinse the gravel several times, and then refill tank with tap water which to touch is slightly warmer than the water with the frogs.
<Please do read the above linked articles.>
In goes a teaspoon or so of Betta bowl plus water conditioner, the frogs and old water. So far everything has been great, and the frogs seem happy and healthy. But do I need to be stricter with the incubation bowls water changes?
<Yes; do read some more. This approach won't work indefinitely. These are tropical animals and need appropriate care. Unfortunately they're often sold in the same way as Bettas, as being viable pets for unheated, unfiltered bowls. They aren't, any more than Bettas are, and both will die sooner rather than later when kept in unfiltered, room-temperature water of too-small volume. Cheers, Neale.>

Commercial Quarantine      11/25/15
I am the Manager of Operations at a public facility. We have 5 440G salt water display tanks.
<440 gallon? I take it these are sub-divided sub-systems>
We have an outside aquarist the we employ on a part time basis. That is to say that I am not the expert but I am not sure I trust our aquarist completely.
<Mmm; still better that all are knowledgeable>
I am trying to educate myself and eventually bring all of our aquarium care in house.
Your site has been a great resource. I am trying to design a large Quarantine tank rack and would like your thoughts. We get 75% of our aquarium stock directly from the ocean. These fish are usually in Quarantine within hours of being in the ocean. The other 25% comes from commercial sources. We have an unlimited supply of sand filtered sea water. We currently have a 30G and a 55G Quarantine tank. We currently cannot Quarantine every new fish and treat every sick fish with that limited space. I think we need two separate and complete quarantine systems.
<The more completely separate (including, nets, specimen containers.... all else that gets wet), the better. You'll need others perhaps if you're dealing in invertebrates and macro-algae... as these need to be kept in full-concentration seawater and don't tolerate most fish medicines>
That way we could (if keeping incoming fish in Quarantine for four weeks) have fish coming out of Quarantine every two weeks. Once we are fully populated we would only need to replace fish that have outgrown our tanks or in a worse case died because of an outbreak. For each system I was going to put one 30G on top with six 10G tanks below all plumbed into a
sump with only filter media and Bio Balls in the sump.
<Okay; and bleach the filter media, the entire system between uses/shipments>
If any fish in any tank during a four week period of Quarantine shows signs of illness I thought I would plumb the ability to isolate (close off) any tank from the system and use only a air pump and a sponge filter on the tank containing the fish showing signs of illness. That individual tank could then be medically treated in isolation with daily water changes. My
issue is that if any one fish shows signs of illness would it always be necessary to treat that whole system and all the fish in that system because the water is shared in that system?
<Mmm; well; up to a very large point, ALL fishes kept in any given number of shared-water tanks will "have" shared pathogenic issues by the time any one fish seems afflicted. I'd plan on treating per sub-system (the 30 and six tens)>
In our experience incoming stock from the ocean has been mostly disease free.
<Not always I assure you>

Do you think that the best way to Quarantine that many incoming fish at one time? Bill Parker
<I do consider your plan to have merit. Providing healthy livestock is the absolute best way to grow your customer base, and assure success for your business. Bob Fenner>

Re: Infrequent Feeding for Fish.... Lg. SW stkg.       11/25/15
Yes agreed the Blue Ribbon is harder to feed than the rest. Its a matter of immense patience - feed groupers, then larger eels and finally the ribbon (only one that doesn’t eat from my hand).
Only problem now is the snowflake cannot seem to stop eating …
Will the lions/scorpions sting the Morays?
<Yes; please see WWM re... Muraenids are clumsy, have poor vision; Pteroines sit about on the bottom a great deal of the time>
thanks for advice i didn’t think they would do that unless in serious self defence.
A comet added at this point would likely see it bullied by the Variola and Polleni - but point taken on not another Scorpaenid.
Flame hawks get really cheap sometimes here - as low as USD 10.
<Crazy; diver pay for them in Fiji is US 9>
may get the largest one possible and give it a shot.
Concur with the frogfish analysis - I reckon they belong to a species tank, only success i have seen is a large Rhinopias with even larger tank mates (large morays and lions).
<Neat! BobF>

How long can res turtle live without food      11/25/15

<Days to a few weeks depending on how fit and nourished it starts; how warm the environment is....
Bob Fenner>

American Cichlid Egg Fertilization /Bob      11/25/15
I had a quick question that I couldn't seem to find online anywhere. I've got a breeding pair of Festae cichlids that I keep divided in a 135 gallon aquarium. I noticed the female laid a batch of eggs while she was divided from her mate. She either dropped them yesterday or sometime today.
I took the divider out and they are both getting along great. My question is if he would still be able to fertilize these eggs?
<They'd have to have been fertilized within seconds, a minute of being placed by the female. Could have happened even if separated>
I'm guessing fertilization would have to occur the same time the female dropped the eggs so this batch would probably not be viable. I figured you guys would be the ones to ask. What do you think?
<I'd wait and see what happens. Should know in about four days. Bob Fenner>
American Cichlid Egg Fertilization /Neale      11/25/15

I had a quick question that I couldn't seem to find online anywhere. I've got a breeding pair of Festae cichlids that I keep divided in a 135 gallon aquarium. I noticed the female laid a batch of eggs while she was divided from her mate. She either dropped them yesterday or sometime today.
I took the divider out and they are both getting along great. My question is if he would still be able to fertilize these eggs? I'm guessing fertilization would have to occur the same time the female dropped the eggs so this batch would probably not be viable. I figured you guys would be the ones to ask. What do you think?
<Probably not likely to be fertilised more than few minutes after spawning.
But placing egg crate between the two fish works, and then placing an attractive spawning rock or space nearby, so the eggs are laid close enough to the egg crate for the male to be able to cover with milt. Do see Paul Loiselle's writings on this thorny issue, e.g., in "The Cichlid Aquarium".
Good luck, Neale.>

croaker fish enquiry      11/25/15
please am from Nigeria and i want to go into croaker fish business, that why am mailing to know more about croaker fish.
<Can be cultured.... some species are; as food and game fish (often under other names; the White Seabass, Cynoscion nobilis is a croaker here in California). You need to get to a large, college library, seek the help of a reference librarian.... And/or ask in your country re "fisheries extension services" from the government. Other species (e.g. Tilapia, Oreochromis) are easier to produce. Bob Fenner>

Dwarf Rainbow sick... no data, reading....       11/25/15
<Tam: 13.5 megs of the same pix three times? WHY? And why do we limit file size?
I looked all over your site and couldn't find anything related to my situation. My Dwarf Rainbow fish is kinda bloated and whitish belly(maybe due to bloating). She is eating fine and swimming great. I am just afraid if I don't figure out what is wrong with her she will pass. I did try peas and she ate them but still bloated. I am attaching pictures so you can see, they
are not the best in clarity but I think you can see what I am seeing with the bloating.
I have had this tank up and running for 2 years with no issues. Feed them a mix of dried Thera +A, spectrum grow, brine shrimp, daphnia.
Water quality is great. I have an RO system
<What water quality values/test data do you have?>
and neutral regulator is added when doing weekly water changes to new water. I also heat water to tank temp before adding it as well.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
<READ here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/rainbowdisf.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Sincerely, Tammie


For Neale Monks; FW fish dis. diag.       11/25/15
Hi Neale,
The problem is in the 90g tank, planted, Eheim Pro II canister with heating element. Fish are 5 Botia kubotai, 14 Pethia nigrofasciata, 8 Phenacogrammus interruptus, 9 Hyphessobrycon pulchripinnis, 11 Nannostomus beckfordi, 12 Nannostomus trilineatus, and 2 Centromochlus perugiae. The last four species were added in August; the first three were in the tank since this began around July 2014.
<All sounds nice.>
The symptoms are complicated. Flashing was what started this, in the loaches only. Treatment for ich/velvet proved ineffective. I contacted an online acquaintance, Dawn Moneyhan, whose husband is a marine biologist, and I have read several of her posts in forums and thought she was fairly experienced, and she had solved a couple of problems previously for me, a couple of years back. She suggested it could be an internal protozoan, and I added Metronidazole to their food for 21 days, and the flashing disappeared. About two months later, it re-appeared, again in just the loaches, and badly; another 21 days of Metronidazole in the food again seemed to relieve it, with very occasional flashes by a loach. It returned again in 2-3 months, and this time the water became hazy with what seemed to be a bacterial bloom. Respiration became more rapid in the fish (only the loaches, barbs and Congo tetra were in the tank at this time). The Metronidazole in the food did not seem to have much effect, so I contacted Dawn.
She suggested the issue could be environmental, so first all additives for the plants were stopped. I added nothing to the tank water but API Tap Water Conditioner at water changes, for 2 months. Nothing improved. By this point the loaches were flashing badly, and showed problems with respiration; the barbs and tetra only had respiration issues, no flashing. Major water changes relieved things immediately, but they returned within a day or two. Suddenly things seemed to settle a bit; the flashing ceased, but the water was still slightly hazy, and fish respiration has calmed but still seemed above normal to me. After another four weeks, with no real improvements, I decided to go after the bacterial side of this, thinking that it might be some sort of bacterial gill issue. I did a treatment with Maracyn 2. The water cleared and remained so during the week, and flashing and respiration were not present. Within a week after treatment, it came back. I did some major water changes over a week, and the following week treated the tank with a combination of Furan 2 and KanaPlex (Kanamycin). Again, during the treatment week everything was fine (though the water discoloured from the Furan 2), but a week later it started reappearing.
I considered that if this was bacterial, and the hazy water seemed to lead in that direction, there might be something in the substrate. This tank had been running for 4.5 years. I moved the fish to my 70g (no other fish in that tank) and tore down the 90g. I should also mention that while these fish were in the 70g, the water there also became slightly cloudy after 2-3 days, though flashing did not seem evident. I tossed out the gravel substrate, all wood, and all filter media from the 90g. I used new play sand, all new filter media, and new wood. Nothing but water was used to clean the tank. The fish went back in, along with the floating plants (Water Sprite), and I used Seachem’s Stability. Ammonia and nitrite were zero daily. Everything seemed fine for about two weeks, and this was when I added the other species (this had been intended previously, I was just waiting to clear up the problem). In about three weeks, back came the haze. Respiration seemed laboured for the barbs, and they began flashing. Ironically, the loaches seem fine now, though I have seen the odd flash. The Congo Tetra have never flashed, and their respiration has been normal, until just this week. Strangely, the tank suddenly cleared over last weekend, and remained so after Sunday’s 50% water change. But the tetras (Congo and Lemon) and barbs are respirating heavier, though the barbs flashing is much less, almost gone. The pencils seem un-phased by all of this, and the loaches are near normal.
Throughout all of these months, ammonia and nitrite have always tested zero, and nitrate has remained between 0 and 5 ppm, which is normal for all my tanks. The GH is near zero (very soft tap water), and the pH in this tank remains around 6.5 and has for years. The other six tanks are fine. Temperature is 76-77F/25C.
This has certainly stumped me. I don’t know if the flashing and bacterial/respiration issues are the same issue, or two issues somehow related. It would seem as if both are caused by the fish, as opposed to some issue with the tank environment, since it occurred when they were temporarily moved to another tank and the complete tear-down did not solve it. I can understand fish carrying some pathogen or protozoan in their gills, but I don’t understand how the water gets hazy. Any suggestions you can give will be much appreciated. I’ll answer any questions the best I can.
<I wonder if the pH really is as stable as you think it is all the time. In very soft water pH stability is a big issue, and acidosis is a common cause of both flashing behaviour and unexpected deaths. Do also bear in mind that diatom blooms are characteristic of unstable pH and water chemistry situations, and easily confused with bacterial blooms. So if this was me: first thing I'd do is raise the pH gradually across a week, using a commercial buffering potion to stick it around 7. I'd also up the general hardness a bit. There's no real point to near-zero levels in most situations; 5 degrees dH would be fine for your fish collection and present less osmotic stress. I'd then see if things improved. Assuming you don't have carbon in the filter, you can probably assume that the medications used have eliminated the standard bacterial infections, and salt/heat could be used to eliminate Whitespot and Velvet, both of which can affect gills (causing flashing) without manifesting anywhere else on the fish. So that's the second thing I'd do, salt/heat alongside the raised/stabilised pH. If things still didn't improve, I'd then think about water (copper for example in the tap water, or chloramine) and try aerating volumes of water before use, alongside alternative (and better) water conditioning products. Perhaps the use of chemical media than remove copper as well (many sold for use in marine tanks). Any help? Cheers, Neale.> 

algae... Reading       11/24/15
is taking over my African clawed frogs tank. It is even making the water green. They do not seem bothered by it but is there anything safe to use to control it?
<A few approaches; yes; and some not
. READ here:
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
My African clawed frogs are just under a year old and live with a goldfish.
they are pretty big and great eaters but I'm scared to try anything. I don't know what is safe. I have A FILTER AND DO PARTIAL CHANGES TWICE A WEEK. they ARE USUALLY HAND FED SO OTHER THEN THE GOLDFISH there isn't a lot of food left on the bottom. I am assuming the sun is causing the algae to grow. HELP

Fighting goldfish       11/24/15
My goldfish are a few years old, 2 fan tails in a 130l tank. They have been living happily together for years, but lately they have been bullying each other, chasing each other around the tank.
<Does happen.... esp. during warming/breeding periods of the year. However; though it may seem counter-intuitive; having a third fish may be the best route to go here. Small odd numbers help diffuse, break-up such bullying>
One minute one is doing the chasing, and then the other takes over and does it for a while. Recently they are pretty much constantly attacking each other.
I got up in the middle of the night to see if they were still at it instead of sleeping, and they were still chasing each other. I expected them to be exhausted but they weren't. One does not appear weaker, they are both vigorously going for each other. The only respite is at feeding time as they are focused on the food, and for an hour afterwards, they are looking for extra food in the substrate.
<Ah yes; other things that might help include increasing the diversity of the setting... more decor; floating plants like Anacharis (Elodea, Egeria)... to provide visual break up of their world, hiding spaces, something to munch on instead of each other>
It's bizarre because nothing has changed. I feed them Tubifex, blood worms and fish flakes. I use the blood worms twice per week, and alternate other days with the other foods. I feed them twice per day.
<Mmm; I'd sub a good pelleted food (Hikari, Spectrum) as a staple for the Tubifex and Sewer Fly larvae... the latter have too much protein and are at times implicated in fish health issues>
I have tried moving their habitat around three times now to reduce the fighting
<Ah, good>
to no avail, as I read this might help, although their home previously had lots of places to hide and nooks and crannies to swim in and out of.
The water quality and temp are fine.
I've now ordered a tank divider as I don't know what else to do. I don't want them to be injured.
Any advice would be great.
Worried fish keeper
<Do consider my suggestions above: Adding a third goldfish (near the same size is best), the Egeria; changing the food.
Bob Fenner>
Re: Fighting goldfish       11/24/15

Oh thank you so much. It's great being able to have some advice as I was getting a little desperate. I will do as you have suggested and I'll keep in touch. Thanks Bob.
<Welcome Mar! BobF>

Infrequent Feeding for Fish (and mar. stkg. Earl's go?)       11/24/15
<Hi Edwin>
I have a predatory setup of Morays, Lionfish, Groupers and Scorpionfish.
My question is what other fish can go with a feeding once a week?
<Predatory nature is not the issue so much as metabolism. A moray can and will naturally go awhile without feeding, a lionfish or similar ambush predator will catch, say, one damsel-sized fish every few days. To a certain point, it's far better for these types of slow, languid fish with slow (but large!) metabolic processes to eat too little than too much.
Lionfish often eat themselves to death. I also have to ask what your setup is like. That combination of fishes seems ok assuming low/short period lighting, a lot of overhangs and cover, and extremely aggressive skimming.
But see below: >
Cowfish / Hawkfish / Squirrelfish / Cardinals ? seeing that they are semi-predatory.
<Squirrels/Bigeyes/Cardinals are also big eaters but more active perhaps and would like a little more food. Cowfish (I am assuming here that you are speaking of the hobby-standard boxfish type) not in the same kind of category...they are regular eaters that are constantly on the hunt for morsels and would suffer for being fed one large, infrequent meal. This goes toward one of my favorite maxims about animals...that you can tell what it does based on what kind of mouth it has. Obviously a sharp-toothed fish has those teeth to catch hold of fast or slippery prey (other fish, squid etc.) and a fish with blunt teeth is a crusher (snowflake eels cracking open molluscs). A cowfish has a small "beaky" mouth and is not going to survive well without small, regular food. If you watch one, they are always moving, prowling, nibbling. Once a week won't cut it. They are also likely to be outcompeted by faster more agile fish. Hawkfish would be a better match depending on size and species (bear in mind fish such as groupers can and will try to consume fish 1/3 their own size when making these choices hehe). If you are looking for more color, variety, denizens generally for that tank but not necessarily predators as such, you could look into "mean" assertive fish that can take care of themselves to some degree and subsist largely on grazing such as the meaner tangs...but limiting your feeding to once a week really does kill your options.
Frogfish maybe? The real question I'd ask is why the limit on feeding to begin with? Hope this helps!>
Re: Infrequent Feeding for Fish; and large SW stkg. Bob's evidently follow-up try        11/24/15

<Hello Edwin>
I have a 180 Gallon (i think it could be more) with heaps of overhang, cover, strong nitrate reactor, huge sump (1/3 of main tank) and an oversized skimmer.
Bob Fenner (are you bob?)
<I am>
and myself had a discussion on how my combination is not feasible but I have always prided myself on achieving hard-to-establish tanks.
For example I had a 5x2x2 feet tank previously with almost 10 bichirs, an Arowana, a green terror, FW stingray, tiger fish etc. On paper it sounds like overcrowding but frequent water changes and quality oversized equipment compensated, the tank lasted for more than 2 years till I made a mistake.
But I digress - current tank has :
6 morays - Blue Ribbon, White Margined (commonly labeled white ribbon), zebra, snowflake, estuarine (g.tile) and labyrinth (not sure if Marco identified correctly).
<Mmm; at least the Rhinomuraena will prove difficult to keep with these others; hard to feed, compete w/ other Muraenids>
All are juveniles and except for the white margined are on frozen food right now.
2 Lions - 1 fuzzy and 1 dwarf zebra
1 Scorpionfish - a yellow leaf scorpion
<And these above; will "accidentally" sting the Morays in time; not compatible>
2 x groupers - so proud of this - i separated a Variola Louti and a Polleni for weeks, they got so used to staring at each other they are now buddies ! (I have pics)
I have been running the above supposedly impossible setup for 3 months and showing no problems at all.
<Good thus far>
As for the infrequent feeding - long office hours plus heavy traveling means I only get to enjoy feeding them on weekends.
<Ah, good>
Hence the once a week - and being a predatory fish keeper I enjoy feeding live - gut fed FW ghost shrimp and green Chromis (cheap in Singapore).
The polleni and Variola grouper add a fair amount of color so was just wondering if any other fish would fit.
A bit too late to add a Comet Grouper so the last fish will be a radiata lion (those things just like starving to death).
<I'd go w/ the Comet over another Scorpaenid>
Hawkfish .. hmm .. I was thinking of a large flame hawk.
<Could fit; until the basses get large enough to swallow it>
What about puffers ? Don’t think they make a good addition - a bad tempered one will really wreck the eels.
I am worried about Frogfish as from experience they will attack massively oversized fish (had a painted choke on a zebra lion) and don’t want them injuring my eels - thoughts?
<A Frogfish would present feeding problems now; but it appears you have good "hand" feeding technique/s here... As you state; if/when it gets bigger, esp. a large species, the Frog might try to consume a smaller fish (Lion)...>
<And you, Bob Fenner>

African clawed frog bruised?       11/24/15
Hello, I have a very small, young African clawed frog,
<Mmm; not Xenopus but Hymenochirus... Dwarf. Have you read on WWM re?>
not exactly sure how old or the gender
<... can be discerned>
as I got him from my grandma who had him since being a tadpole. He has developed what looks like a red bruise on his back leg. I have looked up possible answers and came across red leg syndrome.
<Ahh, no; this looks to be a physical trauma>
It doesn't seem to look the same as some photos posted and he is still very active and eating regularly. He is cleaned every two weeks and likes in a 5 gallon filtered tank. The tank has some large rocks that he may have injured himself on?
<A good guess>
It has only been a few days since I've noticed it. Please look at my attached photo maybe to help diagnose the issue.
Thank you
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/ADFTraumaF.htm
and the linked files above; as you lead yourself. Bob Fenner> 

Tanks that are too tall for a Betta       11/23/15
<Hey Jude>
Just wondering if there is a point where a tank is just to tall for a Betta. I saw a used 16 gallon for sale, but it is 19 inches tall. Is that too tall?
<Mmm; I do think so... sixteen inches of depth is about my limit... and larger volumes (than a few gallons) make it hard to feed a Betta splendens male... too much food goes uneaten>
I also heard of someone who had a 55 gallon with just plants and he got a Betta and put him in there. Thanks
<Yes; can be done... but, have to train the fish to take food/s at a particular spot, and be very careful re
tankmate choices. Alternatively folks can arrange some sort of device w/in these larger tanks to house the Betta.
Bob Fenner>

Anemone ID... following directions?        11/23/15
Could you ID this?
<.... try retaking, and re-sizing your photo and re-sending. Is the pedicle red here? Smooth?
HAVE YOU READ on WWM? Bob Fenner>


Something Odd on my Green Star Polyps       11/23/15
Hello WWM:
<Hey Will>
Thank you for what you do for the hobby.
I have had a green star polyps frag for about 6 weeks. I am new to the hobby, running a 92 gallon corner tank that was a hand me down. I have a 25 gallon sump, UV sterilizer, media reactor running NPX BioBalls, and a sea Urchin skimmer.
My GSP is attached to two small LR branches, along on a LR shelf. The LR is the kind that LFS sells that was made in California and is synthetically impregnated with the LR bacteria - not a lot of likelihood of hitchhikers.
About 10 days ago I noticed one or two small flowery looking things that come out when the lights go out and the GSP recedes. People online have theorized that it is aphasia. Or algae.
<No; looks like Hydrozoans.... perhaps Myrionema genus by name. At any length you can use this to look up re on WWM, elsewhere>
I have taken it out in an effort to tweeze it away, but only got a small piece. I also see many new little white conical sponges on the frag mat. There or some of these on the other side of my tank as well. I have attached one high light and one low light picture of the GSP.
Are the sponges bad? Are they bad in the tank? Do you have an opinion about the "stalk" coming out of the frag?
<Sponges not likely bad>
I cleaned my sump last Wednesday, when I did see one Aiptasia (no doubt about it) and I removed the carbon filter bag that it was attached to. I am thinking of getting rid of the whole frag, unless you think this is a benign thing on the GSP.
<Not benign; unfortunately. Read on!>
Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving!
<And you, Bob Fenner>

Re: Something Odd on my Green Star Polyps       11/23/15
I will remove the frag at once. Is there any chance that it has not spread throughout the tank? Or am I doomed?
<There is a chance; and you're not doomed. Sheesh. BobF>

res respiratory problem       11/23/15
Hi I m Sid
<Hiya – Darrel here>
I bought a res turtle a month ago. He is 2 inches long. He is showing strange things since last 3 days listed below
1) not eating a single thing.
2) not going into water, always sitting on basking stone.
3) not going in shell when panicked.
4) opening mouth periodically to breathe, not always.
5) sometimes I saw white foam around his mouth.
Please help. he was basking properly fed him Taiyo discovery plus turtle food sticks.
He was jolly and active. Now he has active limbs but he is not that jolly.
Please help me ,I cant see him d..!
<OK – first things first. If I understand, he HAS been active and alert and eating and just in the last 3 days you’ve seen these symptoms? If that’s the case, you’ve caught his upper respiratory condition early and you can treat him. He’s probably had it since you got him, but it’s been getting quietly worse.>
<In any case, read here for everything you need to know about URI http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/treating%20RES%20Dis%20DarrelB.htm -- Don’t worry if he doesn’t eat for the next few days. If he’s been eating regularly until recently he can go a week or so without food and if he’s warm and dry that can help him get better.>
<In the mean time, here is everything you need to know about KEEPING him healthy: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm
make sure you read and understand everything and check to see you haven’t missed anything>

Map turtles        11/23/15
<Hiya – Darrel here>
I have baby map turtles and one of them is less active than the other. It also likes to float around like he's dead but he's not. He favors floating under the spout of the filter where the water pours out. Is this him being unique or is he trying to tell me something?
<we can never be sure about that … but congratulations for noticing and asking!!! It’s always better to see odd behavior and assume there IS a problem – better safe than sorry>
<What we look for in the Map turtles, sliders, Cooters and their cousins is that they are active, alert and hungry. Any time a little guy deviates from this we should always check further. So let’s go over the list:
1) Does he bask under the heat source sometimes?
2) Does he go into the water by himself?
3) Does he eat when offered food?
4) Is he alert to your presence (usually people=food=active)?
5) Is his shell firm to the touch (like the others)?
6) Are his eyes open and clear?
If the checklist is ALL ‘yes’ then you can assume he’s a bit weird, but if you have any question AT ALL – then treat him for a respiratory infection according to these instructions: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/treating%20RES%20Dis%20DarrelB.htm  >
<The thing about treating for a respiratory infection is that it’s like ‘chicken soup’ for treating a cold: It may not help, but it can’t hurt!>
<What I mean is that dry-docking and treating for a URI is a non-stress vacation even for a healthy turtle, so whatever his condition (respiratory infection or just being weird) the treatment won’t hurt him>
<And again – make sure your care follows these guidelines: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm >

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