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Isostichopus badionotus: Three-Rowed Sea Cucumber. Light to dark brown with yellow to red spots on podia on the body. Cozumel 2016. 

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by Robert (Bob) Fenner
PLEASE: Write reviews of my works on Amazon! I need your input. BobF

Ick; Didn't Quarantine        2/27/17
<Hi Mark. Gabe here from the crew>
My 400 gallon salt tank just got ick.
<Sorry to hear this. Every aquarist's nightmare>
It is fish only with no corals. I don't really want to medicate if at all possible so I don't kill off my live rock and sand.
<Ok. Might be your only choice in the end>
Any suggestions?
<Medications like copper are the best for FOWLR tanks, but there is an option if you don't want to medicate the display tank. The only way to do this would be to put all the fish in a quarantine tank with a medication.
This would keep the copper out of the display and keep your live rock and live sand alive. Throughout this quarantine period, you need to leave the display tank fallow/empty. Do not add any new specimens of any kind during this period Ick can not survive without a live fish host, so it will eventually all die off. I suggest an eight week period of quarantine and empty tank time. This will ensure all the ick is dead before you put the fish back in the tank. Other than this, there is no good way to not medicate the display tank. Hopefully this will be a life lesson to ALWAYS quarantine new fish. Let us know if you have any other questions. Cheers, Gabe>
Queries        2/27/17

Hi Bob-
Just got back on WetWeb now that my show is over. Thanks for understanding.
I replied to a query about ick that was in the Marine Queries folder to "Mark Salay", but it turns out you already replied to it but it was never moved.
<No worries; better for folks to have more input rather than less>
I guess they will get two replies, hopefully not two conflicting ones :)
Leaving it in the deleted messages folder in case you want to post.
Gabe Walsh, WWM Crew
<And you, BobF>

More re Betta Tumour        2/27/17
Please.. Realize you may not have replied last night, as it was getting later when I sent messages about problem opening your message.. But im terribly anxious to learn if there's anything I can do for "Finny." refer to previous messages.
<Please re-read prev. corr.>
It's been a terribly stressful couple of weeks since lump first appeared.
:( don't know if im imagining, but at times it looks like his "opposite" side may have a bit of swelling too. But more forward on his body? And of course the ever so slightly raised scales, just over the immediate location of lump, or "lumps" if im not imagining the effect on opposite side of body. Also concerned that i used that 7 day course of
Kanaplex antibiotic, only adding to water. Would it work if I needed it "again?" this time mixed with food?
<Not likely; no. Read where you were referred>>
Only reason I didn't mix with food initially was because no one could describe how you could accurately dose him, without "over dosing" him by adding it to food :( the KanaPlex is incredibly concentrated. Please email reply. Text just didn't seem to work properly. Thank you.
<Can you not see our messages? Bob Fenner>
Subject:         2/27/17

These pictures to show body shape on other "right" side of body.
<Same resp.>

My flower horn    2/26/17
My flower horn is sitting very quietly at bottom or near the bio filter an hiding himself and he eats his pellet depending on his mood n I give him Taiyo humpy head , I m not knowing if any disease he is having plz help me out what should i do I bought him three days before
<Hello. You've given me no useful information here. So let me instead direct you to some reading, here:
The vast majority of sick Flowerhorn stories come about because of poor environment. So check the size of the aquarium (250 litres or more, please); water quality (0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and nitrate levels below 20 mg/l); and water chemistry (should be at least medium hard and slightly alkaline; 10-25 degrees dH, pH 7-8). Review, and act accordingly. Cheers, Neale.>

Lighting Replacement BTA's    2/26/17
It's been several years since I've had to write for some advice. I just can't seem to find a concise answer for my situation. Lighting is always one of those topics which gives me paralysis by analysis.
<Easy to understand w/ a bit of study... nowayears there are simple testing devices for PAR, PUR... The deal is you want to deliver oh so much photonic energy to the area of the livestock for so many hours per day...>
My current system is a 90 gal Acrylic tank (48 x 24 x 18) which is home to 4 Rose BTA's and 3 fish. It bought one BTA back in 2008 and it split, and then one of those split again.
<Oh! Or there's the good ole bio-assay... As your BTAs are living; there IS enough>
My current lighting consists of two Hang-on-Tank 150-watt Metal Halide fixtures (300 total) with 10,000K bulbs.
I also have two 55 watt power compact actinics that I use for morning and evening just for the color and effect.
<I like your description re the actinics>
My tank resides in a cabinet I built with a flip up sliding door to access the top of the tank. I had the Coral Life Hang-on-Tank fixtures on a glass tank prior to designing the cabinet for the 90 gal system. These Metal Halide fixtures are mounted to a bracket on the wall behind the tank because they did not fit the acrylic tank.
<A note for browsers to take great care w/ MHs due to their high heat production. NEED to be vented, often actively (fans) and insulated from the acrylic, wood... which they can catch on fire>
So, due to the cabinet design and flip up sliding door, I cannot hang pendants from above. One of the fixtures has broken due to age and deterioration of the plastic housing. The fixture still works so I have it "propped up". The other issue I have is with the power compacts. I bought DIY retrofit kits and have been using them for years. The company I purchased kits from also sold the bulbs and they have gone out of business. I cannot find replacement 55 watt actinics with the 4 straight pin connection anywhere.
<Mmm; call/contact Perry Tishgart at Champion re:
All of that just to ask for a recommendation. I like the shimmer that the Metal halides provide.
<Are really neat>
I like the "look" of the actinics in the morning and evening. The most important issue is obviously providing the correct
amount of lighting for the BTA's.
I must buy something that sits on the tank since I cannot hang it from above and they do not make the same hang-on-back fixtures any more. I've been looking at LED's but really do not have any confidence that I know what I need to replace 300 watts of 10,000K Metal Halides.
<I am going to cc friend, fellow petfish type, WWM Crewmember and rep. for Orphek, James Gasta and ask for his input. He answers these sorts of queries all the time. James?>
I probably do not need as much light as I have, but the BTA's are doing very well so I'm very hesitant to change things. I fear that I'm on borrowed time with these fixtures and it is time to replace the bulbs. My choices seem to be LED and T5. The Metal Halides seem to be all pendant style mounts now and I can't use those.
Thanks for providing this service. I have gained much knowledge from Wet Web Media.
<Thank you for your kind words, and writing so clearly and completely Mark. Bob Fenner>

new to salt water. Set up, refugium choices in hang-ons     2/25/17
<Howdy Josh!>
A store owner gave me a link to your page and I have a question hopefully you can answer. I am setting up a 60 gallon tank I got from pets mart. I am doing a canister since the tank isn't set up for a sump and the stand is way too small for a sump in it. I am using a Fluval fx4 (meant for a 250 gallon tank), reef octopus hang on back protein skimmer (meant for
100 gallon tank). My question is really about refugium. I found a hob one. It comes in 3 sizes. But I was interested in the medium ( 3.60 gallons 19" L x 4.5" w x 12"t) vs. the large (4.70 gallons 25.5 l x 4.5" w x 12" t). I was told to go bigger and not sure if the 60 gallon tank could hold such weight and also was told that both refugiums there (CPR AquaFuge 2) would be too small for my tank. Any information would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
Joshua Benson
<Well; your gear and set up ideas will work. The larger the refugium (of any kind) the better; but ANY is of great utility. Oh, and not to worry re the weight of the unit of whatever size you settle on being too much.
Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Re my Betta     2/25/17
Thank you for your response my Betta aren't / weren't shop bought but are from a reputable uk site that breeds Betta in Indonesia and are only 3-4 months old when bought by us/me. I don't know if this makes any difference to your reply.
<If you're quite sure these Bettas are less than a year old, then yes, "old age" isn't likely a factor.>
I'm on advice going to run the tank Betta free just with Otto and Corys for 3 weeks my two survivors are in qt and are showing no symptoms. I do have a uv steriliser now running do you agree with the timeframe before adding new Betta girls.
<I would wait at least a month between the demise of one fish and the addition of another, regardless of the species involved.>
Thank you.
<Welcome. Neale.>

Betta has a growth, 4 megs, no rdg.      2/25/17
This has been growing on my Betta for a couple months now. I recently put him in a 3 gallon tank with a filter. He was originally in a 1.5 gallon bowl with just a heater. I have tried lifeguard all-in-one and fungus  cure.
The lifeguard looked like it was working, the white spot was turning black.
But when I stopped the treatment as directed on the package, it came back with a vengeance. It has a pearly white shine and looks like a blister about to pop.
<Likely a tumorous growth, exacerbated by environmental stress/pollution.
Not much can be done at this point but hope.

READ here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/BetDisViralF.htm
Bob Fenner>

Im confused??? CAEs gone; wild!      2/25/17
Dear WWM crew,
I had two Chinese algae eaters and they were brown and clearish, they both died last night with their scales orange. i also have a Betta. Did the Betta do something or was is just natural???
- Melanie
<Yikes! Something very wrong-gone here.... Did you do something recently, like change all the water out?
Spray an ammoniated cleaner near the tank? CAEs are VERY tough; oh, and should never be placed with Bettas. See WWM re the neither Chinese, nor really algae eater. Oh, and send along useful data re water quality, the system set up, maintenance, foods/feeding. Thanks. Bob Fenner>

A Better Understanding of Phytoplankton. Control 2/24/2017
Hi Bob,
Are all species of tropical marine phytoplankton the same in terms of how one goes about getting rid of them from their display tank?
<Alike in some principal ways...>
Because I'm trying to figure out whether or not a microscope and UV sterilizer is truly necessary to eradicate it?
<There are other approaches than UV...>
So is it true that regardless of the phytoplankton species, the remedy is the same; water changes to reduce nutrients & dissolved organics along with reduced photoperiod/ intensity?
<These help generally>
And Is it possible to have dissolved organics and nutrients (I assume those are what the plankton are at least partially feeding upon) extremely low (no fish in the tank so this isn't a tall order) and yet the plankton continue to thrive solely via photosynthesis via high output LED lighting?
<Can happen; yes>
justifying the purchase of a UV sterilizer? And not needing a microscope to solve this?
<A 'scope is nice for looking/seeing small things... including algae. UVs can help both by zapping DNA of single celled life happening by, as well as by improving DO, RedOx...>
<Again; there are other approaches... Competitors, predators, filtering mechanically, selective poisoning, nutrient limitation by using chemical filtrants. Perhaps a cursory read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/algaeconMar.htm
Bob Fenner>

Hole in the head?!  Crayfish      2/25/17
Hey Crew,
(Disclaimer: It's 2:00 in the morning so this is going to be so very NOT articulate.)
You guys were awesome helping me before and my crayfish is doing much better. She molted a few weeks after I started giving iodine and while she did not recover her pincer yet, I think she will eventually.
The soft tissue of her "shoulder" (I know actual terminology I swear I'm just really tired) is coming back so I think once that has recovered, she will start getting the actual claw.
<Precisely. The first few tries though will often seem very odd, like a tiny claw totally out of scale to the adult.>
I was worried the arm wouldn't recover at all so I'm relieved. Another good thing is that her gills are no longer exposed. It could be that the ones that had been exposed were actually lost during the molt, but in any case there aren't any exposed now and she was doing well. It's been a relief.
She was active and awesome. But just now I saw her from an angle where I saw the top of her head and SHE HAS A HOLE IN HER FREAKING HEAD. Ok it is pretty small, and I will get pictures tomorrow, as well as test the water
etc, but right now I'm freaking out and had to shoot you an email. I worked with fish for years in pet stores (don't judge me for this lol) and have seen "hole in the head" disease in fancy goldfish and stuff but WHAT THE EFF IS IT DOING ON MY CRAYFISH? It wasn't there a week ago for sure, that's the last time I really saw her from that angle.
<Likely harmless. Crayfish have calcareous, non-living exoskeletons. Unlike our skin, the shells aren't capable of healing, so if they crack, dissolve in soft water, or get scratched by something harder, that's it until the next moult. It seems a crummy system to us, but heck, arthropods have been operating this way for something like half a billion years, there are
literally millions of species around, and they form the bedrock of just about every possible ecosystem you can think of. So it works. Check the pH is over 7 (acidic pH will cause "pitting") and offer something calcareous for her to eat (like an unshelled shrimp or some krill) and she can recycle that calcium carbonate into her next skeleton. Do also understand if she hasn't eaten enough calcium carbonate in her diet, her new skeleton will be weaker and more prone to damage.>
Uggghhh I should never have taken this poor creature out of the pond I have doomed her!
<Possibly, but I'm sure she's fine.>
Ok I'm going to bed now, I obviously need to. Good night.
<And to you! Neale.>

Need advice for very old clown loach; HLLE?      2/25/17
I recently moved my 20 year old clown loach to a new larger aquarium. He was healthy and happy in my 29 gallon ( I know, way too small for a clown) I had hoped to rehome him as he is the lone survivor from a larger tank many years ago.
Because I could find no suitable home, I got a 55 gallon to give him and his angelicas Botia buddies more room ( I do not have room for a larger tank).
<Also understood. While not ideal, there are plenty of Clowns that have lived good lives in 55-gallon tanks, provided water quality is good.>
The move was stressful for him and he does not look well. He would not eat for the first two weeks and then looked like he had hole in head disease with small pits on his face and lateral line. He appears to be eating or at least dragging food into his cave.
This morning he looks like he is developing pop eye. I cannot quarantine him as the stress of moving yet again would likely kill him.
<I agree; at least, it would be stressful and unlikely to help.>
My water parameters for the tank are: ammonia=0, nitrite=0, nitrate=40ppm, ph=7.9.
<All sounds fine.>
I’ve done a small water change and am trying some medicated food, a mix of SeaChem focus and Sulfaplex soaked in garlic guard. Any advice you can give to help me save my fish would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
<I do think you need to treat as per Hole-in-the-Head and Hexamita. Metronidazole is the drug of choice. Be sure to remove carbon and other chemical media from the filter, if used (carbon removes medicine). The pitting will heal over time, but you need to keep the fish free of secondary infections, so ensure an optimal, vitamin-rich diet (fresh greens, in particular, such as peas and Spirulina-enriched brine shrimp) alongside top-notch, oxygen-rich water. Hope this helps, Neale.>

Ick.. Crypt, no rdg; Using WWM      2/25/17
My 400 gallon salt tank just got ick.
<Umm; actually most all captive marine systems "have Crypt"... sub-clinical... "stressors", resulting in observable manifestations>
It is fish only with no corals. I don't really want to medicate if at all possible so I don't kill off my live rock and sand. Any suggestions?
<Yeah.... read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clndiscrypt.htm
and the linked files above; and QUICKLY! Need to formulate a plan, and act... or not.
Bob Fenner>

Pleco with Heavy Breathing     2/24/17
My common Pleco has been breathing hard a while. What I mean by that is that her gills move rapidly and her mouth does too.
<Do try (a) doing a substantial water change; and (b) making sure there is plenty of aeration, and if necessary upgrading such using an airstone or spray bar; and (c) checking the water isn't too warm, 22-26C/72-79F being optimal for most of the common Plec species and varieties. Many aquarists keep their Plecs much too warm, with the result their fish are somewhat stressed, especially as the fish get bigger and consume more oxygen than they did as youngsters.>
She appears to be normal other than that. Her appetite is good. Her body is light at times. She gets faded patches on her and faded stripes. It appears to get better in the dark, but they are still there. She does have a more white patch towards her tail (it seems different colored than the others), but it is not raised. She doesn't appear to be thin. No breathing at the surface. I am current trying to watch her poop for parasites. It appears it is always the color of the food she eats, and it occasionally gets small clear connections between.
But not all the time. Would that still mean parasite?
<Hard to say, but de-worming is usually worthwhile with Plecs and L-numbers generally.>
She seems normal, just breathing hard all the time. I just started feeding her veggies. I didn't realize the importance of them. She was just eating algae flakes. I am highly concerned. I would be devastated if something happened to her. She lives by herself right now, she has since I have had her for the last year. She wasn't very healthy when i got her. What I mean is she was pale all over, never fed, and lived in ammonia (this was at her old home). Here current tank has 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites and, 40 nitrates.
The tank recently had tons of nitrAtes! Very high, I could not tell if it was over 80, or over 160.
I don't know how long it was like this. It could have been a long time. I started doing daily water changes and got it to 40. It appears I have to do one everyday to keep it to 40. There are no or low nitrAtes in the city water. I know my tank is over stocked.
<See above; Plecs are riverine fish that are sensitive to low-oxygen levels and will breathe faster (and in extremis, gulp air) under warm, stuffy conditions.>
I am about to move her to a 150 gallon, but I don't want to move her if she is sick. I bought this tank just for her! She also jumped out of her tank a few months ago. I do not know how long she was out. Could this is damaged her gills, and cause rapid breathing?
<Certainly gill damage, e.g., from Velvet, can cause these sorts of symptoms, but I'd review environment first.>
We also moved a couple months ago, but her tank is just like it was. Could nitrate poisoning have caused this? I thought maybe she had gill flukes but I don't see her scratching.... Since their gills are underneath them would they just rub on the rocks? I don't know what to do! I am worried sick, I have been researching for days! What should I do? Thank you!
PS. OK so I have been watching her poop. I have been giving her sweet potatoes so I could see the color of her poop better. Most of the time, like 80% of her poop is the color of the food. However about 20% of the time her poop is the color of the food with clear, whitish sections in between and sometimes you just get a very thin, kind of curly looking dirty white stand.
<Mucous; it's fairly normal for Plecs and L-numbers to consume silt and organic detritus in the tank, and this binds with mucous to form stringy parts to their normal faeces. Some bogwood to rasp away at is worthwhile, offering extra roughage!>
Way thinner than normal poop. And just like I said in the last email. She is active and eating just fine. Parasites? Stress? I don't know. Would this cause the heavy breathing?
<Hope the above helps. Cheers, Neale.>
re: Pleco with Heavy Breathing     2/24/17

So my temperature is 76 always. There should be a good amount of oxygen because I have bug filters on the tank with a lot of surface movement.
<Do you mean "big" filters?>
Should you suggest moving her to the new tank where she may be more comfortable?
<Adult Plecs need at least 55 US gallons, and realistically 75+ gallons.
They also need a filter with turnover rated at least 8 times the volume of the tank per hour; i.e., for a 55 US gallon tank, the filter should be rated at 440 gallons/hour. Obviously filter media needs to be mature.>
Also, I'm assuming you mean it would be a good idea to deworm her? What would I use? Is it safe to do it not being 100% sure?
<Antihelminth medications are widely sold in aquarium shops; for example Prazi Pro. They are generally safe to use.>
Also is it normal for her to hold her head up? She holds if off the ground all the time. Like an inch usually.
<Sometimes this means the bottom layer of the tank has poor water quality, for example little water flow, or an abrasive substrate that irritates the fish, as is sometimes the case where "funky" coloured gravels are used instead of smooth river grave. Review, and act accordingly. Cheers, Neale.>
re: Pleco with Heavy Breathing     2/24/17

She started holding her head up with the heavy breathing. And it is common for nitrate poisoning to cause breathing problems right?
<Nitrate isn't normally toxic to catfish like Plecs; regular water changes should dilute nitrate sufficiently. Of course nitrate levels above 100 mg/l aren't healthy, even for robust fish, hence the need to control the amount of food that goes into the tank, the frequency of water changes, and the overall volume of the tank.>
Thank you!
<Welcome. Neale.>

Re my Betta     2/24/17
<<Concur with BobF; and more generally, not a fan of mixing domesticated Betta splendens in with standard community fish anyway. It does sound like a systemic bacterial infection, and an antibiotic is really the only way
forward. Will also opine (and BobF may have another view) that domesticated Betta splendens are *not* long-lived animals in general; some six months or more in age before they arrive at the retailers, and unlikely to live more
than a year thereafter, so if they've been at your pet store for two or three months, could well be past middle age. Is this is a factor of genetics? Of over-use of antibiotic on Betta farms? I don't know; but certainly my experience is that relatively few reach "venerable" status of 3, 4 years of age. If any consolation, will Betta splendens are said to be
pretty much annuals. Cheers, Neale.>>

Re: Update     2/24/17
Thanks for understanding. My life is currently a mess. At school for 18 hours today, possibly more :) Luckily it will all be finished on Monday. I'll keep you posted. By the way, we confirmed our vacation to Belize.
Spending a day at the Blue Hole, two tank dive. Hopefully a four tank dive the following day. What did you say lived in the Blue Hole?
<Not much of anything really. Better to visit live reefs than a scarp fault in the ocean.>
I'll send pictures if I get any.
Gabe Walsh, WWM Crew
<And you, B>

RE: molly sick?    2/23/17
Hi and thank you for the reply.. the round worms I attempted to treat using a pig dewormer in small doses soaked into their normal flaked food.
<Likely one of the anthelminthic compounds that are used for fishes...>
. I believe it slowed the growth of the round worms in the tank to allow the fish time to react to it (and I know this was a long shot) but eventually they all succumbed to the very hard to get rid of round worm, having no fish in the tank to supply the worms with a host seemed to be my only course of action and so far it worked, yay.
<.... Please read here Re Camallanus: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/fwwormdisf2.htm
As far as my molly in question if you don’t think it could be “the return of the round worm” then I will leave him alone and hope he gets better.. doesn’t seem to affect him, he’s swimming eating and acting normal as compared to the other molly, I resized and cropped the photos.. hopefully these pics will help you and others determine what is wrong with their fish.
<Mmm; mollies are easily lost... for a few reasons. Try the search tool on WWM to review. Bob Fenner>


Bubble-Tip Anemone Compatibility    2/23/17
Hi Crew,
<Hey Shelby>
I am working on growing my 30 gallon saltwater aquarium. I currently have 2 Percula Clownfish, 1 Engineer Goby, 4 Mini Carpet Anemone, and 2 Nassarius Snails. I want to get a Bubble-Tip Anemone eventually for the Clownfish to host with, but am also interested in urchins or sea stars. I am wondering if a Bubble-Tip is considered compatible with Blue Tuxedo Urchins or Chocolate Chip Sea Stars. Thoughts?
<Mmm; the one word answer here is "no"; but I'd like to offer some explanation/s: First, it's hard to keep even the better species of anemones in small volumes; like your thirty gallon here. They're just not stable enough. Second, there is very little chance an Entacmaea would live with the Mini-Carpets... they're incompatible in such a small space... would
likely either physically meet and fight (to the death) or chemically compete. Third, sea urchins cruise about, especially at night time and will poke sessile life forms like anemones... Unless the latter are mounted high up on rock out of the way. Lastly, see here re CCS: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ccstarselfaqs.htm
and the linked files above>
Shelby Shotwell
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Re: Help picking a new fish. Algae Blennies    2/23/17
Thank you so much for your advice, I felt much more confident purchasing a starry blenny after speaking to you. I managed to find one that had been at the fish store for 2 months and looked very healthy so I got him, he has
been in the tank since Saturday and looking great.
<Ah good>
There was a lot of posturing from one of my male azures at first, and the blenny would lunge at him but as I suspected this completely subsided after a mere few hours. My maroon clown has been unbelievably tolerant of the new addition as well, even when he sits right under her hammer coral.
<Very well>
I do have one more question. Someone has offered me a bubble tip anemone at a very good price. My concern is its compatibility with the blenny. Will he be smart enough to avoid the anemone?
<Mmm; in a seventy five gallon system... I give you good odds that he'll survive; stay out>
I fear him landing on it and getting stung or eaten.
Thanks again
<Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Re: Plecos dying suddenly    2/23/17
Will read the link you gave me, thanks SO much for all your help
<A pleasure to share, aid your efforts Katelin. Bob Fenner>

Re my Betta    2/23/17
I emailed you a few weeks ago about the issues with my Betta I lost three to septicaemia. Then all was fine until whatever the issue is reoccurred my giant girl became lethargic I isolated and treated with antibiotics ( Oxytetracycline) sent by my supplier. I lost one girl. I was advised to put remaining girls in another tank and give them a course of Oxytetracycline change the substrate in my tank I did this along with dipping plants in potassium permanganate soaking ornaments and I also cleaned the tank with pp left for 24 hrs refilled once the girls treatment was completed ( no
further symptoms) they were returned to the tank. Yesterday I noticed my giant was lethargic had a red patch again so removed to qt then overnight I lost 4 girls and the giant. I have 2 survivors no symptoms as yet ( the girls lost were all from supplier). He's told me to remove the remaining two girls and qt them.
The tank has some Cory and Oto in that have been fine throughout.
<The Otocinclus may be "riding" your Bettas, causing stress; perhaps sores leading to bacterial infection>
He's told me to run the tank for two weeks Betta free ( it does have a UV filter running too ) does this sound the right advise.
<Worth trying>
The symptoms have been fine one minute then red patches on body then death each time roughly two weeks apart.
Tank parameters
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrates 10
Ph 7.4
<Will share w/ Neale Monks; who has been communicating with you I believe.
Bob Fenner>

Update    2/23/17
Hi Bob-
Wanted to give you an update on why I'm not answering queries. Our show opens this weekend and I have had a lot of class work to catch up on since rehearsals are after school until 10 PM. I've been at school for 15 hours a day for the past two weeks :(
I should be able to catch up on school work faster once the show ends, but I can't make any promises. I will be back to answering queries in early March.
Gabe Walsh, WWM Crew
<No worries Gabe. As you may well be aware, life is a series of choices (and compromises at times). Focus on your school work, activities mate. Bob Fenner>

exquisite wrasse ailment/behavior   2/22/17
Dear WWM crew,
I am a very inexperienced aquarist, having just begun a tank this past September. Wrasses are the most delicate fish I've attempted and the first didn't live through quarantine (flukes, I think).
<May be>
I have a had a juvenile female (I think) exquisite wrasse in quarantine for 10 days. I was told by the owner of my LFS (an awesome guy) that she had been treated with copper, PraziPro and Chloroquinine phosphate while in the store. Days 1-10 she seemed very healthy. She is in a 10 gal tank aerated with 2 airstones and going through TTM, so the tank is uncycled. She has tolerated the moves very nicely, hiding for maybe 20 minutes after each move with some color change but recovering quickly. I treat the water with Seachem Prime in addition to monitoring ammonia and scrupulously removing waste.
<Mmm; expect me to state something/s regarding the trade off of preventative steps versus induced stress/disease>
Yesterday her fins seemed clamped, breathing a little fast and swimming a little listless. Her tail also seems ragged. All of these changes were very subtle but after losing the first wrasse I have been on high alert for trouble. I added 1/2 dose PraziPro to the tank, watched a bit. She seemed ok and I had to go out for a short time. When I returned she'd been in
PraziPro bath roughly 2 hours and was clearly struggling to swim. I was concerned she wasn't tolerating PraziPro (I have read anecdotal reports that some wrasses don't) so I did a 50% water change (salinity 1.022, matched the tank but the temp of the added water was a couple degrees warmer than the tank I'm afraid) and added a hang - on filter with
carbon. During the water change she exhibited drastic color change, laid on the floor a couple minutes, then hid behind a PVC and has been there since breathing fast. She hasn't eaten.
<I'd NOT treat further, and would expedite the moving of this fish to the main display. Any further delay will NOT add to the likelihood of disease avoidance and WILL add to the potential loss of this specimen>
Hindsight being what it is, I think now that I over-reacted by adding the PraziPro. When laying down her fins are clearly NOT clamped. I can't see her tail to tell if it is actually ragged. My instinct is that she's stressed and to leave her be, maybe she'll come out later. Do you suggest I do differently?
<Yes; move this fish as stated>

I don't want to stress her to death, I know she is delicate. I just want to get her into my display tank, I feel she is
safest there.
Thank you so much,
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>

Re: Plecos dying suddenly   2/22/17
Thanks for the response...I have lost about six more from the main tank and tank I moved others into, the tank I moved them in seems to be stable now, have not lost any for over 24 hours, but lost 2 from main tank that I found this a.m. The tank has the weird tiny white stuff all over the filter, glass, heater, and floating through water and it looks like what is on the Plecos.
<Organic... likely decomposition products from the wood>
The Plecos have more of it on them and even have it in their mouths. The cories are also starting to get white spots and acting sick.
It looks like the exact stuff that was on the wood as well. What Im wondering is, should I set up a new tank and new filter, new everything to put them in even though I won't have the beneficial bacteria?
<I wouldn't... the previous mentions of removing the wood et al. should do it>
(To even assume the bacteria in there is beneficial at all at this point) Or leave them in their tank and continue with the gravel vacs and water changes twice daily even though they still seem to be gasping for air, ill and dying?
<You did remove the wood...>
Do I need to treat for ich, and if so what is safe to use?
<No treatment necessary or advised. I think I've mentioned this already as well>
Thank you so much for your help, I am very worried about doing the wrong thing and losing more of my fish.
<Understood. Bob Fenner>
Re: Plecos dying suddenly   2/22/17

Hi Bob,
So I figured out what was in tank- they are some type of worm, I'm guessing gill/body fluke due to their symptoms and appearance. They were difficult to see, had to use high power flashlight and magnifying glass but there were definitely worms squiggling everywhere and one was attempting to burrow into my boyfriend's hand (actually how we discovered and starting investigating further.) I have moved them to a new tank, but since they are already infected do you have a recommendation for medication safe to use on Plecos and cories, including my Pygmy Cory? I am in the U.S. Much
<Yes; there are a few Anthelminthics of use... Prazi/quantel is a fave. I'd have you read here first:
and the linked files above; where you lead yourself... till you're aware of your options. Do this soon.
Bob Fenner>

molly sick? Env., worm....    2/22/17
Hi my name is Steve.
<Kbytes, not Megs Steve>
. I have a 37 gal tank which I started from brand new in a new hobby .. and of course I made the rookie mistake of adding too many fish too soon… eventually all died off due to overstocking and ammonia spikes
<Yikes; toxic; debilitating>

at the end I had a Pleco (was a real trooper through all medications etc.) and 3 mollies 2 female and 1 male, my other fish had no real symptoms other then swimming upside down and eventually dying. My remaining mollies were both pregnant several times but the male was very quick at eating the fry straight from the oven so to speak! He eventually became lethargic and I noticed (and through research) he had Camallanus worms and shortly after the birth of 2 litters of fry the females finally showed signs of it as well. 30 fry were in the tank and the male and eventually the 2 females passed away, over time only 2 of the fry survived.. eventually as well the last of my “first” fish the Pleco died of Finrot… since then I have only added 2 baby Plecos, one I had to put in because another of my tanks got 2 cold in the garage (supposed to be hospital tank but the heater couldn’t keep up with weather conditions) so I put the Pleco in the 37 gal. the tank I have left alone to see if these 2 mollies would survive or show any sign of the Camallanus it has been 2 months now and they seem to be doing fine other then the smaller of the 2 mollies always had a real thick white almost cylindrical something hanging from its anus… I have been watching it closely and it was hanging out 1/8th to ¼ of an inch from its body and yet feces was travelling through it.
<Reads like a prolapsed colon. Search this on WWM>
No change at all until this week when I noticed the thick white was now getting longer and curving and bunching up underneath but not falling off.. today I noticed that the center of the white stuff is red (no sign of Camallanus) and the outer part of the white looks almost cottony. My question is .. because I have read that Camallanus reproduce through the feces of infected fish could this be a sign that the mature Camallanus had died off with the last of the infected fish and could this be the natural reproduction cycle of Camallanus as I have read it takes several months to cycle?
<Possibly; but again, this brings to my mind the poor fish's alimentary canal protruding out of the cloaca, rotting off>
Sorry about the long winded explanation figured you should know the history of my tank (failures) again the tank is a 37 gal , bio wheel filter, ph 7.5-8, 0 nitrites, just over 80 nitrate,
<MUCH too high. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/fwnitrates.htm
and the Related FAQs linked above. You need to get this below 20 ppm... there are ways detailed here to do so>
0 ammonia, 80 degrees F, 120 kH and 120 gH, I know my nitrates are high and I am doing a 25% water change tonight to help lower it also I am attaching a few pics of the fish in question..
<Need to crop, spiff and then send>
couldn’t get good focus on the blob but figured it might help. Should I remove this fish all together to stop the respreads of Camallanus to be on the safe side or could it be the fishes natural immune system killing off the parasite?
<How did you treat for the roundworms?>
Since these fry were born in the infected tank my home town supply store said they could have an increased immunity to Camallanus.
<Mmm; no such thing as far as I'm aware>
Thank you for any advice you can send my way!
<Welcome; steady on; you appear to have a good mind, steadfastness in your favour. Bob Fenner>

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