Mantis Shrimp Presentation, beh.  11/5/09
A lengthy, but very interesting presentation by Sheila Patek on the Mantis Shrimp. Well worth watching.
http://www.ted.com/talks/lang/eng/sheila_patek_clocks_the_fastest_animals.html
James (Salty)
<Will list. BobF>

Re: Is the mantis shrimp a fish killer? (RMF, what's a Jack Dempsey Damsel?)<<Got me>> Thanks so much for your quick reply! My husband saw the mantis again yesterday and confirmed that it was indeed the smasher type. <I see.> Could the clicks be from a Jack Dempsey damsel? we don't have any other damselfish. <I have no idea what a "Jack Dempsey Damsel" -- and nor does Google!> (The clicks are about as loud as when you snap your fingers, and sound much the same.) <Damselfish clicks tend to sound more like grating. They're not usually loud, and the sort of thing you notice when it's quiet, and find yourself having to listen out for. Mantis Shrimp smashing things sound like taps, while Pistol clicks are very much louder, disturbingly like glass cracking.> I have actually done quite a bit of research on the mantis and I agree that it is a fascinating animal! (you might enjoy the video from Sheila Patek at: http://www.ted.com/talks/lang/eng/sheila_patek_clocks_the_fastest_animals.html It is very interesting) <Indeed, very interesting animals. Briefly worked on a physiology project while an undergraduate, and maintained a collection of two different species for about six months. Nifty things, and seem to learn very quickly.> I am concerned for my other fish, since we have already lost two, I believe though, that perhaps having the trap with the food in it outside the mantis burrow is causing the fish to invade it's territory. <Possibly, but the Mantis will explore at night as well, and potentially take anything sleeping it comes across. While Mantis shrimps don't have huge territories in the wild, under aquarium conditions it's likely all but the biggest tanks would count as a single "home range" for a foraging Mantis.> If I remove the trap, I believe that the fish would stay away from that spot. What do you think? <Don't think this will neutralise the danger at all.> Should I try to feed the mantis shrimp? <You could, but again, this is likely postponing the inevitable. If nothing else, a bigger Mantis shrimp poses more of a threat than a smaller one, and if it's well fed, it's going to grow... You really do want to get this chap out of the reef tank.> if so, what would he like to eat? <Oh, they eat most anything. Mine would eat small crabs, small hermit crabs, prawns, and even juvenile tilapia (I was less enlightened then than I am now about the use of live fish for food). In captivity they are easily weaned onto wet-frozen seafood (squid, prawn, etc.) and things like frozen smelt and silversides (sold in fish shops as "lancefish" usually). They can be hand fed after a fashion, using long forceps or a satay stick. For very, very obvious reasons, you don't hand feed them directly!> Thank you for all of your help. It is really wonderful to have such expert info available! <Glad to have helped. Cheers, Neale.> Re: Is the mantis shrimp a fish killer? (RMF, what's a Jack Dempsey Damsel?) 11/5/09 SORRY I was mixing up fish names! I have a Sergeant Major damselfish, <Abudefduf saxatilis, a nice, if boisterous, fish.> but I have now seen (and photographed) our culprit, and I saw him "click" so I know it's him. <Indeed.> He's moved his burrow (I think because he didn't appreciate our trap) I've attached the pics. Do you have any suggestions on how I can catch him? <Very difficult. Do read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/arthropoda/stomatopods/mantisfaqs.htm Typically a combination of traps and manual removal of live rock ends up being used.> (my husband wants to put him in our nano tank- now empty accept for some snails and Zoanthids) my fish are very curious and a little too friendly and have been trying to investigate him a lot today. :( <Very small Mantis shrimps aren't much of a threat to very much bigger fish, and can often be ignored. But if your fish are too similar in size, then curiosity on their part may have fatal consequences. Cheers, Neale.>

Copper And QT Filter/Quarantine 11/5/09
Hi,
<Hello Anne>
I need to setup my empty 55g as a QT tank. I don't have any type of filter sitting in the sump ready to go for this tank.
Would I be ok to do frequent water changes to keep the ammonia in check?
I'm planning on using copper(fish with ick in DT) and was under the impression that copper would kill any beneficial bacteria from a filter. Is this true?
<Yes, but you may be able to avoid using copper and start with a freshwater dip, and/or or use quinine which is much safer than copper. There are many marine fish that are quite sensitive to copper so care must be taken here when selecting medication for treatment.
Check out the quinine FAQ's here.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/quinmedfaqs.htm>
Thank you,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Anne Canfield

Re: LPS ID.. Now decapod ID, sans pic!  11/6/09
Hi Crew,
Bob, Thank you for your advice, I did not buy that coral...
Now I have one more question. A 7 months ago, when I just started my tank, I got live rocks. Then one month later I noticed one tiny crab, less then 1/4 inch, looked like green emerald, with hairy legs and same kind of feeding behavior, just completely black. This thing is growing so fast, and now it is about 1.5 inch. Is still crapping algae and does not bother other tank mates. I can not get a picture because it spend all the time between rocks. Can you tell me what it is, how save to keep it in my tank, and if it is not save, how to get rid of it?
<Nope>
Thank you very much for your help and everything you do to help people like me.
Best regards,
Igor
<Need images Igor. Please read through here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/swcrabidfaqs.htm
and the linked files in the series above. BobF>

Advertising on www.wetwebmedia.com  11/6/09
Dear webmaster,
A few days ago I visited your website, www.wetwebmedia.com, and as an advertising consultant I must tell you that I think it is very interesting and well built. I would like to make a special proposal regarding your
website which I hope will interest you.
My company, Promo-Wise, is willing to pay you for the publication of a small text ad on your website for one of our customers.
In addition, we can also pay you for the publication of additional images, articles or flash games on your site.
The publications match perfectly some pages of www.wetwebmedia.com.
Please contact me at mia@promo-wise.com and I'll be happy to provide you with more details.
*If you have other websites which I can review for advertising please send me their urls as well.
Kind Regards,
Mia Holden
Advertising Consultant
<Hello Mia... how may I assist you? Bob Fenner, WWM progenitor/mgr.>

Re: Advertising on www.wetwebmedia.com  11/6/09
Dear Bob,
Thank you for your reply.
Do you have other sites besides www.wetwebmedia.com? Please let me know.
Perhaps we can make some sort of a package deal if they'll be found suitable.
I look forward to hearing from you.
Sincerely,
Mia Holden
<Just the subwebs to WWM, our online 'zine and our bb. BobF>

Re: Help repairing 110gal bowfront aquarium  11/6/09 Hello again, Unfortunately after attaching the new top and letting the silicone dry for 30 hours I test filled the tank and found a leak halfway up the side seam. <Uhhh!> The water pressure is bowing the back glass away from the side a tiny bit midway up and causing a leak. From reading your pages it would appear the only correct way to fix the tank is to completely disassemble the tank and reseal it all. <Mmm, maybe not disassemble...> I would love to just seal the leak, but structurally that would be setting me up for a disaster correct? <Too likely to suit> Attached is a picture of the leak. Resealing an entire bowfront tank of this size looks to be a daunting task and not one I am sure I would trust. <Mmm, it's not all that hard... I wouldn't disassemble the pieces of glass. I would cut out the corner beads and clean (see WWM: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/glstksilastic.htm and the others linked above) these areas with a solvent, and reseal (with Black Silastic, 100%) the beads... This really should do it> I purchased the tank used from a very highly respected and strictly reef only store. The store owner swore to me it didn't leak and held water right up to the top pointing to the still visible water line. I assume this is simply what he was told. Do you have any suggestions for how to approach the subject when I talk to him? Thank you, Alex <Show him the pix. There is a possibility that the moving, setting of the tank on a new surface gave rise to this leak. Again, I would not despair. Perhaps ask your dealer if he will help you... with supplying single edged razorblades, solvent costs... the cartridge of Black Silastic... and guidance if you want such. Taking your time here is requisite... Use a tool to smooth out the new Silastic, let cure (a day) and trim the excess... I have done this hundreds of times... Not hard to do. BobF>

Re: Help repairing 110gal bowfront aquarium  11/6/09 Thank you Bob. <Welcome Alex> Cutting and resealing the inside seam I am not afraid of and will try. I think it has already been done once since the top and bottom horizontal seams use clear silicone, and the four vertical seams are black. I was under the dreadful impression that once the structural seal along the edge was compromised a complete reseal was needed. <Mmm, not with a slow leak like this... If it were me/mine, I'd do the inside seams only> If I push the back away from the side it will move about 1/64th inch causing a faster leak. It appears the weak structural area is about 1 inch long in the center of the seam. Your advice is once again appreciated. I will let you know how it turns out. Alex <Please do. BobF>

Re: Hyposalinity, ORP and Raffles B/F, Now Neon Gobies comp., sel.    11/6/09
One other follow-up concern if you don't mind... Hearing that neon gobies would likely be fine with my dwarf lion solved a big problem for me.
<Mmm, yes... strange as it seems, these little fishes are recognized by most all other would-be predators as cleaners and left alone>
So, to minimize the risk of future ich outbreaks, I'd like to get as many cleaner gobies as possible/appropriate. Most of the FAQs that addressed neon goby quantities were for much smaller tanks. In a 220g, is it still better to stick with one neon goby species, or are there any diversity or coverage benefits by mixing species?
<For interest... two species could be mixed here>
Also, if I get more than 1 of the same species, is it necessary to worry about pairings, or are unmated pairs and groups fine in this size tank?
<There is space here sufficient to not worry>
Any recommendations you may have as to quantities and mixtures (or not) for my situation would be greatly appreciated. I'm thinking that a group of 4-6 G. oceanops might make for a great display, but what's best for the fish is more important than what might look cool...
<These should be fine. Do look for tank bred/reared stock>
Sean
<What little I know re these genera is posted on WWM. BobF>
Re: Hyposalinity, ORP and Raffles B/F
Awesome. Than you VERY much for the fast and helpful info.
<Certainly welcome Sean. BobF>

Re: Orange rock beauty, Anem. ID!  11/6/09 Bob, I'm sending you a couple of pictures of the anemone, I think is an anemone because it has a mouth and can walk around like one, it also have 2 sets of tentacles the branch looking ones and a normal ones. One of the pictures is how it looks full expanded when the lights are on, the other of how if looks resting and one picture of it moving around where you can see its seconds set of tentacles. A very impressive animal and one of my favorites of my tank, please feel free to use all the pictures I have send you. Saludos PS: I think you should come to panama here you have the advantage of diving in 2 different seas and believe me you won't regretted. <Very interesting... thank you for these further photos; and Panama is one of the few countries in C. America I have not been diving in. I will hopefully one day! Bob Fenner, who has asked LynnZ for help!> A bizarre anemone? Lynn, please take a gander at the query in your WWM in-folder... What is this thing? BobF Holy cow, that is one odd-looking organism!  I'm not sure what it is, but will look around tomorrow and see what I can find.  Take care, Lynn

Re: Skeletor Eel – 11/06/09 Dear Marco, <Hi Bill.> I was feeding the other fish and the newly acquired eel must have smelled the food so he started swimming around in the back so I fed him. Gave him 2 pieces of squid and he was all over it. That was only 6 hours after getting him out of the shipping box. I'm very happy that he is eating already. <Yes, this sounds very good. I’m glad the eel is eating already.> Today he is hiding in some rock cave and didn't come out to eat but at least he didn't escape last night LOL. Here is a pic of him yesterday, will take more whenever I can get his whole body. <Thank you very much for sending. A beautiful specimen.> Thanks, Bill <Cheers. Marco.>

Re: convict cichlids breeding information  11/6/09
Thanks dude for the info.
PAVAN G.S.
<I assume being a "dude" is good! Cheers, Neale.>  

Fish tank noise, Betta sys.   11/6/09
We have a little Betta who we love.
<Good stuff.>
He lived in a Betta Cube for several months, but now he seems not to be doing too well (tail rot which I am treating) & we bought him a Marineland Eclipse tank (3gal). We set it up, and find that it makes this constant humming noise that it really annoying to humans and quite loud.
<To be really honest, tanks smaller than 5 gallons are typically "toys" rather than serious aquaria, and I can't recommend them. The Finrot you are dealing with is directly related to poor water quality, of that there's no
doubt. The so-called Betta Cubes are practically death traps, and shouldn't be used, and even a 3-gallon tank is a marginal habitat, at best. They're difficult to heat and difficult to filter, and because they contain so
little water, there's no leeway for error. I have no idea why they're sold, or for that matter, why people buy them. A 5-gallon tank is, in my expert opinion (!) the minimum for safe, reliable Betta maintenance.>
I imagine, if you are a fish, it may be devastating.
<Certainly fish are sensitive to vibrations in the water.>
Is it ok for us to move our fish there, or should we get another tank?
<I'd take the thing back if it's new, and get a refund. Much better to buy a plain vanilla 5-gallon glass tank, or even a 10-gallon tank if you'd like to add some shrimps and plants and maybe some carefully choose tankmates like Kuhli Loaches or a school of Corydoras habrosus. Do see here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_5/volume_5_3/stocking.htm
Equip the tank with an air-powered sponge filter, a heater, and you're all set. Some floating plants are welcomed by Bettas for a variety of reasons, and Indian Fern would be a good choice here. In that case, choose a system with some nice bright lights, upwards of 1 watt per gallon.>
What should we do? We change the water 2x week on the Cube, but we thought he would be happier in a nice tank.
<That's the theory, anyway. Unfortunately, like many things in life, quality varies. A little research and a willingness to spend a sensible amount of money, perhaps on good basic kit rather than something cleverly
marketed can be wise.>
Please help.
Vicki
<Cheers, Neale.> 

Betta behavior  11/6/09
my beautiful bright blue Betta (McSteamy) seems to like burrowing in the marbles and smooth glass "pebbles" on the bottom of his tank.
<Maybe hungry and looking for food? But more probably, he's annoyed by the reflections in the glass pebbles and marbles. It should go without saying that the best (most humane) substrates are natural substrates such as pea gravel and smooth silica sand. Anything brightly coloured and/or reflective might seem amusing to us, but fish hate them. Pet shops will happily sell inexperienced aquarists overpriced glass baubles, but you'll notice that experienced aquarists don't go anywhere near them. There's a reason for
that...>
He comes to me when I "call" him by putting the tip of my clean finger in the water. He actually rests against it and responds every time. eats well.
He is very small so I assume young. Is the burrowing worrisome?
<May well be an issue if he's disturbed by his reflection. Remember, male Bettas are territorial, and they will attempt to drive off anything they consider a rival. If they can't do that, because it's a reflection not another animal, the continual stress can lead to physical problems. While there's some debate about how animals respond to behavioural stress, aquarists agree that a stressed fish is likely to become a sick fish.>
I appreciate your help.
<Cheers, Neale.>

Constipated female Betta - 2 years old  11/6/09
Hello Crew,
<Hello Elizabeth,>
Thank you as always for the incredible job you do helping us keep our fish happy and healthy. Pixy lives in a filtered 10 gallon, heated tank.
<What a fantastic home for this fish! Music to my ears. Well done.>
I went away for 5 days and I think she was overfed during my absence.
<Yikes! Remember, instead of scheduling others to feed them, most (adult) fish are best left without food for up to two weeks. This does them no harm at all if they're in good health to begin with.>
She is swimming vertically sometimes and has a small bump on her left side. I did some reading on your web pages and it would seem that she is constipated.
<Can, does happen... especially where dried foods are used.>
I treated the tank water with two tablespoons of Epsom salts, gave her ¼ of a pea and she has not been fed now for over 24 hours. The feeding stopped on November 4.
<Good.>
My questions are:
Is there anything more I can do for her?
<Time, afraid, is the great healer here.>
Do you have any idea of when she will start swimming normally again?
<Should clear up within a week.>
Of course I do not want to starve her so I thought I should start feeding again (her regular amount or less) on November 7 or 8.
<Don't worry about starvation! Don't feed the fish at all until she's better, or if you do want to feed her, stick religiously to foods that have a laxative effect, i.e., peas, live (or wet-frozen) daphnia, and live (or wet-frozen) brine shrimp. Do not use any freeze-dried, flake or pellet foods; this include freeze-dried daphnia and brine shrimps. It's the drying process that makes foods more likely to cause constipation, which is why I recommend they be used as part of a balanced diet, alongside wet-frozen, live, and/or green foods.>
Can you help me to help her?
Thank you,
Elizabeth
<Happy to help. Good luck, Neale.>

Ammonia Problems in Saltwater Tank - 11-6-09
Currently I own a 46gal bow front tank housing the following marine fish:
1 - damsel
1- percula clown
1 - saddle back butterfly
1 - Cream angel
1- panther grouper
<In a 46 gallon?! It'll literally grow larger than your aquarium!>
1- hermit crab (very small)
1 - coral banded shrimp
1 - choc. chip star fish
Everything seems to be fine (testing wise)
pH - 8.4
salt level: 1.23ppm
nitrite: 0.0
nitrate: 0.0
ammo - .25
<Not fine>
So as you can see the levels look pretty normal for the exception of a little ammonia......
<Ammonia is incredibly stressful, and any detectable quantities means a big problem in an established tank>
To correct this I know a water change or ammo lock will nullify the problem.
<Temporary fixes that do need to be done - but the larger question is, why is the ammonia present? In this case, I think I know what the answer is - the panther grouper!>
Anyway, my question is this, my choc. chip star, for the past two to three weeks it's not eating at all... I used to go up to about 4-5days ant it would eat frozen dried krill like there was no tomorrow.... now it could care less about eating.... it's moving around the take continuously... I see not abrasions, nothing out of the ordinary...... what do you think is wrong? I do have frozen brine, and protein cubes 9forgot what they are called). Al the other fish and inverts and eating like freakin pigs but him........ my panther is eating whole krill now as well.....Any idea what's going on or what I should do? Would it be a good idea to test phosphate levels? I know that's for inverts but correct me if I'm wrong the starfish is an invert correct?
One other thing...... the cream angel, I'm beginning to notice a change in it's color, it's slightly a faded white color, BUT again, he's eating awesome.......would this be because of the ammon ia level? could it be a beginning disease ? any ideas?
Please advise..
thanks
Brett
<Okay this is un-publishable...see http://www.wetwebmedia.com/QueryCorrsRefPg.htm and resend. Mike Maddox>

Re Possible SPS Hitchhiker/Coral ID 11/6/09
Thanks.
<You're welcome.>
I've never seen Zoas look like these.
<Many species.>
I've shown the picture to a local saltwater aquarium society and no one mentioned Zoas. They mentioned that it could be a type of encrusting Monti or possible Cyphastrea. Since there were no actual stalks below the heads, no one
mentioned Zoas. The heads are attached directly to the mat.
<Likely why they are called Sea Mats. James (Salty Dog)>

Anthias Quarantine And Introduction 11/6/09
Hi
<Hello Ormy>
Firstly let me just congratulate you all on a wonderful site, and also thank you for the time, patience and the "calling a spade a spade" manner you use when answering questions.
<Thank you.>
My question concerns the quarantine and introduction techniques for establishing a group of eight anthias in a reef tank. After reading your site I think that it is best to not quarantine the anthias group
<Correct, most are sensitive to copper treatment and stress easily.>
(especially as my quarantine tank is only 20 gallons), and to just freshwater dip them, possibly with Methylene blue, and then introduce them to the main tank. But I am concerned that adding a group of eight fish all at the same time will overload the filtration capacities of the tank, especially considering that the anthias will be fed multiple times a day.
Any input you can provide and any putting my mind to rest will be greatly appreciated.
<Would help to know the species of anthias you desire to keep, tank size, filtration system, tankmates if any, will live rock will be used, etc.
In lieu of that, do read here and related articles/FAQ's.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anthiina.htm
Many thanks,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Ormy Downing

Odd Lysmata amboinensis Deaths, poisoning    11/6/09
Greetings! I have now lost my 6th Scarlet cleaner shrimp for and unknown reason. For starters my system specs: 120 gallon system with Rena canister filter and an aqua remora protein skimmer with a large pump. My tank contains 175-200 pounds of live, well cured rock and 5 clay pots of various sizes. I have three fish, a 7-8 inch unicorn tang ( not of the vlamingi type) a two inch Sailfin tang, and a 5 inch gold stripe maroon clownfish.
None of my fish that I have ever had nor the ones I currently have have ever showed any aggression towards the little shrimp. I have never purchased adult sized shrimp nor very small shrimp. Usually around the 1 inch
measurement ( usually a bit larger). My water quality is excellent and feather dusters do very well. I feed my fish Spectrum Thera +A and mysis shrimp and Spirulina algae every two-three days. I feed them so long as the feeding session lasts 5 minutes then they're done. Every single shrimp has always cleaned and
eaten well. Here's the catch, I've never found any remains and they all last 3-4 days before vanishing into murky water (pardon the pun). The only chemical I put into my aquarium is purple up on a regular basis and
ChemiClean when necessary.
<Either one of these... Likely the Algicide...>
I keep up weekly water changes and filter media changing. If you have a remedy to my expensive problem, my fish and I would be ever so grateful!
<I wouldn't use the Algicide, nor likely the coralline booster product/s.
See WWM re both, and Hippolytid Health FAQs. Bob Fenner>

Spot on Midas Blenny  11/6/09
I have done a great deal of research, and I have not found anything that answers my question. I recently ordered a Midas Blenny that appears quite healthy. I would add a picture, but he hides too much to get a picture of him at this time. Anyway, on his top fin, there is a fairly large (.2 cm) dark gray to black spot that is somewhat raised. I have looked for parasites
and at many pictures, and none of these seem to fit what I am seeing.
Could it be a benign growth of some kind?
<Mmm, yes>
I did do a freshwater dip, and examined the area at that time, and it really does not appear to be anything that is attached to him externally (like a parasite). If you have any thoughts it would be appreciated.
Thank you
Michael
<I would not be bothered by such a marking. It is unlikely deleterious.
Ecsenius species are variable, E. midas highly so in the wild. This is likely a "color difference". Bob Fenner>

Black patches/poorly... Uhhh, on what?  11/6/09
My fish started to get small black patches on his body last week !
<What sort of fish is this? A Goldfish? A Guppy? A Whale Shark? We do need to know this... As for the black patches, is this Finrot? Or simply that the fish's colour is changing?>
Then it has quickly covered most of his body ! I checked water it was high in ammonia !
<Review conditions in the aquarium. All fish are sensitive to ammonia, and anything above zero is dangerous. Firstly, check the aquarium is big enough for the fish being kept. Goldfish for example need an aquarium at least 30 gallons in size if two are being kept (the minimum number, since they're social fish). Guppies need 15 gallons upwards. And so on, depending on the species. Also check the filter is reasonable for the fish being kept. For small fish, like Guppies, a filter rated at 4 times the volume of the tank
in turnover per hour is adequate. In other words, for a 20 gallon tank, you'd use a filter rated at 4 x 20 = 80 gallons per hour. For bigger fish, especially messy species like Goldfish, you'd up this to 6 or 8 times the
volume of the tank. So a 30 gallon Goldfish aquarium would need at minimum 6 x 30 = 180 gallons per hour. The gallons per hour (GPH) (or litres per hour, LPH) number will be printed on the filter pump or its packaging, if you don't know it.>
So did a few water changes the ammonia remained the same so did a full water change ! Ammonia is now perfect /ph perfect nitrate etc all ok !
<Well water should be "perfect" after a water change. The tricky bit is keeping it that way. I mention this because 99% of the time, fishkeepers are dealing with sick fish because they're not providing the right water
quality or water chemistry. Goldfish for example need 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, a pH between 7.5 and 8, and a hardness level above 10 degrees dH. So check the numbers your test kits provide against what an aquarium book tells you about the species being kept.>
I have put in gold disease safe two days ago !
<Do you mean "Interpet Goldfish Disease Safe"? Believe this is an old-fashioned mix of formalin, copper, and malachite green. Fairly good for some external diseases like Ick, Fungus and Finrot, but will have little/no benefit otherwise. Potentially highly toxic, so avoid using unless absolutely necessary.>
However the fish is sitting on the bottom of the tank , fin down !
<Just sounds like a fish in poor environmental conditions. Review the size of the tank, filter, pH and hardness.>
If I approach the tank he perks up and swims normally , but he does not seem like himself ! I don't know what else to do very worried ! ?
<Assuming this is a Goldfish, which is the only species you'd use Interpet Goldfish Disease Safe on, then my money is on the aquarium being too small, the filtration inadequate, the water too soft, or the diet too monotonous.
Do read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/goldfish101art.htm
>
Any suggestions ! The other fish is happy as Larry and not effected by ammonia ! Any suggestions ? Thanks
<Most Goldfish die because their owners kill them. It's a simple as that.
Given the right conditions, these fish are astonishingly robust. So please, please, please review environmental conditions. If you need to discuss any of the above, feel free to write back. Cheers, Neale.>