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Lysmata amboinensis (De Man 1888), the Indo-Pacific White-Striped Cleaner Shrimp or Ambon Shrimp. Widespread in the tropical Indo-Pacific and Red Sea. Telson white, uropods with two white dots. Can be kept singly or in groups. A hardy Cleaner. Here giving a stock manicure in Bali 2014 
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Updated 10/21/2014
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Daily Q&A replies/input from the WWM crew: Nate Guerette, Rick Novy, Bobby Rudro, Jordan Stari, Sue Garrett, Darrel Barton,
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Angelfishes for  Marine Aquariums
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by Robert (Bob) Fenner
PLEASE: Write reviews of my works on Amazon! I need your input. BobF

Note: BobF is out w/ friends in Hawaii 10/15-23. Hence the dailies may be posted sporadically.

Re: Angel fish with mollies     10/21/14
Thank you for the advice. I have one more question, please. The water pH in my area is about 8.3.
<Sounds like liquid rock. Presumably the water is very hard. Mollies will be happy!>
If I did a slow and correct acclimation on an angel would it be safe living in that pH?
<Possibly, but I wouldn't bank on it. The pH is somewhat less important than the hardness. Above 20 degrees dKH hardness Angels may struggle to thrive. So get your hardness tested before doing anything else.>
Are there some breeds that would adapt to the higher pH easier than others?
<Ideally, get locally bred ones; have seen some hobbyists breed their Angels in liquid rock, and these will be ideally suited to your aquarium.
Farmed ones shipped over from Southeast Asia are more likely to have been reared in soft water. Contact your local/city fish club. Angelfish are invariably a popular species for breeding, and consequently shouldn't be
difficult to source locally.>
Thank you.
<Most welcome, Neale.>
Re: Angel fish with mollies     10/21/14

Thank you again. Please tell me what dh hardness is, and I assume there is a test kit for it?
<It's called "German Hardness Scale" measured in degrees dKH. It measures General Hardness (sometimes called GH) rather than Carbonate Hardness (which is measured in degrees KH). Yes, there are many general hardness kits. Some give their results in degrees dKH, others in mg/l equivalents of either calcium oxide or calcium carbonate. Do read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/fwh2oquality.htm
Essentially, if the water is soft to moderately hard, Angels are fine; if it's hard to very hard, they're not a good choice.>
Also, if the angel is surviving in the LFS at a higher pH it should be OK I assume unless it hasn't been in the tank that long and can be in bad health without symptoms?
<No. A fish lasting a few weeks in a tropical fish shop isn't the same as a fish living the next 10 years in your home aquarium. Check your water chemistry, then decide. Better still, find a local keeper/breeder and get
some Angels used to your water, if such exist.>
<Cheers, Neale.>

Is this fungus on my Emperor angelfish?     10/21/14
Hi Crew. Thank you again for such a wonderful website.i have an emperor angel in Qt ( ph 8.1-8.2,nitrate 10-15, nitrite and ammonia 0,temp 79 F,salinity 1.025 I use ro water for water changes and top of)My emperor
angel had Ich and was scratching on the rocks,(was treated with Cupramine) to the point of getting 3 small cuts which now developed a weird growth. they look like raised cauliflower growth (and I thought about
<Is my guess... viral... a reaction from stress... From? Copper exposure among what?>
but its on the cuts so I was wondering if it was possible that it is fungus or infection. The growth are raised-about 3 mm and 3-4 mm wide. please let me know what do you think.i know the pictures are not very good-but he
won't stay still for a second. My qt is a 1" acrylic tank that is badly scratched so I put him in this container for pics (these are the best pics I got so far)
Thank you very much. And have a great day.
<I'd do what is listed on WWM to boost immunity, add a purposeful cleaner organism that will get along w/ whatever you have; and be patient. Bob Fenner>

STEM resources for your site     10/21/14
<Mmm; no thanks. Not enough pertinence. B>
Hi there! I’m writing on behalf of Educator Labs, a volunteer-based startup that conducts free research for educators. We put retired teachers and librarians (like me!) back into meaningful engagement with other educators.
One of our missions is to share the unique and informative STEM resources we come across, as we believe teaching science, technology, engineering and math can never be overdone.
I noticed the science education resources on your site (on this page: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/alkmeas.htm) and thought you may be interested in seeing other similar resources. I have many (many!) I could share, but I’ve narrowed it down to six. Any interest in sharing these on your site?
NSTA | Freebies for Teachers
Science Fair Project Ideas, Answers & Tools
The Science of Addiction: K-12 Integrated Prevention Curriculum
Exploratorium | The Science of Cooking
The 10 Best STEM Resources
Calculators for Kids: Important STEM Tools
Have a great day!
Jasmine Dyoco | info@educatorlabs.org
http://educatorlabs.org/ | Cultivating. Connecting. Curating.
2054 Kildaire Farm Rd. #204 | Cary, NC | 27518
P.S. Send me an email response if you'd rather not hear from me in the future. I understand and respect your wishes!

Water Test Kits.     10/21/14
Just a quick question please. Are API test kits of decent quality?
<Medium junk... made by other folks. Cheapies... really neither accurate nor precise. But about right for the mass majority of US consumers>
Someone on a forum (an experienced breeder of marine and freshwater) said they aren't. He recommended a make called 'Saliferts',
<Yes; much better. Umm; in the qualities mentioned above>
which is a brand I have not heard of before. What brand of test kit would you recommend?
<Hahhhhaaahhhhhaaaaaaaa.. Posted over and over on the site>
Thank you.
Kind regards,

Dormant Cryptocaryon? Using WWM?      10/21/14
<Uh yeah>
I have a 250 gallon fish only aquarium with a mix of puffers, surgeonfish, and angels. I had a Cryptocaryon outbreak in the spring, and brought the salinity of the main tank down to 1.011.
<As the slogan goes: "How's that working for ya?". Doesn't work>

I hit 1.011 in the middle of June. By July 1, everyone was clear with no spots visible anywhere.
All the fish took the hypo very well, and approx 8 weeks later I started bringing the salinity back up. About two weeks ago, we hit 1.019, and I'll be damned but I'm seeing Cryptocaryon reemerging on some of the fish.
There have been no new additions since the spring.
<Oh! Imagine my surprise!>
Is it possible for a Cryptocaryon cysts to stay dormant for 8 weeks or longer?
<Yes. Please... search, read ahead of writing us>
Thank you!
-Matt P
<Welcome. BobF>

Re: Dormant Cryptocaryon?     10/21/14

Hi Bob, I want to thank you very much for your response. I have great respect for you, and am honored to have your attention. Just a little background, I have extensive experience with fish, marine and fresh. Right now while I type to you, I can look at my multiple tank quarantine systems and count about 2 dozen fish that are undergoing 4 week quarantine/observation with Praziquantel prophylactic treatment. I do aquariums for local schools, libraries, non-profits, etc. With all due respect, I have done extensive reading on your website, among many others. In fact, here at my desk I can pull and read "Aspects of the biology of Cryptocaryon irritans" by A. Colorni. which I keep front and center, along with Fish Disease by Noga.
I have successfully treated crypto on multiple occasions. I have destroyed it here in my bare bottom quarantine tanks with Cupramine. I have successfully beat it out of a 200 gallon reef tank using standard protocol for Hyposalinity, catching all fish from tank and moving them to a bare bottom treatment tank, and then utilizing hyposalinity in the treatment tank while the reef remained fallow for 8 weeks. That worked, however I lost the surgeonfishes, in part I believe because I improperly put both of them in the same 75 gallon treatment tank and they got too stressed from being that closely confined with one another. The problem I'm having with the tank I emailed you about is the sizes involved. The fish are large and moving them to separate treatment tanks is not a good option. So I wanted to treat their main display as a large treatment tank and try and root out the crypto using hypo in the display tank itself.
<Well; the causative organism won't go entirely, but one can "tip the balance" to fish hosts via such techniques>
There are no inverts, and it's not a reef type tank. Just a fish only with liverock and livesand, plus a refugium downstairs with a deep mud bed and mangroves (plus skimmer, rowa reactor, UV, etc.). In your response you said "Doesn't work". What specifically are you referring to?
<Hyposalinity itself to eliminate Protozoan fish diseases.>

Using 1.011? If I were to go to 1.008, would that potentially lyse my Tomonts? I have been operating under the assumption that Tomites needed salinity above 1.012 in order to swim to and attach to a fish, and that
after 4 weeks, there will be no more Tomonts left to hatch Tomites. Are there specific flaws in these assumptions?
If so, what are they?
<Specifically the length of time of embedded intermediates; perhaps off-host resting stage>

Thank you very much for your time. -Matt Parsons
<Thank you for requiring further discussion Matt. I will try to be more informative: Have yet to see scientific proof that hyposalinity (lowered specific gravity exposure of infested fishes) as employed by hobbyists,
effect a real, permanent cure. Rather than paying partial lip service, in any way encouraging the general public (myself; though yes, others here, independent content providers I've purchased writing for WWM) DO consider
hypo. a reasonable treatment modum. I AM a fan of bare bottomed tanks/vacuuming, the use of quinine compounds, some very wide copper compound use with most fish families. AND a giant fan of exclusion SOPs
(dips/baths, pH adjusted freshwater, often w/ formalin).
Some friends in the trade utilize quite low spg as an ongoing means of external parasite control; in turn saving money on salt mix, lessening other (e.g. algae) maintenance issues.
Re: Dormant Cryptocaryon?     10/21/14

Thank you for your response.
<Glad for the opportunity to put forward my understanding; and learn from others>
I have two options at this point-
1- try some sort of quinine compounds after thorough research.
2- just keep the salinity low. The Fish really don't seem to mind it, and yes it does save quite a bundle of money for salt, and the rocks certainly stay clean of encrusting algae growth as well.
<Ah yes; as prev. mentioned, one friend, Mitch Ichinotsubo (who penned a fish disease book w/ Bob Goemans notably), told me at a Fish Hlth. Conf. we were presenting at that he keeps his FO service accounts permanently at 1.012 spg>
I've read differing reports on the long term effects of depressed salinity on the marine teleost kidney function.
<Yes; I as well. I do know that many advanced bony fishes do venture into brackish to pure freshwater, sometimes for extended durations... apparently with impunity>
That's my only fear with keeping the tank at depressed salinity indefinitely. But like many things written on the internet, there's a damn good chance it's bunk.
<I expressly do NOT take anything in print or vocalized as "true"; the Net of course inclusive>
I've been of the hopeful mindset that Crypto could be rooted out of display tank. It's starting to look like the sort of thing that needs to be managed long term, without ever a clear decisive victory.
<A good point of view IMO/E>
I am in a position where people call me to fix their problems once they are well in over their heads. As such, It can be painful for me knowing how important proper quarantine with prophylactic treatment is to preventing
these issues, and that most of the time, people haven't done that and I have to sweep up the mess. I do my best, and have a pretty solid track record of keeping fish alive and healthy for years and years (Seems like a deep mud bed with macroalgae really makes a big difference in overall health for fish along with proper nutrition).
<I do concur. Oh, and to toss in, proffer my dos centavos: the addition of vitamins and HUFAs>
I am going to try and monkey around with the salinity in this tank for the next 3 months. I may keep it at 1.011 for 3 months, and then try and bring it down to 1.008 for 3-4 hours to potentially lyse any remaining Tomonts
that have not yet hatched. Who knows, maybe I'll get lucky. I'll keep you posted, it'll probably be about 6 months before I truly find out if this new protocol works.
<Mmm; am given to (hopefully) suggest to some budding/searching grad. students that they work out (or just find in the pertinent literature) a protocol for sustaining the various life stages of this and other parasites... and DO the science; determine under various conditions the efficacy for treatments. For instance, DOES the use of Melaleuca HAVE any pharmacological property/ies? I think not; judging from years of second hand reports; but...>
Thank you again, it's been a pleasure. Most people's eyes get a bit glassy when I start talking fish. I've gotten so deep into the biology of Fish and coral keeping that most people have no idea what I'm talking about.
<A pleasure to share. BobF>

Thoughts on stocking list     10/21/14
Bob and or Crew,
I wanted to run a stocking list for a 120 gallon (60x18x26) by you before I move forward with stocking:
-Pair of Ocellaris Clowns
-Purple Firefish
-Royal Gramma
-Mystery Wrasse
-Latticed Butterfly Fish
-Kole Tang
-Blue Throat Trigger
Your thoughts are always appreciated!
<Temperament and size wise these might well work out together. Start the Xanthichthys last and small. The Ctenochaetus second last. Bob Fenner>

Disease... iatrogenic      10/21/14
<... 11.3 megs of pix... for one breaking down Damsel. We demand that queriors limit what they send us for the reasons stated on how you found to write us>
I have a 220 gallon aquarium that was setup in June. We have been slowly adding fish to it. I had 4 yellow-tailed damsels, 3 blue damsels, two orange Ocellaris clowns, one chocolate Ocellaris clown, one coral beauty, one
flame Hawkfish, one blond Naso tang and three Heniochuses. I added two new fish last Friday, a saddle backed butterfly and a long-nosed butterfly.
<No mention of dip/bath, or quarantine. You're detailing the beginning of expensive lessons>
Both looked healthy at the time of acquisition. On Saturday all of the fish in the tank were eating and healthy. On Sunday night I noticed one Heniochus and the long-nosed butterfly were swimming in place and not eating. Last night I came home from work and most of the fish were covered with white spots and in obvious distress. Today, the Naso tang, yellow long-nosed butterfly, saddle backed butterfly, one Heniochus and one yellow-tailed damsel are dead.
<... soon the rest>

One Heniochus is near death and one orange Ocellaris clown is in great distress. I am attaching pictures of one of the surviving damsels. Can you identify the problem and advise a course of action? Thank you.
<Not with great confidence from mere photos. Need sampling and microscopic examination. Where to refer you to read? Maybe here:
and as much of the linked files in the header as it takes for you to be satisfied that you understand your options (now). Going forward: prophylactic measures... Bob Fenner>

Mantis shrimp     10/20/14
I have an empty 30 gallon tank, and would like to acquire a mantis shrimp (Neogonodactylus oerstedii, only reaches about 3 inches) , I already have a website that will ship to me, and researched mantis shrimp care. However, this will be my first salt water tank (though I have had success with brackish). I know how to feed the shrimp, and have local food suppliers.
But I need technical info. I do not know the temp, ph level, or salinity (I know it is 33-36 PSU but I do not know what that stands for on my salinity gauge). Any basic info would help me, thanks.
<Kept these at university (Gonodactylus oerstedii back then...) and they're very hardy. Basically, a standard fish-only aquarium kit is all you need, with dividers if you plan on keeping more than one per tank (we used a DIY approach with plastic mesh for this). External canister filter, a skimmer if you want. Temperature around 25 C/77 F is fine. Lighting irrelevant.
Salinity anywhere within the normal range, but 1.025 at 25 C is ideal (the PSU is a measurement of salinity, i.e., salt concentration, which aquarists rarely worry about; specific gravity is a much easier proxy, for which a
hydrometer will work nicely where these hardy beasts are concerned). Tufa rock or similar for hiding places. Secure lid probably important though ours never got out (unlike the crabs we kept...). Feeding as per the
family, with small molluscs and crustaceans being favoured (they're "smashers"). In short, if you can maintain reasonably steady conditions, you'll find these Mantis Shrimps easy to keep. Cheers, Neale.>

Angel fish with mollies     10/20/14
Hello Crew, hope all is going well. I have an innovative marine nuvo 38 gallon which is 24 inches along and 19 high. I have 1 male black molly along with 2 females as well as 6 sterbai corries. I would like to use an
angel fish a "center piece" so to speak; and I was wondering if an angel would be compatible in this smaller tank.
<Singleton Angels (farmed Angels, anyway) can be kept in tanks from 20 gallons upwards, provided there's a good 30 cm/12 inches of water depth. So you should be fine, assuming the water chemistry suits all the species
If so, do different types of angels have different temperaments so I could get a less aggressive one?
<There is some variation among Angelfish varieties, with all-black Angels (in the past, anyway) identified as peculiarly aggressive, while some of the more inbred forms (such as Koi Angels) grow more slowly and tend to be more easily picked on than other sorts. In short: avoid keeping random twos or threes as these often devolve into one bully and the rest mere victims.
Also avoid the more inbred varieties. Silver Angels, Marbled Angels and Golden Angels, as well as mishmash crossbreeds of these, tend to be pretty reliable. Singletons are fine, mated pairs are fine, and groups of six or
more usually work out some sort of modus vivendi given enough space.
Unfortunately, you cannot sex Angels, so getting a pair means either buying a mated pair (expensive!) or rearing six and allowing them to pair off themselves (but even then, Angels occasionally pair off in same-sex pairs).>
And lastly is it OK to keep a single angel without a partner or others of the same sex?
<Absolutely, at least with farmed Angels. Altum Angels, wild Scalare Angels and so on are probably best kept as schools.>
Thank you for your help
<Most welcome, Neale.>

Brook or velvet     10/20/14
Hi, crew
Could you tell me if my clowns have Brooklynella or marine velvet? Pictures attached. Thank you.
<My guess is on Brook and/or Cryptocaryoniasis... def. not Velvet. I would treat w/ quinine per WWM.
Bob Fenner>

Goldfish spawn regularly, but eggs never hatch     10/20/14
I have somewhat of a puzzling issue. My fancy goldfish spawn every 3-4 weeks in my 50 gal aquarium (oddly, in the afternoon while I am at work, never at dawn), but the eggs never seem to develop past the visible-eyes/shadows stage. I tried hand spawning once, and the result was the same. The eggs are NOT infertile; they simply never hatch. I have tried various containers, including moving the eggs to a separate aquarium
and floating them inside a mesh breeder in the main tank, but inevitably, after several days they shrivel up and disintegrate, no matter the conditions (I have tried hatch temps between 68 and 75F). I am planning to
try Methylene blue next time, but the fungus doesn't seem to be setting in until after the eggs have started to wither away. The only additives in the water are Ultimate water conditioner, Flourish and Excel. Could any of
these be causing the problem?
<Water quality possibly; or that there's no male present, the eggs haven't been fertilized>
My last successful spawning was over a year ago, and I was wholly unprepared for it (I actually wrote to you - the title was "Goldfish laid eggs in aquarium; want to ensure best care for fry"). Those were my boyfriend's fish, and they haven't spawned since. The fish I am writing about now are my fish at my home tank, which I've had since February. If it helps, my water parameters for tank and tap are: 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 0 nitrate,
<How is NO3 rendered thus?>

8.1 pH, 13 drops GH, and 10 drops KH (using API drops). I do a 75% water change weekly, use a strong canister filter and have 4 goldfish (3 females and 1 male, all probably 2-3 years old).
<Mmm; should have more males than females for spawning>
I also wanted to mention an interesting observation. When I pick up my veiltail for gill exams, etc., who I suspect is doing the bulk of the spawning, she always releases some eggs. However, the eggs are not round
as I would expect; they are shaped irregularly. Does this mean they are simply not developed, or could there be a problem with her eggs?
<Could be>
I have never caught these fish in the act, but when I see eggs on the plants when I come home they are shaped normally (round). So, I suspect the eggs Panache releases when I pick her up are just undeveloped, but I just wanted to verify that.
Thank you!
<You might try separating the male until... bringing on spawning through a massive water change with cooler water.
Bob Fenner>
Re: Goldfish spawn regularly, but eggs never hatch     10/20/14

> Thanks Bob! I know, isn't it weird that my nitrates are always at 0? It > has been like this in every tank I've ever had, no matter what substrate  (or lack of substrate) I have. I did some research into this and it
appears > that I may have bacteria present in my tanks that are capable of consuming  nitrate. I have come across several other aquarists who have the same  phenomenon, but we haven't found any common factor that sticks out. The  only other unusual thing about my tank is that we have very hard water here, but I'm not sure if that could be related.
I bought most of my fish at auctions and was only aware of the sex of one, so it was just bad luck for breeding that I ended up with only one male. I do hope he doesn't have a fertility problem; that would be such a shame as he is a stunning purple butterfly.
I can certainly try separating my male and then doing a big water change with cooler water. For how many days should I separate him, and do I do the water change immediately after reintroducing him to the main tank?
<Keep the sexes separated permanently until you want to spawn them really.
The water change out can occur the same day. Bob Fenner>

How Much/How Often to Feed an Abalone?     10/20/14
Hello Bob & Company!
We’ve talked before, and I so appreciate your help - this time, my question relates to my abalone, Oscar. (“My abalone has a first name, it’s o-s-c-a-r-…”
I’ve had Oscar for almost a year now, and he’s grown from 4” to almost 6” resting length (longer when stretched out). He’s active for several hours a day, and does a fantastic job keeping the reef clear of algae. I made some mesh cages for macroalgae, which helps me offer him live food in addition to dried seaweed (he eventually clears the cages, and I refill them).
Here’s my question: how much and how often should Oscar be eating? He’s reached a point where he can plow a 6” x 2” square of dried seaweed in less than an hour, and I suspect he’d do it as often as I let him. I’ve been offering the seaweed 2-3 times a week, and letting him “graze” the tank (which is fairly algae-free, thanks to Oscar and the pair of turbo snails I keep with him) and get what he can from the macro-algae cages the rest of the week. I don’t want to overfeed him, because he’s such a lovely creature and I’d like him to have a long life - but I don’t want to starve him, either! I’d really appreciate any help you can offer.
<Really depends on temperature mostly... but I would keep on the schedule you've been using... it IS working>
Thank you! (I’ve included a photo of Oscar, and another that shows one of the algae cages.)
<Very nice. Thanks for sharing. Bob Fenner>

Fwd: ARRRRGH PESTS! Rectangular Gelatinous Clumps?!     10/19/14
Hi Bob, How's your day?!
<Mighty fine, 'cept the weather Kristy. Thanks>
Just checking in on the mystery of my 100's of rectangular gelatinous clumps (don't move) that keep floating up from the sand substrate in an established Fluval 6G freshwater tank ... CLEAR water (except for seed shrimp) and normal water parameters (soft acidic) ... with only 2 pygmy Corys and 3 algae eating shrimp 3 moss balls. Again tank has been minimally fed 2-3x's week for over 4 mth.s due to seed shrimp issue. Neale mentioned
something about how the clumps smash ... if you press your finger on them they disintegrate (smear) and are not spongy.
<Mmm; yes; I saw>
To confirm, you recommended that I wash the sand ... I DID wash the sand with gallons of filtered drinking water (not tap) and then replaced in the tank PLUS 25% water change. IT LOOKED Fabulous. The next am, I noticed the clumps starting to float up from sand substrate again but not as many...YET. So, I took my filter apart and rinsed everything with R/O water which took a TON of "accumulation" out from the bottom of the filter below the sponge ... was careful to just slightly rinse the sponge. Also, rinsed the 3 moss balls in another bowl of R/O water and the water ran clear on them and as they weren't dirty/smelly as some report. I figured all the goop in the bottom of the filter was the culprit. However, now I'm back up to removing via net at least 50 clumps EVERY FEW HOURS (several times a day). They've increased over the week. When I net them out I do not upset the sand substrate as I net around mid-tank level. I have a sponge cover over my filter intake because of the shrimp. Filtration on medium. These clumps float up when the Corys or shrimp pass and when I swing the net around.
What do you think? How do I get rid of this stuff. It's not fecal matter because nothing has changed over past 4+ months. Also, the sand, filter, moss balls, and a few rocks are rinsed. HELP! And thanks again.
<Same as before... perhaps adding another particulate filter (a hang-on power?) will "do the trick" here. Bob Fenner>
Re: ARRRRGH PESTS! Rectangular Gelatinous Clumps?!     10/19/14

Ok thank you. I'm confused about how this can develop in an established and now rinsed tank literally overnight. Have a beautiful day !
<I'd still be looking at these zots under a microscope... B>

Copper Power... using WWM      10/19/14
Hi Crew. I have been looking into a product called Copper Power, by Endich Inc. I can't find any info on this med. I'm wondering what kind of test kit I would use with this? API maybe? This med also claims to be safer than others. Any truth to this? Please give me your thoughts on this product.
Thank you,
>Use the search tool on WWM... before writing us. Bob Fenner>
Copper Power     10/19/14

I did use the search tool before writing! I'm sorry that I didn't feel like
searching for hours
<... takes seconds to minutess to find what's archived re this product. I did it myself>
before finding an answer. Is it too much to ask your thoughts on the product, and what kit to use?
<Is a worthwhile product... that is, has its applications...>
Wouldn't have taken much more time to respond with a helpful answer, other than just referring me to search. Have a good night.
<And you. BobF>

Re: Final additions to tank      10/19/14
Many thanks. Would other Chromis be compatible e.g. Orange lined or Blue Reef?
<Easier going species; yes; though I would just stick with one schooling species of Pomacentrid in this size, shape system. BobF>


dying Sebae anemone?    10/18/14
I have been reading your site and am impressed. I have a Sebae Anemone that has not attached for the month it's been here, and I think it is dying. I am looking for advice. It looked like it was starting to fall apart so I took it out, but if it has a chance I'd like to try saving it before it's too late. Also, if it is hopeless, should I euthanize it?
<... can't tell w/o more data... a pic perhaps? If it's falling apart I'd flush it. Bob Fenner>
Please Help!
e: dying Sebae anemone?    10/18/14
So sorry, I had meant to include this photo. Thank you for getting back to me.
<.... this Heteractis crispa is gone>
I did smell it and it doesn't smell particularly foul yet, just sort of saltwater-aquarium-y. I checked my water parameters and the ammonia is a bit off at .25. I put some Amquel in. Nitrates are at 40 ppm.
<... you're joking>
I am ashamed to say that it is in a 5 gallon tank that is very new with one Dottyback and a few small turbo snails. I know it is too small and young a tank, but I am afraid to put in my 75 gallon where it might die and kill my other fish. Besides, the 75 was just upgraded two months ago from a 6 month old 20 gallon. So, I know I should have taken it back to LFS and may still try if they would take it.
<Should have never purchased in the first place. BobF>
Best regards,

Healthy MI sudden death    10/18/14
I’m writing because I just lost my Moorish idol within hours and I’m wondering if anyone else has had this unique experience and what you think about this:
<Zanclus die... of shock very commonly. See WWM re>
I have a very healthy established saltwater tank (300 gal softie reef) with 40 gal sump and an addtl’ 40 gal refugium. 4” sand bed. I’ve been in SW for 8 years & FW for my life time. (from Florida originally) Oh, and I’m 45 y/o. So, although no expert, very experienced. IMHO.
Okay, having said that, I brought home my first Moorish idol 13 months ago. He has THRIVED. Fat, eats everything I feed him, eats out of my hand. Lives with 2 tangs . red scooters, fairy wrasse, gobies & magnificent Rabbitfish. No problems. Sleeps with my orange shoulder tang (who I've had for 7 years). I recently bought macro algae to make my MI’s diet more exciting. Among the algae I put in the tank and/or my refuge about 1 week ago: bottlebrush, mermaid fan, more Chaeto (have a ton!) and….. macro Eucheuma Spinosum. The latter was in the main tank for approx. a week, not touched. Last night, I get home from work and notice the “orange sized algae” bunch of the Eucheuma is gone. Tiki (my MI) is happily swimming around with an even fatter belly than usual. My husband & I laughed & I saw him at 9pm doing his night routine and I went to bed. I woke up this morning and he was dead.
No parameter changes in my tank, no one else is sick, no illness WHATSOEVER in my tank. I’m heartbroken. Truly. So I am hoping to share this experience & maybe learn as a hobby.
I believe the algae was toxic. I did some research & this is the algae that has controversial (for furry pets) issues… “carrageenan”
<Mmm; could be>
It’s sold commonly in the saltwater aquarium trade, probably most (in fact this is stated) fish don’t like it & it’s a great nitrate/PO4 absorber. But I'm wondering if my pig MI was killed by eating it all at once… and ate a lot. Again, he had NO, zero changes prior in behavior, look or eating habits. Fat and robust as ever.
What do you think about this?
<A theory; could be tested>
☹ I feel horrible about it. Maybe it can be a learning experience for anyone successfully (tentative use of that term) keeping idols.
I would very much appreciate your thoughts & any questions.
<Keep bier in cool, dark places>
Thanks so much for your time, Lisa
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Final additions to tank    10/18/14
Hi there
Over the past 8-10 months I have gradually added my selected stock to my 500 litre tank. All seems well but just wanted to check my final additions.
I have currently: 3 x Chromis viridis, 1 x Gramma loreto, 2 x Amphiprion percula, 1 x Zebrasoma flavescens, plus one Cleaner Shrimp, one Peppermint shrimp and a tuxedo urchin. From my research I am adding next 1 x Centropyge bispinosus then 2 x Gobiosoma oceanops. However, having researched many places I have found very mixed views on Azure Damsels (C. hemicyanea.) I was thinking of adding 5 of these as my last additions.
<Mixing the two Damsel species might prove too much for the less-sturdy Blues>
They would be smaller than any of my existing stock and I was planning to add last. Whilst never any guarantees, I would value your view given the love them/hate them divisions I have come across
Many thanks Rob
<All the rest are very likely fine... You must be the final arbiter in deciding whether the Azures are worth the risk.
Alternatively I'd consider a small group of Cardinals. Bob Fenner>

FW: Paraguard Personal View.     10/17/14
I would like to say the fish are all 100% well which is excellent news as the medication, SeaChem Focus and Metronidazole only arrived today some 5 weeks after ordering it. I am therefore of the belief that if you catch
Whitespot early, just a few visible spots and can create water current in all areas of the tank via several pumps etc the number of pumps depending on the size of the tank a working UV whose input area is in the central
water flow area will cure it.
<Mmm; yes; given that the fish/hosts are not "too" debilitated>
My UV is only a budget model a SunSun JUP-01 (I do not have any connection to SunSun just own the UV) but all I can say is the Whitespot is gone.
Having lost to Whitespot many times over the last 30 years and then won with copper but the said effects of copper killing many algae and it toxicity to inverts make this method a much better way. Remember the UV
turns over the tank theoretically every 10 mins which I think is also a factor.
<You can read my similar comments on WWM under the FAQs files on Infested Reef and Fish Tanks>
<Welcome. BobF>

Platy problems     10/17/14
We set up a new 48 gallon aquarium April 2014 and after cycling the tank added 6 platys and 3 Danios to get started, losing one of each in the first 6 weeks.
<Oh dear.>
At the end of June my daughter brought home her first grade classroom guppies (which had been kept with snails that I did not put in our tank).
I kept them separated for a while but I am now worried it was not long enough. The Danios still seem to be doing well and growing. The guppies are reproducing regularly, but something is wrong with the platys. We have lost one platy a month for the last 3 months and are now down to the last guy.
<Hmm... if the other fish are fine, you may have got a "bad bunch" from the retailer. Livebearers are often produced to a price rather than a quality, and while Platies aren't the worst offenders, they're not as bulletproof as
they once were. To recap: Platies need hard, alkaline water. They must not be too warm (22-25 C/72-77 F). They dislike strong water currents. They are herbivores, so do best on algae-based flake food. Bullying can be a
problem, so keep at least two females per male, and if you keep more than one male, keep three or more, not two.>
He was a large, robust bully for months but lately has been hanging out on the bottom under a rock and a few days ago I noticed he has a white thing a few millimeters long sticking out from under his left side fin.
<Not faeces come out of his anus? Hmm... could be many things, simply dead skin from physical damage and an external parasite such as Anchor Worm to name but two. Try dipping the fish in seawater for 2-20 minutes (basically, for as long as it takes before he gets too stressed or rolls over). A seawater dip is aquarium water to which is added 35 gram of salt per litre.
Cooking sea salt works fine, though aquarium salt is probably better. No need to buy marine aquarium salt though. If the parasite is external, daily dipping thusly should shift it.>
A local fish store recommended "ParaGuard".
<A worthwhile "treats all sorts of things, if not especially well" product.>
I have been treating the tank daily all week, and giving the platy a dip in more concentrated treatment each night but have seen no change. I did not notice this on any of the other platys who died. They all seemed to
lose weight quickly and the first also had a bent spine before dying.
<Wasting and bent spines typically indicate Mycobacteria, of which more is said elsewhere on WWM. Basically untreatable. More often than not a subset of species kept by aquarists are vulnerable, and in your case, it seems the Platies were probably infected at the retailer, and some shortcoming in aquarium conditions triggered their rapid decline.>
I am having trouble determining the cause and why only the platys are affected. I do a 25-30% water change each month and the water parameters have been fine. Is the ParaGuard the best course of treatment? How long
should I continue?
Thank you very much for your help,
<Do you best for the Platy, and review conditions as noted. But realistically, if he doesn't pull through, I'd avoid this species in the future, or at least avoid store-bought ones. Cheers, Neale.>

Tank not flush     10/17/14
Hi again guys! Sorry to bug. I'm the guy with the standard 55 that was off about 1mm in 3 corners when sitting on its stand.
<Ah yes>
I read the link you provided and I have now placed a 1/2" piece of foam (Owens Corning EPS) between the tank and stand.
This helped a little. I can now slide a credit card in between the foam and tank with a little effort. (About half the gap as before)
I haven't filled the tank at all yet.
<Do so... the gap should close handily. No problem>
Should I start to fill the tank and see if it flushes out?
Toss the tank and start over? The tank itself (the frame at least) appears level.
I'm sorry to bother again but I haven't a fish store any where near me. And with two young daughters in the home I don't want to take any chances.
Thank you for your time.
It is GREATLY appreciated.
Dad of two.....
<As long as the stand (and floor underneath) are otherwise sturdy, level and planar, all should be well. Bob Fenner>

Fish Compatibility     10/17/14
I know that there are hundreds of charts telling you which species will get along with which other species, generally. However I have yet to find a site that will tell you which wrasse will get along with which other wrasse or which angelfish will get along with which other angel.
<Too many variables... size of system, size and sex of individuals, who's introduced in what order...>
I have a Melanurus (Hoevans) Wrasse and a Red Head Salon Fairy Wrasse right now. I was wondering if it would cause a problem if I added a McCosker's Flasher Wrasse, will they get along or fight? I have a 120
gallon mixed reef tank.
<In this size, shape system I'd stick with one of the species, mix in some initial phase or unsexed individuals of that one. Bob Fenner>

Upcoming LA Fishguys     10/17/14
Hi Bob, Unless I have changes from other advertisers these are the links to the, unlisted until Saturday, upcoming videos
featuring the Kessil LED Light installation on Scotts 500 gallon reef tank.... Episode 136,
This Little Light of Mine Part 1 http://youtu.be/bSIsTbcHnsk  
Part 2 http://youtu.be/19VJHux9aak  
Part 3 http://youtu.be/8cTbjT9qXfU  
Your commercial is in part two Jim Stime, jr
<Real good. BobF>
Aquarium Design - Installation and MaintenanceMidwater Systems

Requesting To Add My Aquarium Website on wetwebmedia.com     10/17/14
Dear Webmaster,
<Will add to the commercial fabricators area. Bob Fenner>
I recently visited your website and found it to be really interesting and informative. While I was browsing through, I noticed your links page (http://wetwebmedia.com/WWMAdminSubWebIndex/general_links_pg.htm ), which
features many informative resources. I would like to suggest 'SeaQuatic Aquariums' as an additional resource which offers Custom Aquarium for sale.
I think it would be a nice addition for visitors to view; and of course, browsing is free.
SeaQuatic Aquariums allows users to search for a wide range of array of custom aquariums. It specializes in the design of custom aquariums of 500 gallons and above. Following is an html link that I have prepared for your
<a href="http://www.seaquaticaquariums.com">Custom Aquariums</a>
Feel free to contact me at punit@seaquaticaquariums.com if you need any additional information. Thank you.
SeaQuatic Aquariums

Re: Harlequin Tusk     10/17/14
Hi again. I have another question. If I do have to treat the tusk, is quinine sulfate ok? I know different fish are affected by different meds. I just want to be prepared.
<S/b fine; Labrids are no more/less sensitive than other fish families. Bob Fenner>


Emperor Angel with a pimple?    10/15/14
Hi everyone.i have a beautiful juvenile emperor in my quarantine (its a 125 gal tank, ammonia ans nitrite 0, pH 8.0, nitrates about 20 (going to do a water change as soon as im done typing this),he is about 4 inches , eats from my hand just about anything i offer -he is currently beeing treated with Cupramine (test it daily and keep it at 0.4),
<Mmm; Pomacanthids don't "like" copper exposure. This spot may well just be a bit of congealed body mucus. Unless you have real reason for such treatment... I'd remove the Cu... See WWM re this species, family, quinine cpd. use>
He 's been there for about 3 weeks and no signs of ich anymore ,however yesterday i noticed a small pimple-like spot on his body .i tried taking a picture but he wouldn't hold still for a second .he doesnt seem to be bothered by it but i don't want it get worse.please let me know what you think.
thak you in advance
<I would not be concerned re this mark. Bob Fenner>

Is this Cyano or Dinoflagellates? Using WWM? 8 megs of pix... sigh   10/15/14
Hi everyone,i have recently started having issues with my red sea tank.Its 34 gal ,been set up for about 2 years.Parameters are Ammonia/Nitrite-0 ,Ph 8.2,Dkh 9.2 / 3.3 Meg/l,nitrate 0-2.
<... do you have measurable HPO4/phosphate? Need some... you may well be starving your purposeful livestock, and opportuning the pest algae here>
The tank has a mix of lps,sps and some softies along with a couple of macro algaes. This brownish thing seem to be killing my macro algaes and my palm tree polyps (I had a 6 inch colony with almost nothing left now) and now it seems to be on my star polyp which causes it to not open anymore. i cleaned off the power head yesterday (took it out and took it apart and washed it in hot water, and took out and rinsed of some of these rocks last night and today this stuff is back.Please help me properly id this stuff.Also any tips on getting rid of it would be helpful too.
<Can't tell what this is w/o sampling and looking at w/ a microscope... as gone over and over on WWM, books and articles I've penned. Might be both; could be a mix of these and other protists. "Tips" are easily searched on WWM.


Re: Harlequin Tusk   10/15/14
Thanks Bob. So in the long run with the Red Breasted Wrasse and the Tusk, do you think I will have issues?
<Quite possibly; yes>
If so, maybe I will give the Red Breasted Wrasse away. It is a nice fish, but I think the tusk is nicer :).
<Better for systems of your size as well>
Also, how long do you think I should keep the tusk in QT? 4 weeks?
<You're at the point of diminishing returns now... more than two weeks is about this; unless there is some compelling concern>
Thanks again.
<Welcome. BobF>

Raised corners   10/15/14
Good day, kind sir. I have a standard glass 55 and I built my own stand.
The stand is level as all get out. As I started filling the tank I noticed that 3 of the 4 corners of the tank do not sit flush. They are roughly 1 mm off the stand.
<Mmm; even when the tank is filled completely? I would place a thin piece of foam under the tank frame to cushion, even out a bit>
The short side between two of the corners (front to back) also appears to be 1 mm off. I was given this tank from a friend and it's an older (15-20 yr) tank that has been resealed. Is it possible for the tank to actually
warp a bit?
<Ah; yes... glass itself is a super-cooled liquid... it does bend, flow a bit... and the Silastic will give a smidgen>
And if so is it safe to continue to fill and use?
<Likely so, but I would still... Let's have you read here:
see some of the queries/responses re such leveling issues>
Any info would be greatly appreciated...
Thanking you in advance,
Concerned father of two.
Re: Raised corners
Thank you so much for the advice, sir. I will be sure to read up. Thanks for the link.
Also thanks for an amazing site. I find it informative and educational.
Thank you again...
<Certainly welcome. BobF>
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

? re a bocourti central American cichlid with bizarre issue   10/15/14
Sick Central American Cichlid

I have a large bocourti which is about 8 years old. He was fine until recently. He had some whitish clumpy material on two scales and by the area where one fin came out of body, but that went away with antibiotics. I
also had a trimac which developed a whitish exudative material that came out of the area around its eye. He died after about month. Now my bocourti has similar material, looks like a white horn, coming out of one
area of its scales. Around the white area his scales are slightly red and look damaged. Is this a fungus? Or what?
I have photos if that helps. I hate to lose the fish. Sal
< The reddish scales are probably a bacterial infection. The whitish clumps may be a secondary fungal infection. The antibiotics you used may have affected the bacteria that provide the nitrification of the fish waste and you now may have elevated nitrogenous waste levels. I would recommend a water change and then clean the filters. Try to keep the water very clean and watch for any progress. Your cichlid is usually very tough so I would only recommend antibiotics as a last resort.-Chuck>

Yellow tang problem. Poor grammar, no reading   10/15/14
Hiya im hoping that u can help with a problem i have,my main tank was infected with marine ich and some of the fish were showing signs so i put them in a hospital tank and conducted hypo treatment for 6wks.
<Not a fan. Rarely works in the long term>
they have now been in normal s.g for the past two wks and all was fine except the last couple of days my yellow tang has rapid breathing and now a slight orange patch near her tail,she is still eating,i dont see any spots on her or any of the fish,your help would be much appriceated as im not sure what to do next,
<Search, read on WWM re these issues>
<Likely the Hypo destroyed too many hemocytes... only time and good care will show if this fish survives, the others remain Crypt free. Bob Fenner>
re: Yellow tang problem   10/15/14
Thank you for your quick response.would you reccomend a fw dip?or should i place her back into the dt and see if that helps?Again thank you for your
<I'd skip the dip and any further med. use, and place the fish back in the main/display. BobF>
thank you emma

Re: Angelfish and other assorted deaths.   10/15/14
Angelfish virus was one of the first 5 things that I thought it might have been, and I was horrified as this would of likely destroyed my tank. But from the little information that I can find on "Angelfish virus" I don't
think that it's a cross species virus?
<Not a virus, but the Protozoan mentioned>
Also lacks the clamped fins, and the often described "Dripping" slime coat.
I've noticed I have a molly that is skinny as a twig, so I'll keep an eye on him, and a juvenile angel behaving in a very shy fashion, hopefully it's not a recurrence.
"and naught "jumped out"? " Nothing that matched my symptoms, trouble breathing and sitting at the top of the water is surprisingly common it would seem, now I'm starting to realise why it's so hard to work out the
<Not w/o sampling (and often killing specimens) and microscopic examination>
Regarding the nitrates, it's hard to tell, I have an API liquid test kit, in date, which reads blood red, not matching to the chart.
<Too high... see WWM re>
And other test kits which state less than 10ppm, the tank is heavily planted.
<Mixed info. B>

lta retracting. Not using WWM    10/15/14
I picked up a green LTA the other day.
<Oh? Your system, water quality, tankmates, history please>
Brought him home and did a 30 min acclim and slow water add. I put it in his new home and it attached to a
piece of rock. Over the next few hours it moved down to the sand and attached to the bottom of tank and has stayed there. The next morning it retracted down to almost nothing and about 3 hours later it had refilled
and looked normal. Then again last night it did the same thing and this morning it is back to looking fine. Is this normal?
<Can be>
Thought I killed it. 1.024Sg 0 nitrate
<... need some and HPO4. Why don't people search, read ahead of writing us?>
0 nitrite ph 8.2 .25 ammonia. Did a 20% water change. Will it eat raw shrimp and fish. There are 2 oce clowns and 5 damsels 2 sally lightfoot crabs 1 green grab and 3 snails in the tank also. Tank is a 25 gallon
<Too small for a large Actinarian>
and has been running for about 6 months. Thanks for any information. Kent.
<Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm
and all the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

High Silica Reading   10/15/14
Due to a lot of diatom growth, I bought a Hanna Silica handheld test. My reading was 34 ppm. Is this acceptable?
<Yes; a bit high, but aquarists should not "fear" diatoms. Not harmful>
What’s the range to target? How do I reduce silica from the tank?
<Mainly via regular water changes and gravel vacuuming, replacement with water with less [Si]>
I use RO/DI for my water changes and my TDS meter reads 0.
<Ah yes... the Si02 from your substrate/s likely>
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Male Bolivian rams digging...     10/14/14
My question is regarding the behavior of Bolivian rams. All the material I was able to access on your site as well as the web seems to indicate that digging a spawning site is an action that occurs prior to spawning and by the female mostly.
<Hmm... not really. Both sexes may dig a bit, but spawning normally happens on flat stones and other smooth surfaces. Will vary, depending on what's in the tank.>
There seems to be the implication also that this occurs after a pair is formed.
<Somewhat. Both sexes look after the eggs and fry, as is usually the case where males and females look very alike.>
I have 2 male Bolivian rams and a male ramirezi is the same tank. Tank temperature is constant at 26 degrees Celsius
<Not ideal for the Common Ram cichlid.>
and the tank also houses harlequin Rasboras, lamb chop Rasboras, Ancistrus albinos (Bristlenose catfish) and 2 albino cories (aeneus albinos, not paleatus based on body and fin shape). The males chase each other around from their territories but there are no injuries.
Today when I came from the weekend, I noticed a huge crater in the middle of my aquarium about 4 cm deep. I had read about spawning behaviour of Ramirez's and rams and so I was surprised when I saw this.
<Indeed. Not uncommon, but they prefer to lay their eggs on a suitable flat stone somewhere quiet. But failing that, yes, they will make spawning pits.
It isn't uncommon for male cichlids to make these pits as a way of attracting the female. So while what you see isn't normal, it isn't unusual either.>
I apologise for the long write-up, but my question is: is it possible that a male ramirezi or ram dug up this spawning site singly and without a female present, or is it more likely that one of the "males" is actually a
<Well, it's true that sexing Bolivian Rams isn't easy! But usually, the male is a bit bigger, a bit more colourful, and has fins (especially the dorsal and anal) that are a bit longer than those on the female. On the
other hand, they tend to form pairs easily enough, even in the tropical fish shop! So observing behaviour should be a good indicator what's going on. In short, sit back, observe, and wait and see what happens! Cheers, Neale.>

Harlequin Tusk; hlth., comp.     10/14/14
Hi Crew. I his email finds you well.
<Yes; thank you Michael>
I picked up a nice Australian Harlequin Tusk four days ago. Around 5 inches. I have him in a 55 gallon QT. Very active fish. Eating from day one. Eats everything to include Mysis, silversides, prawns, clams, and NLS pellets. This is actually my second tusk I am trying. First one I had for around six weeks and laid on its side for two weeks, then final go straight up and swam a little. I thought it was just a timid fish. Only got him to eat Mysis at night when lights were off. After 5 weeks in QT, I put in the display but within 2 days the other fish got to him since all he did was lay in the open and he eventually died last a week ago. I assume something was wrong. I never saw signs of disease but did treat with PraziPro and Quinine Sulfate.
<Mmm; sorry for your loss>
Now my questions on the new tusk. If I see no signs of disease should I treat with PraziPro and Quinine Sulfate as a precautionary measure?
<I would not. Australian specimens are generally very tough, and clean. No sense impugning its health with medications if not necessary>
I would do the treatments at separate times. I was planning to do two back to back five day treatments of PraziPro, wait a week, and then do a single 7 day treatment of Quinine Sulfate. I just wanted to get your
thoughts on this.
<You have them. By and large am not a fan of prophylactic treatment by hobbyists. Most all "easily knocked off" pathogens should be dealt with by "dealers" (wholesalers mostly, perhaps collectors, transhippers to lesser degrees). Internal complaints... Need to be addressed on a scenario to circumstances basis>
I plan on putting the tusk in a 150 gallon FOWLR. I do have a 8" Red Breasted Wrasse in there that did show aggression towards my last Tusk.
<Yes... not a good tankmate for each other... Cheilinus, Oxycheilinus and Choerodons routinely don't get along>
I also have a 7" porc puffer and a 7" V. Lionfish in there. From what I saw, the puffer and lion fish left the tusk alone. I was thinking of taking the Red Breasted Wrasse out and put in QT for a week when I go to
put the tusk in there.
<Worth trying>
Or I can just put the tusk in and if I see aggression from the wrasse, then try and net the wrasse and put in QT.
<Up to you. I would separate them somehow for a week or two>
This tusk is so active and the way he eats, I think he would put up a fight and deter any aggression unlike the last one. Please let me know your thoughts on this too. The tusk has another 5 to 6 weeks in QT so I am not un any rush.
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>

Re: Musk Turtle Concerns     10/12/15
I just want to check in with some new symptoms Franklin seems to have developed. We are considering taking him to a vet but only pet emergency is open today and tomorrow in our city.
<Don't take him to an emergency vet.>
- whole body shakes
- mouth breathing
- very lethargic (he had trouble walking and ended up rolling onto his back at one point)
- He has been spending 95% of his time on his basking spot (he slept on it last night)
- He has started scratching his head
- He doesn't seem very responsive (he didn't panic when we picked him up to move him off his back).
As for right now, he did manage to climb the large rock on his basking dock and is sunning himself.
<OK - I am officially upgrading from "concerned" to CONCERNED. These are not normal or expected behaviors and Franklin is, to some extent, sick. For reasons I can't explain I'm thinking a calcium deficiency.>
<The very first order of business is to dry-dock him as explained in the link I sent. Right now - warm and MOIST is his enemy, not his friend. Keep him dry, warm 24 hours a day and under the UVB lamp for at least 14 hours a day. Remember we want him warm, but not BAKED. If you are lucky enough to find a heating pad at a drug store that does not have that horrible "Auto-Off" feature - buy it and use that under the cardboard box. Start on Medium heat, try to get his basic substrate into the high 80's to 90 (but not higher than 93). Every day place Franklin in a saucer of cool water just barely up to the bottom of his chin (so that he has to put his head down a bit to drink) and let him soak for 10 minutes.>
<Meanwhile, search your area for a veterinarian that specifically offers reptiles in his practice. But remember, keeping Franklin warm and dry will be the cornerstone of a professional treatment as well. I'd suggest a Calcium/Glucose injection (in a TINY amount) and an injection of Danofloxacin 6 mg/kg, SQ>
Thank you for your time,

Link to: Last Few Days Accrued FAQs

Marine Aquarium Articles and FAQs Master Index

  • Set-Up 1: Types of Systems:, Gear/Components:, Set-Up, Tanks, Stands, Covers:, Water, Seawater, Substrates, DSBs, Electricity, Heating/Chilling, Aquascaping, Biotopes, Travelogues.
  • Set-Up 2: Filtration of All Sorts, Skimmers, Sumps, Refugiums, Plumbing, Circulation, Pumps, Powerheads, Aeration & Light/Lighting:.
  • About Livestock: Regional Accounts:, Collection, Selection:, Stocking:, Disease Prevention: Dips/Baths, Acclimation, Quarantine, Behavior:, Territoriality:, Reproduction:
  • Non-Vertebrate Sea Life Identification, & Microbes, Algae, Plants, Live Rock & Sand, Sponges: Hitchhikers, IDs, Marine Microbes, Plankton, Live Rock & Sand, Marine Algae, Marine Plants, Sponges, phylum Porifera,
  • Cnidarians I. Corals to Hobbyists, Stinging-Celled Animals 1: Cnidarians Overall; Hydrozoans: Jellies, Hydroids, Anthozoans; Octocorals: Organ Pipe, Blue Coral, Star Polyps, Sea Fans, Sea Pens and Soft Corals
  • Cnidarians II. Corals to Hobbyists, Stinging-Celled Animals 2: Anthozoans; Hexacorals: Mushrooms, Zoanthids, Anemones, Stony Corals, Tube Anemones, Black Corals
  • Higher Invertebrate Life: Bryozoans, Worms of all kinds, Mollusks (Snails, Nudibranchs, Octopodes), Crustaceans (Crabs, Shrimp, Lobsters...), Echinoderms (Urchins, Sea Cucumbers, Seastars, Brittlestars...), Sea Squirts,
  • Fishes, Index 1: Sharks, Rays, Skates; Marine Eels; Marine Catfishes; Squirrelfishes, Soldierfishes, Lionfishes, Stonefishes, Gurnards, Sculpins; Anglerfishes, Seahorses & Pipefishes, Blennioid & Gobioid Fishes, Mandarins, Clingfishes, Wrasses and Parrotfishes,
  • Fishes, Index 2: Butterflyfishes, Cardinalfishes, Grammas, Grunts, Sweetlips, Snappers, Goatfishes, Jawfishes, Big-Eyes, Basses, Anthias, Dottybacks, Roundheads, Soapfishes, Damselfishes, Clownfishes, Monos, Hawkfishes, Croakers, Emperors, Threadfins, Sandperches, Miscellaneous Percoids,
  • Fishes Plus, Index 3: Marine Angelfishes, Tangs/Surgeons/Doctorfishes, Scats, Batfishes, Rabbitfishes; Triggers, Files, Puffers, Flounders, Halibuts, Soles, Really Old Fishes, Marine Reptiles, Marine Mammals,
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