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Hymenocera elegans Tropical Indo-West Pacific; Red Sea to Australia. Here in N. Sulawesi (Lembeh Strait). Body spots are brown circled in Blue. Occur almost always in pairs. Live in shallow water feeding on echinoderms, principally seastars. Bali 2014 
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General FAQs
Updated 9/30/2016
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Daily Q&A replies/input from the WWM crew: Earl Clay III, Darrel Barton,
Neale Monks, Marco Lichtenberger, Lynn Zurik, Chuck Rambo, Bob Fenner, are posted here. Moved about, re-organized daily
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Scorpionfishes: Lionfishes & Much More for Marine Aquariums
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by Robert (Bob) Fenner
PLEASE: Write reviews of my works on Amazon! I need your input. BobF

Re: Popeye on clown        9/30/16
Mr. Fenner, thank you replying so quickly. In your honest opinion, should I just let her heal naturally. She shows no sign of any distress and her eye is clear. I have attached 2 photos. Truthfully, although I read about adding Epsom salts to the tank, I did not see any explanation as to why it would be beneficial other than speeding up the healing process.
<Mmm; as with human use... MgSO4 is a "muscle relaxant" and vasodilator... my thinking (okay, guessing) is that it allows more blood flow... aiding
repair in the highly vascularized areas esp., like fish eyes>
I prefer not to use chemicals and in the 6 years of this tank running, have only used a chemical, PraziPro, once and that was due to what was thought to be a parasite but turned out to be a streamer of algae on tangs barb. I highly valve <and value I hope!> your opinion on this and only want to do the best for my tanks' inhabitants.
<Mmm; seeing these pix; and if this fish, system were mine, I would hold off on actual treatment, salt use. As you've stated, with general good care, nutrition... this fish should heal of its own accord. BobF>
Thank you again,
Kellie Kyser
So Mote It Be
<Still moting?>

Re: Popeye on clown        9/30/16
Thank you sir and, as always, much appreciation for your knowledge and time. Have a wonderful day ��
Kellie Kyser
<And you Kel. B>
So Mote It Be

Moon Jellies        9/30/16
Hi Crew,
<Cathy>
Very grateful for the site.
<Glad to hear you use us as a resource... Don't forget to spread the word
:)>
I have a cubic setup for jellyfish it has been set up for 10 months.
<Not ideal for jellies, but that's okay. Most jellies do best in a round tank, like a circle on its side.>
The problem I am having is a pod explosion.
<Copepod, I assume?>
They are everywhere, I know wish it was my display tank but no has to be jelly tank.
<Aquarist problems :) I've had this happen with Coraline algae a lot. It grows in my refugium, but not my display tank.> Anyway, the problem seems to be that as jellyfish don't actively seek out their food they just sort if bump into it so they are full with pods. I don't think they can digest the pods due to the shells ( I think ).
<They should be able to digest them, but I would add another plankton of some sort to their diet as well>
Therefore they are shrinking, starving. I have done water change after water change can't put a dent in the pod population the balancing act due to the sensitivity of the jelly fish to minor changes in water chemistry is making it stressful as well. I have used a filter sock to just filter the existing water through as well but that didn't help either. Short of pulling down the whole setup and taking out all the biological media and starting again do you have any suggestions? If I strip out the system and re-set up how do I cycle without biological media? ( currently have a piece of live rock and some small bio tubes in chamber). Please help started with 1 large moon jelly fish, 2 medium, and 1 small, down to large turned medium, 1 medium, minute 2 disappeared.
Thank you
Cathy Napoli
<So sorry about your losses, Cathy. Could you inform me of the tank size, water quality, salinity, etc., as well as some pictures of the jellies? My advice for now would be to get a turkey baster and suck out as many pods as you can. Set them in another tank or holding container. I would begin to spot-feed the jellies with the baster instead of hoping they will hunt on their own. This will ensure they get food to their little bodies. Please do send pictures and the aforementioned information. In the meantime, read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/jellysysfaqs.htm  and  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/jellyfdgfaqs.htm  Hope to hear back soon. Cheers, Gabe.>

 

Re: Restarting an Emperor 400        9/30/16
Hi Earl,
Thank you for the detailed explanation. I was able to get some time to try it tonight and unfortunately it didn't work. I filled the intake tube with water, capped the bottom, and inserted the top end into the filter. I also had the filter filled as high as I could with water. I double-checked that the intake was firmly in its tube and had my wife hit the switch.
Unfortunately, the same thing happened. The water that was in there pumped out and there was no new water coming in. My hand under the intake in the tank felt little to no suction. Might I need a new impeller? This is weird because my 280 on the same tank is working fine, so it's something specific with the 400.
Jon Mathews
<Hmmm sorry I couldn't help more. What is the condition of the filter? Perhaps take the impeller out of there and soak it vinegar and clean off any deposits.>

Columnaris Denisonii Barb/Redwag Platy        9/30/16
Hi,
<Orlando>
I noticed one of my denisonii barbs, and Redwag Platy had lesions, which I assumed was columnaris.
<Mmm; maybe.... what re cause here? Such infections don't occur w/o environmental prompting>
I did a lot of research and the common theme, I found, in treatment for columnaris was reducing temperature, salt, KanaPlex, MetroPlex, and furan2.
I moved the barb and platy from my 75g to my 10g hospital tank, and began medicating the water with furan2, salt, and feeding KanaPlex/MetroPlex.
The platys dent/lesion has lost the white line in the dent, and seems to be doing fine. My barb, on the other hand, developed even more lesions, but is very active and eating well.
For the second round of medications, I medicated the water with furan2, salt, KanaPlex/MetroPlex (I did not dose food).
I repeated the first round of medication, making it 3 total rounds of medication.
My barb has not developed any new lesions for about 5 days, and my platy looks normal. My question is when do I know my barb and platy are healthy enough to go back into my main tank?
<I'd wait a good few weeks beyond when these "lesions" are gone>
I've had them in my hospital tank for 3 weeks, and I feel the barb (4.5inches) is getting a bit stressed in the 10gal, and without his school.
Thank you!
<Keep changing some (a few gallons) of water daily... From their main/display system. Bob Fenner>

CONTACT        9/30/16
Hi,
I would like to know if you still have contact of Joaquin Meier from Argentina, we have an interesting offer about a reef. Hope you consider to send us his information.
Regards,
Aquarium FishmAr
<We don't retain anyone's contact information unless they expressly request it be posted to our sites.
Bob Fenner>

Re: Restarting an Emperor 400        9/29/16
<Well first things first, starting with what may be the obvious but it sounds like you have air trapped in the intake, breaking the siphon.>
Ok, yeah, but how do I reengage the siphon. Priming the filter has always worked before. And I have checked the seal to see if there is anything wrong (cracks, holes, etc.) with the connection and can't find anything. Is there some trick I am not aware of to get it going? One the intake is attached to the impeller, the siphon should engage, assuming everything
else is correct.
Jon Mathews
<When I've had this problem, I fill the filter up with a cup as full as I can, then submerge the whole intake tube/pipe separately (in the tank). Then cap the top end with your fingertip, making sure to leave the intake/bottom end below the tank waterline. Set the top end without letting air inside into the filled filter below the water line inside the filter, then fit it into the slot over the impeller. Pretty much exactly like using a siphon hose to get water from a bucket or whatnot into something else lower down. In short, the pump in the filter may not have the muscle to pull the water up with enough force to push out any air trapped inside so you need to set up the siphon manually. I am possibly making this sound
more convoluted than it is...the key thing is just to submerge the whole pipe and tap out the air bubbles, and never let either end out of the water without capping the upper end with your finger until you can submerge that end into the filter body and take your finger off. Getting that totally airtight may be slightly tricky, but no biggie. Make sure you have good
light.
I drain a tank from a water line about 5' down to a bucket on the floor for water changes and let me tell ya, if there is the tiniest but of air in the hose, Grrrr. If this doesn't work then we can troubleshoot further.>

Re: Clawed Frog, Some Kind of Infection?        9/29/16
I think the tetracycline treatment has been successful. The redness around the snout has gone away for the most part and the nostril appears normal
now. The swelling appears to be gone too.
<Great! Lovely to hear some good news from our correspondents... it's usually "oh noes, my fish is sick!" Hope the froggy gets completely better before too long. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: disease help        9/29/16
Thank you.
<Welcome>
I will read through this and hope that something is similar to what is going on here.
<Am hopeful "something" will become clear/er to your conscious thus>
The shop came by today. They have not seen a thing like this.
It seems platies are having all kinds of problems. Perhaps a hardier fish in the future for my kids.
<Agreed. Mainstream livebearers (mollies, platies, guppies, swordtails) are rubbish compared w/ decades back. Consider small danios, Rasboras, barbs.... See/read on WWM re FW livestocking. B>
Re: disease help        9/29/16

Thank you very much. I just wish I knew exactly what this horrible issue was exactly.
<Stop "saying no" to yourself... Closes off your mind to infinite possibilities. Study and learn, be satisfied that you ARE DOING your best to become yourself.
B>

Popeye on clown        9/29/16
Good morning! My clown injured her eye as she and her mate were doing the bump and rub.
<Good desc.>
I read on your site about doing a water change(done) and adding Epsom salts and wanted to verify the dosage of 1 tablespoon per 10 gallons.
<Yes; about right and safe...>
I have mushrooms and palm tree corals along with button polyps.
<Should work out for these as well. I will make the obligatory cautionary statement here re allelopathy and the need for regular maintenance to avoid triggering a cascade event>

The other fish are a yellow tang and 2 pajama cardinals. I will have to treat the whole tank (as trying to dislodge mama clown is like trying to reinvent the wheel) and wanted to make sure that the Epsom salts are safe for everyone. Thank you for your time,
Kellie Kyser
So Mote It Be
<Indeed. Bob Fenner>

A Rabble of Butterflyfishes - Please Expand. And getting out to see BFs in the wild          9/29/16
Greetings Bob,
<Hey Sarah>
I thoroughly enjoyed your recent piece in CORAL about butterflies and your experience in the Philippines - what an enthralling time that must have been.
<And still are!>
We've corresponded before regarding Chaetodons I've attempted to keep, some of which have been thriving to date. The reason I write now is in reference to your paragraph about hobbyist quarantine and suggesting to place butterflies immediately into the display.
<I see>
It states, "This standard operating procedure assumes that there are no established bullying livestock...and your butterflyfish is in good initial health. The preventative dip/bath mentioned should take care of external parasites..."
<I'd like to insert the word/s "hopefully (and) most" in front of "external parasites">
I find this conflicting because it is difficult to find specimen in good initial health.
<Mmm; okay... how 'bout another sub... "better" for "good"?>
I don't overdo quarantine, I prefer an established setup with some live rock, will utilize TTM, freshwater dips and deworming, usually Levamisole. But I have found that dips, even those with Formalin do not eradicate all present ectoparasites,
<This is so... esp. more deeply "embedded" Protozoans; some worms...>

leaving enough to potentially take hold in the aforementioned display.
So unless each fish had a skin scrape, I wouldn't be comfortable with the dip and place procedure. For ex, I recently I purchased a trio of pyramid butterflies from DD that had a very aggressive strain of Amyloodinium and dipped them daily as part of treatment and it only resolved 80-90% of parasites attached to the fish. If I would have initially dipped and placed these fish in the display, none of which had torn fins, reclusive behavior, heavy breathing, spots, dusty appearance upon arrival, I would have jeopardized C. tinkeri and a slew of others.
<Ewww>
So, theoretically, if all fish are in good initial health this method works and there's no need to further stress a fish
in qt possibly tipping the balance between health and disease, but some high mortality diseases aren't blatantly apparent immediately, even to the trained eye. Please explain your reasoning.
<You're compelling me to be more clear, erudite. Appreciated. My statements are intended for a "general audience" and some sort of "average" livestock, situation...
On the whole I will stick with your careful review of what I've written, presented on balance for the public... AS (I hope to be clearer here) for MOST folks, trials, BFs will be MORE impugned by delaying their introduction than their health guaranteed or restored (by quarantine, treatment there for parasites). Given the opportunity (as we are doing here, or better still in propria persona), I WOULD/DO consider your approach more beneficial, KNOWING/TRUSTING that YOU know "what you're doing". Understanzee?>
Additionally, where are your favorite places in the world to dive, snorkel even and observe butterflyfish?
<Gosh... there are a few.
Hawaii in general (here's that word again) for being convenient, close, known... esp. to see the endemic C. fremblii; all places in the "coral triangle" (Malaysia, P.I., Indo.... N. E Australia) for sheer diversity (and local abundance at times); and a great fave, the Red Sea... for endemism and coloration. Am going to try and find you on
Facebook, add you to our "Scuba Diving Friends" page... to share further.
Do look me up as well if interested, and send a friend request. I am Robert Fenner there>
Sincerely,
Sarah
<Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Candy Basslet Question, comp. w/ Wetmorella       9/28/16
Hello!
<Hi Cheri!>
I recently purchased a Candy Basslet (Liopropoma carmabi). I also have a Tanaka Possum Wrasse. I have noticed that the normally peaceful Tanaka seems to be very interested in the Candy Basslet, occasionally stalking the area where the Candy has his favorite hidey hole.
<Ah yes; a bit of competition, territoriality amongst these two reclusive species>
Also, once I saw him dart at the Candy when he came out. I know the "charts" say caution, but I figured given the peaceful nature of the Tanaka, that I would not have an issue. My question is, in your opinion, will this behavior on the wrasse's part subside?
<Mmm; maybe>
The tank is a 75 gallon with 100+ lbs of rock with lots of caves and overhangs.
<Well; would be less trouble with increasing size of the system; BUT if it were me/mine... as long as both fish are coming out occasionally, and you see them feed each time; I wouldn't be overly concerned here>
Thanks, again, for your help, and expertise...
Cheri
<A pleasure to share, honor to aid your understanding, efforts. Bob Fenner>
Re: Candy Basslet Question      9/28/16

If I decide to watch and wait, could the Tanaka do actual physical damage to the Candy, or would be more of a "show" of dominance?
<Some chance of damage; but not great IMEstimation>
(they are both, roughly the same length). I guess what I'm trying to ask is, am I taking a chance that the wrasse could actually kill the Candy?
<Small; but not negligible... Like Trump's chance of election. BobF>
Thanks!

Albino shark; beh; stkg     /Neale       9/28/16
Dear team
I have an aquarium with freshwater. I have kept two white albino sharks- babies.
<I assume you mean Epalzeorhynchos frenatum, the "Rainbow Shark".>
I noticed recently, probably it's been 2-3 days, that one of them is always in the hide-out, it swims sometimes around the sides of the tank, then it's v active, then again goes and lies without any movement in hide-out.
<What they do. These fish are territorial and generally kept singly unless the aquarium is fairly big. They like caves, and will tend to shoo away any similar fish that come into range. When not protecting their caves, they'll be off eating the algae and soft vegetables they like to eat.>
It remains in hide-out for hours, this worries me; will anything be wrong with it, please advise
Regards, Sangeeta
<Provided your fish is otherwise healthy and eating well, it's probably normal behaviour. Cheers, Neale.>

disease help. Panic in Detroit... whoo, whoo, whoo whoo!       9/28/16
Hello-
<Ter>
I cannot figure out what to do about our tank. The shop I use says we are doing everything right but yet we keep losing fish.
<Let's see... there are a few categories of "anomalous/mysterious losses" in terms of cause, appearance>
1) We test water every day. One a month it gets serviced. It gets freshened every week. We use aquarium salt.
<Test results please... what is included in this "service"? Do you change water weekly? How much? Why do you use "aquarium salt"?>
>The filter change, the cleaning, the water, the works. I do a small change weekly and test daily. We were told the platies like a tad of salt in their water.<
<<Ok>>
2)We have something in the tank as this started a year ago and takes out a fish every one at a time.
<.... something?>
>That something I think after a ton of reading is Mycobacteriosis<
3) It starts with a totally healthy fish slowing down. Swimming oddly, tilting, then will suddenly swim fast and "crash" into things. Stop eating. Stay near bottom. Then their body "deforms" and gets skeleton like and bends in half. Then it dies and it breaks our heart. Their tail and fins clamp in and look like they start to shrink.
<Good description>
4) I am now removing them from tank and separating them. Once removed they seem to improve.
<A good clue>
I am treat them with the parasite med and revive. They eat, but not much.
They have a large white potty that I am told is the parasite.
<Maybe... do you have a loupe, or low power microscope; esp. one you can connect via USB to take a pic to send?>
>No. I am a mom who tries to take the best care of the fish I can. I have no microscope. I can't get a photo because my camera cannot pick it up. And by the time someone would show up who might have that the string is gone.
And one would think the fish would them improve. But no, then they start bending in half and die. And it takes them awhile and nothing we do helps which makes you feel horrible.<
5) No one else sees it, but I swear half their body looks like it is not as shiny(back half). Like it has a very dusting of grey. But it is not super obvious and others say it is just my eyes.
<Mmm; could you send along a well-resolved photo of one of these fish?>
Most say they can't see it at all with their eyeballs. No way any camera is going to get this as it is just me knowing the fish. Most are babies that I ended up raising as the fish seem to think I am a fish breeder.
6) I have fed the food I was supposed to(medicated for three weeks now. I treated the tank as I was told. And yet it strikes yet another after a few weeks.
Can anyone please help me get whatever this is out of our tank?
<Could be that this is "something" pathogenic (involving a disease causing organism); but I suspect there is something in the tank itself... a decoration, substrate contaminant... that is poisoning your fishes. We/you could remove all items, experiment by putting each one in a separate system w/ some "test fish".... Myself, I'd place a pad of PolyFilter in your
filter/circulation path and note what (if any) color the pad changes to.
Need the above questions answered, the test results shown>
>The description of Mycobacteriosis is dead on what is going on here. After reading a very large article it appears there is no preventative, no treatment and no way to kill it. It also sounds like this brand new very expensive 26 gallon tank we got because of all the babies is garbage as it says disinfecting doesn't do the job. They call it fish TB and it can be
transmitted to humans.
I am in over my head.<
<<Mycobacteria are omnipresent... and rarely/never act alone as causes of mortality. Again; I suspect there is/are environmental factor/s at work here>>
If you know a fish vet or someone who has dealt with this who can be hired we are outside of Boston in Sudbury, MA. I will try because we feel awful but I see no options in this article at all.
I will ask the place I use to see if they can drop off a PolyFilter and get those results to you. We have an appointment next month.
Thank you for trying to help me. I honestly could cry. What a disaster this has turned out to be and I did everything I was told :(
<<Don't "catastrophize"; a solution may be near at hand. A useful clue would be what sort of life IS persisting here. B>>
Thank you,
Teresia
<Glad to help. Bob Fenner>
Re: disease help.... Platies      9/28/16

I don't know how to figure this out.
<Take your time.... of what IS known re fish diseases; most all is easy to understand w/ a bit of study>
In way over my head. The shop is bringing me a new med tomorrow.
<.... not likely to be of use. NOT a pathogen involvement here>
2 more fish sick now and one showing a tiny white spot on its back(no others have this). That makes one deformed and sideways, 2 sluggish, 1 deforming before my eyes. All platies.
<READ here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/platydisf5.htm
and the linked files above

If you know anyone near me who does know what he hell they are doing and how to tackle this by all means tell them I will pay for help.
Sorry I am having a hard time telling our conversations below apart as they color I added to my reply is now gone for some reason...
Teresia
<Read for now... for comprehension, not reply. Bob Fenner>

re: Require help for a bigger aquarium      9/28/16
So... being a 16 year old Asian living under your parents, obviously things don't always go out the way you want it to.
<Ha! I have the same problem! I'm 15 and my parents limit me to 2 tanks at a time in the house... It's a real drag!>
I was not allowed to buy a bigger tank, BUT at least they got me a filter, which is the slim filter by up aqua
(I don't know if it's good).
<Perfect for your situation>
My crayfish is a lot more lively with all that extra oxygen from the water flow of the filter and I am kinda relieved now as I don't have to check on him every hour to see if he's still alive (he was a lot less mobile very unresponsive before I got the filter). Hopefully after my exams, I'll finally be able to get a bigger aquarium. For now, here are some pictures.
<Darren, that is a very nice specimen you have there! Too bad about not upgrading, but there is always time to do that in the future. Glad to hear the crayfish is doing well, though. Good luck in the future, mate. Cheers, Gabe.>

Albino shark        9/27/16
Dear team
<Hey Sangeeta>
I have an aquarium with freshwater. I have kept two white albino sharks- babies. I noticed recently, probably it's been 2-3 days, that one of them is always in the hide-out, it swims sometimes around the sides of the tank, then it's v active, then again goes and lies without any movement in hide-out. It remains in hide-out for hours, this worries me; will anything
be wrong with it, please advise
Regards, Sangeeta
<Mmm; might well be that there is nothing wrong at all with your minnow sharks here. These are territorial animals that are best kept either one to a system (unless it is HUGE; like hundreds of gallons); or stocked with a few more specimens. Odd numbers work best... so that one isn't being picked on... IF you see both out and feeding when you apply food, and no torn fins, I wouldn't worry here. Bob Fenner>

disease help; FW myst.        9/27/16
Hello-
<Ter>
I cannot figure out what to do about our tank. The shop I use says we are doing everything right but yet we keep losing fish.
<Let's see... there are a few categories of "anomalous/mysterious losses" in terms of cause, appearance>
1) We test water every day. One a month it gets serviced. It gets freshened every week. We use aquarium salt.
<Test results please... what is included in this "service"? Do you change water weekly? How much? Why do you use "aquarium salt"?>
2)We have something in the tank as this started a year ago and takes out a fish every one at a time.
<.... something?>
3) It starts with a totally healthy fish slowing down. Swimming oddly, tilting, then will suddenly swim fast and "crash" into things. Stop eating. Stay near bottom. Then their body "deforms" and gets skeleton like and bends in half. Then it dies and it breaks our heart. Their tail and fins clamp in and look like they start to shrink.
<Good description>
4) I am now removing them from tank and separating them. Once removed they seem to improve.
<A good clue>
I am treat them with the parasite med and revive. They eat, but not much.
They have a large white potty that I am told is the parasite.
<Maybe... do you have a loupe, or low power microscope; esp. one you can connect via USB to take a pic to send?>
And one would think the fish would them improve. But no, then they start bending in half and die. And it takes them awhile and nothing we do helps which makes you feel horrible.
5) No one else sees it, but I swear half their body looks like it is not as shiny(back half). Like it has a very dusting of grey. But it is not super obvious and others say it is just my eyes.
<Mmm; could you send along a well-resolved photo of one of these fish?>
6) I have fed the food I was supposed to(medicated for three weeks now. I treated the tank as I was told. And yet it strikes yet another after a few weeks.
Can anyone please help me get whatever this is out of our tank?
<Could be that this is "something" pathogenic (involving a disease causing organism); but I suspect there is something in the tank itself... a decoration, substrate contaminant... that is poisoning your fishes. We/you could remove all items, experiment by putting each one in a separate system w/ some "test fish".... Myself, I'd place a pad of PolyFilter in your filter/circulation path and note what (if any) color the pad changes to.
Need the above questions answered, the test results shown>
Thank you,
Teresia
<Glad to help. Bob Fenner>

Re: Hemichromis lifalili       9/26/16
Thanks for quick reply back Neale.
<Welcome.>
I was hesitant to combine these species.
<Indeed!>
Here is a pic of one of the males.
<Nice looking Hemichromis... whatever it is!>
What do you think about the products hex-shield and ick-shield?
<So far as treating Hexamita goes, nothing is better than Metronidazole. In the UK, where antibiotics are only available via vets, the one alternative I've heard good things about is eSHa Discus. Their other products are certainly excellent. So I think I'd go with the eSHa product if possible.
When it comes to Whitespot/Ick, the salt/heat method is by far the safest, especially if used alongside other medications. That said, eSHa EXIT is my Whitespot medication of choice.>
Thanks for your time
<Cheers, Neale>
Re: Hemichromis lifalili      9/26/16

To give you guys an update. I just got home and noticed a pair had got a spawn off and are guarding eggs in a rock pile. The jewels do seem very tolerant and are allowing other fish within 6 inches of site, no one dares enter their cave though. Thanks again for all the help
<All sounds good news... good luck with this breeding project! Cheers, Neale.>

 

Fish identification      9/26/16
Hello,
Thank you for the excellent website - and for the time you all take to respond to questions.
I have a spring fed natural pond that is 60 x 40 feet and 8-10 feet deep in the middle...(approximately 144,000 gallons).
The pond is in upstate New York; water runs in to and through the pond all year long and never completely freezes.
Every year there are tons of frogs.
This year I cleaned the pond for the first time since I became the land owner (7 years):
First I drained it down by re-building a trench at the end opposite from where water flows in, removed all of the cattails (two 12 foot long bunches at either end of the pond), turned over the edges (all of the way around),
and treated the pond with a product boasting "beneficial bacteria" and "safe for...horses, livestock, birds, pets, fish, wildlife and the environment" to help clear the water (it worked).
The whole process took about 6-8 weeks of work.
<A BIG job>
I was greatly rewarded.
I could see the bottom of the pond all the way around - and down to about 4-5 feet - for the first time.
(The water has a green tint but is quite clear in the shallowest parts.)
Three catfish (12 inches, 16 inches, and 20 inches) appeared and I occasionally feed (1x per week).
There is also a HUGE snapping turtle in the pond - he must be old (a foot long?).
<Get more than twice this length!>
I have never seen him outside of the pond. He just floated up one day right in front of me - it was amazing.
I am writing because of the seemingly dozens and dozens of fish in the pond.
They seem to be all different kinds and swim around in separate schools and the biggest, aside from the catfish, is 6-8 inches.
There are tons of minnows too. Some (minnows?) seem to move around on the bottom of the pond, and others float around the top and in the shallows.
Some of these unidentified fish/minnows come to feed and others do not.
When I first started treating the pond, I only saw two or three dead fish.
Attached is a photo of one of the fish that died (it was about an inch long).
Do you know what kind of fish it is?

They are skittish and vary in size. There are tons of bigger ones now (3 inches up to 6-8 inches).
The bigger ones are almost all orange - and it looks like black running along the top of them.
The little ones look translucent in the water - but the orange is obvious in all of them.
They are very very shy and will dart up to eat food and then very quickly dart away.
What are they?
<Pretty sure from the description, pic.... oblique mouth, scalature... colored fins, that this is the Common Shiner; Luxilus cornutus>
How can I help them survive?
<Take a read on the Net w/ the common and scientific names>
There are so many of them I wonder if the pond can support them - especially with multiple other schools of fish and minnows that I cannot identify.
Thank you very much,
Atiany
New York
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>

 

Re: Dragon wrasse painfully thin      9/26/16
Hi Bob Thanks for swift reply. I was going away when I wrote and have just arrived back . Struggling to find relevant information re food supplements but will try with some meaty food this week . The pellets are made by Ocean Nutrition and 2 different types .formula one and two . Regards Gary
<Ahh; a good product line as well. Get going w/ the meaty foods! Bob Fenner>

Fish stopped eating      9/26/16
Hello.
<Tim>
I have a 1000 litre tank housing two porcupine puffers, a guinea fowl puffer, a small moray eel and a Foxface.
<What species eel?>
They have been together for over two years now. I feed them a wide range of seafood and also pellets.
<What kinds of seafood exactly?>
In the last month they all turned off eating for some reason and didn't seem happy.
Water tested out fine on different test kits.
<Please send parameters>
I also carried out a few large water changes. All fish returned to normal after a few days except for the guinea fowl puffer who hasn't eaten in a few weeks now and is not swimming around as much as usual. I'm just curious to what could have happened. None of the fish are showing signs of disease or parasites. Any advice would be helpful at this moment. Thanks Tim
<I would try soaking some food in garlic mixes from your LFS. Send parameters and maybe some pictures. The puffer could be sick and it may not be visible. Cheers, Gabe>

Re: Require help for a bigger aquarium; now Crayfish comp.       9/26/16
What other fish can I keep with the crayfish? (The 10 gallon tank will probably look too empty if there is only 1 crayfish in there with no other fish). Also, should I get any plants and if I should what kind of plants are easy to maintain but won't be eaten by the crayfish?
<I would stay away from fish, because the crayfish will most likely eat them, and because the tank is so small. If you must add fish, choose something fast like Danios. Plants need very special lighting and water additives. Too extreme for a 10 gallon tanks, and not to mention an inexperienced hobbyist. Cheers, Gabe>

weird goldfish exophthalmia      9/26/16
Hello WWM Crew!
<Hey Bill>
I have a 4-year-od fantail goldfish, Natasha, with a weird case of PopEye. She’s in a 55 gallon aquarium with another, smaller fantail. I weekly water changes of around 50%. Water parameters are: pH: 70-7.2, ammonia: 0, nitrite: 0, nitrate: 10-20.
<All good>

The aquarium has been running for 14 years, and I’ve never detected any kind of nitrogen cycle crash based on regular testing. I feed the goldfish peas, broccoli, various beans, wilted spinach, strawberry pieces, and dried seaweed (Nori), all of which is organic. They occasionally get live earthworms, scrambled eggs, frozen Mysid shrimp, frozen brine shrimp, and frozen bloodworms. They mostly get the veggies to prevent constipation problems. There is also some Bacopa and Sagittaria planted in the aquarium, too.
<Very good>

About a week ago, I noticed Natasha’s left eye was a bit swollen but not red. The eye was (and still is) clear, so I thought she might’ve just bumped it on something.
<I concur; this is my guess as well. Unilateral exophthalmia (one sided) is almost always due to physical trauma. Like humans, fishes eyes are highly vascularized... given to "popping out" if bumped>

This has happened before and has cleared up after a week or so with no treatment other than more frequent water changes. Natasha was acting normally and eating, so I wasn’t worried initially. The other goldfish is fine, and neither fish is bloated or has ragged fins. This time, the swollen area around Natasha’s started turning red all around the eye after a week, and she started keeping her dorsal fin flat, which is very unusual. I did a 50% water change and started treating
with Seachem’s Kanaplex on Sept. 15th in case her eye was getting infected.
<Which would also be my next level, step of treatment>
She perked up after the first dose. By the third dose (Sept. 20 th), she was sitting on the bottom and moving only when I fed them. On the 21st, I noticed red streaks on her belly, so I started treating with API tetracycline. I took the photos on the 22nd.
Since then, the red streaks on her belly disappeared, and she’s almost back to her usual activity level, but the swelling has increase slightly and is more oriented under her eye. The white streak in the second pic (popeyesm2) appears to be pus that started draining when I took the photo.
The whitish area on the bottom toward the front of her eye also started draining. I don’t know what that that white, mushroom-looking thing is on top of her eye. That showed up a little before I took the photos. Is it a parasite?
<No; not likely. IS some bit of tissue/growth from the fish itself>

Since she’s been about a year old, the back, inside part of her eyes have always looked white like she has especially vibrant tapetum lucida, but that made me wonder the white areas are really something else.
It’s always seemed like she couldn’t see food falling in front of her face, but she can see me sitting on the couch and knows when I get up. I’ve been feverishly reading about PopEye, eye parasites, and tumors, but I can’t really figure out what’s going on. Here eye is still clear, and she can still move it somewhat. What should I do?
<I would cease medicine treatments and rely on time going by, your good care, nutrition to heal this eye in time>

I’m out of tetracycline (more should have been delivered by now, and I will make sure it gets delivered soon). It seems like her eye started draining after I started the tetracycline, but the swelling hasn’t gone down or gotten less red. Any
suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for your help and for running a great website,
Bill Connelly
<Thank you for your kind, encouraging words, and sharing your situation with us. Bob Fenner>

need help on forum please. RB Piranha social issue    /RMF     9/25/16
hello,
<Hello there>
I have 3 red belly piranhas, I have had them 8 months with no problems until now. I have a tank full of caves and full of plants like there natural habitat. each fish has there own cave they stay in.
but the last 2 days one of them is now staying next to the heater and every few hours I can hear him smash around, I'm presuming accidently touching the heater?
<I'd cover this heater (perhaps with a perforated plastic pipe) to prevent damage to both it and the fish)>
was wondering why he would leave his cave and move to the heater area?
any help is greatly appreciated.
<Likely this is a situation in which there are too few individuals of this Piranha species in too small a volume. Take a look on the Net, pix in the wild... Serrasalmus natteri lives in large schools in huge volumes; and is almost too skittish in captivity to do well... Needs several specimens, hundreds of gallons of space.

Let's have you read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/CharaciformPIX/Piranha/PiranhaSys.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
need help on forum please. /Neale      9/25/16

hello,
I have 3 red belly piranhas, I have had them 8 months with no problems until now. I have a tank full of caves and full of plants like there natural habitat.
<How big is the tank? This is important, as will be explained...>

each fish has there own cave they stay in. but the last 2 days one of them is now staying next to the heater and every few hours I can hear him smash around, I'm presuming accidently touching the heater?
<Possibly. Piranhas are active, but mostly when the lights are off.
Technically, they're "crepuscular" fish, active at dawn and dusk. They are relatively inactive during the day. So while they look like they don't do much when you're watching them, at certain times they are a lot more active. Sexually mature males are also territorial, and will be aggressive towards other males. It's difficult, probably impossible, to keep fewer
than 5-6 specimens together as adults. I'm sure one or two people have gotten lucky (they may well have had mostly or all females) but for the most part Red Bellied Piranhas should be kept in groups of at least six specimens. That requires a fair amount of space; I'd suggest 350 litres/100 US gallons as the minimum.>
was wondering why he would leave his cave and move to the heater area?
<It could be territoriality, as discussed above. In larger groups the territorial behaviour is easier to manage because one fish cannot become dominant as easily.>
any help is greatly appreciated.
<The classic solution to this sort of social behaviour problem, e.g., with Mbuna, is to add extra specimens, but Piranhas are cannibalistic and aggressive, making this approach extremely challenging. Probably the safest approach would be to remove all the Piranhas, rearrange all the decorations, add new specimens of similar or larger size, and then reintroduce the original specimens. But even then there's a big risk of aggression, especially if the tank is too small. Cheers, Neale.>

re: Fins deteriorating     9/25/16
Thank you for that I have neem trying to tell my boyfriend that he way over crowded his tank. But he had not believed me for months now.
<Understood. But just make sure he understands these catfish should reach a well over 12 inches in length (30 cm) within a year or so, and twice that size within two years. Growth rate slackens off a bit as they age, but still, within 4-5 years they should be fully grown, 90-120 cm/3-4 ft, and such catfish are essentially impossible to house in commercial aquaria. The
lucky specimens end up at zoos, but many wind up stunted, sick, or dead.
Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Two birds with one stone. Stand, leveling base      9/25/16
Hi Bob,
<Hey Eddie>
I was getting ready to do the test fill today (cutting the Styrofoam, etc.) when I realized that I told you wrong in the original email. It’s ¾ inch Styrofoam instead of ¼ inch. That shouldn’t make a difference, right?
<Oh yes; though a quarter inch might do it... a half or your 3/4 is better>
Also I noticed a slight rise in the very middle of the plywood top of the stand (1/32 to 1/16 of an inch in the very middle). The stand is planar around the edges (with the slight exception detailed before. I know this because I tested it by setting the tank on top of it. I didn’t notice this rise, of course, because the tank has a floating bottom. For that reason it shouldn’t matter either, right?
<Not much, no>
I am a little worried because the Styrofoam is thicker than I had previously told you. I’m worried that it will put too much pressure on the glass bottom of the tank (especially where the plastic support piece runs front to back across the middle.
<The foam's function is to even out small differences>
Please tell me I’m being too paranoid.
<Not to worry>
Thanks again for being there for all of us,
Eddie
<Welcome. BobF>

Hemichromis lifalili     9/25/16
Greetings Crew, I've recently been given seven 2 year old jewel cichlids identified by the owner as lifalili, 2 males and 5 females.
<Dubious. One problem is that hybrid Hemichromis are common. But in any case, Hemichromis bimaculatus has three spots on its body, one on the gill cover, one halfway along the flank, and another on the caudal peduncle.
Hemichromis lifalili has just two spots: the one of the gill cover and the one on the caudal peduncle. A trace of one halfway along the flank may be present, but nothing like as bold as yours. I would have you visit Fishbase can compare the species...
http://www.fishbase.org/identification/SpeciesList.php?genus=Hemichromis
Bear in mind that most of the farmed fish are probably hybrids because Hemichromis species identification is something that was poorly understood well into the 1980s if not beyond, a very similar situation to Severums and a few other "common" cichlids. Hybrids can still be attractive fish, and may favour one particular species in terms of appearance. But behaviour, adult size, and other parameters can be unpredictable, and yes, this is absolutely something people associate with Jewel Cichlids -- some are peaceful, some psychotic; some stay small, others grow to 20 cm/8 inches or more. More than likely the only pure-bred species traded will be wild-caught.>
They are coloring up nicely but I noticed some scaly patches on females above head and progresses down the dorsal area with some indention. Almost looks some what bacterial but with a dash of Hexamita. Can you help me identify the pathogen? The previous owner claimed they been spawning constantly in a 100g.
<Easy enough to believe!>
I added them to a 150g with a smaller breeding trio of empress red cichlids at about 4 inch and 10 Rosie barbs at 1 inch as a dither. I really haven't noticed any aggression towards empress or dither aside from a false charge.
<Good. In that sized aquarium, Jewels may well be reasonably tolerant.
Water chemistry for the Jewels isn't what Aulonocara prefer, so I'm a bit dubious about combining them. But I guess medium hardness, pH 7.5 might work for bother.>
The empress still look good but I have noticed some very small whitish patching on the other jewels.
<There's certainly some extra mucous production going on there. Might be simple stress, but could be Costia or Hexamita. I do believe that the standard Metronidazole plus a suitable antibiotic (Nitrofurazone for example) will be a good "first pass" here, tackling a wide range of possibilities including the two diseases mentioned. Don't forget to remove carbon, if used, from the filter.>
Thanks
<Welcome, Neale.>

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