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amboinensis (De Man 1888), the Indo-Pacific White-Striped
Cleaner Shrimp or Ambon Shrimp. Widespread in the tropical
Indo-Pacific and Red Sea. Telson white, uropods with two white dots. Can be
kept singly or in groups. A hardy Cleaner. Here giving a stock manicure
in Bali 2014 |
Desktop size download &Link to Archived Marine Daily Pix
Other Specialized Daily FAQs Blogs: Freshwater,
Brackish, Last Few Days
Daily Q&A replies/input from the WWM crew: Nate Guerette, Rick Novy, Bobby
Rudro, Jordan Stari, Sue Garrett, Darrel Barton,
Neale Monks, Marco Lichtenberger, Sabrina Sharp, James Gasta, Eric Russell, Chris Perivolidis,
Lynn Zurik, Chuck Rambo, Bob Fenner, are posted here. Moved
about, re-organized daily
Current Crew Bios., Not so current Crew Bios
Angelfishes for Marine Aquariums
Diversity, Selection & Care
New eBook on Amazon: Available
New Print Book on Create Space: Available
by Robert (Bob) Fenner
| PLEASE: Write reviews of my works on Amazon! I need your input. BobF
Note: BobF is out w/ friends in Hawaii 10/15-23.
Hence the dailies may be posted sporadically.
Re: Angel fish with mollies 10/21/14
Thank you for the advice. I have one more question, please. The water pH
in my area is about 8.3.
<Sounds like liquid rock. Presumably the water is very hard. Mollies
will be happy!>
If I did a slow and correct acclimation on an angel would it be safe
living in that pH?
<Possibly, but I wouldn't bank on it. The pH is somewhat less important
than the hardness. Above 20 degrees dKH hardness Angels may struggle to
thrive. So get your hardness tested before doing anything else.>
Are there some breeds that would adapt to the higher pH easier than
<Ideally, get locally bred ones; have seen some hobbyists breed their
Angels in liquid rock, and these will be ideally suited to your
Farmed ones shipped over from Southeast Asia are more likely to have
been reared in soft water. Contact your local/city fish club. Angelfish
are invariably a popular species for breeding, and consequently
difficult to source locally.>
<Most welcome, Neale.>
Re: Angel fish with mollies 10/21/14
Thank you again. Please tell me what dh hardness is, and I assume there
is a test kit for it?
<It's called "German Hardness Scale" measured in degrees dKH. It
measures General Hardness (sometimes called GH) rather than Carbonate
Hardness (which is measured in degrees KH). Yes, there are many general
hardness kits. Some give their results in degrees dKH, others in mg/l
equivalents of either calcium oxide or calcium carbonate. Do read:
Essentially, if the water is soft to moderately hard, Angels are fine;
if it's hard to very hard, they're not a good choice.>
Also, if the angel is surviving in the LFS at a higher pH it should be
OK I assume unless it hasn't been in the tank that long and can be in
bad health without symptoms?
<No. A fish lasting a few weeks in a tropical fish shop isn't the same
as a fish living the next 10 years in your home aquarium. Check your
water chemistry, then decide. Better still, find a local keeper/breeder
some Angels used to your water, if such exist.>
Is this fungus on my Emperor angelfish?
Hi Crew. Thank you again for such a wonderful website.i have an emperor
angel in Qt ( ph 8.1-8.2,nitrate 10-15, nitrite and ammonia 0,temp 79
F,salinity 1.025 I use ro water for water changes and top of)My emperor
angel had Ich and was scratching on the rocks,(was treated with
Cupramine) to the point of getting 3 small cuts which now developed a
weird growth. they look like raised cauliflower growth (and I thought
<Is my guess... viral... a reaction from stress... From? Copper exposure
but its on the cuts so I was wondering if it was possible that it is
fungus or infection. The growth are raised-about 3 mm and 3-4 mm wide.
please let me know what do you think.i know the pictures are not very
won't stay still for a second. My qt is a 1" acrylic tank that is badly
scratched so I put him in this container for pics (these are the best
pics I got so far)
Thank you very much. And have a great day.
<I'd do what is listed on WWM to boost immunity, add a purposeful
cleaner organism that will get along w/ whatever you have; and be
patient. Bob Fenner>
STEM resources for your site
<Mmm; no thanks. Not enough pertinence. B>
Hi there! I’m writing on behalf of Educator Labs, a volunteer-based
startup that conducts free research for educators. We put retired
teachers and librarians (like me!) back into meaningful engagement with
One of our missions is to share the unique and informative STEM
resources we come across, as we believe teaching science, technology,
engineering and math can never be overdone.
I noticed the science education resources on your site (on this page:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/alkmeas.htm) and thought you may be
interested in seeing other similar resources. I have many (many!) I
could share, but I’ve narrowed it down to six. Any interest in sharing
these on your site?
NSTA | Freebies for Teachers
Science Fair Project Ideas, Answers & Tools
The Science of Addiction: K-12 Integrated Prevention Curriculum
Exploratorium | The Science of Cooking
The 10 Best STEM Resources
Calculators for Kids: Important STEM Tools
Have a great day!
Jasmine Dyoco | firstname.lastname@example.org
http://educatorlabs.org/ | Cultivating. Connecting. Curating.
2054 Kildaire Farm Rd. #204 | Cary, NC | 27518
P.S. Send me an email response if you'd rather not hear from me in the
future. I understand and respect your wishes!
Water Test Kits. 10/21/14
Just a quick question please. Are API test kits of decent quality?
<Medium junk... made by other folks. Cheapies... really neither accurate
nor precise. But about right for the mass majority of US consumers>
Someone on a forum (an experienced breeder of marine and freshwater)
said they aren't. He recommended a make called 'Saliferts',
<Yes; much better. Umm; in the qualities mentioned above>
which is a brand I have not heard of before. What brand of test kit
would you recommend?
<Hahhhhaaahhhhhaaaaaaaa.. Posted over and over on the site>
Dormant Cryptocaryon? Using WWM?
I have a 250 gallon fish only aquarium with a mix of puffers,
surgeonfish, and angels. I had a Cryptocaryon outbreak in the
spring, and brought the salinity of the main tank down to 1.011.
<As the slogan goes: "How's that working for ya?". Doesn't work>
I hit 1.011 in the middle of June. By July 1, everyone was clear with no
spots visible anywhere.
All the fish took the hypo very well, and approx 8 weeks later I started
bringing the salinity back up. About two weeks ago, we hit 1.019, and
I'll be damned but I'm seeing Cryptocaryon reemerging on some of the
There have been no new additions since the spring.
<Oh! Imagine my surprise!>
Is it possible for a Cryptocaryon cysts to stay dormant for 8 weeks or
<Yes. Please... search, read ahead of writing us>
Re: Dormant Cryptocaryon? 10/21/14
Hi Bob, I want to thank you very much for your response. I have great
respect for you, and am honored to have your attention. Just a little
background, I have extensive experience with fish, marine and fresh.
Right now while I type to you, I can look at my multiple tank quarantine
systems and count about 2 dozen fish that are undergoing 4 week
quarantine/observation with Praziquantel prophylactic treatment. I do
aquariums for local schools, libraries, non-profits, etc. With all due
respect, I have done extensive reading on your website, among many
others. In fact, here at my desk I can pull and read "Aspects of the
biology of Cryptocaryon irritans" by A. Colorni. which I keep front and
center, along with Fish Disease by Noga.
I have successfully treated crypto on multiple occasions. I have
destroyed it here in my bare bottom quarantine tanks with Cupramine. I
have successfully beat it out of a 200 gallon reef tank using standard
protocol for Hyposalinity, catching all fish from tank and moving them
to a bare bottom treatment tank, and then utilizing hyposalinity in the
treatment tank while the reef remained fallow for 8 weeks. That worked,
however I lost the surgeonfishes, in part I believe because I improperly
put both of them in the same 75 gallon treatment tank and they got too
stressed from being that closely confined with one another. The problem
I'm having with the tank I emailed you about is the sizes involved. The
fish are large and moving them to separate treatment tanks is not a good
option. So I wanted to treat their main display as a large treatment
tank and try and root out the crypto using hypo in the display tank
<Well; the causative organism won't go entirely, but one can "tip the
balance" to fish hosts via such techniques>
There are no inverts, and it's not a reef type tank. Just a fish only
with liverock and livesand, plus a refugium downstairs with a deep mud
bed and mangroves (plus skimmer, rowa reactor, UV, etc.). In
your response you said "Doesn't work". What specifically are you
<Hyposalinity itself to eliminate Protozoan fish diseases.>
Using 1.011? If I were to go to 1.008, would that potentially lyse my
Tomonts? I have been operating under the assumption that Tomites needed
salinity above 1.012 in order to swim to and attach to a fish, and that
after 4 weeks, there will be no more Tomonts left to hatch Tomites.
Are there specific flaws in these assumptions?
If so, what are they?
<Specifically the length of time of embedded intermediates; perhaps
off-host resting stage>
Thank you very much for your time. -Matt Parsons
<Thank you for requiring further discussion Matt. I will try to be more
informative: Have yet to see scientific proof that hyposalinity (lowered
specific gravity exposure of infested fishes) as employed by hobbyists,
effect a real, permanent cure. Rather than paying partial lip service,
in any way encouraging the general public (myself; though yes, others
here, independent content providers I've purchased writing for WWM) DO
hypo. a reasonable treatment modum. I AM a fan of bare bottomed
tanks/vacuuming, the use of quinine compounds, some very wide copper
compound use with most fish families. AND a giant fan of exclusion SOPs
(dips/baths, pH adjusted freshwater, often w/ formalin).
Some friends in the trade utilize quite low spg as an ongoing means of
external parasite control; in turn saving money on salt mix, lessening
other (e.g. algae) maintenance issues.
Re: Dormant Cryptocaryon? 10/21/14
Thank you for your response.
<Glad for the opportunity to put forward my understanding; and learn
I have two options at this point-
1- try some sort of quinine compounds after thorough research.
2- just keep the salinity low. The Fish really don't seem to mind it,
and yes it does save quite a bundle of money for salt, and the rocks
certainly stay clean of encrusting algae growth as well.
<Ah yes; as prev. mentioned, one friend, Mitch Ichinotsubo (who penned a
fish disease book w/ Bob Goemans notably), told me at a Fish Hlth. Conf.
we were presenting at that he keeps his FO service accounts permanently
at 1.012 spg>
I've read differing reports on the long term effects of depressed
salinity on the marine teleost kidney function.
<Yes; I as well. I do know that many advanced bony fishes do venture
into brackish to pure freshwater, sometimes for extended durations...
apparently with impunity>
That's my only fear with keeping the tank at depressed salinity
indefinitely. But like many things written on the internet, there's a
damn good chance it's bunk.
<I expressly do NOT take anything in print or vocalized as "true"; the
Net of course inclusive>
I've been of the hopeful mindset that Crypto could be rooted out of
display tank. It's starting to look like the sort of thing that needs to
be managed long term, without ever a clear decisive victory.
<A good point of view IMO/E>
I am in a position where people call me to fix their problems once they
are well in over their heads. As such, It can be painful for me knowing
how important proper quarantine with prophylactic treatment is to
these issues, and that most of the time, people haven't done that and I
have to sweep up the mess. I do my best, and have a pretty solid track
record of keeping fish alive and healthy for years and years (Seems like
a deep mud bed with macroalgae really makes a big difference in overall
health for fish along with proper nutrition).
<I do concur. Oh, and to toss in, proffer my dos centavos: the addition
of vitamins and HUFAs>
I am going to try and monkey around with the salinity in this tank for
the next 3 months. I may keep it at 1.011 for 3 months, and then try and
bring it down to 1.008 for 3-4 hours to potentially lyse any remaining
that have not yet hatched. Who knows, maybe I'll get lucky. I'll keep
you posted, it'll probably be about 6 months before I truly find out if
this new protocol works.
<Mmm; am given to (hopefully) suggest to some budding/searching grad.
students that they work out (or just find in the pertinent literature) a
protocol for sustaining the various life stages of this and other
parasites... and DO the science; determine under various conditions the
efficacy for treatments. For instance, DOES the use of Melaleuca HAVE
any pharmacological property/ies? I think not; judging from years of
second hand reports; but...>
Thank you again, it's been a pleasure. Most people's eyes get a bit
glassy when I start talking fish. I've gotten so deep into the biology
of Fish and coral keeping that most people have no idea what I'm talking
<A pleasure to share. BobF>
Thoughts on stocking list 10/21/14
Bob and or Crew,
I wanted to run a stocking list for a 120 gallon (60x18x26) by you
before I move forward with stocking:
-Pair of Ocellaris Clowns
-Latticed Butterfly Fish
-Blue Throat Trigger
Your thoughts are always appreciated!
<Temperament and size wise these might well work out together. Start the
Xanthichthys last and small. The Ctenochaetus second last. Bob Fenner>
<... 11.3 megs of pix... for one breaking down Damsel. We demand that
queriors limit what they send us for the reasons stated on how you found
to write us>
I have a 220 gallon aquarium that was setup in June. We have been slowly
adding fish to it. I had 4 yellow-tailed damsels, 3 blue damsels, two
orange Ocellaris clowns, one chocolate Ocellaris clown, one coral
flame Hawkfish, one blond Naso tang and three Heniochuses. I
added two new fish last Friday, a saddle backed butterfly and a
<No mention of dip/bath, or quarantine. You're detailing the beginning
of expensive lessons>7
Both looked healthy at the time of acquisition. On Saturday all of the
fish in the tank were eating and healthy. On Sunday night I noticed one
Heniochus and the long-nosed butterfly were swimming in place and not
eating. Last night I came home from work and most of the fish
were covered with white spots and in obvious distress. Today, the Naso
tang, yellow long-nosed butterfly, saddle backed butterfly, one
Heniochus and one yellow-tailed damsel are dead.
<... soon the rest>
One Heniochus is near death and one orange Ocellaris clown is in great
distress. I am attaching pictures of one of the surviving damsels. Can
you identify the problem and advise a course of action? Thank you.
<Not with great confidence from mere photos. Need sampling and
microscopic examination. Where to refer you to read? Maybe here:
and as much of the linked files in the header as it takes for you to be
satisfied that you understand your options (now). Going forward:
prophylactic measures... Bob Fenner>
Mantis shrimp 10/20/14
I have an empty 30 gallon tank, and would like to acquire a mantis shrimp
(Neogonodactylus oerstedii, only reaches about 3 inches) , I already have a
website that will ship to me, and researched mantis shrimp care. However, this
will be my first salt water tank (though I have had success with brackish). I
know how to feed the shrimp, and have local food suppliers.
But I need technical info. I do not know the temp, ph level, or salinity (I know
it is 33-36 PSU but I do not know what that stands for on my salinity gauge).
Any basic info would help me, thanks.
<Kept these at university (Gonodactylus oerstedii back then...) and they're very
hardy. Basically, a standard fish-only aquarium kit is all you need, with
dividers if you plan on keeping more than one per tank (we used a DIY approach
with plastic mesh for this). External canister filter, a skimmer if you want.
Temperature around 25 C/77 F is fine. Lighting irrelevant.
Salinity anywhere within the normal range, but 1.025 at 25 C is ideal (the PSU
is a measurement of salinity, i.e., salt concentration, which aquarists rarely
worry about; specific gravity is a much easier proxy, for which a
hydrometer will work nicely where these hardy beasts are concerned). Tufa rock
or similar for hiding places. Secure lid probably important though ours never
got out (unlike the crabs we kept...). Feeding as per the
family, with small molluscs and crustaceans being favoured (they're "smashers").
In short, if you can maintain reasonably steady conditions, you'll find these
Mantis Shrimps easy to keep. Cheers, Neale.>
Angel fish with mollies 10/20/14
Hello Crew, hope all is going well. I have an innovative marine nuvo 38
gallon which is 24 inches along and 19 high. I have 1 male black molly
along with 2 females as well as 6 sterbai corries. I would like to use
angel fish a "center piece" so to speak; and I was wondering if an angel
would be compatible in this smaller tank.
<Singleton Angels (farmed Angels, anyway) can be kept in tanks from 20
gallons upwards, provided there's a good 30 cm/12 inches of water depth.
So you should be fine, assuming the water chemistry suits all the
If so, do different types of angels have different temperaments so I
could get a less aggressive one?
<There is some variation among Angelfish varieties, with all-black
Angels (in the past, anyway) identified as peculiarly aggressive, while
some of the more inbred forms (such as Koi Angels) grow more slowly and
tend to be more easily picked on than other sorts. In short: avoid
keeping random twos or threes as these often devolve into one bully and
the rest mere victims.
Also avoid the more inbred varieties. Silver Angels, Marbled Angels and
Golden Angels, as well as mishmash crossbreeds of these, tend to be
pretty reliable. Singletons are fine, mated pairs are fine, and groups
of six or
more usually work out some sort of modus vivendi given enough space.
Unfortunately, you cannot sex Angels, so getting a pair means either
buying a mated pair (expensive!) or rearing six and allowing them to
pair off themselves (but even then, Angels occasionally pair off in
And lastly is it OK to keep a single angel without a partner or others
of the same sex?
<Absolutely, at least with farmed Angels. Altum Angels, wild Scalare
Angels and so on are probably best kept as schools.>
Thank you for your help
<Most welcome, Neale.>
Brook or velvet
Could you tell me if my clowns have Brooklynella or marine velvet?
Pictures attached. Thank you.
<My guess is on Brook and/or Cryptocaryoniasis... def. not Velvet. I
would treat w/ quinine per WWM.
Goldfish spawn regularly, but eggs never hatch
I have somewhat of a puzzling issue. My fancy goldfish spawn every 3-4
weeks in my 50 gal aquarium (oddly, in the afternoon while I am
at work, never at dawn), but the eggs never
seem to develop past the visible-eyes/shadows
stage. I tried hand spawning once, and the result was
the same. The eggs are NOT infertile; they simply never hatch. I
have tried various containers, including
moving the eggs to a separate aquarium
and floating them inside a mesh breeder in the main tank, but
inevitably, after several days they shrivel up
and disintegrate, no matter the conditions (I
have tried hatch temps between 68 and 75F). I am planning to
try Methylene blue next time, but the fungus doesn't seem to be setting
in until after the eggs have started to wither
away. The only additives in the water are
Ultimate water conditioner, Flourish and Excel. Could any of
these be causing the problem?
<Water quality possibly; or that there's no male present, the eggs
haven't been fertilized>
My last successful spawning was over a year ago, and I was wholly
unprepared for it (I actually wrote to you - the title was
"Goldfish laid eggs in aquarium; want to
ensure best care for fry"). Those were my
boyfriend's fish, and they haven't spawned since. The fish I am writing
about now are my fish at my home tank, which I've had since
February. If it helps, my water parameters for
tank and tap are: 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 0
<How is NO3 rendered thus?>
8.1 pH, 13 drops GH, and 10 drops KH (using API drops). I do a 75%
water change weekly, use a strong canister filter and have 4
goldfish (3 females and 1 male, all probably
2-3 years old).
<Mmm; should have more males than females for spawning>
I also wanted to mention an interesting observation. When I pick up my
veiltail for gill exams, etc., who I suspect is doing the bulk of
the spawning, she always releases some eggs.
However, the eggs are not round
as I would expect; they are shaped
irregularly. Does this mean they are simply
not developed, or could there be a problem with her eggs?
I have never caught these fish in the act, but
when I see eggs on the plants when I come home
they are shaped normally (round). So, I suspect the eggs
Panache releases when I pick her up are just undeveloped, but I
just wanted to verify that.
<You might try separating the male until... bringing on spawning through
a massive water change with cooler water.
Re: Goldfish spawn regularly, but eggs never hatch
> Thanks Bob! I know, isn't it weird that my nitrates are always at 0?
It > has been like this in every tank I've
ever had, no matter what substrate (or
lack of substrate) I have. I did some research into this and it
appears > that I may have bacteria present in
my tanks that are capable of consuming nitrate.
I have come across several other aquarists who have the same
phenomenon, but we haven't found any common factor that
sticks out. The only other unusual thing
about my tank is that we have very hard water
here, but I'm not sure if that could be related.
I bought most of my fish at auctions and was only aware of the sex of
one, so it was just bad luck for breeding that
I ended up with only one male. I do hope he
doesn't have a fertility problem; that would be such a shame as
he is a stunning purple butterfly.
I can certainly try separating my male and then doing a big water change
with cooler water. For how many days should I separate him, and
do I do the water change immediately after
reintroducing him to the main tank?
<Keep the sexes separated permanently until you want to spawn them
The water change out can occur the same day. Bob Fenner>
How Much/How Often to Feed an Abalone?
Hello Bob & Company!
We’ve talked before, and I so appreciate your help - this time, my
question relates to my abalone, Oscar. (“My abalone has a first name,
I’ve had Oscar for almost a year now, and he’s grown from 4” to almost
6” resting length (longer when stretched out). He’s active for several
hours a day, and does a fantastic job keeping the reef clear of algae. I
made some mesh cages for macroalgae, which helps me offer him live food
in addition to dried seaweed (he eventually clears the cages, and I
Here’s my question: how much and how often should Oscar be eating? He’s
reached a point where he can plow a 6” x 2” square of dried seaweed in
less than an hour, and I suspect he’d do it as often as I let him. I’ve
been offering the seaweed 2-3 times a week, and letting him “graze” the
tank (which is fairly algae-free, thanks to Oscar and the pair of turbo
snails I keep with him) and get what he can from the macro-algae cages
the rest of the week. I don’t want to overfeed him, because he’s such a
lovely creature and I’d like him to have a long life - but I don’t want
to starve him, either! I’d really appreciate any help you can offer.
<Really depends on temperature mostly... but I would keep on the
schedule you've been using... it IS working>
Thank you! (I’ve included a photo of Oscar, and another that shows one
of the algae cages.)
<Very nice. Thanks for sharing. Bob Fenner>
Fwd: ARRRRGH PESTS! Rectangular Gelatinous Clumps?!
Hi Bob, How's your day?!
<Mighty fine, 'cept the weather Kristy. Thanks>
Just checking in on the mystery of my 100's of rectangular gelatinous clumps
(don't move) that keep floating up from the sand substrate in an established
Fluval 6G freshwater tank ... CLEAR water (except for seed shrimp) and normal
water parameters (soft acidic) ... with only 2 pygmy Corys and 3 algae eating
shrimp 3 moss balls. Again tank has been minimally fed 2-3x's week for over 4
mth.s due to seed shrimp issue. Neale mentioned
something about how the clumps smash ... if you press your finger on them they
disintegrate (smear) and are not spongy.
<Mmm; yes; I saw>
To confirm, you recommended that I wash the sand ... I DID wash the sand with
gallons of filtered drinking water (not tap) and then replaced in the tank PLUS
25% water change. IT LOOKED Fabulous. The next am, I noticed the clumps starting
to float up from sand substrate again but not as many...YET. So, I took my
filter apart and rinsed everything with R/O water which took a TON of
"accumulation" out from the bottom of the filter below the sponge ... was
careful to just slightly rinse the sponge. Also, rinsed the 3 moss balls in
another bowl of R/O water and the water ran clear on them and as they weren't
dirty/smelly as some report. I figured all the goop in the bottom of the filter
was the culprit. However, now I'm back up to removing via net at least 50 clumps
EVERY FEW HOURS (several times a day). They've increased over the week. When I
net them out I do not upset the sand substrate as I net around mid-tank level. I
have a sponge cover over my filter intake because of the shrimp. Filtration on
medium. These clumps float up when the Corys or shrimp pass and when I swing the
What do you think? How do I get rid of this stuff. It's not fecal matter because
nothing has changed over past 4+ months. Also, the sand, filter, moss balls, and
a few rocks are rinsed. HELP! And thanks again.
<Same as before... perhaps adding another particulate filter (a hang-on power?)
will "do the trick" here. Bob Fenner>
Re: ARRRRGH PESTS! Rectangular Gelatinous Clumps?!
Ok thank you. I'm confused about how this can develop in an established and now
rinsed tank literally overnight. Have a beautiful day !
<I'd still be looking at these zots under a microscope... B>
Copper Power... using WWM
Hi Crew. I have been looking into a product called Copper Power, by
Endich Inc. I can't find any info on this med. I'm wondering what kind
of test kit I would use with this? API maybe? This med also claims to be
safer than others. Any truth to this? Please give me your thoughts on
>Use the search tool on WWM... before writing us. Bob Fenner>
Copper Power 10/19/14
I did use the search tool before writing! I'm sorry that I didn't feel
searching for hours
<... takes seconds to minutess to find what's archived re this product.
I did it myself>
before finding an answer. Is it too much to ask your thoughts on the
product, and what kit to use?
<Is a worthwhile product... that is, has its applications...>
Wouldn't have taken much more time to respond with a helpful answer,
other than just referring me to search. Have a good night.
<And you. BobF>
Re: Final additions to tank
Many thanks. Would other Chromis be compatible e.g. Orange lined or Blue
<Easier going species; yes; though I would just stick with one schooling
species of Pomacentrid in this size, shape system. BobF>
dying Sebae anemone? 10/18/14
I have been reading your site and am impressed. I have a Sebae Anemone that
has not attached for the month it's been here, and I think it is dying. I
am looking for advice. It looked like it was starting
to fall apart so I took it out, but if it has a chance
I'd like to try saving it before it's too late. Also,
if it is hopeless, should I euthanize it?
<... can't tell w/o more data... a pic perhaps? If it's falling apart I'd flush
it. Bob Fenner>
Re: dying Sebae
So sorry, I had meant to include this photo. Thank you for getting back to
<.... this Heteractis crispa is gone>
I did smell it and it doesn't smell particularly foul yet, just sort of
saltwater-aquarium-y. I checked my water parameters and the ammonia is a
bit off at .25. I put some Amquel in. Nitrates are at
<... you're joking>
I am ashamed to say that it is in a 5 gallon tank that is very new with one
Dottyback and a few small turbo snails. I know it is too small and young
a tank, but I am afraid to put in my 75 gallon where
it might die and kill my other fish. Besides, the 75
was just upgraded two months ago from a 6 month old 20
gallon. So, I know I should have taken it back to LFS and may still
try if they would take it.
<Should have never purchased in the first place. BobF>
Healthy MI sudden death 10/18/14
I’m writing because I just lost my Moorish idol within hours and I’m
wondering if anyone else has had this unique experience and what you
think about this:
<Zanclus die... of shock very commonly. See WWM re>
I have a very healthy established saltwater tank (300 gal softie reef)
with 40 gal sump and an addtl’ 40 gal refugium. 4” sand bed. I’ve been
in SW for 8 years & FW for my life time. (from Florida originally) Oh,
and I’m 45 y/o. So, although no expert, very experienced. IMHO.
Okay, having said that, I brought home my first Moorish idol 13 months
ago. He has THRIVED. Fat, eats everything I feed him, eats out of my
hand. Lives with 2 tangs . red scooters, fairy wrasse, gobies &
magnificent Rabbitfish. No problems. Sleeps with my orange shoulder tang
(who I've had for 7 years). I recently bought macro algae to make my
MI’s diet more exciting. Among the algae I put in the tank and/or my
refuge about 1 week ago: bottlebrush, mermaid fan, more Chaeto (have a
ton!) and….. macro Eucheuma Spinosum. The latter was in the main tank
for approx. a week, not touched. Last night, I get home from work and
notice the “orange sized algae” bunch of the Eucheuma is gone. Tiki (my
MI) is happily swimming around with an even fatter belly than usual. My
husband & I laughed & I saw him at 9pm doing his night routine and I
went to bed. I woke up this morning and he was dead.
No parameter changes in my tank, no one else is sick, no illness
WHATSOEVER in my tank. I’m heartbroken. Truly. So I am hoping to share
this experience & maybe learn as a hobby.
I believe the algae was toxic. I did some research & this is the algae
that has controversial (for furry pets) issues… “carrageenan”
<Mmm; could be>
It’s sold commonly in the saltwater aquarium trade, probably most (in
fact this is stated) fish don’t like it & it’s a great nitrate/PO4
absorber. But I'm wondering if my pig MI was killed by eating it all at
once… and ate a lot. Again, he had NO, zero changes prior in behavior,
look or eating habits. Fat and robust as ever.
What do you think about this?
<A theory; could be tested>
☹ I feel horrible about it. Maybe it can be a learning experience for
anyone successfully (tentative use of that term) keeping idols.
I would very much appreciate your thoughts & any questions.
<Keep bier in cool, dark places>
Thanks so much for your time, Lisa
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Final additions to tank 10/18/14
Over the past 8-10 months I have gradually added my selected stock to my
500 litre tank. All seems well but just wanted to check my final
I have currently: 3 x Chromis viridis, 1 x Gramma loreto, 2 x Amphiprion
percula, 1 x Zebrasoma flavescens, plus one Cleaner Shrimp, one
Peppermint shrimp and a tuxedo urchin. From my research I am adding next
1 x Centropyge bispinosus then 2 x Gobiosoma oceanops. However, having
researched many places I have found very mixed views on Azure Damsels
(C. hemicyanea.) I was thinking of adding 5 of these as my last
<Mixing the two Damsel species might prove too much for the less-sturdy
They would be smaller than any of my existing stock and I was planning
to add last. Whilst never any guarantees, I would value your view given
the love them/hate them divisions I have come across
Many thanks Rob
<All the rest are very likely fine... You must be the final arbiter in
deciding whether the Azures are worth the risk.
Alternatively I'd consider a small group of Cardinals. Bob Fenner>
FW: Paraguard Personal View. 10/17/14
I would like to say the fish are all 100% well which is excellent news as the
medication, SeaChem Focus and Metronidazole only arrived today some 5 weeks
after ordering it. I am therefore of the belief that if you catch
Whitespot early, just a few visible spots and can create water current in all
areas of the tank via several pumps etc the number of pumps depending on the
size of the tank a working UV whose input area is in the central
water flow area will cure it.
<Mmm; yes; given that the fish/hosts are not "too" debilitated>
My UV is only a budget model a SunSun JUP-01 (I do not have any connection to
SunSun just own the UV) but all I can say is the Whitespot is gone.
Having lost to Whitespot many times over the last 30 years and then won with
copper but the said effects of copper killing many algae and it toxicity to
inverts make this method a much better way. Remember the UV
turns over the tank theoretically every 10 mins which I think is also a factor.
<You can read my similar comments on WWM under the FAQs files on Infested Reef
and Fish Tanks>
Platy problems 10/17/14
We set up a new 48 gallon aquarium April 2014 and after cycling the tank
added 6 platys and 3 Danios to get started, losing one of each in the
first 6 weeks.
At the end of June my daughter brought home her first grade classroom
guppies (which had been kept with snails that I did not put in our
I kept them separated for a while but I am now worried it was not long
enough. The Danios still seem to be doing well and growing. The guppies
are reproducing regularly, but something is wrong with the platys. We
have lost one platy a month for the last 3 months and are now down to
the last guy.
<Hmm... if the other fish are fine, you may have got a "bad bunch" from
the retailer. Livebearers are often produced to a price rather than a
quality, and while Platies aren't the worst offenders, they're not as
they once were. To recap: Platies need hard, alkaline water. They must
not be too warm (22-25 C/72-77 F). They dislike strong water currents.
They are herbivores, so do best on algae-based flake food. Bullying can
problem, so keep at least two females per male, and if you keep more
than one male, keep three or more, not two.>
He was a large, robust bully for months but lately has been hanging out
on the bottom under a rock and a few days ago I noticed he has a white
thing a few millimeters long sticking out from under his left side fin.
<Not faeces come out of his anus? Hmm... could be many things, simply
dead skin from physical damage and an external parasite such as Anchor
Worm to name but two. Try dipping the fish in seawater for 2-20 minutes
(basically, for as long as it takes before he gets too stressed or rolls
over). A seawater dip is aquarium water to which is added 35 gram of
salt per litre.
Cooking sea salt works fine, though aquarium salt is probably better. No
need to buy marine aquarium salt though. If the parasite is external,
daily dipping thusly should shift it.>
A local fish store recommended "ParaGuard".
<A worthwhile "treats all sorts of things, if not especially well"
I have been treating the tank daily all week, and giving the platy a dip
in more concentrated treatment each night but have seen no change. I did
not notice this on any of the other platys who died. They all seemed to
lose weight quickly and the first also had a bent spine before dying.
<Wasting and bent spines typically indicate Mycobacteria, of which more
is said elsewhere on WWM. Basically untreatable. More often than not a
subset of species kept by aquarists are vulnerable, and in your case, it
seems the Platies were probably infected at the retailer, and some
shortcoming in aquarium conditions triggered their rapid decline.>
I am having trouble determining the cause and why only the platys are
affected. I do a 25-30% water change each month and the water parameters
have been fine. Is the ParaGuard the best course of treatment? How long
should I continue?
Thank you very much for your help,
<Do you best for the Platy, and review conditions as noted. But
realistically, if he doesn't pull through, I'd avoid this species in the
future, or at least avoid store-bought ones. Cheers, Neale.>
Tank not flush 10/17/14
Hi again guys! Sorry to bug. I'm the guy with the standard 55 that was
off about 1mm in 3 corners when sitting on its stand.
I read the link you provided and I have now placed a 1/2" piece of foam
(Owens Corning EPS) between the tank and stand.
This helped a little. I can now slide a credit card in between the foam
and tank with a little effort. (About half the gap as before)
I haven't filled the tank at all yet.
<Do so... the gap should close handily. No problem>
Should I start to fill the tank and see if it flushes out?
Toss the tank and start over? The tank itself (the frame at least)
I'm sorry to bother again but I haven't a fish store any where near me.
And with two young daughters in the home I don't want to take any
Thank you for your time.
It is GREATLY appreciated.
Dad of two.....
<As long as the stand (and floor underneath) are otherwise sturdy, level
and planar, all should be well. Bob Fenner>
Fish Compatibility 10/17/14
I know that there are hundreds of charts telling you which species will
get along with which other species, generally. However I have yet to
find a site that will tell you which wrasse will get along with which
other wrasse or which angelfish will get along with which other angel.
<Too many variables... size of system, size and sex of individuals,
who's introduced in what order...>
I have a Melanurus (Hoevans) Wrasse and a Red Head Salon Fairy Wrasse
right now. I was wondering if it would cause a problem if I added a
McCosker's Flasher Wrasse, will they get along or fight? I have a 120
gallon mixed reef tank.
<In this size, shape system I'd stick with one of the species, mix in
some initial phase or unsexed individuals of that one. Bob Fenner>
Upcoming LA Fishguys 10/17/14
Hi Bob, Unless I have changes from other advertisers these are the links
to the, unlisted until Saturday, upcoming videos
featuring the Kessil LED Light installation on Scotts 500 gallon reef
tank.... Episode 136,
This Little Light of Mine Part 1
Part 2 http://youtu.be/19VJHux9aak
Part 3 http://youtu.be/8cTbjT9qXfU
Your commercial is in part two Jim Stime, jr
<Real good. BobF>
Aquarium Design - Installation and MaintenanceMidwater Systems
Requesting To Add My Aquarium Website on wetwebmedia.com
<Will add to the commercial fabricators area. Bob Fenner>
I recently visited your website and found it to be really interesting and
informative. While I was browsing through, I noticed your links page
features many informative resources. I would like to suggest 'SeaQuatic
Aquariums' as an additional resource which offers Custom Aquarium for sale.
I think it would be a nice addition for visitors to view; and of course,
browsing is free.
SeaQuatic Aquariums allows users to search for a wide range of array of custom
aquariums. It specializes in the design of custom aquariums of 500 gallons and
above. Following is an html link that I have prepared for your
<a href="http://www.seaquaticaquariums.com">Custom Aquariums</a>
Feel free to contact me at email@example.com if you need any
additional information. Thank you.
Re: Harlequin Tusk 10/17/14
Hi again. I have another question. If I do have to treat the tusk, is
quinine sulfate ok? I know different fish are affected by different
meds. I just want to be prepared.
<S/b fine; Labrids are no more/less sensitive than other fish families.
Emperor Angel with a pimple? 10/15/14
Hi everyone.i have a beautiful juvenile emperor in my quarantine (its a 125 gal
tank, ammonia ans nitrite 0, pH 8.0, nitrates about 20 (going to do a water
change as soon as im done typing this),he is about 4 inches , eats from my hand
just about anything i offer -he is currently beeing treated with Cupramine (test
it daily and keep it at 0.4),
<Mmm; Pomacanthids don't "like" copper exposure. This spot may well just be a
bit of congealed body mucus. Unless you have real reason for such treatment...
I'd remove the Cu... See WWM re this species, family, quinine cpd. use>
He 's been there for about 3 weeks and no signs of ich anymore ,however
yesterday i noticed a small pimple-like spot on his body .i tried taking a
picture but he wouldn't hold still for a second .he doesnt seem to be bothered
by it but i don't want it get worse.please let me know what you think.
thak you in advance
<I would not be concerned re this mark. Bob Fenner>
Is this Cyano or Dinoflagellates? Using WWM? 8 megs of
pix... sigh 10/15/14
Hi everyone,i have recently started having issues with my red sea
tank.Its 34 gal ,been set up for about 2 years.Parameters are
Ammonia/Nitrite-0 ,Ph 8.2,Dkh 9.2 / 3.3 Meg/l,nitrate 0-2.
<... do you have measurable HPO4/phosphate? Need some... you may well be
starving your purposeful livestock, and opportuning the pest algae here>
The tank has a mix of lps,sps and some softies along with a couple of
macro algaes. This brownish thing seem to be killing my macro algaes and
my palm tree polyps (I had a 6 inch colony with almost nothing left now)
and now it seems to be on my star polyp which causes it to not open
anymore. i cleaned off the power head yesterday (took it out and took it
apart and washed it in hot water, and took out and rinsed of some of
these rocks last night and today this stuff is back.Please help me
properly id this stuff.Also any tips on getting rid of it would be
<Can't tell what this is w/o sampling and looking at w/ a microscope...
as gone over and over on WWM, books and articles I've penned. Might be
both; could be a mix of these and other protists. "Tips" are easily
searched on WWM.
Re: Harlequin Tusk 10/15/14
Thanks Bob. So in the long run with the Red Breasted Wrasse and the
Tusk, do you think I will have issues?
<Quite possibly; yes>
If so, maybe I will give the Red Breasted Wrasse away. It is a nice
fish, but I think the tusk is nicer :).
<Better for systems of your size as well>
Also, how long do you think I should keep the tusk in QT? 4 weeks?
<You're at the point of diminishing returns now... more than two weeks
is about this; unless there is some compelling concern>
Raised corners 10/15/14
Good day, kind sir. I have a standard glass 55 and I built my own stand.
The stand is level as all get out. As I started filling the tank I
noticed that 3 of the 4 corners of the tank do not sit flush. They are
roughly 1 mm off the stand.
<Mmm; even when the tank is filled completely? I would place a thin
piece of foam under the tank frame to cushion, even out a bit>
The short side between two of the corners (front to back) also appears
to be 1 mm off. I was given this tank from a friend and it's an older
(15-20 yr) tank that has been resealed. Is it possible for the tank to
warp a bit?
<Ah; yes... glass itself is a super-cooled liquid... it does bend, flow
a bit... and the Silastic will give a smidgen>
And if so is it safe to continue to fill and use?
<Likely so, but I would still... Let's have you read here:
see some of the queries/responses re such leveling issues>
Any info would be greatly appreciated...
Thanking you in advance,
Concerned father of two.
Re: Raised corners
Thank you so much for the advice, sir. I will be sure to read up. Thanks
for the link.
Also thanks for an amazing site. I find it informative and educational.
Thank you again...
<Certainly welcome. BobF>
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
? re a bocourti central American cichlid with bizarre issue
Sick Central American Cichlid
I have a large bocourti which is about 8 years old. He was fine until
recently. He had some whitish clumpy material on two scales and by the
area where one fin came out of body, but that went away with
also had a trimac which developed a whitish exudative material that came
out of the area around its eye. He died after about month. Now my
bocourti has similar material, looks like a white horn, coming out of
area of its scales. Around the white area his scales are slightly red
and look damaged. Is this a fungus? Or what?
I have photos if that helps. I hate to lose the fish. Sal
< The reddish scales are probably a bacterial infection. The whitish
clumps may be a secondary fungal infection. The antibiotics you used may
have affected the bacteria that provide the nitrification of the fish
waste and you now may have elevated nitrogenous waste levels. I would
recommend a water change and then clean the filters. Try to keep the
water very clean and watch for any progress. Your cichlid is usually
very tough so I would only recommend antibiotics as a last
Yellow tang problem. Poor grammar, no reading
Hiya im hoping that u can help with a problem i have,my main tank was
infected with marine ich and some of the fish were showing signs so i
put them in a hospital tank and conducted hypo treatment for 6wks.
<Not a fan. Rarely works in the long term>
they have now been in normal s.g for the past two wks and all was fine
except the last couple of days my yellow tang has rapid breathing and
now a slight orange patch near her tail,she is still eating,i dont see
any spots on her or any of the fish,your help would be much appriceated
as im not sure what to do next,
<Search, read on WWM re these issues>
<Likely the Hypo destroyed too many hemocytes... only time and
good care will show if this fish survives, the others remain Crypt free.
re: Yellow tang problem 10/15/14
Thank you for your quick response.would you reccomend a fw dip?or should
i place her back into the dt and see if that helps?Again thank you for
<I'd skip the dip and any further med. use, and place the fish back in
the main/display. BobF>
thank you emma
Re: Angelfish and other assorted deaths.
Angelfish virus was one of the first 5 things that I thought it might
have been, and I was horrified as this would of likely destroyed my
tank. But from the little information that I can find on "Angelfish
virus" I don't
think that it's a cross species virus?
<Not a virus, but the Protozoan mentioned>
Also lacks the clamped fins, and the often described "Dripping" slime
I've noticed I have a molly that is skinny as a twig, so I'll keep an
eye on him, and a juvenile angel behaving in a very shy fashion,
hopefully it's not a recurrence.
"and naught "jumped out"? " Nothing that matched my symptoms, trouble
breathing and sitting at the top of the water is surprisingly common it
would seem, now I'm starting to realise why it's so hard to work out the
<Not w/o sampling (and often killing specimens) and microscopic
Regarding the nitrates, it's hard to tell, I have an API liquid test
kit, in date, which reads blood red, not matching to the chart.
<Too high... see WWM re>
And other test kits which state less than 10ppm, the tank is heavily
<Mixed info. B>
lta retracting. Not using WWM 10/15/14
I picked up a green LTA the other day.
<Oh? Your system, water quality, tankmates, history please>
Brought him home and did a 30 min acclim and slow water add. I put it in
his new home and it attached to a
piece of rock. Over the next few hours it moved down to the sand and
attached to the bottom of tank and has stayed there. The next morning it
retracted down to almost nothing and about 3 hours later it had refilled
and looked normal. Then again last night it did the same thing and this
morning it is back to looking fine. Is this normal?
Thought I killed it. 1.024Sg 0 nitrate
<... need some and HPO4. Why don't people search, read ahead of writing
0 nitrite ph 8.2 .25 ammonia. Did a 20% water change. Will it eat raw
shrimp and fish. There are 2 oce clowns and 5 damsels 2 sally lightfoot
crabs 1 green grab and 3 snails in the tank also. Tank is a 25 gallon
<Too small for a large Actinarian>
and has been running for about 6 months. Thanks for any information.
and all the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
High Silica Reading 10/15/14
Due to a lot of diatom growth, I bought a Hanna Silica handheld test. My
reading was 34 ppm. Is this acceptable?
<Yes; a bit high, but aquarists should not "fear" diatoms. Not harmful>
What’s the range to target? How do I reduce silica from the tank?
<Mainly via regular water changes and gravel vacuuming, replacement with
water with less [Si]>
I use RO/DI for my water changes and my TDS meter reads 0.
<Ah yes... the Si02 from your substrate/s likely>
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Male Bolivian rams digging... 10/14/14
My question is regarding the behavior of Bolivian rams. All the material I was
able to access on your site as well as the web seems to indicate that digging a
spawning site is an action that occurs prior to spawning and by the female
<Hmm... not really. Both sexes may dig a bit, but spawning normally happens on
flat stones and other smooth surfaces. Will vary, depending on what's in the
There seems to be the implication also that this occurs after a pair is formed.
<Somewhat. Both sexes look after the eggs and fry, as is usually the case where
males and females look very alike.>
I have 2 male Bolivian rams and a male ramirezi is the same tank. Tank
temperature is constant at 26 degrees Celsius
<Not ideal for the Common Ram cichlid.>
and the tank also houses harlequin Rasboras, lamb chop Rasboras, Ancistrus
albinos (Bristlenose catfish) and 2 albino cories (aeneus albinos, not paleatus
based on body and fin shape). The males chase each other around from their
territories but there are no injuries.
Today when I came from the weekend, I noticed a huge crater in the middle of my
aquarium about 4 cm deep. I had read about spawning behaviour of Ramirez's and
rams and so I was surprised when I saw this.
<Indeed. Not uncommon, but they prefer to lay their eggs on a suitable flat
stone somewhere quiet. But failing that, yes, they will make spawning pits.
It isn't uncommon for male cichlids to make these pits as a way of attracting
the female. So while what you see isn't normal, it isn't unusual either.>
I apologise for the long write-up, but my question is: is it possible that a
male ramirezi or ram dug up this spawning site singly and without a female
present, or is it more likely that one of the "males" is actually a
<Well, it's true that sexing Bolivian Rams isn't easy! But usually, the male is
a bit bigger, a bit more colourful, and has fins (especially the dorsal and
anal) that are a bit longer than those on the female. On the
other hand, they tend to form pairs easily enough, even in the tropical fish
shop! So observing behaviour should be a good indicator what's going on. In
short, sit back, observe, and wait and see what happens! Cheers, Neale.>
Harlequin Tusk; hlth., comp.
Hi Crew. I his email finds you well.
<Yes; thank you Michael>
I picked up a nice Australian Harlequin Tusk four days ago. Around 5
inches. I have him in a 55 gallon QT. Very active fish. Eating from day
one. Eats everything to include Mysis, silversides, prawns, clams, and
NLS pellets. This is actually my second tusk I am trying. First one I
had for around six weeks and laid on its side for two weeks, then final
go straight up and swam a little. I thought it was just a timid fish.
Only got him to eat Mysis at night when lights were off. After 5 weeks
in QT, I put in the display but within 2 days the other fish got to him
since all he did was lay in the open and he eventually died last a week
ago. I assume something was wrong. I never saw signs of disease but did
treat with PraziPro and Quinine Sulfate.
<Mmm; sorry for your loss>
Now my questions on the new tusk. If I see no signs of disease should I
treat with PraziPro and Quinine Sulfate as a precautionary measure?
<I would not. Australian specimens are generally very tough, and clean.
No sense impugning its health with medications if not necessary>
I would do the treatments at separate times. I was planning to do two
back to back five day treatments of PraziPro, wait a week, and then do a
single 7 day treatment of Quinine Sulfate. I just wanted to get your
thoughts on this.
<You have them. By and large am not a fan of prophylactic treatment by
hobbyists. Most all "easily knocked off" pathogens should be dealt with
by "dealers" (wholesalers mostly, perhaps collectors, transhippers to
lesser degrees). Internal complaints... Need to be addressed on a
scenario to circumstances basis>
I plan on putting the tusk in a 150 gallon FOWLR. I do have a 8" Red
Breasted Wrasse in there that did show aggression towards my last Tusk.
<Yes... not a good tankmate for each other... Cheilinus, Oxycheilinus
and Choerodons routinely don't get along>
I also have a 7" porc puffer and a 7" V. Lionfish in there. From what I
saw, the puffer and lion fish left the tusk alone. I was thinking of
taking the Red Breasted Wrasse out and put in QT for a week when I go to
put the tusk in there.
Or I can just put the tusk in and if I see aggression from the wrasse,
then try and net the wrasse and put in QT.
<Up to you. I would separate them somehow for a week or two>
This tusk is so active and the way he eats, I think he would put up a
fight and deter any aggression unlike the last one. Please let me know
your thoughts on this too. The tusk has another 5 to 6 weeks in QT so I
am not un any rush.
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>
Re: Musk Turtle Concerns 10/12/15
I just want to check in with some new symptoms Franklin seems to have developed.
We are considering taking him to a vet but only pet emergency is open today and
tomorrow in our city.
<Don't take him to an emergency vet.>
- whole body shakes
- mouth breathing
- very lethargic (he had trouble walking and ended up rolling onto his back at
- He has been spending 95% of his time on his basking spot (he slept on it last
- He has started scratching his head
- He doesn't seem very responsive (he didn't panic when we picked him up to move
him off his back).
As for right now, he did manage to climb the large rock on his basking dock and
is sunning himself.
<OK - I am officially upgrading from "concerned" to CONCERNED. These are not
normal or expected behaviors and Franklin is, to some extent, sick. For reasons
I can't explain I'm thinking a calcium deficiency.>
<The very first order of business is to dry-dock him as explained in the link I
sent. Right now - warm and MOIST is his enemy, not his friend. Keep him dry,
warm 24 hours a day and under the UVB lamp for at least 14 hours a day. Remember
we want him warm, but not BAKED. If you are lucky enough to find a heating pad
at a drug store that does not have that horrible "Auto-Off" feature - buy it and
use that under the cardboard box. Start on Medium heat, try to get his basic
substrate into the high 80's to 90 (but not higher than 93). Every day place
Franklin in a saucer of cool water just barely up to the bottom of his chin (so
that he has to put his head down a bit to drink) and let him soak for 10
<Meanwhile, search your area for a veterinarian that specifically offers
reptiles in his practice. But remember, keeping Franklin warm and dry will be
the cornerstone of a professional treatment as well. I'd suggest a
Calcium/Glucose injection (in a TINY amount) and an injection of Danofloxacin 6
Thank you for your time,
Marine Aquarium Articles and FAQs Master Index
- Set-Up 1:
Types of Systems:, Gear/Components:, Set-Up, Tanks, Stands,
Covers:, Water, Seawater, Substrates, DSBs, Electricity,
Heating/Chilling, Aquascaping, Biotopes, Travelogues.
- Set-Up 2: Filtration of All
Sorts, Skimmers, Sumps, Refugiums, Plumbing, Circulation, Pumps,
Powerheads, Aeration & Light/Lighting:.
- About Livestock: Regional Accounts:,
Collection, Selection:, Stocking:, Disease Prevention: Dips/Baths,
Acclimation, Quarantine, Behavior:, Territoriality:, Reproduction:
- Non-Vertebrate Sea Life Identification, & Microbes, Algae,
Plants, Live Rock & Sand, Sponges:
Hitchhikers, IDs, Marine Microbes, Plankton, Live Rock & Sand, Marine
Algae, Marine Plants, Sponges, phylum Porifera,
- Cnidarians I. Corals to Hobbyists,
Stinging-Celled Animals 1: Cnidarians Overall;
Hydrozoans: Jellies, Hydroids, Anthozoans; Octocorals: Organ
Pipe, Blue Coral, Star Polyps, Sea Fans, Sea Pens and Soft Corals
- Cnidarians II. Corals to Hobbyists,
Stinging-Celled Animals 2: Anthozoans; Hexacorals: Mushrooms,
Zoanthids, Anemones, Stony Corals, Tube Anemones, Black Corals
- Higher Invertebrate Life:
Bryozoans, Worms of all kinds, Mollusks (Snails, Nudibranchs,
Octopodes), Crustaceans (Crabs, Shrimp, Lobsters...), Echinoderms
(Urchins, Sea Cucumbers, Seastars, Brittlestars...), Sea Squirts,
- Fishes, Index 1: Sharks, Rays, Skates;
Marine Eels; Marine Catfishes; Squirrelfishes, Soldierfishes,
Lionfishes, Stonefishes, Gurnards, Sculpins; Anglerfishes, Seahorses &
Pipefishes, Blennioid & Gobioid Fishes, Mandarins, Clingfishes, Wrasses
- Fishes, Index 2:
Butterflyfishes, Cardinalfishes, Grammas, Grunts, Sweetlips,
Snappers, Goatfishes, Jawfishes, Big-Eyes, Basses, Anthias, Dottybacks,
Roundheads, Soapfishes, Damselfishes, Clownfishes, Monos, Hawkfishes,
Croakers, Emperors, Threadfins, Sandperches, Miscellaneous Percoids,
- Fishes Plus, Index 3: Marine Angelfishes,
Tangs/Surgeons/Doctorfishes, Scats, Batfishes, Rabbitfishes; Triggers,
Files, Puffers, Flounders, Halibuts, Soles, Really Old Fishes, Marine
Reptiles, Marine Mammals,
General Maintenance, Vacations, Moving,
Water Quality: Tests/Testing, Aquarium Repairs, Biominerals,
Supplementation, Marine Scavengers, Algae ID & Control,
- Diseases: Identification, Avoidance, Causes, Organisms,
Treatments & Pests:
Acclimation, Quarantine, Dips/Baths; Disease: Prevention,
Identification, Treatment, Pests/Control, Aquariums and Human Health,
Chemicals of Use/Dis- and Mis-use, Pest Flatworm/Anemones/Worms... &
- Marine Topics: Media Reviews:, Books:,
References, Sources, Writing, Diving, Travel Adventure, Photography,
Videography, Sources of Mortality on the Worlds Reefs, Schooling, Public
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