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Porites lobata Dana 1846, Lobe Coral. The
most common coral species in Hawai'i. Found as encrusting
colonies in high wave action areas to fifteen foot high mounds in
protected areas. Yellow to greenish in color. Often with grooves
caused by the Snapping Shrimp Alpheus deuteropus. Fr. Polynesia 2018|
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by Robert (Bob) Fenner
Turtles; WWM Help! 7/21/18
Can I introduce Mick O’Donnell, colleague of mine as a science teacher,
and experienced reptile, arachnid and insect keeper. He’s a former
entomologist and has a much more illustrious scientific background than
me! He’s offering to help us out with turtle queries. Is he the first
Australian national to join the WWM Crew?
<I do believe/think so>
Mick, could I ask you to send a brief biography — if you are happy to
share — that Bob can add to the WWM Crew page in due course?
Mick, Bob will send along instructions on how we access the email and
format our replies. It’s all very simple indeed — and I find very
Cheers to the both of you,
<Mick, the URL of our/WWM webmail is:
The Login name:
Some conventions we use in responding:
I thank you for your help/helping others through this tool.
Herps help 7/20/18
Would you take a look/see at Darrel's in-box, the turt f' on our webmail...
See if you can reply to any of these queries? I don't know enough re.
Yellow-belly aqua terrapin
Sorry to bother you.
<Not a problem.>
I found your site after searching on Google and I would like to ask you
a question about my terrapin if possible.
The problem is she cannot swim anymore, she cannot stand the water not
for a minute and she is always basking. (temperature is right). It is
not a respiratory problem either no fluid or anything wrong found in her
lungs because I took her to a vet specialist and he took an w-x-ray and
he told me that this is not the problem. he run some blood tests in
order to see if it is an infection or something and i will have the
results this coming Monday-Tuesday, he also gave her some liquid
antibiotics for a week (she started them 2 days ago- i don't think they
really help but let's hope so).
<Right. Now, when terrapins struggle to swim, it's often a build-up of
fluid inside their lungs. Respiratory tract infections may be difficult
to diagnose, but often the sick turtle will have a runny nose, may
wheeze when it breathes, and may be lethargic and disinterested in food.
The fact your vet ruled this out is positive, but I'd still keep an open
mind, especially if you see some of the other symptoms mentioned. Other
reasons for problems with swimming include constipation, egg-binding,
and possibly some type of
neurological problem or bone injury.>
By this time what should I do? She likes to sit on the floor all day,
dry and the only time she gets in the water is when I put her in my bath
tub, put a very small quantity of water and feed her. she is still
eating but with great difficulty due to the small amount of water but I
can't put more because she is panicking and freaking out.
<Terrapins don't "need" to swim as such, provided they have periodic
baths and access to drinking water. Of course it isn't normal for them
to avoid swimming! But once they're happy and healthy, they will swim.
So rather than forcing a terrapin to swim, it's a good idea to try and
establish why it isn't swimming. It might be a health issue, or it might
be an environmental issue. If there's another terrapin (such as a larger
male) it might avoid going into the water at the same time. If the water
is too cold, it will stay on land under the heat lamp. Conversely, if
the water is too warm (perhaps you're using an under tank heater or a
glass aquarium heater) it won't go into the water either. Focus on the
terrapin and its happiness, and when it's ready, it'll go into the
I wanted to tell you that for a very long period of time I've been
giving her dry pellets to eat (i don't thing they are Koi pellets) - I
will try to buy these next time, and a large quantity of different
fruits and vegs. it
seems from what i have read that i wasn't doing well?
<Opinion is divided on products like ReptoMin. Most people think they're
a good staple food, but some turtle-keepers think they're expensive for
what they are, and substitute Koi pellets. Others prefer a diet based on
fresh greens, such as Pondweed (Elodea spp.), with dried foods used only
sparingly, if at all. Either way, you aren't likely to be doing any harm
with ReptoMin, but you probably should add at least some fresh greens
now and again. Fresh greens helps provide fibre, which prevents
fruits are full of sugars and she must not eat them but very rarely?
once a month ?
<Something like that. While terrapins will certainly eat fruits, they're
a now-and-again thing, maybe once every couple weeks.>
Can you tell me if this is maybe the reason of her bad buoyancy in the
water and maybe she has internal bacterial infection that can cause gas
bubbles in the abdomen?
<It would seem unlikely. Assuming a diet based mostly on ReptoMin (or
some similar, turtle-food product) with occasional fruits, your terrapin
should be perfectly healthy. A little constipated perhaps! But ReptoMin
has calcium and phosphorus, so its bones should be fine, and the fruits
should provide a top-up of vitamins as well.>
If that's the case the blood tests would be able to show it?
<Hard to say; your vet will be able to advise here. But personally, I'd
review diet, review the environment, finish the antibiotics as
prescribed by the vet, and then see what happens.>
Thank you so much for an answer. I really appreciate it. My terrapin is
15 years old. I've had her since she was a baby.
<15 years isn't bad! So clearly you must be doing something right. Good
Metal Halide to LED 7/20/18
Hi! Just wondering if you can point me in the right direction…I have
been running 3 250 watt halides (14000k) over my reef for about 12 years
and am thinking of switching 1 of them over to an LED just to see if I
would prefer the change…less heat…lower cost to run…with all the options
out there can you give me advice as to what I would need from an LED to
replace the 250 watt Hamilton's I am running now? Which brand should I
be looking at? How many watts?
<I hear you re saving costs of operation by switching from MH to LED
technology. There are some "general rules of thumb" re LED application.
Rather than elaborating re all possibilities, would like to narrow down
the response here by asking 1) how deep your system is... the water
depth to the photosynthetic life, and 2) what sorts of photosynthates
you have, intend to have. I'll assume you're shooting for moderate
Re: Metal Halide to LED 7/20/18
The system is 2 feet deep X 2 feet wide X 6 feet long…have mostly soft
corals, a couple of crocea clams, and some LPS.
<Mmm; okay... well; do make sure to investigate means for directing,
concentrating the LED light (reflectors, lenses)... Depending on the
make/model of fixture/s employed, you're likely looking at 3-5 watts per
gallon here. Fixtures are variously reviewed on WWM. On the lower cost
end ZooMed and Current USA are faves of mine; higher end include Current
USA Pro line, Koval, Orphek and several others. None are going to appear
as bright as your MHs... and you will need to photo-acclimate your
livestock to the new lighting. See WWM re this process:
Re: Metal Halide to LED 7/20/18
Very Helpful!!! Thank you Bob!
<Welcome! Do write back w/ your decisions, input. BobF>
Gill-worm / flukes 7/20/18
We are having an outbreak of what I believe is flukes. (transparent
colorless flatworms falls of fish in FW bath). We have put fish through
10 minute fresh water dip, and many fell off however problem still
occurs and we are losing fish. We have got Prazi based medicine for gill
worms by Sera called Tremazol. Supposedly medicine is safe for
biofilter. Manufacturer advises to do 80% water change after 6 hour
<Okay; have you used it?>
Since our system is infested and worms matured, my question is regarding
parasites lifecycle and what would your suggestion be for treatment?
<Per the instructions on the packet>
How long should we keep medicine in the system in order to kill off
<Likely has to be reapplied>
I'm totally clueless about worms since we never had this issue before,
FW dip usually takes care of this on the import.
<Yes... though I'd add a modicum of formalin to your pH adjusted
freshwater dips/baths. Please see WWM re:
We have a very strong bio filter, and system is fish only quarantine
system, I assume water change is advised to remove dead worms/flukes in
order to avoid having ammonia issue due to all dead worms.
<IF there is a bunch, a good deal of dead biota/mass, yes>
Which I believe wont be the case in our system due to powerful bio
<And you, Bob Fenner>
I rebooted my tank about 4 months ago, kept most liverock, rinsed sand bed,
added some new rock, and slowly restocked corals.
I picked up a Balanophyllia which was opened at the store with their daylights
on. I acclimated it for about 3 hours, dripped acclimated, bathed in revive, and
placed mid-low level with mid-low flow.
It neither ate for almost a week nor extended any tentacles. I tried pellets,
Mysis, and a slurry of zooplankton even—nothing. It seemed to actually slime off
the food. So I tried a larger food like krill and shredded a piece, and laid it
on the balano. The first time it slowly—over like 20 minutes—but definitely ate
<Try foods like live or defrosted brine shrimp, Mysis shrimp, and other similar
sized prey. Soaking the food in a vitamin supplement can help to ensure your
coral gets plenty of nutrients; you need to feed it at least once a day, if
needed use a turkey baster to target the food directly on the Balano without
touching it or it may not open/eat, turn off your pumps several minutes during
feeding so the food does not go elsewhere. >
So everyday I have been carefully feeding it the shredded piece of krill. Seems
to get a tiny bit faster eating each day. It pops like one tiny tentacle out now
at random times but that’s it. Do you think it is still settling in or should I
<As long as it is not bleaching out, you are fine here, do bear in mind this is
a difficult species to keep in captivity, it is not photosynthetic, so, as
stated it needs to be fed regularly.>
Tank is a JBJ 28,
LED 89w par intensity up to 700
2 returns @ 266 gal each
1k icecap gyre at 80% power (800 gph set at random mode, alternating flow, and
pulse [this thing is fantastic])
I feed tank everyday except water change day—2 days frozen fish eggs/Mysis and a
dose of zooplankton, the rest of the days pellets, and finally balano gets it’s
piece of krill.
I do a 25% water change weekly.
<A 10% water change weekly will be enough, less stressful and will replenish
needed additives and trace elements.>
My sandbed seems to get dirty though even with my Nassarius snails going through
it so sticking to weekly at the moment. Hoping it may stabilize where I can do
biweekly one day, want to ensure my sps and lps get more of a chance to absorb
some food from water column.
Thank you for any feedback!
<You are welcome. Wilberth>
Re: crazing question 7/18/18
Thanks for the response. I read through the stuff on tank stands.
I realized my initial email wasn't very clear. The tank is on the garage
floor right now, no stand. I will build one at some point and ensure
that it's level in all directions.
You state that you are "concerned" about some of the crazing. What I'm
wondering is whether I should set up this tank as it is or whether it's
<Oh! I wasn't clear.. I WOULD use this tank. The crazing you show is not
major. Your fab pic showing the depth of the cracking indicates this
tank is fine for use>
Any significant chance it's going to "pop" at some point?
<Not likely, esp. IF placed on a suitable stand, surface>
Any way to find out ahead of time? I think the acrylic is 5/8 or 3/4,
which I thought was enough for a 220, but maybe I'm mistaken?
<Mmm; no, not mistaken. For the height and length of this system this
mat. thickness is fine. More thick, less bowing>
Regarding the sanding issue, there are a few scratches on the top panel
where I have not been able to find any crazing, and I'm wondering
whether I can safely sand that to get these (minor) scratches out.
<You can, could... Mmm; there are two other techniques to consider, look
into. One involves "wafting" a wing tip burner of burning gas along the
crazed area; another gingerly dripping low viscosity solvent (like
Weldon 16) onto the area. DO PLEASE visit, get input from an acrylic
fabricator re all three ahead of actually doing this job. NOT hard to do
any listed, but easy to make mistakes>
<As welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: Id if possible. 7/18/18
Hi Wet Web Media Crew/Wilberth
Is there any chance that was eggs as 4 days after going into the
aquarium the object has disappeared. <?>
<Could be; and if these are indeed eggs of some kind, you´ll find out on
the future, there’s a possibility that this is a species of sea squirt
in its reproductive stage.>
It was attached to a coco worm, which was very slowly acclimatised and
my system runs near sea water parameters for western Australia which is
where a lot of coral is collected from Australia.
Blenny compatibility 7/18/18
<Morning, Earl C. here.>
Simple question today, I know that some conspecifics shouldn’t be housed
together but is a Tailspot and a fang blenny an exception? I have a 28
gallon with a Tailspot but always liked fang blennies too—lots of
<I agree that blennies in general are interesting customers and
underrated (in my opinion). You answered your own question here though.
I would not risk this, certainly not in a tank of that size. In a larger
tank (say 75g and up) I'd think about it particularly if one had not
already settled in too much. In a 28 gallon, I definitely cannot advise
I tried to look up compatibility but not much info available. I’m not
sure they look different enough and would be open to being in different
parts of rockwork or if it just wouldn’t work out and hence the lack of
info. Hope you all are having an awesome week!
<You are thinking along the right lines (territory/rockwork/tank size)
but there are too many other choices out there to risk the kind of "fish
drama" you'll probably get.>
<Hope this help! -EC>
Re: Unexpected Dilemmas... (RMF, your input requested)
I changed the whole aquarium volume of water over the last few days, and
the fish are eating normally again, with the exception of the blue
I have tried giving her the medicated Metronidazole food, but she sucks
it up and chews on it for a few seconds before spitting it back out. She
does the same for normal food as well...what could cause this?
The loach’s wound has been healing and his eyes haven’t gotten worse but
I am concerned he might have fin rot on his tail now.
I’m not sure whether there is any other medication I should put in the
water for the loach and acara, given how the Nitrofurazone put all the
fish off feed for a while. I don’t want to risk poisoning the healthy
Last week 90% of the water was changed and the undergravel filter was
cleaned, so I doubt water quality is an issue at the moment.
P.S. For future reference what sort of fish can tolerate rough
substrates well? I did not know this would be an issue with the weather
loaches when I got them many many years ago...
<I'd cease medicating this system; only do 25 % water changes at any
given time; add carbon filtration for now and rely on good conditions to
effect a cure. Bob Fenner>
Mailbox size limit exceeded <Yeah> 7/17/18
The size limit of 50 MB for mailbox 'email@example.com' has been
exceeded. Incoming mail is currently being rejected.
Re: High phosphates wither sharks 7/17/18
I will try Phosguard thanks for your assistance.
<Let me know how it goes. Wilberth>
Re: Facial growth/white stringy stuff on Betta
I have attached a photo of the test strip guide so you can see what I mean when
I say '0' for Nitrate. Basically, that bit of the test strip wasn't turning
colors at all. It was staying white.
<Mmm; yeah. These colorimetric assay strips can be inaccurate and imprecise. I
encourage you to "check the checker"... Likely a tropical fish store will check
your water with other gear; ascertain NO3 differently here. Established systems
almost always have increasing Nitrate presence>
It turned light pink yesterday. Most of the other tests were pretty similar to
how they have been this whole time, though Alkalinity was around 80-120, which
the test strip guide says is 'ideal'.
This morning when I looked at Buddy, I noticed two white spots on his tail that
weren't there last night. I have attached some photos of that as well.
It also looks like that bump on his face is still growing. It's the same color
as his scales except the top is white. His behavior still seems normal for the
The Bacterial Infection remedy I got (Imagitarium Bacterial Infection Remedy)
<Umm; am not a fan of "alternative, natural remedies".... They're not
effective by and large. PLEASE see WWM re Betta health, treatments. Too
much for me to go over here. I would NOT be medicating this fish, system
instructs to use it every other day for 3 treatments. I did the last treatment
yesterday, so I'm not sure what the next step should be. I appreciate any
The new tank is supposed to be delivered today, so barring any damage from
shipping hopefully I'll be able to get Buddy moved into it by the end of the
week (I still need to get a heater, more gravel, and some live aquarium plants).
<Am sure all will be fine w/ the move to the better world. Bob Fenner>
Re: crazing question 7/17/18
Oops! Sorry about that. Resized photos attached.
<Ah, thank you. We lose queries when we exceed 50 megs....>
In addition to the questions in my first email, the top panel looks good except
for a few scratches. Is it ok to sand the top panel to remove?
<Mmm; I would NOT sand any crazing on any tank, system... as this will weaken
the tank. I am concerned re the pix that show crazing extending from one panel
of the tank onto the adjoining bonded panel... other than too thin material for
the application, this indicates that the tank is not level, planar... that the
stand the tank is set on itself is not level, planar. I would take this tank
down, check the stand for such, use a piece of foam between it and the tank.
Please read here re:
and the links above as much as you can, it takes to understand your situation>
<Certainly welcome. Bob Fenner>
Help Needed for Ick and Water Leak 7/17/18
I inherited a 65 gallon tank from my autistic brother after he passed, my mother
maintained it for several years with him and then on her own upon his passing,
she moved and is upgrading etc. so I have some knowledge and advice from my Mom
who has been at it awhile but am new to the hobby.
I started with dry live rock and cured it for 6 weeks. Added it to the tank with
sand and a scoop of my Mom's live sand and one of her live rocks algae and
cycled the tank. I then began slowly introducing fish over the next 2 months, I
added an ocellaris clown fish, royal Gramma, and a yellow tang. I did not
quarantine...lesson learned so please go easy on me.
After a month of introducing the tang he developed sandpaper like bumps all over
his body (literally looked like a sheet of sand paper under his skin), though
none were white, he was still eating but swimming jittery like he was itchy,
that night he scratched himself pretty badly on the rocks. The royal Gramma had
two white dots on her head and was observed scratching her head in the sand.
<Likely trematodes... maybe Paravortex>
I sought treatment for what I was told was Ick.
Using Focus and Metroplex as instructed I fed it to the fish. I also added 6
scoops to the tank as the package instructed and removed the carbon from my
filter. The snails and crabs I moved to a 10 gallon quarantine tanks while I
treated the fish (should have set it up sooner to introduce fish I know). The
tang started looking less bumpy in a couple of days, his scrapes from the rocks
started healing and he was swimming better but many of the dots turned white.
The Gramma continued having white dots and scratching in the sand. After a week
of treatment the clown (who had no spots or symptoms) suddenly started acting
off, swimming erratically in odd places and swimming into the jet (not like her)
and then by the next morning was hiding under a rock (not like her) and died
<Effects of the medication>
The royal Gramma did not eat that day and was found dead that evening. The tang
ate that day but the next day stopped eating and his fins had started to look
very frayed. Within a day he died as well.
65 Gallon tank Parameters=salinity 1.024, Temp 80, phosphates 0, Nitrates 5, and
ammonia 0Have a penguin 350 filter and a prism skimmer. To top that off, my
husband left a towel on the back of the tank after removing the dead tang for me
and it wicked water all over the carpet and there was a half inch of standing
water in the base of the stand.
<Ah, no bueno; though a nifty physics lesson.>
So we have now torn down the tank, to dry the carpet and stand. The rock is in a
30 gallon bin with a heater and the jet to try to keep it "live", the sand is
still in the tank with some water. What next? Was this Ick?
How should I handle the sand and rocks if so, to rid the tank of Ick and get
<Mmm; you could "nuke" (bleach) all. See WWM re>
I've read lower salinity to 1.01 and raise the heat to 90. I honestly am so
depressed about all that's happened this week I can't do anymore research.
<Just leave it all dry for now; or refill with just freshwater. We can talk in a
I just need to know how to proceed from here as I don't want my live rock to die
off etc. I know it will be awhile before I can add fish. Will in need to recycle
<Yes; to a degree>
( I will be quarantining fish for at least 6 weeks for sure in the future, but
what about dips etc. first I have always drip acclimated them.)
Any advice you have is welcome, but again it has been an emotional week and I am
looking for advice and have learned to quarantine fish first so go easy on me.
(Sorry for the length.)
<No worries Kris. When, where in doubt, do nothing, or as little as
possible/practical. All will become clearer in a short while. Bob Fenner>
Note: Our mail system crashed due to folks sending more than our
allowed storage of 50 megs of image files;
Please re-size and re-send your mail if you didn't receive a response the last
day or so. RMF
Black Spot disease after long power outage
<We ask that query attachments be kept to hundreds of Kbytes; yours are 14
Good Afternoon team, hope you are well. Sorry for this very long message.
Your input is much appreciated. Tank set up and parameters: Red sea reefer 350,
skimmer Bubble Magus Curve 5, 2 x250 watt heaters, wave maker. FOWLR system with
live rock (25kg), flame angel (1.5 inch) 2 x da Vinci clownfish (1 inch) and a
vampire tang (3 inches), 3 hermit crabs, 2 cleaner shrimp, 1 fire shrimp, 1
snail, free critters on live rock, temp usually around 24 degrees Celsius,
ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 15. Salinity went up over outage as I forgot to
add RO for about 5 days, its 1.028 today and just
brought it down to 1.026 over the course of 4 hours. Tank has been running for
about a year. Last fish added in January 2018. We are in the middle of a week
long power outage (entire substation burnt down due to a fire. I live in South
Africa and its currently winter which makes it worse in terms of keeping the
temperature correct during an outage. After power went out last Tuesday my tank
temp dropped to 18 degrees Celsius and then to 17 on Wednesday. Lights, skimmer
and pump was off for 2 days. I ran 4 bubble makers on batteries during the
outage to create water movement. I managed to connect a generator to the tank on
Thursday (day 2 .5 of outage).
Skimmer, heater, pump and lights on generator. From Thursday the temp was
increased to 19 on the first day then 21 and 23 on the second and third days
trying not to shock my fish with large changes in temp. Fish were very stressed
during power out and also first day or two after lights came on.
Snail looks a bit weird not sticking to glass and falling over, but still alive.
Moved snail to the top of wave maker, looks happy and stick to wave maker. My
tang appeared to be dead when I first switched lights on after 2.5 days, but
apparently just hiding, turned herself black and almost didn't breathe, started
to peek out from her cave after 30 minutes. Because I can only run the generator
during the day the tank then loses about 1 degree Celsius over night. (Need to
watch the generator and it might get stolen over night)
At night I connect battery operated bubble makers for oxygen and water movement.
Only fed the tank on day 2.5, 2-3 hours after generator was switched on and fish
seemed to be normal and not as stressed out anymore. Im feeding as normal now
and fishes are hungry, not sure exactly how much would constitute overfeeding?
<Beyond taking foods, too fat to move...>
Would live rock filtration be stressed as well?
<Yes; with change, rate of change>
My marine tank appeared to have survived the outage without any negative effects
until this morning that I noticed black spots on my tang. Please see pic
attached, I suspect my vampire (Lieutenant) tang
has black spot disease, dull black spots over the body, a few clear black ones
as well. Also a few Transparent spots on fins, she had some of this when I got
her from the LFS but this went away after quarantine. I would appreciate if you
could share your thoughts. All other fish difficult to tell if they have it,
flame has 2 black spots on fins but this does not look like the same disease as
tang and he/she is not scratching. One of the clowns might have one spot on his
forehead. After a stress event like the power outage, I think my tang (and other
fish ) will be more stressed if I try to catch it to treat it in qt?
Tang swims like normal, looks very happy in display and eats a lot as usual.
Appears healthy breathing normally etc. all other fish are acting normal, my
clowns are eating a bit less than usual but their appetite is picking up over
last 2 days since I've upped the temp. I have seachem Metroplex which I added to
their food today in two feedings. Tang ate the first feeding with Metroplex but
started to spit out the second. Other fishes ate 1 - 2 flakes of this each. Not
sure if I should continue with medication or rather add this to the water, it
says it is reef safe.
<I'd hold off on further treatments for now>
I am working to correct my water parameters after realizing its not correct
today. I have performed a water change 10% and reduced salinity to 1.026. I also
read that hyposalinity could help with black spot so I am planning to keep
reducing salinity slowly to 1.020 over the next 3 days and then keep it there
for the next 6 weeks. Not sure if I should continue to raise temp? If yes to how
much would be ideal. Im concerned about amount of oxygen in high temps, perhaps
some guidance how this affects the fish and the disease/parasites? My LFS
suggested a temp of 28 degrees Celsius, but I read contrary info that this would
speed up the disease progression in the fish’s system as well. Trying to keep
the temp constant on 23 degrees Celsius now. I am currently feeding ocean
nutrition formula 2 and brine flakes, my fish loves the brine shrimp plus
flakes. I usually feed frozen food as well but all went bad with power outage.
cleaner shrimps are all over my tang to clean him, not sure if this helps.
He is parked in the cleaning station every 30 minutes. Only weird behaviour was
that tang started scratching himself in a different way than usual yesterday(my
tang usually scratches his side once or twice a week that I see on the gravel,
never had any spots that I could see) as from yesterday the tang flips more than
180 degrees to scratch, this afternoon scratching seems less, more cleaning
activity. I would really appreciate your input on how to Treat the potential
black spot for the tang and others if applicable. I am hoping that our
electricity is restored today at midnight as I will then have permanent heating,
skimming, pump on in the fish tank.
<The spots may be "nothing"; simply environmental stress; could be Paravortex
(see WWM Re); but in any, all cases, doubtful this is a dangerous parasitic
situation. Do your best to maintain optimized conditions for now. Bob Fenner>
Black Spot disease after long power outage
Thank you for getting back to me so quickly!
Black spots are fading fast, this morning barely visible, so your thinking it
being stress related was spot on.
This morning noticed that my tang also have 3 distinct salt grain look alike
spots on fins that wasn't there last night. Looks like white spot disease.
<Again; doubtful this is pathogenic; a disease due to a biological agent>
Tang is still looking healthy and eating. Breathing is normal. Other fishes not
Salinity now on 1.025 and nitrate 10. Still battling the power outage, water
temps now on 23 during the day (with generator) and drops to 21 overnight.
<No fun for all>
Would you recommend any treatment? What would you suggest at this moment?
Lowering salinity a bit? Temperature higher?
<None of the above>
Or nothing and just monitoring
<The latter only>
Thank you & Kind Regards,
<Cheers, Bob Fenner>
High phosphates wither sharks
I have a 550 gallon salt water fish only tank. I two sharks
approximately 2 feet long , epaulets and coral cat. I have been able to
control the nitrates but not the phosphates, it us off the chart.
<Please tell me more about your tank equipment, other tank mates and
I am looking into hooking up a reactor with Phosguard but have read that
some phosphate removers are not good with sharks. I was making sure
Phosguard is okay to use with them.
<Phosphates are very hard to keep at low levels in Elasmobranch systems
because of their feeding habits(amount and frequency). Fortunately high
phosphate levels are tolerated by must shark species and YES, phosphate
removers are toxic for them because of its ferric oxide composition
which affects their electroreceptive system, I suggest you to use a deep
sand bed refugium with algae(Chaeto/Caulerpa sp.) to keep phosphates in
check; do frequent water changes and use a high quality skimmer rated to
your tank gallon capacity to export nutrients before they break down.
<You`re welcome. Wilberth>
Chocolate chip starfish 7/16/18
I have a chocolate chip starfish which I purchased July 10. He ate some
raw shrimp the next couple of days.
I tried feeding him today and yesterday, but he would not take the food.
I has a fifty five gallon tank been set up cycling for six to seven
weeks with no fish in tank. When tank finished cycling, I purchased him
and a Dottie back and a lawnmower blenny. All water parameters was
tested and checked out good. I have current in tank.
I wonder is the current in tank bothering him. Other animals doing fine.
What am I doing wrong?
First time having a starfish. Thanks for your help.
<Do read here:
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Re: Herps help 7/15/18
One person. Have written. Will see if he responds. A retired teacher and
before that mosquito scientist. A decent chap. But might not be his cup
<I'll hope he's willing, able to join us. Cheers, B>
Marine Aquarium Articles and FAQs Master Index
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