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Obgilbyina queenslandiae (Saville-Kent 1893), the Queensland Dottyback. Queensland, Australia endemic supposedly.... To six inches in length. A male in S. Sulawesi, Indo.
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by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Re: Turtle question; WWM donation button     6/18/19
Hi everyone!
<Wowzah!>
I'm 6 days out of hip replacement surgery so I might be a little fuzzier than normal ...
<Am permanently fused so>
I just went to the web site and clicked the Donate button.
It took me to Pay Pal, where I donated $16,261,2121.28
<and I got the pop-up you would expect>
I then tried $10.00 and it asked all the right questions and thanked me.
Then it took me back to WWM and I got an email receipt
So -- can someone start from the beginning and tell me what does and does not work?
D
<I tried for just a sawbuck and got the same. Thank you, BobF>

Crab ID     6/18/19
<Hi Marie, could you please resize your pix to just a few hundred Kbs and resend? Wil.>
Crab ID     6/18/19

Hi.
<Hi Marie, thanks for resizing your files.>
I have had a hitchhiker crab since set up and sent you a email a few months back for an ID but the pictures I had weren't great so didn't really get an ID.
I now have a fallow tank as I had to remove my fish due to white spot and the crab has come out of the rocks fully and I was able to get some better pictures. If I could get an ID on him if possible please that would be great and some advice to whether he can stay in the tank or whether I should remove and place in my sump.
<It appears to be a Gorilla crab, I wouldn't place it in the main tank.>
Thanks in advance,
Marie.
<Cheers. Wil.>

Porcupine Puffer with Possible Lockjaw     6/18/19
My 15 year old, 10 inch, Porcupine, “Fugu”, appears to have gotten lockjaw. He exhibits all of the same signs as what I’ve read throughout forum posts online. He generally has good energy, normal behaviors, he tries to eat, he just can’t open his mouth enough to get a typical piece of food in. Historically, I’ve fed him defrosted Key West pink shrimp, since it comes without additives from Whole Foods. I am sorry to say that I didn’t realize this shrimp would create this problem, as posts on various forum focus on krill. I have now read the Wet Web Media post on Thiaminase in other foods.
<Ahh; yes. This issue and overgrowth of teeth are most common issues w/ this group of fishes>
The issue has gone on for two weeks now since it first started. I had fed him one large size shrimp, he was fine, two days later he tried but couldn’t open his mouth. It’s been that way since. He tries, just can’t seem to open his mouth and get it. There is what I believe is some good news: he is eating. I’ve been able to (at risks of my fingers!), hand feed him 3 or so baby size (about an inch) octopus tentacles every day. It’s a slow process taking many tries on both of our parts, but his mouth is open enough that i can just get an end in there, and he sucks it in. It’s not the belly filling food he’s used to getting, but i do believe it’s keeping his energy levels up.
Octopus appears to have significant vitamin benefits, but I’m not able to find any data online to show that it contains the B1 necessary. I have VitaChem supplement but he refuses to eat food soaked in vitamins.
<A good idea to add such (vitamins, nutritional supplements) directly to the water... Marine organisms drink their environment; unlike freshwater>
I’m considering injecting it into the small tentacles if i can. However, I’m trying to determine if that will be enough, or if I need to switch to the tube feed method described in an old post on the puffer forum. That post was a wonderful description of a cure of lockjaw through tube feeding. (https://www.thepufferforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=29156&hilit=Lockjaw ). It won’t be easy, but I’m all-in to get Fugu well.
<Worth trying>
I’ve tried to reach out to local marine biologists, but I was looking for any thoughts you have generally, and specifically with regard to whether the small tentacles a day are enough or if it’s time to jump to tube feed. And if tube feed, I’m assuming its ok to mix the food (Spirulina Brine and some drops to VitaChem) with tank water to inject in his stomach?
<Yes it is>
Finally, can dosing vita chem with B1 into the tank itself assist (I have read B1 dissolves in water?).
<It is one of the water-soluble vitamins>
Thanks so much for your thoughts. My parameters are below.
Scott G.
West Palm Beach
180 G. reef, pH 8.3, temp 77-79, phos .1, Nitrate 3, Nitrite .01, MG 1600, CA 450, KH 8, only 5 other small fish in tank, running for 5 years (Fugu has moved a lot with me)
<Thank you for sharing. Large puffers in initial good health can go w/o feeding for weeks... I do hope yours recovers. Bob Fenner>

Re: Fancy Goldfish question....White bumps on the Wen?        6/17/19
Will do!
<Cheers dear.>

Re: Replacing a gourami "show" fish        6/17/19
Thanks for your help!
<Welcome.>
I looked up your two suggestions and, as you noted, they are scarce and/or exorbitantly priced here... but cool to read about!
<Sorry they're not so available where you are. Ctenopoma acutirostre is relatively widely traded and inexpensive here in the UK, but very seasonal.>
I did find a medium sized Trichopodus leeri and decided to give him a shot, since my Trichopterus thrived for so long in this vertical tank format.
<Good choice.>
When the tank is full, he really does have quite a bit of room in the top half.
<Sounds fine.>
As a bonus, I found him at a LFS instead of a big box. I’ll keep you guys posted. Always appreciative of your attention and responses!
<Good luck! Neale.>

Black Tetra; breeding        6/17/19
Dear Crew. I am engaging in breeding aquarium fish. I saw some of your articles while searching for the internet and found them interesting. I though you may help me as I have some problems in black tetra (Gymnocorymbus ternetzi) breeding. If you don’t mind, I’d like to ask following questions.1. What the water values be when rearing black tetra brood stock? a. pHb. gHc. kh (should it be ?)d. Temperature. Photoperiod2. Do black tetras reproduces in the same way as neon tetra as they are from the same family? a. Do they reproduce without any problems during a certain period and face with insemination problems in remaining periods?3. During breeding: a. pH b. gh. kh (it is especially not preferred in breeding the characin group, is it also valid for black tetra?)d. lighting e. temperature. Should we set the breeding water as black water; If yes, do I need to use tannic acid or Catappa for this? Thank you in advance for your assistance.
<The Black Widow Tetra is relatively easy to breed. It's a classic egg-scattering species, so something like bushy floating plants such as Cabomba or killifish spawning mops can be used for them to scatter their sticky eggs, or you can go old school and place them in a tank with glass marbles across the substrate, and the eggs will roll into the cracks between the marbles. Either way, the aim is to minimise egg predation by the adults. Condition the fish beforehand, using a wide range of frozen or ideally live foods, ensuring the fish are healthy and sexually mature. Females when they come into breeding condition will be notably rounded, and the males will often seem to 'sniff' around them, chasing the females or displaying in front of them. Some people place pairs in the breeding tanks, others small groups. Keep the tank dark, with maybe a sliver of light from outdoors to help the fish recognise night and day. You can certainly add blackwater extract, Catappa leaves, etc. to condition the water and tint it brown if you want. Either way, spawning takes place when water temperature is maintained a couple degrees higher than normal for a couple days, and you do need to ensure the water is slightly soft and acidic (exact pH and hardness not too crucial, but around 5-10 degrees dH, pH 6.5 would be ideal). Really, your biggest problem is not so much spawning them (they'd like spawn in a soft water community, let alone breeding tank) but ensuring the eggs aren't eaten and, when the fry become free swimming, about 4-5 days after hatching, you have the tiny live foods the fry will need. As with most tetras, we're talking infusoria initially, and baby brine shrimp a few days (maybe a week) later. You may have some success with finely powdered flake foods and other baby fish foods (Hikari First Bites, Liquifry, etc.) but these tend to be a bit unreliable with tetras. Hope this helps, Neale.>

Re: Skinny Narrow-Lined Puffer      6/16/19
Thank you so much! I will pick up those other foods today so we can start that. I really appreciate your advice.
Kimberly
<Glad to help you and your A. manilensis! BobF>

Re: Turtle question; donation button on WWM      6/16/19
Thanks you! I tried to contribute via PayPal but had no success. Can you give me an account to send you a donation?
Thanks again
Eric
<Thank you for this; not sure why the 'tip jar' isn't working, but will ask Bob F. In the meantime, glad to help! Neale.><<Is working now... RMF>>

Re: Fancy Goldfish question....White bumps on the Wen? GF book rec.s       6/16/19
Yes, I am too. I will think about it.
<Mmm; do see Neale's less expensive goldfish book suggestions here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bksfwbrneale.htm>
Thank you,
Mandy
<Welcome. BobF>
Re: Fancy Goldfish question....White bumps on the Wen?      6/16/19

Yes, I see that. But none of those books are specifically about Fancy Goldfish. I just wish there was an updated book on them, that included the newest hybrids they have come up with. Maybe I'll ask the breeder of the ones I bought,....they might have a suggestion.
<I have a few. B>
Thanks Bob.
Mandy
Re: Fancy Goldfish question....White bumps on the Wen?      6/16/19

Morning Bob,
Ok. What are they? Your suggestions.
<Please see the ends, bibliographies of pieces posted on WWM re Goldfish (the bibliographies). Bob Fenner>

Growth on rock       6/16/19
Hi its luke about the pest growth in my reef tank its slimy to the touch and comes of with ease im not dosing any carbon source ect
<... Umm; your files are too large Luke, but deleted in time so as not to crash our mail program. This is almost assuredly mainly BGA, Cyanobacteria. Don't see such cells in your micro-pic... but should be there. Sans nuclei, simple, single chromosome.... SEE, as in read on WWM re control:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/BGAcontF20.htm
and the linked files at top. Bob Fenner>
re: Cyano      6/16/19

Cant seem to open the link for file on that
<Try the search tool... on every page>
re: Growth on rock beetts post on fb

That is another picture took of it buddy
<Not enough magnification, or resolution. Keep reading! BobF>

Cyano... not a reader       6/16/19
Right time for me to raise no3 in my system then as im testing 0 and my po4 is 0.034 so there is a imbalance there then once i get my no3 up should disappear then
<Maybe... B>

Re: Desjardini tang in decline       6/16/19
Hi Wil,
<Hi Simon>
Thanks for the quick response,
<Not so quick now, ha-ha...sorry for the delay, was out of town >
looking at the water test results I think I need to still do another water change, nitrates at 10ppm, phosphates at 0.5 ppm.
I did see him swim mid water briefly yesterday when the lights were part off (blue only), I'd say he seems a bit more active but not much.
<Dim lights help in reducing stress>
Will do another 20% water change and see if he picks up.
<Good>
It did occur to me that I had a feather duster that lost his quill and recently left his casing, I thought he was still recovering but could be that he passed and could have caused a spike in the water parameters.
<Possibly>
Keeping my fingers crossed he recovers with better water, any other advice greatly appreciated.
<Water changes are always beneficial; I think you’ll see an improvement in your tang.>
Thanks,
Simon
<Welcome. Wil.>

Replacing a gourami "show" fish        6/15/19
Hi everyone... I just wrote you the other day about a suddenly picky Trichopodus trichopterus with respect to diet... sure enough, I found her dead this morning.
<Oh dear.>
4 years old, 3" (body) long, and recently slowing down a bit, I was not surprised, yet I kept the water clean etc. just in case. Sad. It was a good run for her.
<Agreed.>
Now, I have five mature cherry barbs (Puntius titteya) and two, year-old Synodontis nigriventris catfish in my vertical, 15-gallon tank.
<Both nice species, though 15 gallons is a mite small for Dwarf Synodontis.>
I would like to occupy the upper level of the tank with another gourami. I figure a (pair of?) Trichogaster labiosa could be a good choice, since I see your team recommends them often.
<They are certainly robust and undemanding.>
I'm worried, however, about the aggressiveness of the catfish.
<Can't imagine Synodontis upsetting Trichogaster labiosa, given space enough for both. >
Perhaps a Trichopodus leeri?
<Another excellent species, though that much bigger, so less obviously suitable for a 15 gallon system.>
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated... Thank you! --Matt
<Can you obtain Ctenopoma? Microctenopoma fasciolatum for example is a tough, attractive fish that places few demands on the fishkeeper, though it will need frozen/fresh food, not flake. Some of the large Betta species might also work, such as Betta pugnax. These are gentle fish, but should be fine with Cherry Barbs, and provided the Synodontis are well-fed, these latter shouldn't bother them much (they can be fin-nibblers if hungry).
Cheers, Neale.>

Turtle question        6/15/19
My turtle (yellow belly slider?) is floating butt up on the bottom of aquarium. Eats, suns and sleeps normally. Is it a bladder issue?
<No. Yellow Belly Sliders do not have swim bladders.>
Thanks
Eric
<Will direct you here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/treating%20RES%20Dis%20DarrelB.htm
Turtles that lose their balance when swimming most often suffer from some type of bacterial infection. Since your chap is otherwise healthy, antibiotics should work quickly and effectively. A vet will help on this.
If not treated, such bacterial infections usually end up killing the
<?>

Fancy Goldfish question....White bumps on the Wen?        6/15/19
Hi again,
<Sass>
I am looking for someone to tell me that white growths on my huge Oranda's Wen are not ICK.
<Mmm; not likely they are ich at all, IF this is the only site where the spots are. Instead these are discrete body slime accumulations. Nothing to worry about>
I see people who say that it's normal for these fish to get some lumps and bumps of a whitish nature on their Wens as they grow.
<This is so>
But this white spot looked like 3 little lumps in a group which have how irrupted and are hallow holes, like the tops blew off and something came out!
There are more spots on the Wen, but I don't see any spots on the rest of the fish. Except for his male spots on his gill covers. He's definitely a boy.
But now I am concerned that if the spots opened something that came out is now in my pond and looking for more fish to get onto. I have 5 three inch fancies and the 1 six inch one,....in a big pond, with water lilies, pond hyacinth and pond poppies. If I put salt in it will kill the plants!
<Too likely to hurt them, yes>
We have 2 Pond Air stones going, and a nice full waterfall, for oxygenation.
We clean the overflow filter box every 2 days, it get dirty fast, but is easy to clean. I have a UV light in the pond, but it doesn't seem to do much ....still have lots of algae growing in it. Not green water though, just on the sides of the pond, and since I know goldfish should eat greens I am not too worried about the algae. In my mind green algae means healthy water!
LOL!
Because our water tends to get acidic quickly I have the waterfall coming down on a nice piece of Texas Holey Rock to keep the minerals in there for buffering. It has been raining a lot, so I haven't done any water changes,.. .since the pond gets full and then water trickles out between the top stones on the edges. Would you do 50% water changes on pond goldfish too?
<Only 20, 25% intervals; during the summers, once a week; none when the water temp. falls below 55 F.>
I don't mind, I'm home all the time, so if it needs to be done, I'll do it! In the house we did 20-25% water changes per week regularly.
<Ah, good>
The water may not be as warm as it should be for fancy goldfish,....it's been a very cold spring and early summer. For a few days it got hot here and we thought it would stay warm, so we put them back in from being indoors for the winter. I suppose we could ad a heater to the pond if you think it might have caused the problem. If it even is a problem. I don't know what to think He is happy, active, eating well and swimming normally. None of the other seem to have white bumps yet.
We have been feeding them Goldfish Crisps,...but after reading on your goldfish site, i have ordered the Spectrum Goldfish pellets and will use those instead.
(I use spectrum for my reef tanks too.)
<I do as well; a fine product>
Unfortunately I can't get good pictures of it now in the pond. I hope my description helps.
So, is this a normal thing that happens on Wens sometimes? Or is it a nasty
bug that I need to kill off?
<The former>
This same fish had some red lines in his tail while he was in the tank for the winter,....we thought he had caught it on something and had bruised it, but now after reading your site it looks like it was fin rot? Or a Fungus?
<Likely septicemia of a sort from simple stress>
It seemed to resolve on it's own though. The 6 were in a 75 gallon tank, and we tested regularly, so I don't believe it was water quality.
These chubby goldfish are like the Golden Retrievers of the fish world, I'd be very sad if we lost one of them. They have so much personality!
Amanda Wilson in NJ, USA
<I would do nothing (overt) here. NOT treat, but be patient. Enjoy your system, pets. Bob Fenner>
Re: Fancy Goldfish question....White bumps on the Wen?        6/15/19

Thanks again Bob! It's a zoo over here! LOL!
<My fave Mandy. BobF>
Mandy

Re: Fancy Goldfish question....White bumps on the Wen?
Now, GF book endorsement question
        6/15/19
Hey, while you are there, what do you think of this book? It's older, 2001, but it looks like besides your little book on goldfish it's the only thing that really has any details. The rest of the books are just a quick overview this one looks good. But it's expensive! Is it worth $100? https://wwwamazon.com/Fancy-Goldfish-Complete-Guide-Collecting/dp/0834804484
Fancy Goldfish: Complete Guide To Care And Collecting Hardcover May 1, 2001
By Erik L. Johnson (Author), Richard E. Hess (Author)
Mandy
<Mmm; well, I collect aquarium and related books, magazines... including goldfish, pond. This is a good book IMO, but am surprised at the used price. Yikes! Bob Fenner>

Skinny Narrow-Lined Puffer        6/15/19
We have a 125-gallon saltwater FOWLR aquarium with a 40-gallon sump.
Current inhabitants are a narrow-lined puffer, Humu trigger, yellow tang, yellow belly blue tang, Clarkii clown, two filefish, flame Hawkfish, and a male and female bird wrasse. All have been in our tank for at least two years. We've had the puffer for at least four years, but we're not sure exactly how long. Unfortunately, I do not know our water parameters, but our tank is professionally maintained and when he was here last week, we were told our water parameters were all great. He tests it every visit. He
mentioned to us, though, that our puffer was looking skinny. Sure enough, his sides are actually caving in. We've been watching him and he is still eating and acting normal, but he's definitely way too thin as you'll see in the attached photo.
<I see this>
He also doesn't show any external signs of illness as far as changes in color, ich, or similar. We feed a diet of Marine Cuisine, Emerald Entree, and Omega brine shrimp plus foods meant for human consumption that we freeze prior to feeding including small shrimp, mussels, and clams.
<Good foods, protocol>
He also picks at the rocks. We haven't had a fish die in several years and we'd prefer not to have this fun little guy die now. Any ideas on what might be wrong and what we can do to treat it?
<Likely just not eating enough food... not disease... Puffers do "get thin" in the wild, captivity; usually not a problem.>
I appreciate any advice you can give.
Thank you,
Kimberly
<I would specifically nutrify, feed your Arothron/puffer... a larger opened clam/bivalve; a whole size-able cocktail shrimp (unboiled) once a week; to see if this restores it to a more girthy appearance. Bob Fenner>

 

Ceramic tile as bare bottom        6/15/19
Hello Crew,
<Bill>
I have a FW 240g display tank, 400g total volume, including sumps and wet-dry. In the DT, I want to replace the 1/2” layer of gravel substrate with impervious ceramic tile. This will provide the cleanliness benefits of bare bottom, but still allow for a more pleasing aesthetic. Do you think there are toxicity issues with the tile? If not,...
<IF the tile is sufficiently fired; no problem/s>
The bottom dwellers in the tank are ~30 Botia (angelicus and striata) and 8 Synodontis multipunctatus. In the tank, there are dozens of caves, rocks, logs, and it is heavily plastic-planted. Will the bottom dwellers, especially the Botia, be disconcerted by not having gravel to route (sp?) around in?
<I do think they are better off with gravel/sand substrate... And would not personally switch to the tile. If this were a temporary situation (e.g. passing at a wholesalers), my opinion would be different; but substrates do many (good) things for a system, its life.>
Thanks!!
Bill
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Re: Turtle question; donating to WWM        6/15/19
Thanks you! I tried to contribute via PayPal but had no success. Can you give me an account to send you a donation?
Thanks again
Eric
<Am surprised... the link at the top, right corner of most all pages should work. Have just tried:
http://wetwebmedia.com/before/index.htm>

Desjardini tang in decline        6/14/19
Dear Crew,
<Hi Simon>
I've tried searching through the answers on Tangs but can't find anything that fits exactly what I'm seeing.
I have 2 inch Desjardini Sailfin Tang who's been in my 80 gallon tank for about a month and a half.
<Will need bigger quarters in time, Tangs need plenty of space to thrive.>
He's normally very active scooping up all food before my fuzzy lionfish can get anywhere near it. My other livestock are a 2.5 inch red fire shrimp, two conchs and a few turbo snails.
Everyone gets on fine so there's no stress there.
Last night the normally very active tang stopped swimming around and started swaying on the tank floor in a cave near the fire shrimp (maybe looking for but not getting a service).
He spent most of the night swaying side to side on the floor and then moved to another corner of the tank where he swayed back and forth rather than side to side. He seems to just sit on the gravel and is very lethargic and
not eating at all vs. the previous voracious appetite.
<How are your water parameters?...numbers.>
He came to the front of the tank still hugging the gravel bed and I couldn't see any visible signs of parasites or disease.
<Not always visible and less in the early stages of a disease>
I'm not sure if I imagined this but it seemed like the area around his stomach looked darker (under the skin).
<Could be something environmental... water quality, oxygenation, etc.)>
I put a bottom feeder shrimp tablet in to see if that could encourage him to eat and eventually he bumped into it, more hit it a few times with his nose to spread it around but didn't seem to actually eat it. I've also tried putting some nori in the tank to see if that could encourage him to eat and tried garlic soaked brine shrimp but nothing
enticing him to eat at the moment as he's not leaving the bottom of the tank.
The tank is 10 yrs old but I've only had it for 6 months so it pretty much cycled again, I usually do a 20% water change every 2 weeks although I was behind this time as the LFS water supply was out when I went to collect.
I urgently did the water change today but no recovery from the tang, having read around I'm quite worried that he may not last, any advice on any course of action to take would be greatly appreciated.
<If you already performed a water change, I suggest leaving it without trying to feed it and see if it shows any signs of improvement in the next hours.>
Thanks, Simon
<Cheers. Wil.>

Shrinking Anemones; beh.        6/14/19
We visited several tide pools in BC Canada on Vancouver Island. At one tide pool, the anemones when touched would shrink into a donut looking shape. See picture of one on the right as a “donut”, one on the left starting to curl up and the others fully opened. If we touched all of them, we had a cluster of “donuts” Is this normal? Why did they do it?
<Yes, it is normal, . Anemones shrink when touched because they feel threatened, usually by natural predators, your hands are a possible predator in this case; shrinking is a defense mechanism to protect their tentacles.>
Thank you for any reply. Carol Hecox.
<Welcome. Wil.>


Anthopleura... xanthogrammica? elegantissima? Nice pic. B

Re: Coral And Marbled Catsharks       6/14/19
Okay thanks again, I was pondering the thought of adding a giant clam (clams? More research to be done) to my system for the reason being their attractive natural biological filtration. I doubt the sharks could do any damage to it, due to its size and shell obviously, but I'd figure its better to be safe and ask you. Do you think the clam would be safe to add to my system?
<Well Kasey, it can be done but keep in mind that even though clams actually provide some sort of biological filtration, like lowering nitrates, other water parameters should be near perfect to keep the clam thriving and sharks produce a lot of waste. The main drawback I see here, is the zooxanthellae algae, which lives in the clam’s mantle and requires very high lighting to perform optimal photosynthesis, and that light intensity may damage your shark´s eyes.>
Thanks once again.
<Welcome. Wil.>
Re: Coral And Marbled Catsharks       6/14/19

Yeah I also read that they need higher light levels than coral. What are your thoughts on bio pellet reactors?
<Am not a fan, I prefer DSB refugiums with Chaeto; I know many people like bio pellet reactors, and I have even installed many of them by request, but personally, I've always used more natural filtration methods with very good results. Wil.>

Re: Coral And Marbled Catsharks. More chatting, fdg., comp.         6/13/19
Fed the sharks today (4 days since last feeding) and when the squid hit the water the sharks simultaneously came out of their caves to eat, no seriously the very second the squid hit the water they were out. Also they swimming around the tank significantly faster than normal. Good signs I hope.
<Yep, good signs. The faster swimming is called feeding frenzy.>
Anyway I was reading WetWebMedia sharks/diseases and came across this quote from MikeD on a post (no date on the post): "Mine is a bottomless pit, with its FAVORITE food being well rinsed moist cat food! (seafood
variety**grin**) It also eats raw shrimp, fish and squid." My question is moist cat food, is that actually something you can feed a shark? He was talking about his bamboo shark, but still. I know some of those posts are older, but he said his shark was in good health also.
<There have been plenty of myths re shark feeding, I’ve even heard of a guy that fed boiled eggs to his Zebra shark!... The fact that sharks accept “other” foods is because they’re hungry but that doesn’t mean it is good for their long-term health, I recommend you keep feeding them the accustomed foods, you’re in the right path now.>
Thanks again for your help and time.
<You’re welcome. Wil.>
Re: Coral And Marbled Catsharks        6/13/19

Are there any social fish that should be avoided (Anthias and such?)
<Do you mean as tank mates?...Anthias are fine. Wil.>
Re: Coral And Marbled Catsharks        6/13/19

Sorry, yes as tank mates. I've read they don't do well being introduced into community tanks, but mine were the very first fish in my tank.
< I would leave them, I take it that they coexist peacefully, right?...Wil.>
Re: Coral And Marbled Catsharks        6/13/19

Okay, would it maybe be a bad idea then to feed live ghost shrimp? Do you think it may entice them to hunt more, rather than have them taking their food from a feeding stick?
<You can alternate the two meals but it's okay to feed them with the stick, they're used to it in your tank. Wil.>
Re: Coral And Marbled Catsharks        6/13/19

Yes, often hiding together throughout the day. Just out of curiosity Marmoratus and Macleayi don't have teeth, well sharp teeth capable of tearing correct?
<But they may nip unaware fish tails, especially at night. Wil.>

Emperor Angel with swim bladder problem        6/13/19
Good Morning,
<Good morning Jimmy>
I have a 180g FOWLR , prob 150 – 200# LR , one Heniochus Butterfly adult 15 years old, Adult Emp Angel raised from youth now 6” adult 10 years old, 2 yellow tail damsels, one clown, 2 brittle starfish ( 15 years old ) , 2 skunk cleaner shrimp, 1 fire shrimp. The tank has been running for 20 years. For the last 2months there has been to water change, only minimal tank “maintenance .” Water top off, cleaning skimmers ( 2 EuroReef ) and feeding . When I finally returned from being away, I immediately noticed that the Emp Angel had a swim bladder problem. ( Tilting to one side , unusual swimming pattern ) All livestock was eating . Upon testing the water I noted that my nitrate levels were off the scale ( over 160 ppm) as were phosphate levels. <Yikes!>
Specific Gravity was 1.028.<Too high> Zero ammonia, zero nitrite . I was surprised that I had not lost any livestock! Through a series of daily water changes over a couple of weeks ( with the first being a40% water change ) I have managed to bring the nitrates down to 10-20ppm. SG 1.023. 2 weeks into the process the Emp Angel looks 50% better but not back to norm.
<Next time please take your time to fix your writing.>
Do you think that this fish is likely to recover swim bladder function ? Any suggestions ?
<This may be just “air gulping”... your angelfish could have been gasping at the surface because of the too high salinity and/or high nitrates, If you have restored water levels, just give a few days to see if it goes back to normal.>
Thanks Jimmy I apologize if this was sent twice
<You’re welcome. Wil.>
Re: Emperor Angel with swim bladder problem        6/13/19

Thank you so much .
<You're welcome>
My writing looks much different and better on my original message . Looks like it got chopped up and re formatted . I am very sorry .
<Ohh, I see... no worries>
Thanks for your response Jimmy
<Glad to help. Wil.>

Acro Spots       6/12/19
Bob,
<Eric>
Do these look like red or black bugs on my Staghorn?
<Mmm; no; don't see any "legs".... Bob Fenner>
Thanks,
Eric

cropped

Re: Acro Spots       6/12/19
Any idea what they could be? Haven't added anything new. Also haven't seen any damage on the coral but this is one that gives me almost no polyp extension, even at night.
<Maybe... algae colonies. Scrape some off and look at under a low power 'scope mate. BobF>
Re: Acro Spots       6/12/19
Any tips on how to get some polyp extension on this stag?

<Oh, yes; the usual: "good water quality", adequate N, P, K... likely the supplementation of iron and zinc... Using ORP/RedOx as a measure of system viability...>
I do have a few other colonies that are not doing great. I attributed it to my light upgrade a few months back even though they haven't recovered. I have a feeling the right side of my tank is the problem.
<Borrow a PAR, PUR meter and check>
Whether it's the flow that is being blocked or some type of allelopathy.
<See/read on WWM re my overall comments re... the use of ozone/O3 mostly... perhaps punctuated use of chemical filtrants (activated carbon/Chemipure, PolyFilter)... Bob Fenner>
Re: Acro Spots       6/12/19

Sorry Bob, forgot to include.
<Wow! Some Cnidarians now! BobF>

Lionfish Upper Jaw Issue       6/12/19
Hi, really hoping you can give me a bit of advice here. I have a Pterois volitans lionfish that seems to have dislocated or injured his upper jaw. I have looked this up online and your website and most say to just wait and keep water quality up, but I haven't seen him eat in over two weeks now so I am concerned about the fish.
<These fish/es can go much longer sans feeding; at times months depending on the condition, size they started at, the system, tankmates...>
I have seen him fully open his mouth and do the yawning motion but when he goes after food its only once and he does a half strike and doesn't seem to take the silverside.
<I would NOT feed much in the way of silversides. See/read on WWM re Lionfish foods/feeding/nutrition>
Would live food be a recommendation at this point?
<Yes; definitely worth trying>
David Hart
Thank you again I look forward to hearing your response.
<I'd be (continuing) patience here. IF this fish is going to survive, it will resume feeding. Bob Fenner>

Long Worm ID     6/11/19
Hi Crew!
<Hey Danilo!>
I have one worm in my tank I am a little unsure of. I am leaning towards guessing he is a bristleworm but just want to be absolutely certain. My little 28g nano tank is about 2 years old since I rebooted—very steadily growing and overall it’s “happy” now.
<Ah good; and yes; this is an Errantiate Polychaete; one of many bristleworm species>
He’s got to be at least 6–8 inches plus possibly, the mouth seems very small, don’t see oversized pincers, and most of my critters don’t seem to be going missing especially my tiger pistol and yellow watchman goby that share the network of tunnels through the bottom with it, as I suspect they’d be the first victims if it was overly aggressive.
<Mmm; yes; and I don't want to miss mentioning that you should be very careful not to get "stuck" in the hand by those very sharp, glass-like podial spines exiting from each body section>
In short, I just want to be sure I don’t have a baby bobbit. I do feed pretty diversely everyday between pellets, sinking food, and liquid broadcast of oyster and zooplankton. Maybe that’s why he’s so big?
<Yes to food being a factor. But/though some species are quite small, others grow fast, to feet-size!>
I value all life so if he is beneficial or not overly dangerous I would prefer to just leave him.
<Then do so; until, unless it poses a viable threat to your other desired livestock>
I appreciate your feedback as always, have a happy day.
Dani Conner
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>

Invert ID      6/10/19
Hi,
Can you please help in IDing this invert? Thanks.
<Mmm; an anemone... Appears something like the genus Metridium... have seen/photographed off the US Pacific coast. Bob Fenner>

Re: Invert ID     6/11/19
Thanks Bob. Saw it in the Copenhagen Aquarium
<Ahh; coldwater anemone species. BobF>

Re: Constipated Betta      6/10/19
Hi again,
<Donetta>
I’m not sure what else I can do about my Betta Chester’s constipation. He’s a lone fish in a 10 gal, heated, filtered, planted, bare bottom tank. I feed him only frozen foods now because that’s all he can tolerate.
<... have you considered a modicum of Epsom Salt?>
His constipation started with overfeeding that I’ve since corrected. At this sites suggestion I added and keep 1/4tsp Epsom salt per gallon to the water beginning 4/20/19. I feed literally 2 Brine Shrimp, 2 Mysis Shrimp, 2 bloodworms or Daphnia. For Daphnia I defrost it pour on a napkin. Scrap a small portion up with a spoon and roll it in a tiny ball the size of a pellet. In addition I now add vitamins to his food at your suggestion. I was feeding this once per day. Sometimes he still wouldn’t poop by the next day, I have a bare bottom tank and see everything , so I started feeding him this amount every other day. In addition I bumped up the Epsom salt to .5 tsp per gallon on 5/30 which was 10 days ago.
<Ah, good. I might even try a higher concentration of MgSO4 as a bath... temporary immersion (like a minute). Freshwater fishes, unlike marine, don't drink their environment to a great extent>
Well he pooped yesterday and this morning it was gone. So my conclusion is that he ate it.
<Ahh!>
I know it did not dissolve over time, cause I know what that looks like. Makes me wonder if he’s done this before or is he just so hungry with the small amount of food that he’s been given and it’s the first time.
I don’t know what I should do. I appreciate all the help.
Thanks
Donetta
<I would stay the course you're on for now. Read up re the concentrated salt dip. Bob Fenner>

Yellow-belly aqua terrapin; egg-bound      6/10/19
Hello,
Can you please help me ?
<Have sent your query to our "turtle expert"; but will try to answer you here as well as I can>
I have a problem with my 15 year old terrapin. ..She is gravid, from 7th of May (all evidence seem that this is the date..or around then...) but she is not passing the (infertile) eggs so I took her to the vet at the end of May and he made an Oxytocin injection to her but she didn't pass the eggs after that. I have another appointment tomorrow 10th of June with the vet and he told me he will do another Oxytocin and he hopes she will pass the eggs.
I am very worried because I read that the 2nd Oxytocin must be done after 24 or 48 hours in order to be effective...I hope it is not too late...
<Me too. As you'll find in this piece (https://tortoise.org/general/eggbind.html ) from my local turtle and tortoise society; there are a few causes of egg-binding in turtles... >
She seems she cannot find a nesting place suitable for her..
I have made a plastic storage box with all proper sand and humidity but nothing... I have placed her in a small dog's piscine but nothing..I don't know what else to do..
She has been gravid the 2 previous years also. She had a great difficulty passing the eggs also but she managed to do it, half of them in the water and half of them with the 1st Oxytocin...This year seems to have the biggest problem.
How many Oxytocin injections can be done? More than 2? and what should the period be between them?
<Next to consider is likely surgery>
Also, in the event of a surgery can the vet make an ovariosalingectomy at the same time to prevent future incidents of binding?
<This I do not know; but suspect that this can be done surgically.>
because she is suffering so much from this situation and we are all so stressed!
Thank you very much for an answer....
Maria
<Do read the citation, link above. Bob Fenner>

Re: Coral And Marbled Catsharks        6/9/19
Something I'm curious about, at night time their eyes will become like an actual cats, but during the day they seem very different.
<Well, these sharks, as mentioned in previous e-mails, doesn't like very bright lights, that's the reason they search for shade during the day, and they show contracted pupils but at night their pupils dilate to allow the shark to see in complete darkness and search its prey. Their eyes have a membrane called Tapetum Lucidum that other animals (felines, crocodiles...etc.) also have; this membrane allows reflecting back even very small amounts of light during the night and give the shark a perfect view of its surroundings, the dilated pupils give their eyes a "cat look", hence the name Catsharks. Wil.> 

Re: Trichopodus trichopterus changed eating habits?        6/8/19
I’ll give it a shot. Many thanks!
<Most welcome. Neale.>

Re: Coral And Marbled Catsharks        6/8/19
Okay thank you.
<Welcome>
I need to find an alternative to frozen shrimp, my marmoratus regurgitates it every feeding; Mazuri vitamin or not.
<I usually feed these species and other bottom dwellers with frozen squid tentacles, and they love it. If it refuses, leave it fasting for a few days.>
My macleayi has never regurgitated his food shrimp or squid. The pieces are very tiny I feed him as well, so I doubt size is the problem.
<Me too>
Any ideas on a good alternative?
<Written above>
Thanks again.
<You´re welcome. Kasey. Wil.>
Re: Coral And Marbled Catsharks        6/8/19

Yes I currently feed them squid tentacles on an alternating schedule with
the shrimp. They never fast
<Not voluntarily, you should leave them a few days to a week without food>
and love to eat, but my marmoratus always regurgitates the shrimp. Never any problems with the squid tentacles though.
<Mmm... It may be something else, probably parasitic... Please read the following link and above: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/sharkdiseasefaqs.htm ...Cheers. Wil.>
Re: Coral And Marbled Catsharks        6/8/19

I read the webpage, didn't find anything about regurgitation and parasites, moving on to sharksanddiseases2,
<Keep reading, there’s plenty of info on the subject>
do you have any clue what parasite it might be?
< Hard to tell, the only way is by taking a sample from the shark’s mouth and viewing it under a microscope, you can do a prophylactic (1hr) dip/bath using Praziquantel, in a separate container.>
They act healthy and look healthy and well fed.
<Then you’re probably feeding them too often, I’d cut down feedings to half and see the Marmoratus reaction after a few days.>
Very active at night, as expected. Thanks again.
<Welcome. Wil.>
Re: Coral And Marbled Catsharks        6/8/19

Would you recommend feeding every 4 days then, or half the amount of food every other day?
<Every 4 days. Wil.>
Re: Coral And Marbled Catsharks        6/8/19

Sorry for the extra email, but I also think it's worth noting that after feeding they both get plump bellies, until the next day.
<It is normal, remember wild sharks feed sparingly. Wil.>

Re: Help with my fish telescope please        6/8/19
Dear,
<This appears to be an inclusion of some sort.... does happen. Nothing to do re... not to treat. BobF>
R: There is no remedy that can help eliminate these balls? already has 2 in one eye and 1 in another eye.
<... one last time hopefully: What are your water quality measures? What re the set up here? Filtration in particular, the history of the set up? BobF>
Please your help, I will appreciate it.
Attentative to your comments.
Raúl N.

June Calendar         6/7/19
Hi Bob. Here is a calendar for the WWM website. Looks like you're having a great time on your world travels.
Cheers,
Mike
<Thanks Mike. As always, wishing you were out here with. B>

My clown knife fish         6/7/19
so I recently got a clown knife fish about 5 days ago now on Sunday and since I put him into my quarantine tank I have only seen him once and I have never seen him eat I would like to ask if I should search my quarantine tank for him to check if he is alive and well
<Mmm; well, Notopterids (clown knives) are shy as juveniles and adults...
You do have some decor for it to hide in I take it. Any dither fish to serve as company? Have you searched, read on WWM re the keeping of this fish? Bob Fenner>

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