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Centropyge bispinosa (Gunther 1860), Two-Spined, Dusky or Coral Beauty Angel (2). Usually hardy from everywhere but the Philippines. Found widespread throughout the Indo-Pacific to central Pacific. A juv. Mauritius pic 2016.
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by Robert (Bob) Fenner
PLEASE: Write reviews of my works on Amazon! I desire your useful input. BobF

Green neon tetras for large tank question     5/29/17
Hello,
<Hi Andrew>
I am getting to stock my 120 gallon planted tank. It's been set up for over a year but so far only has shrimp and Otocinclus. The tank is heavily planted with plenty of stems and hairgrass, filtered by 2 Eheim 2217 (cleaned monthly) and receives a weekly water change (30-50%).
<I'd like to use the change water on my house plants>
The main fish will be a school of green neon tetras (Paracheirodon simulans). Tank mates will be 20 Corydoras similis, 4 Otocinclus, 75 Amano shrimp, and probably what will end up being 100 or more tangerine tiger shrimp (after breeding).
<Sounds good>
*How many tetras can I get while still keeping the bioload reasonable?* I'm not concerned with nitrates and phosphates (as it is I have to add some daily for the plants), but rather other dissolved organic compounds. I've
found minimizing these to be essential for planted tank health. I'd love to have a large number to see the social interactions at their best.
<Fifty individuals wouldn't be too many, and would make for a nice school here>
Also I run the tank at 74 degrees - is this too cold for them?
<Mmm; yes; as well as the other life listed... I'd raise this to 77-78 F. for all>
Many fish database sites seem to list a wide temperature range for this species.
<Tis so>
Thanks,
-Andrew
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Green neon tetras for large tank question /Neale      5/29/17

<<No real disagreements with BobF., but would remind you that this species is very Cardinal Tetra-like in requirements; as Bob suggests, middling to warmish conditions preferable to cooler low-end tropical (i.e., the
opposite to true Neon Tetras). Avoid strong currents, but ensure a good oxygen level by under-stocking the tank and providing steady but gentle circulation. Softer water also essential here; not necessarily mineral-free, but lowish, maybe 2-5 degrees dH, certainly no more than 10 degrees dH. Keep the pH between 6 and 7.5 depending on your ability to maintain stable water chemistry. Specifically, if you're using carbon dioxide fertilisation, for example, link this to pH, and perhaps use a commercial Discus buffer to ensure stable conditions. Green Neons (Paracheirodon simulans) have a poor survival rate in busy community tanks, so choose tankmates accordingly. Small foods, fed in frequent but rather small amounts rather than one feed per day probably best. Bob is spot on in
suggesting a big school is best here -- Paracheirodon simulans does not do well in the usual 6-10 specimen schools people often buy. Cheers, Neale.>>
Re: Green neon tetras for large tank question     5/29/17

Thanks for the information and welcome! What an honor to get information from the man himself, Bob Fenner.
<Hee heeee. Just a petfish kind of guy Andrew>
I look forward to interacting more with your site in the future. I only discovered it recently but quickly found
it to be a wealth of knowledge.
<Ahh!>
Wishing the crew a happy Memorial Day holiday,
-Andrew
<And you, BobF>

Shrimp and crab compatibility     5/29/17
Hey guys!
<Carter>
I have a 45 gallon mixed (lps/softies) with about 45 pounds of rock. It currently houses various snails, hermits, a fire shrimp (Lysmata debelius), a blue porcelain crab (Petrolisthes spp) and several fish. Three of those fish are potential "shrimpivores and crabivores"...a redlined wrasse, a carpenters fairy wrasse, and an orchid Dottyback. Is there an appropriate species of shrimp that you would chance adding to the tank, and would it be appropriate to add an emerald crab or two?
<Mmm; well; given plenty of hidey holes (for molting, soft-bodied periods); most any of the larger shrimps would/could go here. I'd have you read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/HighInvertInd.htm
scroll down to the "Shrimp" tray; read at the family level. I'd avoid Stenopids and am not a fan of Mithraculus... as you'll see by reading re them on this same page>
Thanks so much for always being there!
Carter
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

polyps for a tank with no light but some indirect sunlight     5/29/17
Hi gang
<Kirk>
Any suggestions for polyps or mushroom corals for a FOWLR tank with no light? One corner gets about 9-10 hours of indirect sunlight per day. Or is this simply a no-go?
<Mmm; do look about re warnings of using natural insolation... algae, heat... dark days; but some Corallimorpharians, Zoanthids; Clavulariids could go... Just keep your eye on them and MAKE SURE they're fed rather than relying on photosynthesis to keep them alive>
Thx
KAW
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Large white growth on goldfish      5/29/17
Dear WWM Crew,
<Cass>
I was wondering if you could help me.
<We do our best...>
My goldfish has a very large white growth on the right hand side of his body.
<I see this... apparent carcinoma in you pic.>
It has slowly been getting larger over the last month. Recently, some of the lumps seemed to have burst and a white goo like fluid seemed to have come out. Other than this he seems happy, eating and swimming normally. He is very old, being at least 13+ years old, and has lived in the same large fish tank with a filter and lots of plants for these years. I have attached a photo for more information. I hoping you would be able to tell me what this lump is
likely to be and whether there was anything I could do to help him.
Best wishes,
Cassie
<Other than your ongoing good care... steady, beneficial water quality and nutrition... No. Some folks try excising such tumors... But I would not.
Many more anecdotes re these growths here on WWM: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/GFGrowthsF7.htm and the linked FAQs files of the same title linked above. Bob Fenner>

Re: Acclimation Method When Fish In Transit for 80 Hours-     5/27/17
Hello again,
<Hey Trish>
I have increasing concerns about my BF in quarantine-- she is still eating well and seems to have adjusted from the trauma of her 80 hours in transit.
However, the areas of raised scales are developing a faint brownish color.
<Mmm; may be residual... but could be sign of "Vibrio" or related bacteria involvement. VERY common w/ damaged and stressed BFs>
I'm concerned that she may be developing a fungal or bacterial infection.
I've had readings as high as .25 ammonia and ph as low as 7.8 in quarantine prior to water changes, so I'm thinking water quality is a contributing factor.
<Agreed>
I am on day 11 of quarantine and two weeks since shipment and she has no other signs of illness.
At this point would it be better to place in the display or to try to treat in quarantine?
<I would very likely move this fish to the main/display system>
I have two cleaner gobies in the display tank, which may help the BF recover, but I don't want to risk their health either.
Many thanks,
Tricia
<Commensurate welcomes. Bob Fenner>

Wrong id: Shrimp Goby POTD; and Alpheid comp. q.      5/27/17
Hi guys,
<Dr. Andrei>
Was browsing WWM for some answers.
Noted on http://www.wetwebmedia.com/SWPOTD722.htm
The first photograph tagged "Amblyeleotris latifasciata, the Red-banded Shrimp-Goby. Western central Pacific in distribution. To a little over three and a half inches in length. Occasionally imported as an aquarium species. Bali 2014" shows an Amblyeleotris diagonalis pair with a single Alpheus bellulus. No A. latifasciata in there.
<Ah, thank you for this correction>
Now to jump to the my pain:
I have formed the forth Amblyeleotris latifasciata pair and managed to form a Alpheus bellulus to go on the same team.
They've went through a six weeks quarantine with an Alpheus bellulus shrimp, then moved in my RSM130.
All was well for a week. This video is from yesterday https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ooPVVypqxXY and as you can see they were a happy quartet.
This morning, one of the shrimps was displaying erratic behavior (leaving the nest type), going around the edges and swimming into the open, ignoring any goby protection offer. An hour later, he was fully fitted inside one's goby mouth. The other goby was picking pieces, so finally the shrimp was successfully swallowed.
Now it's job as always, with a pair of Amblyeleotris latifasciata and only one pistol shrimp.
<Mmm; I'd stick with this arrangement, having just the one Alpheid>
The tank is a RSM130, is six months and two weeks old, livestock is - pair Amblyeleotris latifasciata with (now) one Alpheus bellulus, 1x Ecsenius stigmatura, 1x Ecsenius pictus, 1x Lysmata amboinensis, 4-5x Paguristes cadenati, 2x Cypraea tigris, 5x Monetaria annulus, 6x Turbo fluctuosa, 20+ Nassarius vibex (20 adults and now countless babies), 3x Nerite sp, some Stomatella.
Last water parameters (from yesterday):
- temp 27.5°C (termometru JBL)
- pH >8.0 <8.3 (Salifert)
- Alk 9.3 dKH / 3.30 mEq/L (Salifert)
- NO3 25 mg/L (Salifert)
- Ca 380-390 mg/L (Salifert)
- Mg 1200-1230 mg/L (Salifert)
- SG 1024.6 (Hidrometru Tropic Marin)
- PO4 - no clue, I run some Rowaphos in a sock though and have no algae growth on the glass anymore
The tank journal link is http://www.acvariu.ro/forum/posts/list/80/36966.page , unfortunately the forum is in Romanian, also littered with NSFW photos (my forum members appreciate everything natural and beautiful, not restricted to fish) - :blush:.
I do not know what to make out of this, but my previous pair of A. latifasciata consumed both their shrimps at the same time within a week of being moved in the same RSM130 tank from a smaller tank where they've lived peacefully for a lengthy (+ two years) amount of time (see here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CNJ1z6DDuk8 ). Needless to say, I've lost that pair sometime after the incident (upon return from a ten day holiday in January 2017, the girl stopped thriving, became emaciated and wasted away, the male followed a week later - stopped eating upon the death of his partner). Video prior to introduction https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G8gSh6hCBIQ with very excited gobies and soon after introduction in the tank https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lpblO17FYfU
My theory around these killings is that the Amblyeleotris latifasciata as a species is developing more marked attachments then other Amblyeleotris species and upon being left they become jealous. I feel these fishes suffer when I'm not taking some time near the tank as they are always attention seekers and this goes beyond begging for food (if I just throw the food and neglect them they keep flashing). Also, they cannot stand being left by their shrimps as it sometimes happens and upon no other alternative, proceed on consuming them. I must also mention that they do not hide when I introduce my hand in the tank and that all the transfers (from the LFS bag to tank and from tank to tank) have been made by hand.
Please feel free to import and use the photos and videos from my YouTube channel and from my tank journal at your own will.
Kind regards,
Andrei
<I'd offer a bit more meaty food/s more frequently... pipetted directly to their area; and hope for the best here. Bob Fenner>
Re: Wrong id     5/27/17

Hi Bob,
<Dr. A.>
Thank you for the quick answer.
<Certainly welcome>
I'm aware there is no clear cut answer, just wanted to leave a trace of this unusual behavior.
<Ahh; good>
I'm currently feeding them (and my other four nano tanks) a mixture of frozen food (Gamma Marine Quintet: Mysis, brine shrimp, krill, seaweed, razor clam) at each meal with some occasional dry food snacks to calm down the begging. They are not slim by any standards.
<I see>
I'll come back if there is any progress or progression on this.
<Thank you>
Kind regards,
Andrei
<And you, BobF>

Re: African dwarf frog help please     5/27/17
Thank you so much for your fast response! It's reassuring to know they can be inactive after Amplexus, and that I've got someone knowledgeable to give advice. I'll wait and see and hope she gets better soon. The male grabbed
the other female right as I am writing this, but he let go quickly. I'd love to have some tadpoles, but not at the risk of my females lives.
<Understood. Adding fluffy plants (whether real or fake) such as Java Moss can go a long way towards creating safe spaces for eggs and tadpoles.
Surprisingly, people do sometimes find a few survive long enough to be removed (for example with a turkey baster) into a floating breeding trap, and raised in there. Breeding dwarf African frogs is done, and many reports are online for your perusal.>
Thanks again!
<Welcome. Neale.>
Re: African dwarf frog help please     5/27/17

Thank you so much for your fast response! It's reassuring to know they can be inactive after Amplexus, and that I've got someone knowledgeable to give advice. I'll wait and see and hope she gets better soon. The male grabbed
the other female right as I am writing this, but he let go quickly. I'd love to have some tadpoles, but not at the risk of my females lives.
<Understood. Adding fluffy plants (whether real or fake) such as Java Moss can go a long way towards creating safe spaces for eggs and tadpoles.
Surprisingly, people do sometimes find a few survive long enough to be removed (for example with a turkey baster) into a floating breeding trap, and raised in there. Breeding dwarf African frogs is done, and many reports are online for your perusal.>
Thanks again!
<Welcome. Neale.>

Re: Seeking ACF Medical Advice        5/26/17
Hello, the ammonia problems have been sorted and all frog behavior has been normal for the last few weeks.
<Good.>
Unfortunately, today I noticed that the female has one bloated leg.
Behavior and appetite are normal and neither of the other two frogs show any abnormalities. Do you have any suggestions?
<I would check water quality again, do a substantial water change, and see if anything improved within a day or two. Epsom salt, at 1-3 teaspoons per 5 gallons/20 litres, can help with swelling. If no better after a few days, then try antibiotics again.>
Images: http://imgur.com/a/RCU9I
<Goofy looking animals, aren't they? Nice clean tank though.>
Thank you,
--AR
<Welcome and good luck! Neale.>

African dwarf frog help please        5/26/17
Hello,
<Hello!>
I've spent quite a few hours reading over your information and questions regarding African dwarf frogs, but nothing seems to be quite the answer I needed. I have three ADFs living in a 5.5 gallon aquarium with one Betta.
It is filtered and heated to 80 degrees.
<Sounds good.>
Recently I caught my male "hugging" one of my females about 36 hour s ago.
<Amplexus.>
He held on for about 3 hours, and she laid 4 eggs (which were apparently not fertilized).
<Quite possibly.>
Ever since then, she has not eaten, and has a bump on her back, which is right above her tailbone, and is pointy in shape rather then round and soft.
<The bump may well be a result of Amplexus. Post-mating, female frogs can/do become relatively inactive.>
Until this morning her vulva appeared very swollen. For several hour after he let her go she would go upside down at the surface and hip thrust at the air, like she did when he was attached, but that behavior has stopped. The other two frogs and Betta seem to be doing fine, with ph at 7.6, no ammonia or nitrites. I feed a variety of frozen thawed bloodworms, Mysis, and brine shrimp, and I've no doubt they occasionally steal some Betta pellets.
She is also hanging around the heater at the top of the aquarium much more then usual. I'm very worried about her. Since the issues I've done 3 50% water changes, and I use Prime each time. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
<This is one of those times where "wait and see" is the best advice, in the short term anyways. Separating the female, for example in a floating breeding trap, isn't a bad idea, but keep the trap not-too-close to the heater or light otherwise there's a risk she'll overheat and suffocate. If she isn't perking up within the next day or two, write back and we'll think some more. Cheers, Neale.>

Cnidarian id        5/26/17
Hi, Guys! A friend of mine, who's an avid reefer and has been skin diving for the past 20+yrs, has discovered this rare Cnidarian. It's his first time encountering this beautiful creature. We think it's an anemone as the physiology greatly resembles one. The bottom is glued to the rock like an anemone, not like a soft coral. He collected this off Negros Island in the Visayas, Philippines, and it's the only one in the entire area where he dived 2 days ago.
<Ahh>
It's photosensitive as it moved the black ruffle like tentacles when shone with a flashlight. It has what look like sweeping stinger tentacles buried underneath the black ruffles. The guy who discovered it, gently poked it with his chipping hammer to see if it reacted violently, but nothing happened, so he touched it with his finger and it didn't sting. What do you guys think it is?
<Does look to be an Actinodendron sp.; have seen a few such possibilities recently. Often called "Hell fire" anemones> Examples of larger ones here on WWM: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anempt2.htm >
It would be awesome if it's a never before seen species. Hehe.
Hoping for an id,
Paul
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>


Callamanus worms!        5/26/17
Hello crew! Hope you are doing alright.
<Thank you Robert; yes>
Direct to the point, I've wrote a few times these past months due to many unexpected and sudden deaths/ wasting, and I think I've finally found the culprit. The pic is of an Iranian red rainbow that suddenly waited in less than a week, and only when I found its corpse today could I conduct a proper examination of it. Many times before the corpse would be half eaten when I found it. But now I'm pretty sure that my planted tank is suffering of Callamanus worms right?
<I agree; appears to be to me as well>
I'm planning on medicating with Fenbendazole, although I would appreciate if you could give me other possible effective treatments. I also cant find a correct dose to medicate the tank. ( should I dissolve it? Get the fish to eat it?)
<Again; yes; and do please read here Re: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/nematodesfwf.htm>
as of right now all fish are eating and have a colorful appearance so I'm in time to save them all. It is a 150 gal tank heavily planted with dirt substrate. A collection of tetras, rainbows, fancy Plecos, Kuhli loaches, rasboras, and dwarf cichlids inhabit the tank. There is also a 6 inch vampire shrimp which I really would like to protect from medication. I hope you can help me crew.
<Read on! Bob Fenner>

Re: Difficult Keepers in New System       3/25/17
Wish I could go to MACNA but that's one of our biggest weekends of the year at work.
<Ahh!>
Would be fun road trip from Savannah. Maybe someone will be kind enough to record some of the presentations.
<This is done at least some years... are they available through MASNA? Oh yeah... here's a link to the 2016 ones... including mine:
http://masna.org/aboutmacna/macna-2016-presentations/>
After water change this morning water values have improved. Nitrates are closer to 10ppm (may have overestimated color a little yesterday at 20ppm).
Ammo/nitrite holding at 0ppm and pH remains low at around 7.8. Tested my mix water and it's at 8.2 so the drop is definitely organics in the tank.
After your email and more reading last night I ordered Chemi-Pure Blue, Phosgard, and Seachem's pH buffer and that should be here tomorrow. Red tree sponge had some film on it this AM--I removed the film gently (air
hose suction) and turned the sponge a little since I haven't seen it opening up (orange one is covered in pores/openings). I see a few pores now and no new debris. Little orange ones are completely inert so far.
We are aligned re: wishing this tank could be plumbed to a larger system.
It does rather feel like a refugium looking for a display tank at this point. Unfortunately we're in a third floor apartment so we're limited both by space and weight restrictions.
<Another ahh!>
On that note, I ordered a couple of live colonies of copepods and phytoplankton along with some Chaeto. Figure little critters will help with incidental feedings at earlier life stages and Chaeto will help house the pods as well as export excess nutrients. I don't think this system will have much to eat them directly at this point so hopefully they'll
establish.
Happy reefing!
Laura
<And you. BobF>

Re: fresh water tank       3/25/17
Thank you!
<Welcome. Have seen/experienced such "light-white" glass (and acrylic) coatings at times... as the system "matures", other organism groups supplant... Bob Fenner>

Acrylic Viewing Pane       3/25/17
Hi all,
<John>
I am hoping to have built a 2.8 metre by 2.8 metre by 1.5 metre high cement panel aquarium. The viewing window will be about 2.8 metres long by 1.5 metres high. Viewing window supported around all 4 sides by cement paneling
with rebate. Can you help with an estimate of the thickness of acrylic window.
yours
John
<Yes; depending on the quality of the acrylic sheet available and your adverseness to risk and bowing, 60-70 mm... Here's a handy calculator: http://diyfishkeepers.com/AcrylicThicknessCalculator.htm
John Wilkins
Rural GP
Cygnet Tasmania
<Bob Fenner, San Diego, CA>


Top view

Front view

Angel and feather duster advice; comp.         5/23/17
<Good afternoon Mike.>
Hi, I have an established saltwater tank containing two Clown fish, one green Chromis, one Coral Beauty, one yellow watchman goby, and four hermit crabs. I wanted to surprise my boyfriend with some Hawaiian feather dusters but was curious whether or not the Coral beauty would bully/eat it. I inquired with the fish store employee and was informed that they should be compatible and went ahead and bought 4. I placed them in the tank and
almost immediately their crowns blossomed. And then the Beauty began nipping at all of them! She hasn't nipped at the crowns yet but she knocked one of the dusters out of its place where I had it secured.
<Not very secured, I have to point out...try wedging it into something so as to prevent its being moved without deliberate human intent.>
After replacing it she nipped at it again. I'm worried she's either going to eat it or stress it to death. Any suggestions? I adore the feather dusters and really don't want to part with them. Will she eventually leave them alone or will I have to remove either her or the dusters?
<You could wait a few days and maybe the fish will become bored with them and move on to bigger and better things. Sometimes they just "sample" things to see if they are palatable and then ignore them. However as you
mentioned, that may be enough to damage them or stress them to death if it keeps up. Personally I would try to quarantine 3 of them or otherwise sequester/remove them and see how it goes with the remaining one. The
trouble and the charm of angelfishes is their unique personalities and intelligence (as fishes go). This means that one of them may be fine with a given tankmate while another of the same size and species will not leave them alone. At any rate it's a gamble for sure and only time will tell. Personally, I'd do as above and test one out for a few days of careful observation. Be prepared to move the dusters as soon as necessary, however and have a plan as to where they'll go if things go poorly. Aquarium club member, a quarantine tank, a second tank in your home, retailer, etc., whoever will give them refuge. Hope this helps. Alternately have a plan to get the angel out of there (takes more planning than one might assume because they are adept at dodging nets.> -Earl>

Difficult Keepers in New System        5/23/17
Good afternoon, team!
<Laura>
Have been researching ad nauseum and will try to cover all the bases--sorry for length. Have a new 24g Nano Cube set up (2-36w CF bulbs, 290gph pump, 160gph powerhead, bio balls and ceramic rings, some activated carbon in overflow, no skimmer). I cycled it with 40 lb. of bagged live sand, 10 lb. of (not so) live rock from LFS, and a cocktail shrimp. Added a neon Dottyback (captive bred, and I know he may end up being only fish in this volume).
I ordered an additional 20 lb. of aquacultured live rock and 10 lb. of live sand from a vendor in FL. Picked it up Sat on vacation and had everything in my tank Sun afternoon (less than 30 hours in transit, rock and all submerged--quality and quantity of life is amazing). I received a clean up crew package with the rock as well as (you know what's coming) some freebies, including some sponges and a flame scallop.
<Yikes....>

Am attaching pictures-- apologies for size. Sponges were shipped with no air in bags and came with instruction not to expose to air (did my best, but probably ended up with the very tops of the larger ones out of water
briefly just due to size of sponges/bags/ aquarium). Feet of larger two appear to be intact and smaller ones have substrate. Scallop appears to be in great condition and has been moving around.
I've had a small cycle since introducing rock (as expected). The pH has been low since I started the tank (around 7.8) but I haven't messed with it since I thought it would stabilize with the addition of the new rock and I didn't plan on delicate inverts for a good while (haven't started testing Alk/cal/phos yet for same reason).
<Do keep your eye on the/this pH... the new LR is likely lowering still... Needs to be buffered, either through water changes with higher Alkalinity, or small water changes with buffering upward added in excess>
Salt mix is Reef Crystals and I run my water for at least 24 hours with a powerhead circulating. Adding the new rock has triggered a small cycle as expected--ammonia went up to .25ppm yesterday (completed 15% water change) then fell back to 0 and now nitrite is up to .25ppm. Nitrate is maybe 20ppm. Will do another water change in the AM.
<Good>
So have read extensively about long-term survivability of these filter feeding critters (quite poor) and your general view on their removal from the wild (tend to agree and would not have intentionally purchased) but they are in my tank now for better or worse and I'd like to really make an effort unless you think the sponges are just in too poor condition.
<Hope springs eternal... I'd try to keep all>
I think I have enough water movement (have been also trying to keep them clear of debris), but I know my tank is too young to support these critters just from my sand bed. I ordered some Coral Frenzy and will follow WWM
instruction on blending product and spot feeding,
<Yes; a "soup" of same, blended small crustaceans... a bit of high quality dry food added... pipetted in/around these filter feeders a few times daily... likely with pumps temporarily off... AND lots of water changes...
maybe even daily. Use Nitrate conc. as a measure of how much... NO more than 20 ppm>
but will my critters even accept prepared foods?
<To some extent, yes... may have to feed during lights out...>
I'm eyeing some cultures of live phytoplankton by Algagen but want to be cautious about polluting my small, new system.
<This IS going to happen assuredly. You will have algae, very small plankton/cloudy issues>
Is that my best bet and just increase water changes to compensate?
<Yes>
So basically can the sponges and scallop be saved with the resources I have available, or some that I can acquire quickly?
<Possibly>
I kind of like the idea of running a nutrient-rich system with lots of life but don't want to beat my head against a brick wall either.
<Oh yes; I DO understand. And really wish we lived nearer each other... I'd like to visit, kibbutz re>
Thank you all so much for all you do. Have utilized WWM extensively in planning this system (including all the nano eBook downloads) and will continue to support the effort.
Full stock list if helpful:
Neon Dottyback (captive-bred), Stippled clingfish (came with rock package--am hoping Dottyback doesn't harass/dismember), Peppermint shrimp (see above re: Dottyback), Flame scallop. Decorator crab, Larger brittle
star, Tiger tail sea cucumber (am keeping an eye on this guy). Maybe a dozen assorted snails, Nassarius, Turbo~12 blue leg hermits~12 white hermits
<I'd cut the hermits back, way back... to maybe four total. Are not totally scavengers>
Laura
<Bob Fenner>

Re: Difficult Keepers in New System        5/24/17
So you're saying there's a chance! Good enough for me. :-)
Game plan:
1) Continue frequent small water changes while system stabilizes (was plan of course anyway given other life in tank). Am hoping as DSB (4"+) matures over next weeks/months frequency can decrease but until then as needed.
It's painless in this size system. 2) Buffer pH up. Haven't needed to do this in previous tanks--off to research methods/products (my favorite pastime right now--the boyfriend is unamused).
<See WWM re Alkalinity and look into my fave line... SeaChem Products, here>
3) Make a slurry of food stuff--Coral Frenzy, pellets, maybe some Mysis,
Reef One, cocktail shrimp... Blend (then soak blender in vinegar, blecchhh). Pipette upstream of relevant critters AM/PM. Wonder how mixture will keep in the fridge?
<Yes it will for a few days (3-5)>
May experiment/use a sniff test before adding.
I'm not overly sensitive about a little algae and grunge here and there if it means the critters are happy. Am not someone who will ever have a bare bottom tank with frags on plastic racks--I like more "stuff." I also like
kibbitzing--let me know if you ever do a conference or anything out this way.
<Oh... where? Aurora... in Riverside, CA? My only for sure scheduled pitches/presentations are MACNA (New Orleans) and Aquatic Experience (Chicago) thus far this year>
Oh, hermits are teeny tiny now, maybe 5mm. Will watch and reduce numbers as needed. All of the white ones came in my sand.
I'll let you know how we're doing in a few weeks/a month. I know this is a fun project because it'll probably be 2018 before I could call it a "success" with potential for failure sooner. But I like projects. :-)
Have a fantastic evening!
Laura
<Thank you Laura... Had a dream or two re your set up, livestock last eve... Do want to state more: Would be GREAT if this little cube tank was tied in w/ another bigger system; and/or a large sump/refugium... w/
another DSB, RDP lighting arrangement, macro algae culture... and more.
Would make all that much more stable, easier to keep clean. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

fresh water tank. Coating on inside glass panels        5/24/17
Hi, I have a 30 gallon tank. Two fancy tail guppies. Change filter every 30 days. My water is crystal clear but tank sides all the way around have a cloudy residue. I can wipe off with finger but is hard to remove with a
towel. Do I need to drain and re do whole tank?
<Mmm; maybe... being both lazy and adventurous myself, I'd first try a "razor blade" type aquarium scraper, or a single edged razor blade itself>
My fish are happy and healthy. Close to bearing young. My filter is running on high. I have a bright light on during the day and soft light at night. Help. Karen
<I suspect the material here is biological in nature... rather than a simple/r chemical "scale" type problem... as your fishes are healthy as you state. Bob Fenner>

Re: Super soft water      5/23/17
Just got my TDS meter today. 315TDS after adding the rift mix to my well water (60ish TDS).
All my tanks were well over 1000 TDS so I immediately did 50% WC and will continue that daily until the number is closer to the pre tank water.
<Good>
My question is how high TDS is too high knowing now what the TDS of the clean water is?
<Mmm; depends on what the "total dissolved solids" are made up of; and what livestock you are keeping, and to some extent, what you're trying to do with it... For a general mix of aquatic life, a few hundred ppm TDS is
'about right'... 60 ppm is too small for most all other than wild-collected organisms from very soft water (much of the Amazon e.g.)... 1000 ppm and thereabouts in Lake Malawi, Tanganyika type water...>
Thanks!
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Re: Super soft water /Neale       5/23/17
Just got my TDS meter today. 315TDS after adding the rift mix to my well water (60ish TDS).
All my tanks were well over 1000 TDS so I immediately did 50% WC and will continue that daily until the number is closer to the pre tank water. My question is how high TDS is too high knowing now what the TDS of the clean water is?
Thanks!
<The exact upper limit will vary with the species. Livebearers and Central American cichlids for example would enjoy much more hardness than, say, Neon Tetras and Angels. I'm not familiar with the "TDS" scale as you quote it. Normally, hardness is described in mg/l or parts-per-thousand/parts-per-million. Anything that approximates to "medium hardness" should be about right for the average mix of community species.
Cheers, Neale.>

Marine Ick Questions      5/23/17
Good Evening,
Got a quick Ick question?
<You do?>
Typically once Ick, white spot, shows on a fish how long does it typically stay visible until it drops off?
<Depending on temperature mainly, 3-4 days; can be longer... up to 9 days>
I have a Firefish that for the last 3 days has had a single spot on each fin.
<Mmm; only two spots... not likely Crypt>
Each spot only stays on the fin for less than a day before disappearing. I am trying to determine if it's sand stuck to the fish since it does have it's cave in the sand bed or something else.
<Again; this is not likely Ich>
Right before this started I added a couple glass cardinals, a dispar Anthias, and a flasher wrasse. The fish were quarantined but even with timing it would be impossible for it to have come from one of those fish because of the Ick lifecycle. If it's Ick I guess it was already in my display and the addition of the new fish stressed out the Firefish. I am contemplating feeding dr. G's antiparastic formula as a prophylactic or just leaving as is. Problem is there is no way I can get the fish out to treat if it was Ick so I am in a little predicament.
Thanks,
Eric
<I'd just do your best to keep the system stable and optimized at this point. When you have time, peruse WWM for the many files on Cryptocaryon, parasitized systems... Bob Fenner>
Re: Marine Ick Questions

Thanks!
<Welcome Eric. BobF>

"Found" turtle; not eating, wheezing?      5/23/17
hi I found at turtle on the side of the road and it was not moving scared that it was going to be hit I took it home where I found out that it was a midland painted turtle but now it isn't eating and it is making a weird grunt noise what does this mean.
<The best thing to do with wild reptiles is to leave them where they are.
This has to be close to a safe, turtle-friendly body of water already inhabit by the species in question. Just dumping a turtle in "the woods" or a backyard isn't acceptable because there's no knowing if the turtle will
find the food and shelter it needs. Your local herpetology club or natural history society may be able to help here. The next best option is to contact your local animal rescue charity or agency. Wild animals can be acclimated to captive life, but there may be legal issues here (many reptiles are protected at city, state or national level) and on top of that wild animals can come with parasites and other issues that need to be taken into account. If you want to keep this animal as a pet, then please write back and we'll offer up some help. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Algae stuck on fish      5/22/17
Ok, thank you very much.
<Certainly welcome. Have seen such algae on Helostoma spp. quite a few times. Again, not problematical. BobF>

Re: Blue line triggerfish      5/22/17
Thank you for the rapid response. I currently have a 150g with a 30g sump with large skimmer.
<Ahh; a Blueline would eventually (a few to several years) get too big here>
There is 120+ lbs of live rock stacked as to provide numerous large caves and hiding places. I am considering possibly moving up to a 210g if I go ahead with the blue line in the future. Would the 150 suffice or plan on
the 210?
<Like your hard drive, bank accounts, Harley engine displacement... "the bigger the better">

Again thank you and It's nice to have a reliable reference not only in your website but in your responses. Most of the local fish stores typically sell products, not cures (if you get my meaning). And ironically NONE of my
local fish stores have even heard of WWM.
<Some I've visited have computers on site; and make WWM available to customers for input. Cheers Bri. BobF> 


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Marine Aquarium Articles and FAQs Master Index

  • Set-Up 1: Types of Systems:, Gear/Components:, Set-Up, Tanks, Stands, Covers:, Water, Seawater, Substrates, DSBs, Electricity, Heating/Chilling, Aquascaping, Biotopes, Travelogues.
  • Set-Up 2: Filtration of All Sorts, Skimmers, Sumps, Refugiums, Plumbing, Circulation, Pumps, Powerheads, Aeration & Light/Lighting:.
  • About Livestock: Regional Accounts:, Collection, Selection:, Stocking:, Disease Prevention: Dips/Baths, Acclimation, Quarantine, Behavior:, Territoriality:, Reproduction:
  • Non-Vertebrate Sea Life Identification, & Microbes, Algae, Plants, Live Rock & Sand, Sponges: Hitchhikers, IDs, Marine Microbes, Plankton, Live Rock & Sand, Marine Algae, Marine Plants, Sponges, phylum Porifera,
  • Cnidarians I. Corals to Hobbyists, Stinging-Celled Animals 1: Cnidarians Overall; Hydrozoans: Jellies, Hydroids, Anthozoans; Octocorals: Organ Pipe, Blue Coral, Star Polyps, Sea Fans, Sea Pens and Soft Corals
  • Cnidarians II. Corals to Hobbyists, Stinging-Celled Animals 2: Anthozoans; Hexacorals: Mushrooms, Zoanthids, Anemones, Stony Corals, Tube Anemones, Black Corals
  • Higher Invertebrate Life: Bryozoans, Worms of all kinds, Mollusks (Snails, Nudibranchs, Octopodes), Crustaceans (Crabs, Shrimp, Lobsters...), Echinoderms (Urchins, Sea Cucumbers, Seastars, Brittlestars...), Sea Squirts,
  • Fishes, Index 1: Sharks, Rays, Skates; Marine Eels; Marine Catfishes; Squirrelfishes, Soldierfishes, Lionfishes, Stonefishes, Gurnards, Sculpins; Anglerfishes, Seahorses & Pipefishes, Blennioid & Gobioid Fishes, Mandarins, Clingfishes, Wrasses and Parrotfishes,
  • Fishes, Index 2: Butterflyfishes, Cardinalfishes, Grammas, Grunts, Sweetlips, Snappers, Goatfishes, Jawfishes, Big-Eyes, Basses, Anthias, Dottybacks, Roundheads, Soapfishes, Damselfishes, Clownfishes, Monos, Hawkfishes, Croakers, Emperors, Threadfins, Sandperches, Miscellaneous Percoids,
  • Fishes Plus, Index 3: Marine Angelfishes, Tangs/Surgeons/Doctorfishes, Scats, Batfishes, Rabbitfishes; Triggers, Files, Puffers, Flounders, Halibuts, Soles, Really Old Fishes, Marine Reptiles, Marine Mammals,
  • Maintenance/Operation: General Maintenance, Vacations, Moving, Water Quality: Tests/Testing, Aquarium Repairs, Biominerals, Supplementation, Marine Scavengers, Algae ID & Control, Foods/Feeding/Nutrition,
  • Diseases: Identification, Avoidance, Causes, Organisms, Treatments & Pests: Acclimation, Quarantine, Dips/Baths; Disease: Prevention, Identification, Treatment, Pests/Control, Aquariums and Human Health, Chemicals of Use/Dis- and Mis-use, Pest Flatworm/Anemones/Worms... & Their Control,
  • Marine Topics: Media Reviews:, Books:, References, Sources, Writing, Diving, Travel Adventure, Photography, Videography, Sources of Mortality on the Worlds Reefs, Schooling, Public Aquariums,

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