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FAQs on Chemically/Physically Injecting Aiptasia
Anemones 2 Related FAQs:
Chemical Injection
1,
Aiptasia/Glass
Anemones in General,
Aiptasia
Identification, Eradication by:
Berghia Nudibranchs,
Peppermint
Shrimp,
Butterflyfishes,
Filefishes,
Hypo/Hyper-Salinity.
Related Articles:
Aiptasia/Glass Anemones,
Impressions of Methods to Eliminate Pest Anemones by Steven Pro,
Aquarium Culture of the Aeolid nudibranch Berghia, Predator on
the nuisance anemone Aiptasia By Anthony Calfo,
Anemones,
Cnidarians
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NaOH, Lemon Juice, Commercial Chemical Prep.s...
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Foxface Nipped-Fin Question And More –
06/23/08
Hi there,
<<Hello>>
I noticed today that my Foxface is missing the tip of his right fin. I looks a
little white at the end like a finger nail that was burned by a match (oops
busted ex smoker). I haven't introduced anything into my tank in months except
for a tuxedo urchin about 2 months ago. Prior to that a large toadstool leather
that was attached to a rock 4-5 mo.s ago. I have a small snowflake eel that gets
a little excited at dinner and sometimes bites at the Foxface (he's only about 7
inches long).
<<Ah…and likely the reason for the missing fin tip on the Foxface>>
I haven't seen that he has actually gotten him.
<<The physical evidence would suggest otherwise>>
He leaves the other fish alone including a scooter blenny that sticks with him
and eats along side of him.
<<The nipped fin was not likely an “overt” action by the eel but more a case of
“mistaken identity” and excitement during feeding time>>
I looked at all the pictures of diseases and none seems to be what I'm seeing.
<<With good care/water quality the tip of the fin should grow back fine on its
own…assuming no more “nipping” from the eel>>
Thanks,
Stacy
<<Happy to assist. Eric Russell>>
P.S. I have also read lots of the tiny starfish posts. I notice that the little
buggers in my tank are overly interested in my frogspawn. The end of the frog
spawn stalk broke off so I have it sitting in a plastic tube; they try to climb
up it all the time.
<<Most of these small stars are harmless in my experience. Unless you see them
actually doing “harm” to the coral I would not be concerned>>
Aside from that I rarely see them. I did see one on the shell of a large snail
that died, not sure if they got in the snail and killed it.
<<It is more likely they were just “cleaning up”>>
I pluck them out. I love my frogspawn and don't trust them!!
<<Is up to you>>
P.S.S.
One more thing, sorry.
<<No worries>>
I have an Aiptasia and some hair-like worm thing that lives in what looks like a
sand tube that just showed up on a rock I've had for almost 2 yrs??
<<This is not unusual…though likely they have been there for some time, maybe
just out of site. The worm is of no concern (a Terebellid Polychaete), is even
beneficial…but I would dispose of the Aiptasia before they spread>>
First of either I have had in my tank. Do they move?
<<Yes>>
Was it dormant in the rock?
<<A possibility>>
I got a syringe today and hope to kill it tomorrow.
<<I tried Red Sea’s Aiptasia-x recently…best commercial product for eradicating
Aiptasia I’ve seen to date>>
Is the tiny hair thing bad?
<<Nope>>
It seems to go in and out like a little snake.
<<Is a beneficial detritivore…not to worry. EricR>>
Aiptasia inside Tridacna Crocea clam
shell (cannot scrape it!) 6/13/08
Hello crew,
<Betsy>
I just purchased a ~5 inch crocea clam from another person who was
breaking down a tank. During acclimation I noticed an aiptasia, but it
is not 'on' the shell of the clam, it is between the layers of the shell
right under the mantle, I declare it to be unscrape-able. I tried to use
one point of a tweezers (which barely fit into the hole) to "squish" the
aiptasia (which withdrew completely into the crack, you can see in the
bottom center of the photo). I was a little timid though, very afraid of
hurting the clam. From what I have read about Aiptasia, I imagine that I
did not successfully kill it. I read on your site FAQs that Aiptasia can
annoy the mantle of the clam (and boy, is it ever close to the mantle!).
I also read that injecting anything that close to the clam might not be
such a great idea.
<Actually, I'd either ignore this pest... or look into a really neat new
product by Red Sea... I saw this in action a few weeks ago at the
Interzoo industry show in Germany... an injectable that appears to be
"tasty" and non-toxic... that one can squirt into such pests... they eat
it... and dissolve>
So, any ideas on how to rid myself of this pest without injuring the
clam?
Also since I'm writing, I plan to let the clam attach to a piece of
ceramic tile so I can place it on the sand bed. (I understand that
crocea's prefer to be on a hard substrate). Is a tile a good idea?
<Mmm, yes>
The clam was living on the sand in the other person's tank, from what I
understand. My lighting is very good ( 6 overdriven T5 bulbs on Icecap
660 ballasts - producing a PAR of about 350 on my sand bed). I would
like to keep it on the sand bed rather than in my rocks so that I get
the best viewing angle on it's mantle.
<A very good point>
Thanks very much,
Betsy
<Welcome. Bob Fenner> |
|
 |
Thank you so much! and
Aiptasia Removal 03/06/2008
Hi,
<<G'Morning, Andrew today>>
I am so sorry to take this direct route and not research more so please forgive
me.
<<tut tut>>
I have a reef/salt water fish tank which I love so much!! I have had it for 4
years. I now have an invasion of Aiptasia. UGH!!! I tried peppermint shrimp but
they got eaten. I want to try the lemon juice injection(?) Here is my
question.... What is the best way to go about this? Do I inject tons of them at
once or just a couple a day? Do I do a big water change after? Does this hurt my
fish or my good corals?
<<There are various methods used to rid a tank of Aiptasia. Inject a could at a
time using the Joe's juice method. Most, on this route, use a hypodermic needle
and inject the lemon juice into the nem. Another alternative is to fill a
syringe up with boiling water and blast the nem directly and not have to worry
about adding too much juice to the tank. Read more here
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/aiptasia/aiptasia.htm
>>
I have a 55 gallon tank. My corals are torch, button polyps, brain, plate, sun
polyps, mushrooms, toadstool, leather, frogs spawn, and candy! My fish are tang,
wrasse, mandarin, damsel, fairy Basslet, blenny, chromis, and clown.
<<I would suggest a bigger home for the tang, they fair better in larger
aquariums more suited to their swimming needs>>
Thank you so very much for taking the time to respond to me. My son is coming
home this weekend and he is in his first year of college studying marine biology
and I am feeling embarrassed about my mess in the tank!! Veronica Smead
<<No need to feel embarrassed, your amongst friends here. Hope the above helps.
A Nixon>>
Tree Coral Health; Nephtheid
"juiced" along with Glass Anemones 7/31/07
Dear Crew,
<Andy>
I have a question about my small tree coral. It was sold to me as a "tree
coral", so I'm not exactly sure what it is--I have searched for images of
similar corals, and I'm pretty sure that it of the genus Capnella. "It" is
actually two corals--two individual 3" trunks attached to one piece of base
rock--and have a pink fleshy look, with darker pink polyps.
<This genus does occur in a wide range of light colors/hues>
I have had them in my tank for over a month and they have been doing very well.
Fully extended during daylight, shrunk up a bit at night. Last week, I killed
off small four Aiptasia that were within about 10" of the coral with Joes Juice.
Although I was very careful with my targeted injection, a small amount of Joes
Juice did become free-floating due to the pressure of submersion. Ever since
that date, my tree coal has been completely retracted---I can send a picture if
you need one, but basically they are just two tightly-packed "lumps".
<No pix needed>
They have been in this state for about 5 days now. They are producing no mucous,
and they are not changing color or otherwise showing signs of disintegration. At
the time of application of Joes Juice, they were perched on a ledge of
rock--maybe slightly shaded, but not much--at about the 1/2 way point of my
tank. About 3 days ago, while they were still totally retracted, I decided to
move them up about 5" so that they could get more flow (thinking that if they
are reacting to the Joes Juice, the flow might help "clear the air")--the
consequences of this movement are that they are a little higher up and in full
lighting.
Other than the application of Joes Juice, I have done nothing new to the tank
(other than normal maintenance)--no new livestock, rock, or any other addition.
Now about my tank/lighting. Tank/lighting: 110g display (48" long x 30" high x
18" deep) with 30g refugium; 6 x 54W T5 HO (4 10,000K and 2 460nm actinics);
wet-dry filter; Coral Life 125g Super Skimmer; 2 MaxiJet 1200 power heads; and
return flow from Little Giant 1245 gph pump. Display livestock: 70lbs live rock,
1 Sailfin Tang, 1 Gold Stripe Maroon, 1 Atrosalarias fuscus, and 1 Royal Gramma,
5 green hairy mushrooms, 5 red mushrooms, 1 BTA,
<This animal is stationary, open, has room about it?>
the 2 tree corals noted above, 12 snails, 24 hermits, 2 cleaner shrimp; 2 Sally
Lightfoot Crabs; and 1 small decorator crab that came in with my live rock.
Refugium has 4-6" DSB, 3.5lbs of live rock, and a large piece of Chaeto, with
lighting on a reverse daylight cycle. My parameters: Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate
all 0; alk is 3.5 meq/L; calcium ranges from 350-400; phosphate is 0;
temperature 78*-80*. Daily top-off and 10% weekly water changes, both using
buffered RO/DI water. The only supplements I add are Kent Marine Tech CB Parts
A/B daily/as needed and Kent Marine iodine (6 drops daily).
<... Do you test for this last? I would not apply it daily... perhaps weekly w/
water changes>
The tree corals are on the far left side of my tank; the BTA is in the middle at
the bottom, and the two colonies of shrooms are on the right side of my tank.
Because everyone has gotten along for over 1 month, I am pretty sure that there
is sufficient space between all corals such that there is no significant
chemical warfare going on. I do run activated carbon in my sump, which I change
every 3-4 weeks.
<Okay>
I am worried that the small amount of Joes Juice that may have made contact with
the tree coral has really irked them, but I would have thought that it would
have gotten over this by now?
<Mmm, apparently not>
Two other thoughts. First, I'm thinking that my decorator crab has attacked
them. The other day I noticed that, in addition to the pieces of orange sponge
that he walks around with, it appears that he has decided to add some polyps to
his portfolio. These polyps look like they "might" have come from my tree coral
(as I don't have any other similar coral in the tank, that's the only thing I
can think of).
<It's mainly the "juice">
Second, I do not target feed any of my corals. I realize that the mushrooms rely
primarily on zooxanthellae. I guess I was thinking that my fuge coupled with
daily feeding of Mysid to my fish would supply food to the tree corals, but
maybe I am wrong. Am I starving my tree coral (and, if so, any suggestions on a
good food product)?
<See WWM, the Net... should be fed every other day... HUFA's...>
Wouldn't a starving coral degenerate slowly and, in fact, remain extended
looking for food?
<Mmm, generally so, yes>
If this is the case, how can I get this coral to re-extend so I can feed it?
Any thoughts you have are appreciated.
Andy
<Give up the juice. Bob Fenner>
Re: Tree Coral Health
7/31/07
Thanks for the response, Bob. Tree corals have since recovered.
<Ah, good. RMF>
ORP Fluctuations/Aiptasia Infestation
Controls - 06/04/07
Hi Crew!
<<Hiya Roger!>>
180g main tank w/55gal sump/refugium, ASM 300 skimmer, 170 lbs LR, 4" sand
bed in main tank. Softies and LPS w/2 small frags of Acropora and
Pocillopora. 4 Yellowtail Blue Damsels, 1 large Siganus vulpinus, 1
Ctenochaetus strigosus, 1 Gramma loreto, 1 Pink Spotted Shrimp Goby, 2
Engineer Gobies, 2 Black Axel Chromis. 1 Midas Blenny. 1 Large Lysmata
amboinensis. Astrea Snails and various hermits, also 2, 2" Fighting Conchs.
6 80w T5's. I use Salifert for my water testing to confirm any test for
which I don't trust the results.
<<Very good>>
Hagen, Aquarium Pharmaceuticals & Red Sea, are my routine test
kits.
<<Mmm...I hope you are using the Salifert kits regularly>>
Calcium 450, KH 9-10, NO2 "0", NO3 "0" pH 8.3, and Temp 80 F. I have an ORP
monitor that reads 425 - 450 overnight.
<<You are administering ozone then? Be careful this reading doesn’t go
higher>>
When I add food soaked with Selcon the ORP drops rapidly into the high
300's.
<<Not at all unusual...>>
I have checked the ORP probe with calibration fluid and it goes perfectly to
400.
<<Nothing wrong with the probe here...the drop is related/a reaction to the
addition of organic material (food, Selcon) to the water column...and a good
example of how the REDOX meter can be used to monitor water quality>>
My FO tank also has an ORP monitor and I have switched them, with the same
result. Is this dangerous to my creatures?
<<Not in my experience...as indicated, ORP levels fluctuate continuously in
relation to water chemistry...and to be honest, readings in the “high 300s”
are still very good/quite acceptable>>
Visually, everyone is doing well and actually growing! I feed Zooplan,
Marine Snow, Phytoplan, enriched live brine shrimp, and Omega One flake
soaked in Selcon or Kent Marine Zoe, alternatively.
<<Do be cautious of overuse of the invertebrate foods...and for your fishes
sake expand their diet a bit with some vegetable matter for the Tang and the
Foxface, and I highly recommend the addition of New Life Spectrum pellets
for all>>
I have your book, Bob!
<<Is an excellent read>>
Second question. I also have an Aiptasia problem.
<<A very common malady>>
I feel my water quality is good and my tank is 10 mos. old.
<<Good water - bad water...has little to do with the Aiptasia...these
organisms don’t even need light. The problems encountered with Aiptasia stem
from their mere introduction to the system...and an adequate food source
(reflect on my previous comment re the invertebrate foods)>>
Many pods, etc. seen on a regular basis. I know there are no absolutes, but
do you think a Copperband would be worth a try?
<<This is a possibility, though they seem to prefer young/emergent Aiptasia
as opposed to lager specimens, in my experience>>
If not, what would you suggest?
<<You can try the Copperband as a biological “control,” even a few Atlantic
Peppermint Shrimp...but these only address the “symptoms” of the infestation
and not the cure. Sometimes this proves to be enough...ofttimes not...>>
Have tried Joe's Juice w/the same results as most of your correspondents? It
kills, but babies pop up in bigger numbers.
<<I have never used this product, but I have used Lemon Juice injected in to
the oral disc with good result>>
I very much appreciated your advice on a previous question about angels &
you prevented me from making a big mistake; from a responsibility to the
environment standpoint and from a responsible aquarist standpoint.
<<Don’t know who that was, but it is good to hear they were able to help>>
Any guidance will be most appreciated. It seems as if Copperbands get good
reviews in your threads, if they fit a system.
<<Ah yes, your last statement is “key.” These are not “easy” fish to
acclimate/keep...very susceptible to disease/poor water quality, and often
difficult to get to eat. If you try this fish, be sure to get one that is
feeding on something other than brine shrimp...frozen Mysids/Mysis
preferably>>
Thanks again!
<<Happy to assist>>
Roger Tisdale from the backwoods of South Carolina!
<<Backwoods, forewoods, sidewoods...heck Roger, it’s “all woods” around this
state! [grin] Eric Russell in Columbia, SC>>
Joes Juice for Aiptasia Control Versus BTA, Entacmaea quadricolor - 2/4/07
Hello,
<Hi Sharon, Brenda here>
I have 3 BTAs and an Aiptasia problem. Before using Joe’s Juice, I would like to
know if this will harm the BTAs.
<There is mixed results with Joe’s Juice for Aiptasia control. To answer your
question, too much at once may harm your BTA. If you choose this route, I would
not use it near your BTA. Start out slow and watch your livestock closely.>
My first thought was to move the infested rock to a bucket filled with saltwater
and zap them there, but all of my rock can be removed. Help!
<An alternative that I have used is Peppermint Shrimp, Lysmata Wurdemanni.
Unfortunately others have had mixed results with Peppermint Shrimp. There is
more information on both here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/cav1i3/aiptasia_impressions/aiptaisia_impressions.htm
>
Sharon
<Hope this helps. Brenda>
Re: Aiptasia (sorry I know you get a lot of these emails), Blue Line product
- 08/15/06
Thank you very much for the response. I have read all the material you
suggested and have decided that the Berghia sounds like the best option. First
I will try to eliminate using Kalkwasser, or Joe's Juice (By the way there is a
new product available from Blue Line called Aiptasia control, so far the only
place we at the LFS can get it is at Sea Dwelling Creatures, I find this works
better than Joe's Juice, knocks them down for good in one shot),
<Thank you for this input>
although I don't like adding chemicals when I don't know what they are. Just to
be sure, you wouldn't recommend a Raccoon Butterfly in a reef tank, would you?
<Depending on the size of the system, what other livestock there was...>
Thanks again for putting up with my never ending supply of questions, Ryan.
<No worries. Bob Fenner>
Aiptasia Control...In Your Face, Man 6/16/06
Had an Aiptasia growing near a nice clump of frog spawn in a tight spot.
I hate the look and general attitude of these little guys. I bought a small
syringe and needle at Walgreen's (30 cents) filled it with Marine
Aquarium Iodine (I add some to my tank periodically anyway), stuck it in his
face and gave him a blast. No more Aiptasia. Don't know if this is
the Rosetta Stone answer for this pest, but it worked for me.
<Bob, thank you for the info. Will post on the dailies. Although this may work
well for a couple of these critters, caution should be given as to iodine
levels if eradicating larger amounts of Aiptasia with this method. James (Salty
Dog)>
Thanks.
Bob
Re: Aiptasia and Frogspawn corals 5/31/06
Hello Bob.
The return of the Aiptasia, imagine that!
A strange thing noticed on the specimen growing among the frogspawn colony: The
tentacles closest to the frogspawn polyps are receded and wilted while the pest
tries to avoid these polyps.
I found several others growing near the top of the tank where the P. skimmer
empties into the water. I know why they grow here though only discovered their
presence in the passed couple weeks. This is where I put food for dispersion by
the flowing water and it sometimes collects near the top of the rock.
I purchased what I thought are Peppermint shrimp but I am not so sure as these
are larger than usual and the coloration seems more subdued and the specimens
darker. These are neat little guys at any rate even if they do happen to be the
wrong shrimp. I am still looking for the Berghia but have never seen one offered
at any of the LFS(s). Right now I am using my QT tank for control though the one
rock is exceptionally large where these pests reside. I may restart my 55 gallon
tank and purchase a Copperband butterfly or similar species for control... not
sure though as incurring more expenses and maintaining yet another tank might
get real old real fast. Maybe if I can repair the light fixture on the 24 gallon
(I think the external ballast went) then the new light I got could get moved....
Decisions, decisions....
Sincerely,
James Zimmer
<<James: Frogspawn has a powerful sting. Sounds like it is stronger than the
sting of an Aiptasia. Peppermints are hit or miss. When I have bought them,
only about 1/2 to 2/3 eat Aiptasia. Berghia are available online. If you do a
search on www.reefcentral.com and other sites you may find people selling
them. Unfortunately, if they work, they will die once they have eaten all the
Aiptasia. Rather than use critters, if you don't have too many, I like to make
a batch of Kalk paste and inject it into the Aiptasia holes with the plastic
syringe you get with baby medicines. After you inject it, don't scrape the
paste off. Eventually coralline algae will grow right over it. Best of luck,
Roy>>
Re: Aiptasia and Frogspawn corals - 06/01/2006
Roy.
Thank you for the advice on Aiptasia control.
I have used the Kalk paste or slurry also and depending on location or
orientation to preferred animals I am sometimes reluctant. Yes, this
latest crop will have my work cut for me. I may just use the paste method again
for the large rock as it is too much to move into the
smaller QT. As for smaller rocks I can move them and train, hopefully, the
shrimp to eat the pest anemones. I will not use concentrated Ca(OH)2 near the
frogspawn if I can at all help it.
Again, thank you.
James
<<James: You're welcome. Based on my experience, the Peppermint Shrimp will
either like Aiptasia or not (that's why if you have a big enough tank, it's good
to buy 2 to 3 to see who will eat them). In my best case, one peppermint ate
about 100 Aiptasia within about a day. It was amazing to see him attack
them. He looked like a boxer working on a speed bag. Unfortunately, for that
Peppermint Shrimp a Skunk Cleaner Shrimp attacked him and ate him. I guess the
Skunk Cleaner liked the taste of Aiptasia fed shrimp. If you are careful with
the baby medicine syringe and make a thick enough paste, you can inject the
paste with a lot of control (like you are decorating a cake). If some of the
paste starts to float off, just disburse it as fast as you can. In my
experience, if a little bit brushes a coral (such as your frogspawn) as it
floats buy, it won't hurt anything. Best of luck, Roy>>
Aiptasia Control...No Shots Please! - 05/22/2006
I was wondering if you have had any knowledge of removing these with a
hypodermic needle and vinegar into the stalk of the base? I have
one growing on a snail in my 50g reef tank.
<Would not do this, vinegar is very acidic and not safe in your tank.
Do read here and linked files above. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/aiptasia/aiptasia.htm
Thanks,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Edwin
Aiptasia eradication plan
5/16/06
Hi to the fine folks at WWM,
I will try to make this short; for many reasons I am invested with
Aiptasia (mainly my live rock) in my main tank. This is my plan: Treat
corals with Joe's Juice and transfer piece by piece slowly to another
tank. When all my main coral's are in the new tank and appear to be
clean I am going thoroughly clean the old tank and fill with fresh water
and let it sit. I will then start the process in reverse. My main
question is how tough is Aiptasia? How long to leave it in the fresh
water? Thanks and please let me know if this is too radical?
Yours (should buy stock in Joe's Juice Company),
Greg
<<Greg: At the bottom of this link there is a lot of info about Aiptasia
control
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mardisindex.htm
Personally, my favorite method is to use peppermint shrimp (though only 1/2 to
2/3 will eat them). I also like to make a Kalkwasser paste and inject it with a
baby's medicine syringe into the hole the Aiptasia lives in. Don't touch the
paste afterwards. Coralline algae will grow right over it over time. I don't
know how many you have. Sometimes it is hard to spot them all. I'm not sure
why you want to move things back and forth and use fresh water. Sometimes when
people are really desperate, they carefully take everything they want off the
rocks, pull the rocks out of the water and let them sit in the backyard for
awhile. In theory, everything, including the Aiptasia should eventually
die. Then, they put the rocks back and hope that the rocks will get
recolonized. Believe it or not, other people have even used blow
torches. Personally, I think those are crazy/radical approaches. Best of luck,
Roy>>
Archaster Star corrosion, Aiptasia removal success 4/20/06
Hi there!
I was looking for information on why my sand sifter star seems to be losing the
tips of his legs (29 gallon tank, has been set up for 20
months with one complete disassembly to move it downstairs).
<Too small a space for this species... not enough room for endogenous food
production>
I finally found the information on your site, along with the information that I
have too small a tank - and I really appreciate how you answer all those emails.
You have also in the past had great information on getting rid of Aiptasia
anenomes (I managed to get over 72 of them in my tank - that
was just what I could count!). I ended up removing the various shrimps from my
tank, added 4 peppermint shrimps, and later 2 Berghia
nudibranchs (although once they disappear in your live rock tank, it is
impossible to find them again). The last few tenacious anenomes I
was able to get rid of by either covering them with a thick Kalkwasser paste
(just thin enough to squeeze out of a syringe needle
tip) of injecting them with lemon juice (I eventually went with this because I
thought it was slightly less dangerous to the tank).
I have finally gotten rid of all the Aiptasia, and so my corals are very
happy...will be resolving my sandsifter problem soon I hope.
Thanks again for all your help,
Kerstin DeRolf:-)
<Bob Fenner>
When Life Gives You Lemons... 03/9/06
Hello.
<Hi there! Scott F. here today!>
I recently purchase a 55 gallon marine aquarium that had around 20 pounds of
live rock. All of the live rock was covered with Aiptasia anemones. I tried
tweezers to pull them off and was hardly successful so I tried injecting lemon
juice in the Aiptasia mouths and only managed to kill a few. Then I got
Desperate and I had put all the live rock in a 20 gallon that was already 1/3
full of water and I dumped the rest of the lemon juice bottle. Which
was nearly full. I had the live rock soaking in the tank for about
20 minutes twice and I was wondering if this had ruined the live rock? Note
that almost all the Aiptasia survived. I noticed also that some of the bristle
or Fireworms had fallen out dead but there were still some left when I looked
that
night. So basically I was just wondering if the live rock was wasted or useless
now. I still have an equal amount from the previous marine tank I had that has
not been soaked in lemon juice.
Thanks, Riley
<Well, Riley, I'm sure that some life was lost on the rock, but if the Aiptasia
survived the citrus plunge, there is a definite chance that the more desirable
stuff survived, too. At the worst, the rock can be re-used, and will "colonize"
with new life over time. I say, use it! Good Luck! Regards, Scott F.>
Aiptasia status report/Aiptasia Control - 02/27/06
Hi, Crew! <Hello Amy>
Just thought I would weigh in on my experiences with Aiptasia control and a
variety of methods, after reading all the FAQs. Bottom line: Nothing yet seems
to work. I have tried 1) Injections with lemon juice. This worked temporarily;
they eventually grew back, and if you get even one or two hiding in crevices
that you can't see, it's all over - they'll reproduce out of control from their
hidden location. 2) Joe's Juice - this doesn't work very well either. It does
indeed kill the target anemone, but there is a significant problem: it seems to
force the dying anemone to clone. I tested this by feeding Joe's Juice to an
anemone that was stuck to the wall of the aquarium, so it was clearly visible on
all sides. Sure enough, the Aiptasia died, but it left behind a ring of ~5 or
so tiny clones, which are now growing to full size. *sigh* I have used
literally a dozen boxes of Joe's Juice, and all it seems to do is induce them to
clone. Watch out!
Since I'm very much against bringing any wild-caught animals into captivity now,
I'm going to try Berghia nudibranchs. I have two arriving on Tuesday
morning. I'm setting up a breeding tank, along with a holding tank for
Aiptasias (not that this is a huge problem at the moment - my main tank is
covered with hundreds now). Will let you know how it goes! If they clean up
the Aiptasias, I'll pass them along. <Thank you for the email and do let us know
your results. James (Salty Dog)>
Amy
Dropped Joe's juice right on my anemone 8/5/05
Hi
<Tracy>
I use Joe's Juice for Aiptasia control. Though it does indeed seem to
be harmless when in the water column, last night I accidentally dropped
a medium dose on part of a Condylactis spp. anemone. This anemone was
actually part of a bigger one I have had for 4 yrs that just last week
split into 2. Both were doing great until this happened.
<Yikes>
It immediately curled up looked like it was dying etc. But this morning
the victim had split into 2 pieces, each with base tightly adherent to
different rocks.
<Yes... stressed induced schizogyny>
Each piece has some normal looking tentacles and some
shriveled, damaged ones. (Now I have 3 anemones, unbelievable, my skunk
clown is going nuts trying to take care of all 3.)
2 questions: 1. Is there anything I can do to support its recovery?
<Optimized, stable water quality... patience>
2. What are the criteria for removing a damaged anemone to avoid poisoning
my 150 gallon thriving system?
<"If it's mush, time to flush" (Made this up just now!). Vacuum out the mass if
it is falling apart, permanently flaccid>
I called my LFS, and they said make sure I have adequate iodine levels.
<A good idea... won't hurt anything>
I called Joe, and he had no specific suggestions, but thought that it may do
fine, since sometimes a half-poisoned Aiptasia will recover, and
this is 20x that size.
Thanks for being a consistent source of good advice for my weird problems!
Tracy Creek/Atlanta
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>
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