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Snail/Puffer Eco System
11/6/07
Hello, I am cycling fishless, currently waiting to set up a Figure 8 puffer
in a 30 gallon tank.
<Very good.>
I have done a good amount of research and one of the things I have noticed is
that a lot of sites say F8s don’t need snails to wear their beak down, but the
ones that seem devoted to the brackish fish all say F8s needs snails, including
this one.
<It's one of those points where "your mileage may vary". Figure-8 puffers do NOT
seem to be among the Pufferfish species prone to overgrown teeth. South American
freshwater puffers (Colomesus spp.) and the Asian genera Auriglobus and
Chonerhinos seem to be much more troubled by this issue. This likely reflects
different rates of tooth-growth, presumably connected to different types of food
in the wild. But that said, Tetraodon spp. can get overgrown teeth. So providing
at least some shelly food is a good idea, and snails are very convenient.>
I am a bit of a softy when it comes to live feeding but under the right
conditions (one being I really really like the fish, second being tank
sustainability of the live feeder) I will.
<Indeed. Sticking live food into a tank adds a load to the filter, and in the
case of Pufferfish, there are clear advantages to keeping water quality as a
high as possible.>
My questions: What would be the minimum to feed F8s keeping them happy and
healthy. Say, a basic “Feed snails every six months for a week” response.
<It all depends. If you're giving the Pufferfish just soft food, such as
bloodworms, day in, day out, then you may find the teeth become overgrown. In
this case, using snails once a week would be a good idea. But if you're feeding
them unshelled prawns, frozen krill, live woodlice and other prey that have
shells already, the teeth may wear down just fine by themselves. So rather than
looking at snails as a "cure", take an holistic approach instead. Try and make
sure most meals are "crunchy" so that the puffer's teeth wear down all by
themselves. The grocery store and the back garden will both provide plenty of
suitable fodder. Unshelled prawns can be taken apart easily enough. You eat the
yummy meat, but give the legs and tail-fins to the puffers. My puffers love
woodlice, and these make a very satisfying crunching sound, suggesting that they
are plenty hard enough to wear down the teeth if used regularly. And so on. Use
your own common sense and see what you have to hand.>
Second question is, is there a snail that will out reproduce my puffer or out
reproduce my puffer enough that I would only have to buy a new set of snails
every few months or so?
<The ideal in many people's opinion are the small pond snail Physa spp. These
are the semi-transparent snails often seen in aquaria. They are easy to rear in
ponds. But I have to admit my puffers eat them only grudgingly, and normally
only if I crush them first. So again, your own experiences will have to colour
your actions.>
This site states that the Malaysian Trumpet Snails are okay for Brackish water
but I have read elsewhere that they can’t live in any salt water.
<Melanoides tuberculata will thrive at anything up to around 50% seawater
salinity. They are phenomenally durable animals.>
I do know they breed very fast.
<Indeed. But some aquarists have connected broken teeth on their puffers with
the presence of Melanoides snails. I have to admit to being skeptical of this,
having watched Pufferfish crack open oysters in the wild, but in the interest of
fairness I will at least recount those observations. I have Melanoides snails in
many of my tanks, and puffers will sometimes eat the tiny juveniles. But they
seem to show no interest in the adults. Quite possibly their shells are too
strong for the small Pufferfish I'm keeping to open. On the other hand, I don't
have "plagues" of these Melanoides snails in my tanks, at least not in the tanks
with Pufferfish. So the puffers presumably do kill enough of the juveniles to
moderate population growth.>
I know Olive Nerites ARE brackish snails but also read they are slow breeders.
<Nerites don't really breed at all in aquaria. Their life cycle seems to be
fairly tricky to accommodate in captivity. Some people have had success, but it
seems more by luck than judgment. Be that as it may, Nerites are practically
bullet-proof, and small puffers don't seem to be able to eat them.>
Is there another snail that would fit my bill?
<The pond snail Physa is likely the balance between size, ease of care, and
willingness to breed. Apple snails could be reared separately, but they don't
last long in brackish water so would have to be added "one meal at a time".>
Basically my thoughts are, if I have to feed live, I want to do it as minimal as
possible, or set up a system where, with other then a few interventions, is
nature-like and the live food can benefit from being in the tank also. I am I
crazy?
<Not crazy at all. I've found Pufferfish teeth get worn down "automatically" in
tanks with a combination of Melanoides snails and silica sand; one or the other
doesn't seem to work by itself. Possibly foraging in the sand combines enough
grit with the prey animal to do the trick. Others have experimented with
"feeding stones". These are rough rocks such as Tufa and pumice into which
suitable food (such as prawn) is smeared and then any loose food rinsed off. To
get the food, the puffers need to work away at the rock -- just as they would do
in the wild. Yet others simply get into the routine of doing the dental work as
and when required. It's really not that difficult, though admittedly requires a
steady hand! Cheers, Neale>
Brackish Water Invertebrates 6/26/06
Hello Bob,
<Nope, it's Pufferpunk here, to answer your BW Qs.>
I came across your site - very interesting and informative. I have a
brackish tank - it's been running about 3 years now and is populated with
Bumblebee Gobies. Can you tell me if there are any brackish water invertebrates
such as shrimp, etc which help keep the tank clean and not eat/get eaten by the
gobies?
<Ghost shrimp should work, if acclimated correctly. ~PP>
Thank you, Melissa Stanton
Marine Inverts in Brackish Aquaria? - 01/03/2006
I've looked all over the web on this question.
<All of it? It's a big place.>
So ya'll are my last hope on this one.
<I'll see what I can do Obi-Won...I mean Michael.>
I have a light brackish 29 gallon with an Archer and a Leopard Puffer. My
question is can I buy a saltwater crab and acclimate it to my tank.
<Generally speaking; no. Reef Invertebrates come from one of the most stable
environments and can not adapt to such a change.>
I am willing to increase my salinity, if need be.
<Research WWM re: the proper environment for marine inverts.>
I know puffers eat crabs and snails, however mine is pretty small and well fed
with lots of cover in tank for hiding.
<You'd be surprised how much damage that little beak can do.>
Maybe a larger crab or hermit?
<See above.>
Thanks, Michael
<Welcome, Adam J.>
Thread-Like Worms 3/12/05
Dear Crew,
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
I have a GSP in a 10 gallon brackish tank. The fish appears fine and is eating fine. His right gill slit is
slightly opened (you can see a pocket of pink) compared to the left but he is not laboring to breathe. I think he was like that since I purchased him 1 month ago? No parasitic infestations are apparent on the fish. There are however wiggly 3 to 5mm thread-like worms swimming freely in the water and appear to be multiplying (not sure). The fish is fed frozen and dried krill, blood worms and brine shrimp and also live snails a few times per week. He is feed once a day six days a week. The GSP is uninterested in these creatures but are these worms parasites and potentially harmful to the puffer? They do not appear to be
Planaria or leaches or insect larvae. They might have a head-really hard to make out however. Please advise or reference.
<The white worms you speak of appears in tanks that are overfed and contain less than optimal water. They are harmless, but the fact that they're in the tank means you need to feed less & do more water changes (50% weekly is recommended). A 10g will not hold a GSP for long.
See: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/BrackishSubWebIndex/gspsart.htm ~PP>
Anemone & Puffers? 1/18/05
Bob you have a great web site.
<This is Pufferpunk here, but I'll thank you on behalf of Bob.>
My question is if you think a Beadlet anemone would work in a brackish water
system. I have read it would. My specific gravity is about 1.020, ph is 7.0
and since it is a new tank set up there is really not any ammonia.
<Although 1.020 is actually considered low-end SW, I wouldn't suggest an anemone
with your puffers. They may try to eat it & get extremely sick. I have heard
of them dying this way. I am concerned about your low pH though. SW requires a
pH of at least 8 to keep it stable & also your puffers & scat prefer a higher
pH. what kind of substrate are you using? Using aragonite or crushed coral,
should keep it around a steady 8. Has that tank been cycled?>
I have 1 green Scat and 2 Green Spotted Puffers.
<The scat will grow as large as your outstretched hand & the puffers will get to
be 6". Both are messy eaters & high waste producers. Good filtration, a large
tank & regular weekly water changes are in order for these fish. As juveniles,
it actually is best to keep these fish in a lower SG. See:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/BrackishSubWebIndex/gspsart.htm>
Also I'm thinking about purchase a Snowflake Eel, but the pet shop said the
puffers were trying to consume the eel. Do you think that I should purchase the
eel anyway? I don't want to make the deal then find eel pieces later. I think
the problem was that the eel didn't have a shelter to hide in. (I have two).
<I generally don't recommend keeping GSPs in with any sedentary fish.>
Please help!!!!!!!
Sincerely, BrackishBeast
<I hope this helps, ~PP>
Brackish snails
4/13/04
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
Are there any snails that can survive in salinity of between .006 and 012?
<Nope. There are no BW snails. FW & SW snails will die in BW. ~PP>
Brackish snails
4/13/04
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
Are there any snails that can survive in salinity of between .006 and 012?
<Nope. There are no BW snails. FW & SW snails will die in BW. ~PP>
I saw this posted today and I do believe that the Olive Nerites snail is a
true brackish water snail native to Florida
(http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/sept2003/invert.htm). I
have a
dozen of them in my brackish (1.010) tank and they do quite well. I also
have several dozen in my freshwater tanks although soft water can cause
shell erosion over time. These are the most versatile snails I've ever had
since they eat algae, leave plants alone, are adaptable to a wide variety of
water conditions, and my clown loaches don't eat them. They're also
inexpensive at www.azgardens.com.
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