Brackish Sponges and Regenerating Mangroves  4/17/08
Hello,
I always read this amazing website for helpful information! I have a new (been running for 3 months) brackish tank with a SG of 1.006, and one Monodactylus (I did have two but he cruelly mauled the other one).
<Not uncommon behaviour; I've found largish odd numbers, i.e., 5+ specimens work best. Mixing them with Scats and West African Monos seems to help, strangely enough. Perhaps stops any one fish becoming over-dominant.>
I would love to keep coral, but I have found that they cannot live in brackish water. I have seen many pictures of colourful sponges growing on mangrove roots, and they look surprisingly like coral. Please could you tell me if you know there are any colourful brackish sponges available?
<There are many brackish water sponges, and actually quite a few freshwater sponges -- but to the best of my knowledge none of them are traded. While some "reef" invertebrates have turned out to be shallow marine environment organisms that do well in brackish water at middling salinities -- Clibanarius tricolor for example -- I'm not aware of any sponges or corals that fit into this category. Beadlet Anemones (Actinia equina) do fairly well at reduced salinities to around SG 1.015, maybe lower, and despite being temperate organisms in the wild can thrive in well maintained tropical tanks. I'd recommend those perhaps as the best alternative, and sometimes they are traded as "brackish water anemones". I'm actually a bit dubious of their long term survival (they aren't normally found in mid- to low-salinity brackish environments) but some aquarists have had reasonable success with them If you live somewhere they are naturally found, as here in England, you can of course collect your own as they are very common organisms. When collecting wild livestock, do always remember to take the minimum number, minimise disruption to other organisms, and don't collect from places it is illegal or dangerous to do so.>
Also, I have a few Red Mangrove (Rhizophora mangle) propagules in a pot. Because it is very cold here, I keep them in a heated propagator. The other month, the pot fell over as I placed the lid on to the propagator and this chopped the crown off three of the mangroves, far behind the bottom growth nodes! Recently, little red bumps have appeared at the base of the stems, and They have grown into large glossy red buds! I am amazed, because I thought they would die for sure! A few years ago, I killed a mangrove that had a very long stem with 7-8 pairs of leaves by deliberately pinching the top bud off. I have a small photo attached showing the buds.
<Nothing attached.>
Hopefully they will grow further into interesting plants!
<Indeed; good luck!>
Thank you very much for your time. James
<Cheers, Neale.>

Snail/Puffer Eco System  11/6/07
Hello, I am cycling fishless, currently waiting to set up a Figure 8 puffer in a 30 gallon tank.
<Very good.>
I have done a good amount of research and one of the things I have noticed is that a lot of sites say F8s don’t need snails to wear their beak down, but the ones that seem devoted to the brackish fish all say F8s needs snails, including this one.
<It's one of those points where "your mileage may vary". Figure-8 puffers do NOT seem to be among the Pufferfish species prone to overgrown teeth. South American freshwater puffers (Colomesus spp.) and the Asian genera Auriglobus and Chonerhinos seem to be much more troubled by this issue. This likely reflects different rates of tooth-growth, presumably connected to different types of food in the wild. But that said, Tetraodon spp. can get overgrown teeth. So providing at least some shelly food is a good idea, and snails are very convenient.>
I am a bit of a softy when it comes to live feeding but under the right conditions (one being I really really like the fish, second being tank sustainability of the live feeder) I will.
<Indeed. Sticking live food into a tank adds a load to the filter, and in the case of Pufferfish, there are clear advantages to keeping water quality as a high as possible.>
My questions: What would be the minimum to feed F8s keeping them happy and healthy. Say, a basic “Feed snails every six months for a week” response.
<It all depends. If you're giving the Pufferfish just soft food, such as bloodworms, day in, day out, then you may find the teeth become overgrown. In this case, using snails once a week would be a good idea. But if you're feeding them unshelled prawns, frozen krill, live woodlice and other prey that have shells already, the teeth may wear down just fine by themselves. So rather than looking at snails as a "cure", take an holistic approach instead. Try and make sure most meals are "crunchy" so that the puffer's teeth wear down all by themselves. The grocery store and the back garden will both provide plenty of suitable fodder. Unshelled prawns can be taken apart easily enough. You eat the yummy meat, but give the legs and tail-fins to the puffers. My puffers love woodlice, and these make a very satisfying crunching sound, suggesting that they are plenty hard enough to wear down the teeth if used regularly. And so on. Use your own common sense and see what you have to hand.>
Second question is, is there a snail that will out reproduce my puffer or out reproduce my puffer enough that I would only have to buy a new set of snails every few months or so?
<The ideal in many people's opinion are the small pond snail Physa spp. These are the semi-transparent snails often seen in aquaria. They are easy to rear in ponds. But I have to admit my puffers eat them only grudgingly, and normally only if I crush them first. So again, your own experiences will have to colour your actions.>
This site states that the Malaysian Trumpet Snails are okay for Brackish water but I have read elsewhere that they can’t live in any salt water.
<Melanoides tuberculata will thrive at anything up to around 50% seawater salinity. They are phenomenally durable animals.>
I do know they breed very fast.
<Indeed. But some aquarists have connected broken teeth on their puffers with the presence of Melanoides snails. I have to admit to being skeptical of this, having watched Pufferfish crack open oysters in the wild, but in the interest of fairness I will at least recount those observations. I have Melanoides snails in many of my tanks, and puffers will sometimes eat the tiny juveniles. But they seem to show no interest in the adults. Quite possibly their shells are too strong for the small Pufferfish I'm keeping to open. On the other hand, I don't have "plagues" of these Melanoides snails in my tanks, at least not in the tanks with Pufferfish. So the puffers presumably do kill enough of the juveniles to moderate population growth.>
I know Olive Nerites ARE brackish snails but also read they are slow breeders.
<Nerites don't really breed at all in aquaria. Their life cycle seems to be fairly tricky to accommodate in captivity. Some people have had success, but it seems more by luck than judgment. Be that as it may, Nerites are practically bullet-proof, and small puffers don't seem to be able to eat them.>
Is there another snail that would fit my bill?
<The pond snail Physa is likely the balance between size, ease of care, and willingness to breed. Apple snails could be reared separately, but they don't last long in brackish water so would have to be added "one meal at a time".>
Basically my thoughts are, if I have to feed live, I want to do it as minimal as possible, or set up a system where, with other then a few interventions, is nature-like and the live food can benefit from being in the tank also. I am I crazy?
<Not crazy at all. I've found Pufferfish teeth get worn down "automatically" in tanks with a combination of Melanoides snails and silica sand; one or the other doesn't seem to work by itself. Possibly foraging in the sand combines enough grit with the prey animal to do the trick. Others have experimented with "feeding stones". These are rough rocks such as Tufa and pumice into which suitable food (such as prawn) is smeared and then any loose food rinsed off. To get the food, the puffers need to work away at the rock -- just as they would do in the wild. Yet others simply get into the routine of doing the dental work as and when required. It's really not that difficult, though admittedly requires a steady hand! Cheers, Neale>