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Puffer w/ich – 04/1/08
Hello,
I just recently purchased a F8 puffer and while he seemed fine at the store, he
appears to have a few white spots on his tail now since yesterday. He has been a
good eater this week and generally acting like a puffer, but today it seems that
he is holding one of his pectoral fins close to his body and is not using it to
hover around, however still very interested in food. He is in a SG of 1.003 with
a Knight Goby and 2 small mollies in a 30" long 20 gallon tank. I intend to
raise the salinity to 1.005 over time, but did not want to shock my plants or my
bacteria.
<Going from SG 1.003 to SG 1.005 should be fine.>
He was in a freshwater tank with African cichlids at the LFS.
<Poor thing.>
Since puffers are a bit delicate to meds, what temp and salinity can I use to
combat this if it does indeed sound like ich to you?
<SG 1.003 should do the trick all by itself, and certainly SG 1.005 would.>
BTW, Water is ph 8.0, Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 5, SG 1.003, 2 HOB filters
at 250 gph combined, temp 82F
<All sounds nice.>
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
K
<Good luck, Neale.>
Ich--Out of Control! 3/19/06
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
I am in tears right now over my fish.
I recently set up a brackish tank because I fell in love with the
puffer fish. One of the first fish that I added into my BW tank was two
zebra puffers.
<Colomesus asellus? See:
http://www.thepufferforum.com/articles/puffer/sapuffer.html >
I had some scats in the tank to cycle the water and everything was fine until I
got a couple GS puffers and 3 F8s from another pet store.
<A lot of bioload to add all at once. Scats grow as large as dinner plates &
require 50g each (adult size). Green spotted puffers grow to 6", require marine
conditions as adults & 30-40g each. F8s like low-end BW (1.005), need 15g for
one & 10 more for each extra puffer.>
I was then informed that the Zebra puffers were not BW fish.
<Correct.>
So now I had two fish that had no place to go. I do have a FW tank, but it is
pretty full and I thought that I saw some ick on the Z puffers, so I did not
want to spread into my other tank.
I decided to remove the Z puffers. Yes, they had ick...
<This species in particular, is very sensitive to ich. Must be quarantined &
treated right after purchasing.>
So I am thinking that maybe they were stressed from the BW conditions and I
moved them into a small, already cycled 16 gallon tank. I treated the ick in
the 16 gallon with JUNGLE Ick clear, along with my BW tank. I saw a few spots
on the scats and a couple F8s by this time. Well, I treated both tanks for 3
days and the ick cleared up in both tanks.
<Just long enough for them to become immune to the treatment. It's like not
using antibiotics for the full recommended period.>
About 6 days later I noticed that the Z puffers in the 16 gallon FW had signs of
ick again, so I immediately used JUNGLE ick and I had gotten 2 glass fish for
the BW tank and I swear, by the time I got them home and dumped them in the tank
- not more than 1 hour passed and the glass fish had ick spots, so I also
treated that 40 gallon BW tank with JUNGLE Ick again also. Well, after 3 days
of treatment, my Z puffers had not responded to the treatment and have gotten
steadily worse. My BW tank has held its own but still no signs of
improvement. I then put the carbon back in the 40 gallon BW tank (Fluval)
and the 16 gal tank, waited 12 hours, did a 25% water change and switched
medicine to Kordon Prevent Ick. I used that for 2 days in both tanks, cutting
the medicine down a little bit because of the puffers being sensitive and all of
my fish seemed to have gotten worse. So, I then changed medicine AGAIN with
Kordon Rid-Ick. Now, after 3 days all of my fish that were infected are either
the same or worse. The Z puffers look so bad - one is also starting to get fin
rot, that I have thought about putting them out of their misery, ether by having
a friend of
mine freeze them or me flushing them.
<Overdosing with clove oil is best (found in the toothpaste isle of the drug
store).>
My BW tank with the three F8s seems to be getting worse and I just don't think I
can see any more of my fish suffer so. I talked to a friend of mine at the pet
store and he told me that there are all sorts of strains of ick, and that all
medicine might not kill that strain.
<There is FW "ich" (Ichthyophthirius multifilius) & SW "whitespot" (Cryptocaryon
irritans), with similar habits to freshwater ich.>
I do not understand how ick could be living in my BW tank with the
temp being 80, and the hydrometer reading at .006 - .008.
<You could be making the strain resistant to meds, with all the different meds
you are using, for not a long enough time.>
So to sum it up I have a 40 gal tank with 2 scats, 2 knight gobies, 1 GS
puffer, 3 F8s, 2 butterfly gobies, 5 Bumblebee gobies, 2 glass fish and 2 black
Mollies.
<Waaaay overstocked! With that kind of overstocking there is always going to be
constant stress & lowered immune systems--no chance of fighting disease at all
in there.>
The 3 F8s are steadily getting worse and I am sure my fish are stressed from
constant 24hr water changes along with new doses of ick medicine.
<Water changes are the very best thing you can be doing right now. Here is an
article on Treating Puffers with Ich:
http://www.thepufferforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9 >
My 16 gallon tank has 2 Z puffers and 2 white mollies COVERED with ick. I do
understand that it takes more than 3 days to clear up ick but I have had ick in
the past in another tank.
<The parasite have a greater hold on scaleless fish.>
I have - a FW 40 gal and after 3 days the ick has always maintained the same
appearance or gotten a bit better. So, if you are wondering why I have not
waited before trying a new med is because every day, even with the ick medicine
the puffers have gotten steadily worse. As of now I have put the carbon back in
the tank and am going to try a new medicine called Super Ick Cure, by Aquarium
pharmaceuticals Inc. I am still debating as whether to do another 20% water
change before attempting this. I feel that the more water I take out and put
in, the more stressed the puffers get. My Z puffers are suffering so, I know
that I cannot watch any more of my fish get that bad so please, if you have any
answers on how to get this under control - PLEASE write back. If I have to
watch my F8s suffer like the Z puffers, I don't think I'll be able deal with
having any more fish. :(((((
<I understand your affection for these wonderful fish! I'm afraid your tanks
are in trouble with all the fish you have in there. Please read the links I
have given you. You can also add Melafix to help with the fin rot--caused by
the parasite eating off the fish. Look through the other articles on the
species you have & consider many larger tanks for all your fish--if they make
it. For now, leave the meds alone, heat & water changes, water changes, water
changes. Be sure it is the same temp & use Prime to dechlor. ~PP>
Kathleen
Figure 8's with Ick 2/10/06
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
I just lost a figure out to Ick a few days ago, and I got two more that I set
up in a separate tank until I completely get the other one clean. My two new
ones now are starting to get Ick and I tried the Ick Cure (blue stuff) on the
last guy and it did NOTHING. I noticed the pet store I work in carries a
medicine for ornamental fish that is suppose to kill all parasites and Ick,
would that be a good thing to try?...if not what should I do because I
don't want to loose another puffer, especially not within a week of buying the
2 new ones?
<http://www.thepufferforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9 ~PP>
Treating Puffers with Ich 1/26/06
I recently bought 2 Green spotted and 2 Fig 8 puffers. The 4 of them share
a 2ft brackish water aquarium (salinity's around 0.008).
<Wow, sounds way too small for all 4 of these fish. What is that around 15-20
gallons? I'd either return 1 F8 & the GSPs, or get 2 larger tanks. Even if that
tank is 20 gal, you should keep 1 F8 in 15g & 10g for every one added. GSPs are
going to grow up to be too large & aggressive to keep with F8s. They also
require much higher salinities--even marine conditions as adults. F8s are best
kept at a SG of around 1.005, for life.>
They're all eating and all seems to be fine but one Fig 8 has developed a few
tiny white spots on its tail & fins (looks almost like tiny air-bubbles).
<Sounds like it should a parasite called Ichthyophthirius multifilius (ich for
short). Here is a safe, non-medicinal treatment for it:
http://www.thepufferforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9
I am actually surprised they would have it though, if the SG is as high as
1.008. Do you think it could just be bubbles?>
I don't want to fiddle with them unnecessarily but they're an important part of
our lives now and I'd hate anything to happen to them, especially as a result of
ignorance (and a reliable source of information of puffers in South Africa is
limited - to be polite).
<Here's a huge source of information on puffers for you:
www.thepufferforum.com Excellent articles on your puffers in The Library at
that site.>
Do you reckon it's a disease and if so, what's the best way to treat the little
guy?
Any advice you could offer would be greatly appreciated.
<Check out the info I've given you & see ya at TPF! ~PP>
Thanks, Adrian
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