FAQs on Pangasiid
Cats, Mainly the
Iridescent/ID "Shark"...
Compatibility
Related Articles: Pangasiid Catfishes,
Related FAQs: Pangasiid Catfishes 1, Pangasiid Catfishes 2, & FAQs on:
Pangasiid Catfishes Identification,
Pangasiid Catfishes Behavior,
Pangasiid Catfishes
Stocking/Selection, Pangasiid
Catfishes Systems, Pangasiid
Catfishes Feeding, Pangasiid
Catfishes Disease/Health, Pangasiid Catfishes
Reproduction,
Related Catfish FAQs: Identification, Behavior, Compatibility, Selection, Systems, Feeding, Disease, Reproduction, Minnow Sharks
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Question
Can I keep a Pangasius shark with Koi? 3/8/19
<Theoretically, yes. But in practice it will be very difficult.
Pangasius Shark get to over 100 cm in length. They are truly massive
fish. So you'd need a huge aquarium (thousands of litres) and more
likely, a pond. You would also want to keep temperatures moderate,
around 22-24 degrees C suiting both the Pangasius and the Koi. In the
tropics it would be possible to keep specimens of similar size together
in a pond. But big Pangasius would view smaller Koi as food, and you
also have to work around their very
different diets, Koi being herbivores and Pangasius more omnivores,
though both should thrive on good quality floating pellets. Finally,
Pangasius are nervous, highly active, even migratory fish that normally
live in groups that swim up and down rivers. It's very hard to keep a
singleton happy for any length of time, and they usually end up damaging
themselves (often their eyes) when they panic. Again, a large, circular
pond would be ideal for a group of both species, but it's hard to
justify keeping a single
Pangasius in an aquarium or small pond.>
Thank you.
<You're welcome. Neale.>
Video of BGK 10/29/15
Here's another longer video. Hope it helps, i had to add it to DropBox as its
too big to email
Thanks again
https://www.dropbox.com/s/nr7x1tmm0aa43li/20151028_205504.mp4?dl=0
<See this. B>
BGK - hole in side of belly 10/29/15
Hi hun,
Firstly I would like to say thank you for all the amazing info on your website
about BGK'S. You are one of very few sites that will help with these fish and I
have learned a lot about what they need from you.
I have had this tank about 15 month now and the BGK'S about 7 month. They are in
a 120lt corner tank with not many other fish. (I know this isn't big enough for
adult size I'm getting a bigger tank at Xmas ��)
I do a 45lt water change/gravel/filter clean every week and a 50% every few
month
<Good>
Tank contains
2 BGK's (I think male 4" long & female 6" long)
<May be fighting>
2 mollies
3 guppies (won't be getting more because of BGK'S, had these since
beginning)
<Am surprised the Knives haven't eaten these livebearers>
1 Pangasius catfish 3" long
<Trouble.... See WWM Re... Remove>
2 marble Pleco (male 5" & baby 2")(Were sold as clowns but their not)
<Mmm; need to know the species; this too could be an issue>
Temp 26°
PH 7.2
NO3 10ppm
NO2 0ppm
GH 180ppm or 8°d (two different test strips)
KH 60ppm or 6°d (two different test strips
CL2 0
Tank has two airstones and strong filter which I have positioned at the top of
the tank to create a small waterfall/current for the BGK'S. Lighting is 9am till
9pm and its a dim blue spectrum bulb. They have 3 ceramic pots, 3 coconut
shells, two plastic tubes and 2 caves I made from aquarium rocks as well as some
bogwood. No live/plastic plants.
Fed on frozen bloodworm & Pleco/catfish pellets. 2 cubes a day one morning and
one at night after lights out.
Now to the problem...
They both settled in fine and will eat bloodworm from hand and come out in the
day. They get along fine together and seam to play with each other rather than
fight (I may be wrong but it doesn't look nasty)
Yesterday I'd not seen the big female for a while which is unusual because I
watch the tank a lot, more than TV �� she was hiding up behind the filter which
she does sometimes but then I turned the lights out and she came out.
She has a 4mm hole on her left hand side just a bit further onto her belly next
to her gills. Not it's not red or sore it's white ish but pretty deep and I'm
not sure what it could be. Either it's stabbed itself on the bogwood or the
other BGK has nipped it but the other is much smaller or its a water issue. As
no new fish have been added for over a month. The last were the 2nd baby Pleco
and catfish.
Now I know my water is very hard and I spoke to the LFS last week he's ordering
me some peat pad that goes in and softens the water. He said its ok to use with
BGK's.
<Tis so>
My question is do you think the GH could be the problem and the hole is due to
stress?
<My strong bet is that the hole is due to physical trauma. Most likely
the Pangasiid; but could be the others mentioned>
Apart from the hole and hiding more than usual she is fine and eating/swimming
as normal. She's done a bit of
rubbing on that side but that's it. The other BGK is fine. How would you go
about treatment?
<Move the Catfish... if more damage, separate the Apteronotids>
I don't want to use chemicals unless absolutely necessary but I want to help my
fish ��
UPDATE - didn't send this straight away as I had no photo to send. I have just
got a short video and you can just see the white 4mm-5mm hole. I did a 45lt
water change/clean again and the BGK seams fine still. The hole seams to be
heeling it's not as open as it was before so I am leaning more to injury than
illness. I will send the video in another email now as it's too
big to add to this (stupid phone)
Thank you in advance for any reply
Sammie xx
<DO be a keen observer here.... some one in your system is beating on this fish.
Bob Fenner>
re: BGK - hole in side of belly.... Pangasius incomp....
10/30/15
Thank you for the quick response hun. Will have a look about the catfish now
didn't think there would be an issue with the two together
<Do you have any idea of how large and aggressive that swai cat gets?
Please, READ>
but as I'm getting a larger tank soon I'll have space to separate them. I watch
the tank a lot so ill turn the lights off and see how they are in the dark.
Everything seams to leave the BGK'S alone because if they don't they'll get
nipped. Even the big marble Pleco (Colin) unless he's stabbed it with a fin.
What tank mates would you recommend with BGK'S?
<.... this is also archived on WWM>
Obviously bigger fish to avoid bullying. The BGK at 6" is the biggest in the
tank but the 5" marble is stocky.
Someone else said I was lucky they hadn't eaten the 3 guppies, they've had a few
small ones but these 3 keep away somehow. I'll move them to my other tank ��
Thanks again
<W. B>
Pangasius Seriously Attacked (RMF, feel free to help solve
this whodunit!) 4/7/14
Greetings WetWebMedia, I have a terrible account to report. I recently
added another Pangasius to my 2000g reservoir filtered by a 450g
aquaponic grow bed. Currently housed are two pairs of Aulonocara cichlids
(10in), three pairs of blue tilapia (Oreochromis aureus, 12in), four
Pangasius (12-14in), three Pimelodus blochii(12-14in) and a recently
introduced albino channel catfish (12in), all fish healthy.
<Quite the mix of tankbusters there!>
I had just quarantined this new Pangasius (that was given to me, came
from a 55g aquarium) for six weeks, fish was feeding nicely and I
decided to release him into 2000g res. All seemed well. First 24hrs I
noticed he was swimming faster than normal, quick circles around
pond(quick even for Pangasius) but I saw no other signs of aggression.
Next day, poor fish is missing both eyes, completely empty. Needless to
say I was horrified.
<I bet. Would tend to lean towards physical damage as the usual reason
for Pangasius losing their eyes. But in this case, to lose both
overnight is really unusual; more usual to see damage accumulating over
time, starting with scratches to the cornea and working onwards from
there over days, weeks, months.>
The fish looked OK aside from missing eyes, believe it or not, swimming
straight, no other tank mates bothering him.
<Indeed; these fish come from murky rivers, and likely don't rely on
their eyes much.>
I did see a couple of very small, cichlid looking bites out of tail.
I've never seen aggression from any of these fish. I have smaller and
larger Pangasius in there and haven't seen any conflicts. I do
understand as my pond fills up, the territorial aggression builds but
this was unexpected.
Although the cichlid and tilapia are spawning, I'm not sure who to blame
for this.
<Either cichlid is possible, with Oreochromis being perhaps the more
likely, Aulonocara generally being fairly peaceful fish.>
Surrounding and within the eye socket the flesh is clean, no little bite
marks. I'm suspecting a catfish (channel or Pimelodus) did this, but I
have no experience in this situation.
<Both these catfish are relatively mellow, if predatory, and shouldn't
really cause any harm to tankmates of similar size. That said, the
Channel Cat in particular is an extremely powerful fish able to do
damage if it wants.>
Who do you guys think would be the likely suspect?
<Really hard to say. Cichlids are "intelligent" warriors that go for the
eyes when defending their territories -- Loiselle tells tales of
Apistogramma blinding Corydoras doing precisely this. Catfish fighting
amongst themselves tend to be more hit-and-miss, scratching each other's
flanks, shredding fins, and so on. So in my opinion, I'd look at the
Oreochromis. That said, I've kept three different Tilapiine species (S.
mossambicus, O. niloticus and T. rendalli) in mixed species set ups, and
given space, not found them especially nasty. I haven't kept Oreochromis
aureus though, so don't speak from experience in this instance.>
I now have the injured fish separated back into a quarantine tank. Do
you think this fish should be euthanised?
<I would see if it can feed normally; if it can, then maybe see what
happens for a few weeks, then decide. But otherwise yes, if it can't
feed and can't compete with the others at feeding time, it probably will
need to be destroyed humanely.>
Thanks for your time and expertise. Aloha Brandon
<Most welcome, Neale.>
Pond Fish Question. Colossoma beh., Pangasius comp.
3/22/14
Aloha WetWebMedia crew, Thanks in advance for your help. I've recently
been given 4 Pacu approx. 8 inches in length.
<Aye ya... you know these Colossoma sp. will get much larger?>
They seem relatively healthy ,although they have been housed in 75gal
aquarium(these are terrible aquarium fish for the record) . Hopefully
they are not stunted. I was told by the previous owner they are less
than a year old. These fish managed to crack their glass lid and the
owner was concerned about them separating the seams of his aquarium. I'm
currently housing these Pacu in a 350gal quarantine tank filtered by an
aquaponic grow bed. I've been feeding these guys Hikari cichlid pellets,
algae wafers, duckweed, red bell peppers, peas, carrots, Asian spinach
and etc.
I have a few aquaponic ponds on my property, so people always end up
giving me their tank busters. I currently house a few Pangasius,
Pimelodus clarki and channel catfish. So these Pacu will end up in a
1800gal reservoir, all to themselves(if you have any
suggestions on tank mates let me know). My question to you is, I've
noticed red gravel showing up in my tank.(of course they came from a
tank with red gravel) I know these fish are defecating or throwing up
this gravel. It has been going on for a couple weeks, and is getting to
be less. Have you heard of this and should I been concerned? The fish do
seem healthy with big appetites(water parameters are in check).
<Have heard of this... passing of ingested materials... these animals
chew off the pericarp of seeds in the wild... are important dispersers
of such seeds... from swallowing, defecating later>
My second question is, I've also been given another Pangasius catfish.
This fish is about 5in in length. I'm very familiar with the
requirements of these fish, as I currently house Pangasius from 24in to
about 12in in a 2000gal aquaponic res. I wanted to house this fish in a
75gal aquarium, until he puts on some size. His fins looked a little
worn, so I wanted to monitor that. Then once healthy, I was planning to
release him with the other Pangasius. My only concern is my
aquarium(filtered by a HOB Aquaclear 110 and weekly 50% water changes, I
probably will add a trickle filter if Pangasius goes in) holds a giant
Gourami(female) about 5 inches in length.
Do you think there will be problems with Gourami aggression towards
Pangasius. I really appreciate all the great info and keep up the good
work. Thanks Brandon
<These two should get along fine together. Bob Fenner>
Tank troubles,
iatrogenic 3/14/12
Hello, I was given a tank a couple of years ago with a group of fish
including 1 now 10inch id shark
<Grows to a few feet... why don't you, others search, as
directed, on WWM ahead of writing us?>
(he was alot
<No such word>
smaller when i got the tank) 4 Tetras and a large Pleco 8 inches
. I wasn't told anything about fish keeping just keep the
temperature right do water changes watch out for signs of infection
(knowing what i do now i wish i did my research earlier).
<Honest>
My tank is 4ft by 2ft by 1ft. Since i upgraded to this
tank. A few problems have occurred. Iv never had disease in the
tank. In all the time i had it, However i decided to buy some new
tetras and then the problems seem to start (fin rot).
<Environmental...>
Also my Pleco fights with my Id shark and in diving
around the tank damaged the end of his two front fins very
slightly. It appeared to be heeling very well so i didn't put
any treatments in the tank as i was already treating for the fin rot
and i didn't want to add more chemicals after reading the id shark
having no scales is very sensitive to treatments
<Ahh!>
and i don't own a hospital tank. The end of the fin healed over
but after some days turned red on the end of both fins. Also he seems
to be covered in tiny air bubbles. I'm not sure if this is
normal.
<Not; again, env.>
Apart from this he eats like a horse, Holds his fins out and dances for
me still and is showing no other signs of disease. After seeing the red
develop on his 2 fin tips i treated the tank with anti bacterial for
ulcers and infections and so on (what the pet store advised). I cant
get rid of the red in his 2 fin tips,Im presuming it is an
infection.
<READ here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/PangCatDisF.htm
and all the linked files above; compatibility>
After treating him twice no change i feel stuck not knowing what to do
help please!
<... help yourself>
Also i added two albino red fin sharks to the tank last
week just over an inch long
<Likely will be inhaled, killed by the Pangasiid>
(since i have the tetras who are small i didn't see a problem with the
bigger fish eating them he leaves everyone alone mostly) All was great
they seem to hide alot but i read that was normal. Last night before i
went to bed they were both swimming around happily playing, In the
morning i woke up and found one of the small albino sharks dead. The
only sign of possible death i can see is bleeding under the skin where
i think the heart is only no where else. His colours are still bright a
beautiful like before. I'm worried something is going on in the tank
now. I love my 2 large fish alot i don't want anything to happen with
them. Also i never knew much about water testing and when i read online
or go to the pet store im abit overwhelmed with so many different
things with expensive prices! i don't have alot of money, Please can you
advise me of the main and most important tests i need to carry out to
determine what is going on in my tank and tips how to treat my Pleco
and save my tank before all hell breaks lose and everyone dies. Thank
you for your time
<Learn to/use the search tool, indices on WWM, and run your writing
through a spell- and grammar checker before sending to us if writing
again. Bob Fenner>
Re: Tank troubles. Why we eat the rude
3/14/12
Thank you for your rude reply, Firstly I know exactly how big the
catfish grows that's why I didn't search this.. I didn't
even ask you for the size so not sure why you needed to be rude there. I
was nervous about posting anywhere else in fear of a rude response and
I find it hard to use your site and read through things to find what I
need unless sent there by Google!. So I thought it would be better to
describe my tank and get the right advice and ask you my self! Thanks
for the English lesson, I wont be writing your site again for advice :)
not sure why you linked me to the Pangasiid page i have already been
there a million times. It is the Pleco who is sick not the id
shark as I said in my previous email to you. Have a nice
day!
<And you>
Stress or not happy with food? Pangasiid incomp., FW stkg.
period/hex tanks 1/24/10
I just revamped my tropical tank.
<Oh?>
New (plastic) plants, new decorations and reintroduced all the fish at
the same time in an effort to reduce stress. I have provided as many
hiding places as possible for my fish.
<Sounds promising.>
It's a 55-gallon hex tank,
<Do be aware these are generally not good choices, and in terms of
stocking a hexagonal aquarium of 55 gallons will only hold the same
number of fish as, say, a 30 gallon rectangular one. Why? Because of
surface are to volume ratio. A hexagonal tank this size has the same
volume but lower surface area than a 55 gallon rectangular one. Less
oxygen can dissolve into the water, and less CO2 can diffuse out. I
don't recommend hexagonal, spherical or any other shaped aquarium
other than a low, long rectangle. Sometimes, old school is the
best!>
I keep the water at 78 degrees and have a Penguin filter that I keep
two cartridges in at all times. (Done to increase the amount of carbon
to help keep the water clear.)
<Actually, carbon only removes dissolved organic chemicals, the
stuff that makes water tinted yellow over time. It has zero benefit in
terms of removing solid particles such as silt that make water cloudy.
Indeed, it's rather better to take out the carbon and replace with
filter floss if silty water is a problem. In most freshwater tanks,
carbon is redundant.
Manufacturers sell the stuff happily, given how massively overpriced it
is, but me, I prefer to save my pennies.>
The water is still a little cloudy from the water change I did
yesterday, but it's clearing up as expected.
<Indeed.>
In the tank we have a Plecostomus (about four to five inches in length
- the giant one we traded in because I didn't need both of them in
the tank),
<Has no place in a tank this size/shape.>
two small Cory catfish and an incandescent shark.
<Corydoras should be in groups of 5+ specimens of each species, and
an Iridescent Shark (Pangasius hypophthalmus) has absolutely no place
in this aquarium. Given its maximum length is well over 120 cm (more
than 4 feet)
I'd strongly argue this fish shouldn't even be in the fish
trade. Sure, most specimens in aquaria don't get that big.
That's because they usually end up dead first. But the lucky
survivors still get to a good 60 cm (2 feet) or more in length, and
public aquaria really are fed up with taking unwanted specimens. On top
of that, this is a schooling, riverine species that needs to be kept in
groups in a spacious aquarium. In small tanks -- and yours is TINY by
the standards of the species -- this fish ends up throwing itself
against the glass, damaging its eyes. Many, MANY specimens are blind
precisely because of this (and needless to say, with a beaten up head
and cloudy eyes, pretty ugly looking as well).>
Obviously those are our cleaner fish.
<NO such beast. If you imagine any fish, ANY FISH, will make an
aquarium cleaner, it's time to do some reading. Think about it.
Adding fish adds the amount of food you need to add. That fish
defecates, meaning there's more silt. That fish excretes ammonia,
so there's more work for the biological filter. That ammonia
becomes nitrite and then nitrate, feeding algae. So the tank becomes
more algae-ridden. In every possible way, adding fish makes tanks
dirtier. End of story.>
The rest of the tank holds two Mickey Mouse platys, two sunset platys,
one female Betta, one Dalmatian molly and five tetras.
<Finally, some fish that make sense. I'd argue the Molly is
better in a community where adding marine salt mix is an option, but
I'll let that pass for now. These are small fish that would be
happy in a tank your size and shape.>
So far it seems like everyone gets along,
<So far...>
though I admit my female Betta is a little ticked off since she used to
rule the roost (it used to just be her, the Corys and the Pleco). But
she's doing pretty well, she just sort of chases the others around
checking them out, but I haven't noticed any aggressive behavior on
her part.
<Fine.>
I noticed today when I fed them, that the platys would take the food in
their mouths and then immediately spit it back out. It's tropical
flakes, it's what the people at the pet store said to feed them.
(Which, from what I've seen on your site isn't the right thing
to be feeding them.)
<Indeed. While flakes are fine up to a point, these are herbivores,
and their diet should include as a staple Spirulina flake, plus things
liked cooked peas and Sushi Nori. It won't kill them giving them
flake, but offer them the green foods too. Usually, tetras ignore
Spirulina flake, but catfish happily eat it. Indeed, Corydoras eat a
lot of algae in the wild.>
Are they spitting it out because they don't like the food, or is it
because they are still stressed after the water change I did
yesterday?
<Unlikely because they're "unhappy" about the water
change, but check water quality. If you have added a bunch of fish all
at once, or were too aggressive when it came to cleaning the biological
media in a mature filter, you could have higher than zero ammonia and
nitrite levels. This would explain their odd behaviour. Also check the
flake isn't stale. Open pots last about 6-8 weeks in a dry climate
before they lose their savour.
Don't buy huge pots expecting them to last all year. If you must,
decant small portions from a big tub into a small pot, and store the
big tub in an airtight container somewhere cool and dry (just like
you'd do with any dried human food, like cereal). Next up, offer a
variety. Fish get as fed up with the same thing every day as you would.
Once a week offer live brine shrimps or wet-frozen bloodworms. Finely
chopped (raw) fish fillet or seafood is good too. Don't add
anything from warm blooded animals though:
no meat, no chicken, and no dairy. While fish will often eat these
things, with a very few exceptions, in the long term such foods cause
problems.
Shredded beef heart and hard boiled egg yolk are the two main
exceptions. On the other hand, all sorts of plants foods can be tried,
including softened vegetables like courgette, spinach, lettuce and
cucumber.>
Should I worry - or are they actually getting some of the food despite
some of it coming back out?
<If it is still occurring within a couple days, yes, be
concerned.
Certainly check water quality now. Platies need hard, basic water (10+
degrees dH, pH 7.5-8) with 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite. They actually
prefer slightly cool water, around 22-25 C. Do review the needs of fish
prior to purchase, and choose species with similar
requirements.>
They all swim all over the tank (except for the molly, she hangs out
near the top, and she's pregnant, so I'm not surprised by this
behavior)
<Could be unhappy; review "the Shimmies" and be aware of
the VERY specific needs Mollies have for long term health.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/mollies.htm
Most folks keep 'em wrong, and so end up with sick Mollies.>
- so I think they are all healthy. I'd just like to head off any
potential problems to keep them from getting sick in the future.
I'm an amateur, so I don't know everything, but I'm trying
to do what's best for the fish ... I hate to see animals suffer, be
they marine or not!
<Quite right! I applaud your philosophy here.>
Thanks for the help!
Trysh
<Happy to be of help. Good luck, Neale.>
Re: Stress or not happy with food?
Neale, thanks for the advice.
<Pleasure.>
Wow, I thought I was doing better ... but I guess I still have a lot to
learn!!
<As do we all.>
I would prefer a rectangular tank, but I inherited the 55-gallon hex
and you know, when we're talking a free setup, you take what you
can get.
<Indeed. But it's also true that if you do inherit a tank like
this, you understand the limitations, and choose fish
accordingly.>
I would like to clarify one thing - the shark is an incandescent shark
catfish. It's not the iridescent shark you referred to. :)
<Exactly the same fish. Pangasius hypophthalmus. Google the Latin
name, and take a look. Indeed, Wikipedia has a photo of this fish
alongside the common name you used.
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Iridescent_Shark_Catfish.jpg
I'm not a big fan of common names for precisely this problem. With
a Latin name, you know where you stand. With common names, who knows
what kind of fish is being sold!>
I'm not that inhumane!
<Most folks aren't inhumane deliberately... but the nature of
the fishkeeping hobby is that the variety of species on sale far
exceeds the abilities of most aquarists to keep them properly.>
But, as you so aptly pointed out, the catfish and Pleco aren't
necessary...
<Quite.>
Even so, thanks for the help. I'll cook up some peas with dinner
and offer those to my patties and see if that helps.
<Hope this works. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Stress or not happy with food?
Stupid petstore guy! ARGH :) I'm sure you hear that a lot.
<Unfortunately, yes. What can I say? I try my best, but there's
just one of me, and fifteen million bozos out there. Cheers,
Neale.>
Can I put a Iridescent Shark and a Jack Dempsey
together? <<BobF's go>>
3/28/09
For a while... I was searching the web and found your site and it
seemed like you guys knew what you were talking about. So I wanted to
ask you a question. I have a 75 gallon tank right now and I have a 4
inch Jack Dempsey and a 6 inch Iridescent Shark, and I was wondering if
my Jack Dempsey would pick on my Iridescent Shark or if they would be
fine. (I am aware that that Iridescent Sharks get quite big and once it
grows too big for the tank I will get a larger one. I know that my Jack
will get bigger too.)
<Mmm, in this sized volume, starting these two at the sizes you
mention, I do think you won't have troubles for a while... the Jack
Dempsey will likely leave the catfish alone... and depending on your
foods, feeding, the "shark" may not grow so large as to
ingest the cichlid for a year or more. Bob Fenner>
Can I put a Iridescent Shark and a Jack Dempsey together?
<<Now Neale>> 3/28/09
I was searching the web and found your site and it seemed like you guys
knew what you were talking about.
<Modesty forbids...>
So I wanted to ask you a question. I have a 75 gallon tank right now
and I have a 4 inch Jack Dempsey and a 6 inch Iridescent Shark, and I
was wondering if my Jack Dempsey would pick on my Iridescent Shark or
if they would be fine.
<Wouldn't be my idea of a marriage made in heaven. JDs are
territorial, and while they generally ignore open water schooling fish
too big to eat, such as barbs, anything more threatening is likely to
be eyed with suspicion. Iridescent Shark by contrast are
*schooling* fish and singletons are extremely nervous. As this fish
matures it's going to feel steadily more skittish, and it's a
sad fact most Iridescent Sharks bash their heads in at some point. You
hardly ever see any specimens reared by home aquarists that have
unmarked heads or eyes.>
(I am aware that that Iridescent Sharks get quite big and once it grows
too big for the tank I will get a larger one. I know that my Jack will
get bigger too.)
<Wild JDs will get to about 20 cm, though that's uncommon
anymore given the amount of inbreeding. So unless you have a wild fish,
15, 18 cm seems to be typical. Iridescent Sharks by contrast do get
massive. Even in aquaria they routinely top 60 cm, and 90 cm specimens
are not uncommon. Wild fish supposedly get to well over a metre.
Cheers, Neale.>
Bottom feeder suggestions for tanks (Oh no, Pangasianodon;
run, run!) 2/11/09 Hello WWM crew, <Hi,> In my 30 gallon
hexagon, I have 2 Kribensis cichlids. I'd like to add maybe 2-3
fish that are middle to top level dwellers. <With Kribs? Most
anything that stays at the top should work. Danios are the obvious
option, but lack of swimming space may limit things. The problem here
is that hexagon tanks are notoriously poor in terms of fish stocking
capacity. They have a terrible surface area to volume ratio, meaning
little oxygen diffuses in compared to the standard broad but shallow
rectangle. You've also got less swimming space, so while Danios
would be great in a 30 gal. rectangle, they're less happy in a deep
but narrow hexagon. All things considered, I'd consider the smaller
Danios like Zebras and Pearls, or alternatively White Cloud Mountain
Minnows, in both cases assuming the temperature is no higher than 25 C
(77 F), since neither likes super-hot water. (Nor do the Kribs, by the
way.) Alternatively, you could go for surface swimmers that don't
move about much, for example Silver Hatchets or even a single African
Butterflyfish.> Can you recommend a bottom dweller that's tough
enough to handle the cichlids but efficient in eating uneaten food? No
matter how careful I am with trying not to overfeed, my cichlids are
not interested in eating much. <Then feed less! Even if you add
fish, that uneaten food gets turned into ammonia, and then into
nitrite, and ultimately nitrate. Ammonia and nitrite are immediate
killers, but your filter should remove them just fine. Nitrate is an
insidious killer, and if you skip water changes for a couple of weeks,
nitrate levels can easily get high enough to kill cichlids. Seriously,
cichlids (including "hardy" Kribs) are sensitive to levels
above 20 mg/l, so handling uneaten food isn't the goal, keeping
excess food out is. Personally, I'd avoid catfish with Kribs: Kribs
are pretty vicious when defending their territories, and can damage
things like Corydoras (biting out there eyes!). Again, you have the
problem of a poor surface to volume ratio, meaning that there's
less "bottom" in this tank than would be the case with a 30
gal. rectangular tank. As should be apparent, while hexagonal tanks
might look nifty, they're actually pretty seriously compromised in
terms of keeping fish. My best suggestion would be to go with some of
the snails, like Nerites or Tylomelania, that don't breed much/at
all in aquaria, or even shrimps like Cherry Shrimps. These will all be
ignored by the Kribs, and will help eat algae, uneaten food, etc., up
to a point at least.> My 30 long tank has 20 assorted platys,
swordtails and mollies. I'd like to add a few Corydoras in this
tank but I'm already overcrowded. I use a Penguin 350 filter and no
salt in this tank so would this be okay? <I'd not add Corydoras
to this system. I like the fact you've given these fish space, and
by choosing livebearers, you reserve the option to add marine salt mix
at, say, 3 grammes per litre, if the Mollies start getting sick (as
they often do in busy freshwater tanks). If you really must add
something, consider making the water slightly brackish and getting
something like Knight Gobies. Not only are these attractive fish,
they're very efficient predators that will keep the numbers of
livebearer fry down!> I have 4 iridescent sharks, 2 parrot cichlids,
3 black skirt tetras, 1 kisser and 1 Danio in my 55 gallon tank. Can I
add a small Pleco, which one? <You are MASSIVELY overstocked
already. Do you have any idea how big those Iridescent Shark Catfish
will get? Do take a look at the Fishbase page for Pangasianodon
hypophthalmus, here: http://www.fishbase.org/Summary/SpeciesSummary.php?id=14154
http://www.fishbase.org/Photos/ThumbnailsSummary.php?ID=14154
See the fishes these chaps are holding in the photos? That's your
catfish. While 130 cm (4 foot) specimens are not common in aquaria (!)
they can and will reach about half that size, and astonishingly
quickly. I simply cannot stress this strongly enough: these aren't
fish for the home aquarium, and the majority of specimens end up having
to be killed or given away to zoos (who don't really want them).
For what it's worth, most any common Plec species, e.g.,
Pterygoplichthys multiradiatus, would be fine in a 55 gallon tank,
assuming strong filtration and regular water changes. Do understand
that the common Plecs of the hobby, Pterygoplichthys spp., get to at
least 45 cm (18 inches) within 3-4 years, and are incredibly messy
vegetarians. They need filters rated at not less than 6 times the
volume of the tank per hour (i.e., at least 330 gallons per hour in
your case) and big (50%) water changes every week or so. Otherwise your
aquarium will end up looking extremely murky.> Thank in advance for
your help. Audra <Happy to help. Neale.>
Re: Bottom feeder suggestions for tanks (Oh no,
Pangasianodon; run, run!) 2/11/09 Hi Neale, <Audra,> I
agree with you about the 30 hexagon, I only bought it because it looked
good. It took me a long time to decide what to put in it and my Kribs
are already spawning after being in the tank for a week. I'll
consider the Zebra Danios. <Cool.> In the 30 long, my mollies
have done well without salt, so I won't be venturing into brackish
water for them at this time. <Fine. But I'd still recommend
keeping them with tankmates that at least allow you the option of using
a therapeutic dose of marine salt mix, even if you don't actually
go fully brackish. Hence, salt-tolerant livebearers and killifish good,
soft water catfish and tetras bad.> Thanks for the pictures on the
sharks. I nearly had a coronary (kidding). But I've known about
their size for a while now. Two of my iridescent sharks are about 10
yrs old now and 7 in. long, the other two about 5 yrs old and 4 in.
long. <Hmm... still quite small. May well be one of the other
Pangasiid species. None make great aquarium fish, though, even
"tiddlers" like yours. Nervous, skittish animals prone to
damaging their eyes, in my experience.> If I had done my research
years ago, I would never have bought them, but they are my favorites.
<They are certainly nice fish. Just difficult to house. Yours have
done extremely well to have lived such a long time. By NO means the
usual thing.> I plan to move the tetras, kisser and Danio out once
the cichlids get bigger, so my sharks will have more room. My dream
tank is a 110 gallon for them but this will have to wait.
<Indeed.> I do 3-20% water changes a week on each tank so this
helps keep things in order. I love Corys but I don't have an
existing set-up where they could fit in. <Tell me about. My poor
Peppered Catfish get attacked or nipped or chased wherever I seem to
put them.> Thanks for all the suggestions Neale. Audra <Cheers,
Neale.>
Re: Tank mates prob. (Oh no, not Pangasius
hypophthalmus!) 12/25/08 Hello dear Neale, I hope you
will be fine there. Neale I want your help that I have 2 iridescent
sharks and 2 giant Gouramis in 90 gallon right now. <Hello Ali.
I'd be a lot more "fine" if my time wasn't being
wasted. I don't mind offering advice, but when it's ignored,
and you come back for more advice, that isn't really very good for
my ego! Let me be 100% crystal clear on this. You have NO BUSINESS at
all keeping Iridescent Shark catfish (Pangasius hypophthalmus).
Firstly, they are SCHOOLING fish. Two specimens is not a school; you
need groups of 5 or more. Next, they get to 130 cm (over 4 feet) long
and can weigh over 40 kilos (100 lb.). There is NO WAY you have the
space to keep such large fish. Most specimens damage themselves in
aquaria because they cannot handle things like glass walls. They become
blind for example, because they bump their eyes into things. Giant
Gouramis (Osphronemus spp.) are not much smaller, typically around 60
cm in length and a weight of 9 kg (about 20 lb.). Individuals can be
very territorial towards others of their species, and I suspect the two
specimens you have will not get along once mature.> But Neale I am
very interested to keep 2 black ghost knife and 2 parrot fish with
them. <Get rid of the Pangasius hypophthalmus first. Then worry
about maintaining good water quality for six months. Understand
Apteronotus albifrons will die at the first sniff of ammonia and
nitrite, and will not tolerate pH changes. So keep testing water
quality and chemistry in your tank, and if it is ABSOLUTELY perfect
every single week from here to June, then maybe think about a
Knifefish. Otherwise, leave them alone!> Can they live happy and
calm with each other in one 90gallon tank? <No.> Thank you, Ali
<Ali, please understand the best I can do is to prevent you making
mistakes. In this case, I've said repeatedly that Pangasius
hypophthalmus is NOT a fish you (or ANYONE ELSE) should keep as a pet.
It is a food fish, not an aquarium fish! Merry Christmas,
Neale.>
Re: Tank mates prob. (Oh no, not Pangasius
hypophthalmus!) 12/25/08 Hello dear Neale, I am sorry I
didn't mean to hurt you; I always listen to your advice and did
whatever you said. <Ah, that's the best Christmas present!> I
have returned the iridescent shark and giant Gourami back to the pet
store. <Extremely WISE decision.> Now I am doing what you have
said about maintaining the water condition. Please suggest me any fish
that you think is best, ill introduce them when water condition become
normal. My goldfish are fine now they are doing well. <I would start
with a group of either Bronze or Peppered Corydoras (Corydoras aeneus
or Corydoras paleatus). Get six or more specimens of each species. By
all means keep both! These catfish work EXTREMELY well with Goldfish,
and enjoy the same water temperature. Corydoras will do just fine at
the 22-25 C that Goldfish enjoy. They stay relatively small, are
completely peaceful, and being air-breathers, will not suffer in summer
if the water gets too hot. Another great fish to keep with Goldfish is
the Weather Loach (Misgurnis anguillicaudatus). It gets to about 20 cm,
is great fun, and works well in groups of 3-4 specimens. Giant Danios
(Devario aequipinnatus) are fun with Goldfish, but they are boisterous
and may terrorise fancy Goldfish; they work best with standard
(non-fantail) varieties such as Common Goldfish, Comets and Shubunkins.
Perhaps surprisingly, the Variatus Platy (Xiphophorus variatus) can
work well with Goldfish; it's a herbivore, so will do well on
similar foods. Couple other choices include White Cloud Mountain
minnows (Tanichthys albonubes) and the Green Barb (Barbus
semifasciolatus).> Thank you, Merry Christmas, Ali <Likewise, and
a happy new year to you, too! Cheers, Neale.>
Holes in a Paroon shark. African Cichlid,
Pangasiid incomp. 12/30/06 Hello! I have a Paroon shark
<Pangasius sanitwongsei Smith, 1931... a REALLY big catfish> that
has been in a tank with cichlids for about 5 months now. I had a Moray
Eel <...> for about 3 days and after researching it (should have
done that before I bought it) <Yes> I decided to give to my
cousin's saltwater fish store. In the morning the day I gave him
up, he was belly up in the tank, then when I came home, his head was by
my sharks spot in the tank and it was obvious that they were bitten. I
put medicine in the tank and tried to nurse them to health. It was
apparent one shark would loose <lose> his eye because it was
bloody then just turned black like his skin. It was almost like his
skin grew over the eye. Well my cichlids picked on the
sharks and would bite his eye and his side fin (in front)
<Incompatible...> so I put the shark into my 10 gal feeder fish
<... dismal> tank with some medicine so he could heal in peace.
He has been in the tank for 3 weeks and where his eye was started to
turn pink. Silly me I thought it might be regenerating. Well, now there
are holes where his eye and fin used to be. It appears like its rotting
or something. I have no clue what is going on. Can you help and let me
know what it is and how I can treat him? Thanks! Jennifer Mercer
<What re water quality, testing... Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwdis3setsfactors.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
FW Minnow Sharks, Pangasiid Catfish Shark... comp.
mostly 6/5/06 Crew: <<Paula. Tom with you.>> I
was reading your information on the different types of sharks/minnows.
Under the Apollo shark it said "best kept singly." Does this
mean only this fish in a small tank or only one of this type of fish
along with others in a tank? <<These fish don't get along
with others of their species or with similar types of fish. Not an
uncommon situation with certain varieties.>> Also, will
tri-color, iridescent, and Apollo sharks get along without fighting in
one tank that holds about 40-50 gallons? <<The Tri-color (Bala)
Shark will quickly outgrow this tank. It's active and fast
requiring lots of swimming room. Scratch the Iridescent Shark from your
list completely. It can reach over three feet in length and
shouldn't be sold to hobbyists. The Apollo Shark will probably see
the Tri-color Shark as an adversary due to the similarities in their
appearances. A 50-gallon tank would probably suffice for the Apollo
Shark, however.>> Thanks for the help. Paula <<Please
continue your research, Paula. I commend you for doing your homework
but there's still much to learn. My best. Tom>>
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