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| FAQs on Guppy Systems
Related Articles: Guppies,
Poeciliids: Guppies, Platies, Swordtails, Mollies
by Neale Monks, Livebearing Fishes
by Bob Fenner,
Related FAQs: Guppies 1,
Guppies 2,
Guppy Identification,
Guppy Behavior,
Guppy Compatibility,
Guppy Selection,
Guppy Feeding,
Guppy Disease, Guppy Reproduction,
Livebearers,
Platies,
Swordtails, Mollies,
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Re: pH (first aquarium; poor decisions; don't listen to mom!)
06/29/09
Will I need a heater?
<Unless you live in lowland Mexico or Trinidad, where Guppies come from,
the answer is yes, you'll need a heater.>
Also at my local Petco, they only sell "male guppies" and "female
guppies".
<Poecilia reticulata.>
I don't think they have Endler's, but would plain guppies be okay in my
tank?
<Personally, I think regular Guppies, Poecilia reticulata, are too big
for a 10 gallon tank. The males are prone to being nippy in such small
tanks, and because of their long fins and generally low level of
hardiness, this often turns into Finrot or worse. So best avoided in
very small tanks, though your retailer I have no doubt at all will
happily sell them to you, and maybe even recommend them for small tanks.
The Endler Guppy, Poecilia wingei, is a much smaller fish, and
consequently better suited to 10 gallon tank. There's an old saying,
"Marry in haste, repent at leisure"; what this means is that if you jump
quickly into doing something because you're impatient, you'll end up
with plenty of time to regret your decision. Ask your retailer to order
in Endler's; if they are even halfway decent, they'll be able to do so.
Male Endler's are very distinctive, being tiny, brightly coloured and
with a characteristic black comma-shaped marking on each
flank. Some unscrupulous retailers may try and push plain regular
Guppies on you telling you they're Endler's; if they don't have the
black comma, they're probably not Endler's! Cheers, Neale.>
Re: pH (first aquarium; poor decisions; don't listen to mom!)
06/29/09
most websites say that 72-about 80 is a good guppy temperature. my water
is 74 F.
<I'm not "most websites", I'm a guy who writes fishkeeping magazines and
books for a living; I have a PhD and a BSc; I know what I'm talking
about.
Yes, WILD guppies will tolerate a broad range of temperatures, but the
Guppies sold in pet shops are fancy Guppies, and these need a steady 25
C/77 F to do well. Buy the damn heater. These are tropical fish, and the
word "tropical" is the clue. Your house will get too cold in winter, and
the Guppies will sicken or die.>
And if I do get a heater what temperature should my water be?
<There's no "if". 25 C/77 F is fine. If you don't want to buy a heater,
then look at some non-tropical fish, perhaps a subtropical Paradisefish
(Macropodus spp.) if you wanted something colourful, though a single
male would terrorise anything else added to a 10 gallon tank. Cheers,
Neale.>
Re: pH (first aquarium; poor decisions; don't listen to
mom!)... A good general FW aquarium book for bday, Xmas? 06/29/09
why will it get too cold in the winter? we heat the house.
<If you heat your house to 25 degrees C (77 F) or higher all year
around, 24 hours a day, then fine. But you don't; keeping a home that
warm would be insanely expensive, hundreds of times more expensive than
an aquarium heater. So can we stop arguing about this now? Seriously.
Guppies and Endler Guppies are both tropical fish, and therefore need to
be kept in tanks with heaters. End of discussion. Now, either decide if
you want to buy a heater or not. If not, don't keep Guppies. It's really
as simple as that. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: pH (first aquarium; poor decisions; don't listen to mom!)
6/30/09
Do you have any recommendations on heaters. I'm not looking to spend
over 30$ and may upgrade to a 20 gal tank so it should fit both thank
sizes. Also what temp. should I set it to?
<I'm sure a little time spent online would help, but otherwise just go
to the aquarium shop, and look at what they have. Do note that most
heaters will say on the boxes what size aquaria they are suitable for.
Get a heater suitable for a 20 gallon tank, and it'll be perfectly safe
in a 10 gallon tank. Unless your aquarium is in a very cold room, a 50
to 75 Watt heater should be ample. As for price, I'm in England, so my
experience won't be terribly helpful, but I'd budget about £15 for
heater in this size range. Avoid suspiciously cheap heaters: these have
a tendency to fail, which causes problems. A good quality heater should
last for many years, maybe ten years or more. Cheers, Neale.>
i got the "submersible aquarium heater" 100 watt
<Sounds a bit big for a 10-20 gallon tank, to be honest. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: pH (first aquarium; poor decisions; don't listen to mom!)
Will it stress out guppies to have a light? 7/9/09
<Not if there are plenty of floating plants or similar to provide shade;
Indian Fern is ideal. No fish likes bright, direct light, and under such
conditions their colours often fade. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: pH (first aquarium; poor
decisions; don't listen to mom!) 7/11/09
I have put 2 male guppies and 1 female in my tank. I
have had them for three days and they are doing fine.
<Feel sorry for the poor female; in mixed sex groups, females should
outnumber males 2 to 1, otherwise the poor females get harassed and
nipped by the amorous males.>
I am feeding them:
Monday: 1 TetraMin tropical flake in the morning. 2 baby shrimp at about
five.
Tuesday: no feeding.
Wednesday: 1 TetraMin tropical flake in the morning and few bloodworms
in the evening.
Thursday: same as Monday.
Friday: no feeding.
Saturday: same as Monday.
Sunday: same as Monday.
Does this seem okay?
<For the cycling stage, yes; but do check the nitrite level once per day
for the first 3-4 weeks. Once nitrite is consistently at zero, you can
add up to 2 small meals per day. Use an algae-based flake food
("herbivore
flake") in preference to tropical fish flake; livebearers are
herbivores, and their diet should reflect this. Cheers, Neale.>
Guppy Help... env. dis./Ammonia, reading 6/20/09
Hi, I am a new fish owner. I recently purchased a 10 gallon tank, and
put 6 guppies in it in hopes of breeding them.
<Mmm, a small volume for this enterprise>
I currently have 2 males and 4 females. I'm convinced some are pregnant.
<A pretty much constant state in healthy Lebistes...>
Not long after having the tank, several fish died. I believe they died
of injured swim bladders
<... not likely>
but I am not sure. I don't think I had the tank set up long enough
before adding them.
<Oh? What of water quality tests, measures?>
But I have had them replaced, and now have the 2 males and 4 females.
Tonight I realized their gills were slightly red, and I am worried about
ammonia poisoning. The ammonia level is slightly higher than it should
be.
<... must be zero, nada, zip>
I am having troubles lowering it.
<Let's stop here... and have you do what you should have done: read:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm
and the linked files above, esp. ammonia. Bob Fenner>
I then added too much aquarium salt
<... not a good idea>
by mistake, but over time, not all at once. My friend suggested doing a
50% water change to help the ammonia reduce and the salt reduce. Are my
fish going to die like the ones before them? What can I do to keep them
alive? I am going to try feeding them less, as I think I may have fed
them too much also. I have a small filter in one corner, a heater that
is set around 80, usually less then that though, and I have a homemade
filter in another corner using an air lift effect, and another homemade
filter intaking water from the tank and pumping it through a filter
cartridge and rocks and back into aquarium. How can I save my fish
Fancy Guppies (salinity, calculations thereof) –
03/02/09
Dear Crew, I am
keeping fancy guppies. I have several ten gallon tanks for breeding them in. I
am using the Jungle six in one test strips and nitrates are 0-20, nitrites are
0-20, hardness is 150+, chlorine is 0 (well water), KH is 180, and PH is between
7.8 and 8.4. These tanks have been set up a
week now. I would like to complete the set up using instant ocean. My question
is: Is there a cooking spoon measure that corresponds with the proper amount of
salt per gallon and if so, what is it. Thanks
for the help. Bill <Hello Bill. There's a
reason we don't recommend weight or volume measurements for adding salt: once a
salt package is opened, it absorbs water from the air, so over time a given
weight or volume of salt actually contains a bit less salt than you think,
because some of that measurement is water, not salt. Once you've added some salt
to the water, you use a hydrometer to test the salinity via a proxy measurement,
density (in this case called specific gravity, or SG for short). For guppies, a
low salinity is ample, around SG 1.003 being perfect, and even a bit less being
more
than adequate. It isn't essential to add salt, but it
does help if you live in a soft water or high nitrate area. Now, a salinity of 6
grammes per litre is roughly SG 1.003 at 25 degrees C, and very conveniently, 6
grammes of salt happens to be about the same as one level teaspoon. So if you're
prepared to use the metric system, estimating the amount of salt couldn't be
easier! Roughly one teaspoon of marine salt mix per litre of water will get
perfect Guppy water! If you absolutely must work in US gallons and ounces,
you'll find my Brack Calc tool flips between both measuring systems as well as
salinity and specific gravity. It's a free application and runs on Macs and
Windows PCs. http://homepage.mac.com/nmonks/Programs/brackcalc.html
Hope this helps, Neale.>
Guppy water chemistry... 11/25/08 Hello
crew, I've been having some problems recently with my
fancy guppies. My problems were NOT, however, related to water
chemistry. I had been using a 50% dose of a Malawi Salt Mix recipe
Dr. Monks had given me that gave me ideal conditions for
livebearers; pH=7.8, KH = 180, GH = 300. Then, due to some health
issues in the tank, I was adding tonic salt in addition to the
Malawi Mix. Dr. Monks suggested that I could perhaps save myself a
step and use Marine Salt Mix to both increase the salinity AND
perfect the water chemistry. So, over the course of the last couple
of days, I've switched to the Marine Salt Mix (Instant Ocean). As I
was changing the water only 25% at a time, I waited until the change
had been "complete" before testing the water chemistry. So here are
the numbers: SG=1.003, pH=7.6, 40<KH>80, GH= I'm not sure. It's not
a color that matches the chart. It's either WAY over 300ppm or I
need some other kind of chart, maybe for saltwater? <You're
JUST using marine salt mix right now? Not adding anything else, like
the Malawi salts? If all you're doing is adding a little marine salt
mix, then the water chemistry should be perfect. Of course, if you
have very hard water out of the tap, the carbonate hardness in the
marine salt mix will add to that hardness. In any case, it shouldn't
cause any problem for Guppies: for them, the harder the better! Your
pH and specific gravity are spot on, so I wouldn't actually worry.>
And now for my question: Should I be adding a small amount of Epsom
Salt and/or Baking Soda to the Marine Salt Mix?
<No.> Should I go back to the old/hard way of getting the water
right?
<No real point. The marine salt mix should keep things "just right"
without any further thought from you, assuming you're adding the
right amount (6 g/l, about 0.8 oz per US gallon). Guppies can be
adjusted to very high salinities, even seawater in the case of
wild/feeder Guppies, without problems. So used properly,
marine salt mix is entirely safe.> Is there some other kind of
test kit I should be getting to get more accurate KH and GH
measures? (If so, what kind, please?) <Some test kits may be
sensitive to the presence of marine salts. I'd concentrate on pH and
KH though, as these are the things you're worried about with
livebearers.> OH! I almost forgot! Last night I dosed the tank
with an anti-parasitic that contains Metronidazole and Praziquantel.
Could either or both of these effect the GH and KH? <Can't
think why.> Thanks for the help. Laura <I'd mostly
go by your livestock: if the Guppies are happy and healthy, don't
sweat the water chemistry. The marine salt mix will keep them in
perfect water conditions without any further need to change or add
anything. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Guppy water chemistry... 11/26/08 Ok. Thanks.
In answer to your question, yes, I'm only using the Marine Salt Mix at a
dose of 6g/l. The guppies seem ok. I'm getting some liquid test kits for
GH and KH to see if that will give me a better idea of the numbers. I am
a little concerned about the low KH, though. I've read that a low KH can
make one's tank susceptible to pH swings. Is this not the case?
Laura <Hi Laura. With this much marine salt mix, you aren't going
to have pH swings. Trust me on this! That's why I recommend marine salt
mix over tonic/aquarium salt. This really is the "no brainer" way to
keep livebearers! Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Guppy water chemistry... 11/26/08 Trusting you
I am! :-) Thanks. I'm also doubling the tank size to give them more
adequate space. (Read in one of your many EXCELLENT articles)
Thanks again. <Happy to help! Honestly, once you get used to
keeping livebearers in big tanks with a bit of marine salt added, you'll
wonder why everyone else doesn't do it this way. Incidentally, many fish
farms maintain their guppies and mollies in brackish water ponds, or so
I'm told. Cheers, Neale.>
Need immediate help with guppy 11/19/08
I have a "tequila sunrise" (orange and yellow) guppy that has recently
become ill. <What's the water chemistry? Water quality? Fancy guppies
are extremely sensitive to poor water quality. If you can detect ammonia
or nitrite, then that's the likely problem right there. Guppies also
need hard, basic water; hardness 10-25 degrees dH, pH 7.5-8.0.> I
have a 25 gallon tank with only three small neon tetras, one guppy, and
one Pleco that has been established for about a year. <Please buy at
least as many more Neons; they're sociable animals and very unhappy in
such small numbers. The Plec will obviously get way to big for this
tank. The average Plec gets to about 45 cm (18 inches) within 2-3
years.> I do water changes weekly and the water quality is fine.
<"Fine", unfortunately, covers a lot of ground! Some aquarists imagine
all sorts of things as being "fine", when in fact they're idea of "fine"
is actually "Hell" from the perspective of the fish. So please, give me
the numbers. At minimum, you should have a pH and a nitrite test kit.
Use them.> Only the guppy has become ill but he is eating and
swimming normally. On one side of his head, which has become bright
orange, his scales are sticking out around his gills and his fin on that
side also has some orange color while the other fin is still clear. He
has an ulcer that has become larger over the past couple of days and
some of his scales are falling off. He doesn't stay near the water
surface or scratch on anything. I tried treating with tetracycline for
several days with water changes but it did not help. I couldn't get a
good picture so I attached a short movie. <Let's talk about the
ulcer. That's a secondary bacterial infection, almost always related to
poor water quality. The redness of the head is also likely a bacterial
infection, and the orange spots on the fin surely Finrot. While there
may be situations where these things happen outside of water quality
problems, ninety-nine times out of a hundred they're related to water
quality or physical damage. Given the tankmates here, I don't believe
physical damage is the issue.> Please Help! <Review water quality
and water chemistry. Give me the numbers if you're not sure what they
mean. Treat with a suitable anti-Finrot medication (such as Maracyn or
eSHa 2000), remembering to remove carbon from the filter (if you use it)
any time you add medications to an aquarium.> Thanks, Jessica
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: need immediate help with guppy
11/19/08
Neale, Here are the numbers after testing the water: nitrate - 40
ppm, nitrite - 0, hardness - 150 ppm, chlorine - 0, pH - 7.8. I am
getting ready to move the Pleco to a larger tank since he is already 8
inches long and I was going to get a few more tetras but I wanted to
help the guppy first before risking the spread of a disease. I will try
the Maracyn treatment and remove the carbon from the filter. Would you
suggest another water change before adding the medication? Thanks for
your help. Jessica <Hello Jessica. Zero nitrite is obviously a
good thing, so from that angle at least things seem fine. As for water
chemistry, your water is only moderately hard, and while excellent for
Neons and catfish, it's a little softer than I'd recommend for Guppies.
That said, I doubt that's the problem here. So there's nothing obviously
"wrong" with the environment. Bottom line, I'm now mystified about
precisely what the cause of the disease is. My advice for treating with
Maracyn holds, and if it doesn't work, do a big (50%) water change and
switch to Maracyn 2. Between them, these two antibiotics should
cover most of the common causes of ulcers and Finrot. As for doing water
changes prior to medication, that's never a bad idea. Just remember,
don't do water changes between the first and final doses of any
course of medication. Good luck, Neale.>
Re: need immediate help with guppy
11/25/08
Hi Neale, I tried adding both Maracyn and Maracyn 2 to the tank after a 30%
water change - now on day 5 and the guppy looks terrible - now scales are
protruding and the ulcer is very deep though he is still swimming and eating
normally. I also replaced the old filter with a newer one that circulates the
water better. I just today noticed that the small upside-down catfish I have
(sorry - forgot to add him to the list of tankmates) has very red gills and is
just floating at the top of the tank and is very sluggish. Is this from the
addition of the medication? Should I remove the catfish from the tank, the
guppy, or both? I do have a 10 gallon tank I could use as a hospital tank but it
is not yet set up. Thanks again, Jessica <I suspect not much can be
done about your Guppy. By the time the Dropsy-like symptoms appear, small fish
are usually so ravaged by bacteria that their organs are failing and nothing
much will save them. Isolating the Guppy could help, and for want of anything
better I'd also consider raising the salinity to at least 25% seawater (SG
1.005) by adding 9 grammes of marine salt mix (not tonic salt) per litre of
water. This will reduce the osmotic pressure on the fish, and hopefully draw
some of the fluid out of the body cavity. The salt will also have a mild
sterilising effect on the ulcer. When you set up the hospital tank, use some
mature filter media from the other tank, and raise the salinity in stages, by
first almost filling the tank with freshwater, and then adding one-fourth of the
required salt (dissolved into jugs of warm water) at four intervals, separated
by an hour or two. This will allow the fish and the filter time to adjust. As
for the Synodontis, this could be a reaction to the medication; some catfish are
sensitive to some medications, though seemingly not in a consistent, predictable
way that is easy to explain. In any case, once the Guppy is removed you can do
two big water changes (50% each time, with 6-24 hours between them) to flush out
most of the medication, and then see if the catfish settles down. If that
doesn't help, get back in touch and we'll discuss further. Cheers, Neale.>
Male guppies urgent 10/17/08
I have two male guppies in my ten gallon tank. <Too small of Poecilia
reticulata: the males are aggressive and the females need space.> (The female
recently died from old age.) <One male to 2+ females is the recommended way
to stock these fish; your female was VERY likely stressed to death.> The two
males have been chasing each other and shoving themselves in each others faces.
Are my guppies just playing? <Fighting.> Or, are they fighting that could
soon lead to death? <Certainly not how I'd recommend keeping this species,
anyway.> Please help me! Thank you, Brian, a concerned guppy lover <Do see
my thoughts on this species, here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/guppies.htm Cheers, Neale.>
Planted tank with
female guppies, sys. 9/2/08 Dear Wet Web Guys:
<Hi,> You helped me before, so I am writing you again in the hopes that you
will provide me with more solid information on keeping a healthy tank.
<Fire away!> I have three planted tanks, two of them holding guppies I
raised from fry. But it is the tank with females guppies that I am concerned
with. Unlike the 14G tank with (I'm guessing) 20 males, plus 2 Oto cats, 4
shrimp and numerous snails, and which is staying fairly clear of algae, the tank
with the 11 females stays a little cloudy despite 1/2 water changes sometimes as
frequently as every other day. <Females are substantially bigger than
males, so that's a higher biological loading on the filter, water changes, etc.
Generally cloudy water comes down to either diatom/bacterial blooms on the one
hand, or silt on the other.> I am debating these options: (A) adding a DIY
CO2 injection to try to grow the 8 plants in the tank so they can handle this
amount of nitrogenous waste, <Algae will certainly diminish in tanks with
healthy plant growth, but adding CO2 fertilisation is an expensive solution to a
problem that may simply be the need for more/better filtration. Mechanical
filtration (filter wool for example) is critical to removing silt from the water
column.> (B) buy an Otocinclus and a male apple snail for this tank,
<Neither will have any impact on cloudy water. Otocinclus are gregarious, so
"an" Otocinclus isn't an option; you buy them in groups of six or more. I'm not
a big fan of this genus for a variety of reasons, not least of which is their
appalling survival record in the average community tank. Apple Snails are
sensitive animals easily harassed by fish that peck at them, which Guppies
surely will. They also need a cool winter "break" or they fail to live long.
Essentially not suitable for fish tanks, though great fun on their own. Kept and
bred them many times. Nerites and Cherry Shrimps are infinitely better
algae-eaters for small/medium aquaria.> (C) Get rid of a few guppies and
hope they are not eaten by larger, more aggressive fish in somebody else's tank
<Well, sooner of later you will have to "thin the herd". That's where your local
retailer or fish club comes in. Nowadays people advertise their excess fish on
forums too. In any case, guppies of decent quality shouldn't be difficult to
rehome.> or (D) some combination of the above. <Would tend to look at
why the water is cloudy first, and then establish whether diatoms (golden
colour); bacteria (usually off-white); or silt (typically grey, and happens
after a new tank is set up usually).> These guppies (11 total) seem to have
stopped the growing spurt as their appetites have started to slow down.
<There's "negative feedback" in aquaria. As the fish get bigger, the water
becomes polluted faster, and that slows down growth rate. Invariably, you need
to increase water changes to maintain the same level of growth. Indeed, if you
ignore this, stunting or even ill-health become very real risks. Ten gallons is
fine for rearing fish up to around 2-3 cm (say, an inch or so in old money) but
after that you do need to be rehoming them. Overstocking may be part of why this
tank isn't "balanced", and why the water is cloudy.> They are in a 10G tank
with a little over an inch of substrate, 3 pieces of Mopani and 8 plants. I am
inept at applying the one inch rule. Can you help me calculate the largest
number of female guppies I can reasonably keep in this tank if I add an Oto cat
and perhaps a male apple snail? <These "inch per gallon" rules only make
sense in context. An Oscar is the same length as 12 Neon tetras, both coming out
at about 18 inches. But would they both fit into an 18 gallon aquarium?
Obviously not. So you need to put any rules of thumb into context. Females
Guppies simply aren't (in my opinion) suited to 10 gallon tanks because of their
size, and while you could in theory keep, say, half a dozen alive in there,
they'd be crowded and you'd have your work cut out keeping water quality good.
Male Guppies are aggressive, and if mixed with females would pester them to
distraction. The poor females wouldn't be able to find resting places away from
the males. So you need to be intelligent and consider the size, activity level,
diet, social behaviour and other relevant factors when stocking your tanks.
That's where reading up on the needs of a fish come into the equation.> Of
the three tanks, I prefer this tank because of the way the females watch me...
they remind me of puppies begging at a table. They get excited when they see me
looking at them and are very aware of what I am doing in the room. Really cute.
<Yes indeed. Livebearers generally become tame very easily, and respond
positively to good care by being all-around excellent pets. It's a shame
historically they've been written off as "beginner's fish" or worse.>
Coleen
<Cheers, Neale.>
Nearing stocking limit,
somewhat urgent... 4/16/08
Hello everybody, my name is Jeremy. I want to first and foremost compliment
your site as one of the best fishkeeping websites I have found, even after
extensive searching. I have a bit of a problem. My tank, (29 gallon with
AquaClear 30 gal hang on box filter, separate sponge, carbon and biomedia with
old net attached to intake to protect fry.) currently has 4 Otos, 3 cories, 4
ghost shrimp, 6 espei Rasbora, 2 adult guppies, three 6-week-old guppies, and
about a dozen week-old babies. I currently am following a schedule of changing
50% of the water every Saturday. (They seem to enjoy it.) I know that I won't be
able to keep all the guppies , but I am unsure at exactly what point to start
giving them away. So the essence of my question is: How many adult guppies can
this system support with the current water change schedule?
A thousand thanks in advance!
<Hello Jeremy; thanks for the kind words. A good basic rule to start with is
that small fish (like Guppies) can be housed at about one inch of fish per
gallon of water. In practise though filtration and especially water changes can
substantially alter this. Another factor is the buffering capacity of the water:
in very hard, alkaline water the inevitable pH drop that happens in
heavily-stocked tanks is slowed down. So really your task is to check that
nitrite stays zero, pH stays steady, and nitrate stays relatively low (ideally
less than 50 mg/l). Provided you are seeing these results, your tank is safe,
even if it isn't "optimal" in terms of stocking. Now if you're asking for a
ballpark figure, you can probably keep about 30 up to 1-inch long Guppies
alongside your other fish without having major water quality problems *assuming*
the filtration is good (check nitrite!) and you are doing at least 50% water
changes weekly (ideally more!). Once the fish are above an inch in length, it's
time to move them out. Adult Guppies pose two problems: males are aggressive,
and females are quite big, up to two inches in length. So the females especially
will pull down water quality, while the males may start nipping the fins of one
another. Cheers, Neale.>
Question about my tequila
sunrise guppy – 4/12/08
Hello,
I tried to ask this question on your website but it asked me for a login which i
don't know.
<???>
I recently bought a Tequila Sunrise Guppy from our local PetSmart along with a
blue/silver guppy exactly a week from today. I put them in the tank with my
Betta fish, and they were doing great. I woke up this morning and my tequila
sunrise guppy was at the top of the tank floating on it's side.
<Almost always when people tell me stories like this, it's because of the
following issues: tank too small, tank under-filtered, tank not properly
matured. So let's review. Guppies MUST have an aquarium at least 10 gallons in
size, and in all honesty fancy guppies are so delicate (and the males often so
aggressive) than a 20 gallon tank is ESSENTIAL. Water chemistry needs to be hard
and alkaline. Adding a little MARINE MIX (not aquarium/tonic) salt, 3-6 grammes
per litre, helps, especially if you live in a soft water area. The aquarium
needs to be very well filtered, certainly the filter should have at least 4
times the volume of the tank in turnover per hour. There should be ZERO ammonia
and nitrite at all times. Temperature must be not less than 25 C, 77 F. What you
CANNOT do with Guppies is stick them in a small, unfiltered aquarium of the sort
(sadly) used for Bettas by some people. They are completely unsuitable for that
sort of maintenance.>
I thought it was dead and when i approached the tank it swam, while still being
on it's side just a little. In fear that my beta fish had done something to it,
i moved it to a different bowl. When i first moved it, it swam like normal then
after a bout 30 seconds turned over on it's side and slowly swam that way then
just sits at the top of the bowl. I don't know what's wrong with my guppy. I've
searched yahoo, and I've looked all over your website typing in key points for
my question, but all i found was a plenty on it's side and the rest was about
pregnant guppies and nothing about being on it's side. If i could get an answer
a.s.ap. i would greatly appreciate it. I don't know if my fish is sick or not,
or hurt.
-Lori
<Honestly need more information re: aquarium size, filtration, water chemistry,
water quality, etc. So, before going further, I'd suggest you read over this:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/guppies.htm
Once you're done and you've got some information together about your aquarium
and how the Guppies are maintained, we can try to move things forward. Cheers,
Neale.>
Guppies, sys., beh.
3/3/08
Hello,
A few weeks ago we set up a 5 gallon hex tank and bought a pair of guppies.
<Too small...>
We have worked with our water and have finally, after we lost the first two,
gotten the tank just right.
<Just right according to whom?>
We bought others, and ended up with 3 males and 2 females. One of the red-tailed
males killed a fancy tail male and one of the females.
<No surprise at all.>
We isolated him, then set up a 10 gallon tank with a divider so he would have
more room. We then went and bought him 2 female guppies, and within a day he had
bitten one and killed her.
<Someone needs to read a book about Guppies. Males are aggressive. Guppies are
NOT a good idea in tanks smaller than 20 gallons. This isn't up for discussion.
If all you have is a 10 gallon tank, keep something else.>
We removed the other female, leaving him isolated once again.
<How are you isolating him? Not one of those horrible breeding traps? They
achieve precisely nothing except removing money from your pocket.>
We called the pet store, and they agreed to exchange him for a different fish.
We brought home a new fancy tail male and he seems just as aggressive.
<Male Guppies attempt to dominate the area around them. It just so happens that
a 10 gallon tank is so small any one male Guppy will treat this as his private
kingdom.>
He is chasing all of the females around the tank constantly, bumping into them.
<Not bumping: either attempting to copulate or else displaying aggression.>
I cannot tell if he is trying to bite them, but that is a concern.
<For the female Guppies especially, I'd imagine!>
We have 2 males ( including him) and four females. All the info I can find talks
about increasing the number of females, but I don't know if that will help.
<It will, in a sufficiently large aquarium.>
I do not have the room to set up a separate tank.
<Then Guppies are not for you.>
What do you recommend I do next? Is it common for them to be this aggressive, or
are we just unlucky?
<Completely normal. Please read about fish beforehand in books and fishkeeping
magazines that have been fact checked. The only livebearer suitable for a tank
this small is the Dwarf Mosquitofish (Heterandria formosa). Nothing else
commonly available will work out well. Next up, a 10-gallon tank is ridiculously
small. Do read here for more:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwlivestk.htm
Cheers, Neale.>
Guppy question, sel. sys.,
dis. 2/17/08
I've had guppies for years and stopped and restarted a few times, out of
frustration of how delicate the females are.
<Of all fish species... this standard used to be rock solid... the touchy stock
from the Far East has ruined a good deal of the hobby the last decades>
I also have a 30gallon planted tank with co2 and such, so I'm not quite a
beginner.
I have almost enough salt to be considered brackish, think between 1Tbls/5gallon
to 1Tbls/10gallon. This is a planted eclipse hex 5 gallon.
<Small... hard to keep stable... and with the salt... easy for nitrification to
vacillate>
I have/had 5 females and 4 males. I think I even had another female but she died
back 2 months ago. They are all fancy guppies, so delicate it seems. I got them
from two different stores, one being PetSmart (sorry). I've had 2 females die
now in the past day. I just did a water change 3 days ago, about 20%, as usual
for every other to maybe ever week. The two that died were very pregnant and one
of them and possibly the other looked like they were about to give birth (both
were hanging out down on the gravel or plants being alone).
With that background out of the way, is there anything else I can do to make the
females more comfortable and less likely to die?
<Yes... see below>
This is a constant problem and I only got these fish 2 months ago and already
have lost almost half my original females. The temp is usually at 76 but can go
up to 79 (the eclipse light always has a tendency of heating the tank up if the
room is mildly warm). But lately it hasn't been.
Is my tank too crowded maybe too?
<Is a factor, yes>
They seem happy otherwise.
Should I instead be buying more reliable females,
<Yes>
is it possible I've just had bad luck with the ones I bought?
<Mmm, not entirely, no>
I think the ones that died today were both from PetSmart if that matters.
It's just demoralizing.
Thanks for any information.
-Erin
<Too many Poecilia reticulata on the market are infested with Hexamita
(perennially) and Columnaris (seasonally, and in more erratic punctuated
fashion)... Guarding against the introduction of these diseases can be
accomplished only through careful exclusion/quarantining of all incoming
livestock... and treatment with antiprotozoal (Metronidazole often) and possibly
antimicrobial (most celebratedly Neomycin...). You might have "luck" with
buying/selecting better stock from another source... but I would still at least
isolate it for a good two weeks (to weaken pathogens) before introduction to
your main displays... Having a larger system would be of great benefit here as
well as bolstering the fishs' immune systems through improved nutrition... Do
see the Net re the disease organisms mentioned... they can be defeated,
excluded... Bob Fenner>
Proper water conditions for
fancy guppies 2/10/08
I have a 75 gallon established aquarium that I would love to fill with fancy
guppies. I also have 2 ten gallon tanks for sick fish, fry or a brine
shrimp hatchery.
We have extremely hard well water here, the tank was used for Malawian African
Cichlids with great success for many, many years.
I understand guppies prefer hard water, but will they thrive in this extremely
hard, limestone water? I would prefer to choose a fish that would thrive in our
type of water than to constantly amend the conditions.
<Yes, they'll love this stuff. "Liquid Rock" is a Guppy's idea of heaven.>
Also, is it such that ALL guppies prefer brackish water? I noticed from one of
your articles, the aquarium water should be amended with "proper marine salt,
not tonic salt". Is this true with fancy guppies as well? If so, should I
exclusively use marine salt in lieu of regular aquarium salt when setting up the
tank and changing water?
<Guppies don't need salt added to the tank, but it does help, and is probably
essential for people who live in areas with soft/acid water. Salt also helps
prevent Finrot and Whitespot. You can in fact use either tonic salt or marine
salt mix, but marine salt mix is better, which is why I recommend it. What's the
difference? Tonic salt is plain sodium chloride, essentially cooking salt
without the iodine. While it has helpful properties with regard to disease and
reducing the toxicity of nitrate/nitrite, it does nothing much in terms of water
chemistry beyond raising the salinity. Marine salt mix does all that tonic salt
does, but it also contains a lot of calcium carbonate and various other
minerals. These raise the pH, making the water basic (which tonic salt doesn't
do) and increases the buffering capacity of the water as well, inhibiting rapid
pH changes. The result is water that is not only slightly more saline, but also
chemically much more stable. If you have very hard, basic water (as seems to be
the case) then choosing between tonic salt and marine salt will likely make no
odds. Go for whatever is better value. But for people with soft/acid water,
marine salt mix is a better all-around solution.>
What is the recommended dosage of marine salt for a 75 gallon aquarium?
<There's really no ideal dosage since Guppies can adapt to anything from
freshwater to marine conditions equally well. Indeed, you don't need to add salt
at all. But as a basic supplement, a 3 grammes per litre/0.5 oz per gallon is
about right. The resulting water should have a specific gravity around 1.001 or
so, i.e., about 10% seawater salinity. This is well within the tolerances of
most other livebearers, so you can easily add Platies, Swordtails or whatever to
the system without worrying. Mollies obviously love salt -- the more the better!
If your Guppies are thriving there's no big need to add salt as your water is
likely hard enough for them to thrive. But if you find your Guppies are prone to
whitespot and fungus or Finrot, this will certainly help. As I say, the salt is
most useful to those aquarists in soft water areas.>
Thank you so much in advance for all your help! I look forward to your
reply.
Pamela
<Cheers, Neale.>
Guppies... systems, water changes
12/26/06
Dear Crew,
I have a 20 gallon tank with about 6 large mollies and down to about 5
guppies. There are also 4 or 5 young mollies that have been born in the tank
over the past few weeks.
I haven't had great luck with the guppies. One had white-looking spots, so I
had to let her go. One had a ripped tail and couldn't swim. I have no idea how
that happened, but I think he was a "dragon tail" guppy. Then, yesterday, I
discovered a bloated female dead on the bottom of the tank.
She looked okay the day before. The guppy with the torn tail also couldn't
swim, and sank to the bottom of the tank to die. Some weeks ago there was
another male guppy who sank to the bottom of the tank, couldn't swim for no
obvious reason, and also died. None of the mollies have died so far. None of
the original three female guppies has looked pregnant, nor have I found any baby
guppies.
There is no ammonia in the water, and the pH is at around 8.
I always thought that when fish died they floated to the top of the tank.
That never seems to happen with our fish. Why is that?
<Something new...>
We have had this aquarium for close to three months. I have a very good filter,
but have never changed any part of the water, only added some water when the
level was low. I have read that it's a good idea to change some of the water on
occasion, but I'm a little worried about doing it myself.
<Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwh2ochgs.htm
and the linked FAQs file above>
A friend of ours set up the whole thing, and he doesn't change the water, only
cleans the filter every three months.
<... a foolish mistake>
How essential is it to change some percent of the water?
Thanks.
BLS
<Very useful... to dilute metabolites, prevent "heavy water" syndrome (what
happens to all the solids you're adding?), refresh some essential nutrients to
your systems microbiota... Bob Fenner>
Missing guppy 12/23/06
Dear wet web media crew,
First off, thank you for your website. Since I found it a week ago, I have read
it every time I have a spare moment. I have learned so much and I know that my
husband is already sick of me saying, "I read on wet web media..." But now we
have a small problem. I looked for an answer and couldn't find it, and I hope
that the answer isn't somewhere that I just didn't find. We set up a tank a
couple of weeks ago, let it cycle, and added a few male guppies. Then, after
almost a week, we added a few female guppies last night. However, one of the
females is now missing. I couldn't find her this morning. I mentioned it to my
husband when I went home for lunch, and he spent almost an hour searching the
tank for her (just by looking in), but she's still missing. It's only a 10
gallon tank, but there are quite a few fake plants in there as well as a
decoration of a ruin of a castle that has quite a few holes and a hollow
underneath (though you can see most of the hollow). Could she have been eaten
in the 11 hours during the night?
<Mmm, not likely... You don't have other fish species present? Snails? The great
likelihood is this one fish jumped out...>
Could she be hiding to give birth? Or could she be dead and floating in the
hollow under the castle?
<Again... probably not>
If she's hiding in the castle to give birth, would it disturb her too much to
lift the castle up to find her? Thanks for your time, especially so close to
Christmas.
Celeste
<I would look about the outside of the tank... perhaps for a smiling cat? Bob
Fenner>
Re: Missing guppy - found! 12/23/06
Well, we found her!! Tonight, we moved the castle ruin, and not finding
her, I convinced my husband to look in the filter, even though he assured me a
fish could not be sucked up the filter. He removed the filter pads and we heard
something drop down behind the aquarium stand. Fearing the worst, we quickly
grabbed a flashlight and sure enough, there she was, not moving. It took us a
minute to pick her up and get her back in, but she started swimming and hunkered
down into a depression left from the castle ruin. We turned off the lights in
the room she is in and watched by the nightlight until she started swimming a
few minutes ago. My husband gave her a little bit of food, which she ate, and
she is now hunkered back down. We were going to do a water change and a vacuum,
but I think we're going to wait until tomorrow to not further stress her.
<Good thinking>
Hopefully, she will fully recover (we pray). We don't think she was sucked up
in the filter, we think she jumped up into the opening where the water pours
out.
<Agreed. Common>
We do have a cover, but there's an opening for the filter. I've included my
original e-mail so you know which one you don't need to respond to. Thanks for
your time,
Celeste
<Thank you for this follow-up. Bob Fenner>
2.5 Gallon Stocking, Guppies... 2/26/06
Hi!
I have a 2.5 gallon mini bow front with 10 plants, 1.5 inches of gravel, a
heater, and a nano filter. I wanted to know how many guppies I could have
in this aquarium.
<I would go with three, one male and two females, or three males>
It has been cycling without fish for 3 months, so I'm not worried about
cycling. Also, could I have 1 Oto cat with them for clean up?
<Yes... but this fish is not really a scavenger... Maybe read re Corydoras...>
Would this interfere with breeding?
<Nope>
(My intention) If this will not work, what fish do you recommend for this
setup?
<Whiteclouds... Paradisefish (Macropodus)...>
(Excluding bettas) Also, what type of maintenance regimen would I have to carry
out to sufficiently care for this tank?
<Posted... on WWM>
Thanks in advance for your advice,
Anthony
<Bob Fenner>
Lost Cycle in Guppy Tank 11/3/05
Hi Crew! Thanks for a GREAT resource! I am at the end of my rope here!!
OK, back in "The Day" (late 70's early 80's) I had 42 million guppies. I had
them in fish tanks, in pickle jars, and in 5 gal buckets. Once in a while a fish
or 5 would die. I started with just two humble fancies.
I loaded all my guppies (except the 2 original in their 20 gal tank) and took
them to the pet store for credit, got some cardinal tetras, some neons, some
swordtails, platys, and mollies and killed off a lot of fish because of Ich and
that great blue stuff that stained everything before it killed your fish.
That was when I learned that room temperature water is NOT the same temp as
aquarium water, and that even an overall drop of 1 degree could stress your fish
enough to cause ich. (Especially on the mollies, so it seemed.) After 3 times of
being wiped out by ich I gave up. The Plecostomus, and the Chinese algae eater
that refused to die each time their tank mates did, were traded for a pair of
green anoles, and that was the end of my tropical fish days.
<Thanks for the background. Although it's a little late to help fish that have
been dead for 30 years I do want to clear something up. A one degree drop in
temp is not what causes Ich. It's is a living parasite that must be introduced
into your system to affect your fish. If you use a proper QT whenever you add
new fish a temp drop will not cause Ich to spontaneously generate in your tank.
However any stress can cause your fish to loose their ability to fight it off.
But not a one degree drop. I regularly subject my Plecos to a 10 degree drop to
trigger a spawn. They never get sick from this.>
Fast Forward to the year 2005.
My son is born in July, and at 2 weeks of age shows a definite fascination for
fish in an aquarium. So I decided to go back to the simple hobby of fancy
guppies. Now I am in a bind. The boss, and mother of my child has put her foot
down. No more money being spent on fish that just die. I am managing to save
babies. (Currently about 10 from what I can count in a 1 gal tank full of Java
Moss)
But the inhabitants of my 15 gal seem to struggle daily. The first major hurdle
was a fungus that I used Binox to kill off (along with my ornamental Java Moss,
and my duckweed,). The Binox also seemed to kill some of my good bacteria,
because the day before using it all my levels were "perfect" according to the
clerk at the pet store. Sadly this is the same man who told me to use Binox in a
3 week old tank. (I had the flirtation
(filtration, mayhaps?) up and running for 2 weeks before the first fish
moved in. (8 very small feeder guppies).
Then a week later my nitrates were elevating. Out of a total of 4 pairs of
fancy guppies bought and 16 "feeders" I now have 2 fancy males, and 2 fancy
females, as well as 4 common female 2 common males, and one multisexed fish that
may or may not be a guppy, or a swordtail
(see Mystery Guppy - Just a Sweet Transvestite From Guppselvania? - II -
10/29/2005).
The problem is that the fish are always swimming around like they are being
electrocuted randomly. Most of the time they swim about just fine. But
occasionally one at a time they will all at one point or another "crash" into
the bottom of the tank, swim erratically, or lay on the bottom of the tank
between a rock and the side of the tank.
There is aggression displayed by both males and females. Including female to
female fights. The two female fancies, which are the biggest fish in the tank
had rich dark tails, (One blue, and the other black) now they are transparent,
but still show dark coloration.
The Boss won't let me get a test kit so I am testing the "Free water Test With
Purchase" rule at my local store. I guilt them into it, because they were the
ones who sold me infected feeder guppies in the first place. The problem is
conflicting information EVERYWHERE.
Last week my NITRATES were high. I was told to do multiple water changes. I get
the nitrates down, and now my NITRITES are "borderline". The LFS tells me not to
use treated tap, and to use spring water. But the Cycle FAQ seems to prefer
treated tap. The LFS says to be sure and clean the gravel when I do water
changes, and that will help lower the nitrites...But won't that remove
beneficial bacteria????
How can I go from "dangerously high" nitrates in a week, and then to "slightly
elevated" nitrites a week later? Nothing has changed as far as feeding (4 very
small feedings a day, typically what is left from crushing a small pinch for the
fry), or temperature (74 with no light, 78 with).
And there is no new stock...I do have 2 Cory cats, and 2 fancy females in a T
tank. I did use some Stress Coat after my last water change, and I had put 5TBS
of salt in my 15 gal tank twice in a week after 5 gal water changes. Is there
something I am missing that are causing my fish to "FREAK OUT!"? Most of the
fish are showing redness around their gills and mouths. PLEASE help! My son is
not old enough to appreciate Green Anoles yet!
Doug Alley, & William, President of Gupticon 5 and supreme drooler!
<These are water quality problems caused my the meds or the newness of the tank.
There are two different bacteria that control water quality. The first converts
the ammonia in fish waste into nitrite. The second converts the nitrites to
nitrates. The second is a very slow growing bacteria. It sounds like you need
some more time to allow them to grow in numbers great enough to handle all the
nitrite. Continue with water changes, using dechlorinated tap water. Drop the
Stress Coat and the salt. Use a gravel vac to keep the bottom clean. A high
amount of organic matter will cause the red streaks, fin problems and the
flashing. Don>
"New Tank Syndrome", Guppies, Fatalities.... - 10/19/2005
Hi,
<Hello.>
I had an absolutely crushing experience yesterday. I could NOT figure out what
happened.
<Uh-oh....>
I had put my guppies into a 10 gallon tank with heater and filter. They weren't
crowded up and they were doing fine....for about a week.
<Uh, so the tank was just set up a week ago?>
Suddenly yesterday I came home and looked in the tank and realized immediately
that something was terribly wrong. The first thing I noticed was that the water
was cloudy. I had checked the tank every day during the previous week and the
water was always clear and the fish were swimming normally about.
<Clarity of the water speaks nothing about the quality of the water.... You
absolutely must test for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate.... Especially during
this critical cycling time of the aquarium....>
They had light during the day via a window and they had darkness at night and
evening. I fed them with the food from the container I'm feeding the other fish
which are still alive and healthy, with the possible exception of some old food
left at the bottom of the container, but I did not see any of that upon
inspection. I fed them the evening of night before last, I think, or if that
wasn't the last time, it was early yesterday before going to work. They did not
attract my attention to anything unusual at that time. I checked the pH of the
water after I found them dead, and I found it to be pretty close to normal and
possibly a little alkaline, which is what livebearers like.
<pH is not the issue here, but the toxicity of ammonia and nitrite
present.... this is what's killing them.>
The temperature was not too hot or too cold. When I found them there was one
small one still alive so I immediately put her (him?) in my healthy tank in the
side container with two molly fry. I thought I'd saved at least that one and it
seemed to be ok. About an hour or so later I checked it and it was also dead!
<Too badly burned from ammonia or nitrite to recover, I'm sure.>
I inspected the dead fish and found a number of them seemed to have big openings
at the stomach area.
<Possibly just coincidence, possibly something else pathogenic - but the root
cause here is a toxic environment.>
Can you shed any possible light on the possible cause of this???? I would be
ever so happy to find out because I'm afraid to put anything else in there and I
am, to tell the truth, disillusioned about keeping any fish at all now!!
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwset-up.htm
and also in the Set-Up and Maintenance portions of the Freshwater section of the
website.>
Thanks for your help. Looking forward to hearing your thoughts if any on the
possible cause. I haven't emptied the tank, thinking that if I need to test the
water I'll still have it.
<Begin reading, and learning about water quality and how it affects your
fish. You will do fine in time, no worries.>
Leslie W.
<Wishing you well, -Sabrina>
Urgent question about my 2 female and male guppies
Hi there,
<Hellooooo!>
Good day to you. I really need your help.
<Hope I can>
I have two pet guppies, one male and one female. The female has given birth
about 6 times since last November, but for the last 3 times when I awaited the
birth of her fry, nothing came out, instead the water gradually turned very
cloudy, with a foul-smelling thick white fluid that made the whole bowl
<A bowl? I do hope it is filtered, aerated...>
stink and almost opaque. But there's been no sign of any fry. Almost overnight,
clean water turns absolutely white, filthy and very smelly. What's happening?
The female (her name's Daffy) looks noticeably thinner every time after the
water turns putrid. Then she starts getting fatter and fatter again and the same
thing happens after another 3 weeks.
<...>
Another thing is the male's tail looks quite raggedy and like it's getting
smaller. There's no sign of remnants of tail on the fish bowl floor though. He
had a small case of fin rot, but jumped out of his bowl when I quarantined him,
and was almost dead when I found him quite a long way from the bowl. He's been
fine since (I add aquarium salt to the water) except for his tail. What could be
happening?
Please help me.
Best wishes, Rosie.
<Thank you for writing. I think we should start nearer the beginning here...
Have you read the materials archived on our site re Guppies? Please do:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwlivestkindex.htm. Scroll
down... particularly the FAQs files on Systems... Bob Fenner> Re: Urgent
question about my 2 female and male guppies
Hello Bob,
<Rosie>
First off, thanks for writing, really appreciate your time, hope you can
reply me again, to this?
<Yes>
I've read the FAQ on guppy systems and so on. I started off with a small
bowl that the fish shop said would be okay for 2 guppies, but as time
passed, the guppies grew and I bought a much bigger bowl. I buy oxygen
crystal balls, which I change every 7 days to ensure fresh oxygen though
the guy at the same shop said the balls should last 6 months. Apart from
that, there's no substrate.
<... this is not a good system for guppies>
I wanted to add some fish toy or something for them to play with but the
guy at the shop said no need. Do you think they'll be dead bored? The
female always excitedly greets me every time I approach the bowl.
<Not bored>
Anyway, the oxygen balls are in the bowl, and I add some aquarium salt.
The surface area is large and the guppies seem happy, I am just very
worried about the female who's gives off a smelly thick white fluid
discharge every 3 weeks with no sign of fry even though she gets fatter
and fatter leading up to that time, like in 3-week cycles.
The male's tail is smaller now, and he refuses to eat, I am so worried.
I keep them company whenever I can. Hope to hear from you soon.
Best wishes Rosie.
<Please read where you were referred. Your fish's health is impaired due
to poor and vacillating water quality... If you want to keep them in
bowls, you will need to add at least undergravel (and gravel)
filtration, or an air-driven sponge filter... Bob Fenner>
Guppy quest
'ello,
<'ello.>
I'm thinking about using my 10 gallon tank for guppies so I was doing some
research before I went ahead and made plans to convert it to a proper guppy
home.
<Yay! Glad to hear you're researching first!>
After doing a lot of reading I noticed there are a lot of conflicting ideas on
the proper care of guppies. Most sites seemed to deal with the idea of breeding
& showing guppies. That isn't something I'm into just yet (what would I do with
all the babies? lol), so I was wondering if it is possible to have a tank with
just male guppies and no female guppies without them harassing each other?
<This is possible, to some extent. Keep an eye on fins and tails and
aggression, just in case.>
My tank currently has white gravel which I heard is harmful for guppies, is this
true?
<As long as it's gravel, not crushed coral or aragonite, you should be okay.>
If it is, should I get a different type of gravel or get rid of it completely?
<I always stick with a natural look. Seems more 'realistic' to me; I like
having a slice of a river carved out and put in my world.>
Also, I have plastic plants, would it be better to have live ones?
<Personally, I prefer live - but that's completely up to the individual.>
Some sites stated that live plants will promote harmful elements while others
said they're beneficial to the guppies.
<As long as you stick to 'easy' plants (Vallisneria sp., java fern, java moss,
Anubias sp., anacharis/elodea, so many others.>
I have a 'bubble stone' to help add oxygen to the water and in the past my fish
loved to swim against the current it created, is it okay to use with guppies?
<Absolutely!>
I can adjust the strength of the bubbles if needed. I was also reading about
'cycling' and how that works, I have a single female platy in my tank right now.
Is it okay to add a duo or trio of guppies right away or should I clean the tank
and wait the suggested 2 month period?
<It shouldn't take two months to cycle - here's a link to cycling FAQs:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/estcycfaqs.htm
>
What about 'mystery' snails, can I add one to a guppy tank?
<Sure.>
Thank you for answering my questions! -Dream
<You bet. -Sabrina>
Guppy Temperatures
<Hi, MikeD here>
I know that cold water guppies can be turned into warm water guppies. But can
warm water guppies be turned into cold water guppies?<That's a yes and no
question. While they can tolerate less than tropical conditions, they still
can't survive in temperatures that approximate freezing or nearly so> If so how
is this done?<Veeeery slowly! As long as the temperatures are allowed to drop
gradually, I've seen guppies in 60 degrees F. water, but any sudden changes in
temperature will still cause systemic shock, often followed by an outbreak of
"ick", a protozoan parasite of fishes.>
Guppy disease
I have a female fancy guppy in a new tank with rather high nitrates - I
think maybe 40ppm but using strips so it's hard to tell. When I bought the
fancy, she looked a little tired, but was in a mixed tank, so I took a chance on
her. Now her body is drooping, especially her tail. I remember that this
had happened to me once before, but I don't remember what medicine they gave me
for her. Anyway, the other guppies are rubbing up against her and a second one
is showing symptoms. Also there are fry that were born yesterday in that same
tank which are now in another tank (my fry tank). What disease or parasite
would cause this?
<Not a parasite... age, poor nutrition, lacking water quality... can though>
I see no other noticeable signs or symptoms. Also, is it possible that the fry
may have caught this also?
<Look to your water chemistry... doing regular water changes, keeping pH and
alkalinity middling to high, offering a mix of fresh and prepared foods... Bob
Fenner>
Re: guppy disease
Okay, here's the deal on water quality. The hospital tank and the "clean"
tank I never bothered testing, because the "clean" tank was brand new, I knew it
needed to start cycling, and I just added aquarium salt and Bio-Spira. But
within 48 hours, I was adding meds to the tank which I knew would mess up water
quality.
<Yes>
Same with the hospital tank. I have two other tanks - one has the fry in it,
the other had Neons and a Cory catfish. Both had Bio-Spira and initially were
testing well, but suddenly shot up in nitrites - I don't know about ammonia
(using test strips for the moment), but I assume they were high also. I did 50%
changes on both tanks, and added more Bio-Spira. It shot up again in nitrites,
which normally doesn't happen with the Bio-Spira. Two of the guppies showing no
symptoms were taken from a medicated tank and put in with the Neons.
Then I started reading the labels on "tank starters" that I had used before
the Bio-Spira came in (I have it shipped in). One of them has some kind of
"miracle granules" in it that absorb the NITRATES! So the two tanks that haven't
been medicated are off the charts in nitrites, the nitrates are getting
absorbed, and there's nothing I can do about it until I can restart the "clean"
tank and more Bio-Spira arrives (hopefully today).
<Yikes... some of the dangers of not cycling/waiting... and mixing products>
The clean tank I KNOW has no granules in it, because when I cleaned it I took
the whole thing apart and washed the undergravel system, the gravel and
everything (which I dread having to do again). That is the tank I want to
"re-start", and that is the tank I was afraid held some kind of disease. I
cannot do anything about the fry tank, because I will kill them trying to suck
out the granules from the gravel. They will just have to try and get by on water
changes until they are big enough to transfer to another tank. To the best of my
knowledge, there are no diseases in either the neon tank or the fry tank, but of
course I can't put sick fish in there either. The nitrites will definitely kill
them - I can't believe the Neons have made it!
<Can be tough, make it through cycles if start off healthy>
The reason I have not said anything about water conditions in the two tanks I
was asking about - the "clean" tank and the hospital tank - is because I know
they never had a chance to cycle, and they were being medicated, so they
COULDN'T cycle. I haven't bothered wasting expensive test strips testing
something I know isn't right.
<>
My tap water comes out with 6.8 ph and between 20 and 40 in nitrates.
<! This is way too high... even for your drinking, cooking use... I would look
into a means of getting better source water...>
<Editor's note: The
EPA
has set guidelines for what substances are allowable, and at what levels, in
potable/drinking water. If in doubt, ask your municipality for a copy of
their "Consumer Confidence" report, a.k.a. "Water Quality Report".>
pH in the neon and fry tanks is fairly high - 7.4 to 8.0 - and the only reason I
can think of is because the gravel IS old gravel, and it was mixed with a little
coral gravel from when I lived in Nashville and the city water was so hard, and
my tanks were overcrowded, it was the only way to keep the tanks balanced. The
gravel in the neon tank was never even rinsed after being brought up from
Nashville, as was the case originally with my "clean" tank.
<I see... well-written>
The two Popeye fish are actually looking a little better this morning, and they
WERE being treated with extra aquarium salt as well as the Kanamycin. I have no
Epsom salts though.
<Can be gotten from grocery stores, pharmacies... over the counter>
Your email cut off halfway through a sentence, so I am assuming you were
suggesting doing a fishless cycle on the "clean" tank.
<Yikes... didn't see this... Ahh, perhaps this is the message Jorie was
referring to>
I think that's a great idea, I just don't know where to put the three sick
guppies (two Popeye guppies who had fungus which I think is now gone - it was on
some damaged scales up around the head areas of both fish; one birthed
prematurely and is rather young, has some red on her belly up near the gills, is
bent all the time with her tail hanging down, sometimes rests on the bottom on
her tail, and one time started going into sideways contortions while still bent
downwards behind the head - she is the one I am treating with Spectrogram). The
only thing I know of to do is put all three sick guppies in the hospital tank
after it has been rinsed and some salt put in, and then start that other tank
cycling. Then I guess I just keep doing water changes on the Neons and fry, and
pray that they make it until there's a clean tank ready.
<I would "risk" putting them in with the Neons... what they "have"
(environmental) not likely "catching". Bob Fenner>
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