Filter Recommendations - 02/06/07
I forwarded my last email to you, below is what I sent.  Just to elaborate on that, I was looking into penguin, Emperor and whisper hang-on power filters.  So pretty much it was between those unless you have a better one to recommend.  Currently my Rena does 350gph, how many more gph would I need for an overstocked 75g African tank?
Thanks again Bob I appreciate it.
<The Penguin and Emperor filter lines are both made by the same company, Marineland. Go with an Emperor 400. Has Bio-wheels and overflow when it needs serviced. Nice filter. When you get tired or cleaning on the Rena you will really appreciate the Emperor. The best filter is the one you will clean the most often.-Chuck>

Airstones inside H.O.T. filters? 1/15/08
Hello, Brando here.
<Hello.>
I have a 90 gal. Malawi cichlid tank- 1 acei, 3 red peacock, 1 albino ice blue, 2 yellow labs, 2 red zebra, 1 jewel, 1 CAE, 1 African lace cat.
<Quite an interesting collection!>
Filtration is 2 TopFin 60 H.O.T. filters.
<OK.>
I have always used carbon as the filter media, however I am considering switching out the carbon for a different media.
<A no-brainer: do it. Carbon doesn't have any significant benefit in freshwater tanks. All carbon does is remove dissolved organics, which 25-50% water changes per week will be taking care of anyway. On the downside, carbon is wasting space that could be used for better biological media that would actually help water quality, or mechanical media that would improve water clarity. In a Malawi cichlid tank, even the use of a calcareous substrate, like crushed coral, would be more useful for its pH-buffering, KH-raising effects.>
The TopFin 60 is a dual-well filter and I have two of them on the tank. Should I replace the media all at once, or should I do just one side of each filter to avoid any sudden changes?
<All at once. Then take the carbon out to the garden, and ceremonially burn it, to signify your rejection of Stone Age fishkeeping in favour of the Modern Era.>
What media would you recommend?
<Anything would be better. Depends on what you're after. As noted above, a calcareous substrate would be useful. But if you're going for better water quality, then a decent ceramic media like Siporax wouldn't be a bad choice.>
Also, would it be wise to place airstones into the bottoms of these filters (so that bubbles rise up through and around the cotton pouches which hold the media) to supply more oxygen to the media?
<Worth a shot. Certainly can't hurt. But if those filters already are open to the air and have water sluicing across the media, then the bacteria may well have all the oxygen they need. In which case placing the airstones in the tank to improve water circulation might be a better use of resources.>
Thank you so much,
Brand
<Cheers, Neale.>

Canister vs. Hang-on, FW     01/13/2008
I have been looking at your site, and have seen filtration questions answered differently. My tank is a 30 gallon with a H.O.T.. Magnum and a double bio-wheel by Marineland. Not many fish as to an ammonia spike. I have a Fluval 304 and a Fluval 404 that I could use. My question is-Canister vs. Hang-On. Would I be better off using one of the canisters? Someone told me the Bio-Wheel is not a good choice, and others say it is. Could you please give me your opinion on this. Thank you for your time.
<Greetings. There's no short answer to this: it's a case of "horses for courses". All things being equal, a tropical aquarium needs about 4 times the volume of the tank in turnover per hour when small things like Neons and Guppies are kept; that goes up to about 6 times for larger fish such as Goldfish, and as much as 10 times for sensitive or mess creatures, such as big catfish, marines, Oscars, and so on. So a 100 litre aquarium with small fish needs filtration that equals at least 400 litres of turnover per hour. So far, so good. But not all filters excel at the same things. Canister filters are very good at mechanical filtration. Water is sucked in under pressure, forced through sponges or whatever, and then back into the tank. But because the canister is closed to the atmosphere the only oxygen it gets is through the water, and the bacteria can easily used up this supply as the water goes through the filter media. End result is that canister filters are less effective at biological filtration than filters that are open to the aquarium or open to the air, such as trickle filters or wet-and-dry filters. On the flip side, low-pressure trickle and wet-and-dry filters aren't so good at trapping solid waste. They don't generate much pressure, and the water doesn't pass through much mechanical filter media. Your hang-on-the-back filter is some sort of low-pressure filter, with a pump pulling water quite gently into the box where it sluices through chambers open to the air. That's great for biological filtration, but less good for mechanical filtration. The "ideal" is ultimately about choosing what your fish need most. If you're keeping Goldfish, then mechanical filtration is paramount, since these fish produce a lot of silt, partly as faeces, but also because they root about the bottom of the tank all the time. But if you were keeping marines, where tanks are lightly stocked but the livestock very sensitive to ammonia, then biological filtration is the prime issue. Realistically, provided you adhere to the 4x, 6x, or 10x rules outlined above, it shouldn't matter too much, but one idea to use two types of filter, so that you get the best of both worlds. Hope this helps, Neale.>

Filter intake problems, HOB    11/30/07
Hello WWM folks,
<Hello Melissa,>
I have a 15 gallon freshwater tank that completed its cycle two days ago. It was set up on the 15th of November. I cycled with fish - five blackskirt tetras - and seeded with sponge media from another tank. Yesterday, I did a 50% water change and added three peppered Corys.
<Hmm... a bit small for these species. Your tetras, Gymnocorymbus ternetzi, get to around 5 cm long and are hyperactive little fish. The Corydoras paleatus can get even bigger: I have specimens around the 7 cm mark. So while things might be fine now, I have to confess that I think your tank will be very cramped once these fish grow up. Do also remember that Gymnocorymbus ternetzi is a semi-parasitic fish. It eats the fins and scales from slow-moving fish. It cannot be kept with anything slow-moving, and your Corydoras are likely to get nipped periodically as well. When kept with things with long fins, like Guppies, Angelfish and Gouramis, Gymnocorymbus ternetzi simply shred their fins, resulting in fungal infections and the like. In short, not a community species, despite its wide sale as such.>
However, when I was planting the tank (Vallisneria, water sprite, Anubias and some moss, if it matters), a lot of bits of roots and leaves fell off the plants.
<This happens when plants are moved. They don't like being moved.>
I left these bits in the tank to decompose and help the cycle along.
<Not a very good idea!>
Now that the cycle is over, I've removed the small bits of leaves and roots, but there still remains quite a lot of detritus that I'm pretty sure resulted from the rotting plants. For some reason, my filter doesn't seem to be doing its job in getting rid of this detritus. I don't mean actual pieces of plant, I mean tiny specks of detritus, like dust or dirt.
<Simply means inadequate mechanical filtration. Hang-on filters are especially bad for this, being optimized for biological filtration but providing little to no mechanical filtration.>
I have a HOB filter that filters 450 L/h (my tank is 57 L). I have no dead spots in there as far as I can tell. The detritus circulates around the tank due to the current produced by the filter's waterfall, settles on the leaves of my plants or on my sand substrate, but never actually gets sucked up.
<A common problem with this sort of filter. Your filter is theoretically adequate for biological filtration, but if you're seeing silt in the tank, that's empirical proof that mechanical filtration (removal of solid particles) is inadequate. Two solutions: add more filtration, or do more water changes. Your move.>
I removed the bottom part of the intake tube which seems to have improved the suction. With the entire intake tube intact, I could feel absolutely no suction when I placed my finger at the end of it, but when I removed the bottom part I could feel some very slight suction, but nothing strong enough to take a fish. However, it doesn't seem to be making all that much difference.
<Sounds as if the filter is clogged. Assuming the pump itself is working, take a look at the filter media. As the media gets clogged up, water flow through the filter drops. Solution: clean the media. Biological media can be cleaned a bucket of aquarium water by squeezing it a few times. Mechanical media can be aggressively washed under a running tap. Carbon can be taken out and buried in the garden. You have no need for it in your sort of aquarium. Replace that part of the filter with something like filter wool.>
Obviously this subtracts terribly from the aesthetic value of my tank, but I'm also very worried for my nitrate levels. I fear that with this huge amount of detritus around, my nitrates are going to spike and then I will be faced with a whole host of new problems.
<No... plant detritus is mostly cellulose with little to no protein content (review your biology classes at school, and why carnivores only need to have small meals, but herbivores must graze for hours and hours at a time). So the effect on nitrate is minimal. One flake of flake food probably has more protein than a whole Amazon swordplant! But what silt and plant material will do is block the filter, and once water flow gets too low, the removal of ammonia and nitrite by the bacteria becomes inadequate.>
Any help is deeply appreciated.
Thanks.
-Melissa
<Hope that this helps, Neale.>

Re: Filter intake problems 11/30/07
Hi Neale,
Regarding the maximum size of the fish - I have never heard this before.
<A common problem. This is why investing in an aquarium book is such a good idea. The public library will have many, I'm sure. Always look up the maximum size of fish *before* purchase.>
I was told that I could have up to six Corys in my tank. Thanks for the heads up.
<Ah, depends on the Corydoras. Peppered Corydoras are very tolerant any may be fine enough. My specimens will happily spawn in an 8 gallon tank! But personally, I'd consider a 15 gallon tank a little on the small size for Peppered Corys. Small species, perhaps, but Peppers get to a fair old size when kept properly. Certainly upwards of 5 cm, and potentially around 7 cm.>
What kind of additional filtration do you think I need?
<To start with, I'd just try manual cleaning. Siphon out 50% of the water at a time (what I recommend you do once a week regardless). Put your finger over the spout to 'shoo' away any fish that get too close. Use the siphon like a vacuum cleaner, sucking up detritus as best you can. Assuming the plants are actually thriving and not slowly dying, you should be able to remove all the dead material by doing this. If you want, repeat every day until the tank is spick-and-span.>
I wouldn't have thought my tank needed a canister filter. I washed the filter media, but to no avail.
<Your filter probably just doesn't have much mechanical filtration capacity. Many don't. For small fish in unplanted or lightly planted tanks it really isn't a big deal. Mechanical filtration becomes more critical with filthy fish like Goldfish and big Cichlids, and in planted tanks with a lot of decaying vegetation. But as I say, for now, hold off buying another filter. It may well be that 'vacuuming' the tank a few times will do the trick.>
I don't use carbon in my filter.
<Good.>
Thanks,
-Melissa
<Cheers, Neale.>

Filter Intake, FW  9/26/07
I have a 2.5 gallon tank that I have a Crown Tail Betta in. I just added 2 zebra danios today.
I noticed one had gone missing a few hours after I put them in the tank.
<Eaten?>
I looked around, he was gone. No little body floating, nothing. I have a Whisper filter with the top of the water almost level so I looked into my filter and found my fish! At first I thought he might have swam into the filter, so I took out a little water, but he was on the back side of the filter. I'm thinking that he either swam up the intake part of the filter, or he was sucked in. Is there any sort of cover that I can place to keep him from swimming/getting sucked into it again? (If he does it again, I may not find him until its too late!) Or do I need to get a different type of filter? This is the filter that came with the tank set up. Thanks.
<Mmm... most outside powerfilters have such screens... on their intakes... Are the Danios so small they can fit in anyway? I would cut, fix a piece of plastic screen door material over the existing intake if so... likely with a zip-tie/panduit. Bob Fenner>
I might want to clarify what kind of whisper filter I have: it is an In-take filter. Right now I put some of my gravel closer to the intake, so maybe they wont wander under there!
<Maybe...>

Filtration and oxygen, FW    7/17/07
Hi, guys.
<<Tom here.>>
Quick question.
<<Okay. (I’ll have one for you when I close. ;) >>
I have installed a second filter on my 55 gallon discus tank, in order to allow it to mature before my new and larger tank comes.
<<I like your thinking. Excellent move!>>
My primary filter is an Eheim 2026 (rated up to 92 gallons) and the new one is an Emperor 400.
<<The Emperor won’t take long to establish and nice choice.>>
I plan to run them both together for a month before placing them both on the new 90 gallon aquarium.
<<Again, good planning!>>
Here is my question: I have a bubble bar in the aquarium. Should I remove it since the HOB filter should provide some oxygenation of the water?
<<Nope. The more, the better. Oxygen in the tank is at a “premium”. Unless utility costs are an issue, I’d keep it going.>>
I do not intend to allow the water level in the aquarium to fall enough for the water coming off of the Emperor to make much splash/noise.
<<Got one myself. The “noise factor”, in my opinion, is vastly over-stated (if you read the reviews). Switched it out from a large Aqua-Clear model (a very good filter), which made a heck of a lot more “water” noise. Just me, perhaps, but I don’t think you’ll be disappointed…in the least!>>
Thank you for your reply!
<<You’re welcome. (Now, two things. I like to know who I’m talking to, first of all. Second, there’s a SHIFT key on your keyboard that’s used to capitalize letters that are meant to be capitalized. “Old school”, perhaps, but we have to proofread AND answer questions before submitting them. Your question, and our responses, go on the Web for everyone in the world (including those who might not have English as their “first” language) to read. ‘Nuff said. ;) ) Tom>>

How often should filter cartridges be cleaned/replaced – 05/21/07
Dear Crew,
<Nicole.>
I have what is likely a silly question about filtration, but I've been puzzling on it for a while and I can't seem to figure it out.  I have a 10 gal tank with a Tetra Whisper Power filter, and my question is this:  the manufacturer's instructions suggest changing the cartridges once per month, but if I throw out the cartridge, won't I be throwing out the beneficial bacteria that are growing on it? <You are right.>
How long will it take the bacteria to re-establish themselves in the new cartridge <A few days, many will be left in the substrate and on the decorations.>, and will this be harmful to the stability of my tank? <It could, if you’d also clean decorations and substrate.> Should I just be rinsing the cartridges out <Yes, just rinse the cartridges as soon as you recognize water flow to become significantly weaker or when water just overflows the tube like chamber. Those cotton or foam like materials can last for several years, only wool in other models needs to be replaced more often.> and replacing the carbon instead of changing them every month? <You do not need to use carbon at all. New activated carbon will only be good for one or two weeks. It’s only useful in specific cases e.g. to help removing some chemicals such as remedies or certain toxins. It needs to be introduced fresh to your filter in such cases.>
Thanks in advance for your help, my tank is going along so well and I just don't want to mess it up! Nicole. <You are welcome. Have fun with your tank. Marco.>

Quiet Skilter 250? Skilter Problems 4/12/07
I got a used Skilter 250 (came without box or instructions) in a batch of equipment.  I set it up on a 10 Gal. freshwater tank currently only occupied by 1 P. bridgesii snail, castles, & some live plants (there are fish coming, though). <Generally skimmers do not work in freshwater for various reasons unless the water is very very dirty.  They require the increased surface tension of salt water to maintain the bubbles long enough to work properly, which does not happen in freshwater.> It runs quietly (quiet waterfall noise is quite pleasant, so I'm bidding on another for a similar tank for just a few fish). <Can you cancel your bid?>  But in 2 weeks+, nothing in the cup! <Expected.> I thought, well, the water IS pretty clean...   After reading the posts concerning the Skilter 250, I have to wonder--is there something I have to do, to turn the Protein Skimmer part on?  You are probably ROTFL right now, but I didn't notice a separate switch... Please advise.
Linda Willis
<Your problem is that skimmers just don't work in freshwater, and the Skilter in particular have a reputation of not working in salt water either.>
<Chris>

Impossible <Marineland> Filter Cartridge – 3/26/07
Hello.
<Hi.>
I am a new tank owner and I need to change my filter. Stupid me didn't buy replacement cartridges when I bought the filter. That was two hours away from my home. Now, I can't find the cartridges even on line. I bought a Deluxe AQUA-Tech power filter and it says to use EZ-Change #1 Filter Cartridges. I can't find them anywhere.
<I’m not seeing much out there either.  Perhaps not a current model.  Hmmm.>
I know AQUA-Tech is made by Marineland and I still can't figure out which filters will work. Can you please help me?
<Marineland changed their size designations recently to Rite-Size, complete with color-coding.  So some of the older sizes might have new and improved designations.  I would measure the old filter cartridge and go to a more convenient pet store and try to match the size in the new designations.  Or call Marineland customer service.  Their info is listed on their website www.marineland.com.>
Thank you for your time.
Jennifer
<Welcome. Alex>

Siporax in power filter question, FW ap.      2/23/07
Crew-
<Michael>
I hope all is well. I'm writing today with a few questions regarding the placement of Siporax beads. Specifically, I'm setting up a 15-gallon freshwater dwarf puffer tank. I'm using an Aquaclear Mini (100 gph) for filtration. Inside the Aqua clear's media chamber, I'd like to place a Dacron bag filled with Siporax beads for their nitrification and denitrification benefits.
<An excellent idea, proposition>
I plan to cut the sponge in half to increase the volume of Siporax that I can place into the filter. I also plan on using Aqua clear's carbon insert in the media chamber (in between the sponge and the Siporax). My actual question regards exposing the Siporax bag to air when cleaning the filter. Will I be drastically harming the anaerobic population if I transfer the Dacron bag from the filter (through the air) to a small bowl filled with aquarium water (and then back when finished cleaning)?
<Mmm, no... the majority of said anaerobes are located deep within the fractured areas of these sintered glass beads>
I realize that the anaerobic colony resides in the anoxic "innards" of the beads (devoid of oxygen), but I have no idea if air will penetrate these regions during such a transfer. Any help is always greatly appreciated. Also, if you feel that my placement of media should be rearranged in any way (in terms of order), I value your advice.
Thanks,
Mike
<Likely little issue here... I would avoid much in the way of rinsing such media... Bob Fenner>

Filter Recommendations - 02/11/2007
Hey Chuck, we were speaking about power filters yesterday.  I just went and purchased the penguin (bio-wheel) HOB power filter.  The Emperor was
a bit out of my price range but I was wondering how you feel about BioWheels?
< I love them. I think they are a great asset to any aquarium filter. If they had them for air driven filters I would have them on them too.>
I am using this on an overstocked 75g African Cichlid tank as an addition to my Rena Filstar Xp3.  The Aquaclear is within my price range compared to the Emperor so now I am considering buying one of those for my 55g.  I never realized until just now that the media in the Aquaclear is much like a wet dry filter.  Is the Aquaclear filtration setup more effective than the bio wheel setup, or are they similar? Also, which is the most quiet between the Penguin and the Aquaclear? Thanks a lot. Jason McCorry
< The limiting factor to biological filtration is oxygen. That is why the Bio-wheels are out of the water. They are probably the most efficient media for bacteria to grow on.-Chuck>

Filter Choices, FW power   2/12/07
Hey Chuck, just a follow up.  After reading your email regarding the Penguin filter I went and returned it.  Still, the Emperor is way out of my price range (strictly because it's only an add-on filter for an already powerful canister).  So I went and bought the Hagen Aquaclear 110 (pumps 500gph), do you think this is a better choice than the Penguin?
< It does not have a Bio-Wheel so I think you will be missing out on some of the biological filtration it would have provided. The Hagen is fine. Lots of water movement with very good mechanical filtration.>
I've read a lot of reviews on this filter, but what's your opinion on it?  Where does it stand in ranking amongst the Emporer etc.?
Thanks Chuck
< I am still a big fan of the Marineland filters with the Bio-wheel attachments. I have had them run for many many years without any problems. The Hagen filters are good I just do not have any recent hands on experience with them.-Chuck>