FAQs on Freshwater Aquarium Hang-on Power Filtration Related Articles: Freshwater Filtration, Power Filter Impressions,  A review of some popular mechanical filtration systems by Steven Pro, Setting up a Freshwater Aquarium, Tips for Beginners,  Related FAQs: Internal Power Filters, Freshwater Filtration, Know Your Filter Media, A Concise Guide to Your Options by Neale Monks, Biological Filtration, Establishing Cycling, FW Sponge Filters, FW Canister Filters, Chemical Filtrants, Predatory livestock need bigger filtration. Butis butis... an Eleotrid of interest.

Filter Set-up... Hang on, FW...   9/14/09
Hi WWM Crew,
<Audra,>
I have two 350 Penguin BioWheel filters on my 55 gallon aquarium, which has 4 cichlids, 3 tetras and a Bushynose Pleco. Each filter has two compartments and a total of 4 cartridge slots.
Filter A - Front slots have a poly filter pad attached to a cartridge frame only (no carbon or pad). The pad faces away from the BioWheel. The back slots have filter baskets filled with crushed coral to maintain my PH, which is 7.2, the other water parameters are Nitrite=0, Nitrate=0, Ammo=0.
Filter B - Front slots have a poly filter pad set-up and the back slots are stuffed with filter floss.
My question is, should I have a poly pad blocking the water flowing through my crushed coral set-up?
<Makes no difference. Despite the hype (and the premium price) Poly Filter pads are mostly carbon and zeolite, and that's why they remove organic compounds and ammonia. There's some stuff in there that removes chlorine and copper, too. But really, there's nothing in them of any great value, and off the top of my head I can't think of any compelling reason to buy them.>
Could this interfere with the buffering?
<No. Poly Filter pads will have zero impact on the dissolution of carbonate and bicarbonate salts into the water.>
I use poly pads because I love how crystal clear my tanks are. I have had to replace the crushed coral every other month because I notice the PH drops a little. Since I do (2) 20% water changes a week, monthly gravel siphoning and water testing, I am not sure what is causing the PH drop.
<pH drops for multiple reasons, ranging from organic decay through to the accumulation of nitrate and phosphate in the water.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWsubwebindex/fwsoftness.htm
pH will tend to be stable in tanks with high carbonate hardness. Small pH changes are of no great significance, so assuming your fish were happy, I'd not worry overmuch. Water changes should reset the pH drop.>
Your thoughts?
AL
<Cheers, Neale.>

how many fish, stkg. FW I have a 55 gallon tank & here's the fish I have so far 2 leleupi 2 black skirt tetra 2 swordtails 2 platys 2 pepper Corys 1 Oranda (or looks like one) 12 neon tetras <Quite the collection! The Leleupi will eat the Neons when they get big enough, even putting aside their rather difference water chemistry requirements.> is that enough or can i add more that will be compatible with the others? And I need a site that carries bio filters because the tank didn't have that with it. <What do you mean a "site that carries bio filters"? You want to buy one? Most anything should be a biological filter at some level, from plain vanilla air-powered sponge filters through to external canister filters. I happen to rate the Eheim "classic" canister filters as being (by far) the most reliable, long-term investments, and something like the Eheim 2217 would do a good job here. But a properly maintained undergravel filter can be superb biological filter even though it can't be used alongside plants that have roots. Many options. If you'd like to suggest a budget and what sort of features you're looking for, we can discuss further.> it had the charcoal filter but not the other. <Activated carbon is hardly essential, so wouldn't use the presence/absence of carbon in a filter to sway my opinion between two filter models.> Any help would be great Angels on your pillows, Judy <Cheers, Neale.> re: how many fish... Chatting   09/14/09 okay they are the plastics that hang on the back---I have a dual air pump with long bubbler & a small round one in the corner . <A very popular filter design in the US; much less so in Europe.> I'm sending pics of my tank & maybe this would help you. <Yes, does.> I like the undergravel filter but didn't know ,again was told I didn't need to use that. <The filter you have should be adequate, assuming sufficient size/turnover. While you are talking about the carbon in this filter, there is almost certainly a biological filter in this unit too. Look for things like spinning wheels, sponges, and/or modules containing ceramic noodles. I'm not aware of any filter of this type that contains just carbon and has no option for any other. One other thing. Carbon only works as carbon for the first couple of weeks. After that, it becomes essentially biological media. In practise, you need to replace carbon every two weeks. (Yet another reason why it is largely redundant.) It's possible that one or more of the filter medium compartments of your filter have been filled with carbon, even though other types of media, like a sponge or ceramic noodles, would be more appropriate. If you can find a manufacturers name and model number on this filter, we can discuss more. A photo of the filter from above, so I can see its "innards" would also be helpful.> I know you cant see the fish but what i think is an Oranda is because it looks like one it maybe just a regular gold fish the only one in the tank. <Sure it's a nice fish either way.> Cant wait till I can get to the pet store & check out all that you have sent me. A thank you is not enough for all your help Hugs & Smiles Judy <Happy to help. Cheers, Neale.> re: how many fish... FW maint. f'  09/15/09 Here's the pic of the pump the other is just like it the blue is what has the carbon in it. <So the blue things are like cushions, with blue on the outside, and the carbon inside?> I know there's suppose to be a plastic thing with a sponge or something else that goes with it. <Not familiar with this filter, but there should be one or more plain sponges that slot in there somewhere. Yes, if you need one, and there's one for this filter, then buy one. At a pinch, stuffing some filter floss into the empty space (if that's what it is) behind the two blue things would work. Don't stuff so much in water flow drops significantly. You can buy generic bags of the stuff for very little money, and if you rinse it in buckets of aquarium water every couple of weeks, it shouldn't need to be replaced too often. Once it's too dirty to clean, replace no more than 50% at any one time, and allow not less than 6 weeks before you replace any more.> But if I don't need the carbon could I just find bio material to put inside the pumps? <Wouldn't worry too much right now. The carbon is actually a pretty good medium for bacteria, and once you've added the sponge (or floss) for the compartment behind the two blue things, the bacteria will spread from the blue things into the new filter media. Unless you really want carbon to be adsorbing organic material from the water, feel free to let it become 100% biological filter media. No harm done at all. Just remove as/when you use medications that need carbon to be removed, just in case.> The picture maybe be big forgot to resize it. Want you be glad when I leave you alone??? <I'm happy to help.> Angels on your pillows, Judy <Hope this helps, Neale.>

Tape in the Aquarium, power filter repair  6/17/09
Hello Crew, hope all is going well for you. I have a question, please. I wanted to know if there was any kinds of tape that would be OK to use for items inside an aquarium. I have 2 intake openings on my power filter intake tubes. The top ones had a little "door" that opened and closed to that one could use the filter with 2 intakes or one, depending on if the little door was open or closed. Both of these little doors have broken (they were made cheap) and I want to be able to close up the top opening again because I feel it more beneficial to have one strong suction using the bottom intake only rather than 2 that are not as strong. I want to cover the top openings again and was thinking about some type of tape.
Please let me know what you think. Thanks, James
<Mmm, the fibered "strapping tape" might work here... I have seen it employed underwater. Otherwise, you might have success with "globbing" on a bit of Silastic (Silicone Rubber), 100%, suitable for aquarium use (no mildewcide)... Bob Fenner>

Filter paint   2/18/09
Hello Crew,
Hope all is going well for you today. I would like to know if you are aware of a type of paint or tape that might be used safely inside a fw aquarium. The emperor 400 filter intake tubes on my filters have been redesigned and not have a white sliding piece that can be opened or closed, depending if you want the filter to take in detritus from both the bottom and the middle. I cannot disguise this white piece no matter what I do and it stands out, especially against my black background. If you know of any way I could disguise this please let me know.
Thank you,
James
<James, I'm not familiar with the US market for these types of products, but I'd expect any enamel sold for use on cookware to be safe in an aquarium. Failing that, just let algae cover the darn thing. That won't take long! Cheers, Neale.>

Advice on power filter size, FW  1/31/09
Good evening,
I looked around the site and there seems to be many different thoughts on filter size and the number of turn over for a 20 gallon tank.
I am starting a FW tank for my daughter (almost 2). It is a 20 gallon tall tank.
It will probably be set up as a community tank. I will be using a gravel bottom with silk plants. I have narrowed it down to 3 filters but I am wondering if 2 of them could be overkill. The filters are Marineland Penguin 150 or 200 ( I like the idea of having the 2nd filter slot on the 200). I am also thinking about the Marineland Emperor 280. The 280 has the ability to add additional filter material, 2 level intake and the spray bar. My concern is that the 200 or the 280 might be too much for a 20 gallon tank.
Thank you for the advice. I am really looking forward to get the tank up and running. I will cycle it properly first.
Brad
<Hi Brad. The basic rule of thumbs are these: First, ignore what's on the box. A filter that says it is suitable for a 20 gallon tank is only suitable for such a tank under the best circumstances. It's a marketing ploy akin to telling you your motor car will do 45 miles to the gallon, or a box of cereal contains 25 servings. Yes, if the car is rolling downhill somewhere without traffic or lights, and yes, if each cereal serving is two tablespoons in size. Likewise filters are "rated" by their manufacturers assuming the filter media is clean, the fish are few, and most importantly, the filter is put in the optimal position, at the level of the aquarium.
Things like canister filters are usually put under the tank to hide them away, and this isn't the optimal position for them. Having to work against gravity, the filter moves water more slowly. Now, here's some more thoughts. "Tall" tanks are bad value. The critical thing with aquaria is the surface area to volume ratio. Tall tanks score poorly here, and a 20 gallon "tall" tank will hold fewer fish safely than a 20 gallon "long" tank. There is absolutely no advantage to keeping a 20-gallon tall tank unless you're into landscaping, when the tall tank lends itself to fancy arrangements of plants and rocks. Otherwise, avoid. Secondly, if you're not using live plants, then consider an undergravel filter. These are good value, easy to set up, easy to maintain, and extremely effective. Thirdly, the thing to consider with filters is turnover. For small fish (Neons and guppies for example) the baseline value is 4 times the volume of the tank, in your case the filter should have not less than 4 x 20 = 80 gallons per hour. For bigger fish (gouramis and angels) you would up this to 6 times the volume of the tank, i.e., 6 x 20 = 120 gallons per hour. Beyond that, it doesn't much matter what filter you use. I will make the observation that hang-on-the-back filters have serious shortcomings, not least of all the fact they lock you into buying specific media inserts that are wildly overpriced for what they are (think of the way razor blade manufacturers make money by each having their own type of razor blades). Personally, I dislike hang-on-the-back filters enormously and can't see why people buy them, though for some reason they are very popular in the US. You rarely see them here in the UK. Canister filters have their pros and cons.
Internal canister filters are very easy to maintain and flexible in terms of media, but in small tanks are difficult to hide behind rocks or plants.
External canister filters are by far the best value, provide strong water currents, and contain lots and lots of space for media, but they can be a hassle to maintain. Still, they're the filters of choice for most experienced hobbyists. Finally, do think carefully about stocking, and bear in mind you're setting up this aquarium for you, not your daughter. A two-year old will enjoy fish, yes, but she's not going to maintain the thing for another eight years! Take care to buy fish that appeal to you, but also ones that realistically fit into this tank, especially with regard to sharing similar requirements in terms of temperature and water chemistry. Do take a look at some of the articles presented in the top "box" here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwlvstkind1.htm
Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Advice on power filter size 1/31/09
Neale,
<Brad,>
Thank you for the response.
A long story made short, the tank and hood/light ( A Eclipse Light) were a gift. Given the space and area for the tank going to a bigger tank would be hard to fit.
<Nothing wrong with your 20-gallon tank. It's a good starting point!>
That being said, I would like to keep things as simple as can be. I appreciate your summary of flow in filters and it has allowed me to make my decision. I did some further reading today and hope to have the tank up and cycling over the next few days.
<How? Do remember a tank devoid of animal life or a source of ammonia isn't cycling. It's just a glorified bucket of water. I'd recommend adding ammonia, either by putting a pinch of food each day (it rots, making ammonia) or else using a few drops of ammonia solution per gallon added to get a level of 4-5 mg/l (or ppm) in the water (determine with a test kit first time around, then repeat that amount daily). Once you detect zero ammonia and zero nitrite for 5 days, you're cycled!>
Then in a few weeks onto a few fish. I am sure I will have many questions over the next months. Thank you again for the information.
Brad
P.S. I understand that the tank really is for me but I will enjoy the care and time that it will take to set up and maintain a proper tank as well as the smile and "Fish" that my daughter will be pointing and signing.
<All sounds good. Children and animals are a good combination, but does need forethought. Good luck to you both, Neale.>

Filter media placement in HOB filter, FW  1/26/09
Hello WWM crew,
<Hello Audra.>
My 30 hexagon is a new tank that is about 80% cycled (no fish in it). It was used as a quarantine tank for 2 weeks before I moved the fish in it to their permanent home.
My question is, in what order should I place the media in my AquaClear 70 filter? Instead of using the foam that comes with it, I'd like to use a flat filter pad. I understand these save space and work well to remove toxins and debris from the water.
<Not all do, Polyfilters and some of the recent copies do.>
I have to add crushed coral, carbon (when needed) and biological media. Is crushed coral considered a chemical media?
<No, biological, maybe a mechanical in the right setting. You plan to put the crushed coral in the filter? If in the tank do consider a smaller grain media, the larger crushed coral ends up serving as a detritus collector, a nitrate factory.>
I'm concerned about it being in the same filter with my bio media. There's not much surface space in the tank, so I hope my filter is an option.
<Hmmm, any plans for a protein skimmer? This will help you out both with the aeration and filtration of this system.>
Audra
<Scott V.>

Re: Filter media placement in HOB filter...Scott V. actually getting it this time 1/27/09
Hi Scott V., thanks for the quick response.
<Welcome....I guess.>
The filter pad I'm using is a Polyfilter. My 30 gallon hexagon set-up consists of a bubble disk, small airstone, some plastic plants, the AquaClear 70 filter, and a sponge filter. Both filters are sufficient for 60+ gallon tanks.
Aren't protein skimmers used in marine or saltwater tanks? I have freshwater.
<Skimmers are for marine tanks, I do apologize. It does change things a bit. After answering so many marine queries you start to think everything has salt in it!>
My PH is very hard but low alkaline, so the crushed coral is to buffer the water.
<I see.>
I've used it in the natural gravel before, but I didn't like the results.
Can I place the media in my filter as follows: Polyfilter, crushed coral bag, carbon and then bio media?
<Certainly.>
I probably could put the bio media bag in the Penguin filter instead.
Your thoughts?
<Either could work, I would go whichever route forces more water through the media itself, not around it. Sorry again for the mix up, Scott V.>

Power Filter Placement   1/6/09
Hello Crew,
I have tried to research this but can't find anything about it.. I have 2 aqua clear 100 filters and a 75 gallon tank 48" long. I wanted to know if you have ever know of anyone to place the filters on the sides of the tank instead of the back. Thank you for all you do.
James
<With any filter, the idea is to optimise circulation throughout the tank.
In particular, you want water from the bottom being pulled up to the top.
By default, if you have two filters, put one at each end. Whether on the sides or spaced out along the back pane of glass shouldn't make much difference. Test circulation by adding a pinch of flake at the bottom of the tank, and seeing how quickly, and how far, it gets pushed about.
Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Power Filter Placement   1/6/09
Thank you again Neale. And one more question please. I just finished setting up my aquarium (finally) and have a sand bottom. When it comes time for maintenance I planned on using a turkey baster to blow off the rocks and plants and also the top of the sand itself to get the detritus into the water column. Rather than letting the detritus go into my power filter do you know of a good small filter that would take care of cleaning it up. I had thought about the Magnum HOT hang on filter but wanted your opinion please. Have a great day. James
<James, a turkey baster is a great way to spot clean the tank. Otherwise, your standard filtration should be keeping the sediment basically clean: if it isn't, that means it isn't adequate for the job. Think about it - any still water on the bottom of the tank isn't being carried up to the surface of the aquarium. That means there's no oxygen getting down there, putting your bottom dwelling fish at risk. Realistically what tends to happen in a properly filtered tank is that there's much water movement, but the silt collects in one particular corner thanks to the pattern of water flow. In this case, your turkey baster (or a water change, weekly) will remove the silt. External canister filters are ideal for this because you can have the inlet positioned quite close to the sediment. You can also, if required, locate the outlet well below the surface of the water. So if you have more than one external canister filter, you can create lots of different water currents. Otherwise, just making sure you have at least 4 times the volume of the tank in turnover should ensure adequate circulation. Personally, I prefer to go with 6-10 times the volume of the tank in turnover per hour, but that does assume fish from riverine rather than still water conditions.
Cheers, Neale.>

Water Flow Too Powerful    12/18/08
Hello,
I have a 30 long tank with just 3 mollies and about a dozen fry. My penguin 350 is too powerful for my fry to handle. However, it is ideal for the load of fish I plan to fill this tank with in the next 3 months. The fry will eventually be moved to a 30 hexagon to grow up in but I haven't started the set-up for this tank yet. In the meantime, is there a way to slow down the output water flow without compromising the efficiency of the filter? This is how I'd like to stock the 30 long:
2 Black Mollies (already in tank)
2 Silver Mollies
2 Cremecicle Mollies (1 already in tank)
2 High Fin Swordtails
2 Red Wag Platies
2 Rams
3 Corys
Can my filter handle this bioload, without the fry?
Audra
<Try directing the outflow from the filter towards the glass instead of into the tank; the current will disperse, and the fish will be less "pushed about". Some of your fish enjoy strong water currents though, in particular the Swordtails and Corydoras, so they won't care. As your research should hopefully reveal, Mollies usually do best in tanks where salt is added, and while the Platies and Swords won't mind, the Corydoras and the Rams may well do. On the other hand, Rams need very warm (28-30 degree C) conditions, and that's much too hot for Swordtails, Platies and Corydoras.
Keep the Rams too cold and they'll get sick and die. (Actually, most commercially bred Rams die within weeks anyway, and they're a fish I simply don't recommend unless you're able to buy locally bred or wild caught stock.) So over time you'll likely want to spread out your stock into tanks best suited to the needs of these various fish -- while they might be fine now, by imposing on the preferences of each species, you increase the odds of disease and poor health. For now, I'd SERIOUSLY consider keeping JUST livebearers in this one tank, maintained at about 25 C (77 F) and with a little salt added (say, 3-6 grammes of marine salt mix -- not tonic salt -- per litre of water). This will suit Mollies, Guppies, Platies and Swordtails. There are various salt-tolerant fish you could add, about which we can discuss another time. But since you're still stocking the tank, I'd heartily recommend choosing carefully now, rather than trying to fix problems later. By the way, all Mollies cross-breed, so if you want a single "sort" of Molly fry that you can share or sell back to pet stores, keep JUST ONE variety in the tank. Pet stores don't really want "mutt"
Mollies that aren't any one variety, and after a while you'll be fed up with housing hundreds of fish you can't sell. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Water Flow Too Powerful  12/18/08
Thank you, Neale, for your feedback. I'll take everything you said into consideration.
<Audra, I'm happy to help. When planning an aquarium, it's wise to be prudent, and take into account the needs of all your fish. Doing so is the path to easy, low-maintenance, healthy fishkeeping! Just because Rams won't work with Mollies, doesn't mean you can't keep *any* dwarf cichlids. Consider Etroplus maculatus for example, or one of the Pelvicachromis species such as P. taeniatus. Get back in touch if you want some more ideas. Cheers, Neale.>

Nano Powerheads and discus filters!  12/3/08
Hey crew!
I have a couple of questions for you today regarding two of my tanks!
First for my discus tank:
I have a 55 gallon planted discus tank with 4 discus, 2 Cory Cats, 10 or so Neons, 5 SAEs, 4 Bolivian Rams and 3 Otos that has been running smoothly for 6 months now. I am using a Marineland T5 48" Deluxe canopy with one of the actinics replaced with another 10000k bulb. I have an Emperor 400 Bio Wheel filter, along with two Top Fin filters (a 20 and a 40). These were mainly used to boost the bacteria when the tank was cycling (I used them on my old tank), but I haven't removed it. I would like to phase out these filters and place another Bio Wheel 400.
What do you guys think about this?
<I'm not a huge fan of hang-on-the-back filters because of their limited flexibility and the fact the inlet and outlet are so close together. For some reason they're popular in the US though; you hardly ever see them in Europe. Anyway, if you have two, and position one at each end, should work out okay. But I'd sooner spend the money on a standard external canister filter that allows you more flexibility in terms of mechanical and biological media options. Whatever you do, so long as the combined filtration offers at least 4 times the volume of the tank in turnover per hour, you should be fine. I'd personally veto the Otocinclus though:
Otocinclus need cool, fast flowing water -- the total opposite of what Discus require. Moreover, Otocinclus are known "skin suckers" that remove mucous from slow moving fish. I've seen this myself, when keeping them with Awaous gobies. This would be a risky combination with Symphysodon spp. I'd also make the point Otocinclus are gregarious algae eaters, so you'd [a] need more than 3; and [b] would have them competing for food with the Crossocheilus siamensis. So I'd strongly suggest some sort of small Loricariid instead, perhaps Ancistrus or Rineloricaria spp. Cheers, Neale>

Filtering a 55 Gallon Hex, FW  11/17/2008
Hi, I inherited a 55-gallon hexagon fish tank about 6 months ago, and although I've learned way more about keeping fish than I thought possible, now I have some new questions. Most of them concern the filter. I currently have a H.O.T. Magnum filter that hangs on the back of my tank, which was recommended by a friend when I realized that the under gravel filter that the tank came with wasn't doing the best job. While reading up on keeping fish, I ran across something that said you should clean the filter with tap water. What is the best way to clean it?
< I take out the filters sleeves and rinse it out under a strong flow from a garden hose.>
Usually once I month I take the filter off the tank, empty it out, replace the carbon, and wash off all the components inside (the impeller, etc.).
Is there a different way I should be doing it?
< Sounds good to me.>
Also, I never installed the Bio-Wheel that it came with. I've read that they're great. Can I still put it on with the filter?
< A hex makes the logistics somewhat challenging for installing the Bio-wheel attachment. It is worth the effort to attach the bio-wheel if you don't mind the noise it may create.>
Will the tank be adversely affected or have to cycle through again?
< The bacteria needed for biological filtration will eventually grow on the Bio-Wheel. If your tank is fine now then adding the Bio-Wheel will only increase the biological stability of your set up.>
The H.O.T. Magnum filter can be a little tricky for me to get back together correctly every time, and I'm thinking of getting a new filter that's easier. Is there one you would recommend?
< I agree that all types of canister filters can be a pain to service. Look at the Marineland brand of hang on types of power filters. They have the Bio-Wheel built in but can be somewhat noisy.. Make sure that it will fit on the lip of your tank.>
And if I do get a new filter, will I destroy all the beneficial bacteria in the tank?
< Every time you clean your filter you essentially remove most of the bacteria. The bacteria are probably established in the gravel.>
I don't want to kill any fish by doing something dumb.
< Do a water change when you change the filters and watch for ammonia spikes. Don't vacuum the gravel for awhile because that will remove the bacteria you need until the filter gets set up.>
Finally, I always add the Stress Coat at the end of the water change. I add the tap water and then add the Stress Coat to the tank. Is that an ok way of doing it?
< Ideally the new water is in a separate container and the water conditioner is added to the container and allowed a few minutes to neutralize the toxins in the water. If your water is pretty good and you do small water changes your method would probably be OK.>
I don't have a large enough container to add the Stress Coat to the water before putting it in the tank. So when I add the Stress Coat, I add enough for the entire tank (5 ML per 10 gallons of aquarium water, so I add a little less than 30 ML).
< Overdosing the Stress Coat probably doesn't do much good. A good plastic 5 gallon bucket can be obtained at almost any hardware store.>
Thanks so much for all your help! This has been a little more complicated than I thought! Melissa
< Thanks for the questions.-Chuck>

Filter Question, Hang-on, FW designs  9/1/08
Dear WWM Crew,
<Jean,>
I am interested in purchasing two new filters. I already have two Whisper Power Filters. One is for a 10 gallon tank and the other is for a 6.6 gallon tank. The 10 gallon tank holds four Danios and two Albino Catfish.
<In my opinion, too small for both Danio rerio and Corydoras paleatus; you're not going to see either species at its best without more space... so would invest in a 20 gallon tank before spending money on new filters. Definitely more worthwhile. Danios should be kept in groups of six or more specimens; in smaller groups they won't school properly and you have a serious risk of individual fish "going rogue" and becoming nippy. Corydoras paleatus (which is what the Albino Catfish is almost certainly) is another gregarious species that is shy unless kept in largish groups. Neither species will be truly happy in groups of 2-4 specimens.>
The 6.6 gallon tank will be holding one Betta Fish and possibly one or two Albino Catfish. Is a Bio Wheel Filter better than a regular power filter? And is a Bio Wheel Filter worth purchasing even if I already own two Whisper Power Filters? Also, is there any advantage in using a Bio Wheel Filter versus a power filter? Thanks for your help - Jean
<No great advantage to either design. I'm not a big fan of "hang on the back" filters for various reasons (poor mechanical filtration, gaps in hood allow jumpy fish to escape, many designs are based around filter "modules" that waste space and limit options). By default, external canister filters or decent quality internal filters are my choices. I always go for designs that let me choose what media I can use, and never ones with "modules" that can only be assembled in one particular configuration. For example a filter that insists on having a carbon or ammonia-remover insert is a poor choice because neither media type is essential or even useful in the average freshwater tank. Mostly these filters are poor value for money and aimed at newbie fishkeepers. I'd sooner have a plain vanilla air-powered box filter I can stuff with ceramic noodles and filter floss than a more expensive, but likely less effective, Whisper Power Filter of greater cost rated for the same size tank. Finally, do concentrate on turnover rather than other fancy features: for your small community fish, you want a turnover of not less than 4 times the volume of the tank. In other words, a 20 gallon tank would need a filter rated at 80 gallons per hour (GPH). Everything else, bio-wheels, spray bars, and other such things are, at best, gimmicks. The only things that truly matter are how much media (of your choice) the filter holds; and how often the water moves through that media. The rest is marketing! Cheers, Neale.>

Aquarium filtration is about to change. Advert./info. announcement from Tetra - 7/2/08
Innovation Changes Everything
You're invited to an exclusive preview of the next revolution in aquarium filtration.
The soon- to-be-released Whisper[R] EX Filtration Systems from Tetra combine eight new patent-pending technologies, new materials and a complete redesign. The result? A new standard in aquarium filtration technology. 
* Sleeker, quieter and more efficient.
* New patented carbon filter carrier makes filter changes fast, clean and easy.
* Exclusive Timestrip[R] technology takes the guesswork out of when to change your filter.
* Easier to use. Whisper[R] EX is ready to go right out of the box.
To experience the next generation in aquarium filtration now, click here.
http://www.tetra-fish.com/sites/TetraFish/aquarium/AquariumContentTwoColumn.aspx?id=2416
<Nice graphic, ideas... Wish I were receiving monies for the cartridge replacements. Bob Fenner>

Emperor 400 Microbubbles 4/12/08
Hello crew. I am hoping for your help. I am getting micro-bubbles from emperor 400. Makes the tank look cloudy. Any recommendations on how to fix this problem? Thank you. Phil
<Generally keeping your water level at or near the level of the filter return will eliminate or at the very least greatly reduce the bubble issue. You may need to top off the water daily…price we pay for keeping aquariums! Welcome, hope this helps, Scott V.>

How to Fix a Whisper Filter 4/7/08
Hey Crew,
<Hello.>
I haven't seen this information on the Web so I just wanted to pass it along to you. Recently, my Whisper HOB filter stopped working. The motor was still spinning, but it was not drawing water up the tube. I was feeling adventurous and decided to repair it with %100 success. Here's what I did:
This will repair most any non-functioning Whisper Filter
The problem is most likely that your Impeller has become detached from the magnet cylinder that spins it...The impeller still spins, but not like it should....The following is a (poorly made) ASCII Drawing of an impeller:

D <--End Cap
l
I I I I I I <--Impeller Head
WW <--White Plastic Shaft
-------- <--Top White Round Cap
MMM
MMM
MMM <--Magnet
MMM
MMM
-------- <--Bottom White Round Cap
l
l <--Metal Pin (it actually goes all the way through the whole impeller)
D <--End Cap

Basically, you need to silicone the "Top White Round Cap Back" onto the Magnet. Use a proper silicone, %100, no mildew-icide...Put something like an elastic or loose fitting vise-grips onto the newly siliconed joint, and let sit for 24 hours.
Cheers
<Thank you for sharing this tip, it will be passed along for the benefit of others. Nice diagram, Scott V.>

Filter Recommendations - 02/06/07
I forwarded my last email to you, below is what I sent.  Just to elaborate on that, I was looking into penguin, Emperor and whisper hang-on power filters.  So pretty much it was between those unless you have a better one to recommend.  Currently my Rena does 350gph, how many more gph would I need for an overstocked 75g African tank?
Thanks again Bob I appreciate it.
<The Penguin and Emperor filter lines are both made by the same company, Marineland. Go with an Emperor 400. Has Bio-wheels and overflow when it needs serviced. Nice filter. When you get tired or cleaning on the Rena you will really appreciate the Emperor. The best filter is the one you will clean the most often.-Chuck>

Airstones inside H.O.T. filters? 1/15/08
Hello, Brando here.
<Hello.>
I have a 90 gal. Malawi cichlid tank- 1 acei, 3 red peacock, 1 albino ice blue, 2 yellow labs, 2 red zebra, 1 jewel, 1 CAE, 1 African lace cat.
<Quite an interesting collection!>
Filtration is 2 TopFin 60 H.O.T. filters.
<OK.>
I have always used carbon as the filter media, however I am considering switching out the carbon for a different media.
<A no-brainer: do it. Carbon doesn't have any significant benefit in freshwater tanks. All carbon does is remove dissolved organics, which 25-50% water changes per week will be taking care of anyway. On the downside, carbon is wasting space that could be used for better biological media that would actually help water quality, or mechanical media that would improve water clarity. In a Malawi cichlid tank, even the use of a calcareous substrate, like crushed coral, would be more useful for its pH-buffering, KH-raising effects.>
The TopFin 60 is a dual-well filter and I have two of them on the tank. Should I replace the media all at once, or should I do just one side of each filter to avoid any sudden changes?
<All at once. Then take the carbon out to the garden, and ceremonially burn it, to signify your rejection of Stone Age fishkeeping in favour of the Modern Era.>
What media would you recommend?
<Anything would be better. Depends on what you're after. As noted above, a calcareous substrate would be useful. But if you're going for better water quality, then a decent ceramic media like Siporax wouldn't be a bad choice.>
Also, would it be wise to place airstones into the bottoms of these filters (so that bubbles rise up through and around the cotton pouches which hold the media) to supply more oxygen to the media?
<Worth a shot. Certainly can't hurt. But if those filters already are open to the air and have water sluicing across the media, then the bacteria may well have all the oxygen they need. In which case placing the airstones in the tank to improve water circulation might be a better use of resources.>
Thank you so much,
Brand
<Cheers, Neale.>

Canister vs. Hang-on, FW     01/13/2008
I have been looking at your site, and have seen filtration questions answered differently. My tank is a 30 gallon with a H.O.T.. Magnum and a double bio-wheel by Marineland. Not many fish as to an ammonia spike. I have a Fluval 304 and a Fluval 404 that I could use. My question is-Canister vs. Hang-On. Would I be better off using one of the canisters? Someone told me the Bio-Wheel is not a good choice, and others say it is. Could you please give me your opinion on this. Thank you for your time.
<Greetings. There's no short answer to this: it's a case of "horses for courses". All things being equal, a tropical aquarium needs about 4 times the volume of the tank in turnover per hour when small things like Neons and Guppies are kept; that goes up to about 6 times for larger fish such as Goldfish, and as much as 10 times for sensitive or mess creatures, such as big catfish, marines, Oscars, and so on. So a 100 litre aquarium with small fish needs filtration that equals at least 400 litres of turnover per hour. So far, so good. But not all filters excel at the same things. Canister filters are very good at mechanical filtration. Water is sucked in under pressure, forced through sponges or whatever, and then back into the tank. But because the canister is closed to the atmosphere the only oxygen it gets is through the water, and the bacteria can easily used up this supply as the water goes through the filter media. End result is that canister filters are less effective at biological filtration than filters that are open to the aquarium or open to the air, such as trickle filters or wet-and-dry filters. On the flip side, low-pressure trickle and wet-and-dry filters aren't so good at trapping solid waste. They don't generate much pressure, and the water doesn't pass through much mechanical filter media. Your hang-on-the-back filter is some sort of low-pressure filter, with a pump pulling water quite gently into the box where it sluices through chambers open to the air. That's great for biological filtration, but less good for mechanical filtration. The "ideal" is ultimately about choosing what your fish need most. If you're keeping Goldfish, then mechanical filtration is paramount, since these fish produce a lot of silt, partly as faeces, but also because they root about the bottom of the tank all the time. But if you were keeping marines, where tanks are lightly stocked but the livestock very sensitive to ammonia, then biological filtration is the prime issue. Realistically, provided you adhere to the 4x, 6x, or 10x rules outlined above, it shouldn't matter too much, but one idea to use two types of filter, so that you get the best of both worlds. Hope this helps, Neale.>

Filter intake problems, HOB    11/30/07
Hello WWM folks,
<Hello Melissa,>
I have a 15 gallon freshwater tank that completed its cycle two days ago. It was set up on the 15th of November. I cycled with fish - five blackskirt tetras - and seeded with sponge media from another tank. Yesterday, I did a 50% water change and added three peppered Corys.
<Hmm... a bit small for these species. Your tetras, Gymnocorymbus ternetzi, get to around 5 cm long and are hyperactive little fish. The Corydoras paleatus can get even bigger: I have specimens around the 7 cm mark. So while things might be fine now, I have to confess that I think your tank will be very cramped once these fish grow up. Do also remember that Gymnocorymbus ternetzi is a semi-parasitic fish. It eats the fins and scales from slow-moving fish. It cannot be kept with anything slow-moving, and your Corydoras are likely to get nipped periodically as well. When kept with things with long fins, like Guppies, Angelfish and Gouramis, Gymnocorymbus ternetzi simply shred their fins, resulting in fungal infections and the like. In short, not a community species, despite its wide sale as such.>
However, when I was planting the tank (Vallisneria, water sprite, Anubias and some moss, if it matters), a lot of bits of roots and leaves fell off the plants.
<This happens when plants are moved. They don't like being moved.>
I left these bits in the tank to decompose and help the cycle along.
<Not a very good idea!>
Now that the cycle is over, I've removed the small bits of leaves and roots, but there still remains quite a lot of detritus that I'm pretty sure resulted from the rotting plants. For some reason, my filter doesn't seem to be doing its job in getting rid of this detritus. I don't mean actual pieces of plant, I mean tiny specks of detritus, like dust or dirt.
<Simply means inadequate mechanical filtration. Hang-on filters are especially bad for this, being optimized for biological filtration but providing little to no mechanical filtration.>
I have a HOB filter that filters 450 L/h (my tank is 57 L). I have no dead spots in there as far as I can tell. The detritus circulates around the tank due to the current produced by the filter's waterfall, settles on the leaves of my plants or on my sand substrate, but never actually gets sucked up.
<A common problem with this sort of filter. Your filter is theoretically adequate for biological filtration, but if you're seeing silt in the tank, that's empirical proof that mechanical filtration (removal of solid particles) is inadequate. Two solutions: add more filtration, or do more water changes. Your move.>
I removed the bottom part of the intake tube which seems to have improved the suction. With the entire intake tube intact, I could feel absolutely no suction when I placed my finger at the end of it, but when I removed the bottom part I could feel some very slight suction, but nothing strong enough to take a fish. However, it doesn't seem to be making all that much difference.
<Sounds as if the filter is clogged. Assuming the pump itself is working, take a look at the filter media. As the media gets clogged up, water flow through the filter drops. Solution: clean the media. Biological media can be cleaned a bucket of aquarium water by squeezing it a few times. Mechanical media can be aggressively washed under a running tap. Carbon can be taken out and buried in the garden. You have no need for it in your sort of aquarium. Replace that part of the filter with something like filter wool.>
Obviously this subtracts terribly from the aesthetic value of my tank, but I'm also very worried for my nitrate levels. I fear that with this huge amount of detritus around, my nitrates are going to spike and then I will be faced with a whole host of new problems.
<No... plant detritus is mostly cellulose with little to no protein content (review your biology classes at school, and why carnivores only need to have small meals, but herbivores must graze for hours and hours at a time). So the effect on nitrate is minimal. One flake of flake food probably has more protein than a whole Amazon swordplant! But what silt and plant material will do is block the filter, and once water flow gets too low, the removal of ammonia and nitrite by the bacteria becomes inadequate.>
Any help is deeply appreciated.
Thanks.
-Melissa
<Hope that this helps, Neale.>

Re: Filter intake problems 11/30/07
Hi Neale,
Regarding the maximum size of the fish - I have never heard this before.
<A common problem. This is why investing in an aquarium book is such a good idea. The public library will have many, I'm sure. Always look up the maximum size of fish *before* purchase.>
I was told that I could have up to six Corys in my tank. Thanks for the heads up.
<Ah, depends on the Corydoras. Peppered Corydoras are very tolerant any may be fine enough. My specimens will happily spawn in an 8 gallon tank! But personally, I'd consider a 15 gallon tank a little on the small size for Peppered Corys. Small species, perhaps, but Peppers get to a fair old size when kept properly. Certainly upwards of 5 cm, and potentially around 7 cm.>
What kind of additional filtration do you think I need?
<To start with, I'd just try manual cleaning. Siphon out 50% of the water at a time (what I recommend you do once a week regardless). Put your finger over the spout to 'shoo' away any fish that get too close. Use the siphon like a vacuum cleaner, sucking up detritus as best you can. Assuming the plants are actually thriving and not slowly dying, you should be able to remove all the dead material by doing this. If you want, repeat every day until the tank is spick-and-span.>
I wouldn't have thought my tank needed a canister filter. I washed the filter media, but to no avail.
<Your filter probably just doesn't have much mechanical filtration capacity. Many don't. For small fish in unplanted or lightly planted tanks it really isn't a big deal. Mechanical filtration becomes more critical with filthy fish like Goldfish and big Cichlids, and in planted tanks with a lot of decaying vegetation. But as I say, for now, hold off buying another filter. It may well be that 'vacuuming' the tank a few times will do the trick.>
I don't use carbon in my filter.
<Good.>
Thanks,
-Melissa
<Cheers, Neale.>

Filter Intake, FW  9/26/07
I have a 2.5 gallon tank that I have a Crown Tail Betta in. I just added 2 zebra danios today.
I noticed one had gone missing a few hours after I put them in the tank.
<Eaten?>
I looked around, he was gone. No little body floating, nothing. I have a Whisper filter with the top of the water almost level so I looked into my filter and found my fish! At first I thought he might have swam into the filter, so I took out a little water, but he was on the back side of the filter. I'm thinking that he either swam up the intake part of the filter, or he was sucked in. Is there any sort of cover that I can place to keep him from swimming/getting sucked into it again? (If he does it again, I may not find him until its too late!) Or do I need to get a different type of filter? This is the filter that came with the tank set up. Thanks.
<Mmm... most outside powerfilters have such screens... on their intakes... Are the Danios so small they can fit in anyway? I would cut, fix a piece of plastic screen door material over the existing intake if so... likely with a zip-tie/panduit. Bob Fenner>
I might want to clarify what kind of whisper filter I have: it is an In-take filter. Right now I put some of my gravel closer to the intake, so maybe they wont wander under there!
<Maybe...>

Filtration and oxygen, FW    7/17/07
Hi, guys.
<<Tom here.>>
Quick question.
<<Okay. (I’ll have one for you when I close. ;) >>
I have installed a second filter on my 55 gallon discus tank, in order to allow it to mature before my new and larger tank comes.
<<I like your thinking. Excellent move!>>
My primary filter is an Eheim 2026 (rated up to 92 gallons) and the new one is an Emperor 400.
<<The Emperor won’t take long to establish and nice choice.>>
I plan to run them both together for a month before placing them both on the new 90 gallon aquarium.
<<Again, good planning!>>
Here is my question: I have a bubble bar in the aquarium. Should I remove it since the HOB filter should provide some oxygenation of the water?
<<Nope. The more, the better. Oxygen in the tank is at a “premium”. Unless utility costs are an issue, I’d keep it going.>>
I do not intend to allow the water level in the aquarium to fall enough for the water coming off of the Emperor to make much splash/noise.
<<Got one myself. The “noise factor”, in my opinion, is vastly over-stated (if you read the reviews). Switched it out from a large Aqua-Clear model (a very good filter), which made a heck of a lot more “water” noise. Just me, perhaps, but I don’t think you’ll be disappointed…in the least!>>
Thank you for your reply!
<<You’re welcome. (Now, two things. I like to know who I’m talking to, first of all. Second, there’s a SHIFT key on your keyboard that’s used to capitalize letters that are meant to be capitalized. “Old school”, perhaps, but we have to proofread AND answer questions before submitting them. Your question, and our responses, go on the Web for everyone in the world (including those who might not have English as their “first” language) to read. ‘Nuff said. ;) ) Tom>>

How often should filter cartridges be cleaned/replaced – 05/21/07
Dear Crew,
<Nicole.>
I have what is likely a silly question about filtration, but I've been puzzling on it for a while and I can't seem to figure it out.  I have a 10 gal tank with a Tetra Whisper Power filter, and my question is this:  the manufacturer's instructions suggest changing the cartridges once per month, but if I throw out the cartridge, won't I be throwing out the beneficial bacteria that are growing on it? <You are right.>
How long will it take the bacteria to re-establish themselves in the new cartridge <A few days, many will be left in the substrate and on the decorations.>, and will this be harmful to the stability of my tank? <It could, if you’d also clean decorations and substrate.> Should I just be rinsing the cartridges out <Yes, just rinse the cartridges as soon as you recognize water flow to become significantly weaker or when water just overflows the tube like chamber. Those cotton or foam like materials can last for several years, only wool in other models needs to be replaced more often.> and replacing the carbon instead of changing them every month? <You do not need to use carbon at all. New activated carbon will only be good for one or two weeks. It’s only useful in specific cases e.g. to help removing some chemicals such as remedies or certain toxins. It needs to be introduced fresh to your filter in such cases.>
Thanks in advance for your help, my tank is going along so well and I just don't want to mess it up! Nicole. <You are welcome. Have fun with your tank. Marco.>

Quiet Skilter 250? Skilter Problems 4/12/07
I got a used Skilter 250 (came without box or instructions) in a batch of equipment.  I set it up on a 10 Gal. freshwater tank currently only occupied by 1 P. bridgesii snail, castles, & some live plants (there are fish coming, though). <Generally skimmers do not work in freshwater for various reasons unless the water is very very dirty.  They require the increased surface tension of salt water to maintain the bubbles long enough to work properly, which does not happen in freshwater.> It runs quietly (quiet waterfall noise is quite pleasant, so I'm bidding on another for a similar tank for just a few fish). <Can you cancel your bid?>  But in 2 weeks+, nothing in the cup! <Expected.> I thought, well, the water IS pretty clean...   After reading the posts concerning the Skilter 250, I have to wonder--is there something I have to do, to turn the Protein Skimmer part on?  You are probably ROTFL right now, but I didn't notice a separate switch... Please advise.
Linda Willis
<Your problem is that skimmers just don't work in freshwater, and the Skilter in particular have a reputation of not working in salt water either.>
<Chris>

Impossible <Marineland> Filter Cartridge – 3/26/07
Hello.
<Hi.>
I am a new tank owner and I need to change my filter. Stupid me didn't buy replacement cartridges when I bought the filter. That was two hours away from my home. Now, I can't find the cartridges even on line. I bought a Deluxe AQUA-Tech power filter and it says to use EZ-Change #1 Filter Cartridges. I can't find them anywhere.
<I’m not seeing much out there either.  Perhaps not a current model.  Hmmm.>
I know AQUA-Tech is made by Marineland and I still can't figure out which filters will work. Can you please help me?
<Marineland changed their size designations recently to Rite-Size, complete with color-coding.  So some of the older sizes might have new and improved designations.  I would measure the old filter cartridge and go to a more convenient pet store and try to match the size in the new designations.  Or call Marineland customer service.  Their info is listed on their website www.marineland.com.>
Thank you for your time.
Jennifer
<Welcome. Alex>

Siporax in power filter question, FW ap.      2/23/07
Crew-
<Michael>
I hope all is well. I'm writing today with a few questions regarding the placement of Siporax beads. Specifically, I'm setting up a 15-gallon freshwater dwarf puffer tank. I'm using an Aquaclear Mini (100 gph) for filtration. Inside the Aqua clear's media chamber, I'd like to place a Dacron bag filled with Siporax beads for their nitrification and denitrification benefits.
<An excellent idea, proposition>
I plan to cut the sponge in half to increase the volume of Siporax that I can place into the filter. I also plan on using Aqua clear's carbon insert in the media chamber (in between the sponge and the Siporax). My actual question regards exposing the Siporax bag to air when cleaning the filter. Will I be drastically harming the anaerobic population if I transfer the Dacron bag from the filter (through the air) to a small bowl filled with aquarium water (and then back when finished cleaning)?
<Mmm, no... the majority of said anaerobes are located deep within the fractured areas of these sintered glass beads>
I realize that the anaerobic colony resides in the anoxic "innards" of the beads (devoid of oxygen), but I have no idea if air will penetrate these regions during such a transfer. Any help is always greatly appreciated. Also, if you feel that my placement of media should be rearranged in any way (in terms of order), I value your advice.
Thanks,
Mike
<Likely little issue here... I would avoid much in the way of rinsing such media... Bob Fenner>

Filter Recommendations - 02/11/2007
Hey Chuck, we were speaking about power filters yesterday.  I just went and purchased the penguin (bio-wheel) HOB power filter.  The Emperor was
a bit out of my price range but I was wondering how you feel about BioWheels?
< I love them. I think they are a great asset to any aquarium filter. If they had them for air driven filters I would have them on them too.>
I am using this on an overstocked 75g African Cichlid tank as an addition to my Rena Filstar Xp3.  The Aquaclear is within my price range compared to the Emperor so now I am considering buying one of those for my 55g.  I never realized until just now that the media in the Aquaclear is much like a wet dry filter.  Is the Aquaclear filtration setup more effective than the bio wheel setup, or are they similar? Also, which is the most quiet between the Penguin and the Aquaclear? Thanks a lot. Jason McCorry
< The limiting factor to biological filtration is oxygen. That is why the Bio-wheels are out of the water. They are probably the most efficient media for bacteria to grow on.-Chuck>

Filter Choices, FW power   2/12/07
Hey Chuck, just a follow up.  After reading your email regarding the Penguin filter I went and returned it.  Still, the Emperor is way out of my price range (strictly because it's only an add-on filter for an already powerful canister).  So I went and bought the Hagen Aquaclear 110 (pumps 500gph), do you think this is a better choice than the Penguin?
< It does not have a Bio-Wheel so I think you will be missing out on some of the biological filtration it would have provided. The Hagen is fine. Lots of water movement with very good mechanical filtration.>
I've read a lot of reviews on this filter, but what's your opinion on it?  Where does it stand in ranking amongst the Emporer etc.?
Thanks Chuck
< I am still a big fan of the Marineland filters with the Bio-wheel attachments. I have had them run for many many years without any problems. The Hagen filters are good I just do not have any recent hands on experience with them.-Chuck>

Tetra GC30 Hydroclean tank siphon, r/etail is best?   1/29/07
Hi,
    I've decided to buy a Tetra GC30 Hydroclean tank siphon.  The only problem is that I can't seem to find a dealer in the U.S. I tried to  order one from a UK store and they wanted 45 bucks, just to deliver it!
<Wow!>
  I live in South Carolina, and was wondering if you guys know of a  closer online dealer. I have found U.S. sites that sell Tetra  products but not the GC30 I'm looking for. Thanks for your time,
Greg
<Mmm... I'd try a good-sized local store or two... see if they'll allow you to special order this for you... or try the "usual suspects" etailers here... Custom Aquatic, Marine Depot... and dang the torpedoes. BobF>

Note about AquaClear filter    1/10/07
Hi!
<Hello there>
Just a quick note about the AquaClear filters. It is my understanding that the AquaClear Mini is now called AquaClear 20.
<Mmm, something like this: http://www.hagen.com/usa/aquatic/basic/4-1.cfm>
Just thought it might help people trying to buy this piece of equipment! (I own the old version myself).
Audrey
<Thank you for this. Hopefully Hagen (the manufacturer) will provide cross-indexing for their media, et al. Bob Fenner>

Re: Note about AquaClear filter   1/11/07
Hi again Bob!
<Audrey>
> Just a quick note about the AquaClear filters. It is my understanding that the AquaClear Mini is now called AquaClear 20.
> <Mmm, something like this: http://www.hagen.com/usa/aquatic/basic/4-1.cfm>
Like this one: http://www.hagen.com/usa/aquatic/product.cfm?CAT=1&SUBCAT=107&PROD_ID=01005950020101
> <Thank you for this. Hopefully Hagen (the manufacturer) will provide cross-indexing for their media, et al. Bob Fenner>
They do, but the writing on the box is *tiny*!
Audrey
<Perhaps a note to Rolf and Dieter in Canada re...? Manufacturers do appreciate such input. RMF>

Re: Tom: Snail update and hang-on filter trick  - 12/04/06
Hello Tom,
<<Hello again, Rachel.>>
I wanted to update you on the cuttlefish bone addition for my mystery snail.
<<Updates are always welcome, Rachel.>>
The bone seems to be very slowly dissolving into the water, and his shell has stopped deteriorating. The tank's pH has not changed. Once in a while I notice the snail munching while on the bone, but I couldn't say whether he's munching the bone or a bit of algae off the surface. I don't see any tell-tale teeth marks. Worth noting, though, is the fact that he did chew with gusto on one of those terrible plaster "vacation feeders." The pet store had run out of automatic feeders... thankfully I got my family to bring me an automatic feeder just in time for break, and I pulled the awful plaster thing out of my tank! But anyway, the bone seems to have served its purpose.
<<I’ve never used a vacation feeder but, since plaster is largely composed of calcium sulfate, perhaps yours wasn’t so “terrible” after all or, at the least, your snail knows something we don’t. :) >>
I also wanted to pass on a trick I discovered for my Whisper Micro in-tank filter. My tank is a MiniBow kit and I've written in before about a few modifications that can be made to these kits to make them quieter and healthier. One more! I had some leftover filter sponge from covering the intake of the filter, so I slipped a piece behind the filter body. It helps keep the filter from resting on the tank wall (which it's not supposed to do anyway; the suction cup is supposed to prop it up but it's too flat) so the vibrations and noise are greatly reduced. I also padded the hook that hangs the filter from the tank's lip with a bit of sponge. Sounds much better! And it feels better too now that the tank isn't vibrating, for me since this tank sits on my desk, and hopefully for Terrence the Betta inside too.
<<I like your thinking, Rachel. Thanks for passing this along to us and the rest of our readers.>>
Thanks for your help, Tom!
Rachel
<<Happy to have been of assistance, Rachel, and thanks for the nice update and tip. My best to you. Tom>>

Using established tank to put bacteria on new bio-wheel    11/4/06
Hello WWM crew,
<Helen>
    I was wondering if it would be possible to put beneficial bacteria on a new bio-wheel, for a new filter system, for a new tank, by putting it as a decoration in a tank that has already cycled (not making it a part of the cycled tanks filter system). This would be for say a few weeks and then set up the new aquarium.
<Yes, can work... better to inoculate the "wheel" by hooking the whole filter up, and running it though>
    Okay a bit of history. The cycled tank is a 3 gallon one, it had two fish in it, a Synodontis and a Keyhole Cichlid,
<Yikes... too small...>
up until a few weeks ago when I was forced to relocate a guppy into the tank, due to a fin-nipping fish. All of these fish are small. The biggest is the Syno. and he is only about 1 1/2" long.
So, there is no hurry to relocate these fish yet.  
   Toxin levels are as follows:*
    Ammonia - <0mg/L
    Nitrites     - 0mg/L
    Nitrates    - 10ppm
*this is with the guppy in there for a week.
*These numbers may actually be lower as I recently did a water change.
    The new tank will be a ten gallon tank because it's the biggest I could get for the space I have. It will be using a Penguin filter. I can't remember if it's a 100 or 150, but it's the smallest one I could find (space issue). I plan to move as much as I can from the cycled tank to the new one, but do you think it would be a good idea, or would it at least help the new tank cycle a little faster if I did as I proposed.
<Is a very good idea/practice>
Much appreciate any help you could provide.
halexander9
<You have read: can't seem to open here in Cambodia... but WWM FW really biol. filtration... Articles and FAQs files. Bob Fenner>

Power Filter Choice   9/4/06
Hello there,
<<Hello, Steve. Tom>>
I currently have a 55 gallon planted discus tank. I have four 3-4 inch discus and one 5 inch pleco. I am currently running a Jebo canister filter along with a Penguin 125 power filter. I realize the Jebo was a terrible choice. Guess I had to learn for myself that it is worth it to pay extra to get something decent. I would like to replace the filters and was considering either an Emperor 400 or an Aquaclear. Due to the brace on the middle of the tank, an Emperor would have to be off centered and I worry about not getting a good circulation of water in the tank. I like the simplicity of the AquaClear filters. I thought that maybe it would be a good idea to use two smaller Aquaclear filters in order to create better circulation. (Maybe two Aquaclear 50's) I realize that opinions vary, but what would you do in this situation?
<<Steve, both the Emperor and AquaClear models are good choices for this style of filter. My preference for the AquaClear filters is only due to my own experience with them as I've never had a bit of trouble with any that I've owned (I currently have two running, a 50 and a 70). Were it me, I'd probably opt to go with two AquaClear 70's - as opposed to 50's - just to get the extra filtering capacity on a tank the size of yours.>>
Thanks for taking the time to help. Hope you are having a great Labor Day Weekend.
Steve
<<Happy to help, Steve, and I hope you're enjoying your holiday weekend
as well. Tom>>

Extra Media Slots (Penguin 200 and 350) For an additional Rite-Size Filter Cartridge or Penguin Refillable Media Cartridge for enhanced chemical filtration.   6/13/06
I just bought a Penguin Power filter 200 model. Can you tell me the purpose and proper settings for the mid level filter, My tank is 29 Gal fresh water.
Thank you
Tom
<Per the above spiel, these hang-on outside power filters have an extra gap to place either stock cartridge or a refillable media cartridge... Bob Fenner>

Re: Extra Media Slots (Penguin 200 and 350) For an additional Rite-Size Filter    6/14/06
Thank you for the response. I was looking for the proper setting of the midlevel filter level that is half way down the extension that goes in the water. It says it is for water filtration at a different point.
Thank you
<Ahh! Yes... some water to be "taken in" at an upper level. Bob Fenner>

BioWheel Question 5/31/06
Greetings!  
<Hi>
Any information in response to my question would be greatly appreciated!
I have a 40 gallon glass tank with 3 goldfish: 2 calico fantails and 1 goldfish fantail.  I figured this set up would be perfect for the little guys to grow healthy in with a penguin 350b power filter.  In regards to the bio-wheel, once the nitrifying bacteria colony grows on it, what color should it be?  Reason being, my two bio-wheels are brown, as if mostly algae? <Normal color.> As a result, I believe that this is the cause of my water with small bubbles on the surface. <Unlikely related, some bubbles are normal.> I've done 20% water changes everyday for the past 2 weeks, yet there are still small bubbles (that will eventually burst), but I know there is a water quality problem here.  I've tested the water with the following results:
ammonia =~ 0.1 (obviously still bad) <Yep>
ph =~ 7.2
nitrites =~ 0.50 (needs to be 0, which is why I've done daily water changes) <Good>
nitrates =~ 10 ppm
The water changes have not changed much.  I've conditioned the new tap water with ammo-lock, added aquarium salt after the water changes, and even rinsed the filters in the original aquarium water, but still no luck.  Which leads me to the bio-wheel and it's brownish coloration.  Could this be the cause?
Any ideas would be great.
Thank you.
Ty
<Most BioWheels look brown after a while, so the color is normal.  Do you have ammonia/nitrites coming from the tap water?  Ammo-lock can cause false positives on the ammonia test.  If this tank is only a couple of weeks old then I would suspect than the cycle is not yet completed. Can take up to a month at times.>
<Chris>

Hang-on-back filter hang-up  5/26/06
Dear WetWeb:
<Martha>
I recently obtained a standard 55-gallon freshwater tank second-hand.  To my surprise, the AquaClear 70 filter that I have been using on my 45-gallon tank won't quite fit over the rim of this new tank!
<Happens>
Instead, it perches about 1/2" above the tank edge, failing to clear the inner lip of the tank by perhaps 1/8".
<Yep>
Do I leave well-enough alone, and leave the perching filter in its elevated position?  
<Mmm, no... not made to function a kilter, and too likely to "fall off"!>
The water-flow comes closer to the glass canopy than I find truly comfortable; too easy to get stray water-droplets on top of the glass, under the light strip.
Do I take a knife, or a saw, or a blowtorch  (!) to the plastic rim of the tank, trying to create a space for the filter to slip into more firmly?
<One approach...>
I don't think the filter itself can be modified.
<Mmm, can... and this is what/where I'd make the modification as the rim of the tank itself is structural to a degree. The lip of the filter box can be (very carefully) cut... with a fine jig saw blade for instance... taping over both sides, going slowly, and an "extension" solvented onto/over the cut to extend its reach>
Or are some HOB filters more capacious than others?
<Yes>
I am very happy with AquaClears in most of my tanks, but would consider using another brand if it would fit this thank.
Thank you for your time.
<Am a big fan of these fine Hagen products as well... but would look into Supreme et alia. lines to fit this 55 here. Bob Fenner>

Poor Filter Intake Depth  - 05/22/2006
Hi Crew. Could you please answer a question that I can not find a specific answer to?
< We will try.>
I recently set up a 75 gal. freshwater aquarium and can't find any info on where to place the filter intake tube as far as depth in tank. For best results should it be close to the substrate or in middle levels. Filter is Emperor 400. There is no reference the placement with manual or on their website. Also...I am going to stock this tank with blue gourami's and albino Cory cats only. How many do you recommend as maximum number of each for this size tank? Thanks for all of your help through the many fin articles and FAQ'S all of you provide for this fascinating addictive hobby. Thanks again...DR
< In the center of the tank would be perfect. The Cory's would occupy the lower areas while the Gouramis occupy the upper levels. The intake would not interfere with either in the middle.-Chuck>

Significance of artificial filter sponges in freshwater aquarium changing color    4/6/06
Dear Sirs and Madams:
<Tamara>
Hello! After much searching on the net and other links, I have been stumped as to why the artificial filter sponges in my planted, established freshwater aquarium are turning pinkish-red. My ammonium levels are minimal, my pH is a relatively constant 7.2 and the water itself rather hard (but it has been about the same since I started my tank, about six years ago). I have never had an epidemic in my tank with regards to my flora or fauna, with the exception of a couple of algae blooms in the spring, but nothing too extreme. I have a balanced number of fish, and do not overfeed them. Is this cause for alarm?
<No>
It started happening around November of 2005. Thank you for your input!
Sincerely,
Tammy
<Likely is biological... algal growth... though could be other life (need a microscope to discern) or simply a chemical/physical staining... but not to worry in all cases. Bob Fenner>

Treating A Tank With A Bio-Wheel - 2/28/2006
Hello, Have been combing the archives and I can't seem to spot this question/answer. I have a 12gal Eclipse with a bio wheel, when you're medicating a tank (ick)-after you're done, what do you do with the bio wheel? I've gotten rid of the carbon in the filter and have a new one ready to put in after the treatment, but am not sure what to do with the wheel-if anything or how to proceed.
Thanks, Judy
< Before treatment, take the Bio-wheel out of the system and place it in a little dish/bowl with some aquarium water and place it in a cool dark spot like under the aquarium. Keep it moist but not submerged. Treat the tank for ich for at least three days as per the recommendations on the bottle. After the treatment is complete you add carbon to remove any medication. When the tank is clear you can simply reinstall the bio-wheel. Without a fish to host the parasite it will die off in a few days depending on the water temp. This is one of the great things about the Bio-Wheel. This is especially useful when treating with antibiotics.-Chuck.>

Re: Medicated Tank with Bio-Wheel  - 3/1/2006
Thank you Chuck for the quick response! I of course acted first and asked second! :-(  What would I need to do (I pulled the bio wheel after I started treatment)
in this instance? Should I get a new wheel and treat the water with a Bio Spira product after the treatment and about a 50% water change? I was so anxious to treat the white spots that I remembered the carbon but wasn't sure about the wheel. Thanks Again, Judy
< When the fish are cured add carbon to remove the excess medication. Start feeding after adding the carbon. Be very careful not to overfeed and remove any excess food after a couple of minutes. Check the ammonia and nitrites. If they start to get up there then I would add Bio-Spira.-Chuck>

New Fish And Quieter Filter  - 02/20/06
Hi Crew! I have a 10 gallon tank which is really empty (well, seemingly to me). It  contains 2 Cory catfish -1 peppered and 1 bronze- and a Bolivian ram (so said at the pet shop). I was wondering what other fish could be compatible for these fish without overloading the tank.
< Almost any community fish would work well in your tank. Small tetras, livebearers small barbs etc...>
Also, over the past year my filter has been  growing louder and louder, and I was wondering why this is (the noise is driving  me mad since the tank is located in my bedroom near my bed...)? I clean the  filter regularly, and can't seem to find the problem...
Thanks for all of your help, love the  website! Christine
< Disassemble the filter and wash everything well with a garden hose with a aggressive spray attachment, especially around the impeller. Sometime small grains off sand or carbon get between the impeller and the sides of the filter causing the grinding sound.-Chuck>

Bio-Wheel Replacement   1/11/06
Great info here.  I have a quick question.  I am converting my saltwater tank to freshwater.  I wanted to see if I could reuse the BioWheels from my Magnum 350 after rinsing/soaking them in freshwater, or if they will need to be replaced.  Thanks for your help.
< Rinse them out and add Bio-Spira from Marineland to the tank and you will be ready to go.-Chuck>

Bouncing Bio Wheel
Here I am resending this email. Oh and by the by, all my ammonia issues have finally resolved themselves!
<Great. Probably the number one killer of fish. Bio filtration is very important>
Greetings, and my deepest thanks for ANYTHING you can help me out with. Ok, so here's my issue, but first, I'm sure you will want to know all about my tanks, and such, (although that isn't terribly pertinent to my question). I have two ten gallons (I'm 16 and I baby-sit, so my income is hilarious, otherwise I'd have 55 gallon tanks or something) one of the tens is filtered with a penguin bio wheel mini, and the other, has two of these absolutely dirt cheap box filter thingy deals. And up until recently the cheapo filters had run for a year, with no fish killing problems. 
One of the tens, houses about 10 or 15 Dalmatian lyre tail molly fry, which are almost a month old. And to be brutally honest, I have no idea why they are still alive, and apparently thriving. Crazy ammonia levels have forced me to perform water changes just about every other day, which I fear is only sending the ammonia/nitrate/nitrite cycle dealy even more out of whack.
<Your work at water changes are why the fry are alive. Water changes will slow, but not stop, the establishment of the bacteria needed to cycle. I would suggest a simple change here. Replace the boxes with sponge filters. Since there is no floss to replace, bacteria will continue to thrive in the filter rather them be thrown away when you service the box. There is no real need for particle (floss) or chemical (charcoal) filtration if you do partial water changes as needed.>
You'd think that would be my problem, but it isn't. Moving along to the OTHER tank, all of ITS issues started, when I started switching the filter's around in the different tanks. I moved the bio-wheel from the now-molly fry tank, to what I christened the Death Tank, so that the babies wouldn't all get sucked up into it. This of course, left the fry tank filter-less, so I put the two box filters in there. 
Well, unfortunately, in the past week or so, I've switched them around again, because the fry are big enough to NOT get sucked up and I want them to have the nicer filter because they are oh-so endearing. Gosh, I'm really sorry to whoever is reading this, I realize it's long and confusing but please bear with me.
So, here's where the question comes in: Because my death tank seems to have un-cycled itself (and by that I mean, the ammonia which had previously been flawless, is high, and who the heck knows what the nitrate and nitrite are even doing?!)...
<You should be testing for nitrite and nitrate, not just ammonia. Very important> 
...fish have been succumbing to these stresses and developing illnesses. A week ago, one of my cherry barbs (which I've had for a year-ish) decided to get dropsy. He looked hilarious, but it ended sadly, when after treating with some Jungle Fungus stuff in conjunction with Jungle Parasite stuff. (I'd read it could be either, although I'm not sure my diagnosis was correct.) He died. Yesterday, I started treating my death tank for Ick.
<Most bloating is caused by an internal bacterial infection. Fungus and parasite meds would be of little use. A medicated anti bacterial flake food may have been a better choice. Even a good wide spectrum antibiotic in the water may have been better. And why are you treating for Ich? First, you make no mention of white spots on the fish. Second, you already treated for parasites. Do not treat unless you need to> 
Here's the part that I simply don't understand: For all of these medicine's I've been using to treat my cursed tank, they say to discontinue carbon filtration, which with my set-up, is all the mechanical filtration I've got. So what I've been doing, is putting the box filters into the fry tank, which has remained untreated, putting the bio-wheel filter into the death tank, which I first take the filter pad out of, because of course, it contains carbon. No wonder my tank is so screwed up! 
Can the bio-wheel alone handle the filtration of 1 female Betta, two adult mollies, and two barbs? I sort of doubt it.
<There are three types of filtration. Particle filtration simply removes any junk floating in the water. Any waste or old food that hits the bottom will usually stay there until removed with a gravel vac during water changes. This is less important than most people think. A good water change schedule removes far more junk than even the best filters. The second type of filtration is chemical. Usually done by adding charcoal. You only need chemical filtration if you are trying to remove a chemical, such as at the end of a med treatment. You can simply cut the black plastic cage on the filter insert and shake out most of the charcoal. The third, and by far the most important, is bio filtration. This is establishing a bacterial colony to convert the ammonia produced by the fish into nitrite, then finally nitrate. Most of the bacteria in your system lives on that bio wheel. It must be considered as if, and treated like, it was alive. In fact it is, with millions of lives working to keep your fish alive. When you start moving bio wheels around you may stress or kill the colony. Also, antibacterial meds will nuke the colony. That's what causes the ammonia to spike. Please read here on establishing FW cycling. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm> 
Could you possibly tell me how in the world I'm supposed to keep the tank clean, while medicating it?
Any light you can shed on this would be greatly appreciated.
<Stop all treatments and work towards re establishing your bio filtration. If you do treat you must do water changes to correct ammonia or nitrite spikes, replacing the med with each>
Thank you so much again, I'm sorry this is so long.
Liz
<No problem. Don>

Sand + AquaClear = uh oh...
Thank you for your previous quick and helpful responses. I thought I'd bounce this off you guys. So here's the scenario. I have just set up a tank. About six months ago I had a freshwater tank. I decided to add marine sand. I neglected to turn off the Aquaclear. Some sand got into the filter. I heard what can best be described as the filter trying to clear it's throat. And choke - choke -nothing. No sound. No motion. Dead in five. So it hasn't been junked yet and is just sitting there. Does it go? 
<Mmm, hopefully not>
Or should I try a new impellor thing-a-ma-jiggy?
<Maybe>
It would be great if I could somehow salvage it but alas I fear it has become permanently non-perfunctory.
<Heee!>
If I could get it to work I'd have added flow, could but some foam in there for bacteria; it would be quite a boon. What do you suggest? - Ishan
<Take the unit apart completely and rinse any/all bits of sand out of it... and see if it will start again... if it makes a bit of sound like it's trying to start, give the filter box a slight bump with your hand... If it still won't go, take it to your dealers for a look-see... if still no go, write the folks at Hagen (the manufacturer and ask for help. Bob Fenner>

Re: Sand + AquaClear = uh oh...
I rinsed the motor when it happened. I tried just plugging it up with little water to see if it would go. And it did - sort of. It is still a bit shoddy though. It makes a lot of noise now. Perhaps a few more cleanings and the little guy will finally smooth out. Thank you once again for your speedy responses - WWM - is the best! - Ishan
<I would do what you're doing... likely just a bit of a bit of gunk... that will clear itself or wear down... Bob Fenner>

Was a stinky FW system, wish Chuck would supply titles
Thanks Chuck for getting back to me so fast!!! You were a wonderful help! My tank is now clear and not smelling so bad. The ammonia is still high but we are doing water changes every other day. My LFS doesn't carry Amquel, but we are traveling 65 miles to a really great fish store to get some. Hopefully it and the water changes will work. Oh, we also bought a Magnum 350 Pro Series canister filter and it seems to be helping also. Anyways, I just wanted to say a big thank you for helping me out!!
< When the bacteria grow on the BioWheels you should almost never have an ammonia problem again. Next time you need to medicate you can simply store the wheels for a few days during treatment and then replace them after the medication is removed and you won't miss a beat.-Chuck>
Dayna

Whisper Filter Won't Prime
Hi All!! If anyone can help me... you can.
I have a Whisper 20 hang-on-tank filter that has a hard time priming. The impeller spins, and it moves water, but will not pull water up the standard tube. It will prime after a while... if I force feed it to get it going... but on its own its mostly won't pull.
Once it gets primed it works GREAT!! But it takes FOREVER to get going.
Any suggestions other than getting a new one?? That is in the plans.. but probably after the first of the year.
Paul
<I would suggest you check their website for this answer. Maybe contact their customer service department. Sorry, but I use Marineland filters. They prime great. Don>

Re: increase hob overflow box flow rate?
Thank You for the response Chuck. I understand what you are saying. But, my siphon tubes are extended about 2" below the water level in the intake box, the intake box bottom is about 2 1/2" below water level and the slots in the intake box extend about 1" below water level. In the back box the siphon tubes are 1" longer than they are in the intake box. There is a weir in the back box between the siphon tubes and the 1 1/2" Durso stand pipe drain, the top of this weir is positioned 1/2" below the slots and a 1/2" above the siphon tube bottoms in the intake box to maintain a siphon during a power loss. While the system in running the water level in the back box behind the weir at the standpipe is about 2" below the normal tank level, but only about an 1" below the weir. Could my weir be causing back pressure on the siphon tubes and if it is how would I maintain a siphon during a power loss without it?
< Measure the actual pump volume at the current aquarium level. If it is at least 300 gallons per hour then it is OK. A rate of 400 to 500 gallons per hour would be better. Increase the pumping rate slowly until it looks like the system cannot handle any more and measure the pump rate again. This will be the maximum capacity of the system. As the water level in the aquarium increases then the flow rate of the siphon between the two water levels should also increase. To increase the flow rate between the two boxes I would make sure that the friction in the siphon tubes was kept to a minimum by making sure that they were clean. If you decide to lower the weir then I would make sure I had a longer siphon tube as it exits into the outer box.-Chuck>
Thank You Much
Rich Ducham

Re: increase hob overflow box flow rate?
Thanks for the advice again Chuck. A few days ago I raised the water level in the main tank (as you explained the first time, my bad) as the sump level began to rise I slowly opened the valve on the return line from the pump. By having a little patience, I now have the valve almost full open. I seem to have to add about a 1/2 gallon of water each morning due to evaporation to keep the sump level where needed this keeps the proper flow through my weir system to turn my bio wheels. I had set it up originally that on a power outage the sump would fill to within about 6 gallons of being full to avoid overflows. After raising the main tank level to increase the flow I did another power outage test, it fills the sump to within about 3 gallons of full (close but no overflows!!!!). I put a small rotometer from work on the drain and measured ~1175 gph. Amazing how a little higher level in the main tank can affect the drain flow so drastically. So to reward myself I added a male and a female Demasoni to the tank crew today, 20 little Mbuna baddies!!!! Now my wife said I can start a saltwater tank, so I may have more questions down the road:-) Thanks for the time to answer back it made a world of difference. I knew those chemies weren't all their cracked up to be!!!! LOL
< If the water backs up into the sump through the hose running from the pump into the tank then you need to get a one way check valve that will prevent this from happening during power outages. Go to Drsfostersmith.com and check out the valves.-Chuck>
Thanks,
Rich D.

Re: increase hob overflow box flow rate?
Thanks again Chuck. I tested the system again. When I cut the power to the
return pump the water in the overflow box drains to the sump until the
main tank level reaches the bottom of the intake box slots. The return
line also then drains back to the sump (the lowest point of the return
manifold piping in the tank is even with the bottom of the intake box
slots). After water flow has stopped draining back to the sump from the
drain line and return line the water stops rising at about 2" from the top
of the sump. Does that sound OK or am I still missing something and may have
a flood?
< If this is the most water you have in your sump then you should be OK . The Marineland SOS system does not continue to siphon after the power is turned off. You may want to take a look at that system to look at the way they prevent any further siphoning. Usually the water siphons back to the sump through he pump hose from the aquarium. That is why I recommended the check valve. If the water still siphons through the main drain line then a check valve would be useless.-Chuck>
Rich D.