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| FAQs on Tiger Barbs Health Related Articles:
Tiger Barbs,
Barbs, Danios &
Rasboras, A
Barbed Response; Wrongly maligned for being fin-nippers, barbs are in fact
some of the best fish for the home aquarium by Neale Monks
Related FAQs: Tiger Barbs 1,
Tiger Barbs 2, & FAQs on:
Tiger Barbs Identification, Tiger
Barbs Behavior, Tiger Barbs Compatibility,
Tiger Barbs Selection, Tiger
Barbs Systems, Tiger Barbs Feeding,
Tiger Barbs
Reproduction, & Barbs,
Danios, Rasboras 1, B,D,R Identification,
B,D,R Behavior,
B,D,R Compatibility, B,D,R Selection,
B,D,R Systems,
B,D,R Feeding, B,D,R Disease,
B,D,R Reproduction, |
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Mysterious Egg Bearing Tiger Barb
Deaths 7/27/08
I have a 55 gallon barb tank that is mostly stocked with Tiger Barbs,
males and females. The stocking is well below capacity. The tank is mature
and healthy, ammonia & nitrites=-0-, nitrites 10ppm, pH=7.6, water is soft.
<Mmm, how soft? And how softened or is this natural?>
Weekly 10% water changes are done and bi-weekly gravel vacuuming. The tank
water is crystal clear.
<All reads as good>
Over the last year I have lost 4 females in the exact same manner. The
females become heavy with eggs, eating fine, behaving normally as Tiger
Barbs do.
They show no signs of distress then I find her dead the next morning and
full of eggs. What could be causing this acute problem? Thanks.
Mary
<Perhaps mostly "genetics", but might I ask what you feed? Are there live
plants present, and if so, what type? Bob Fenner>
Tiger Barb Question
Hi. Been checking out your site since we started keeping tropical
fish. Very informative!!
<Thank you!>
My question; I've had a couple tiger barbs for a couple of months. It
almost looks like there is a very, very light film on them at times. The black
bands don't seem as "black" as they used to. When I looked
at them with a flashlight, I could see a green color on the scales in the black
bands. I don't know if that is the normal color or not.
<This sounds as if it may be Costia (Ichthyobodo), Please see http://www/wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwfshparasites.htm
for more info on the disease and for treatment.>
The tank they are in is just about done cycling. They seem to be doing very well
otherwise. Eating, chasing, etc.
<This is very good.>
Is this a fungus or disease? Or have I just been staring at the fish
too long?!?
<Most likely a parasitic disease>
Appreciate your help!! Jan Emerson
<You're welcome! Ronni>
Sick tiger barbs?
Hi. First thanks so much for this website. I have just started to taking
care of some tiger barbs and your site has helped ease much of my worries.
<Great to hear, thank you for the kind words!>
My two 20 gallon tanks have just finished cycling (one took a full month while
the other took two weeks) and thankfully, I did not lose any of the barbs. (7
and 6 barbs on each tank, I only found out about the odd number tip last week.) This
past week however, I noticed that in my new tank, two of the tiger barbs looked
like their black markings are slightly green. I noticed this in some of the
tiger barbs on my first tank as well but now, these greenish stuff are gone
without any treatment. In one of the posts here, one of you said that it may be
Costia (Ichthyobodo).
<Costia/Ichthyobodo/Chilodonella/other 'skin slime disease' causatives really
don't fit what you're describing. That would appear more gray and be
visible all over the sides of the fish, not restricted to only where the black
is, and it would appear as though the skin were sloughing off. It
sounds to me like normal coloration for tiger barbs, truly. There is
even a green morph of the tiger barb, in which the black bands run together and
are quite green instead of black. I do not believe this is anything
for you to worry about.>
Because of what happened to the tiger barbs in the first tank, I am thinking of
waiting and see if it will disappear especially since the water conditions are
much better now, but I am concerned that they might not be feeling too well. I
am not sure if it is normal behaviour for two fishes to rub together (looks more
like jostling for a ball, or trying to squeeze into a tight door but without the
door).
<Hmm, this is probably just dominance struggles, trying to establish their
pecking order.>
My first thought was that one of the fish was feeling itchy, and second thought
was one of them (actually, Prince, the most playful one in the 2nd tank) was
just trying to play with Spot (one of the "sick" fish) but Spot didn't
want to.
<This probably isn't a concern, just keep an eye on them, and watch for any
other issues.>
What do you think I should do? I am afraid of treating Spot and his/her other
friend needlessly and subjecting them to stress again.
<Agreed. I would not do anything until you see strong evidence
convincing you of a particular illness. All sounds well so far, just
keep observing and enjoying your fish.>
I am thinking of getting a hospital tank but I can't seem to find info on what
size is ok to use. Due to space constraints, I am thinking of getting the
smallest one without being stingy on the comfort of the fish.
<Just about anything can be used in a pinch, so long as it is inert and
watertight. If you can swing space for a 10g, great, go for it.>
Another...How do you check if the fish are bloated because of overfeeding or if
they are sick? I still haven't figured out how much to feed them that I am
afraid I may be starving them (I feed them 3x, they seem to eat more though if I
give them bloodworms so I am not sure if I am feeding them enough of the
pellets).
<Oh my.... feeding them three times *daily*? Well, if they're fat,
consider that the reason. Cut back to once daily. While
you're getting them back down to 'normal' sizes, it would be fine to skip a day
here and there.>
Lastly, any recommendation on what materials I should be reading? I want to buy
some more books but since they can be expensive (and some are not value for
money) I'd like to check first before I buy. The aquarium books in the library
are checked-out!
<Well, a couple of good beginners' books are "Setting Up a Freshwater
Aquarium" by Gregory Skomal and "The Simple Guide to Freshwater
Aquariums" by David E. Boruchowitz. In the Boruchowitz book, the
only thing that I wholeheartedly disagree with are his stocking suggestions in
the back of the book; I really, REALLY disagree with some of his suggestions
(such as keeping an Oscar in a 29g tank). Beyond that, these are both
decent books. If you're up for a challenge, you might consider
"Tropical Fishlopedia" by Mary Bailey and Peter Burgess; an excellent
book, but I don't usually recommend this to children or beginners, it's really
quite a lot of info to bombard oneself with when just starting out.>
Thanks so much and sorry for the long email.
<No apologies necessary, this is why we're here. Wishing you and
your barbs well, -Sabrina.>
Jade
Speckled Tigers
I got 4 new tiger barbs a week ago, and 1 hour later 2 Guppies died. Now 2
of the Barbs swim fine if they are darting about, but when they are all together
being still, the 2 swim nose down or upside down. Now, I just noticed tiny
white specs on their fins (all 4 of them).
Ammonia is perfect in tank.
Thanks a lot
<Your Tiger barbs have Ick. Use salt to cure. Read here on it's proper use to
kill Ick.
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/showquestion.php?faq=2&fldAuto=32 Take note of
the life cycle and continue treatment for at least two weeks after the last spot
drops. The ammonia in your tank is only perfect if at zero. You should be
testing for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Do water changes to keep the first two
at zero, nitrate below 20ppm. Read here on establishing bio filtration. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm
Sick albino tiger barb
Morning everyone. One of my albino tiger barbs is sick and I'm not sure what
is. She can't swim straight anymore. She swims upside down and
in circles and it looks like she's wobbling when she swims.
<Yikes>
Her backend looks really weak as well. She also has what looks like two red
sores on either side of her back right under her dorsal fin. She also spends a
lot of time laying upside down in one of my plants like she's exhausted. As of
yesterday she was still eating. Ant ideas of what it is or is there anything I
can do for her?
<Maybe trouble with an all dry food diet... likely not a biological disease
if your other barbs are not affected... maybe a congenital defect...>
I have her in a 35 gallon community tank. I always add aquarium salt when I do a
water change. Oh and I do two water changes a month, and the water is kept at
77-78 degrees. There's an Emperor bio-wheel for filtration. The tank has been up
and running for two years. Thanks for your help.
-Heather
<Sounds like a nice system and that you know what you're doing... What do you
feed your fishes? I would try some fresh/frozen food, like brine shrimp, Daphnia
once a day... perhaps a teaspoon of Epsom Salts per five gallons of water... Bob
Fenner>
All fish out ... Rambling re... cichlid, livestock/human
responsibility, old tiger barbs? 10/3/06
Hello,
I had a cichlid that got to
<Too>
big for my 20 gal, No one told me when I bought it at the pet store how big it
was going to get.
<... Don't hold yourself in bad faith... The onus is upon you to investigate
such matters...>
Now I try to do my own research before I buy.
<Yay!>
I gave him to a place that I thought would attract serious fish keepers, he was
up to around 6 inches, (a peacock)
<Beautiful animals>
and was in that tank a couple of years by himself. He was in hard water with a
ph at or above 8.4. I put 3 young tiger barbs in immediately after the cichlid
was given away , then a week and a half later I put three more young tigers
in. This tank is at my mothers' house so I was able to check 4 days later and 3
died one from the first group and two from the second. I have a ten gal. up and
running so I put them in this tank. I see one looks to have fin rot on the
caudal and anal fin, so I put in Nitrofurazone and Furazolidone in yesterday,
all is o.k. so far. My question is, was the pH. to high for them or was the
water to hard?
<Mmm, not for this species... or shouldn't have been should I state. To some
extent depends on the conditions these fish were kept, reared in... but likely
had stress et al. issues...>
One of those barbs from the first group was a couple year old tiger from that
ten gal. that there in now, where he lived in not so hard with lower p. h.
<Ahh!>
He seemed a little frantic as time went on but his color was good. Over the 2
weeks or so his color is still good but he looks gaunt( if fish can look gaunt).
<Oh yes, can>
He is the one that has the fins that look ragged. Its not bad yet but his over
all appearance is not healthy, and he is not eating well. Another question is
the tank that the tigers were in that is now empty and has been for 2 days, are
the bacteria in that tank still active or do I need to start from scratch with
this tank if I am going to put fish in it again?
<Yes to the bacteria still being there,
useful...> Thank
you Sherri
<...? Maybe the Barbs are/were just "old"... Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/BarbsDaniosRasborasArt.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Tiger Barbs and fin recovery 7/20/06
Great web page, we have really enjoyed it and learned a lot. I think you
have saved a lot of fish!
<Aye, yes>
I have a twenty gallon tank with six Tiger Barbs. We started with three Tiger
Barbs and added three more after they spent time in the quarantine
tank. The three / three idea was courtesy of the LFS. Both tanks have cycled and
water tests look good.
We added the second three barbs a week ago and last night I noticed one of the
Barbs had a damaged tail fin.
<Not uncommon... nippy species>
He appears well otherwise, so I suspect he was "nipped" by a tank mate. One of
the barbs is VERY dominant.
<Very common>
I quickly moved the injured fish to the quarantine tank. Because the damage
doesn't appear to go too far into the fin, will the fin heal?
<Likely so, yes>
How is the little guy going to fare on his own during recovery?
<Should be fine>
I hear Tiger barbs don't care to be alone. Should I have removed the aggressive
Barb?
<Keep observing... you should be able to discern who the culprit is... I would
"switch out" the mean one for the nipped one in a few weeks when the latter is
healed... And consider adding or removing one to maintain this batch in an
odd-numbered school... Much better for dynamics...>
(I'm not sure he's the guilty one)
Thanks
Tom
<You will be. Bob Fenner>
Mass Tiger Barb deaths - 5/5/2006
Hi Crew!
<<Greetings, Steve. Tom here.>>
Thanks in advance for your wonderful work. I've been a fan for a long time, and
find your site very helpful when Googling for answers. This time, though, I'm
at wit's end and am moved to write.
<<Thanks for the kind and encouraging words, Steve. Now, let's see what's going
on...>>
My setup is a freshwater 72 gallon bow. Tank is planted with hornwort and has a
gravel substrate. Two AquaClear 50 (the new designation; not the old) filters,
two four-foot daylight fluorescents, one three-foot actinic, and one-three foot
daylight fluorescent; all lights on timers. A few natural rocks. Tank is kept
at 77 to 78 degrees. 14 percent water changes are performed every ten days
using tap water and chorine/chloramine remover/conditioner. Water quality has
always been consistent since cycling: Ammonia = Zero, Nitrites = Zero, Nitrates
<5, pH = 7.6. Aquarium salt is added occasionally, but never enough to register
more than a flicker on my specific gravity tester, which has as it's lowest
reading 1.010 (the needle rests at what would be 1.008). I also have an
adjustable aerator which comes on when the lights go off. I keep it at a very
low setting.
<<Good filtration (I'm a fan of these filters), conditions exceptional,
good-sized tank. All seems very good, so far.>>
The current population consists of 9 diamond tetras, 11 cardinal tetras, 4
bloodfin tetras, 3 red velvet swordtails, 3 Siamese algae eaters (definitely not
Chinese), one silver molly, one black Sailfin molly, one Otocinclus, and, until
yesterday, 7 tiger barbs. All fish were added over an initial 2 or 3 month
period after cycling, with the exception of the diamonds which were used after
the first week of cycling (no losses ever with them).
<<I confess to being a proponent of fishless cycling but, no harm here.
Definitely no over-stocking issues.>>
I keep a running log of absolutely everything that happens to the tank; whether
changing water, cleaning a filter, or scrubbing algae. And the tank finished
cycling 8 months ago.
<<Love this; an excellent practice!>>
Losses over that 8 month period have been occasional. Two cardinals at widely
separated intervals (one died about a week after coming home from the LFS, and
the other died about 6 weeks ago colorless and bloated), three bloodfins also at
widely separated intervals (two were obviously weak sisters from the LFS,
another died within a month after coming home and had a deep internal whiteness
to the flesh just behind the dorsal; thought perhaps it might be tetra disease,
but no problems since), and one swordtail which was lost about a week after she
gave birth five weeks ago (she had developed an internal lump on one side about
where an ovary or womb would be and was extremely lethargic after delivering fry
until her death).
<<These occurrences go, sadly, with the territory - hopefully minimally,
though.>>
The swordtails seem to require more brackish water than I'm willing to
keep. Every two months or so, they develop a very thin whitish film (not grainy
at all) and will flash a bit, and I transfer them to a quarantine tank where I
slowly add salt to a brackish level. They remain there for a day or two or
three, perk right up, film gone, whereupon I do one partial water change before
putting them back in the tank.
<<Interesting treatment of the Swordtails. I would typically expect the need for
higher salinity levels with Mollies rather than Swordtails or Platys. (The three
are so closely associated I sometimes start thinking of them as one fish with
different names.) :)>>
I feed flake three times a day; about as much as can be consumed in a
minute. Every other day I substitute thawed bloodworms for one of the flake
feedings. So, I see these fish quite often (I work at home).
<<Again, good feeding practice.>>
Getting to the point: Yesterday afternoon I found that four of the tigers had
died. No obvious signs of distress or disease. At that
time, I noticed that one of the others was breathing very rapidly and pointing
up (normally they point down when resting or displaying). The other two were
fine, chasing each other normally. I bagged the four dead ones (two males, two
females) and refrigerated for later transport to the LFS. By the time I was
ready to leave, the distressed one had passed, and I bagged him too.
<<I'm sorry and, amazed, to hear this.>>
A note on the LFS: This is a large aquarium store which distributes fish to
some of the chain stores in the area. Fish and aquarium
supplies only; no other pets. The personnel there have always been a
knowledgeable group.
<<Okay.>>
I took the fish and a bottle of water for testing. Their test kits are no
better than mine (I use chemical-type tests), and their results matched
mine. No answers there. He noted that my tigers were a bit fat, but not too
much. In counter-point I mentioned that the tigers know no limits when
competing with the other fish for food, which is why I feed the way I do. He
suggested also that I do more frequent water changes for the time being, with
which I concurred. By the time I got home, another tiger had died. This was
about three hours since the one before; three hours which go from no symptoms to
death.
<<In your case, the more-frequent water changes would be placebo-like in nature.
Not bad advice, at all, and frequently recommended by me/us. However, I still
don't see a "connection" here.>>
The only change I've made to the normal tank routine of the past several months
is one which coincides with the death of the fish. I added a second aerator the
night before all these fish died, mostly for the attached night light. It's an
Ario 4. Like the first aerator, I keep this one on the lowest power setting. I
mentioned that to the LFS guy, and, while we're both thinking that it's in the
realm of possibility that the new device is leaching something into the water,
it's highly unlikely.
<<Agreed.>>
So, I did a partial water change last night, and rinsed the new light/aerator
and sponge thoroughly and put it back in the tank. This
morning the final tiger was symptomatic and then died a short time later.
Up until this point, all the other fish have been fine. As I started writing
this, I went to check again. One of the cardinals has died. No symptoms, and
his color was still vivid, which is unusual in a dying cardinal.
<<Agreed once more.>>
To sum up, I don't want to lead me or you down any paths, but for all the tigers
to have died in 24 hours with no other fish affected seems unusual in the
extreme, especially since tigers are not an animal given to delicacy when
compared to some of the others I have. That one of the cardinals has died just
outside that 24 hour envelope may be construed as related, but inconclusive
given their more delicate nature.
I put all this to you.
<<Steve, you don't mention whether, or not, any of your fish were quarantined
(two weeks minimum) prior to being introduced into the display tank. Frankly,
while I would highly recommend this, to the point of being a "given", I don't
believe your Tigers necessarily came from the distributor sick. Certainly not
sick enough to die in such a short period of time without any symptoms.
Something going on in your tank killed these fish and the only thing that "jumps
out" at me is stray electrical voltage from the new night light/aerator.
Am I doing some "grasping" here. Oh, yes! But, the coincidence of adding the new
equipment with the sudden death of these animals is pretty compelling. If your
power source isn't on a "ground fault interrupter" (GFI) circuit, please rectify
this immediately. At the minimum, there are "plug-in" GFI's available at Home
Depot, Lowe's, et. al., that can be plugged into your electrical outlet. (These
resemble plug-in surge suppressors.)
As to why the Barbs were the only fish affected (except for, potentially, your
Cardinal) under my hypothesis, I can't, honestly, give you a good answer. Stress
from being handled/moved leading to susceptibility, perhaps? Relative size? Does
the aquarium salt without acclimation play a factor? Unknowns, unfortunately.>>
Thanks again for your time.
Steve in Ohio.
<<Wish I had a "silver bullet" answer for you, Steve. Tom>>
Green Tiger Barbs - at a loss... 3/16/06
Bob,
<Ralph>
I've a 90 gallon that I recently switched back to freshwater. Original intent
was to have mostly cichlids, again. Only real aggressive fish was to be a Green
Terror ( my last was essentially a peacekeeper who bothered no one except
feeders though he got to be 10").
<Yikes!>
Looking at some other sites I found a couple decent compatibility lists and have
also ended up with some barbs as well.
<Easygoing ones/species I trust>
The only problem I keep having is the loss of green tiger barbs. I've lost
seven from three different batches from the same LFS.
<Mmm, know that these are sometimes "wanky" from dealers... are raised in the
Far East, often "hormone treated" to boost color... That this degrades their
health otherwise... often lost on/near arrival anomalously...>
I've currently 3 more from another store - one has nipped fins and is acting a
little odd. As for the goners- two for sure had nipped fins especially dorsal
tail. The last two had upper fins that looked like they were flaying/separating
- like a feather and for a week or so I would catch the one upside down as if
dead until another fish would come near! No signs of any Ick, Fungus, rot or
anything else apparently wrong.
I am at a loss as to what is going on- the goners were the largest of the
Barbs.. I've two Albino Tiger Barbs, four Tiger barbs,
<And these are the same species... mixable>
two rosy, one gold and four longer (tigerish) barbs. They have been doing great
and most have been in the tank since the beginning (@3 months). Ammonia,
Nitrites, Nitrates are great. Ph and Temp acceptable for all.
I've also two Giant Danios, one Plecostomus, one Green Terror, one Jewel
Cichlid, a pair of Rainbow Cichlids, one small Firemouth, a Cat, and a couple
1/2-3/4" Africans. ( .99 cent sale).
<Mmm, well, the cichlids might be working the new Green Barbs woe...>
They are feed a variety of dried, pellet, flake, frozen and live food. Today I
bought more live Brine shrimp and some feeder guppies. The largest fish are one
of the Danios and the Rainbows 3" - 3 1/2".
Other than feeder guppies I've lost no fish other than the aforementioned Green
Tiger Barbs.
Plenty of caves, plants and wood for hiding.
Thanks for your time.
Ralph L Thieleman
<I encourage you to "harden" a new batch of these barbs... buy, place them in
another tank, moving water from your ninety for water changes... for a few to
several weeks. When transferring to your main tank, do move about the decor
items there (to disrupt territories, impose a new dynamic)... If there is
"psychological" as well as metabolic room for them all, this should do it. Bob
Fenner>
Re: Green Tiger Barbs - at a loss... 3/17/06
Bob,
<Ralph>
Thanks for the reply.
<Welcome>
I still don't understand why only the green ones. I had them First,
in-between and now last. I see no one harassing them. With the first
ones I did see them bothering each other. I see the longer Barbs
"playing" and chasing each other as well as cichlids chasing other
cichlids.
<I do believe these "green" sports are less hardy than their brethren
period...>
I again have a green that since his lower tail looks chewed has become
more solitary the past week but I've another green now that his top fin
looks likes it is fraying like some others had.
One of them looked like he was sideways at the top last weekend as
well. Why only the greens?
<Genetics? Poorer care in Singapore where they very likely originated?>
Some cichlids have had their tails chewed on by other cichlids. One
even lost an eye. No deaths. Just Green Tiger Barbs. And again I see
no signs of them getting picked on even by each other, especially with
these last three.
<Perhaps the green ones are more "attractive" to whoever may be
harassing them (likely the Terror, at night)... This is a common
phenomenon (differential mortality/predation based on color, markings...
a fave thesis project some years back)>
If I lose these I'll most likely give up on that variation.
Thanks again,
Ralph L Thieleman
<I don't blame you... There are other species of barbs... though your
system is over-stocked psychologically now... Bob Fenner>
Tiger Barbs And Exophthalmia - 11/15/2005
Hey guys,
<And gals - Sabrina with you today.>
I have a question about what seems to be an eye infection in one of my tiger barbs.
<Alright.>
I have a lightly stocked 72 gallon planted community tank. My parameters are all good, pH 6.8-7, nitrites, ammonia all 0.
<Great. Nitrate?>
Recently one of tiger barbs developed a cloudy, popped out eye. Only one eye developed this. I've had them for a couple of years with no problems, and as no other fish, tigers or others, displayed this, I decided to watch and see if it was a sign of natural age related disease.
<It actually may be injury-related.>
I do weekly or biweekly water changes and since my parameters are fine I do not think it is a water quality issue.
<Check those nitrate readings. This can impact exophthalmia/pop-eye.>
If it was, then other fish would display signs of stress as well most likely. I just noticed that the barb died and a second one developed the same popped out, clouded eye (though it
isn't as developed yet). Otherwise it also seems fine, as do all of the other fish. Does anyone have experience with this? How would I
definitely diagnose and treat it?
<I would first suspect injury, here.... Fish have a natural tendency to bite at eyes. Tiger barbs are nippy animals. Try watching them for a bit and see if you see any
aggressive behaviour among them, or if perhaps one fish specifically is causing the others extraordinary amounts of stress.>
All help is appreciated. At this point I wouldn't bother quarantining because if it has been transmitted than most likely it is in the water already, unless the treatments would
kill the plants.
<Mm, better to pull the affected fish.... Even if it is a bacterial infection of some sort, it may not have transmitted to other fish as yet. Furthermore, if the animal HAS been injured, it will give it time to recover.>
Thanks, -Eric
<Wishing you well, -Sabrina> Tiger Barbs And Exophthalmia - II - 11/16/2005
Thanks for the advice. I will watch and see if there is an overly aggressive behavior.
<Excellent.>
I haven't tested for nitrates because all of the test kits I have only include nitrite tests so I was under the impression that I can only infer my nitrates from my nitrites.
<The two are actually quite different. One can be quite low, the other quite high.... do please try to find a test kit for nitrate and check on it.>
Eric
<Wishing you well, -Sabrina>
Sudden Unexplained Barb Death - 11/06/2005
Hi Whoever,
<Sabrina, today.>
I was wondering if anyone here could provide some thoughts on what we
experienced today. Tonight after feeding with a standard commercial food, that
we have been using for a couple of months, one of our Tiger Barbs immediately
started to look pretty bad and stopped swimming. Within 5 minutes it was dead.
We checked the body but there were no obvious signs of any damage or bloating.
We guessed it may have injured itself while feeding, although we don't know
how.
<Any chances some sort of toxin or contaminant got into the food? Had you been
handling anything highly toxic prior to feeding them?>
Prior to this all had seemed well and through the day no problems were observed.
We have/had 7 barbs in a planted community tank with Cardinal tetras, Harlequin
Rasboras and 2 Flying Foxes so the barbs are mainly the dominate inhabitants.
Ammonia is nil and Nitrates at 15ppm (No test kit for Nitrites).
<As nitrite is highly toxic, I recommend you think about getting a kit to test
it.>
So not much to go on I know and not much we can do now but....
<True.... just enough to grasp at straws. It does sound as if it could have been
injury-related, or perhaps from some sort of toxin, but again, there's just not
enough evidence for anything specific.>
Thanks for your thoughts.
<Very sorry for your loss, -Sabrina>
Barb, odd growth 9/5/05
One of our tiger barbs has developed an odd, pink growth over one of his
eyes. It's difficult to get a good look at, because he's still behaving
normally (i.e., never sitting still) but from symptoms I've read it doesn't
sound like it's pop eye, because it's not the eye itself but a growth above the
eye that is sticking out. In addition, the scales midway down his length on the
same side as the growth appear to be developing a sore or irritated patch. Any
thoughts? By the way, you guys are the best, you've helped us out a bunch in
the past.
Greg and Debbie.
<Likely resultant from a physical injury... Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/BDRDisFAQs.htm
Bob Fenner>
Ill Tiger Barb - 08/26/2005
My name is Mark.
<Hi Mark, Sabrina with you today.>
I got your name off of a Tiger Barb website I came across. One of my barbs is
sick and has a white stomach and is swimming in circles. What can I do to help
it?
<Mm, too vague a description.>
I read iodized salt??? but how much if that is true? Any help would be greatly
appreciated.
<Do a search on "whirling disease" and "Myxobolus".... Be testing for ammonia,
nitrite, and nitrate, and keep ammonia and nitrite at ZERO, and nitrate less
than 20ppm.... Beyond that, there is not enough information here to go off.>
Thanks, Mark
<Wishing you and your barb well, -Sabrina>
Hello, hello, my Tiger Barbs are going oh! 11/27/06
Dear fish experts please help,
<Will try>
I tried to take pics of my poor poor tiger barbs...but none turned out well
enough to bother. My tank is a 40 gallon, I have to
<two?>
very old golden Gouramis and 2 old silver dollars and two new ones, a
Plecostomus, and I had 6 tiger barbs, Im down to 4...
Im new at the whole aquarium thing I didn't know about water changes, I wished
I had done more research..
<How about now?>
anyhow my tiger barbs were great happy and brought so much life to my tank.
after having them for 3 days I wake up to see 2 of them with their mouths and
little faces all red and puffy and swollen. No white fuzz or any fin or body
problems. but their mouths in very bad shape over night!
so I ran immediately to the pet store and told them my fishes faces looked
terrible like they were falling off, they the women told me to put malefix
<... Melafix? The Melaleuca "tea" leaf extract product from AP>
in the tank and this would fix them up
<No>
and to do a water change before and after 25%.
<Good idea>
I did this 3 days go by. None of them die and they are still trying very hard to
eat and seem pretty active, but no change and I notice now 4 have this. so I
call a couple pet stores ask when this will start to improve tell them the
situation, and they say a week or two, and read the same thing on line. (though
I still keep hearing that they should have some white fuzz on them, and they
must have been fighting - which neither is the case), anyhow I get worried and
they look so horrid, that I risk the worst one to stress and take him and some
water into the pet store to test it and look at him.
I have one guy look at my poor fave fish and make a disgusted face and get the
other guy. He says to add Maracyn 2
<Better "shot in the dark" here>
to the tank and keep doing the MelaFix (that all the melafiz was doing is
keeping it from spreading to other fish)...
<Not even this>
he didn't tell me what my fish had and I had to chase him to ask questions...
so disappointed and 25$ later I get my fish home and they didn't do a water
test he said there was no point and it happened because I didn't do a water
change soon enough...which he was so condescending I wanted to cry I feel bad
enough...
well I get home return the very ill fish and add the 8 tabs of Maracyn like
the guy said, and an hour later my fish died. I knew the stress may get him...
<Yes>
but then within the next 2 hours another one died, and now I have another Im
sure will be dead soon.
Im sorry, but my question is, what do I do to try and save my poor 4 remaining
tiger barbs, and what the heck is this and what can I do to save them, Im so at
a loss! I don't want this to happen ever again to any fish I get (which will be
a long time).
please any info, thx so much, I hope you return my email, I need answers.
Tammy
<Well... let's start somewhere toward a beginning here Tam... You need to know,
supply information re your water quality... pH, ammonia and more are really the
likely root cause of your problem here. Please take the time to read on WWM
re... starting here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwdis3setsfactors.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
White spots and Tiger Barbs - 03/02/07
Hi,
<Hello>
I am very confused. <Hopefully we can help with that.> I don't know what is
wrong with my tank. I have a 30 gallon freshwater tank. My particular concern is
with the tank itself. There are white, salt-like dots on the inside of the tank.
When you run your fingers on the tank walls, they feel bumpy and come off fairly
easily. I also think they are on the live plants I have. They do not seem to be
getting worse, but I don't know what to do. The pH is 7.0, temp is 79-80 (I have
airstones), ammonia, nitrates and nitrites are all negative and I have verified
this with two different test kits. I cannot attach a picture because any
pictures I have tried to take, you cannot see the dots. <Wondering if it might
be calcium precipitate? Do you have very hard water? Are they hard to the
touch or squishy?>
Also, I have three tiger barbs, and I think one of them is bullying the other
two, to the point of extreme stress. <Not atypical for this species.> One of
the tiger barbs is changing colors and not due to the light. <Stress coloring.>
One second he is his usual darker color and the next second he is very very
light. This color change happens so quickly and is constant. I have also noticed
he sometimes hides in a corner with his head pointed down. <Hiding from the
aggressor.> I do not know if this is a symptom of bulling or not. <Yes
unfortunately.> He seems to be eating fairly well, however he does not like to
come out from his corner a lot. <As long as he is still eating there is hope.>
He has never been incredibly social, but he is becoming more and more withdrawn.
<The weakest of the trio, lowest in the pecking order.> He is also breathing
very fast. I have not noticed anything on him, such as cuts, parasites, etc.
Should I remove the other fish from the group or is he sick? <Well stress often
allows illness to take hold, but without more symptoms I would guess he is just
getting picked on. Might want to remove the Alpha fish for a couple weeks if
possible, give the weaker ones a chance to fatten up and establish
themselves. Depending on other stock might want to add a few more so one does
not get all the attention, best if kept in odd numbers, so add 2 or 4
more. Watch the weak one closely for signs of disease and be prepared to
separate if necessary.>
Thanks for your help.
Sara
<Chris>
Tiger Barbs Dying 2/22/07
Hi,
<Jasmine>
This is the first time I have ever written anyone about anything, but here
goes. I have a 29 gallon community tank which originally consisted of: 1
paradise fish, 1 rosy barb, 1 gold barb, 1 cherry barb,
<Mmm, a comment as we go along... these barbs are better kept in small groups...
are social animals>
1 Australian rainbowfish,
<Ditto>
1 gold Gourami, 1 red-tail Botia, 1 rainbow shark, 1 Pleco, & 1 freshwater
snail.
<Very surprised to find the Botia hasn't killed this snail>
This tank has been set up for 3 months now with no problems whatsoever.
2 days ago, I decided that I wanted to "spice" up my tank with some tiger
barbs. I went to PetSmart and bought 2 tiger barbs, 1 green tiger barb, & 1
albino tiger barb.
<And this species best kept in small, odd-numbers... three, five... to "keep
each other busy">
I know that I shouldn't have, but I introduced them to my community. (I'm sort
of new at this and now know that I should have quarantined them for at least 2
weeks) The fish seemed happy and healthy with no signs of problems.
The next morning, one of the tiger barbs was swimming on its side in circles and
breathing rapidly. I removed him from the tank, but needless to say, the tiger
barb died. I checked my water levels and everything seemed fine, even added
some fish-pen
<? don't know what this is>
just in case. The other tigers seemed to be fine. I had my husband take the
dead tiger barb back to the store and exchange him for another one. We brought
him home and introduced him to the community. Again, there seemed to be no
problems.
This morning, my albino tiger barb was exhibiting the same sort of
actions. Swimming on it's side in circles, all over the tank, very
erratically. I removed him from the tank, but needless to say, the albino now
has died. The other 3 tiger barbs seem fine, but I am worried that maybe this
is a parasite?
<Maybe>
I am also worried that it could be spread all over my tank and I may lose
other fish as well. I don't know what to do. I don't think this originated in
my tank, because all my other fish seem healthy. Please help?!?! Again,
neither of the 2 fish that I've lost have exhibited any sign of illness prior.
I do weekly 30% water changes and add 1 tablespoon aquarium salt per 5 gallons
and as I said, I checked my water levels, and they are fine.
Thanks in advance,
Jasmine
<Well... it may be that these new barbs really just died due to "stress"... most
are raised, shipped from the Far East... hormone-treated... Though sometimes
they are parasitized... most notably with Octomita/Hexamita (which you can
search)... At this junction I would do nothing to guess, treat the system... but
as you state, I would be careful re quarantining new livestock going forward.
Bob Fenner>
Tiger barb sick or just stressed? 1/7/07
Crew:
<Karen>
I have searched the internet and your website for a solution to my current
problem but haven't come across much good information about tiger barbs.
<A neat species... many beautiful "sports" nowadays>
I have 46 gallon moderately planted bowfront dedicated to tiger barbs. It's
been up and running for a couple months now with 9 barbs (3 tiger, 3 albino, and
3 green). The tank parameters as of yesterday were ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and
nitrate 10.
All the fish have been active until recently one of the tiger barbs has been
hanging out in a top corner of the aquarium. It is probably the smallest of the
9 barbs in the tank. It just doesn't seem to be thriving very well.
<Mmm, and should do fine here... enough space, good water quality...>
I try to watch at feeding time to see if it is eating. It will ignore feeding
time at first then start to seem interested. It swims over to the food with the
others but as soon as another barb comes along it hurries back to it's
corner. On the occasion it gets to some food, it just spits it back out. It
will try this a few times then just give up and hide in it's corner. I have
been observing the feeding behavior for the past few days. The hiding in the
corner behavior has been going on for 1-2 weeks.
<Likely a social/psychological component at play here... the one may be a
smaller male, with other males badgering it a bit>
I wondered if it was just a stress/getting picked on situation as there is one
albino barb that seems to be the dominant one chasing the others around the
tank.
<Mmm, yes, possibly>
I have had more barbs in quarantine waiting to go into the tank, so yesterday
I added 4 of those to try to divert the dominant one's attention and give the
"runt" a chance.
<Good idea>
Last night I removed the ailing or stressed barb to a divided portion of the
quarantine tank (the fish are disease free, just waiting to be added slowly to
the main tank) to give it a chance to rest and get food without competition.
<Also good>
Do you suggest I just wait and see if it starts eating or could there be some
sickness going on?
<I would do the former, not worry re the latter... Next trial, I'd move the
alpha fish... to the quarantine for a week or two>
The only reason I would think it might have some kind of infection is the taking
food in and spitting it back out behavior. All the other barbs it's been living
with seem to be fine.
<With this much time having gone by (since setting up, stocking) there is very
little chance of this being an expression of infectious or parasitic disease.
Could be genetic, developmental...>
I do have medicated food I could offer it but since it's not really eating
currently I don't see how that will help. I have other medications but I don't
want to go dumping them in when I'm not even sure if it is sick or not. Any
suggestions you may have on what course of action I should take would be
appreciated.
Thanks!
Karen
<I would do as you have thus far... Do you have a bit of greenery present for
multiple purposes? Food, making cover, improving water quality? I suggest adding
a "bunch" (un-tied) of a grass type plant... my pick would be Elodea/Anacharis.
Please read here re:
http://wetwebmedia.com/PlantedTksSubWebIndex/elodea.htm
Bob Fenner>
Re: Tiger barb sick or just stressed? 1/8/07
I ended up adding the barb back to the main tank as it didn't seem to be
interested in eating anything while in quarantine and I like to think conditions
are more favorable environmentally in the main tank.
<Yes, likely so>
There are plants available in the tank for them to browse on.
<Good>
I specifically added some Anacharis to the quarantine tank, but still no
interest.
<Mmm, takes time... days to weeks for fishes to "settle in" to being moved>
I'm thinking I will just let it be in the main tank and see what happens. It's
rather emaciated it seems at this point so I'm not sure this will end up a
success story.
<Mmm... do want to mention another possibility... that the wasting mentioned
might be due to (Myco) bacteria or a protozoan... the last very common with
freshwater cultured fishes from the Far East (where these Barbs very likely
originated... can be treated with Metronidazole/Flagyl...)... Do keep your
attention on the other fish for such sign... and be aware of treatment
probabilities>
I guess I will just hope he turns around soon unless you have other
suggestions?
<Mmm, none at this point>
I haven't tried eliminating the dominant one as there hasn't been much
behavior like that going on since new barbs were added, so I wouldn't be able to
guess right now at which one has been dominating. If I happen to notice a
specific one I will see about taking it out of the tank.
Thanks for your help!
Karen
<And you for this follow-up. Bob Fenner>
Re: Tiger barb sick or just stressed? 1/9/07
Thanks for your response. I haven't done anything further with the barb, he
was still hanging on this morning, but seemed to be resting among some exposed
sword roots. I currently don't see him, will have to do some searching around
but I fear I know his fate. One thing I do want to mention is that I have a
couple other smaller barbs that aren't thriving all that well either in the same
tank.
<A bad sign...>
I also have a couple that seem to have recurrent swim bladder problems. They
swim alright but once they stop they tend to "head stand".
<Can be genetic, or developmental/damage at play here>
I have taken to giving them sinking granules or soaking flake food for a bit
before feeding as I read that it's possible they just ingest too much air at
feeding time since they are voracious eaters.
<Yes... this and/or gasification of solid foods internally>
However, even with the treatment to food they seem to continue having this
problem. That being said, I wonder if there is some kind of bacterial infection
going on that's affecting the smaller barbs perhaps?
<Is a possibility, yes>
Would you recommend treating the entire tank with something such as you
suggested? I would hate to lose more barbs just from a failure to take
action. Thanks for your continued help.
Karen
<Is a "tough one" to gauge from here... all such treatments have their real and
potential downsides, but I would investigate the use of a compound
(anti-parasitic and anti-microbial) "laced" dried food... O.S.I. and Tetra used
to make these... You can search WWM, the Net in general re... Bob Fenner>
Tiger Barbs 4/3/07
I have 4 tiger barbs, they seem to be pretty healthy but sometimes one of
them swims nose down & stays like that for sometime by the driftwood. Is that
normal for tiger barbs to do that?
<This behavior is often in response to poor water conditions, especially high
levels of nitrate. Please check your water parameters.>
<Chris>
Sick fish, Tiger Barbs 5/25/07
Hi there,
<Devin>
Well, I've looked around and have conflicted information
<Heeee!>
so I thought I'd write you before it gets too far along. I think I have some
sick tiger barbs. I have 6 of them in a cycled 29 gallon tank. Parameters are
0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, 10 nitrates. One of the tiger barbs has stopped eating 3
days ago, looks like he is gulping for air, and swims in the same place all
day. The other fish still eat and swim normally, although I just saw another
barb excrete a more clear/stringy feces than I have previously seen. Other than
that, they look healthy and colorful. Now I have read several things that it's
probably an intestinal infection of some sort but I don't know how to treat it.
<Mmm, I do... I would offer a mix of an anti-protozoal and anthelminthic... The
first I'd look for Metronidazole/Flagyl, the second, likely Prazi(quantel)...
though other materia medica might be employed... These can be applied as food
additives, or pre-made foods with them incorporated... best, or added to the
water... Their use is covered on WWM>
I don't have a QT (I know, I know, I just can't afford an extra filter, heater
etc.). So what do you think is wrong and what medication should I use?
<Likely Octomita...>
I need a medication that won't wipe on my established bacteria in my tank.
Much thanks in advance,
Devin
<Agreed and welcome. Bob Fenner>
Tiger barbs hlth. – 05/05/07
Hello.
<Hello!>
I found you website very informative and thought I would throw out a question
for you.
<Okeley dokeley.>
I currently have a 29 gal. aquarium that is stocked with 3 tetras, 3 tiger
barbs, 4 speckled mollies, a large Pleco, a small Chinese algae eater and a
bumblebee catfish.
<Too many fish for such a small tank, and many incompatible with each other for
water chemistry and behavioral reasons. Please research fish *before* buying
them.>
My question is pertaining to my tiger barbs. I had three tiger barbs for
approximately 2 years, and about 6 months ago I noticed that they began
developing facial deformities, mostly to the mouth. One of them had a jaw that
appeared to grow swollen over a period of weeks until he could no longer eat.
They have since died.
<Mouth fungus more than likely. Very common when fish are kept in overcrowded
aquaria or tanks with poor water quality.>
About 4 months ago I purchased 3 baby tiger barbs. They were all healthy when
purchased and were purchased from a reputable fish dealer. One died in the past
few weeks, and I noticed today that the other two also have some sort of jaw
problem. The one appears to have lost the tip of his upper lip, and the second
one appears like his jaw is swollen. They both continue to eat well, as did the
other before they died (until the mouth was to closed up to allow food in).
<If you can't explain why a species fails to survive in your aquarium, it is
pretty foolish to go buy some more specimens of that species. Identify the
cause, fix the problem, *then* go buy some more.>
Now that I think of it, I did have a zebra Danio that had a tumor growing in his
abdomen until he died, and I also had a molly that was quite healthy for over a
year before growing small tumor like lumps to her face and dying.
<Far too many sick, dead fish. Tiger barbs should be living around 4 years,
Danios about the same.>
I do basic water tests and everything seems to come out within normal ranges.
<What's the "normal range" in your opinion? There is no normal range for ammonia
or nitrite for example -- these should be zero, period, end of story. For your
fishes, the pH should be around 7.2-7.5, given you have mollies that despise
acidic water conditions. I'd also want "moderately hard" water using whatever
scale you are measuring hardness by. Frankly, the mollies shouldn't be in this
tank because they do best in brackish water, and the Plec and Chinese algae
eater certainly shouldn't, the first because it is far too large (30-45 cm) and
the second because it is both large (30 cm) and nasty-tempered.>
Do I just seem to be having bad luck with fish and tumors/deformities?
<Not bad luck. Bad fishkeeping. Please read some more about the hobby before
killing any more fishes.>
Or do you think there could be something in the water that is actually causing
this?
<Yes, two things are in the water: [a] pollution of some type and [b] too many
fishes.>
Are tiger barbs predisposed to anything?
<Nope.>
As all mine seem to be affected. I would love to hear your opinion on this!!
<You have it. Now, before going forward, measure the nitrite, ammonia, pH and
hardness, and then get back to us. What type of filter are you using? What is
its turnover? Baseline, you need a filter offering turnover of around 4x the
volume of the tank per hour, so the filter should be 120 gallons per hour in
your case.>
Thanks so much.
<No problems.>
Julie Rutt
<Cheers, Neale>
|
Tiger Barb Mortality Rate
11/5/07
Dear WetWebMedia,
<Hello,>
I have a rather perplexing issue. I recently had a spare 55g setup that was
cycled and in good shape. Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates all 0, pH = 7.6, GH = 160
ppm, KH = 100 ppm (hard water). I also have a cycled 10g QT tank of the same
water chemistry. Also, I do keep aquarium salt in all my tanks at the
recommended dose.
<Hmm... no recommended dose of salt in my fishkeeping world. Salt is simply not
required in a freshwater aquarium in this modern age of proper filters and
regular water changes. The main job of salt these days is to make money for the
salt manufacturers and the retailers.>
All of the fish mentioned below are juveniles, about 1 inch long. I decided I
wanted a barb tank so I started with 4 Black Rubies. Two weeks in the QT, all
survived and into the 55g. Next came 5 Rosy barbs, same procedure, 2 week in QT
then into the 55g. Here comes the problem.
<OK.>
I placed 6 Tiger barbs in the QT tank. By the time the 2 weeks were up only 3
were left. The three that died started breathing heavily, then hiding, then
floating, then dead. I have not seen this type of death in anything other than
Neon Tetras which I don't keep anymore as they are not compatible with my water
chemistry. The 3 that survived went into the 55g and are happy and healthy, but
being Tiger Barbs 3 are not enough.
<Very odd.>
I went to a different fish store and got 6 more Tiger Barbs, only 2 survived of
this lot. Is there something about Tiger Barbs and my water chemistry?
<Sounds unlikely. Tiger Barbs are tolerant across a range of water chemistry
values. They should be fine in your tank. How much salt do you add? Taking fish
from a retailer's tank without salt and sticking them in a tank with salty water
could be problematic. But to be honest unless you're adding masses of salt (more
than, say, 9 grammes per litre) than it's hard to imagine this would a cause of
death.>
Since they are so closely related to the Black Rubies one would think they would
have a similar mortality rate.
<Agreed. They are basically identical in terms of needs.>
I am currently on hold with the mass executions of Tiger Barbs. Any advice would
be greatly appreciated.
<Do you do any gardening? Sometimes a species of plant just doesn't take no
matter what. I think fish can sometimes work like that too. A combination of
factors makes them unsuitable for your aquaria: water chemistry, diet, water
change regimen, tankmates, etc. For me, that species is Neon Tetras; no matter
what, they never last. So I don't bother with them. So my advice is skip the
Tiger Barbs and try something like Puntius pentazona instead.>
Regards,
Larry
<Good luck, Neale>
Re: Tiger Barb Mortality Rate 11/8/07
Dear Dr. Neale
Thank you for the prompt reply, I will follow your advise and change barb
directions. I would like to continue the discussion of salt in freshwater
aquariums. I think many of your readers would like to understand this. There is
a controversy on the internet about this subject. I want to do what is best for
my pets and if salt is unnecessary of harmful I don't want to use it. Please
help us understand this
Regards,
Larry
<Hi Larry. The issue with salt is essentially that freshwater fish have evolved
in environments where salt isn't present in the water. So from that perspective
at least, you don't need it in a freshwater tank. Having said this, salt has its
purposes. It's useful when transporting fish because it reduces the toxicity of
nitrite and nitrate, and that's why fish shippers and retailers often use it.
Salt can be used to kill whitespot. By elevating the mineral content of the
water salt may reduces the osmotic pressure on the fish in a useful way when
they're sick or stressed. On the other hand, a stable aquarium shouldn't have a
nitrite or nitrate problem. If your fish aren't sick, then they don't need salt
as a treatment. In some cases, even low salt concentrations seem to be factors
behind ill health in the long term: Malawi Bloat, a serious problem with
cichlids, seems to be connected (in part) to salt. Salt was very widely used
decades ago largely because the fish kept were hardy but the water quality often
very poor (filters were less efficient, and water changes of 25% per month were
considered adequate). So, the salt detoxified the nitrite and nitrate (which was
good) and the stress on the fish's osmoregulation system caused by using salt
(which was bad) was in effect the lesser of two evils. Nowadays we keep a wider
selection of fish, many of which, like Mbuna and tetras, are intolerant of salt.
Better water quality largely renders the benefits of adding salt irrelevant. At
best, it's a waste of money; at worst, it's a stress factor on delicate fish. My
position is basically this: unless you're using salt for a specific purpose (and
you understand that purpose and why salt helps) then don't use salt. It's a lot
like activated carbon -- a hangover from the old days of the hobby rendered
obsolete but still widely sold. If I could, I'd make salt and carbon
prescription-only drugs to keep them away from less experienced hobbyists! Hope
this helps, Neale>
|
|
Tiger barb [and African
butterfly fish] deaths :( 12/31/07
Hey there,
I recently stumbled across your website in a desperate bid for reasons for
tropical fish demise, and finding it both informative and relatively easy to
follow, I thought I could risk a question or two.
<Go ahead...>
Our family are fairly new to fish ownership; my younger brother has had tropical
fish since September. He had three green tiger barbs, one tiger barb, and then
about a week later he got two African butterfly fish and two Dalmatian mollies.
<A terrible combination of fish on so many levels. Tiger barbs are schooling
fish that MUST be kept in groups of six upwards. They are also notorious
fin-nippers, and will nip at Butterflyfish. Butterflyfish are demanding animals
not for beginners because they are quite tricky to feed. They need mature
aquaria with excellent water quality and ideally soft/acid conditions. Mollies,
on the other hand, need hard and alkaline water, preferably with salt added.
Butterflies and barbs do not like salt, so they can't be kept together. Mollies
are really fish for brackish water aquaria unless you are an expert fishkeeper
able to create alkaline, basic water with zero nitrate on a constant basis.
Please buy and read an aquarium book before shopping.>
For the first month or two the fish were absolutely fine. Then one of the
African butterfly fish showed strange behaviour, swimming upside down, floating
to the surface of the water and appearing to lack control of its movement. It
died shortly afterwards [within a day or two.]
<Most likely water quality/chemistry issues. Test nitrite and pH. In a new tank,
you should be doing this every couple of days anyway.>
Approximately a couple of weeks went by. A lot more recently our biggest green
barb showed similar behaviour - swimming sideways and upside down - and then
also died within a few days of this new behaviour.
<Ditto.>
Having noticed this similarity in their behaviour patterns before their deaths,
and upset to have lost another fish, we began to investigate as to why they were
dying. This is when I came across your site.
<Hmm...>
I am sad to say today [30 Dec] two more barbs have passed away - the tiger barb
and another green barb. The last green barb is currently still alive but judging
by the rate of passing we're not sure how long this will be the case.
<OK, this is almost certainly water quality problems. Have you cycled the tank
before adding fish? How big is the tank? What sort of filter are you using? What
books did you read before starting the hobby?>
We wondered at first whether it was an aeration problem - we had a filter
already of course which functions fine, but just to be safe we bought an aerator
separately which is now also functioning in the tank.
<Aeration is a trivial issue in most tanks, and a properly run aquarium doesn't
need any aeration. But filtration is something else: what is the nitrite level
in this tank?>
There are fresh, live plants and the temperature is about 25'C [which we
understand to be a suitable temperature.] The ph is 7 and we wondered whether
this would make a difference.
<pH 7 is too low for Mollies; Mollies must have not less than pH 7.5, which is
of course incompatible with Tiger Barbs and Butterflyfish, which prefer
6.5-7.5.>
We have been informed by our local aquarium [where we bought all these tropical
fish from] that the situation could be to do with the nitrate level etc. and
they are kindly testing a sample of water tomorrow.
<No no no... you need your own NITRITE (with an "I") test kit at home. No-one
starting the hobby should be without this ESSENTIAL piece of kit. Think it's a
waste of money? Too bad... your fish died anyway, likely because of nitrite
poisoning. Test kits are NOT optional.>
The Dalmatian mollies seem as perky and inquisitive as ever.
<Only a matter of time...>
I just wondered if there is any additional information or advice you could
provide about the reasons for my brother's barbs and butterfly fish deaths and
if they are related.
<Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwset-up.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwh2oquality.htm
And other related articles.>
If you could make any suggestions they would be greatly appreciated,
Rhiannon
<Read more and try to understand what is happening in your tanks before adding
any more fish. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Tiger barb [and African
butterfly fish] deaths :( 12/31/07
Hello Neale,
Thank you for the quick reply.
<You're welcome.>
I have taken into account everything you've said very seriously.
<Cool.>
Although I would like to say that I really don't appreciate the implication that
we don't care about the fish because that is far from the case.
<My mistake, and no offence meant.>
Our family didn't just go out and buy the fish. Before purchasing the fish we
owned A buyer's guide to tropical fish which states that mollies should have
ph7-7.4, and that barbs are unfussy within normal parameters, and as for the
necessity of the nitrite testing kit at home - our aquarium failed to inform us
of this necessity as well as telling us that barbs, mollies and butterfly fish
were compatible.
<Often the problem. These fish basically AREN'T compatible for the reasons
outlined. While Barbs can certainly thrive in hard, alkaline water (lots of
people keep them in southern England for example) most barbs do not tolerate
salt well, and sooner or later Mollies end up needing to be kept in salty water.
Sure, some people keep them without salt, but the simple fact is half the time
Mollies are sickly under such conditions, so why not make life easier for them
and for you and keep them in brackish water from the get-go. Aquarium shops
*can* be good sources of information, but it depends a lot on who you talk to,
and what the store specialises in. There are some aquarium store owners I
happily defer to when discussing healthcare of certain types of livestock. But
then there are other stores where staff are far less experienced/trained.>
So as far as we had known everything was fine and we had all the equipment we
needed, and now maybe our confusion is a little bit more understandable.
<I hope so to.>
Well before your reply things got worse and we were left with one green barb and
two Dalmatian mollies.
<OK.>
We had the water sample done and the aquarium said that the levels were fine and
that the deaths could have been caused by shock at the disturbance of their tank
when we added the aerator and could have churned up too much dirt when cleaning
their tank.
<Hmm... "levels were fine" covers a lot of ground. So rather than telling me
subjectively what the water chemistry/quality is, how about some numbers? Or let
me put things this way: Both fish need zero ammonia and nitrite. Mollies also
need nitrate levels less than 20 mg/l when kept in freshwater (in
brackish/marine conditions they are less sensitive). Barbs want a pH between 6.5
and 7.5, while Mollies want something between 7.5 and 8.0. Hardness is also
critical. Mollies absolutely MUST NOT be kept in water with a general hardness
less than 20 degrees dH; Barbs prefer softer water, around 5-15 degrees dH. In
terms of salinity, I STRONGLY recommend Mollies be kept at a salinity of at
least 3-5 grammes per litre; Tiger Barbs at least cannot tolerate this level of
salt for long (there are some brackish water barbs to be sure, but they're
mostly the larger species). As should be obvious, there's no overlap in what
Mollies and Barbs want, hence my advice -- based on experience -- that these
fish shouldn't be mixed. By all means try to go against Nature, but you'll
lose...>
Also, to answer your question our tank is 60 litres. [That is the measurement we
are aware of.]
And unfortunately three more mollies had been purchased before I read your
email.
<OK, 60 litres is quite a small tank, and while adequate for small community
fish like Neons, it isn't really viable long-term for any of the fish you've
got. Depending on the precise strain of Dalmatian Molly, adult females can get
to something around 8-10 cm in length, males a little less. Males can be
aggressively possessive of access to females, and a tank this size is very
definitely one male only! Black Mollies are marginally smaller, around 7 cm or
so when mature. While they could be kept in a 60 litre tank, I'd recommend
something a bit bigger.>
So, evidently it seems an increasing mess. We have one green barb and three
black mollies, and two Dalmatian mollies.
<Oh.>
We were told that the conditions and everything is fine. So it's hard to know
where to go from here.
<Horses, stables, and bolting come to mind here. In any case, I can only
reiterate something that you probably understand now anyway: fish need to be
researched before purchase. Here's the thing to do: First start off by figuring
out your precise water chemistry in terms of pH, hardness (the dH scale), and if
you can, carbonate hardness (the KH scale). Decide whether you want to add salt
to the tank or not. Then try and return the fish you currently have, and
exchange them for smaller fish suited to the tank you have. Endler Guppies,
Neons, cherry barbs, Sparkling Gouramis, Bumblebee gobies, Cherry Shrimp, dwarf
species of Corydoras, Kuhli loaches, and so on would all be inexpensive, easy to
keep animals ideally suited to 60 litre tanks. Keep suitable numbers where
required, i.e., trios (or more) of the loaches and catfish, at least six Neons,
etc. Basically you want fish no more than 3-4 cm/1-1.5" in length, except in the
case of wormy things like Kuhli that happily make do in small tanks since they
wiggle about rather than swim.>
Thank you.
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: African Knife
Problem and other questions 12/31/07
Hello again,
<Hello for the first time...>
I hope you don't mind me asking you another question. I have a 65 gallon
tank 48" by 13" and 24" tall (kinda odd shape). I am currently just
running an AquaClear 70 filter. I am worried about the oxygen levels in
the tank.
<Oh? Well, the two things to concentrate on are circulation (moving the
water from the bottom to the top) and supplementary aeration (basically
"splashing", anything that increases the surface area at the top of the
tank). Of course, if you aren't overstocked, you won't have problems.
The traditional approach is to allow 10 square inches per 1 inch of
small fish like guppies and Dwarf Gouramis. Allow two, three, four times
more "square inchage" for bigger fish. So your tank, with 624 square
inches could support 62 and a bit inches of small fish, and rather fewer
bigger fish.>
I plan on having a
African Knife, three Gouramis, 5 Congo tetras, couple Cory cats, snails,
and I'm going to try a full size Singapore Shrimp (the AK seems pretty
satisfied with his krill and blackworms at the store, I think it will be
fine).
<Hmm... famous last words. But do watch out with African Knives; though
quite placid when young, at least some specimens become rather mean as
they mature.>
No live plants, only lots of fakes. I decided against the peace lily
idea.
<Sounds wise. A dying plant will only consume oxygen...>
Do you think I need
to supplement the oxygen with a bubbler or something?
<Maybe; but do remember its circulation -- not bubbles -- that matter.
So what you want is something that pulls water from the bottom to the
top of the tank. A decent airstone will do this if weighted down to the
bottom of the tank, but so too will a filter or powerhead. Try
sprinkling some flake food at the bottom of the tank; if it sits about
or moves slowly, then you may need more circulation.>
I appreciate your time and advice.
Julie
<Happy to help.>
PS Happy New Year!
<Likewise, happy new year! Neale.>
Re: Tiger barb [and
African butterfly fish] deaths :( 12/31/07
Hiya
[Is yours an American site by the way? Just curious]
<The founder and queen bee of Wet Web Media, Bob Fenner, certainly is a
citizen of the Good Ole' US of A, but yours truly is a Brit.>
Thank you very much for all the advice.
<No problems.>
It's very helpful and hopefully now we can provide a better future for
our fish.
<Glad to help.>
Tetras were going to be the original choice - shame [understatement
really] that we didn't stick with that.
<Is always the way. Read first, plan second, buy third.>
We'll see what we can do
<Cool. Enjoy your fish, Neale.> |
Tiger Barb, hlth./env., Algicide use
2-4-08
I have had a 29 gallon tank for four months now (before that I had a 10
gallon tank for one year), and when I first got it I moved my one remaining
tiger barb to my tank.
<Hello, Merritt here. That must be one lonely tiger barb, these fish are
schooling and need to be in groups of six or more for them to be happy.> I had
purchased him August 29, he seem very happy in the tank swimming all around and
eating plenty. Well my parents did not like having just one little fish in there
so I bought six other fish from Wal-mart and kept them in their own tank for
three weeks.
<What species of fish did you buy? And did you monitor the water chemistry? (pH,
ammonia, nitrate, nitrites?)> One of them was really small but my parents did
not want me to have two tanks so he went in with the others.
<So your fish are in the 10 gallon or 29 gallon?>
Everything went fine, until the algae started, so I bought two of the smallest
algae eaters that I could find (I do not like algae eaters they look ugly).
<I personally don't like them either>
They where so small they could not keep up with the growth so I put in
"Jungle-No more algae" then within two days they where each dead, can I not put
in algae tablets with algae eaters?
<You might have suffered a change in water chemistry when adding the other fish
which could have caused your fish demise. Many algae destroying products are
known to be harmful to specific species of fish and this could have been the
reason your fish died. I usually don't recommend algicides of any sort. Also,
your problem with algae is due to a high amount of nutrients in the water, are
you feeding your fish too much? Or not enough water changes? Here are some links
to algae problems and freshwater care,
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwalgcontrol.htm and
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwh2ochgs.htm.
Take a look at these areas of WWM and
others, as the answers to your questions are all on our website. Hope this
helps! Merritt>
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