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| FAQs on the Zebra Danios Health Related Articles:
Barbs, Danios &
Rasboras, A
Barbed Response; Wrongly maligned for being fin-nippers, barbs are in fact
some of the best fish for the home aquarium by Neale Monks
Related FAQs: Zebra Danios 1,
Zebra Danios
2, & FAQs
on: Zebra Danios Identification,
Zebra Danios Behavior,
Zebra Danios
Compatibility, Zebra Danios Selection,
Zebra Danios Systems,
Zebra Danios
Feeding, Zebra Danios Reproduction, &
Barbs,
Danios, Rasboras 1, Barbs,
Danios, Rasboras 2, B,D,R Identification,
B,D,R Behavior,
B,D,R Compatibility, B,D,R Selection,
B,D,R Systems,
B,D,R Feeding, B,D,R Disease, |
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Crooked Danio Baby 10/30/08
Dear WWM Crew,
<Hello!>
Hi, I am raising four baby Danio fish in a three gallon tank with a sponge
filter and a heater.
The heater temperature set a 75 degrees. I feed them small meals three to four
times a day and change the water once everyday.
<Sounds great.>
One of my baby Danio fish tail in the back seems to be crooked.
<Not uncommon with fish generally. The longer a species has been bred in
captivity, which almost always means inbreeding, the more likely bad genes will
surface. Nothing much you can do.>
The baby Danio fish that has the crooked spine is eating and swimming normally.
<May well remain fine, but often such fish have other problems as well and die
sooner or later. It's your choice whether to destroy the fish or let nature take
its course.>
I read that this can be a vitamin deficiency or a genetic problem.
<Can be either, but with "common" fish like Danios and Corydoras that have been
bred for many generations in captivity, genetics is most likely the issue.>
If this is a vitamin deficiency what foods or vitamins can I give him/her to
help overcome this deficiency?
<The damage is done; there isn't anything you can do. Next time around, you
might decide to get parent fish from two or more stores, so that the odds of
inbreeding are reduced.>
Thanks ahead of time for all your help. Jean
<Good luck, Neale.>
Zebra Danios don't look right
8/24/08
Dear Wet Web Guys:
<Coleen>
I have attached an image to show you how fat some of my zebra Danios
have become, but these fish won't stay still for a photo and the lights
not right. Sorry. It looks like the works of a Dutch Master.
<Hey!>
I initially thought this fish was "with eggs", but as she has remained
big for months without change, I am wondering if she is less than
healthy. Perhaps I have overfed her (and if so does she need a "diet").
I feed them Tetra Min flakes twice a day - only so much as they finish
in 2 minutes. They don't really eat that much. (My growing female
guppies in another tank can out eat them hands down on any day of the
week).
<Mmmm...>
I am beginning to think it might be a more sinister problem - Is it
possible that several things I have noticed are coming to suggest
another problem?
<Is mostly a matter of diet here...>
Cracks in their skin: For example, I notice that larger of the six
Danios I keep in this 10G tank have apparent cracks in their skin
(especially underbelly).
Dark Spots: I have also just recently noticed several indistinct dark
spots on the head of another fat girl. (I think they are girls, more
silvery) I believe the spots are a new development for this particular
fish as I have not noticed these before yesterday.
Tail ends drop down: Their tail end drops down when they pause from
swimming.
Perhaps just aging? I don't think so: I wondered if my zebras might just
be getting old, but I haven't had more than a year and they were all
svelte when I bought them.
Tank set-up: Over the back filter which I turn off at night. Aerating
with oxygen wand, no heater in tank. Central air in the house kept at
79. Aquarium planted with low-light plants and with substrate of
laterite, 3mm gravel and Eco-complete and some Mopani driftwood. Using
tap water treated with Tetra AquaSafe and tsp API aquarium salt per 10G
with 1/3 water changes every week.
<Good practice>
Today's Quick Dip Test Results:
pH 6.2
KH 40 ppm
Cl 0 ppm
GH 75 ppm
Nitrite 0 ppm
Nitrate <20 ppm
Thank you for any insight you can provide regarding these problems.
Coleen
<I do think that simply changing their diet will result in slimming,
improved health here. I encourage you to feed frozen/defrosted once per
day (the AM likely) and the Tetra the evening meal. Brine shrimp or
Daphnia are my choices for the bfast meals. Bob Fenner> |
|
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Dying Fish... Brachydanio
8/5/08
HI
I was trying to put out some of the stagnant water in my breeder's tank, and
when I put it back into its suction I accidentally, partly crushed a Zebra
Danio. He is now coughing upside down at the bottom of the tank. He is
jerking around a bit. What should I do?
Sarah
<Hello Sarah. If the fish isn't dead yet, my assumption would be the
physical damage is so severe recovery is unlikely. So if this appears to be
the case, euthanasia is the only reasonable option.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/euthanasiafaqs.htm
Cheers, Neale.>
Lumpy Danio
Hi Bob, <Don here today, Hi back>
We have a 10 gallon tank and have managed to keep 4 zebra Danios and one golden
algae eater alive for 10 months. We have a carbon filter and change the filter
every month. We perform water changes every 2-4 weeks (2 gals per time - treated
with AquaSafe). We added a small aerator (bubbler) about six weeks ago. The
bubbler is not adjustable so it runs
constantly and seems noisy. <Get a 3 way valve for the airline. Open the valve
to the bubbler all the way. Close another. Open the third to slow the air flow
to the bubbler. Adjust the blank valve until you get a good air flow. If it
hisses, add a foot or so of airline as a muffler> Lights are on from 8 am to 8
pm daily. <Good>
Recently one Danio started developing a lump on its spine. Over the course of
two weeks the Danio became listless and spent much time on the bottom of the
tank. We removed him to a temporary place and tested the aquarium water. <Good
to remove him. Is the spine bending? Or does it look like a small pea under the
skin>
Temp 74 degrees <Ok, but 76 to 78 better>
Ammonia 0 <Great>
Nitrate 40 <Good, but a little high. Try to keep below 20ppm>
Nitrite 0 <Great>
Hardness 25 <Hard>
Alkalinity 300 (high) <Very>
pH 8.4 (high) <Very, very>
Do you know what the lump is? <Could be a tumor, in which case there is nothing
to do. Sorry> Can the fish be saved? Right now he's sitting at the bottom of
the temporary shelter, barely moving but still breathing. <This could be just
about anything. I would try a good broad spectrum antibiotic. However, if the
spine is bending the fish must be put down. Bury or put in trash. Do not flush.
Wear gloves>
Is the pH or alkalinity to blame? <Could be. Danios will adapt to a wide range
of water conditions, but yours are extreme. You could try peat moss in the
filter. It will stain the water a rich tea color. Charcoal will remove the
color> Should we take corrective action? <As above> Did the bubbler cause
anything? <No>
Thanks,
Peg
Danio Problems
Hi,
I started off with 5 Zebra Danios and 4 Peppered Corys in a 70 litre tank and
I'm now down to 2 Danios. About 5 months ago one of them got really bloated
overnight and I found him the next day looking like his stomach had burst. Last
week another one bloated up and then dropped dead within two days. Last night
though, I noticed another one carrying what looked like a bruise on his side, he
looked red beneath his skin then this morning he was dead on the substrate with
what looked like two, small skin bubbles protruding from his underside. <Hi
Dave, Don here. Two things come two mind. Let's hope it's a water quality issue.
Do you check your water for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate? Any amount of the
first two could be the cause. But, if you see any Danios showing a bend in their
spine you have TB in your tank. If so, then the fish will have to be put down
and the system sterilized. TB can spread to humans with a break in the skin. Be
careful and wear gloves. There are also other bacterial infections that can
cause this. If the spines are straight, try a good broad spectrum antibiotic.
Oxytetracycline may help. Like I said, let's hope it a water quality issue>
I replace 5 <less than 10%> litres of the tank water every 7 days and the tank
looks clean but there is obviously something going wrong somewhere.
Any advice would be more than appreciated as I really don't want the fish to
suffer any more. <First thing I would do is test the water. If you see any
ammonia or nitrite, or if nitrate is over 20ppm, fix it with large (50%+) water
changes daily. I would also up your normal water changes to around 20 to 30%>
Thanks and best regards,
David
Danio Problems
Hi, Thanks for your advice. I have just been out to buy testing kits and
will test the water quality when I have finished work this evening, I really
hope it is poor water as the TB possibility terrifies me if I'm honest. How
worried should I be for my own health, I know you say that it can enter humans
via open wounds but what about just being around the tank, do you know if it
becomes airborne? <No, it can't. I must enter through a break in the skin>
Also, do you know of any websites that you know of where I would find pictures
of Zebra Danios with TB (curved spine etc). <Here's a link to my photos in our
forum. Scroll down to the next to last pic. The two female White Clouds at the
top of the photo show the bend pretty well.
http://wetwebfotos.com/Home?actionRequest=userview&userID=4258 Some fish
become very thin, mine bloated.>
Sorry if I seem to be panicking a little! <Understood. I really try to pass
along the warning without causing any undo concern. I rarely succeed. Some say
the bacteria is always present in our tanks, and that it takes a drop in the
fish's immune system for it to show. If true, it would seem transmission to
humans is rather rare. But some very respected people here suggest sterilization
of the entire system whenever TB is found. That's a hard call to make, but
harder to argue against. Let's hope it's the water. Don>
Thanks again,
David
Dying Danios
Hi, We've had our tank for about 3 months now. Among the second batch of
fish we got were three Zebra Danios. All three have since died, one after the
other. The first one experienced a bloating and a dullness of his color a few
days before dying. Both the others seemed to waste away, becoming very thin over
a period of about two weeks. All refused to eat after the symptoms set in. It
took all three of them about a month and a half to die total. All the other fish
in the tank seem to be doing fine. Is this something that we should be concerned
about either for the other fish or for ourselves, or was this just a "bad batch"
of fish?
-Greg
<Hi Greg, Don here. I do think you got a batch of bad fish. The question is bad
with what? They had some sort of internal infection. It could have been anything
from bacteria, protozoa, even worms. Knowing what type of infection it was would
set the risk to the other fish and yourself. If the Danios spines curved as they
wasted away then they had fish TB, which humans can catch through breaks in the
skin. I would just watch the others at this point. If any more get thin, email
us back with details>
Hunchback Danio
I am a fairly new aquarium hobbyist (1 year) and keep having a problem
with "hunchback" Danios in my one of my tanks. <Not good> The tank in question
is
a small Eclipse Hexagonal 5 gallon with a small pebble base, plastic
rock formations and a couple of small live plants that was cycled about
4 months ago. There are currently 3 Zebra Danios, a Chinese Algae Eater
and many small snails (from the live plants) in the tank. My current
readings are Ammonia 0, pH 7.0, Nitrite at 0 and Nitrate is 20. <Thanks for
testing your water and sharing the results. But not the problem here.> I have
had two other Danios run through the same symptoms as the current one,
hunched back, decreased size, hover at the top of the tank, don't play
with the other fish, don't eat and then finally end up as floaters that
get flushed.
I would like to avoid flushing anymore of the little guys if at all
possible, symptoms just started a few days ago, can you help?
Shelly
<Hi Shelly, Don here. I saw where you posted this in our forum and strongly
agree with Steve and others that this is a situation where the fish should be
put down safely. The hunchback Danios have TB that can spread to humans. I know
it's hard, but this is one of those times that as responsible pet owners we must
act in order to keep ourselves and our other fish safe.>
Humpback Danios
I did not explain correctly on the bio-filter, it is a bio-wheel. Can it be
sterilized? <Yes. Soak it in a bleach solution then rinse well and soak in
dechlorinator. Good to go. Boiling would also work, but may warp the wheel. Don>
Shelly
Humpback Danios
Okay, I think I have come to the realization that I need to put my good
little fish down and sterilize the tank but one more question. This
tank has a bio-filter; do I need to get rid of it too? <No need to throw it
away, but it must be sterilized like the tank. You will need to recycle it. Just
refill it and throw in a small cocktail shrimp or a pinch of food. When both
ammonia and nitrite have spiked and crashed you're good to go. Figure 3 to 6
weeks. Don>
Shelly
Humpback Danios
Okay, I think I have come to the realization that I need to put my good
little fish down and sterilize the tank but one more question. This
tank has a bio-filter; do I need to get rid of it too? <No need to throw it
away, but it must be sterilized like the tank. You will need to recycle it. Just
refill it and throw in a small cocktail shrimp or a pinch of food. When both
ammonia and nitrite have spiked and crashed you're good to go. Figure 3 to 6
weeks. Don>
Shelly
|
I need help fast for my zebra Danio
I'm not really sure what the problem is.
<Sabrina here, to try and help>
He or she, I can't tell, has just over the past few days shown any of the listed
symptoms. swollen belly, hunchback tail, head pointed upward, won't eat, but he
swims normal hangs out at the top with the rest of the zebras.
<Hmm, this isn't a lot to go off.... Can you give us some more specs about
your tank? How big is the tank? What other fish are in
with the Danio? Do you test your water for pH, ammonia, nitrite, and
nitrate? If so, can you let us know the values? What you
describe could be a number of things, but what sticks out most to me is the
swollen belly - are his scales sticking out, pinecone fashion? I'm
afraid you *might* be dealing with dropsy, which is extremely difficult to cure
at best, but perhaps there are other possibilities, too. Let us know
more about your tank, and we'll be more able to help you figure out what's
wrong.>
Thank you for your time.
<No problem - I wish you the best.>
Zebra Danio with strange caudal fin 1/16/06
Hello there! I've been breeding zebra Danios for a while, and recently,
after my fry matured into full grown adults, I noticed that a few of them have a
different colored caudal fin. All them, except these few, have the lines going
through their body, go into the fin, ending when the fin stops. However, for
these few, it stops where this fin is attached to the body, and on the fin, it
has blotches of like black lines and black dots all mixed up on the tail
randomly, that really sticks out, and sort of reminds me of a guppies tail. I
tried to take pictures so I could attach it to this, to show you what i mean,
but i couldn't get the camera to focus on the Danio and everything kept coming
out blurry and unfocused so you couldn't really tell what was going on. I looked
all over the net but i couldn't find anything about Zebra Danios with tail fins
like this, and I thought this might be something new going on, because I've
never seen any other Danios like this before until now. What do
you think?
Thanks, Tyler Ross
<Mmm, likely just part of the randomness of genetic mix... This is how the vast
majority of sport mutations are "developed"... e.g. long tails... Bob Fenner>
Zebra Danios With TB 12/05/2005
Hi, We have 10 gallon tank and have started the tank 4 months from now. We bought 3
Danios to start with, and they did very well for first 2.5-3
months. We used to do weekly water change. Our local pet store suggested to not to change water for first month to have fully cycled tank. We stopped
the water change. I am not sure if this is the cause or something else, but we lost our smallest fish during this time.
Rest two fishes has lived fine for some time and they started slowing down. They used to eat a lot and swim around in whole tank that is filled with
natural plants. They stopped eating with that eagerness. They stopped playing. We noticed that their spine is also got curved.
First we were thinking that they are getting old. After reading FAQ section in your
website, we are scared about fish TB.
I have been touching the water to clean up the tank. Though I don't have any wounds, but still I am scared and wanted to know what measure we can take to
diagnose if we got infected or not.
About the fishes, now they both are dull and during the night they lie down on the bottom of tank. Actually till light is off mostly they lie down on
the bottom. If light is on, they try to swim. We can see they have hard time swimming. They most stand still at one place. I have also read on internet
somewhere that when they are at the end of their life cycle, then also they develop curve in their spine. So how do I know if my fishes have TB or they
are just old.
In summary these are questions I have.
1) What measures can we take to find out if we have infected ourselves with the fish TB?
< Fish TB is very very rare. If people were getting infected and it was a problem I think you would see warnings all over the place. As a precaution I just wash up after having my hands in an aquarium.>
<Rare in people, yes.... but I have seen many, many cases in fish
lately - many of which were Betta splendens.... -SCF>
2) how do I find out if my fish's spine is getting curved because they are old or they have fish TB?
< More than likely your fish are getting old. Usually these little guys don't last more than a couple of years tops and the
contouring of the spine is one of the signs of a fish getting older.>
3) In case of fish TB, how do I sterilize the whole tank? Do we have to start from scratch for the new fishes?
< I think you fish may have gotten ill due to poor water quality. Check the nitrates. The lower the better. These little guys like clean well oxygenated water.-Chuck>
Danio with bubble-like growth 4/3/06
Hey Crew. My zebra Danio has recently developed a small, bubble-like
growth on it's bottom lip. I've had this fish for a just over a month, and
this has developed perhaps within the last week or so... just after the fish
was added to the main tank. I would have liked to attach a picture, but I'm
sure you know how difficult it is to get a zebra Danio to sit still. The
bubble is grey/clear in colour, and probably about 1mm in diameter. I'm
fairly sure it's not ich, as it isn't white and has a well-defined round
shape. The fish is otherwise swimming, eating, and behaving normally.
<A good clue... very likely this is "just resultant from a bump">
Here's the data on this fish's environment: 20 gal. tank with live plants,
heated to 23-24c. Tankmates are two other zebra Danios, two dwarf Otos, and
four Cory cats, all healthy. The tank is cycled, readings are ammonia 0,
nitrite 0, nitrate approx. 15 ppm, pH stable at 8.0-8.1.
<A bit high...>
In my own research to determine what this growth is, I saw references to lip
fibroma, but I only read of it occurring in angel fish. Could this be what's
afflicting my Danio, or is something else afoot in my tank?
<Could be an "oma", tumorous... but doubtful here... And assuredly nothing
one can treat... nor would I risk excising it. Likely will "go" of its own
accord. Bob Fenner>
As always, thanks in advance for any help you can offer. JM
Wasting symptoms in Zebra Danio 3/15/06
Hello,
<Sharon>
I had a 30L freshwater BiOrb containing 3 White Cloud Minnows, 2 Zebra Danios
and a living plant.
Water condition is good - Ammonia 0, Nitrates 0, Nitrites 0 and pH 7.6.
About 6 weeks ago I lost one of the Minnows. Symptoms included enlarged abdomen
(I initially thought it may have been pregnant) followed by (48 hours before
death) bent spine, floating near surface and lack of appetite.
In recent weeks I have noticed:
* one of the Danios appears to be wasting away i.e. is very skinny
(although it is still eating normally and active),
* one of the Minnows appears to have an enlarged abdomen (also eating
normally and active).
I lost a second Minnow last night - not the one with the enlarged abdomen. I had
been away for a couple of days and returned to find it with looking skinny with
a bent spine. It also had swim difficulties (probably due to bent spine), lack
of appetite and was floating near surface. I quarantined it immediately in salt
water, but to no avail.
I have searched your website and come to the conclusion that my fish may have
either an internal parasite (bad) or TB (really bad). What do you think?
<Could be... perhaps from just "initial" troubles (you bought them with this)...
But could be environmental to a large extent... or nutritional. What do you feed
your fishes?>
And, if you could provide some advise for on my next course of action that would
be much appreciated?
Regards,
Sharon Bell.
<Mmm, I would ask your stockist/LFS if they've been having trouble with their
minnow fishes... You can/could become involved in sequential antimicrobial
"trials"... in the hope of blocking something at play here. My first choice
would be a Furan compound (likely Furanace). Bob Fenner>
Re: Wasting symptoms in Zebra Danio 3/17/06
Hi Bob,
<Sharon>
Thanks for the speedy reply.
<Welcome>
I just wanted to let you know that I didn't buy the fish with the BiOrb. I
set the BiOrb up about 9 months ago initially (unsuccessfully) with a couple
of small fancy goldfish.
<I see>
The Danios and minnows were purchased and added to the tank 3-4 months ago -
after a 75% water (de-chlorinated) change, a thorough cleaning of the BiOrb
and making sure that the BiOrb had cycled.
I feed them frozen daphnia, frozen bloodworms, flake food (left over from
the goldfish - but I did compare the ingredients with those of the other
fish foods available) and boiled peas. If I go away, I leave them a sinking
pellet (Spirulina rich) to nibble on.
<Should be fine>
I do a 25% water (de-chlorinated) change fortnightly, and change my filter
quarterly - whether it's dirty or not. (The Danios and minnows are much
cleaner than the goldfish were!)
<Yes>
I live in Australia and haven't been able to find anything containing a
furan compound.
Also, what did you mean by antimicrobial trials? And, how would I carry
those out?
<Mmm... there are a goodly number of "broad spectrum, gram-negative antibiotics"
sold for pet-fish use... And as hinted, the "search" for one that is efficacious
here is a matter of trial/s... I would use (serially) what you can find... at
a/the stock dosage of 250 mg./ten gallons system water... three times, three day
intervals... with water changes between>
I will ask my LFS if they have had any trouble with their minnows this
weekend, but in the meantime is there anything else you suggest?
Regards,
Sharon.
<Mmm, the application of Epsom salt here might act as a temporary cathartic. Bob
Fenner>
Minnow behaviour & health 10/3/06
Hi
<Hello there Charlotte>
I have four pairs of minnows (2 zebra Danios, 2 coldwater, 2 long fin and 2
yellow ones: apologies for the lack of description by proper name but I can't
remember).
<Perhaps a small journal you can keep...>
They all get along quite happily with four fancy goldfish and a coldwater Plec
and all seem in general good health, having joined the goldfish approx 6 months'
ago.
On Sunday, I purchased 3 very tiny fantails (one smaller than the zebra
minnows!) and all seem well. Today I have noticed that the yellow and long-fin
minnows seem to be displaying to each other by opening their fins wide and
synchronized swimming! I have been trawling the internet and my books but none
give any indication as to what this behaviour means.
<Perhaps reproductive behavior... maybe just dominance displays>
Is it possible that it's due to the slightly reduced territory now there are 3
new fantails (albeit very small ones) or is it a breeding thing (one of the
yellow ones looks a bit portly)?
<How large is this system?>
As a secondary point, on reading various articles relating to minnows I noticed
in one of yours reference is made to a bent spine indicating TB infection.
<One possible cause of several... covered on WWM.>
This concerns me as one minnow has a very bent spine. He's always looked like
this, has grown well since purchase, as have all the other fish. As mentioned
above, all of the fish in the tank seem in general good health and water quality
is fine. Should I be concerned about TB or do I just have a minnow with a wonky
back?
Your comments would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks,
Charlotte
<Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshsystems.htm
You may need more room, less fish livestock. Bob Fenner>
Zebra Danio
with growth? on side 9/23/07
Hi,
I have an approx 35-40 gallon tank-it's one of the tall 6 sided ones. I
inherited it from a business I purchased a little over a year ago, and
ended up moving it to my house. It came with a few swordtails, and I
added 3 zebra Danios about a year ago. Two swordtails died three or four
months ago, I had calculated they were at least 2 years old, and
possibly as old as 4 according to an employee so I assumed it was due to
old age. There was 1 swordtail left and the 3 Danios, and we added 3
Cory cats. Nothing else has been added in the last 3 or 4 months.
There's a hang-on filter as well as a long airstone in the bottom, and
there's a really thick gravel layer. I vacuum the gravel and do about a
30% water change every few weeks- I know it's pretty lightly stocked so
confess I haven't been too terribly obsessive about this. I have not
added more fish as I have been pretty busy and didn't want to upset the
balance in the tank as everyone had been settled a while.
Last week, the last remaining swordtail died. I know she was only about
a year old as she was a baby when I inherited the aquarium.
She acted fine, then one day I noticed her hiding in the plants,
(plastic plants) next morning was dead.
Last night, I noticed one of the Danios has a horrible growth? sore?
something on his side. It looks for all the world like his intestines
are spilling out of his side. Last night it was red with a white spot on
the top, like a pimple. Today the white spot is gone. He was swimming
and schooling normally last night, but today is at the bottom in the
plants, hiding. The other fish are acting fine.
Please advise on how I should try to treat him-is it some sort of
parasite? I tried all sorts of searches but couldn't find anything. I
don't have a quarantine tank or extra filter but could put him in a
bowl, or something similar.
Sarah
<Sarah, without a picture it is impossible to safely identify this
disease or problem. From the sounds of things -- where you are seeing
internal organs pushed against the skin -- it sounds like a tumour or
cyst of some sort. These are relatively uncommon in aquarium fish, and
there causes are various. There is no cure, and generally the best
situation with very small fish (like Danios) is to painlessly destroy
the fish. Large fish, such as big cichlids and Koi, can sometimes be
treated by a vet, either through surgery or via drugs. Now, this isn't
to say that destroying the fish is the end of the story. Whenever fish
sicken or die within a short space of time, you need to wheel out the
nitrite and pH test kits. Use the nitrite test kit to make sure the
filter is working properly. If the nitrite level is anything other than
0, you have a problem. Likewise, the pH test kit will reveal if the
water chemistry is stable. For the collection of fish you have, the
ideal pH is around 7.5, and more specifically you want moderately hard
water as well. Also, you might consider increasing the water changes. A
good level is 50% weekly, though if the tank is understocked, you might
be okay with 25% weekly. Cheers, Neale>
Update-Zebra Danio with growth
PICTURES 9/23/07
These 2 pictures show the growth on the Danio- the first one you can see
how it protruded. The second one, only about an hour later, is of the
dead fish- it was stuck to the water intake on the growth side, and the
growth was no longer protruding and looked like the skin was rubbed off,
but you can see the size/position. (I do have bigger pictures, if
needed.)
<Definitely a tumour of some sort. No cure in a fish this size. Can be
caused by any number of different things. Concentrate on check water
quality and chemistry, and then acting accordingly. Cheers, Neale>
Update: Zebra Danio with growth
9/23/07
Hello,
<Hello,>
I sent a question earlier today regarding my zebra Danio with a growth
on its side-it had some details about the problem, and the history of my
tank (acquired as part of a business purchase.)
Unfortunately, the Danio has died. One moment it was schooling and I was
trying to take pictures, I came back and it was dead and stuck to the
water intake. I have taken several pictures which I am sending in a
separate e-mail, as I am still wondering what this was and what caused
it, and I am worried about my other fish as I seem to have more
problems.
<Ah well, nature took its course there...>
I wanted to give a bit more info as I was in a hurry earlier. After
e-mailing you, I did about a 20% water change-I replaced 9 gallons.
My standard procedure involves mixing the tap water with a dechlorinator
in a 3- gallon bucket, then adding slowly to the aquarium in case of
temp variations. I used Stress Coat by Aquarium Pharmaceuticals. I have
3 gallons marked on the bucket and added 3 ml of product to each bucket,
as directed on the product for stressed fish. (is this a suitable
product, btw? I noticed your article talking about "real" dechlorinators
but not sure how to tell which is which.)
<They're all "real", but the question is whether or not your
dechlorinator removes chloramine as well. Some do, some don't. If your
local water board puts chloramine into the water (not all of them do)
then adding a standard dechlorinator without chloramine remover results
in high levels of ammonia. This ammonia is toxic to the fish. 'Stress
Coat' has chloramine remover, so should be fine.>
I have a hang-on "Aqua Tech 20-40" filter, and also replaced the filter
cartridge (not the biological medium, just the carbon filter.)
<I'd bin the carbon, and add more biological filter media. Carbon is
redundant in most freshwater tanks, and is a positive risk in some ways,
because it removes medications.>
I added new water slowly to minimize any temp variations. I usually
match the new water temp to the existing water temp by the decidedly
low-tech method of "feeling."
<It doesn't really matter too much if the new water is cold. Provided
the water temperature difference is a few degrees C, the fish couldn't
care less, and some, like Danios and Corydoras, actually like swimming
into cold water.>
I noticed the water in the aquarium seemed awfully warm, but thought
that since the heater had turned on I must have been mistaken. I little
later, I noticed the heater still on. On a whim, I pulled out my candy
thermometer and found the aquarium water was between 85 and 90 degrees.
I unplugged the evidently malfunctioning heater, which was set to the
lowest heat level.
<This happens from time to time. One approach that works well is to use
two slightly too small heaters instead of one. For example, if your tank
needs a 100 W heater, use two 50 W heaters instead. This way, if one
sticks in the on position it cannot "boil" the fish because it is too
weak to heat the tank dangerously high. The other heater will switch off
normally. All this said, modern heaters from reputable manufacturers
tend to be very reliable.>
I know that the water I added was slightly cooler than the existing
aquarium water, so there is no telling how long this thing has not been
working right and I am wondering if the hotter water was the reason I
lost my swordtail.
<Possible, but unlikely. Generally extremes of temperature cause obvious
problems first: if too hot, the fish gasp at the surface, if too cold,
they become lethargic and off their food.>
I had noticed the heater seemed to be on a lot, but I was not really
sure how warm they needed the water to be and as the heater was
relatively new and was supposed to automatically regulate the temp, I
assumed all was well.
The fish were all acting fine, and were not gasping at the top or acting
distressed- the Corys happily scavenging and the Danios hanging out near
the top.
<Very good.>
About an hour later, I went to check again, and one of the Corys was
dead, just laying upside down on the bottom.
<Curious. At this stage, I'd be whipping out the nitrite test kit.>
Now I am wondering if I inadvertently caused the death by unplugging the
heater and causing a rapid temp drop, but I was afraid of how high the
temp would go. The candy thermometer says the temp is 85 now. I also
can't figure out if something went wrong at the water change, although I
used the same bucket and did everything as I always do.
<Water doesn't tend to rapidly cool down or warm up, and Corydoras in
particular have quite a high tolerance for extremes, at least in the
short term. They are air breathers, so able to tolerate warm water, and
the common species (peppered and bronze Corydoras) are subtropical fish
that can tolerate cold water for weeks at a time in the wild.>
Right now the heater is still off. The Danios seem agitated, although I
may just be nervous.
<Again, Danios are subtropical fish, and generally tolerant of cold
water for short periods. So lack of heat, unless the room is very cold,
shouldn't be an issue.>
I am out of water test kits- I tested frequently when I added the Cory
cats about 3 or 4 months ago to make sure of no spike, but haven't
tested recently As I inherited the tank after it had been established
for years, and have only added a couple fish, I have never had a reading
over 0 on ammonia or Nitrite, and Nitrates have always been under 10.
<That was then, this is now... do the water tests. Nitrite and pH are
essential here, as both are good indicators of background changes.>
I should mention I consider myself a complete newbie. Although I've had
this tank about a year I have not really added many fish, basically just
doing water changes and letting it be. I added the hang on filter, the
airstone, and the heater, it had none of the above. There was an
existing undergravel filter but I realized that it did not seem to be
properly set up- it was just a loose tube from an air pump pushed down
into the tall tube without being connected to anything, and I wasn't
sure how to fix it. (please excuse my technical terms.)
<Hmm... normally their is a transparent vertical tube a few cm in
diameter in one corner of the aquarium. This is connected to a filter
plate underneath the gravel. An airstone is placed at the bottom of the
vertical tube. As the bubbles rise, they pull water up the vertical
tube, and this up-flow of water draws water into the undergravel filter.
While considered "old fashioned" nowadays, a properly maintained
undergravel filter works very well. It is possible by disconnecting the
undergravel filter you've reduced filtration capacity below that needed
for your aquarium. Without an undergravel filter, you need an external
or internal filter that generates turnover of not less than 4 times the
volume of the tank. So if, for example, your aquarium holds 100 litres,
the filter should be rated at 400 litres per hour.>
I wanted to take the time to do more research before really getting into
adding fish, etc, as I didn't want to rush in and kill anything, and
have been too busy to do much with it. I have had the David Boruchowitz
Freshwater Aquariums book for a long time, well before I had this tank,
and had wanted a tank a long time but never took the plunge. The book is
great, and has lots of advice for getting started the right way, but not
really anything about what to do if you run into a problem.
<Ah, well, maybe WWM can help out here!>
Anyway, if you can, please let me know:
1. If the growth seems to be some sort of parasite I should worry about,
or something individual to the fish.
<Not a parasite.>
2. Is the death of my swordtails related to this recent death?
<Quite possibly; if conditions are "bad", fish may all die from
different diseases but were ultimately connected to the same cause.>
3. Was the high water temp likely the cause of all the problems?
<Possible, but unlikely. Unless the water went about 30 C, there
shouldn't be any immediate risk to your fish. That said, the ideal
temperature for your collection of fish is around 24 C, given you have a
mix of tropical and subtropical species.>
4. Do I need a new heater with the fish that I have?
<Well, you need a heater, yes.>
I live in the Houston, Texas area. It stays pretty hot, so the AC runs
almost year round. My house is pretty much a constant 77. I had been
keeping the top off the aquarium as a lot of sun comes in the windows
and I didn't want it to get too hot. I was reading the online article
about the sub-tropical aquarium, with no heater- would this be a good
choice for me?
<Depends on the fish. Even in subtropical climate zones, having a heater
set to its minimum setting is a good idea. During the summer here in
England, I turn the heaters down to 18 C. This way, the fish get the
nice, natural variation in temperature they prefer, but I get the peace
of mind of knowing if there's an unseasonably cold night, the fish will
be fine.>
Of course, I'm adding nothing until I've figured out what the problem is
now. I just have 2 Cory cats and 2 zebra Danios left, would they be OK
with that kind of setup?
<What kind of set-up? A subtropical one? You appear to have zebra
Danios
(Danio rerio) and three-line Corys (Corydoras trilineatus). Both of
these will tolerate fairly cool water quite well, though only Danio
rerio is truly a subtropical fish. I'd recommend adding a heater but
setting it to slightly below normal, around 24 C. Most of the time the
heater will stay off, given where you live, but it'll come on during the
colder times of the year.>
I basically want something with fairly hardy fish, as my kids get pretty
attached to them. I'd like to add some more Cory cats- maybe a total
number of 6, and another 2 zebra Danios. Then I am assuming I can add
one more small school - what would be a good choice- I was looking at
perhaps 3 or 4 white clouds, although my young daughter would like
serpae tetras.
<Research your fish carefully. Corydoras and Danios work best when kept
in large groups of their own species. In the case of Corys, they school
nicely and become much mess shy and nervous. In the case of Danios, you
don't get so much fighting between the males. Serpae tetras should be
avoided if possible because they are notorious fin-nippers, and
Corydoras seem to be prime targets for nippy fish. White Clouds, on the
other hand, are good subtropical fish and would do well at 24 C. They do
tend to get bullied by the slightly larger and more boisterous Danios
though, so approach this combination with caution.>
As it is one of those annoying tall aquariums, and the Danios hang out
at the top and Corys hang out at the bottom, perhaps you could recommend
something that would like the middle ranges.
<To be honest, my first call would be to swap the tank for another if
you can. Choosing fish for a tall tank is throwing good money after bad:
tall tanks hold fewer fish than long ones (because of surface area at
the top for gaseous exchange) and schooling fish especially don't enjoy
the limited swimming space. You can obviously re-use the filter, heater,
etc in a new aquarium. But if this isn't an option, then perhaps your
best bet would be paradise fish (Macropodus spp.). While the males are
aggressive (so only get one, or none at all) the females are harmless
enough. They are classic subtropical fish, and when mature have
beautiful colours: blue and red stripes.>
Thanks for your assistance, I've been reading quite a while and enjoy
it.
Sarah
<Hope this helps, Neale> |
|
.jpg) |
My ever-dwindling Danio
population (Danio Illnesses) 12/23/07
Hello out there in the wonderful world of Wet Web Media,
<Brian>
I am writing out of a combination of consternation and desperation. I am new to
fishkeeping (February 14 will be my one-year anniversary) and I have two tanks:
one is a twenty-nine gallon planted tank and the other is a ten gallon planted
tank. In this post, I am writing about the twenty-nine gallon tank.
First, a little background... My tank is about eight months old and I added fish
slowly (though I might add, without quarantining - that is what the second tank
is for, but I bought it mid-way through stocking the first one). My ammonia and
nitrite are both zero. My nitrate is greater than
20ppm but less than 40ppm
<Both too high...>
(hard to tell with the color based tests). I do a 25% (about 5 gallons which is
25% since there is only about 25 gallons of water in the tank accounting for the
displacement from the substrate, rocks, wood, and plants) water change once a
week. I do NOT use a C02 machine, but I do put in Excel (one capful) every other
day.
<I would hold off on this for now...>
The plants in the tank include: a ton of Blyxa japonica, a hearty Anubias, two
flourishing (melon?) swords, crypt spatulata, java moss, and Myrio which grows
like weeds. The non-fish fauna in the tank include: Amano shrimp (2 males, 1
female), 5 cherry red shrimp (and about 20 babies across three generations), and
green shrimp (not sure how many because they hide, but at least one no more than
four) and various snails. The fish in the tank include: one Bristlenose Pleco
(sans bristles - grumble!), two honey dwarf Gouramis (one definitely male, one
either female or passive male); one flame dwarf Gourami, one Oto negro, one
Siamese algae eater (too big for its britches - not sure what to do with this
voracious eater),
<Keep your eye on... move if too aggressive>
one pregnant female platy (who has never once -visibly- given birth but is a fat
blimp), one chocolate Gourami (named chip, short for "chocolate chip"), and two
male rainbowfish (dwarf praecox), one zebra Danio and one leopard Danio.
So here's the problem. My tank population has recently dwindled. In the last two
weeks, I have lost two zebra Danios. About a month before that I also lost a
zebra Danio (when I started my tank I had four). About four months ago, my
fattest (alpha?) female Danio seemed to get sick - her spine started to curve
and she was "hiccupping", having these strange convulsions that looked like she
had a neurological disorder. Over the weeks, she got progressively worse until
she was swimming funny (she almost seemed like she was no longer buoyant - she
kept sinking and was swimming in this weird diagonal pattern). I tried to look
it up online (even on this site) and from what I could glean - the fish was
constipated. The cure seemed to be quarantine and no food for 2 days. After six
hours in the quarantine tank she seemed improved and after three days, I
returned her to the main tank.
She was fine for about six weeks and then she died.
Four weeks later, one of my Danios had a pinkish sore on its side. I am not sure
but I think it was "missing a scale" (not even sure if this possible, but it is
my best estimation). About two weeks later, I came home and a different zebra
Danio was dead (at the bottom of the tank) and the one with the sore, well it
was ... well, I am not sure how to describe it. It looked as thought it was
being eaten alive. One side of its body it was fine and silvery and the other
side was raw - pink/red as though someone had been munching on it. Oddly enough,
the fish was swimming around just fine, but it looked nasty. I put it in one my
larger fish nets (I know not the best idea, but it was a contingency plan) and
tried to isolate it from the other fish after I found my dwarf flame Gourami
trying to nip at it. Sadly, the Danio didn't make it.
Two days ago, I came home and my leopard Danio was swimming at an angle and
well... I also don't know how to describe this but it looked like had exploded.
Pardon the description - from the front and sides it looked fine but most of the
bottom 1/6 of the fish was ... well gone and looked pink and fleshy. If it were
possible for a fish to "explode" from eating too much, this is what I would
hazard it would look like. The good news is that after two days, the fish is
still alive (not visibly being harassed by other fish ... ) and seems to be
healing. The fleshy part has actually gone from a reddish pink to a paler pink.
It looks less like it is "throbbing".
Now that you have heard my story, here are my questions:
1. Does this sounds at all like "whirling disease"? I just started reading about
this (by the way, your link to www.fishdiseases.net on the whirling disease FAQ
is broken)
<Does read as some sort of internal bacterial complaint... particular to
Cyprinids...>
2. If not, what does it sound like? I have not had any luck finding anything
that fits these symptoms (if they are all related).
3. What do I do? Are my other animals in danger?
<I would skip using Danios and their relatives in this system... Really. Not
worth trying to treat, remedy here. The list of other livestock... that is more
sensitive to general areas of poisoning let's say, is telling>
I am not sure if you can tell from my post, but I have taken being a fishkeeper
really seriously.
<Yes... you 'read' as a very earnest individual of intelligence, tenacity>
I have been reading a ton (subscribe to two fishkeeping magazines, read this
site, joined my local aquatic plant society). Every time a fish or other animal
dies (3 Otos, 1 bamboo shrimp, 1 white dwarf Gourami, 1 bumble bee goby [which
would have done better in a brackish environment, I found out after] and 2
female Amanos), I spend hours trying to figure out why they die. My water is
clean, my nitrogen cycle is fine, I feed regularly, and my plants are thriving.
Any help would be useful.
<As stated... many Danios perish "consequent" to the conditions in which they
were reared in the Far East...>
4. I read somewhere that if a fish has whirling disease, the fish should not be
flushed. ACK! I didn't realize that - is that true for all dead fish? I am a
city boy and I don't really have a "plant" to bury the fish in. Can you please
give me some suggestion for appropriate means of disposing dead fish?
<Best to freeze all in a plastic bag... toss out with solid trash service>
Sorry for the long post. I look forward to your reply.
Brian in San Francisco
<Bob Fenner in Key West>
Question re: TB, and
Fin damage - 4/3/08
Good day,
First off I want to thank you all for this extremely valuable resource
for us fishkeepers and your time and knowledge- You have saved a many of
fish I assure you.
Couple questions: In my 100 gallon main tank I have 4 Bala sharks that
are still fairly young. The tank is cycled with Am-0 ,nitrite-0,
nitrate-10- There are lots of Amazon sword plants and a few other plants
I am not sure of. All except one of the Bala's have either frayed or
split fins but are otherwise very healthy and growing fast. Should I be
concerned or should I just keep a watchful eye on them? The one with
fins intact seems to have a belly unlike the others so I don't know if
they are squabbling over "her " or what. Some of my other inhabitants
can be fin nippers so I realize that this is not the only possibility.
My next question involves Goldfish (a.k.a zebra Danios) I went to my
dads last night (not the best fishkeeper) and I saw that his Goldfish
was sort of floating vertically, listlessly. Not only that but he has a
definite "bump" or hunched back (see attached pic, hopefully you can see
it) I am not sure of his water parameters but I snatched him, brought
him to my house and put him in my QT tank so my dad wouldn't flush him.
After researching I have concluded that it could be either be TB or just
old age (even though I don't think he's more than a year old but one
"expert" stated that Danio's can get a hunch back just as they age (I
don't know how reliable they are) Well, immediately after getting into
my QT tank he has perked up and is swimming around and everything...He
"acts" like he is eating but I honestly think he is just spitting it
back out- its hard to say for sure. Do you think it is indeed TB and if
so, exactly how do I disinfect my tank after
he "succumbs" and what do you recommend as an ideal method for
Euthanization (I realize everyone has their own opinions but I am
looking for the easiest for both me and the fishy) I am nervous about
using bleach to disinfect the tank because when I was a young'n I did
and I guess I didn't rinse well enough because it killed all of my fish
immediately :(-
Lastly, (I know, sorry this is a lot) About two weeks ago I had a big
oops. In my QT tank (at the time had 5 Neons and one female Pregnant
guppy) I was stupid and decided to buy the cheapest heater there was.
Well, little did I know there was absolutely NO safety feature on this
thing whatsoever. I plugged it in and fell asleep woke up an hour later
and the thermometer read 115 F !!!... Amazingly only 2 of the Neons and
possibly the fry in "utero" didn't make it. In my frenzy I decided to
forgo the "gradual" temp change rule and kept putting ice directly into
the tank until it was WNL. Well, the second the ice started melting the
lifeless fish that were laying on the bottom perked up and swam to the
top to get more so I couldn't deny them. ANYWAYS- My question here is
this: I know that this stress could very well open the doors to many of
illnesses and now 2 of the surviving Neons have white areas on their
body's that are opaque and
completely block the "neon" and all color. Is this "neon tetra" disease
or something else and how do I handle it? FYI I will never buy such
useless and dangerous equipment again- I assure you.
One more thing I promise....A month or so ago, I emailed in with
problems regarding Dwarf Gourami's- I was told that it was probably DGD
and it would be best to put them down. I did lose 2 but on the third I
decided to try something. He had all the symptoms of DGD BUT the
lesions. Well, I treated with Parasite Clear for 4 days (it took two
treatments to see results, I thought he was dead many times) a few weeks
later he is better than he has ever been!! Has tons of energy and eats
like a pig. I just thought that this might be helpful and others might
be able to try this if they suspect DGD but want to try and save their
pets.
Again, thank you all for all that you do and please know that I (as I am
sure others) are extremely grateful for every second you devote to
helping.
Very Respectfully,
Grace
question re: TB, and Fin damage -
4/3/08
Good day,
First off I want to thank you all for this extremely valuable resource
for us fishkeepers and your time and knowledge- You have saved a many of
fish I assure you.
Couple questions: In my 100 gallon main tank I have 4 Bala sharks that
are still fairly young. The tank is cycled with Am-0 ,nitrite-0,
nitrate-10- There are lots of Amazon sword plants and a few other plants
I am not sure of. All except one of the Bala's have either frayed or
split fins but are otherwise very healthy and growing fast. Should I be
concerned or should I just keep a watchful eye on them?
<Yes, be worried. Either Finrot (caused by poor water quality,
regardless of what your test kits say) or physical damage
(fighting/fin-nipping). Treat with anti-Finrot medication, e.g.. Maracyn
or eSHa 2000, but not Melafix or "tonic salt".>
The one with fins intact seems to have a belly unlike the others so I
don't know if they are squabbling over "her " or what. Some of my other
inhabitants can be fin nippers so I realize that this is not the only
possibility.
<Remove the fin-nippers to another tank.>
My next question involves Goldfish (a.k.a zebra Danios) I went to my
dads last night (not the best fishkeeper) and I saw that his Goldfish
was sort of floating vertically, listlessly. Not only that but he has a
definite "bump" or hunched back (see attached pic, hopefully you can see
it) I am not sure of his water parameters but I snatched him, brought
him to my house and put him in my QT tank so my dad wouldn't flush him.
After researching I have concluded that it could be either be TB or just
old age (even though I don't think he's more than a year old but one
"expert" stated that Danio's can get a hunch back just as they age (I
don't know how reliable they are)
<One year isn't "old" for a Danio. They easily live for 3+ years when
properly cared for.>
Well, immediately after getting into my QT tank he has perked up and is
swimming around and everything...He "acts" like he is eating but I
honestly think he is just spitting it back out- its hard to say for
sure. Do you think it is indeed TB
<Unlikely; quite rare in freshwater fish. I'd simply feed him up and see
how he does. Nothing to lose. If he gets fatter and healthier, then
he'll be fine; if not, painlessly destroy.>
and if so, exactly how do I disinfect my tank after he "succumbs"
<Clean and air dry the hospital tank.>
and what do you recommend as an ideal method for Euthanization (I
realize everyone has their own opinions but I am looking for the easiest
for both me and the fishy) I am nervous about using bleach to disinfect
the tank because when I was a young'n I did and I guess I didn't rinse
well enough because it killed all of my fish immediately :(-
<See here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/euthanasiafaqs.htm
>
Lastly, (I know, sorry this is a lot) About two weeks ago I had a big
oops. In my QT tank (at the time had 5 Neons and one female Pregnant
guppy) I was stupid and decided to buy the cheapest heater there was.
Well, little did I know there was absolutely NO safety feature on this
thing whatsoever. I plugged it in and fell asleep woke up an hour later
and the thermometer read 115 F !!!... Amazingly only 2 of the Neons and
possibly the fry in "utero" didn't make it. In my frenzy I decided to
forgo the "gradual" temp change rule and kept putting ice directly into
the tank until it was WNL. Well, the second the ice started melting the
lifeless fish that were laying on the bottom perked up and swam to the
top to get more so I couldn't deny them. ANYWAYS- My question here is
this: I know that this stress could very well open the doors to many of
illnesses and now 2 of the surviving Neons have white areas on their
body's that are opaque and completely block the "neon" and all color. Is
this "neon tetra" disease or something else and how do I handle it? FYI
I will never buy such useless and dangerous equipment again- I assure
you.
<Observe for a while before deciding this is Neon Tetra Disease;
stressed Neons will indeed lose their colour. But Neons with NTD also
lose weight and become strangely shy, separating off from their school.
NTD is unfortunately not curable.>
One more thing I promise....A month or so ago, I emailed in with
problems regarding Dwarf Gourami's- I was told that it was probably DGD
and it would be best to put them down. I did lose 2 but on the third I
decided to try something. He had all the symptoms of DGD BUT the
lesions.
<In that case, not DGD!>
Well, I treated with Parasite Clear for 4 days (it took two treatments
to see results, I thought he was dead many times) a few weeks later he
is better than he has ever been!! Has tons of energy and eats like a
pig. I just thought that this might be helpful and others might be able
to try this if they suspect DGD but want to try and save their pets.
Again, thank you all for all that you do and please know that I (as I am
sure others) are extremely grateful for every second you devote to
helping.
<Very nice to hear this story. It's worth repeating the point that while
Dwarf Gourami Disease is a common reason Dwarf Gouramis get sick, not
all sick Dwarf Gouramis have Dwarf Gourami Disease. Sometimes they get
other things!>
Very Respectfully,
Grace
<Good luck, Neale.>
Re: question re: TB, and Fin
damage 4/4/08
Hi again,
You say that TB is unlikely in FW fish but after reading numerous pages on this
site I've gathered the complete opposite.
<I don't agree with them. Fish TB has historically been cited by aquarists for
all sorts of "mystery deaths", and recent work by scientists has certainly
proven that some Mycobacterium strains are common in aquaria. But in my
experience, almost all "mystery deaths" are better explained by other factors:
Hexamita, poor water quality, genetics, use of feeder fish, and so on. In any
event, because Mycobacterium is untreatable, you may as well try to concentrate
on things you can fix, in the hope that the fish will recover. If it doesn't, no
harm is done.>
Most other people state that if its an adult fish with a bent spine (and its
even a Danio ((Glofish but they are the same thing))- at any rate tonight he's
laying at the bottom of the tank barely breathing- Hopefully my husband gets
home soon because I cant bring myself to euthanize him. Does this mean that this
QT tank is now infected?
<What the Czech scientists who looked at Mycobacterium discovered was that the
bacteria are present in 75% of fish tanks.
http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/pfk/pages/item.php?news=1055
In other words, you probably have the bacteria that could cause Fish TB anyway,
but then so do I and so do most other fishkeepers. So why don't 75% of
fishkeepers have fish dying from Fish TB? That's the question! While you should
certainly clean the hospital tank as a precaution -- something you do with a
hospital tank anyway -- don't bother getting paranoid about the Mycobacterium
itself. By the way, the variety of Mycobacterium that can infect humans is the
one most common in marine aquaria, Mycobacterium marinum.>
After reading your email I put two other sick fish in my QT tank with him (I
found my black Sailfin molly with skin that looks like it is "decaying" he has
holes in his Sailfin and body and the rest of his skin looks like its going to
fall off) and the Neon (of which got even MORE white on his body after putting
him in there.
<Mollies are never that healthy kept in freshwater tanks. The vast majority of
Molly deaths come down to high nitrate and the wrong water chemistry, and I'd
bet all the money in my pockets that that's the issue here.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/mollies.htm
Neon Tetras are very prone to a disease called Pleistophora (or Neon Tetra
Disease) that is incurable.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwdistrbshtart.htm
If you're suddenly getting a bunch of fish looking sick, then I'd first turn to
my water test kits. Check the water quality. Neons and Mollies for example
require completely different water chemistry, and choosing what's right for
Mollies will stress/kill your Neons. So you have work to do there. I'd review
nitrate especially, as that's a killer for Mollies. Neons need soft/acid water,
and Mollies hard/basic water with salt added at a dose of about 6 grammes per
litre.>
Have I gave these fish the death sentence? If they didn't have it already? If
not how would you recommend me helping them?
<If the Neon has Pleistophora, it'd doomed so you may as well destroy it
painlessly. Mollies usually recover quickly when kept in brackish or marine
aquaria, so that's what's required there. As for the Danio, it doesn't look that
good to me.>
With my Balas in my 100 gallon how do you recommend I treat that? Like I said
they do have some spits/ and frays on some of their fins but otherwise act VERY
healthy and seemingly fine.
<Depending on where you are, you'd use different medications. In the UK, I've
found eSHa 2000 very safe and effective. Americans like to use Maracyn instead.>
I am hesitant to treat in this tank because its my main and so large yet I cant
put them in the small 10 gallon with all the other terminally ill fish-
<Treating the fish in the 100 gallon tank is fine. Used correctly, no modern
fish medication should cause undue stress on the fish.>
Ugh...Couldn't I just put in some salt and keep and eye on the fins?
<No. Salt doesn't really have any useful impact on Finrot. Salt can help with
Fungus, but only up to a point. Anyway, the salt would stress these freshwater
fish rather more than medication.>
And if they start to get any worse treat the whole tank with Maracyn like you
said?
<No.>
What a mess I have here. I really shouldn't have "saved" this hunchback Glofish
from my dad but at the time I didn't know I had two other "sick" fish.
<No good deed goes unpunished!>
The Molly started with a shimmy and I had him in the qt tank for a few days with
salt- put him back in the main tank and 3 days later looks horrible.
<Precisely. I know people sell Mollies as freshwater fish, but they really
aren't reliable as such. Sorry, but that's just the way it is.>
and was either laying on the bottom listless or hiding in my deco. in the past
24 hrs. I haven't slept in 2 days because I am trying to change all the water
and take care of all of these issues ( I can only do it at night when my baby is
sleeping) so if this is a little hard to follow I apologize. Any guidance would
be greatly appreciated.
<Gosh, I'm sorry you're having such a bad time! Obviously you have to put
children before animals. This being the case, painlessly destroying sick fish
would be completely understandable. Lesser of two evils.>
V/R Grace
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: question re: TB, and Fin
damage 4/4/08
Thank you for your prompt reply- I usually keep my mollies in the 100 gallon
which is my "semi-aggressive" some salt tank and my Neons in my 20 gallon
"community" tank - its my QT tank where they have to be combined. I've been
testing my water every few days since my Bala's first started showing the frayed
fins (I think it might have been from a new decoration we just put in there)
<Hmm... physical damage can cause symptoms similar fin-nipping. Spiky ornaments
can scratch fish that bomb around the tank when alarmed. Though that does raise
two points: firstly if your fish are getting scared, that's something that needs
to be fixed. Secondly, even if the fins are scratched rather than bitten, Finrot
is still a problem. I'd also mention that if physical damage is the issue here
rather than nipping, you'd expect to see scratches on the body and/or missing
scales, not just frayed fins.>
Am-0, Nitrite-0 and Nitrate 15(aprox)- So do I get all the money in your pocket?
(lol).
<I guess!>
I am in the US so I guess I need to go out and get a huge box of Maracyn
today....should I take my BioWheels out and put them in a bucket of aquarium
water so I don't destroy the biological filter?
<None of this is necessary. Maracyn is completely harmless to your filter when
used as instructed.>
I was hoping the neon with the white "insides" was a fungal infection from the
broken heater issue and not the NTD and I was going to try and treat him and the
Molly (and I suppose the Glofish too because today he is swimming around again!
<All sounds very perplexing. NTD typically has the Neon losing colour, becoming
shy, hiding away from the group, not eating, and then wasting away. It's highly
contagious to other Neons and perhaps other tetras, though rarely affects other
types of fish.>
He was acting SO "dead" last night) for fungal/bacteria issues.
<Well maybe there's hope!>
The molly's skin looks REALLY bad.
Mollies can sometimes be improved by giving them dips in "seawater" -- a litre
of aquarium water with 35 grammes of salt, ideally aquarium salt but rock or
kosher salt will do. Dip the fish for 2-20 minutes depending on how it reacts.
That should clean up the skin quite a bit. Repeat daily.>
I do have 4 other molly's in the 100 gallon and they seem perfectly fine as I am
in South Texas and the water here is naturally "hard" (high lime content)
actually my Ph naturally runs 8.2 -.4 out of the tap- I was told to not bother
treating it as long as its constant they will be fine? is this the case?
<"Liquid rock" water is certainly what Mollies prefer. Quite why Mollies are so
unpredictable in health when kept in freshwater is unclear. They are common
enough in freshwater in the wild. While 100% of the Mollies sold thrive in
brackish water aquaria, in my experience, only some Mollies will do well in
freshwater aquaria.>
And I have never tested for hardness or softness (not even sure what a test for
these would be) because in the things I have read they never stated it
necessary- should I?
<If you have rock hard water, then chances are you have hard, basic water
conditions. Ideal for livebearers, Goldfish and many cichlids, but not
necessarily ideal for fish from soft water environments, including Neons. To be
fair though, your water is probably similar to mine here in Southern England --
out of a chalk aquifer -- and most fish adapt just fine.>
Thank you again. I pray my issues get resolved soon.
<So do I! If you have a digital camera to hand, some photos of the Molly and the
Neon might help us diagnose things further. Good luck, Neale.>
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Zebra Danio acting strangely 5/6/08
Hello,
<Sarah>
I have an established hexagon tank, I believe it is 35 gallons. I had e-mailed
last Sept when some of my fish died suddenly after a heater malfunction.
Since that time, I have not added any other fish, we had 1 zebra Danio and 2
Cory cat. This weekend I picked up 5 very small zebra Danios at Petsmart (where
the other fish came from as well) and 2 more Cory cats. I have checked the water
daily, it still shows zero nitrites.
All the new fish seem to be active and happy. The coloration on the new Danios
brightened from a pale brown to bright stripes almost immediately. All the Cory
cats are happy. However, the one original Danio is acting strangely. It seems to
be swimming in a labored fashion, moving his tail constantly, as if it cannot
keep itself straight in the water. Its tail is lower, and its head is high. He
has had a bloated look for a very long time, so not sure if it could have some
sort of problem. Any suggestions? I had wanted to get more Danios so he would
have someone to school with, as he was just hiding in the plastic plants all the
time. Now he's out and swimming, but not looking good.
Also, he has a large bright red spot on one side behind the eye- is this normal
coloration for zebra Danios?
Thanks,
Sarah
<Mmm, is not... could be most anything at this juncture, description. Please do
send along a well-resolved image if you can. Bob Fenner>
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