Small Marine Aquariums Book 1: Invertebrates, Algae New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 2: Fishes New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 3: Systems New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner

LED lighting and Acropora/Reef Lighting 2/25/13
Hello gang.
<Hello Larry>
I bought a Kessil 90 watt fixture the other day to use over metal halides.
The tank is a 29 gallon and I have a few Acropora in there.  I don't know why the polyps are half way out.  Perhaps it's too much or too little light?
<Is likely the change of spectrum and/or an increase in intensity.  Corals should always be acclimated to different lighting technologies.  Please read here.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PhotoAcclimGasta.htm>
I've never had LEDs before.  The tank is relatively new, all of the water parameters are fine except for the nitrate is at 5.0 and the KH is around 5.0.
<I would try to get the nitrate down to about 1-2ppm.>
I've noticed the KH on another tank of mine was high in the beginning but came down through time.  I think the reason is that I bought Florida base rock, which is not the live rock that is typically sold for reef aquariums.
This base rock is dry, chalky and white.  Would a KH of 5.0 be harmful to Acropora?
<dKH is a measure of buffers present in seawater and buffers are mostly made up of carbonates which the corals need to build their skeleton.  Without the presence of carbonates, corals cannot grow or build their skeletons.
I would keep your dKH higher than this.  A minimum of 7dKH and a maximum of 12 should work very well.  It's best to monitor the dKH on a weekly basis, especially if there are many SPS/LPS corals present in the system.>
I also have some Zoanthids, Halimeda plant and a gorgonian.
Thank You
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
L. Splitter
Re LED lighting and Acropora/Reef Lighting 2/25/13
Thanks James. 
<You're welcome.>
I had meant to say that the alkalinity was around 5.0 not the KH.  Would this still be too high for a wild Acropora specimen?
<What kit are you using to measure alkalinity?  Are you measuring meq/l? 
If you are, and I believe you are, you then multiply the meq/l reading by 2.8 to give you dKH.  In your case it is 14dKH, a bit on the high side but not harmful to Acropora or other stony corals.  Do not dose any buffers in the system until the level drops to around 8 or 9 dKH.>
Thanks
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Re LED lighting and Acropora/Reef Lighting    2/27/13
Thanks James
<You're welcome.>
The test kit is made by Salifert and the units are in meq/l.
<I assumed that was the case.  Just multiply your results by 2.8 to get the dKH value.>
What products would you recommend for a 29 gallon reef tank?
<Mmm, why just a 29 gallon tank?>
There are quite a few to choose from.  In the past I've used the buffer and calcium additions from ESV (as well as iodide, magnesium and boron) and two little fishies.  I've used Kent products for trace elements and coral vite.  I also use RO/DI water and use a protein
skimmer.
<The products I like most are:
Brightwell Calcion-P for calcium
Seachem Reef Buffer
Seachem Reef Builder
Tropic Marin Bio-Strontium
Tropic Marin Reef Actif  (NO3/PO4 reducer and also provides food for the corals).  This product works better than
most any other NO3/PO4 reducer I have used in the past and need only be dosed weekly.  Does a great job clarifying the water as well.
For coral maintenance I am using the Red Sea Foundation products but when they are gone I will not use them anymore, too darn many things to dose on a daily basis and very expensive to buy all the components.  I've been hearing very good reports on a AquaVitro Fuel which is an all in one additive for corals (excluding food).  This is the product I am going to try. AquaVitro is a subsidiary company of Seachem. 
http://www.aquavitro.com/products/reef.html 
thanks again
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Re LED lighting and Acropora/Reef Lighting 2/28/13
Thanks again. 
<You're welcome.>
The reason I have a 29 gallon is that it fits in my office pretty nice.
<I did not mean for my statement to come across like that.  Was just that the products would work just as well in any size tank.>
 One other thing is that I had put some bleached coral in my tank that was left over from another tank.  In that tank there was copper, but this piece of coral had been left dry for about 4 years.  There wouldn't be any copper left on this piece of coral would there?
<May be some residual but likely not enough to cause any problems.  Bob may comment here if necessary.
James (Salty Dog)><<Not a worry; as James says, very little Cu here. RMF>>

Lighting for SPS 9/1/12
Dear WWM,
<Hello Bryce>
I recently sent in an email about a pending nano system I would like to set up for frags. It was suggested to me that I use a Ecoxotic PAR38 LED Aquarium Lamp to light the system. I was wondering if this would still apply for trying an Acropora frag, or perhaps a Birds Nest coral. I am also wondering if this type of lighting would be adequate  for anemones.
I wont mix SPS and anemones, but I would like to at least have an idea of whether or not this is a multipurpose light or not really.
<In my opinion, this LED lamp is more suited for highlighting areas in a tank.  It also has a very sharp narrow focus due to the 40 degree lenses used.  This would not be my choice for your needs.   Have you looked at the Orphek PR25?  This LED lamp has more LEDs and the spectrum is tuned for coral and anemone growth.  This LED lamp uses 60 degree honeycomb
reflectors and provides  12" x 12" coverage with the lamp suspended 12" above the water line.  Take a look here.
http://orphek.com/led/orphek-products/pr-25/
Orphek's contact email is sales-3@orphek.com>
Thanks.
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Bryce

Lighting Change, for SPS  – 12/03/12
Dear Crew,
<Bryce>
So, its getting to be that time of year again when I start to think about improving my reef tank drastically. I have arrived at the idea that I want to try some different types of plating corals, and branching too. Of course
I realize that this means SPS. I also know that there is no way my current four 65watt pc's will be enough to keep them. (two 6500k, and two 10k) I don't want to go to metal halide at this time, but instead would like to go with T5. I found a six 54 watt bulb fixture which I fancy. Firstly, would this be progresses or regress in the direction I wish to go?
<Nominal, a few tens of percent forward>
 Secondly, assuming it is progress which may be a jump in and of itself; what combination of bulbs would you recommend? I was thinking: 2 Coral Plus (
http://www.marinedepot.com/ATI_Coral_Plus_T5HO_Fluorescent_Bulb_T5_High_Output_
Fluorescent_Light_Bulbs_for_Aquariums-ATI-UZ1133-FILTBUT5HO-vi.html)
and 4 Midday Sun (
http://www.marinedepot.com/D_D_Giesemann_Powerchrome_Midday_T5_High_Output_Fluorescent_Lamp_T5_
High_Output_Fluorescent_Light_Bulbs_for_Aquariums-Giesema
nn_Aquarium_Lighting_Systems-GL2121-FILTBUT5HO-vi.html) 
<These would be fine>
I likely would want to try some plating Monti's, Birds Nest, Pocillopora, and of course Staghorns. Now, assuming that the purchase would be regress;
would it be better to save my money and buy a metal halide later?
<For your size system... Mmm, no; I'd save and jump to LEDs. For (much)
larger systems, an intermediate choice at this time might well be MHs>
 I apologize if this message was slightly unorganized, but I felt that it was
best to send you the links to the exact bulbs.
Bryce
<No worries. Bob Fenner>
Re: Lighting Change, /SPS  12/3/12
Bob,
<Big B>
If then, this wouldn't actually be what I consider measurable progress, and instead you recommend LEDs I have a few questions. Firstly, if I have a basic understanding of PAR then, PAR of 100 is natural sunlight correct?
<Mmm, a bit more involved than this...>
This is unrelated at this time but relates to the next question:
http://www.marinedepot.com/Ecoxotic_PAR38_LED_Aquarium_Lamp_LED_Light_Bulbs_for_Saltwater_Reef
_Aquariums-Ecoxotic-XX06850-FILTBULD-vi.html 
This is advertised to have a PAR of 38. Which is significantly lower than 100, am I looking at the wrong type of bulb or would this be sufficient?
<How to put this? One needs, wants to have the registration/measure of 100 PAR or more "at the site" of the coral/s themselves... so you need to start w/ more at the surface total>
The high light Acros would be within 8 inches of the surface. I am assuming that multiples would have to be purchased, but what number would be appropriate for a standard 55 gal LPS, SPS reef? What distancing is best for this type of lighting?
Bryce
<Have you seen James articles re LEDs on WWM? Am referring you to him here.
B>
Re: Lighting Change, /SPS /JamesG    12/4/12
<<Hello Bryce.  Bob asked me to give my input on your lighting query.  I will clear up your understanding of the PAR 38 lamp.  In this case, PAR 38 has nothing to do with actual PAR (Photosynthetic Available Radiation). 
Instead it means "Pressed Glass Aluminized Reflector" or "Parabolic Aluminized Reflector" depending on who you ask.  I prefer the later.  The 38 means eights of an inch just like T5 where the 5 means 5/8" of an inch. 
In the PAR 38 lamp it means the lamp measures 38 eights of an inch or 4 3/4" in diameter.  There are also various sizes and styles of "PAR" lamps.>>
Bob,
<Big B>
If then, this wouldn't actually be what I consider measurable progress, and instead you recommend LEDs I have a few questions. Firstly, if I have a basic understanding of PAR then, PAR of 100 is natural sunlight correct?
<Mmm, a bit more involved than this...>
<<PAR and CRI is not to be confused.  Natural sunlight has a Color Rendering Index of typically 100.>>
This is unrelated at this time but relates to the next question:
http://www.marinedepot.com/Ecoxotic_PAR38_LED_Aquarium_Lamp_LED_Light_Bulbs_
 for_Saltwater_Reef_Aquariums-Ecoxotic-XX06850-FILTBULD-vi.html
This is advertised to have a PAR of 38. Which is significantly lower than 100, am I looking at the wrong type of bulb or would this be sufficient?
<How to put this? One needs, wants to have the registration/measure of 100 PAR or more "at the site" of the coral/s themselves... so you need to start w/ more at the surface total>
The high light Acros would be within 8 inches of the surface. I am assuming that multiples would have to be purchased, but what number would be appropriate for a standard 55 gal LPS, SPS reef? What distancing is best for this type of lighting?
<<This will depend on the types of corals that will be kept.  If SPS, than I would recommend a minimum of three of the "PAR 38 LED Lamps".  For the cost of those you would be much better off with a LED Pendant which will put out much more PAR and have a spectral curve closer to the PUR range.  You may want to read a couple of articles I wrote a
while back to help you better understand PAR/PUR and spectral wavelengths. 
These links will take you to them.
http://orphek.com/2012/07/understanding-kelvin-lux-lumens-par-and-pur/
http://orphek.com/2012/07/understanding-spectral-wavelengths/
James (Salty Dog)>>
>Thank you James. B<

LED's and Acropora/Reef Lighting 1/14/13
Dear Crew (likely Bob, or James),
<Hello Bryce, it will be James today.>
As I already informed you I set up a 20 gal. reef for SPS. I lit it with a Kessil A150W LED Sky Blue (10k). I recently did a water change and discovered that 5 gal. is a ton, I think it would be better to do 2.5 gal a week.
<I agree.>
I had the live rock stacked in a way that would bring corals within 6.5 inches of the surface, This wouldn't leave much room for growth, and so I was curious how far down in the water column SPS/clams could be placed?
The sand bed to surface is 14 inches, and the light is 6 inches from the surface. Most of the rock would put the corals closer to 10 or so inches below the surface if stacked flat along the bottom, but this doesn't allow for places to hide for inverts and pending goby. I also was curious as to the typical growth patterns of branching Acropora, and Acropora millepora.
I do not recall these as being overly aggressive as far as tentacles, or toxin release goes, but obviously they shouldn't be allowed to touch each other. I suppose the question reduces to: How much space should be left between these two colonies?
<Is really your call here.  I've had two colonies that grew into each other with no allelopathic issues.  Most hobbyists trim the corals before it gets to that change.>
The acro's should also be fed small planktonic foods, if I recall. Due to this, would Kent ZooPlex or Micro-Vert be useful to these species?
<May help some but I have never feed Acropora/Staghorn type corals.  Most of their food is obtained by photosynthesis although maintaining trace elements is helpful.
AquaVitro, a premium line from Seachem makes an excellent product called AquaVitro Fuel which is enriched with amino acids.  Reports I have heard state the product works very well.  Might want to check it out here.
http://aquavitro.com/>
Also, is my light strong enough for Derasa/Crocea/Squamosa Clam(s)? From what I have seen it should be sufficient for Derasa, and Squamosa but I am skeptical with the Crocea.
<Should be fine with the Crocea as long as the clam isn't resting on the bottom.  One source tells me that PAR readings on this fixture that were taken on the sand bed in a 29 biocube read a little over 100 with the lamp placed six inches above the water surface.
One of the downfalls with multichip designs is that there is a decrease in quantum efficiency as the chip size increases. The trade off is you get better color mixing with no hot spots.  Why Kessil calls their pendant an A150W is unknown to me.  I could find nothing on their site that mentions that it is equivalent to a 150W HQI lamp in terms of PAR.  I'm not degrading the pendant in any way, it is a decent fixture for the money but it does have its limitations.>
I suppose that this is quite a bit of information for one email, but I do not with to embark on this road uninformed. 
<No, the more pertinent info you furnish usually results in a more detailed answer.  James (Salty Dog)>
Bryce

Anemone Lighting 11/4/11
<Hello Ken>
I have a Biocube 29 with stock lighting and had a question about the light required for a Long Tentacle or Sebae Anemone.
<Your tank is a bit small for keeping this anemone alive long term.>
I don't want to take off the hood and have a metal halide lamp because of heat and evaporation issues. I was looking into LEDs and found the Panorama Pro LEDs. I was wondering if these would be sufficient for an anemone in my tank and if so, how many I would need.
<You would need at least six of these and the anemone would have to be placed in the upper third of the tank. See Ecoxotic's Coral Placement Guide here.
http://www.ecoxotic.com/community/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/CoralPlanningMap.pdf . This anemone would require the same light intensity as a Crocea or Maxima Clam.>
Each one has 12 bulbs for a total of 19w. This seems low but I have read that they have very high PAR values. If these would work would you suggest adding one (or more) to my existing 72w of pc light or replacing my stock lights completely with the LEDs.
<I would rather see you go with a Bubble Tip Anemone which can survive on less light and is much more hardy than the Long Tentacle Anemone. Adding two of the Panorama Pro LEDs to your existing lighting, preferably the 12K or the combo 12K/455nm.>
How many of these fixtures would I need and would I also need to add reflectors, stunner strips, etc.
<The reflectors/optics are built in to the LED fixture. Stunner strips won't do much for photosynthesis, generally just used for color pop.>
Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
<May want to read here.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemone
s.htm>
Thanks!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>

Lighting, T 5 lamp sel., LEDs... 1/19/11
Hi Crew,
<Hello Sam.>
I have an Aquapod 24 gallon with a glass top and 96W of T5's. The bulbs are 2 daylight and 2 actinic and I have LPS only, Acanthastrea, candycanes, hammers, torches and a very large Trachyphyllia. The next time I change bulbs should I leave it as is or go for all daylight.
<Most will not like the look of all daylight, not blue enough.>
My corals seem ok but for the most part they do not grow new heads. I feed them at least once a week-finely chopped silversides. I don't notice the blue that much except when I have the daylights turned off which is the last 2 hours of my lighting time.
<Turn off just the actinics to get an idea of what all daylight would look like.>
And it does look very different at that time, but everything starts getting smaller. Can I get the blue effect with LED's.
<Sure, that is another way to go. All daylight with the T5s and blue LED's. You could just order two new daylights and then play with them along with what you already have to see what look you like. One actinic and 3 daylights will increase your lighting a good bit while still giving you the actinic effect. Do realize the placement of the actinic can make a big difference too. You will usually notice the actinic much more when placed towards the front of the tank where you view it than you would towards the back.>
Thanks,
Sam
<Welcome, Scott V.>