FAQs about Lionfish Health/Disease/Injuries 8 Related Articles: Lionfish & Their Relatives, Keeping Lionfishes and their Scorpaeniform Kin Part 1, Part 2, by Anthony Calfo and Robert Fenner, Dwarf Lionfishes, Related FAQs: Lionfish Disease 1, Lion Disease 2, Lion Disease 3, Lion Disease 4, Lion Disease 5, Lion Disease 6, Lion Disease 7, Lion Disease 9, Lion Disease 10, Dwarf Lion Disease, & Lionfishes & their Relatives, Lions 2, Lions 3, Lions 4, Dwarf Lionfishes, Lionfish Behavior, Lionfish Selection, Lionfish Compatibility, Lionfish Feeding,

? re lionfish-spot on mouth 9/23/08 Hello, My husband purchased a lionfish last week -we observed lionfish eat well before we purchased it. Since we have brought lionfish home-he has not ate anything-our tank is 100 gallon and we have a Tang, trigger fish, <Likely incompatible with> damsels, clownfish, anemone <Might have gotten "stung" here> -we have purchased these in the last year- one at a time. Lionfish seems to be scared and we thought maybe it would need to adjust to the new atmosphere-it has been a week and he's still not eating. <This fish is apparently damaged...> Also, we noticed a white spot on his mouth which wasn't there when we purchased him. I have attached a picture. I have researched and can't find anything pertaining to white spot on mouth. Wondering if trigger fish could have injured him?? <Good guess> We are in the process of moving lionfish to a smaller tank to see if he will eat better? <Maybe...> What do you think? Thanks in advance, Leah <You need another tank. Bob Fenner>

Urgent help required. My lion is dying.   8/29/08
Sir,
<Hello>
I am in a deep trouble. I have a small aquarium and I keep a small lion and 1 carpet anemone.
<Not compatible, especially in a small tank.>
This is a new fish. It was apparently healthy but within 2 days my lion is having some fungus type of thing on his left side while the right side is clear. Can you tell me what the disease is and how to treat it.
<I do not believe this is a disease, I think it got stung by the anemone.>
Please see the picture for correct understanding of the problem. Please do something he is not eating and staying in one place and breathing.
<Looks like an anemone sting to be, good water quality and the removal of one or the other from the tank.>
I have posted more pictures here please see it and then respond and help me.
The anemone stung it once.
<More than once I would guess.>
I have seen it , the lion went near the anemone then suddenly shot away.
<And this is the result.>
http://petsconcern.blogspot.com/2008/08/please-help-sos.html
Regards
Babu Banik.
<Chris>

Re: Urgent help required. My lion is dying. 9/2/08
Dear Chris,
Thanks a ton.
<Welcome>
I would keep the water and as I have removed the anemone. I will wait few days and then keep compatible fishes. Thanks for your help.
Warm regards,
Babu Banik.
<Good Luck>
<Chris>

sick lionfish... Blinded by the light, poor env., no reading    8/20/08
Just under a year ago my boyfriend got a Red Volitans Lionfish. About two weeks ago he was feeding them, the piece the lionfish was a little to
<too>
big. At first it look like the top of his jaw was dislocated revealing bone underneath. His jaw looks like it is back to normal now but he is refusing to eat. The food is put in front of him but he shows almost no interest. A few days ago we noticed him swimming in circles constantly with his fins completely spread out. I noticed when he tries to swim he bumps into things (rock and the glass) with his nose.
<Mmm... symptomatic of light-caused blindness...>
Occasionally he swims upside down also. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated we desperately want to save this fish. He is in a 55 gallon tank.
<Way too small>
Temperature is at 69.6.
<Really too low>
My boyfriend says he checked all the other levels and they are fine. The lionfish is in a tank with a Snowflake Eel and Basslet and the other two fish are acting normal.
<... This fish needs a better world... and you need to read, follow directions before writing us: http://wetwebmedia.com/liondisfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Lion in QT, Crypt conundrum    8/14//08
Crew,
I've had a large lion in a 55-gallon QT for 6 weeks now. He went in appearing completely "clean" but developed white spots on the fins during the third week (hooray for QT!).
<I'll say!>
I performed a pH and temperature-adjusted freshwater dip (he did NOT enjoy that) and the spots cleared up within a day or two and have not reappeared...yet. I've been performing roughly 30% water changes about once a week,
<Mmm... should do daily>
paying particular attention to vacuuming every inch of the bare bottom of the tank. Although, at this point, I'm kind of at a loss for how to proceed. I've read every QT\crypt FAQ on WWM and can't seem to glean a solid direction to take with this specimen. Copper treatment is a potential avenue but I get dramatically conflicting recommendations on it's use with this species all over WWM, not to mention hyposalinity. Answers to the following should help me along:
1. What is the definitive answer on copper treatment of this pseudo-scaleless fish? Can lionfish handle copper treatment at the necessary dosage to eradicate crypt from the QT tank?
<Lions/Scorpaeniforms don't "like" copper exposure... I'd rate them a 3... or a 7 on a scale of ten, depending on which end is which... in terms of tolerance. In wholesale practice, they're treated the "same as other general fishes"...>
2. Is it possible to produce a crypt-free specimen from a QT tank that has hosted the parasite but has not had any chemical treatments?
<Mmm, possible, yes... probable... not w/o treatment>
Another way to phrase the question is...Since the fish has already presented with crypt in QT, can the lion be considered "clean" if it lasts six weeks without visible reinfestation and nothing but water changes, good vacuuming, and a periodic freshwater dip have been employed?
<Mmm, no... too likely there are embedded trophonts, missed tomonts...>
I have a 150-gallon display that has gone fallow for nine months and I really don't want to reintroduce crypt by making the wrong decisions with this lion in QT. Please assist and, as always, thank you for your valued advice.
Fred Warren
<At the very least, I'd do another FW bath, with aeration, formalin moving this animal enroute to the main tank. Otherwise I might go a "quinine" treatment route/regimen here over copper... Bob Fenner>

Lionfish gone berserk!   8/1/08
Hi Crew,
I suspect its too late to save my poor fish, but I'd like your advice. Tonight I noticed my Volitans Lionfish swimming violently in circles, flying out of the water (there's a top on the tank so he didn't get far) until he finally ran out of steam, jammed himself in the rocks and lay upside down.
<Yeeikes!>
At first I thought he'd declared war on the coral beauty, but he lay there for a while, righted himself and then a few minutes later, started the process all over again, and again, and again. There is some surface abrasions on his left side (from scraping across the rocks I think) but they are very shallow-- no meat is showing. There's no sign of ick or other diseases, no discoloration. His fins are full and normal, eyes clear. Other than breathing a bit fast and his berserk behavior, nothing at all appears wrong except that he's obviously getting weaker and has started to struggle near the surface. He did refuse food two days ago when I went to feed him, which I thought odd because he's normally a veracious eater. All other fish in the tank are understandably hiding (I would too if something with venomous fins was careening around my home like a cat with it's tail on fire), but otherwise they appear healthy and normal.
Tank specs: FOWLR
ph: 7.8,
<A bit low>
Ammonia, Nitrites, Nitrates: 0 Salt 1.023. Temp: 80-82
90 gallon overflow with a 40 gallon sump. Turboflotor skimmer, and
powerheads to facilitate vigorous water circulation. About 150 #
life rock and another 150 of coral sand.
Co-inhabitants include:
1 Blue Tang
1 coral beauty
1 snowflake moray
1 ocellaris clown (in the sump, so the lionfish won't eat him!)
1 green brittle star (yes, the dreaded "green death", but I give him a chunk of food weekly and he minds his manners)
<A 'chunk' of what?>
2 chocolate chip stars
2 pencil urchins
assorted crabs and snails.
The tank has been running for almost a year as is (upgraded from an established 55 gallon tank that was about 4 years old). Other than a troublesome maroon clown I isolated briefly in the sump about three months ago, I've made no additions to the tank. The listed fish and critters, including the Lionfish, have been together for at least 3 years. The last water change was about two weeks ago. I haven't changed any of the set up except for regular maintenance (water changes, cleaning the glass, etc) in many months. His diet consists of: Formula 1, Formula 2, shrimp, squid, mussels, scallops and seaweed he steals from the tang. All are commercial preparations for fish or raw seafood intended for human consumption. He and the tang occasionally face off for dictatorship of the tank but its never progressed to violence and the surface abrasions on his side do not appear deep enough for the tang to have inflicted them (she got me once with her switch-blade, so I know. Ouch.).
<Yes... very!>
Is it possible that he swallowed a hermit crab shell or the pea-size gravel and it has become impacted?
<Yes>
He's never been overly finicky about what he scarfs down, although his stomach appears normal, not bloated or concave.
Also, the temperature in the tank fluctuates from 80 at night to 82 during the day when the lights are on and has been doing so all summer. Might this cause problems?
<Mmm, no, not likely... and the rest of your livestock you report as fine...>
I know it can/does with corals, but I always figured the chocolate chip stars would curl up their toes long before any of the fish were effected.
I hate loosing a fish to disease, misfortune or my own stupidity, but worse I find are the mysterious deaths. Any suggests on how I might save this fish, or at least avoid a repeat. Thanks so much for your help. I consult your website all the time and would be entirely lost without it.
Thanks,
BC.
<There is indeed something mysterious at play here... like you say, perhaps something lodged in this fish's GI tract... Perhaps a form of "madness"... the tank is perhaps too crowded psycho- and physio-logically... I would try increasing aeration, and try to be patient... If you had another system that's empty, I might move this Lion there... for a few reasons... including reducing it damaging itself, and avoiding pollution should it die suddenly. Bob Fenner>

Attention Bob Fenner: Re: Lionfish gone berserk!  8/03/08
Hi Bob,
Thank you for the email. For some reason it didn't get routed to my email account until Sunday....
<Dang computers!>
In any case, by this morning the lion fish had broken and shredded most of his fins, and the currents in the tank were blowing him around. He lay upside down, hardly breathing, except when he noticed me, he'd sort of struggle pathetically in my direction. I just couldn't stand to see him suffer like that anymore. After much hand wringing I pulled him out this afternoon (in a large Tupper ware container) and put him in the freezer for a "humane" death. He didn't even fight for a second when I captured him (I've captured him with this method before and lord did he throw a tantrum). I suspect he would have been dead by tonight, and as you said, I didn't want him to die while I was out and pollute the tank, nor to suffer for so long. That and no other fish in the tank would feed while he was there.
<I would have done the same>
I did consider isolating him in a quarantine tank (an unused trash can) but I was understandably leery of trying to catch him when he was going nuts. Later, when he was so weak, I feared placing him in a totally black container (because obviously I would have had to put the lid on) would have stressed him out a good deal more than he already was...?
<Likely too far gone>
There never was any sign of infection. And he always spun around on his left side, never his right, so I suspect it was something he swallowed. Thanks for your suggestions. It's at least reassuring to know it probably wasn't anything stupid I did.
Thanks,
BC.
<If it will grant you solace, I would grossly dissect this fish (after defrosting...) to see if indeed something was stuck in it digestive tract>
FYI: the brittle star gets a chunk of whatever I'm feeding everyone else: shrimp, mussel, squid, or formula 1 & 11.
<Ahh!>
As far as the Ph being at 7.8. I know its a bit low, but I've never been able to get it higher. I've tried baking soda as your site suggests but the crusty residue it left in the water aging tanks actually killed the circulation pump, and even then, it hardly effected the PH--and I put in a ton.
<And baking soda by itself (sodium bicarbonate) won't raise the pH past this point... requires a source of carbonate. Do see WWM re pH, alkalinity. Bob Fenner>

Treating Ick on a Volitans Lion  6/27/08
Hello Crew and thanks in advance for your help,
<Welcome in time>
I recently (yesterday) got back from a trip to Key West for my cousins wedding.
<Ah, the Conch Republic... what a place!>
(Poor me right! ; )) While I was gone I was lucky enough to have a friend watching my tanks for me who is a fellow hobbyist on a temporary financially imposed hiatus.
<I do like this desc.... am going to apply it in talking about myself>
Unfortunately my Volitans Lion came down with a nasty case of Ick which I have to admit is probably my fault (stress). Fatty (my lion) was the first of my fish to be transferred to my "new" 75 gallon display. The tank was cycled for 5 weeks with pre established live sand (3-4" deep) from my and my friend (the one watching my tanks) old tanks that were still running that the time. After the tests all came out with zero readings I introduced 20 lbs of "pre-cured" live rock (bought from 2 different trusted LFS) along with 5 lbs of LR from my already established 25 gal., and left tank to cycle/cure for another three weeks (tested again). Equipment is one Fluval 4 plus (seeded filter media), 2 Koralia 1 power heads, and a 200W Jager heater. At this point I added roughly 20 small mixed snails (Cerith, turbo, Nassarius) and 4 or 5 blue legged hermits
<Your Lion may swallow any/all of these in time...>
along with Fatty (about two weeks before vacation to Key West). During the transfer Fatty scraped him self on some LR while trying to flee the specimen container, but I dosed some vitamin C and he looked fine in a few days. Sorry if I'm being long winded here, but here the question/advice needed part. I have a five gallon bucket, 10 gallon tank, and another 25 gallon tank to use for the FW dip, chemical med dip/HT, and QT while I let the 75 gallon go fallow for the next couple months. My plan of attack was to do a FW dip (adjusted PH, Alk, etc.)
in the bucket, then transfer fatty to the 10 gallon hospital tank for a medication period, and then finally to the 25 gallon QT for the remainder of the fallow period. For the medication I have some Quick Cure already from a FW Ick out break a few years ago, but I'm hesitant to use it given that lions are scale-less fish (at least I think they are)
<Do have fine scales, but you are right in that they are more than usually sensitive to copper and formalin>
and it's a harsher medication. From my research I see that Formalin 3 is highly suggested in the FAQ's, so do you think I should spend the extra $ and get it (or something else) instead of the Quick Cure I already have? Thank you again for your help, and continued dedication to this amazing hobby.
Thanks,
Darren Cothern
<I would first try just adding the Quick Cure (it has formalin as well) to the dip/bath solution... at appropriate strength (see WWM re)... enroute to transferring the Lion, vacuuming the 25 tank bottom daily (to remove tomites)... to see if this "does it"... Should be able to see w/in a week... Bob Fenner>

Phase-2…For My 200-Gallon FOWLR System (Lionfish Medication/Dipping) – 06/24/08
Sirs,
<<Ladies here too…but just “Crew” is fine. Now, how may I help?>>
My 200-gallon FOWLER system is entering into Phase 2 of its "life" after a catastrophic overnight power failure a year ago which shutdown pumps and dropped the temperature close to 10 degrees for about 8 hours.
<<Mmm, am sorry to hear…and can relate. I suffered a similar catastrophe (an anoxic event) on a larger 375g reef system just about a year ago, myself>>
All fish survived the initial incident but succumbed to an opportunistic ich infestation over the next week.
<<Stress kills in many ways>>
Lesson learned and now the tank is Internet connected and immediately reports its status in the event of any alarm conditions.
<<Excellent… Learning and taking action from our mistakes is the responsible thing to do>>
Happily, "Phase 2" kicks off with yesterday's purchase of the first specimen of size since the power failure...a gorgeous 10" tank-raised Volitans lion.
<<Magnificent creatures indeed>>
He is currently in a 55-gallon quarantine setup and doing quite well. My questions to you relate to your impression of the display tank's state and the necessity of certain sterilization tactics while the lion is in quarantine.
<<Okay>>
The large display system has been supporting only a 1.5" percula clown,
<<Won’t be “safe” with the 10 Lion…as I’m sure you are aware>>
a 6" marine beta (in the refugium), and an assortment of invertebrates, including a Chocolate Chip Star, two Serpent Stars, and several dozen hermit crabs for more than 9 months. With this extremely light load over such a long period of time, would you consider this tank to have essentially gone fallow?
<<Nope, fallow means “fishless”…period>>
Or does even the existence of the clown and the beta in the system present an inherent risk?
<<These fishes presence means the protozoa is still likely “present” in the system, yes>>
Neither has ever exhibited any signs of disease since I've had them.
<<The risk may well be low…and to be sure, few hobbyists’ systems are ever “totally” protozoan/parasite free…and even then, not for long>>
Let me know if you think it would make sense to section off a portion of the quarantine tank and add the clown and beta for the duration of the lion's quarantine period to create a truly fallow display tank.
<<Would need 6-8 weeks for such. Since these other fish have not displayed symptoms for nine months as you say, I would be inclined to leave as is and simply add the Lionfish at the end of its quarantine period>>
My second question relates to the need for potentially stressful preventative sterilization techniques in what appears to be a remarkably healthy specimen. This lion is truly a masterpiece…he hasn't a single tear of his delicate "wings," his anal fins are completely transparent and crystal clear, his eyes are smooth, glassy, and inquisitive, and his mood is relaxed and content.
<<Sounds like a very nice and well adjusted specimen>>
I would hate to put undo strain on this fellow in the way of dips or preventive medications if I really don't have to.
<<Me too…and I would not do so>>
If I keep him in quarantine for at least a month without dips or chemical treatments and I observe nothing notable about his appearance or behavior, can I safely consider him "sterile" enough not to reintroduce something like ich back into the system?
<<Is never a certainty but… yes>>
Or do you consider certain treatments absolutely necessary to ensure a reliably clean specimen? Please share your thoughts.
<<Prophylactic dips going in to/coming out of quarantine (or even “in place of” for certain specimens) can be very useful, even life-saving…but not with all situations or species. You are in the best position to decide…but I would not medicate or dip this particular Lionfish specimen unless certain it was needed (and then with extreme care/half dosages)…which does not seem to be the case here>>
Thank you for offering your time as fantastic resources for questions like these.
Fred Warren
<<We are happy to assist, Fred. Have you been through the plethora of information/queries we have on this popular family of fishes? Do start here, and read among the links at the top of the page (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/lions&rels.htm). Regards, Eric Russell>>

Lionfish Blind? 05/19/08
Hi Crew,
Fish have been doing great lately until now. My lionfish I think has gone blind. It started a few weeks ago when we noticed what looked like a clear lens peeling off the fishes one eye. Never clouded up but as time went on his eye developed a large clear bubble over it and now he hasn't eaten in 2 weeks and he just swims in circles counter clockwise and if he bumps into anything he freaks out. He still looks great and breathing is nice and easy. Not sure what I should do? I leave the lights out? I don't think he's going to make it but I would like to know what I'm dealing with? I've read your articles and other questions that people have asked but couldn't find any to match what I'm going through. Thanks In Advance.
<Lionfish blindness is quite common... can be resultant from too-bright lighting, physical trauma, nutritional deficiency.... What is/are the contributing factor/s here? Fixing these is the only route to a cure. Bob Fenner>

Re: Lionfish Blind? 05/20/08
He died this morning but I think it was from not eating. I had him in a 135 gallon long with 2 compacts 196 watts each. Would just actinic light be better in the future?
<Mmm, no... better to have "overhangs" of rockwork and such... darkened areas for these fishes choosing to get out of the light period>
Also from what I read I was feeding him to much I think. 2 silversides a day.
<Not a good strict diet... likely this is/was more a matter of avitaminoses than over-lighting>
Never no live food just silversides. Thanks for making me abit wiser.
<Glad to share, help save other fishes lives, vitality. Bob Fenner>

Issue with Lion... Feeding et al...   4/26/08
Hello WWM Crew,
Have an issue with a newly added a 6” Lion. I checked the site for more detail but looks like my issue is a bit more unique.
I added a Lion that was quarantined for over 2 weeks from my LFS into my 125 FOWLR. At the store he was eating krill, no issues at all.
<An incomplete diet>
It’s been 4 days since I’ve had him and no signs of an appetite. I have tried krill, krill soaked in Selcon, crab meat etc.
<Not unusual for large lions to go on feeding strikes on being moved. Four days, a week is not a worry>
Once I added him into my tank, he swam around for first day or so. Following day he showed signs of ich, so I gave him a freshwater bath.
<Even more stressful>
It worked great as the ‘specs’ are gone.
<If in the system... will be back>
He still does not care to eat, however.
Now, I noticed him this morning, and while his coloration is fine - his back fin is beginning to show signs of rot. Can this be bacteria or fungus?
<Stress>
I’m tempted to dip him in a furan bath
<Stop!>
for a couple hours but wanted to get your perspective. Water quality checks out fine: Salinity 1.018
<Too low...>
(for the ich breakout),
<Won't work>
Nitrite 0, Very low Ammonia, Nitrate 10, Temp 81
All my other fish, porc puffer, blue hippo, Humu trigger, green wolf eel, maroon clownfish have not missed a beat and eat like pigs. I’m confused at my current situation. It’s been 4 days without any eating and zero signs of an appetite.
Thanks for your time!
Neil
<Read (again): http://wetwebmedia.com/lionfdgfaqs.htm
and the linked files above, and elsewhere on WWM re Cryptocaryon, Hyposalinity... You have self-induced troubles... Bob Fenner>

Lionfish acting strange... poor environment, nutrition    3/17/08
Hi, great website!
I have had my lionfish for about six weeks now. I am new to lionfish. He is currently about 5 1/2 inches long and was about 4 inches when I bought him. He was quick to adjust to the frozen silver sides and that is what he eats. A small piece every other day.
<... needs more than this>
Anyhow, as he has grown he is changing. He has started to get white spots mostly on his (pelvic?) fins. It is not ich. The spots are the same shape and size as the black ones all over his body and are not topical but part of his body. Is this a normal part of growth or change?
<The former>
He has a couple small holes in his webbing on one side but after reading about that on the site that doesn't really concern me.
<Good>
What does concern me is he has been swimming strange. He is often in the vertical position and bumps his mouth into the live sand bottom. Now and again he does flips or somersault very slowly almost like he's not in control but then goes back to normal.
<Mmm... how bright is your lighting? I do hope/trust this fish has some dark area/s, caves to get out of the light... Otherwise, nutrient/vitamin deficiency can be at root here>
I'm also worried that he may be going blind.
<Yes... see above>
His eyes are not cloudy but do look different than before in the pupil. Instead of being straight black there appears to be a bluish/greenish swirl in both pupils. Kind of like the inside of a marble. When I went to feed him tonight he did not respond to the food. This behavior is out of the ordinary for me so I wanted to see what may be going on as I don't want to lose him.
My water temperature is 78F, salinity is 1.021
<I'd raise... see WWM re>
and all levels are good. He is the only fish in 55gal tank
<Needs more room than this...>
(I'm getting a bigger one before he gets too big) and it has a emperor 400 and a aqua c remora on it. I use Hagen Power-Glo lights on that tank.
Let me know what you think please.
Thanks a bunch.
Mike R.
<Read on! WWM re: Lion nutrition, systems... Bob Fenner>

Sick Lionfish  1/16/08
My lion is sick, I have had him over a year and he is by far my favorite fish ever. He has always had so much personality. Recently while I was going thru some treatments that make me very sick. I let my regular cleaning of my tank lapse. I checked the water parameters and found my Nitrates to be around 100 which I know is AWFUL.
<Yikes!>
I immediately started doing intense water changes until I got them back down to 10 ppm. My nitrites are 0ppm and ph is 8.4, ammonia is 0, salinity is 1.023 and temp is 76. He stopped eating so I thought it was from nitrate poisoning but I read that they will come back around given time and proper water parameters.
<Yes, this is so>
I tried enticing him with live feeders
<... a poor idea>
just because he wouldn't take anything else and he did go after it but when he did he hit his face really hard on the tank side when darting for the fish.
<Perhaps blind/ed as well...>
Ever since he will not even try to eat. It has been almost 6 weeks since he has ate anything. Although he does not look like he is starving yet. All my other fish which include a yellow tang and a blue devil damsel are doing great. My lionfish just sits on the bottom facing a corner and nothing else. I was trying to entice him to take some squid the other day and when I got it close to him he moved away from it a little, but enough to get himself facing down into the crushed coral and sand. He was trying to swim back to his corner I assume but he just acted like he couldn't steer, he was face first into the sand and was swimming straight down, to the point that sand was coming out his gills. I had to take my feeder stick and get him turned and he wiggled back into the corner straight ahead of him and has been there ever since. My question is, when he rammed into the glass chasing the feeder could he have damaged whatever it is that controls his steering and swimming abilities?
<Not likely... these fishes are tough>
Pleas help,
Wendy
<I would try placing some live ghost shrimp in this system... very palatable and lively... and do read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/lionfdgfaq2.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Lionfish assistance – 11/20/2007
Hi Bob
<Marco of the WWM crew here with you today.>
I have got your email address from a marine saltwater forum who were discussing various problems they were encountering with their lionfish. User Chromis suggested to another user that he contacted you as you had assisted him in the past and I was wondering if you could also help me?
<Will try.>
I have a juvenile voltaris <volitans> lionfish (currently about 5in in size) that lives on its own in a marine tank.
<Size?>
He has for some time ate frozen fish - silversides, lance fish, dillies, krill - though it is always an effort to get him to eat them.
Recently though he has not eaten anything - it must now be approaching two weeks. A few days ago, I added some live river shrimp to his tank (previously he had devoured these in seconds). This was to no avail - he hasn't eaten any of them - he chases after them, goes nose to nose and then retreats from them.
Also, he has developed a red patch on his skin at the top of his head?
I have looked on all the websites re possible reasons. The tank water is good
<What?>
- ammonia & nitrite are zero, nitrate is about 50
<There you go. High nitrates show an accumulation of nitrogenous waste and possibly other metabolites. Do partial water changes until you get them at least below 20 ppm. Re-think the filtration and maintenance of this tank to keep them down. See the link below and ensure your tank is large enough to support your fish.>
, ph is 8.3 and temp is 25.5. He looks fine, he has clear eyes and is not moulting/ trailing any mucus. One website said the red patch could be sign of stress?
<Probably a minor bacterial infection due to a weakened immune system related to waste accumulation and possibly stress.>
The only thing it looks like it could be is starvation. If it is, is there anything I can do to stop him dying from this?
<Provide this Scorpaenid with better environment as soon as possible and avoid as much stress as possible and he might get well again.>
If you can advise me on any possible remedy I would be most grateful.
<See above and also read http://www.wetwebmedia.com/lions&rels.htm and the linked files at the top of this page. Lots of information and advice available. Read especially the paragraph Environmental: Conditions on page two and the FAQs on systems and diseases.>
Thanking you in advance. Tracy.
<Hope it helps and he gets well again. Marco.>

Lionfish assistance – 11/20/2007
Marco. Thanks ever so much for your advice. Will put into action immediately and hopefully sort him out. Trace.
<You are welcome. Good luck and all the best. Marco.>