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FAQs on Marine Diseases 10  

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White spot, failed quarantine, Butterflyfish, and new dragonets      11/26/17
After 3 wks quarantine we introduced a long-nose Butterflyfish...and the next morning he had 3 light white spots on his pectoral fin.
<Mmm; might be nothing (mucus from a bend...) or Trematodes, or...>
They were gone in a day so I just hoped it wasn't a big deal. After a week, he now suddenly has 6, including a granular-looking spot on his side and the Scopas tang has 2 white spots. I'm assuming I've introduced Cryptocaryon into my 220 gallon reef tank *crying*.
<Mmm; don't panic yet>
As part of our online shopping Thursday we ordered several more fish and they should be here 11/28/2017. I have (2) 29 gallon tanks and a 70 gallon I can use for treatment. Can this be eradicated in-tank without leaving it fallow?
<IF this is Cryptocaryon, no. However, I want to state as usual that most all captive marine systems have resident parasitic, infectious agents...
That keeping them in check is a matter of balance twixt... Let's have you read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mardisease.htm
Can cleaner shrimp and neon goby fix this?
<May definitely help; but not fix if you mean totally eradicate from the system/ecology here>
I'm including my livestock list, including the ordered fish, for your consideration.
Current: *3" long-nose Butterflyfish*3" Scopas tang*4" dragon sleeper goby*(2) 2" ocellaris clowns* 3" Clarkii clown* (2) 1.5" azure damsels*1.5" pajama cardinal*1.5" Banggai cardinal*1" yellow watchman goby*1.5" peppermint shrimp*2" coral banded shrimp*Asst CUC, mostly snails
Ordered:* 2" Desjardin Sailfin tang*1.5" coral Beauty angelfish*1.5" flame angelfish*1" Ruby-red scooter dragonets*2" Rainford's Goby*Pistol Shrimp - Tiger *Mexican Turbo Snail
<So wish we could do some version of the "Vulcan Mind Meld". I would NOT treat the system, nor manipulate specific gravity... I might well add UV sterilization, raise RedOx... I urge patience at this point. IF I were
tempted to move the fish livestock elsewhere for treatment, educating myself re sampling, examination under a 'scope, and/or getting help re would be the route I advise. Please do keep me/us informed of your further
observations and actions. Bob Fenner>
Re: White spot, failed quarantine, Butterflyfish, and new dragonets     11/30/17

Update for Bob: I wish we could Mind Meld as well!...though I'm afraid your wealth of experience and knowledge would overwhelm me and put me into a reef-induced coma :-).
<Heeee! More like put you to sleep!>
I've read that article on Marine disease, but the re-read was helpful and reminded me that It has been a while since I checked my parameters. I went to get my kit, as well as my meds/treatments on-hand, and realized that my reagents are very outdated (2005) so I'm going to get a new kit.
<You are wise here>
I'll run tests anyway, but I'm not sure I'll have much confidence in them. Sit-rep: The long-nosed butterfly, Scopas tang, and an azure damsel are the only ones who have shown spots so far. None have kept those spots longer than a day or two and none have had more than 6 spots at any time.
<Mmm; am even more inclined to think/consider this as non-pathogenic in origin>
The tang and damsel have only had 1 or 2, for the most part, and the butterfly is presently free of spots. The fish don't appear to have increased their slime-coat (no waxy/whitish coating) and the granules are a little larger than what I regularly see at the local Petco (my only 'LFS' within 30 miles and which I do not patronize). I've ordered a 55w UVS for the 220 gal DT system and a 13w UVS for the quarantine, so that should help some.
<Yes they will>
I'm planning on running the 55W on an independent drain line out of the DT at approximately 180 gph, pending a probable upgrade of the system return pump. My DW decided she'd like to add some (2-3) cleaner shrimp and (2-3)
gobies (different species) to the QT-->DT as prophylaxis (she loves shrimp and gobies, so this was right up her alley).
<Sounds good>
The 'Ordered' fish arrived in apparent good health. I did a FW/Formalin dip (3-5 min or until respiratory distress), followed by a copper dip on all the fish and, assuming they all still appear healthy when I get home tonight, I will be placing the pistol shrimp, snails, and Ruby-red scooter into the DT. I've also ordered a controller to monitor pH and ORP, as well as improve the stability of my system. I'm guessing I'll need to separate the angelfish into different QTs because they came much larger than expected (closer to 2.5") and the 29gal QT isn't enough space/cover to
avoid issues. I will probably tear-out the rock/sand from the coral QT and use it for fish, since we likely won't be getting any more coral until this is clear/understood. My present plan of attack is to check/correct parameters (as needed), WC at night with vacuum to hopefully remove some cysts/parasites, install UVS, and observe. If the infection/affliction accelerates, I will remove and sample livestock and formulate a treatment regimen specific to the causative agent. Does this make sense?
<It does indeed. I do like your plan, actions. Bob Fenner>

Thalassoma sel., captive fish mortality      7/26/17
Thanks bob, i will shy away from that wrasse.
I did pick up a wrasse people don't encounter often in aquaria, but I've seen you talk about while diving in Hawaii, a Coris venusta. Subtly beautiful, and ate everything the lfs had to throw at it.
<Hardy, like most Coris spp.>
I wanted your opinion in fish mortality. I've been told a trip to a wholesaler during receiving can be an absolute living nightmare. Garbage cans full of dead fish.
Without any real, honest empirical data out there, what percentage do you put on the number of fish living a week after they leave the ocean (capture, transport, acclimation at first facility), versus one year post capture (the hobbyist home aquarium)
<Losses likely exceed 10% for some shipments; perhaps more>
And lastly, how would you rank in order of most common first, reasons fish perish:
<Largest source of mortality: trauma/stress in collecting, handling, shipping>

1. Not suitable for captivity (ribbon eels, Moorish idols, mandarins)
<On a scale of 1-10, this is a 5>
2. Improper set up (seahorse in fish only set up, Achilles tang on too small of quarters, coral eating species kept in tanks absent of coral, Garibaldi damsels kept on tropical set ups)
<Again, about a five>
3. Disease (flukes, ich, velvet etc)
<Maybe a two>
4. Environmental ( bacterial, harsh water conditions)
<A six>
5. Incompatible tank mates (too many tangs, triggers with lion fish)
<A four or so>
And lastly 6, the mysterious fish just die whether it be stress, some type of genetic defect (heart issue, liver etc)
<A one>
Any others I didn't think of. (I'm sure chemical interaction, stray
and others play a part too)
Thanks bob

A curious case, but lots of mistakes. Please advise. SW hlth; env. likely      1/13/17
Hello, hoping you can advise me on the correct order to fix an infection.
>Let's see<

Setup: 45 gallon saltwater reef tank. Probably about 8 months old. Same fish since the start.
What changed? I purchased 3 Emerald Crabs
<Three? See my and others opinions re these... archived on WWM. Search by the genus; likely Mithraculus will be most productive. Like other crabs they become predaceous... and three?>
& 1 Sand Shifting Starfish from the local LFS. I didn't quarantine them, because I searched and couldn't find anything that said these invertebrates harbor fish diseases & such.
<Mmm; anything wet can serve as a vector for pathogenic, parasitic disease>
I also purchased 2 new pieces of coral. I took the items from the bags & put them in my tank. LFS water was, as always, discarded down the sink drain.
-ALSO- Tampa, Florida had it's annual 2 day winter. The weather dropped into the 30's and the house, along with the tank dipped dramatically in temperature. I put a heater into the sump tank to try and warm the water, but it was pretty useless.
2 days later after it had warmed up:
My smaller clown fish was lying on it's side and showing difficulty to swim. It had a red streak above it's nose like a varicose vein under the skin. It's sides were a hazy white like it was losing it's color. It had a few tiny white spots on it's fins. I also happened to need to add some top off water, so I opened the door to the sump, and noticed another clown fish lying on the bio-balls. Yes, I had a clown fish in my sump from like 4 months earlier that I thought had died and the crabs ate. It was hiding in the sump under the bio-balls this whole time. Don't ask me how it got in the sump
<Overflow likely>
or survived, and yes, it is embarrassing and bizarre at the same time.
This escapee was showing the same exact same symptoms as the small clown in the tank. I also have another slightly larger clown (it's body is nearly all black though, so prob a different species) and it was babysitting the small clown but completely fine.
Attempted treatment: I have a 1 gallon small cube and put some pre-mixed saltwater in it with a small water recirculating filter. I put both sick clowns in it quickly.
<Mmm; the issue here is not likely "biological" so much as environmental. I would NOT treat>
I didn't have copper for formalin, but I did have some of that "reef safe" stuff. I have since read on your site that it is essentially snake oil & useless.
<Ah yes; most are>
I also had some ich remedy stuff on hand. Yes, I know now it was all useless - and both fish died in under an hour anyway.
<Too likely the handling pushed them over the edge>
Both of them would no doubt feel themselves slipping away and would wrestle the strength to try and move in a frenzy, only to end up floating upside down and then settle on the bottom. Horrible to watch and I couldn't help them. :-( I watched the smaller clown fish take it's last breath like a final sigh. It was really sad.
For the past 3 days, I have been watching my tank closely. The Yellow Tang seems fine, The Snowflake Blenny seems fine, The Flame Angel seems fine, the (2) Blue Chromis are fine, but the 5 line wrasse is darting around the tank like he is losing his mind and can't sit still. His belly looks distended and a bit white. I read that clown fish disease can affect
Wrasses. That would mean that everyone is at risk if that is what made it into my tank.
So, what should I do?
<Maintain optimized water quality and good nutrition and be patient is what I'd do>

I don't want to kill my coral or my invertebrates. I have a large cooler, the small 1 gallon cube and the 45 gallon tank to work with. As I have read on your site, the main tank is the problem and infected with something. I need to isolate my coral and my invertebrates and treat the tank.
1) move the coral & macro-algae floss ball to the cooler, add a power head, air stone & stick the LED strip on top
2) put the snails, crabs, cleaner shrimp, narcissus snail & sand shifting star into the 1 gallon cube
3) leave the live rock and fish in the main tank and treat it with something. What? I don't know.
<I would NOT move the animals NOR treat>

Does this seem like the best course of action to you? What would you recommend to me other than to isolate EVERYTHING next time?
<All gone over and over on WWM... some animals, items are best expedited, MOST should be isolated for observation for a few weeks, GIVEN the means of adequately maintaining them>
Also, based on the obviously related symptoms of both clown fish, what chemical should I treat the tank with?
How do I treat the Invertebrates since this may have been where the infection came from... or could it have come on the coral? I'm not sure if the cold snap had something to do with it too, but I don't want to stray from the point.
Thanks for your help. I'll wait for your answer before I start doing anything else dumb.
<What would Doug Adams likely write? "Don't Panic!". When, where in doubt, read, take deep breaths, walk the dog/s... All should resolve itself here in a few weeks. Bob Fenner>

Queen Angelfish growth        8/3/16
Hello. I just received a juvenile Queen Angelfish in the mail (ordered from live aquaria.com). I noticed it has a dark greyish growth at the top base of it's tail/end of dorsal fin.
<I see this in your pix>
It's dark colored, not pink. Could this by Lymph?
<Possibly... is a tumorous growth of some sort>
I've searched your website, but it mostly refers to pinkish or white growths. The fish is behaving fine, swimming around and eating.
Should I be concerned?
<Mmm; not really; no. In that "concern" will do nothing and that this growth is not likely "very debilitating">
Please advise.[image: Inline image 3][image: Inline image 2][image: Inline image 1]
Thank you for your time and your wonderful website! The wealth of information has helped me immensely!
<You might consider excising this material (with a sharp blade), w/ or w/o anesthetic... or placing a cleaner organisms (perhaps a Lysmata sp. shrimp) in w/ this fish, in the hope that it might remove the material or speed on an immune response>
Also, I e-mailed several months ago about a porcupine puffer that had a cloudy eye with abrasions. I was concerned about bacterial infection, but you were right.... my 180 gallon tank had Ich! I put all of the fish in quarantine tanks and let my display tank run empty for 90 days. The puffer pulled through and is back in the display tank with it's pretty iridescent eyes! Thank you so much for your help.
<Do please keep us informed. Bob Fenner>

all fish died       7/18/16
Good evening gents,
I have the weirdest thing happen to a tank of one of my clients. Saturday we service this mans tank and feed the fish as he is away on a holiday and his wife is home alone but does not like to feed the fish for some reason. Anyway we service the tank and test Nitrates and salt levels as we most of the time do with our service (twice a week in this case) and all norms seem ok (Nitrates seem to have always been hanging around 20) but only a few elegances in his tank and they all seem to be doing very well.
<Catalaphyllia/s... very stinging... >

The tank is L1m x W1m x H1.6m temperature set at 25.5C He houses 1 small blue face 7 yellow tangs 4 scopa tangs 1 yellow angel 1 key hole angel and 1 coral beauty. quite some Nassarius snails in his shallow sand bed and 3 urchins and some turbo snails. Sunday evening around 6pm I get a massage from him that his wife called him and all fish are death???
So we rush over and his tank looked like a battle field fish all over the floor of the tank non of them hide or nothing it seemed like they just fell out of the air? We had a timer installed on top of his tank and saw the amount of fish food of the tank that assembled about 2 feeding s they had missed so tells me they must have died around 9-11am as first feed of the day is set at 8am and is a bit larger in volume. When asked the wife when they died she said she didn't know as she left the house there at about 11pm (fish were still ok according to her at that time) and only came home just before I got there. So all fish must have died between 11pm and 9 am all snails and all corals are doing A ok full extended and snails had a feast on all death fish around them. we tested the water right away on Ammonia, Nitrates, Salt, temp, Ph and all norms were ok only Nitrates now elevated to 60 (should not be that deadly is it???)
<No; this is/was an after affect... the cause different, the NO3 the result of death>

and might just have been caused to all the death in the tank I presume. For some reason I think the wife had something to do with it as from past we know she is not into those fish and would rather have them out of the house......The death fish did not display any kind of parasite or anything in the past and even when death no marking on them at all. see pictures attached. What did strike me was though is that Saturday we cleaned out all skimmer cups and when we got there Sunday they looked like Picture 1 shows you. We cleaned them out again and today same thing skimmer had been
serious overworking/ see picture 2Could fish have been poisoned by something not affecting the snails and corals or what else could have caused this.
<Mmm; yes>
I experienced Velvet and Ich outbreaks previous but does not kill this instant in my idea
<No; agreed. This is/was either a sudden poisoning effect or a dire environmental one. My bet is on the former>
(velvet sure fast but not this fast and is still a bit visible after death) and in my experience sick fish die in the rocks most of the time as they get lethargic before the pass away? Anything you can add? I am baffled and would like to solve this mystery or at ;east know what I have on this guys wife if ..... but I can not imagine anyone would??Dirk
<This reads like a classical cascade event... the maintenance of the
skimmers et al., triggering an overt reaction by the Elegance Corals; they chemically (allelopathically) reacting, causing other corals to do so in return.... Please read here re:
and here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/elegcorcompfaqs.htm
and here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/CnidComp6.htm
and the linked files above. A few things that can be done now and going forward... as you'll see in your reading.
Bob Fenner>
Fw: all fish died       7/18/16

sorry guys forgot the picture
<Mmm; my analysis of possibilities, likelihood is reinforced. BobF>

Sunday                                                                                   Monday

Re: Advice please... READING, re system health really        3/9/16
<Salud Dai>
I was about to remove the tangs as planned but they have stopped fighting completely.
<Ah, good>
Now they all shoal together and the PT mostly ignores them. However 6 tangs came down with bad ich but they have been very active and eating.
<The former; very common; good that they're eating>
I would like to know if it possible that they can recover from the disease or it is just a wishful thinking?
<They can.... I would have you read, understand a few core ideas. Please review here
and here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mardisease.htm
You will find that Cryptocaryon is almost always present... that keeping "the balance" tipped in your (host) fishes favor is critical; that there are several ways/categories involved in this balance. READ now>
In other words, they will die if nothing is done. I have a 265 gallon and water chemistry is excellent (nitrate=5). Second issue is that my refugium is full of cyanobacteria, hair algae and the chatoe has stopping growing.
<? Please do learn to use the search tool (on every page) and/or indices. Good and PLENTY is supplied on WWM Re BGA>
I have a clip on 6500K LED light and in the past, the Chaeto was growing very rapidly.
<... then something is "missing", deficient; favouring the Cyano... READ>
There is none of the hair, Cyano in the DT and the coralline algae spots are appearing everywhere. Should I do anything to the refugium or let it be. My sincere thanks for you reply. Dai
<You should do something... Bob Fenner>

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