FAQs on Marine System Set-Up & Components 29 Related FAQs: Best Marine Set-Up FAQs 1, Best FAQs 2, Marine Set-Up 1, FAQs 2, FAQs 3, FAQs 4, FAQs 5, FAQs 6, FAQs 7, FAQs 8, FAQs 9, FAQs 10, FAQs 11, FAQs 12, FAQs 13, FAQs 14, FAQs 15, FAQs 16, FAQs 17, FAQs 18, FAQs 19, FAQs 20, FAQs 21, FAQs 22, FAQs 23, FAQs 24, FAQs 25, Marine Set-Up 26, Marine Set-Up 27, Marine Set-Up 28, FOWLR Set-Ups, Reef Tank Setups, Small Tank Setups, Moving Aquarium Systems, Related Articles: Marine Set-Up, Marine Planning, Getting Started with a Marine Tank By Adam Blundell, MS, Technology: Putting on the Brakes: How much is too much? By Tommy Dornhoffer Reef Set-Up, Fish Only Systems, Fish and Invertebrate Systems, Small Marine Set-Ups, Large Marine Systems, Cold/Cool Water Marine Systems, Moving Aquariums,

A mix of encrusting sponges. Sipadan 08

Small Marine Aquariums Book 1: Invertebrates, Algae New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 2: Fishes New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 3: Systems New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner

To the staff at WetWebMedia: Help w/ new SW set up       10/22/14
Hi, my name is Mary Wheelehan, and I am greatly in need of your expertise.
I am currently in my senior year of high school, and I have been working on an extensive school project concerning the care and keeping of marine aquariums. For the past year, I have been gathering information through a variety of sources (including the magazine Tropical Fish Hobbyist, through which I found your web address) in order to best educate myself for this year, when I will actually be purchasing an aquarium in hopes of
establishing a successful community of marine fishes. I'm writing in hopes that one of the staff members will consent to help me through my project for the rest of the school year.
<Certainly>
This would primarily include email communication whenever I should have a question about my tank, and a small
presentation of my work to you at the end of the year. Please tell me what you think of this, and hopefully you'll be able to help me create a tank  of happy, healthy fish!
Thank you so much!
Sincerely,
Mary Wheelehan
<Welcome. Bob Fenner> 

Beginner     5/29/14
Hello wwm,
<Howsit Geoff?>
I'm considering a 50 -60 gallon tank and am pondering a first marine experience.
How expensive is start up?
<A few to several hundred dollars likely>
How much time is needed for maintenance?
<A few hours a week>
I have had a large fresh water Amazon tank before and enjoyed raising Discus.
<Ahh, harder to keep Symphysodon successfully than a simple salt set up>
Thanks
Geoff
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Bacterial Bloom?    2/19/14
Hi!  I recently started (1 week ago) a new 95 gallon reef tank using Dr. Tim's one and only, three fish and a small cleanup crew.
<... I would have held off on the last>
Immediately afterwards, my tank water got cloudy and has remained ever since.
<Yes; not uncommon... microbial population explosion most likely>
I know he states on his website that the bacterial bloom I'm seeing isn't the bacteria in the bottle and that it can be attributed to the faster growth of heterotrophic bacteria.  The only additional things I'm using is activated charcoal and running a skimmer.  All parameters look good (ammonia, nitrites and nitrates are all zero).
Water changes seem to have no affect. Is there anything else I can do to assist in clearing it up? UV? Air stones?
<... sparse feeding; no more livestock; patience>
Thanks!
<Welcome; Bob Fenner>

Re: More re: bleaching a tank versus completely air drying a tank to eradicate disease, SW installs      9/20/13 Bob -- tank pics attached  from about a year ago......need to get some of the completed for you.  This is in my home office = a 265 and 3 150's plumbed together into a 300 gallon sump with coral frag tank  also plumbed into this.....There are a bunch more reactors and gear in the sump now too.....also a bunch of support tanks not shown ( QT, Hospital, etc)....I just wanted to send some "initial" pics" and can send some "finish pics" later.....   I am on WWM at least once a week -- and prior to that about every day.  thanks for all the help along the way! Sincerely,  David S. Sahaida <Ah, thank you for sharing. A nice, clean install. Am sure many others will be envious, get great ideas of what they'd like from your experience. Cheers, BobF>

Refugium LED lighting... 90 gal., SW likely set up q.s     9/17/13
James,
<Hello Dan>
Long time no help!  Much has happened since you straightened my tank out. Unfortunately, a flooding was one of them. I had to break that amazing tank down. I gave away thousands worth in live stock.
Now we are moving to a house and i want to start planning the new version.  There are several ?s.
1) the 90 gal tank stayed outside under an awning for about 2 yrs.
will it be ok? I bought it new in late 2004!
<Should be if there was no water in it during a freeze.>
2) i need a new stand. Threw out the old due to rot. Not taking chances. What you recommend?
<Anything you wish provided it is constructed for aquarium use or built well enough to support 1,000+ pounds.>
3) i think my AquaC 120 is still ok but if not...  It was outside as well.
<Well that is easy enough to check and same as above regarding freezing.>
4) the tank is a predrilled oceanic with overflow left of center.
Should I redesign the overflow?
<For what reason?  What is the size of the bulkhead?>
I've seen various overflows and i would imagine that my older tank design may not be as good. I can't move the drilled hole but i can redesign the overflow if worth it.
5) need sump/refugium. Want to do it right. Suggestions? Can build one but still need design.
<Might want to peruse here and related articles in the header. 
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm .  I also suggest the use of LED lighting for your refugium.  Very economical and long lasting.>
6)  i read you started a business selling this stuff? Which one?!
Would log e to order.
<I do not build sumps/refugiums but I do sell Orphek LED Lighting.  You can contact me at sales-3@orphek.com with any questions you may have.>
7) backups: what ways can i make this one from becoming an insurance claim?!
<Design/build a sump which can support the flow rate and water should a power failure occur.
Never rely on check valves, they have been known to stick.>
Many more questions before i start but don't want to overload!
<No problem.  James (Salty Dog)> 

Advice; using WWM     8/22/13
Could you please give me a recommendation for my 150 gallon reef aquarium I am setting up.
<Okay>
 The over flow with go into a sump. Your advise on protein skimmer and return pump would be appreciated.
<... this information is posted... in FAQs archived on WWM>
  I am leaning towards a exterior return pump. I will eventually add a sea grass refugium.   I have read your articles and have studied a lot but still would value your opinion.
<...? On what?>
 The head area for pump return would equal 12 feet considering 1 foot per 90 degree on return. There are two overflows. Sincerely , Suzy
<Keep reading. Bob Fenner>

Outdoor Saltwater Aquarium    8/9/13
Crew,
<Eric>
I have searched your site and not been able to find a single question addressing this issue. Sorry if I missed it. I am considering moving my 300g saltwater aquarium (reefish) outside. I am in the process of doing some renovations out there and I need to decide relatively soon whether or not I need to make a place for it. It is currently housed with 12 flasher wrasses, goldflake angel, regal angel, powder blue tang, and 6 yellow tangs. It is also housed with 20-30 corals of varying sizes, but I stop short of calling it a reef tank. Fish have all been in tank for 6+ years except for the yellow tangs, I tend to lose 1 every 2-3 years for unknown reasons.
<With you so far>
Anyways, the place I am considering moving the tank would be outside, completely in the shade. My "vision" is to have the tank surround on 3 sides by stone work and concrete a build insulation into the tank on the bottom and those 3 sides. The front would obviously be exposed so that the fish could be viewed. I would create a rain proof cover (the sun is completely blocked by vegetation, but rain gets through) over the tank but the lights that are currently on the tank would still be used (3 metal halide lamps). I would also have built an insulating cover for the front for times when I may be gone for the weekend, or during a busy work week.
<Ok>
So I only see 3 problems. 1) algae - but have I done enough to "protect"  my tank from yellow sunlight that is algae causing. 2) heating and cooling the tank. I don't think heating would be that hard, but wonder how tough it would be to cool the tank in the summer.
<How hot does the ambient get there? The mid eighties F should be fine w/o a chiller>
 Was thinking maybe allowing the tank to get up to 82 or so in the summer, which may make that more practical. This would of course exacerbate the algae problem. 3) My tank is perfect where it is. They say never change something that is working.
Any thoughts? I know this is such an open ended question but I don't really know how to be more specific. Thanks for your website and your help when I need it!
Regards,
Eric
<Can be done. Years back I helped install a few such systems outdoors. As you state, incident sunlight and heat/cooling issues are the real sources of trouble. Will you be outside (enough) to enjoy this system?  I hope so.
Bob Fenner>

Re: Planning Question... SW Sys.    7/13/13
As promised here's a quick video of the tank layout. I also have an old 55g tank in the boiler room I plan to use for QT. Any comments are welcome.
Still a bit unsure where to put the RO/DI since I want to set up an auto top-off.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r_UcNEwA07U
Best,
Kevin
<Great to have the bathroom, sink, drains behind the tank for ready use... And I do like/appreciate the good use of flexible tubing (as opposed to rigid) for ready movement, change of the mechanical plumbing under the tank... I would use extra length (you can get at hardware stores)
pressurized lines for the RO/DI of course... for when you'll want to pull the entire unit out/forward for work; mainly replacement of cartridges.
Further ideas? I would paint/coat the wood under and above the tank now (before setting up the system w/ biota, water)... even though you have the air vent & humidastat... and just to make sure, you do intend to remove the polythene cover twixt the tank, over your lights? Bob Fenner>
Re: Planning Question    7/14/13
Yes on the plastic off the lights. I'll be sure to paint the trim before I put water in the tank.
<Good>
I just made a cardboard footprint of the tank to plan the aquascaping.
Feeling good about my design. I'm planning to use some 1/2 inch PVC "stands to help me build some towers to hide the returns. I'm guessing I can get a little closer to this than the walls since the overflows are vented?
<Ah yes>
Thanks again.
<Welcome. B>

Questions about the products I bought/buying/Marine Set-Up 10/29/12
Crew,
<Paul>
I have a few questions about my saltwater setup that I plan on doing this winter. I have gone through a good portions of the articles on WWW which have given me the confidence to tackle this project but I still like to get your opinion if that is ok?
<Certainly.>
As this is my first saltwater tank it will be a learning experience for sure. For stocking my plan is to do a few fish, maybe start with some green Chromis and some easy corals (still need to do more research on the corals on which ones are easy/hardy). The tank I am using is a 90 gallon non drilled tank with a store bought stand. For the filtration I went with an Eshopps PF-800 overflow box which will drain into 30 gallon tank that I will use for the sump,
<Mmm, can you return this overflow? Much better off with an overflow that allows use of an Aqua Lifter Vacuum Pump. This greatly minimizes/eliminates air bubbles trapped in the siphon tube which
causes you to restart the siphon often enough to learn new cuss words. My choice would be a CPR CS100 with the Aqua Lifter Vacuum Pump.
Take a look here. http://premiumaquatics.com/aquatic-supplies/CS100.html>
The return pump is an OTP-3000 with 3/4" clear flex tubing for the return hose. I'm pretty sure that this will give me enough gph flow. Thoughts?
<I'd go with the next model up to make up for head loss. You won't get anywhere near 650gph going into the tank.>
I plan to add 2 power heads to the main tank for water movement but I haven't decided on which ones and what sizes/gph I want to go with yet so I am open to suggestions. For the sump and skimmer this gets a little tricky. With my stand I only have 22" from the inside bottom of the stand to the top of the front access door with a few inches past that so my options on a proteins skimmer are kind of limited due to height restrictions. So far one of the better options more reasonably priced options I have found is a Reef Octopus NWB-110 which will go into the first chamber. I have read a few reviews on this skimmer but do you or anyone on the team have any experience with this type of skimmer like how easy it is to setup/tune?
<I've heard good reports on Octopus skimmers but you may want to post this question on one of the marine forums and get input from others that actually use them.>
After a few baffles I plan to fill the next compartment in the sump with live rock only to aid in the filtration.
<Not really necessary with live rock in the main system.>
Lastly will be the return pump will be in the last chamber. Do you think with the sump, protein skimmer and powerheads that there will be enough water movement and filtration?
<Yes, but go with a couple of MJ1200 powerheads and preferably the inexpensive Aquarium Systems Wavemaker.>
Back to the corals the tank gets some indirect light from a west facing window which isn't enough to support most corals and it just so happens that I got a very good deal on an Aquaticlife T5 HO 6-lamp light fixture with lunar LEDs. This partnered with some sunlight what would be my limitations/concerns on what I could successfully stock?
<This should be fine for most corals if not all. What type of lamps come with this fixture?>
Thanks for taking the time to help!!!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Paul
Re Questions about the products I bought/buying/Marine Set-Up 10/30/12
James,
<Paul>
I'm kind of stuck with the overflow box and return pump.
<OK. The pump will work well since you are going to be using additional means of water movement.>
 I won't be back to the store I bought them from till December and I got such a good deal on them I doubt they will take them back. I knew the gph would be a little on the low side with this setup so I wasn't planning on over stocking with fish. This is not my ideal setup but with out having a drilled tank and my wife putting her foot down on me buying a different tank I will just have to make this work the best I can.
<I understand.>
I had a couple of local people recommend the Octopus skimmer but I don't have my heart set on it. Is there is a different manufacturer that you have had good experience with?
<AquaC is a very good manufacturer and is based in California.>
My initial thought was to put live rock in the sump to help compensate for the lower gph I will end up having. Is this a bad idea?
<With two additional power heads you will have enough water movement.>
If so what would you recommend in the sump for additional filtration if not live rock? Sand bed or just leave it open?
<Maybe a small bag of carbon.  The live rock will take care of denitrification process.>
Thanks for the help!!
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Paul
The light comes stock with:
(4) 36" T5 HO 39W Actinic / Blue Lamps
(1) 36" T5 HO 39W 10,000K Lamps
(1) 36” T5 HO 39W Purple Lamp
(4) 1W Lunar LED`s
<Mmm, wonder what a purple lamp is, thinking high range UV.  I'd replace the purple and one of the actinics with 10K lamps.>

Crushed Coral Substrate- PLEASE RESPOND... learn to/use WWM, SW set up f'       10/10/12
Hello My question is very simple; do you recommend using crushed coral as a substrate for my marine tank set up?
<Often so; yes... along w/ other calcareous substrates. This is posted/archived on WWM>
i am in the process of setting things up after months of research.
My Display tank is 150 gallons and sump with refugium is 50 gallons.
I plan on using crushed coral DSB in the display and refugium. Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated.
<... Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/marsetupindex1.htm
scroll down to "Marine Substrates....", "DSBs...">
Thanking you in advance Kerry PS other equipment that I have:3 Kessil A350 LED pendant lights
Coralife 220 protein skimmer and 1 hang on Prizm skimmer
Coralife 500 gal Calcium reactor
1 phosphate reactor
1reactor with carbon
I plan on using Chaeto in the refugium
I also plumbed a closed loop system with a quiet one 3000 driving the flow and a large SCWD 1"
<See WWM re this/these... Closed loops are passé. Bob Fenner>
my return pump is a Mag drive 1800I also have JBJ Ocean stream 1600GPH power heads on a wave timer 

Time to ask the experts; actually, to read     10/8/12
Team,
<Paul>
After years of fresh water fish keeping I have decided to try my hand at a saltwater. Go me! I have a few questions that I can’t seem to get figured out well enough for my liking.
<Go ahead>
The tank I plan on converting is an non drilled 90gal tank that sits in my living room. I have been reading for days about filtration for this as well as asking the few people that I know that have saltwater setups and I have been unable to come up with a good solution for this tank. My plan is to do a few fish, live rock and some coral but for now I just want to get the water flowing and worry about stocking later. I know a sump would be ideal but since I haven’t set one up before I am more than nervous about getting the plumbing wrong and flooding my living room plus I want to keep the canopy on the tank so tall hanging filters won't work. A canister seems simple enough but this the best way to go for good water quality?
<Not the best, no; but can be made to work. I'd just read re>
And if I go with the canister what is the best choice for a protein skimmer?
<... this too is posted, gone over and over... Let's have you either read a good overall marine aquarium book or two or just scan through here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
I don’t want to break my bank on this but I do want to get good quality and easy to maintain products to keep the livestock healthy and happy.
I have gotten so many different opinions
<... look for the facts, rationale behind such... Like all fields, some viewpoints are (more) valid than others>
and read so many different articles I’m down right confused. I have asked my LFS all of these questions but they keep trying to sell me on all these different products.
<Tis their job>
Since my tank isn't drilled it’s hard to find things up here that don’t require to be plumbed
<Available on/through the Net...>
and I can still use my canopy.
<Can be easily modified>
I want this to be a fun project this winter without a major incident like flooding my house when the power goes out.
Paul
<More than understood. Bob Fenner> 

Drawing Board, SW set up     5/6/12
Dear WWM,
   I am planning to set up a larger system. I currently have a 55, and decided it was way to small. I am planning to get at min. a 175 gal. I do not currently have a sump and thought the 55 would work great for this.
<Agreed>
I was thinking it would be better to just drill holes into the tank and allowing it to overflow as water is pumped back to the system, as opposed to doing a syphon overflow box.
<See WWM re... agreed as well>
 I would probably also have several powerheads in the system.
<Several, as in the M.E. "many"? Not necessary. Two good ones well-placed will do>
 The design I had in mind would only have one pump in the sump that would pump water into the display tank. The idea is that the same amount of water is added as leaves the system. It also would protect from issues with a power outage because the holes would be on the same level. Is this a good idea or not really?
<? Read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
Should I attempt to assemble
something similar before using the actual tank just to make sure it works?
<... better to plan all out on paper... tools, materials, steps to completion... B>
Thanks,
Bryce 

New Tank/Marine Set Up 5/2/12
Hello WetWeb Crew,
<Hello Erik and Eric>
My friend is looking to start up a 55 salt water tank.  He is willing to put about $250 in after the purchase of the tank.
<Mmm, not much to work with there.  A decent protein skimmer will run over 150.00.>
He was just wondering what type of filtration method would be the best option?
<Best to start by reading here. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsetupez.htm
And an index to our marine articles can be found here.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/index.htm>
Thanks,
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Erik and Eric

Tank Setup, acrylic manuf. sel., plumbing, circ.  4/13/12 Hi Bob and crew,
<Hello Kevin>
First off I'd like to say the site you have is just awesome, so much information.
<Glad you enjoy and thank you.>
I am getting ready to finish part of my basement and I am going to be putting in a new setup down there. Part of the wall will be bumped out and the tank will be viewable from the front and right side and I will have a small fish room to the left. Also, this will be my first attempt at a reef tank. I wanted to run the setup by you to get your opinion. I currently have a glass 150 gallon FOWLR and I am looking to purchase an acrylic 75 x 24 x 28 tank from Envision Acrylics. Have you heard anything on this company or recommend anyone else?
<Mmm, they do have a notable list of clients. I would be happy with them.>
Since I am able to customize it I was wondering what would be the best configuration for the two overflows. Should I put two boxes in the back corners, a trapezoid in the middle with two drains or I've seen coast to coast external overflows. Is one better than the other? I was leaning towards the trapezoid in the middle
with two drains in it.
<I would lean your way as well.>
As far as the drain size, would two 1 1/2 in pipes with Durso's be enough?
<Yes.>
Looking on your site a 1 1/2 in pipe should handle about 750gph, and if I'm correct I want the tank to turn over 3-5 times.
<Actual flow rate will depend on your plumbing, avoid elbows if possible or other restrictive fittings. You should easily get 800gph through each drain. See here.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/BulkheadFloRateArt.htm>
The tank is about 220 gallons plus about a 50 gallon sump, so I was thinking about 900-1000 gallons per hour? The two 1 1/2 in pipes will give me 1500 gph so I would have a little bit of cushion.
<Do you plan on supplementing the actual flow in the tank with powerheads?
I would shoot for a total flow rate, including powerheads of at least 2000gph.>
This leads me to my next question. For the return pump I would like to do an external pump, I was looking at the Iwaki's or the Reeflo's. Should my return run over the top or should I run the return to the top of the tank through the back and use loc line? Should I use 1 inch or 3/4 inch piping for the return?
<I would incorporate the returns in the overflow box and would go with the output size of the pump.>
I was thinking of coming up from the pump to the top of the tank and branching off a T fitting to the right and left side. Based on this, which pump would work the best? I was looking at Iwaki MD40RLXT, (don't know if this is strong enough).
<I would opt for a pump that would put out at least 2000gph. You should put a ball valve on the pump return for controlling the flow rate.>
I also plan on using a Vortech for additional flow so it would not totally rely on the return for flow.
<Great, you have answered my question above.>
My last question, I promise, is it safe to use the sand and live rock that I have currently in my FOWLR setup for the new tank. It has been up and running now for about 3 years.
<Mmm, depends on how nasty it is. Likely full of detritus/waste. In my opinion it's not worth the trouble and time to clean the old sand. Better to just replace and start anew.>
Sorry for being so long, I just want to make sure I do it right the first time.
<Do plan carefully.>
Thanks
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Kevin
Re Tank Setup, through-put size, pb....   4/13/12
James,
<Kevin>
Thanks for the reply. I have a couple more questions now after reading your response. Based on your response and checking on pumps of 2000gph, the piping for the return would have to be 1 inch. Should I have one or two returns?
<A one inch line coming up and teed off and reduced to two 3/4" lines.>
You said to run the return through the overflow box. Would I want to run it over the top or would going up half way and putting a bulkhead be better?
<Bulkhead fittings through the overflow. Envision Acrylics should be able to do this for you. They will place the returns in the proper position.
Just tell them or whoever what you want to accomplish.>
Do they make any type of loc-line type returns for 1 inch piping?
Everything I see is either 1/2 or 3/4 inch, so what would my options be with a 1 inch return pipe?
<You will be teeing off into two 3/4" lines so there will be no problem.>
Also, I will not reuse my sand from my current tank and I assume the same would be said for the live rock?
<The rock could be bleached and put through several rinsings and be seeded with a few pieces of fresh live rock. You can use the old rock as base rock to build up bommies or whatever plan you have.>
Last question, are there any other acrylic company's you would suggest looking into?
<The Aquarium Company does nice work at reasonable prices. Might want to give them a call at (888)989-8988. Bob may input here with other suggestions.>
Thanks for all your help!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Kevin

Fish Tank/Marine Set-Up 2/23/12
Hello,
<Hi Patty>
I have a 50 gallon mini ocean aquarium (self-contained). It was a gift to my biology classroom.  I would like to set the tank up for invertebrates - coral, anemone, worms, sponges, etc...
<Some will not be compatible with others.>
 I have 5 pounds of LR and about 1/2 inch of base.
<Not enough rock.>
It has been going for about 2 months.  Unfortunately I am having a hard time getting it started. Everything I have put in it has died except for a little yellow goby. I also have fuzzy green and reddish purple algae growing on my other rocks and bottom. My levels are  salinity 1.02 ppm;
<I'd get this to 1.024-25>
 temperature 79 f , pH 8.2, Nitrite .05,nitrate 5.0 and ammonia .15. 
<Nitrite and ammonia both too high.  Should read 0.  Ammonia at this level is lethal to marine animals.>
I know my ammonia is high but I am not sure how to get it down and I am not sure what animals to start with. Obviously we are all novices at this endeavor. I have read a lot on line and I have a pet store man trying to help. Your site seems to be the best to answer direct questions. My students call it "The Tank of Death".  Do you have any suggestions on what to do?
<Yes, start by reading here and related articles found in the header. 
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marineSetUp.htm
James (Salty Dog)>

New to SW... 11/14/11
Hello I inherited a tank from brother n law. Its a 4foot 45gallon tank. It has an aqua c H.O.B skimmer with MarineLand 1200 powerhead and 2 Hydor 4's (older model). I have ocean sand and supposedly live rock with 1 clown fish and 1 hermit crab. Its what survived. Question on skimmer...when I turn it on it makes lots of noise and white bubbles forms up middle tube to overflow rectangular box. It should be black foam coming up right?
<Mmm, darker, yes. Let's have you contact AquaC and chat w/ them re:
http://www.proteinskimmer.com/Templates/Support.htm
How do I know if rock is actually alive?
<Visually... seeing things growing on it>
I did notice one night a clear spaghetti looking thing coming out of a hole in the rock. And there is tiny green pointy things growing on rock.
And I have both Hydors pointing at each other near top of the tank. When should this tank establish itself and how do I get skimmer working properly and quiet?? thanks guys
<Mmm... well, best for you to go back a few steps... read a good, complete general marine aquarium handbook. You can borrow such from a local library.
Neale has a list re... but better for you to do a search on the Net re others reviews as to what is helpful. Alternatively, you're welcome to read through WWM's root web starting here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/marsetupindex1.htm
Bob Fenner>

"New" old saltwater tank 10/8/11 Hi Crew,
I have a 55 gallon saltwater aquarium that my wonderful husband just bought me as a birthday present. (It is the first tank I've had in 12 years) He bought it from private sale from a man (had it for 1 yr) that had bought it from private sale from another man (unknown how long he had it).
While some of the filters and the tank and stand are newer, the water in it is at least 2 yrs old, it has a couple of inches of sand on the bottom and a single layer of rock on the bottom- it's currently a fish-only tank. It has 2 large bio-wheel filters on the top, a power head, 2 heaters, 2 aerators, and a sump running to a 15 gal high underneath that has a filter w/ Biowheel, rock and shells for substrate, and a mesh baggie with "something" in it. A powerful pump (500g/hr) brings the water back to the main tank. It currently has 4 fish in it, all established but I'm afraid are inappropriate for this size tank; a green Bird Wrasse 5-6", a Niger Trigger 4", a Sailfin Tang 3.5"
<Needs more room than this>
, and a Maroon Clown (yellow-striped) 3". Each of them looks fantastic and all are eating and behaving normally. Oh, and there's 1 hermit crab.
You need to know I live in Oklahoma, and after this year's drought our water here is worse than ever for a variety of toxins and concentrates that were already a problem.
<Do look into a Reverse Osmosis unit for your pet-fish and potable uses>
The man we got the tank from said he just put the Tapwater into the tank mixed with Instant Ocean salt (no other chemicals!).
<Is fine if the tap is okay>
He also said he's never vacuumed the substrate and rarely performed water changes. The water is crystal clear and algae growth is minimal. The rocks don't look "live" which surprises me. They are lightly dusted with algae, shouldn't they have growth on them?
<Not necessarily much... IF there was little introduced>
Here's the main problem- I tested the water and pH was 8.0, Ammonia was 0, Nitrite 0, but nitrate was 160!
<Boing!>
Also, my SG was a low 1.010!
<Ahh, this might well account for the lack of rock-life here>
We accidently knocked the sump out of the bottom tank and poured around 7 gallons out on my living room floor, providing an opportunity for a water change. My Tapwater, after treating with Amquel and Marine buffer read 0 for all parameters. I added the 7 gallons back to the tank slowly over 2 days because I'm afraid of my water being too different for the system. I also have been raising the salt content slowly- it's now 1.014. I added Marine buffer and have the pH up to 8.2 now. After testing the water again, the nitrate levels are still at least 160! I read your pages on high nitrates and was thinking about changing all the filter pads for sure. There are these blue and black plastic balls with holes all through them that are in each of the filters as well- what are these and should I change them out, too?
<Mmm, they are "bio-balls"... there are quite a few varieties... And you can/could change or not. Please read here re: http://wetwebmedia.com/bioballfaq2.htm
Do I need a protein skimmer?
<Mmm, in almost all marine set-ups these are worthwhile:
http://wetwebmedia.com/toskimornotfaq.htm
Is my sump considered a refugium and as such, should I maybe focus on creating a biological control for nitrates?
<Mmm, I didn't read re what is there... But you can:
http://wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm
and the linked files above>
I have never had a sump before, so I don't fully understand how to use one.
<Read... Your system is a mix of older tech. (the wet dry media) and newer (sump)... there are "many roads"... paths one can choose in keeping marine systems; with their assigned promoters/adherents and detractors... Whatever works is fine>
My goal for this tank is to have a fish only with live rock. I want to put cured coraline covered live rock into it as soon as possible. Do I have to wait until my nitrates are under control or is live rock exactly what I need to help bring the levels down?
<Yes; I would. Too likely problems w/ the current water quality. For now, read>
Thank you for your help!
Elaine
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: "New" old saltwater tank, set up 10/10/11
Thank you so much for your fast and helpful response!
<Welcome>
I have ordered a protein skimmer (Coralife 33000 Super Skimmer w/pump, 65 gal), and I'm hoping this is a good enough skimmer to do the job for my tank. Much to my delight, I have a RO filter system on my kitchen sink so maybe there's still hope for my Oklahoman water.
<Ah yes...>
I decided to remove the bioballs after reading up on them, as it would seem in this established tank they are more likely to be nitrate factories than helpful.
<Well put>
I have my SG up to 1.015 and still working on raising it. Do you have any suggestions for raising the salt content as quickly and safely as possible?
<Best to do as you are... elevate gradually w/ water changes (weekly or so)>
I have been taking a gallon of water from the sump and adding another 1/2 cup Instant Ocean and then pouring it back in a few times a day thus far. I am so grateful to have a resource like your site available- thanks!
Elaine
<A pleasure. BobF>

Upsizing tank? Reading 6/5/2011
Im wanting to upsize my 45g FOWLR tank to a 90g.
<Bigger is better...>
My tank consists of:
30lbs of Live sand
60-70lbs of live rock
Bakpak 2 protein skimmer
2 powerheads
Ornate Wrasse
Flame Angel
2 False Clowns
Foxface Rabbit fish
I know I'm going to need more sand and more live rock. What's the best way to handle this?
<Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/substrepl2.htm
and: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/lrcurefaqs3.htm
and the linked files above...>
Is the new tank going to have to cycle?
<Depends on the "quality" of the new LR... I'd pre-cure outside the system or cure in it sans your to-be-moved livestock... Please learn to use the search tool on WWM>
Should I put the old live rock into the new tank immediately with the new live rock if does have to cycle?
<Up to you>
I'd prefer to not have both tanks running at the same time. Since this will have a mix of old rock/old sand and new rock/sand what should I do with the fish?
<... take a risk, use cured LR...>
My other question is I'd like to upgrade my lighting on the new 90g tank with T5 lighting and 2 Bakpak protein skimmers as I wont have the money for a sump/refugium for a while. Will the lighting and skimmers be enough to add some corals?
<Again... this depends on the species of "corals" chosen, their placement...>
Your help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

BioBubble and Marine Fish 4/27/11
To whom it may concern at BioBubble,
I recently visited your website and watched your informational video.
Your product, in the suggested uses for small mammals (such as hamsters, mice, etc) and small reptiles certainly seems interesting and innovative, as well as aesthetically pleasing. However, I find it distressing that you would suggest and encourage keeping aquatic marine life in one of your "BioBubbles." For example, in your video, you show not just one, but two juvenile specimens of Plectorhinchus sp. fish being kept in one of your BioBubbles. Please consider the fact that even one of these fish needs a habitat of several hundred gallons of water. Similarly, the other species of marine fish (clown fish, dwarf angel fish, etc.) shown to be kept in your products, require far more space and filtration than your product could possibly provide (as it is presented).

Thus, I would like to respectfully, but emphatically, encourage you to revise your marketing. Marketing your product as a reasonable habitat for clown fish, dwarf angelfish, and other such demanding ornamental
marine life is irresponsible, misleading and likely to incite a strong negative response from experienced marine aquarists. Furthermore, given that the marine aquarium industry is already under heavy scrutiny from the environmental conservation community, it's of the utmost importance that businesses operating in the aquarium industry demonstrate themselves to be responsible and educated. When an aquarium product company presents itself as gravely ignorant of the requirements of these animals, this only hurts the hobby and industry as a whole. It will benefit us all if companies producing products for the aquarium hobby conduct themselves with integrity, educating themselves on the requirements of these animals before suggesting products entirely inappropriate for their care.

In a time when many of those involved in environmental regulation and protection would like to see the marine aquarium industry shut down entirely, I implore you. Please do not to make yourselves yet another
example of the ignorance and irresponsibility that contributes to the destruction of these fragile marine organisms.

Thank you,
Sara Liva (aka Sara Mavinkurve)
Data posted to form 1 of http://www.apaapproved.com/contact.htm 4/27/11
> This is APA's response (very nice) to the complaint I made regarding their "APA approval" of the product.
<Well... all right! B>
Re: Data posted to form 1 of http://www.apaapproved.com/contact.htm
> Sara,
> If you would like to leave feedback about a product please do so at www.apaapproved.com (Click "Leave Feedback")
> You will note we addressed your concern in our report stating;
> "Be sure to keep the bio load low (limit the number of inhabitants) in this small environment. Also be careful what species you mix together. Photo above and on packaging are for unit reference only and not an accurate depiction of size, number or mix of inhabitants."
> Their video in (sic, "is") new, we have not seen it, and we agree with you that it is very misleading as far as what can be kept in the Bio Bubble. We will address it with them immediately.
> Best Regards,
> Jen
> Jennifer Hughes
> Approval Support
> American Pet Association
> 800-APA-PETS

Setting Up A Saltwater Tank After 12 Years In Storage/Marine Set Up - 2/9/11
WWD Crew,
<?? WWM>
<Hello Stewart>
I am extremely excited my wife has finally 'allowed' me to set up my 75 gallon saltwater tank.
<Bless her heart.>
After reading many posts on WWM, I am a little concerned about my dated technology. My current system consists simply of a CPR 900 wet/dry filter with bio bale, crushed coral substrate and dead coral/rocks. Before I spend a lot of time setting it up 'old school,' it would be great to know how to convert or maximize my FO/FOWLR system. I have a few specific questions based on what I have read on WWM.
1) Should I convert my CPR 900 wet/dry to a sump? Does this simply mean taking out the bio bale and replacing with live rock? Is it possible? And what is the best way to do this?
<Yes, it is possible, simply remove the bio bale. You will need live rock for denitrification
if you go this route.>
2) If I convert to a sump, do I have to have live rock in the aquarium?
3) If I continue with the wet/dry, what is the best way to control nitrates?
<A good protein skimmer and practice a good maintenance schedule.>
4) From what I have read, the Aqua C Remora seems to be the most recommended protein skimmer. Will this fit in my converted CPR 900 sump? or do they make a hang system?
<You need to measure the area in the sump to see if it will fit. The Aqua C Urchin Pro would be a good choice for your system and it's footprint is 7.5" x 3 1/4". They also make this model in the hang on style (HOT).>
5) My wife wants to replace the crushed coral substrate with live black sand. Is this recommend? Pros and Cons?
<In my opinion live sand is a waste of money. Dry aragonite sand will soon teem with micro fauna. As to black sand, do ensure it is aragonite based and not silica sand.>
6) I treated my aquarium with Cupramine in the past. Can I use the same gear (substrate, rocks, etc...) to switch to a reef tank in the future?
<You should be fine here.>
7) Would my system need a UV sterilizer? And what size and brand would you recommend?
<The cost far outweighs the benefits. Best to put the money toward a good protein skimmer.>
8) Anything else I should do/not do as I start up my aquarium again?
<I suggest refreshing your mind by reading. Here is an index to our marine information.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/index.htm>
Thanks so much for your time. Any light you can shed on these questions would be greatly appreciated.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Stewart
Re Setting Up A Saltwater Tank After 12 Years In Storage/Marine Set Up - 2/9/11- 2/14/11
WWM,
<Stewart>
Thanks so much for your quick reply (James).
<You're welcome.>
I concur with others that WWM is invaluable for us mere aquarium mortals. I live in an area w/o a LFS, so the website has helped me avoid a plethora of issues. I think I am getting close to starting up my tank, just a few more questions to make sure I am optimizing my system. My wife thinks I went off the deep end, 'cause I have spent the weekend on your website trying to figure everything out. Here is my current plan with some additional questions. I will convert my CPR 900 wet/dry into a sump with the Aqua C Urchin Pro protein skimmer. I will have the converted sump empty except the skimmer and the return pump. This way I will not have as many maintenance issues below the aquarium. In the aquarium I want to put live rock, and have several options available. This is where my questions arise.
1) I have not started my aquarium yet (nothing in it), so can I cure live rock I purchase (e.g., Foster and Smith) in the aquarium? Once cured then I could start adding fish and other livestock? Is this a good idea?
<Yes, and you may want to read here if you haven't already.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_2/cav2i3/Live_Rock/live_rock.htm>
2) I may be able to purchase Bali live rock from another local tank owner.
His tank has been going for a couple of years and he just does not have time. Would this be a good option? If it is simply going from one tank to
another, would it have to be cured?
<Should be fine as long as the rock is kept damp and the transition time is kept to a minimum.>
3) Second part to above question. The Bali rock from above is about 40 lbs and I have 40 lbs of not used cretaceous rock. Would this be an acceptable live rock foundation? I know it will take awhile for the cretaceous rock to become alive, will this be ok for my filtration needs in the short term and/or long term?
<Mmm, likely of volcanic origin, may or may not have contaminants. Caution advised here.
Bob may input here as well.><<Nothing more than is already posted on WWM>>
Based on your response I plan on either buying 40 lbs live rock from a company like Foster and Smith (any suggestions for a reputable vendor?) or buy the 40lbs local Bali live rock.
<The Bali rock is fine as well as Foster & Smith (reputable etailer), whatever fits into your budget.>
Either way, I plan on adding the 40lbs cretaceous rock to get up to the ~ 1lb per gallon that I need. Just trying to keep costs down! I thought I had everything to start up with, but obviously not. My start up budget is through the roof!
4) My current substrate is 1 inch of Florida crushed coral. Is this acceptable? Should I replace with a certain depth of sand? Mix the sand and crushed coral? If I mix the sand and coral, what is the proper depth?
What would be best?
<I would not mix and would prefer sand. A burrowing wrasse may be in your future and crushed coral is a little too rough for their skin. If a burrowing type wrasse isn't in your future then a
one inch sand bed is fine. Otherwise, at least a three inch depth.>
5) This may be a simple, naive question, but I do not know. In the past I used a python gravel vacuum to perform water changes. I basically vacuumed
the bottom, which sucked up the crushed coral a few inches, while the gunk and detritus continued upwards and were removed from the tank. My concern is if I go to sand, can I still vacuum the bottom or will the sand be sucked up and out? Or, because I am using the sand as my biological filter, should I leave the sand alone and just vacuum within the water column? If I stay with the 1" crushed coral, should I vacuum the bottom or just in the water column?
<Vacuuming the sand bed is a good idea but will require some practice to avoid sucking up sand. I use my thumb/fore finger on the vacuum tube to regulate flow rate to the point where detritus gets removed but very little sand.>
My wife wants this to be a reef tank, but I am a little scared. (Ok, a lot scared) I think we will start off with the foundation live rock and some reef safe fishes. Once I get a handle on this, maybe in the future I would like to try some inverts, additional corals, anemones and supplement with some fancy live rock. Maybe! My wife thinks this is easy, just plop them in the tank and look at them!
<Not extremely difficult but before purchasing any animal, do understand their needs/requirements and
ensure you can provide such.>
6) My current lighting consists of two GE aqua rays, fresh and saltwater, F40T 12 AR FS, 40 Watt bulbs, housed in an All Glass Aquarium standard 48" twin tube aquarium reflector (120 volt, 80 watt, 60 Hz). It came standard with the tank, stand and hood. My question is what type of bulb should I upgrade to if I go to live rock with my set up? I would like to have something adequate for a simple FOWLR/moving towards a reefy type tank sometime in the future. If I go all in on the reef, I could purchase different bulbs in the future.
<Lighting requirements will depend on whether you have any photosynthetic animals on your live rock. If so, your present lighting would be border line at best.
For corals you will need more intense lighting. A four bulb T5 HO system should get the job done for you on your present system. Suggest reading here and related articles found in the header.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/corllgtg.htm>
Whew! That turned out to be kind of long. But once I get these questions answered, I think I can start adding water and get going with some measure of confidence. My next step will be to spend time reading up on reef systems, reef maintenance, corals, inverts, as I currently know nothing about them. I am grateful to have a resource/reference like your website to lean on.
<Yes, read/learn as much as you can before taking the plunge.>
Thanks you so much for your time! I am looking forward to your response.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Have a great day!
Stewart

Expert's help please: Aquarium design in Africa Design assistance needed. 10/26/2010
Good Day,
<Hello Collin>
I'm writing from Namibia in Africa. Small desert country with literally a handful of marine aquarists.
I am planning to install a 2,500lt system with a sump in the basement in my new house.
<That would be a very impressive system once it is built.>
I've printed hundreds of pictures and little plans from the web to try and show the architect and engineer
what I want to done, but this is so hell of a frustrating.
<Do they not understand the drawings, or do they want detailed CAD drawings? Or do they not wish to do the engineering required to install such a system?>
Can you PLEASE give me some contacts that will be able to work of plans and help me putting this set-up successfully together!
<As a North American that has done work in South Africa, I found http://www.afriline.net/  to be very helpful. Using that, I did find one company in South Africa: http://www.aquatic-concepts.co.za/  as well as one online forum: http://www.marineaquariumsa.com/  they may be able to assist.>
<I also found many design firms in the United States you can try and contact as well:
http://www.google.com/webhp?hl=en#sclient=psy&hl=en&safe=off&site=webhp&q=aquarium+designers&aq=f&aqi=g1g-ms1g-m1g-ms1&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=&pbx=1&fp=499faa430ac3503f
>
Will to pay for plans.
<If all you need are CAD drawings, write me back, I may be able to help if you give me some more detail. Sie können auf Deutsch z