Beginner Equipment - 04/28/05
Dear Sir / Madam
I am looking to start my first marine aquarium and am getting confused with all the products available, what is essential and what isn't, I have been to around 5 different aquarium stockists and am being told different things - how do you know who's telling the truth??
<Research my friend you are heading down the right path by asking questions from such a large resource>
Do I need airstones, protein skimmers, air pumps, power heads?? What do these products do and what combinations are best??? 
<These are all very good questions and I am glad to see you are doing your research first. Please look at the FAQs in this section http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/index.htm . That should give you quite a bit of the information you are looking for from others experiences.>
Thanks
Ms Lamb
<No problem.. Good Luck EricS> 

Marine Set Up
Hello,
I want to start a saltwater aquarium and was wondering if you could tell me if what I need to set up is correct, here goes;
36x12x15 tank
Heater and thermometer
Hydrometer
Test kit
SeaClone (HOB) protein skimmer complete with Maxi Jet1200 pump
Crushed coral (2mm)
15kg Cured live Fiji rock
Ocean salt
Light: 20W, 10,000K Fluorescent
And last but not least FISH!!!!
This would be to home four compatible 3" fish (Damsel, Clown, Cardinal). Is there anything else I would need and if not is there anything I should change before purchasing? Any advice you can give would be great. 
<I suggest you read this link. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/.  In the future, could you please cap all the "i's". James (Salty Dog)>

Moving Stuff
About 6 months ago I "inherited" a fish tank when my younger sister got a divorce and stayed with me for a few months. It's a 55 gal. glass tank and I've gotten hooked.
<Glad to welcome you to the hobby.>
Unfortunately, she doesn't know much about the mechanics of it. I've ordered a new 90 gal acrylic tank to replace the leaking glass one and built a larger stand to hold it and the new equipment. I plan to move my existing mini-reef setup into the new tank as soon as practical. The current setup is a Millennium 3000 HOT filter and a HOT protein skimmer from Aquarium Systems. I haven't been able to find any information on the old skimmer and I don't think it's working. Because I'm a computer geek (officially, I'm Manager of Information Technology) I searched the 'net for information on the new setup and I've ordered an Urchin Pro skimmer with the Mag3 pump and Fluval 404 canister filter. I'll be using a 20 gal sump that fills from an overflow in the new tank, drains into a bio-ball chamber, then goes to the protein skimmer chamber and returns to the tank. I pick it all up today. What I'll be transferring is about 50 lbs. of live rock, a powder blue tang, a yellow-eye tang, a yellow leather, three sand stars, a couple of blue-leg crabs, a couple of "loose" anemones, a tomato clown, a couple of bright red (type unknown) starfish, several turbo snails and a large algae snail, a clump of penny alga, a peppermint shrimp, a clump of some kind of rock anemone (type unknown) that looks almost like grass, a couple of sponges and a big ball of some kind of plant that the LFS gave to me as thanks for spending *lots* of money over the last 6 months. They've all been healthy and happy in the current tank and I'd like to make sure they stay that way after I've moved them. My plan is this:
-Set up new tank with new live sand instead of the crappy crushed coral that's in the current tank.
<Good idea>
-Fill it with 10 gals from the existing tank and the rest man-made water.
<ok>
-Seed the sump with one of the filters from the Millennium 3000 in the bio-ball chamber
<Minimally useful in comparison to the live sand.>
-Over the next week, drain 5 gals. of water from the old tank each day and put it in the new tank, replacing it in the old tank with 5 gals. of new man-made water.
<I would do it differently, but this seems ok.>
By the end of the week, the new tank will be running on 45 gals. of the old tank and 30 gals. of fresh water. I'd like to transfer the rock, plants and animals after a week. Is this practical? Should I do one last water change, using the rest of the water in the old tank?
<I would put in the live sand with 10 gallons of old tank water, but nothing else and just drop an airstone and heater in there until you can verify that there is no die-off from the sand, no ammonia or nitrite present. After a while (up to one month, tests will determine), I would remove as much clean water from the old tank as possible and move everybody over to the new tank. Once everyone is in, I would then top-off with new water. That should not take you too long if you have enough buckets, half a day. -Steven Pro>

New 120 w/ Refugium
G'day bob,
<Anthony in Pennsylvania while Bob actually is in Australia!... two very different charmed lives we have>
Hope you are well. I have just finalized plans for a new 120 gall FOWLR that may later down the track house some mushrooms (easier corals).
<very fine>
My brother (a glazier) and I will be building the tank and sump. would you please have a look at what I have planned and I would appreciate your opinion on it.
main tank-120gal,
half inch crushed coral substrate
some base rock that will be covered with l/r. I have a problem here (in Australia I cant find anyone that does bulk supplies of l/r, so I have to get it at about 10 -12 pounds a time (very frustrating) if you know of anyone that does bulk supplies of l/r (150 pounds) in oz would you please let me know.
<you may have already tried this, but if not... there is a great group of folks on the message board at www.ozreef.org that likely can steer you in the direction you'd like to go>
I was going to use it all to cycle the tank.
2 Rio 1700 and 2 rio1100 for movement
<I do like this good strong water movement... this will greatly assist the protein skimmer perform well>
I'm not sure about lighting the main tank yet, I will be using power compacts but not sure about brand (any suggestions)
<in terms of bang for the buck, I'd rather see you go with two 150 watt or two 175 watt halides. The bulbs last longer and stay truer. The fish will look better as well since the MH lamps can penetrate these deeper aquaria>
I'm aiming for about 2 - 3 watts per gallon
<agreed and fair for FO>
I have designed a sump/refugium (I'll send the diagram with this email). Proposed volume at sump water level will be 44gal.
It will have a 6" DSB (nitrate removal)
l/r with Caulerpa
2 300w heaters,
<excellent... not enough aquarists remember to use two heaters for safety and stability of temperature>
thinking of using a rio1700 or larger as a return pump?
<very good... make sure your overflows can handle this>
lights-2 36w 10000k Coralife and 1 40w Coralife actinic.
<id modest lighting is the goal... even one halide will serve you better on a 24" deep tank and you'll also have the perk of getting cool glitter lines only available with the halides>
sump will be fed by dual 1" overflow from main tank
<wow!!! way too small, my friend. I have a Rio 1200 nearly out pumping 4 1" holes at 3.5' of head. You'll need more or larger holes to keep up with that sexy 1700 model>
I am going to incorporate space for bio balls for bio filtration till I can get enough l/r then I will remove them.
<very good idea>
2 queen skimmers in sump powered by Rio 1700's(im using this skimmer on another 120 gal tank and it works a treat) that will pump water over bio balls for the moment. sorry about the long message but your opinion will be greatly appreciated. want to get it right the first time as I hate modifying existing tanks. thanks very much.
<I would rate this set-up very high and well though out. Little changes as per above. Best regards, mate in the beautiful land of Oz. Anthony Calfo>

Hobbyist Needs Help!
Dear Mr. Fenner,
<Steven Pro this holiday weekend.>
First let me say how much I love your book on The Conscientious Marine Aquarist and I am sure I have reread sections of it a hundred times in the last year.
<A great book that does a tremendous service to the hobby/industry.>
I am retired and before retiring I worked for Mobil Oil and traveled the world and dived most of the reefs of the world and decided I needed a little reef at home. I know it is impossible but I started out with a 10 gallon tank and a very light bio load but gave up after 6 months and buying your book.
<Not impossible, but not to be recommended for the beginner.>
I know you do in house education for dealers on the coast because we have been getting livestock from an outlet you spoke at and I just wish you were available in Dallas.
<Anthony & I will probably be traveling to the Dallas/Fort Worth area for MACNA this year. You may also want to consider joining the local marine club. An invaluable educational asset, www.dfwmas.com>
Obviously I am writing because I have a problem and if you will forgive me I am going to copy over a note I sent to an equipment outlet because it will save me a lot of typing and I am disabled and have trouble sitting for long periods of time:
Hi, I just stumbled across your web site and hope I can get some good honest information from you. I have been dealing with what I consider pet stores or outlets and I am not sure they have a clue.
Last Sept I purchased a used 120 gallon marine tank setup manufactured by Oceanic Systems. It has a built in Dutch Filter with two 800 litter power heads and a protein skimmer. Not really sure what the filter
material is, it is in bundles and is like a dry stiff sponge material however it does do an adequate job. The protein skimmer does function correctly and it also has an ozone injector.
<I am familiar with these DAS rolls of filter material and these rather small powerheads. I am not a fan of either. 800 liter/hour is approximately 200 gallons/hour and woefully inadequate. Something around 1200 gallons/hour total would be more appropriate.>
We filled the tank with store purchased artificial salt water (we live in Dallas, TX. Area) and added live sand to approx. 1" and approx. 100 ponds of live rock purchased from the West coast. In a short period
of time we were up and running with good algae growth and nice stable weekly tests so we started adding shrimp, crabs, and snails. After about a month and a half we started adding feather dusters and fish. We
attempted a bubble anemone but it only lasted a week so we decided until we could change out the lighting we wouldn't try them again.
<A good decision.>
By the end of Dec we had three 3" Bannerfish, a three inch Yellow Tang and a Flame angel that had been living in the tank for about a month and a half and my kids decided to get me a Hippo Tang a mated pair of maroon clown fish and a shark egg.
<A good mix up until the shark egg.>
Needless to say within a week of adding these new guys the tank crashed and all fish were dead. After doing a little research I found out that the Hippo had just come into my dealers tank and most likely was the
culprit. There suggestion was to add a UV sterilizer. After discussions with the people who sold me the tank there opinion of UV sterilizes is right up there with Edsels.
<They have their place, but you would be far better served by better filtration in the main tank and a quarantine tank to house new additions for 2-4 weeks prior to their introduction.>
So I did nothing except change out 15 gallons of water per week for the month of Jan and in Feb I started with a Yellow Tang and slowly worked back up to about 6 fish when the tank crashed again. Now my tank dealer
is saying to add a canister filter and after some more research I have discovered that the recommended turnover rate for reef systems which is where I hope to be someday (soft corals not hard) is as much as 20X
per hour or at least 2000 gallons per hour.
<For most fish, soft coral, and LPS tank 10X is more appropriate. For SPS, the 20X figure is more accurate.>
I am willing to try whatever makes sense and I see where you have a canister system which if I am reading it correctly will do 1200 gph which added to the 1600 litters I am currently running should do the trick. I am also willing to change out my power heads with
higher capacity heads if you think that will work with the Dutch filter.
<More economical and just as effective to change the powerheads to something in the 600 gph range, each.>
I would also like your honest assessment of UV systems are they a beneficial add on?
<A proper quarantine tank is much better, more effective. Do archive the WWM site using the Google search function for more on quarantine tanks.>
Look forward to your thoughts and recommendations, after we find this answer lighting is next<G>
<Definitely willing to help/guide more after you address your current problems.>
I would greatly appreciate any help or guidance you could provide and let me know when you are doing a new release on your book. I have plans to enlarge to a 72"X30"X24" system sometime in the near future so
that I can have the room to build both a live rock structure and an open area for bottom dwellers.
<It is interesting how addictive this hobby is. Everyone is eventually setting up another tank or upgrading to something larger. -Steven Pro>
Edna & Dennis

The Aquarist Formerly known as... 
Bob (Oh wise one)
<now known as "Oh Tan one", Anthony Calfo in your service>
Have a 35 gal reef tank been up for over a year looks good. Went out and bought from a friend 135gal Oceanic reef ready tank. Along with the tank came an Amiracle Pro-line sump Model 3000 with dual Venturi skimmer setup and a Little Giant pump Model
2MDQX-SC (640 GPH 1" inlet 1" outlet). Some questions: Can I turn the sump into a refugium 
<if you like... but only if you have a goal or purpose to justify the complication (want nitrate control, zooplankton production, pH stability on RDP cycle, etc)>
and if so should I leave the skimmer setup the same or incorporate my Berlin skimmer? 
<personally I don't care for the brand/performance of either. But if you can easily get a dark coffee like cup of skimmate out of either or both daily.. more power to you. Please do>
I have two RIO 2100 pumps should I run these as my water return to each of the overflows or can I run the Little Giant and T my plumbing?
<teed plumbing is generally a lot of aggravation and problematic. I would almost always recommend two pumps so long as heat/electricity are not borderline issues. Anthony>
Thanks greatly for any help, Jim

A Bad Situation
Dear Mr. Fenner,
<Steven Pro this afternoon.> I would like to thank you for all the great articles in FAMA as they have helped me with my reef tank.
<Yes, Bob does a tremendous service to the hobby and industry by sharing his vast wealth of knowledge.>
The question I have for you is not about my tank though. A friend of mine has been taken advantage of badly by a LFS and I'm trying to help him out. He was new to the hobby, paralyzed in a wheelchair and this guy seen him coming so he just took him for everything he could. Sold him about 6 or 700.00 of supposedly LR that was anything but. Some of it looks like it may have been LR at one time and the rest of it who knows what it is or where it's been. All I know is it looks completely dead. No coralline algae, no tube worms, dusters, nothing. Just massive amounts of hair algae. He's had numerous fish and other organisms, some have lived, many have not. Many Tangs, Firefish, crabs, clowns, and whatever else I don't even know. First he set him up with a UG filter
<An ok system for some of the hardier creatures, just requires more maintenance than other methodologies.>
and later changed to a sump w/ skimmer, overflow, and chiller.
<A much better system. Does he have a lot of high intensity light requiring the chiller, or live in a warm place with no AC, or was this more profit motivated. A nice piece of equipment either way.>
He is adding all these supplements because he believes he has a reef and I think he is just poisoning the system and feeding all the algae.
<Yes, more likely than not.>
The first thing I did was to tell him to stop adding the chemicals altogether immediately.
<Good>
Then I pulled as much algae out as I could.
<Also good>
Next I told him to do about a 10% water change; didn't want to do too much because he still has some animals living in there. I'm going back over there today to pull some more algae, and check some water parameters.
<Please respond with all the test results you have and include the actual numerical numbers.>
I realize this is long, but needed to give you some background, and still left a lot out.
<No, better to be thorough.>
Now the ?'s. What direction and how do I proceed from here?
<First tell us what he has now as far as livestock and what he is interested in keeping. Also, size of the tank, lighting system, and some more specifics on the filtration (models, etc.)>
Rob Sellers, Marinette, Wis.
<Will be waiting to hear from you. -Steven Pro>

Fwd: Project Reef Capable
> Dear Aquarium Supplier:
> Hello, I am Barbara Davis with Project Reef
> Capable. I am writing to you today to let you know who we are and what we are trying to accomplish.  Three years ago my husband David was injured in a car accident and suffered a severe spinal cord injury. He is now a paraplegic. David used to keep marine fish and has always wanted to start another aquarium. Being on Social Security Disability, this was out of the budget. On a visit to a local saltwater store to browse, the owner talked with David for a while and decided to help us out. He donated a 120 gallon all glass aquarium. He suggested we contact some of the companies in the trade and see if we might get some help. Well, it has snowballed and we have received a lot of support. The project has evolved and after we set up David's Aquarium, we plan on encouraging others like him to participate as well. With support from: Dennis Hipp/Tenecor Jeff Katz/Aquarium Lighting Andy/Flying Fish Express Ken/Marine Depot Todd Santora/Global Aquarium Supply Betsey/CaribSea Ted/Reef Geek Andy/IceCap Jack/e.tropicals and many more. There is now a website www.reefcapable.com where we will track the project. There are articles to be written for TFC magazine. This is now a project that will keep David occupied, and help others. We even have someone to come set up and maintain the tank!! But we still needs several key pieces: Calcium Reactor. UV Sterilizer Sump Pumps and Powerheads. Heater Additives. Test kits Chiller Controllers Corals and fish Skimmer We are looking for scratch and dent or brand new items. We know it is a lot to ask, but you would be making someone's dream come true, to be useful and involved in this wonderful hobby. All contributors will be listed on the website (Which is up) and in any articles published. Thank you and God bless, Barbara Davis Project Reef Capable www.reefcapable.com 2624 Sweetbay Drive Ofallon, MO. 63366<Will post. Bob F>

Set-up questions
Hi Bob/WWM Crew,
<Cheers, David... noticed you were from Kittaning. Steve and I are from Pittsburgh and the PMASI club. Gotta get you down to some meetings and meet you! (www.pmas.org)>
I enjoy reading the FAQ's and the responses. I continue to educate myself on the hobby.
<excellent...do continue to learn and share>
I currently have a 30 gal fish w/ LR tank that is doing well. My ultimate/long term goal is a 120 gal reef tank. I am very skeptical on setting up a 120 where we currently live because of the weight (and my wife bought me a 55 gal). We live in a very old second floor flat and I cannot provide any additional structural support to the floor.
<still likely fine... orient the tank perpendicular to the joists (parallel with the visible floorboards). This tank will not be any worse than a water bed or the kitchen appliances (fridge/freeze, stove, etc)>
So we have opted at this time to set up the 55 gal reef. I am purchasing equipment/gear with the 120 in mind. I will be setting up the 55 gal using LR/LS and have purchased to date a Berlin Turbo protein skimmer,
<hmmm... look at other models too if going reef. Euroreef would be top shelf choice.. Aqua C also very good>
a CPR Continuous Siphon Overflow (800 gph),
<don't even take an overflow for free.. have the tank drilled, please>
a 400 gph and a 270 gph power sweep powerheads - both for internal tank water movement and a Quiet One return pump (this may be weak for the 120)
<actually not durable for long-term saltwater applications according to many aquarists. Ceramic shaft or mag drive models are better suited for seawater>
My first question concerns lighting. I am planning on purchasing a Custom Sealife fixture that has two 175 watt / 10,000K MH and two 65 watt power compacts. (Thinking long term for the 120) For a 55 gal - is this too much lighting?
<not at all.. especially if you like sps coral and clams>
If so, my thought would be to just unscrew and remove one of the MH. I will have a clear glass canopy but am concerned about corrosion. Is my concern legitimate and if so, is there any type of "cap" you are aware of, or I could manufacture, to keep the corrosion out of the end caps of the removed MH?
<don't bother unscrewing it... leave unplugged if separate ballasts>
My second questions concerns plumbing of the 55 gal. I will be using a 10 gal aquarium for my sump. The sump will be located in another room, right behind the tank location and about a foot down. Estimated total run length will be about 3 feet. Space, noise and accessibility to the sump are the main reasons for putting the sump/gear in this location. It appears I will have three "turns" to/from the tank and sump. Would I be better off using flex tubing from the tank to the sump as opposed to schedule 40 PVC?
<not a necessary expense or durable for such a short run... just use "soft" elbows>
Also, could/would/should flex tubing be used for the return line from the sump to the tank?
<hard plumbed lines are generally better in the long run. Just plan it well in advance to know what you want>
I sincerely appreciate your thoughts and input on my plans.
Thanks in advance!! David Kittanning, PA
<do visit the folks in Pittsburgh... we can arrange a visit to some great local tanks including a killer 500 gallon reef to show you various plumbing, lights, etc. Best regards, Anthony>

My New Tank
Dear Bob:
<Anthony Calfo in your service>
I just purchased a 60 gallon acrylic flatback hex aquarium. I was special ordered and won't arrive for 5 weeks. My question is this.....the LFS man is going to wire a retro light into the canopy which will give me 2-10,000K daylight and 2-7100K actinic watts of PC lighting. Will this be enough light for LR and soft corals? 
<yes, likely... keep most coral in the top 12-18" of the tank and you'll be fine>
I also had them put the overflow on the left-hand corner (like the Oceanic reef ready I used to have) instead of the center of the tank for aquascaping purposes. Will this be okay in regard to circulation?
<little difference...fine>
I'm planning on having a remora skimmer 60+ pounds of LR and 2 inch deep sand bed. 
<personally I'd add more sand (over 3") if you want good denitrification>
There will be no mechanical filtration other than a piece of filter to change in the 20-gallon sump once in a while and the sponge in the overflow to rinse out. No carbon, unless needed. 
<If you want to keep corals alive you will need to use carbon or some other chemical filtration VERY regularly to prevent the buildup of dissolved organics that slightly reduce water clarity (yellowing agents) but dramatically reduce light penetration...especially since you won't be using metal halides>
The LFS guy is going to use a RIO 2600 for circulation. Does this set-up seem okay to you? 
<remains to be seen after rockscape is complete... the more flow the better if nicely random turbulent (not laminar)>
I'm hoping this will be a pretty tank when set up. All I saw was a picture in a brochure......thanks for your help in advance! Janey
<best regards with your beautiful tank! Anthony Calfo>

Re: My New Tank
<always welcome, my friend. Anthony>
Dear Anthony:
Thank you for the quick reply and the information you shared with me.....I
will increase the depth of the sandbed as you advised, and remember your
suggestion about the use of carbon. I really appreciate your sharing your
expertise we me! Your fishy friend, Jane:)

Discount Gear Search
Good afternoon Anthony/Steven,
I've picked up that you and Steven are in Pitt right?
<Yes>
I am officially starting my quest for a big tank (300gall). You guys recommend anyone online or know of any discount places I could call/check out?
<Not really. I would check the various trade magazines, TFH, FAMA, Aquarium Fish, etc., for ads/specials. You could also check out AquaBid.com and E-Bay for used ones.>
I'm on Long Island and I work in NYC. I'm going to try searching all the "used" options first, if I can't find one (which I don't think I will) I'm going to look for the best deal on a new tank. I've read acrylic is better for larger tanks?
<They both have their pros and cons.>
Thank so much guys. Rick
PS...You're right Anthony, I did jinx myself with that Levi Angel comment.
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Re: [SDMAS] Possibly selling equipment (marine set-up)
Hello Mike; Before you start to spending money here & there, invest in a
good book 20.00 to 30.00 dollars, it will save you a lot of money, wasted
time and heart ache !!!! Try this title highly recommended by the SDMAS i.e.: The Conscientious Marine Aquarist by Robert Fenner . What you'll be doing is laying down a good foundation for the basics of this hobby and a good starting point for you. Also check out a few websites; SDMAS.org , Wet Web Media.com, join your locale Marine Club. Information is the key for making it long term in the hobby and ENJOYING it as you go!
Take Care,  Maurice B.
<Couldn't agree more... shame-faced (like the Crab?), Bob Fenner>

New marine tank setup
Hi Bob
<Anthony Calfo in your service>
I'm planning on setting up a new marine tank and I wanted to get your
opinion on the components that I had planned on buying. I have not
purchased anything as of yet, so if you feel that I need to change any of these items, please give me any input you may have.
I had a marine tank about 10 years ago and ran it for about 6 years... but that was about 10 years ago; so I feel like a newbie again with the hobby.
<yes, I recall... it is an entirely different hobby now>
I plan to start out as a fish only tank and eventually graduating to a reef system at a later time. 
<For what its worth... reefs are easier, and only more expensive because you can put more corals in a given tank than you can fish in the same>
I also plan to have the tank located on the first floor in a "sun room" and maintain all of the filtering equipment in the basement one floor below the tank.
<outstanding... there is nothing as good as natural sunlight for fish and invertebrate coral and health>
Location The tank will be located in a "sunroom" that my wife is having added to the house, and I have two concerns. First, what problems will there be with direct sunlight on part of the tank? 
<sunlight doesn't cause algae... nutrients cause algae. My coral tanks in my greenhouse were in full sun and after five years without scraping algae on three sides of the tank you could nearly still read a newspaper through it. This is rare only because most people overfeed, overstock and/or don't have an efficient protein skimmer (or two) on the tank.>
The second question has nothing to do with the hobby, but rather construction of the room... the foundation in the sunroom will be 6-8 inches of concrete with wire reinforcement. I figured that the tanks total weight will be about 3,800 lbs. Should I request a thicker/stronger foundation? (hey I figured I would ask you first :-))
<Most likely not necessary, but the extra charge for reinforced concrete per cubic yard is actually quite reasonable and may be worth your peace of mind>
The tank is an acrylic tank from Tenecor at a size of 96x30x30. I want to view the tank on both sides and planed on having the return on the left side of the tank. Is this wise, or should I keep in located in the center?
<nope... on a short end wall is fine if the aesthetics suit you... will not affect tank performance>
Skimmer I have read about various brands being the best, but I would like your input about what brand/technology works best. (Tunze, Euro Reef, TMC, ETSS...)
<I'd put money on one each of the first two. Alternating cleaning schedules for two skimmers on a given tank provides superb and nearly uninterrupted skimmate production>?
Sump I'm looking to support fish only today, but plan to migrate to a reef system later. What do you recommend?
<the biggest empty vessel that you can afford to put in>
Lighting I was planning on purchasing the canopy from Tenecor, but I was told that there are other companies that produce better lighting systems. Any suggestions?
<agreed... hands down, the best all purpose lighting with regard for "bang for the buck" (suiting inverts too down the road) is an Iwasaki 6500K Halide bulb. These bulbs have a useful lifespan of 2-5 years unlike the 10, 14 and 20K alternatives at half as much or less. Find a canopy with this brand bulb that suits you>
Pumps: One of the pumps will need to return the water from the basement filtering system to the tank at a total height of about 12 feet, will that pose any problems? 
<nope...numerous pumps designed for this head pressure easily. Look at Japanese made Iwaki's for your best long term solution. Tried and true. Dirt cheap to run (energy efficient)>
I was also told to look at pumps made for pools rather then for tanks. Is this a true statement?
<it is an obscenely false statement. Short life and a shameful waste of electricity. Somebody had a pool pump to sell you.. hehe. Read the specs on the pump. It will curl your hair!>
Thanks for any input you could provide to me.-BobB
<good luck, my friend. And enjoy the pleasure of creation. I have set up numerous tanks like yours and it is a magical process to bring it to fruition. Kindly, Anthony>

Re: marine set-up
Hi again!
<Salute, Thanassis. Anthony>
Finally my ammonia is dropped to 0.0, so now I can sleep calmly... Thanks for the support and useful advice!
<very glad to hear it...you are welcome>
Following your advice I am considering of giving the Odonus Niger back to my dealer. He has accepted it and he proposed that I get two blue-spotted damsels
<too aggressive>
or alternatively an Apolemichthys xanthotis, 3 1/2 inches. 
<beautiful fish.. be sure you see it eating well in the store first. We do not see this fish in America very often>
The Angelfish has double to price of the Niger, so I will pay the price
difference, but this is ok., I like much better the angelfish. What is your opinion about this fish? Is it o.k. to put it in my aquarium with the other 3 fishes I have?  Is it a hardy fish? I have not much info , may be it is not
a very trade-able fish, this is why it not much written about it.
<I have some concerns that it may not be hardy enough... the genera it belongs to does not have the greatest reputation in captivity. If you like angels, a mid sized Pomacanthus species would be much more hardy>
Do you believe that during the introduction of a new fish it is a good idea to put the fish into the aquarium with a "separator" (I have ordered a piece of glass with small holes for water circulation, which can divide the aquarium into two rooms) ? If yes, for how long? Some hours or some days?
<I fear that it impedes proper water flow and filtration and does more harm than good. I merely like to add fish with subdued lighting or lights off and do something to the seascape (add or change rocks around to distract established fishes>
In case I buy a wet-dry filter , would it be good to continue working with both filters -old and new- ? 
<yes... for a few weeks>
What capacity should the wet-dry filter have?
<5-10% tank volume in gallons of bio-ball media. For example, a one hundred gallon aquarium would need 5 to 10 gallons of bio-ball media in the filter to work well>
Regards and thanks again. Thanassis
<very welcome my friend. Anthony>

Help??? (marine set-up)
Hello,
My name is Kelly and I need some advise from you on setting up my
saltwater reef tank. I have purchased (2) Heaters, (2) penguin 550 Power Heads, (1) Magnum 350 Canister Filter, (1) Excalibur Venturi Skimmer, (1) U.V. Sterilizer 25Watt (Sealife), (40 lbs) Aragomite/Reef Sand, and about ( 30) of Fiji Live Rock. What my question is I have a 55 Gallon Tank that I am converting over from a fish only tank to a reef tank. This is all the equipment that I have as of right now. I understand that I am going to need more live rock, and a better lighting system. What else do you recommend such as a trickle filter system, Lighting, and other products that I might need to get my system looking very nice and eventually moving up to a 150 gallon tank and moving some of this equipment over to the bigger tank. I am going to use my 55 gallon as a hospital tank in the future. So if you could give me some advise to see if the fish store is telling the correct things that I need so I don't buy things that I don't need.
Thank You, Kelly L. Sullivan
<Lighting needed depends on the desired animals to be kept. Decide as specifically as possible what corals interest you and we can help you decide on an appropriate lighting plan. My recommendations other than lighting for your current 55; about another 30 pounds of rock, more sand to bring it up to a depth of 4", and a RO unit. I would have your 150 drilled or purchased with an overflow box (non-siphon). You will also need a bigger skimmer for the 150. -Steven Pro>

Re: Live rock II (marine set-up)
Gia sou Anthony!
<Gia sou, Thanassis!>
<<What is your filtration and fish load again per tank size?>>
My aquarium is 210 lit and I have 4 fishes:
- one Damsel - 3 years in the aquarium
- one Acanthurus Lineatus or Clown Tang - 4 months - 3 1/2 inches
- one Paracanthurus Hepatus or Blue Tang- 3 months 2 1/2 inches
- one Odonus Niger (Blue) 1 month 2 1/2inches
I use an external Eheim power filter (600 lit/hour) with bio-stars and Eheim "EHFI SUBSTRAT" + sponge. I also have an internal Eheim 1-cartridge filter. I replace its sponge cartridge for thee days a month by an Eheim carbon-cartridge in order to achieve some chemical filtration. I have an internal counter-current skimmer and a power head for extra water circulation. 
<your biological filtration is somewhat modest for long term plans. Eheim brand is quite good and reliable, it is just that submerged media only with growing marine fish can be quite limiting. Do consider buying or building a wet/dry trickle filter for the future>
Well, as you write, the cleaning of the corals was done at the same day that I changed the sponge in the cartridge filter with the carbon cartridge. This could be the reason...? 
<yes...easily so. Filter components should only be rinsed in a separate bucket of seawater (never fresh tap water) like the old exchanged water just siphoned out of the aquarium to be drained away. And even then, you never want to change or rinse multiple components on the same day.. you lose too much good bacteria and that is why the water chemistry spikes. Alternate times when bags and cartridges are rinsed or changed>
This morning I checked the level of Ammonia and now it has dropped: it is between 1.5 and 0,25 mg/lit in the Tetra test kit, so I suppose it might be at about 0.8 mg/lit. 
<better>
However I was a little stressed and I added some of the Sera liquid named "Nitrivec". 
<no harm indeed>
As you write it may be loss of money (in fact it is quite cheap), but I wanted to do something that might help the situation. 
<understood and agreed>
Is there anything else I can do to speed up the drop of Ammonia? (In the mean time I fed lightly, as you advised me, which made the fishes almost jump to take the food out of my fingers!).
<not much more to do short of extra water changes>
One more question: What is really the best and more effective way to drop Nitrate? I read the book "the conscientious..." and I am a little confused. Is it live rock??? In case of deep sand bed which kind of sand should be used and how many inches?
<rock helps but deep sand is better. Sugar fine grade more than 3 inches deep gives results within weeks but does require some extra labor and investment in creatures to stir the sand and help to keep it clean (detritivores)>
Last question: My lights are 12 months old and my retailer told me today that they should be total ineffective because they are too old and that I should buy new ones, the so-called "actinic": one white and one blue colour. 
<yes...sounds like good advice. I like the color combination and agree that fluorescent bulbs over 10 months old are very poor for invertebrates>
Have you heard about this kind of lights? What do you think as the best type of light that I should buy? (I have space in my corner for two 60 cm fluorescent lights).
Well , that is enough for today (may be even too much !)
<not at all...my pleasure. Kindly, Anthony>
Regards, Thanassis

More starter questions
OK, OK, I know I'm driving you crazy. Believe me I'm not just asking for your advice. I'm reading like crazy but can never seem to find a straight answer. A few more questions . . .
1. We added 60 lbs of the bioactive life aragonite reef sand tonight (the stuff you buy at the fish store). We have a 90 gallon tank. It doesn't seem like enough substrate. Can we add just regular "dead" sand now to make more depth? Will the live sand we have in there "seed" it??
<Yes and yes. Keep the depth at under 1" or 4+".>
2. I've read some bits and pieces about feeding the live sand ammonia. DO I need to do that??
<No>
3. Are there differences between live sand and this bioactive live aragonite reef sand stuff we bought??
<Different sources of live sand will have different critters in them.>
4. We turned off the filter (we have a sump and protein skimmer, not a wet/dry, we plan on cycling with LR) to place the aragonite, then turned it back on once we had the sand in. I couldn't find anywhere if we should leave the protein skimmer on. I used my best judgment and said yes. Was that correct??
<Yes>
5. The aragonite that we got had some wood chip looking stuff in it. It has all seemed to accumulate to one side of the tank in a tornado looking thing. Should we net that stuff out??
<Yes>
6. How long can we leave the bioactive live aragonite reef sand in the tank by itself?
<As long as you wish.>
We may not be able to add the live rock for a few weeks because our LFS may not have any that's fully cured and I don't want to buy uncured even though it's a brand new set up. Is this OK??
<You could purchase uncured and cure it yourself.>
Ultimately, how long does the rock need to be fully cured, 2-4 weeks at the FS right??
<Possibly longer. When ammonia and nitrite have gone up and returned to zero, it is fully cured.>
Thanks again for all of your help. I appreciate every second of your
precious time. PS our temp in about 75, pH between 8.2 and 8.4, and spec. grav. 1.022 these are good right??
<Temp could be a little higher, say 78.>
Thanks again, Katie
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Fish Filters and Rocks oh my.
Dear Mr. Fenner, Mr. Calfo, or Mr.. 
<In that order, that would make me Moe-stooge...Anthony Calfo in your service>
Thank you for your great insight on my inquiries in the past. I have really enjoyed and learned much from your responses. Now on two the badgering :) I will be converting a 50 gallon curved glass freshwater to a sort of budget FO. If I use live rock what is the minimum amount of lighting required, 
<really just aesthetic preference when not keeping symbiotic invertebrates. A two bulb VHO system the length of the tank (36", or 48"?)will be fine with two daylight bulbs or balanced blue heavy with an actinic if you enjoy the color>
and minimum poundage to keep it functioning well? (50lb minimum)
I am willing to oust for a compact hood since a simple strip light most likely wont suffice, but I thought I'd run it by you. 
<a PC equivalent fixture would be fine>
Also if I employ live rock would my UG with the power head in reverse still be a benefit to the system, or should I forgoes it all together? 
<not trendy by modern standards but if you have had success running it in the past with your husbandry...OK. It will work best if the reverse flow water is pre-filtered first>
I was going to continue to use my Aquaclear 300, with two different density foam pads and carbon. 
<very fine...clean alternately>
Coupled with either a remora c hang on or a CPR back back, depending on your recommendations. 
<lots of good feedback on the CPR from folks although I prefer a bigger/badder unit like a Euroreef or Tunze>
These are two you seem to recommend on the sight, which is more geared to a system of my size 
<Tunze's are all sizes and idiot proof (with all due respect <G>)... one of the lowest maintenance skimmers on the market (very easy to adjust with a static sump or display water level>
is harder for me to figure out. Do you think this filtration is sufficient for long term fish health?
<yes...fine with small to medium fish. The tank is too small for large fish anyway>
I would also like to run my stocking plan by you if its not to much trouble, this will allow you to judge my filtration better. Due to the size of the system I will buy small and raise. If you have any recommendations for fish that would fit into this environment better please do so, I have also tried to provide two choices of fishes I would greatly like to include to run by your expertise. I value your opinions greatly. 1 small blue jaw trigger or tasseled file fish, 1 small purple or Atlantic blue tang, 
<all way to big as adults for the tank...although the trigger may be the best of them and slowest growing>
1 small long nose or black back butterfly,
<better choices for size but not good with popular and active community fish>
a mimic blenny, and possibly a few other very small fish, such as a pair
of black ray shrimp gobies and maybe a starfish or two. 
<OK>
Please be brutally honest, I want to provide un-cramped quarters for these fish for 2 to three years before I trade them in or move them to my larger tanks.
<alas.. most of the fish you mention get extraordinarily large or just don't fit in (the butterflies)... do find some other fish to consider>
I apologize for the length of this letter, I was just doing as your book says by being thorough and planning through. I've done research, I'm just
not so sure as to how these species react to a smaller tank even as
small specimens. Thanks so very much, your friend Brian.
<very wise, good sir... keep studying and learning and pass your knowledge along. Kindly, Anthony>

Re: Fish Filters and Rocks oh my.
Thanks for the info Anthony, super quick response time. You must have good reflexes. 
<yep...that's why I play the catcher position in baseball/softball. I'm like a cat...hehe. Oh, yeah... and the fact that I can't field fly balls <G>>>
Anyhow if its not to a bother, (if it is my friend feel free to just discard this letter) Would the UG be beneficial to such a system? If not I'd rather not deal with it lol. 
<agreed. I'm not thrilled with it either. It can actually be a fine filter...but is too labor intensive for me. I'd rather see you build/buy a good trickle filter for fish only systems or buy more live rock for a reef system>
Also Could you possibly suggest any trigger that may be better then the blue jaw for this setup?
<Niger Odonus (the red-tooth trigger) are peaceful, albeit shy, essentially reef safe and a bit smaller/slower growing. Really, I have no serious gripe about the blue jaw other than adult size>
(I do plan on exporting these larger growing fish to either my 110 FO
or my 300 reef or my 110 reef) Hit me with some of your favorite medium
species of yours just so I have an idea and am on the same page!
Thank you again for your time.
<Will do... Genicanthus angels (many species...all peaceful and very underrated), most Centropyge angels (C. multicolor is magnificent in person if you have some money to burn...never captured in photos well), numerous wrasse species, some Heniochus (wimple fish), barber fish, marine Bettas, footballers (incredibly hardy!!!)...Best regards, Anthony>
Your friend Brian

New Tank (expensive water, much more... re set-up)
Hello, I've written a couple of times now but the exciting has finally happened!! We got our 90 gallon tank yesterday and have it up and running today (after some sweat trying to figure out the filter!) We let the fresh water (we bought 100 gallons of distilled water from Wal-Mart, what a sight!)
<Awfully expensive and heavy to carry home. You might want to take a look at purchasing your own RO unit to make your own purified water source. Besides, RO water is better than distilled.>
circulate for about 8 hours and inspected for leaks. (If you can't tell I purchased your book, love it!) Then we added a bag and half of instant ocean. We plan on letting that circulate for at least 24 hours. Our set up includes an all glass 90 gallon tank with overflow, a sump, protein skimmer, and one power head (the skimmer has it's own power head). OK, here come my questions.
1. Should the protein skimmer be off while we circulate the salt in the water? ( I thought I read something of the sort but I'm a little confused.)
<You can turn it on as it will help to increase and maintain high levels of dissolved oxygen, but it should not really collect anything.>
2. We're going to be using live sand (bioactive live aragonite) and live rock. We got 3-10 LB bags of the aragonite sand for the substrate. Our problem is, we're going to add the sand once the pH, salinity, and temp are norm (hopefully tomorrow) but then we may not be able to add the live rock for a week or so. Will that be OK, or should be hold off on adding the sand until we can add the live rock?? Then once we add the live rock (planning 100 lbs. cured) we're going to cycle the tank with that.
<You can add the sand and then later add the rock. This is better than vice versa, because the sand is going to cloud your water for awhile.>
3. In the meantime we're going to have a 10 gallon quarantine tank cycling with damsels.
<Please just use one damsel if that. Better to put a sponge filter in the main tank while rock cycling and move the sponge filter over to the quarantine tank after.>
So according to your book, once we cycle the main tank with the live rock (2 to 4 weeks) we should add about 40-50 snails and a few hermits to pick at the algae that may be growing?? Do I need to quarantine the snails and hermits and if so should I put them in the quarantine tank with the damsels right away so the algae doesn't get out of control??
<You can put the snails in the main tank with quarantining. Follow the acclimation procedures outline here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimat.htm>
4. What are the essential elements in a test kit that we need to buy?? I don't want to buy a kit that tests for too few things or too many. I want to get what I need at one time.
<Critical tests for the beginning are pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, Specific Gravity, and Temperature. Then depending on what you do, Calcium and Alkalinity maybe needed.>
OK, I think that's it for my beginning questions. I'm sure I'll have many more. Thank you so much for your time and energy. You'll be a great resource for us!! Thank you so much. Katie
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Live rock (marine system set-up, maintenance)
Hi Bob!
<Thanassis... Anthony Calfo here again. If you will be kind enough to teach me a polite greeting in Greek, I'll be sure to use it in reply <smile>>
I really enjoy reading your book (the conscientious...). I received it some days ago from Amazon.co.uk and I find it really useful.
<excellent book indeed>
As I wrote you before, I have a 210 liters fish-only tank with an Odonus Niger, one Paracanthurus Hepatus, one Damsel and one Acanthurus Lineatus. I have some questions:
1. Would it be good to add some live rock that I will buy from my dealer ? 
<an excellent investment if it is fully cured and stable>
The Lineatus is eating everything green in the aquarium, including the green lettuce I offer almost every day. In case he eats all the green of the live rock is it worth to buy one or not? 
<yes.. very much so. An incomparable food source>
I also think it as a solution to my high Nitrate (100 mg/l). What is your advice?
<not really so much... a deep sand bed (3+") would be better, or more frequent water changes>
2. My Odonus Niger (2 1/2 inch) is trying to hit the damsel and saw today half of a fin missing. Should I quarantine the Damsel? However the Damsel does not hide at all. it eats regularly .
<hmmmm... aggression that lasts longer than three days with new fish usually doesn't abate. Do quarantine>
3. Three days ago I noticed a mark on the side of the Lineatus (4 inch). It seemed like he has been attacked by the Niger. I see them fighting many times , but just for second, and the Lineatus deems to be stronger. Do I have to worry?
<same as above... and Niger triggers usually are more peaceful. It looks like your trigger did not read the same books that we did <wink>>
4. My Blue Tang (2 1/2 inch) is a very clever fish and escapes easily from the sudden attacks of the Niger, especially when he get close to the "home" of the Niger (he has a hole on a rock as "home").
The Niger was the last one in the aquarium , and I was told that he is calm and peaceful. Mine is not at all...
<yes...agreed. I would consider trading him for another one>
5. My ammonia suddenly went up to 1.5 after some small pieces of lettuce were floating on the water surface . 
<the lettuce alone would not cause a jump this high... do investigate further>
I took the out but within half an hour the same thing happened. I do not know where they come from (perhaps the Niger took some piece of lettuce in his cave and it slowly began to dissolve...?). I made a 10% water change 3 days ago and today I made another 10%. 
<yes... very good. Do as often as necessary>
Tomorrow I will check again my ammonia. In the meantime I did not feed today the fishes. I am considering not to feed them until ammonia drops to 0.0. 
<no sir.. the feeding is not the problem. Do feed at least lightly and figure out if there is a filtration problem or a lot of trapped organic material in the system somewhere>
How long can they stay without food? Will the Niger be more nervous if hungry?
<towards a week (4-5 days) with no trouble at all... but again, not the solution.>
Thanks again and best regards,
<with kind regards, one of your American friends, Anthony Calfo>
Thanassis, your Greek friend

Re: Cycling Question
Thanks so much for answering my question. I have two more follow up
question. 1) Can you give any specific suggestions for what types of
snails, crabs, cucumbers, starts, etc and how many of each for a 125. 
<Mmm, sorry to be coming into this conversation en media res (the middle of things)... what sort of set-up, other organisms do you intend to keep? Are you interested in culturing any of these? In general I am not a big fan of using any of these animals for "clean-up"... Please read over the posted materials on WetWebMedia.com re these groups, the terms "sand-sifting", "algae control"...>
2) This question should help with the first: I am seeing what looks to me like red grass growing on the rock. It is only on some of the rocks. Is this
bad? Also, some of the rocks are sprouting green stuff that is thicker than
the red stuff, and kind of looks like buds on a tree. Any clue? What can I
do about this if it is bad. Thanks again!
<Get thee to WWM re algae... starting here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/algaeconMar.htm on out to the many links.
Bob Fenner>

Re: Setting up a new tank
Hello, It's Katie again. Thanks for responding so quickly. I really
appreciate it. A couple more questions. What do you mean by not being able to grow macroalgae in the tank?
<Your tangs will eat this algae faster than it can grow and will stop it from getting a foothold.>
What is that?
<Macroalgae are algae that resemble true plants. You can begin your education here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/MarInd5of6.htm>
Is it important?
<Can be useful as decoration and nutrient control.>
Do you think we'll be ok with a sump and no other wet/dry filter?
<Yes, provide enough circulation. Ten times your tank volume per hour or more. Example 100 gallon tank needs 1000 gph or more.>
We will have a protein skimmer. But since we may have fish that pick at the live rock will the rock not provide enough filtration and will we require a wet/dry?
<The fish will not eat the beneficial bacteria, which is the filtration that you speak of.>
Sorry for all of the questions. I just want everything to go smoothly when we start this stuff up. We're starting on Saturday!! Yikes! Thanks, Katie
<I strongly urge you to read as much of the WWM site as possible and read Bob's "Conscientious Marine Aquarist". It will give you a strong basic education in marine husbandry. -Steven Pro>

Setting up a new tank
Hello, I just found your site today. Very informative. Anyway, my husband and I just purchased (didn't even receive yet) a 90 gal. tank that we plan on setting up for a marine aquarium. I've been doing lots and lots of research so it's done right!! It was suggested that we do live sand and rock to cycle the tank. We're going to have a protein skimmer and a sump. 100 lbs live rock. We are also going to be setting up a quarantine tank at the same time so it can cycle as well. I have a few questions though. We are planning on mainly a fish tank, no coral at the moment. Will the fish eat all the live
rock and turn it to dead rock?? (We're planning on a flame angel, copperband butterfly, emperor or queen angel, and maybe a purple and a yellow tang). I know that the angel's and butterfly's are notorious for eating the live rock inhabitants. Will they actually destroy our live rock?? We need it since we're not going to have a wet/dry filter right . . . I'm all new at this but trying hard!!
<The fish you listed will eat off of the live rock, but will not eat everything. You probably will not be able to grow any macroalgae in the main display.>
Also, do we wait until the tank is fully cycled before adding snails, crabs, and shrimp?
<Yes, wait until tank is cycled prior to any additions.>
Can we add them all at one time (meaning snails, crabs and shrimp)?
<Yes>
Do we really need like 40 snails and 40 crabs?
<40 snails sounds ok, but I would not want that many hermits. No more than half a dozen.>
What are the good shrimp to get??
<Any of the cleaner shrimp, genus Lysmata.>
Dumb question, but do we need to feed the live rock while it's cycling our tank?
<No>
And lastly, how do we cycle our quarantine tank?
<I prefer to keep a sponge filter in my sump and move that over to the quarantine tank when needed.>
Do we put live rock in there too?
<No, best to leave devoid a calcium based decorations because of potential use of medications.>
Do we need decor in the quarantine tank or just like one cave like structure for a hiding place?
<Inert hiding structures like short sections of PVC pipe.>
Curiously yours, Katie
<Welcome to the club. -Steven Pro>

Lighting, etc.
Thanks for your help on my sump questions. If you would indulge me, I have a couple of further questions:
I just received my new Hamilton MH fixture with two 175 watt 10,000K German bulbs. I did not buy the fixture with compacts or fluorescents as I had intended to keep my present Custom Sealife fixture which has two 65 watt smart lamps. I must have measured wrong because now I find that both fixtures will not fit on the top of the tank! Can I go with just the Halides?
<Yes>
I have an additional question on the sump. I have two idea's. First, I would like to place an additional protein skimmer in the sump to supplement the hang on Remora I now have. The Remora is rated to 75 gallons. The tank is 80 gallons. Marginal at best.
<Two skimmers is a good idea, alternate cleanings.>
My second thought is to make the sump more of a refugium. Reading some of the responses you have made to other 'reefers', I was thinking of a 5 inch sand bad, with some live rock and Caulerpa.
<Another good idea.>
The biggest tank I could fit is probably 20 gallons, precluding doing both of the above. If you had your druthers, which would you go with?
<Add the refugium and buy a bigger skimmer to replace the Remora.>
Thanks again for your time and patience.
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Re: attempt to re-send a confusing question (aquarium set-up, marine)
<Anthony Calfo with the follow-up... I've e-mailed a reply to the separate questions you posed to me through my personal e-mail>
Hi and thanks for the input. However, alas I have no room for a larger tank or a sump really. Or to be more precise, the tank is undrilled and from all my reading on your site, I'm very leery of risking floods with an add-on overflow especially with my minimal plumbing skills!! 
<much agreed>
do I understand you correctly re replacing the original Eheim substrate their Ehfisubstrat, "sintered glass" biol. filter media, plus their Ehfimech, ceramic cylinders for mech. filtration) both, or just one? with the Siporax beads? They sound equivalent to the Ehfimech, no? 
<if you were going to use the filter... I'm voting for changing both (with good prefiltration) if your need for biological filtration is greater than your fear/reality of nitrate accumulation>
Then you go on to say, I think, replace the whole darn Eheim with more powerful powerheads or an external pump. 
<the water pumps alone will not replace the biological component in the Eheim. For that you would need more live rock and water current (hence the power head recommendation)>
The external pump option assumes a sump, correct? 
<generally, the easiest way>
If I were having denitrification problems, wouldn't I have at least some detectable nitrates?
<agreed>
and mine are zero. 
<excellent>
I see lots of bubbles (nitrogen, I think) emerging from my LR and the LS. 
<are your lights on excessively long (over 12hrs for fluorescent, or over 9 hours for MH?...hence the bubbles>
Sorry for so many questions, I'm really hoping you can
clarify further these many options, especially since when I was consulting you re the original set-up, unless I misunderstood, I was quite sure you were quite enthusiastic re use of an Eheim in a reef for flow as well as back up biol. filtration.
<indeed reliable when biological and mechanical filtration is needed artificially>

Re: attempt to re-send a confusing question
<Alexander...Anthony here, I replied to the message in Bob's mail for you separately for the other questions... the rest are in the body of your text below:>
<<Thanks Antoine. Bob>>
Anthony, thanks for the reply.
<quite welcome>
I was aware of the low pH problem and was trying to rectify it by changing to a more alkaline 2-part additive based on input from Randy on RC), as well as h2o changes. So that could sure be the culprit for stressing/killing the Xeniids.
<Indeed>
Do you have any input on Eric's or Bob's suggestions on getting rid of the Eheim or changing its media to Siporax?
<this really depends on where the tank is going in the future... with in increasing fish/bio-load (new or growing fish), I would agree with the Siporax. However, if the tank is definitely going reef... then I do not favor any efficient biological media in your Eheim, and I would add more live rock and water pumps for current>
any input on my HOT Magnum running carbon 24/7? In a recent Q&A I
think you advised someone to rinse his often enough to make sure it didn't
"go biological"; I don't understand that...
<if you leave it undisturbed long enough, it becomes biological just like the Siporax or ceramic media and can produce nitrate...bad if the tank is/goes reef>
My morning pH is now about 8.2; same in the evening for that matter. Should I just be doing more h2o changes? My alk is about 3.6 and Ca about 470.
<add some very small amounts of baking soda to bring the pH up no more than .1 per day until you get to 8.3-8.6. Your alkalinity is reasonable and your calcium (if accurate) is quite high>
I don't know if it's possible or an imposition to ask you and Bob to look at each other's replies to the same question cuz they're quite different;
<yes... He is a great fish aquarist and my vision is admittedly narrowed for reef aquariology (invertebrates)... two different filtration methodologies... decide which path suits you better>
I know there's no absolute right answers, but I'd sure appreciate some way to put the two viewpoints together. Now my main concern is no longer the
original xenia problem, but what to make of Eric B.'s opinion that there are
really basic problems with my set-up itself and how to correct them.
<Honestly... I see a lot of merit in what Eric (and Bob) were trying to say. In the long run, your set-up is not at all conducive to a heavy bio-load for fish or reef invertebrates. However, your sexy filtration is well suited and convenient for a nice community tank of small to medium load (not too many or too large fishes and some invertebrates possibly) Anthony
Calfo>

RE: Newly Set Up Tropical Tank
Hi Anthony
<greetings, dear>
Thanks for your swift response! You guys are truly a godsend to us
hobbyists!
<we aim to please <smile>>
Maybe I should try eating the algae myself!
<overrated... I've already tried if...marine Nori is better...hehe>
Have arranged to get some Otocinclus catfish as you suggest. 
<a great little fish!>
I will make sure my other two reserved fish receive lots of meaty food. I must admit, I didn't buy them for their algae eating abilities but their good looks!
<and good looks they have!>
Finally, we recently got a blue spotted Jawfish for our reef tank. He is the cutest little fellah! All bug-eyed and gorgeous! 
<name him Harvey. especially if he has a hump on his back>
He certainly does love digging up the substrate though, I never know where he is going to pop up next!
<too cool>
Thank you so much once again!
<quite welcome>

Marine Tank
Dear Robert,
I found your site and it is excellent. I have read so much and now I am
confused. I live in Cyprus (Mediterranean Sea) where you pay a lot of money for small things since the importers are so few and can do whatever they want.
<I visited there (mainly Limasol) with the Hash House Harriers in 1996. Very nice... and hot!>
I have made my first marine tank and tomorrow I am expecting my live
rock from the Red Sea.
The tank is 82gallons.
I have the Red Sea Berlin turbo skimmer and the TetraTec UV-Sterilizer
The water is pumped back to the tank using a 53 US g.p.m pump
(www.pedrollo.com <http://www.pedrollo.com/> the TOP2 domestic pump and very good price over here).
My questions are:
1. Is the pump strong enough or should I add smaller pumps in the
tank as well?
<I would seek, use one about three times this size>
2. I read that we must make water changes all the time until the
rock is healed. Doesn't this remove any organisms from the rock? Should
I remove anything from the rock?
<Please read through our site starting here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/morelrcurefaqs.htm following the links outward>
3. Since I change water it means that all ammonia and nitrite readings change. How do I know that the water has cycled for the first
time?
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/estbiofiltmar.htm and onward>
4. Is there a way to change the water with out removing the salt so
that I do not have to make salt water all the time?
<Practically, no>
5. I have 2x36W marine white lap (9500K) by Arcadia and 1x36W
marine blue actinic by arcadia as well. Are they enough? Should there be
an order on switching on? I read that I will need to have 8hours of
darkness per day in the tank.
<Please read about Live Rock, Lighting for the same on WetWebMedia.com>
Sorry for all the questions. I read so much so I am now confused and I
need some straight answers. Regards, Alexander Stamatiou
<Keep studying my friend. All will soon be clear. Bob Fenner>

Second (or third and fourth ) opinions please on set-up
Hi Bob, Steve, or Anthony,
An expert on another BB (both to remain anonymous) just freaked me out, suggesting my whole set-up could be a huge problem. The context was a ? about sudden xenia meltdown, but the reply (well-meaning, I'm sure), led to an emotional meltdown, so I'd like to describe my system ( which was set up with tons of advice from Bob and WWM; and everything seems fine except for the xenia problem which I know is often unexplainable) and see if any of you guys see the same basic mistakes in set-up, OK?
46 gallon with 70(sic)# LR, 60#LS about 3"deep, 2x96 watt PC's on 12 hrs/day, one actinic and one 10,000K
CPR BakPak skimmer(200gph), Eheim 2026(250gph)Maxijet 900(270gph), and a H.O.T Magnum running only carbon(250gph)
T=80, S.G.=1024, ammonia, nitrate, nitrite and phosphate all undetectable. Alk=3.6, Ca=450-470 (using B-ionic) pH=8.2
Corals: one bubble, two toadstools, one Fungia, one open brain, one Clavularia, one zoanthid, and one very sick pulsing xenia till recently 2 huge rapidly growing xenias)
Critters: 2 false percs, 2 Banggais, 2 cleaner shrimp, 2 emerald crabs, numerous scarlet hermits, and assorted snails.
So, the other expert said I had very inadequate flow because of "the way canister filters provide flow" and huge excess of microbial biomass, probably using excess oxygen especially at night, "when everything in tank might be near death"; and suggested that since LR, LS, and the Eheim all provided substrate for aerobic bacteria, there was a problem with the Eheim and the magnum, (especially "in such a new system")
As I said the tank looks great, there's good coralline growth starting it's only been running about 3-4 months), the fish and inverts all seem happy and feeding well, no major algae problems.
So I was baffled to hear I had so many problems I was unaware of! I'm thinking there must just be different schools of thought on use of canisters in reef tanks, just as on everything else in this hobby/world/life!
I'd really appreciate any input from any of y'all on this. BTW, I have no sump so the idea behind the Eheim was specifically to provide the main flow and back-up bio. filtration. If the consensus is to get rid of the Eheim, would I just remove the media and turn it into a "mini-sump"? If so, would I have to remove the media gradually to avoid a sudden decrease in biol. filtration capacity?
<I hate to comment without seeing the your original question and the reply to get the full context. That said, your system does not look that bad to me. You have a protein skimmer, so oxygen depletion at night should not be a problem. Canister filter flow rates do drop off remarkably between cleanings, so there is some truth there. If you cut and paste the original dialogue, I may be of more assistance.>
Thanks in advance!
<You are quite welcome. -Steven Pro>

Advice
Dear Mr. Fenner,
<You actually reached Steven Pro today. I am part of the WWM crew who take turns answering some of the daily questions.>
I wrote to you once, but in case you don't remember me, my name is Ryan and I am 14.
<Pleased to meet you. Always great to hear from the future of the hobby.>
I have a 29 and I'm now going to upgrade to a 55 gallon marine tank. I am buying the complete set-up from a veteran marine guy -- it all
works well and it's in great shape. It comes with skimmer, pumps,
biofilters, lights, hood, etc. -- everything.
Question #1: I want to make it an invertebrate tank, but I can't afford to put 2-3 inches of live sand in it. I have heard that you don't need to use pure live sand. Is there another method? I do plan on using some live rock.
<You do not need to use all live sand. You can use almost all dead, dry, aragonite sand and just "seed" it with a few pounds of live sand.>
Question #2: I have read that I should build my new tank in the following sequence, but I would like your advice to be sure I'm going to do it right: (1) add salt water (I'm buying it from a marine aquarium store) and 1" of live sand, wait a week (2) transfer my live rock over to new tank, wait a week (3) Add another 1-2" of live sand, wait a week, (4) transfer my current animals (snails, hermits, 2 damsels). What do you think is the best and safest sequence to do it in? I am able to take water samples in to the aquarium store whenever I need to.
<It is not good to continue burying the live sand with more layers. Try this instead. Add your 3-4" of dry sand and salt water. The tank will be cloudy for awhile. Wait one week and add live sand. Wait until ammonia and nitrite are zero. Then move over your live rock. Again wait until ammonia and nitrite are zero. Then move your animals.>
Question #3: With my small tank, I never did any water testing except to check salinity -- I just took samples to the store. Should I start testing at home? If so, what test kits do I need and what testing schedule should I follow?
<I always like to have pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate kits. Just in case you discover a potential problem after business hours. You have to watch ammonia and nitrite closely for the first few months. After that pH and nitrate give you an idea of your overall water quality. I would also suggest you buy a copy of Bob's book, "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist". It will help you a lot.>
Thanks for your help -- I want to do this right. I learned some rough
lessons with my 29 gallon and don't want to repeat them.
Ryan Blankenship
<It was a pleasure to help you. -Steven Pro>

Re: Setup Question???
<Greetings Adam... Anthony Calfo here with the follow up for Bob. I am a friend of Bob's, nearly a lifelong aquarist, author of the Book of Coral Propagation, and obviously shameless about plugging my book... hehe>
Thanks for such a quick response.
<WWM seems to have a full time crew of dedicated aquarists with no social life <smile>>
I have been spending countless hours reading and the one main issue that keeps coming up is a) wet/dry can only lead to problems,
<agreed>
b) lava is a phosphate nightmare and should get rid of it for some base rock or live rock. 
<most likely>
My current plan is to remove the lava and get about 100 lbs of live/base rock. 
<live rock is one of the best investments you can make... but do wait to buy the best rock that you can afford. Cheap base rock that lacks good coralline algae growth is harder to defend against nuisance algae that are so common in young tanks. Try to resist anything called "base" rock... it is also a label given to live rock in the industry that has been delayed or otherwise mishandled and lost much of its life. I suspect you will be disappointed in the product>
I do not think this is a problem as the nitrogen cycle has yet to start. 
< a moot point if you buy cured live rock>
I am think about the turbo floater or the AquaC EV-120. 
<a good skimmer is crucial... learn to make necessary adjustments to get it to produce DAILY product...no exceptions>
I will also upgrade my single bulb fluorescents for the 192 total watt PC Smartlites. I am going to leave the bioballs in the sump for the time being unless the nitrates go off the chart. Any concerns yet?
<nope... still rollin' witcha>
My fish will be Purple Tang, Corel Beauty, Flame Hawk, Cleanup Crew, Yellow Tang?
<a rowdy bunch, believe it or not... please add the tangs last if possible, and be sure that they are of different sizes with the hope of reducing competitive aggression (they are likely to scrap a bit...in some cases terribly)>
sand sifters/Gobies. 
<also add these late so that they do not decimate the beginnings of interesting microfauna in the sand. And do be very careful of species selection... many of the popular ones in the hobby are doomed to starve to death in immature tanks>
Generally, do you think I am on the right path?
<actually, the level of understanding that you have demonstrated is well above the average... kudos to you for good research! Keep up the good work>
Please advise to anything I am missing. Thanks! Adam
<do try to align yourself/participate in local and/or regional aquarium societies. They are perhaps the best places to get unbiased and cutting edge information from people who aren't trying to sell you something. kindly, Anthony Calfo>

can't think of a title (Oh for the good old days of Vita Lites)
Hi!
I've read your article in FAMA about the lighting about 6 times now (the one where you mention Vita-Lite), and after having concluded that it made good sense, I decided that I would follow the advise, and I abandoned the idea that the only way I could successfully have a reef tank would be if I went out and spent a fortune in MH lighting.
<Unfortunately the maker, Dura Corporation is no longer in business... such are the lag times twixt writing and publication...>
I'm in eastern Canada so I figured that finding the Vita-Lite bulbs would be impossible around here. I tried the 1-800 number in the article but it doesn't work from Canada so I went online and did a search. I found the Canadian website http://www.duro-test.ca/ and got an 800 number from there. I found out that the original Duro-Test corp. was bought out by someone or some corporation in Canada (might even have been Duro-Test Canada, can't remember). I asked them if they had 18" bulbs for my 10 gallon coralline growth setup and they said that they were no longer made but that they were coming back sometime in November. 
<Really!? Great news!>
The 4 foot bulbs were still available though. So I asked for the closest dealer and wow! Only 80 miles away, a hydroponics store had 2 18" bulbs left, was I lucky or what?!
<I'll say!>
The very same day I got the fixtures, and a couple of pounds of live rock to add to my 10 gallon setup, after all as a beginner, and as a lover of all life that is all I could afford to lose if something went wrong. I heard that I could skip the skimmer while growing coralline and my circulation is good at above 300Gph,
<Mmm, I would not "skip" the skimmer... much to be lost by not using one during this time>
one AquaClear on a timer and a zoomed rotating powerhead which has a sponge attached to the intake for minimal biological filtration. One of the small rocks that I got came with a small colony of branching polyps that looks like some type of Acropora, some pink, purple, and orange coralline, a couple of single polyps with tentacles that look like a miniature anemone, as well as a mushroom looking type of burgundy coralline. At first I used both bulbs even though the tank looked kind of naked but after a week or so everything started too look so pale, the coral seemed to be bleaching, and I figured that the tank where the live rock had previously been living in for maybe 1 or 2 years was darker and was far much more crowded so I removed one of the bulbs (bear with me, this is my first saltwater tank). Now, I believe that because I don't have a skimmer my water quality was slowly going down 
<Yes>
and I was really supposed to be doing more water changes than just once a week (had I only known then), so in the meantime everything looks fine and the coral gets part of its color back, after I move it further from direct light (I think it was in the shade in the previous tank), the poor thing must have gotten stressed out from me trying to find the best place for it but it's frustrating having to wait a few days for the corals response and today I almost thought it was dead because the zooxanthellae were taking off. I had fed a tiny bit of fresh scallop a couple of days before and the single coral with the tentacles loved it and even the branching coral was munching on it but I must have really overfed the tank because two days later those ugly brown diatom algae started showing up all over the place.
<Not necessarily due to overfeeding... or anything you're doing, not doing... a natural cycle of events...>
I cleaned the tank today and was sad for the branching coral because all the color was almost gone from the polyps but still I took a very small paintbrush and trapped some squished scallop in it and fed it to the coral and it must still be alive because most of the polyps were eating. Can I do anything, light-wise, to bring back the zooxanthellae?
<Turn the lights back on... leave on for twelve hours a day>
Any other suggestions?
<Please read through WetWebMedia.com's faqs files re algae, coral culture, alkalinity, pH, biominerals like calcium...>
I know I'm only growing coralline for now but I can't stand seeing anything die. Also, my coralline looks fine, very bright especially after I dusted the yucky algae off it with a very soft paintbrush, but am I committing a crime here by just having 1 15w bulb?. I hope you like reading.. :-)
Thank you! Claudia
<I do like reading, learning, helping. Be chatting my friend. Bob Fenner>

Saltwater
I have a 75 gallon saltwater tank with a protein skimmer and a wet/dry filter.
<The W/D is probably unnecessary if you are moving to more of a reef tank. Also, how often do you have to empty your collection cup on the skimmer? If it is less than several times weekly, you are not getting enough.>
I have compact lighting, 4-65 watt bulbs, two white and two blue. I have 130 pounds of live rock and the tank is 3 months old. I've noticed for about a week now that I beginning to see what appears to be, red slim algae and I began to do small water changes, 5gals at a time. I've cut back on the feeding and was wondering if there's something else I can do. I'm very particular of how my tank looks. I have 5 pieces of coral and 6 fish. the fish that I have are, Yellow tang, Niger Trigger, Cleaner Wrasse,
<You do know that the cleaner wrasse has a horrible record of slowly starving to death in captivity. When this one dies, please do not replace it as their absence of the real reef has an effect on the other fishes that require their services.>
Maroon Clown, Blue Damsel and a Blue jawed Gobi. They all get alone very well. I use all RO water for start up and water changes. I do add Calcium, Iodine, and balanced liquid called essentials for the coral. <The RO water is good. I would also suggest possibly increasing your circulation. You did not mention this, but somewhere in the neighborhood of a total of 750 gph to 1500 gph would be appropriate. Also, I would cut out the "essentials". Calcium and iodine are enough.>
HELP!! Any information you can provide would be appreciated. I also want my tank to be as clear looking through the length as it does from the front of the tank. Thanks.
<Glad to be of assistance. -Steven Pro>

Cloudy Tank
First off I would like to thank you for putting together such an informative website. Over the months I have enjoyed reading all of your articles and your suggestions. It is an excellent source for many of my research on marine aquatics. I have a fifty five gallon salt water tank, to make a long story short I purchased another 55gallon for also reef..... now what I did was onto the 55 gallon I took out all the gravel and added sand.. and then transferred it to the new reef tank the tank has been set up for three days and it is still cloudy even though I used up the other gravel is this normal sir and how long before it would clear up... 
<quite normal...should clear within days to a week. The skimmer will help if it is working daily collecting skimmate>
and also what would say id have to do in order to keep the tank crystal clear..
<aggressive protein skimming, good water circulation for the benefit of all filters, and regular partial water changes>
currently I have an Eheim canister filter........ which is meant for an 80 gallon tank but I use for a 55... I have a Fluval 35 gallon filter/70gallon skimmer. and then I have a penguin filter for 35gallon which I mainly use due to the bio wheel...
Thank you for having the time to read my e-mail I will be awaiting your reply.  Yours truly, Salman Khan
<with kind regards, Anthony>

New marine set up and protein skimmer questions
We are in the process of setting up our first marine aquarium. We're
planning to add a protein skimmer. We're wondering which model to buy.
We're considering the Aqua C EV-180. I read about one by Turboflotor (I
think that's a brand).
<Actually a model name for products made by Aqua-Medic>
What do you recommend?
<Both in different settings, circumstances... Please read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/skimselfaqs.htm and beyond>
And which pump would be best
to go with it? Should the protein skimmer be added now or later? 
<See WWM re set-up...>
I'm confused if it should be added after the cycling is completed or now to help with the cycling. And once it's on should it be on continuously or set on a timer?
<See the WWM site>
What we have so far:
100 gallon tank, ~ 50 lbs live rock from Fiji (don't know specific brand),
100 lbs live sand, overflow. The filter is a 24" wide, 8" deep, 14" high
sump with bio balls on one side and an underwater Rio 2500 pump on the other.
There's a 300 watt heater below the bio balls in the sump.
<See the site re Wet Drys, media...>
lighting: JBJ JD1 Venice type light. Right now we have qty 2 (55 watts
each, 47") combo bulbs (half white and half blue). Total watts 110. Does
this light seem right for our set up? Planning fish only for now.
<Should be fine for this>
Also wondering if the light should be on during cycling and if so for how long each day?
<See WWM>
All this has been running about weeks. About how long until it's ready for
the first fish? Oh, one more question. Can you recommend a good water test kit? Thanks so much in advance for your help!
<Help yourself my friend. Bob Fenner>

Starting a new system
Mr. Fenner,
I have sent and attachment of what I hope to be a reef set up for my 75 gallon tank. If you can, could you please read it and tell me what you think?
I will be in your debt! Thanks, Josh
<Nice graphics... wish I knew how to reproduce, archive them>
This is a diagram of my 75 gallon reef tank. It will be installed in my living room wall. With all if the equipment in the walk in closet.
First it a front view. The sand will be 5” deep and consists of ESV oolithic (spelling?) <oolithic, "egg, sand/stone") sand. The 2 boxes are overflows to my sump. ((I want lots of surface skimming…is it too much?))
<No, fine> 
The second picture is a top view. Again the black is my overflows. The blue boxes will be my Maxijets that will be on a wave timer. The two purple boxes are the returns from the sump that will be on a closed loop.
That is 90 pounds of Walt Smith rock. All lit by 2 250 watt 6,500K MH lights and 2 33 watt VHO actinics (spelling again?)<actinics>
Now on to my sump.  OK, the red is my skimmer, the purple is the pvc from the over flows. The blue box is the return, the darker green box is the pump to the refugium (powered by 2 95 watt PC) and the yellow is my gravity overflow back to the sump. All contained in a Rubbermaid round (deep) tub. Do you think my plains sound at all feasible? 
<Yes, very nice>
Or should I go back to the drawing board? BTW, there will be 2 250 heaters in the sump.
Thank you for you time and help! This is my first attempt at designing my new set up. Your feed back would be the best. 
Josh <This looks and reads as a well-thought out plan. Bob Fenner> 

Marine Set-Up
Hi! Bob,
<Howdy>
I hope you have an awesome X-mas and will have a great new year.
I for one just got back from Vegas. I figured I would check out the fish
tanks there before I start working on mine. I stayed at the Mirage and the
tank was awesome, I was unable to see the filter room though. I also checked out the exhibits at Mandalay Bay and Cesar's Palace.
<Very nice>
I move into my new house on the first of Feb so I am in the process of
getting everything together. I would like to take you through my plans on
more time and see you think I should have any major changes. I am also
trying to save money on electricity so I am doing the bare minimum on
lighting. Bust since this whole project is costing me more than 20K I would
definitely make changes if you think necessary.
<Okay>
So here is the scoop. I have three tanks in series connected to a sump in a
room dedicated to only filters. I would really appreciate you taking the
time to give me your input.
Tank 1
270 gal (Glass) (6x3x2'high)
Lighting 1000K 400W metal Halide and 2x55 watt PC blue spectrum
I am going to keep only clams and some hard corals at one end of tank.
(Don't like to make tanks busy with corals) So corals only under light.
Fish: Sohal tang, H. Tusker, Zebra Moray, Betta, checker board wrasse and orange Dottyback.
Tank # 2
240 Gal (Acrylic) (8x2x2)
Lighting 1000K 250W metal Halide 2x96 watts PC lighting.
I am going to keep anemone and some soft corals in this tank. Corals only
under light.
Fish: Majestic Angel and Regal Angel, yellow, convict, Kole and Desjardin
tang. Mated pair of anemone fish. Also five cleaner shrimp.
Tank # 3
900 Gal (Acrylic) (15x4x2' high)
Lighting. 440 watts VHO and 2x96W PC
I am going to make this only fish with live rock and mushroom corals if they
will survive.
Fish: Maculosus angel, Emperor Angel, Annularis Angel, Blueface Angel, flame, C beauty and Eibl's angel. 4 Semi Larvatus butterfly, 1 raccoon, 1 poor man's Moorish idol, 1 Auriga and one long nose. 4 Anthias, 4 gramma, 4 flame wrasse, 1 Scott's fairy wrasse, 6 Banggai, 1 unicorn tang, 1 lipstick tang, purple tang and regal tang.
Sump (all three tanks are connected to this sump.)
240 gal (4'x4x2' high)
The sump will have two four feet high and one foot in diameter each Euro
reef skimmer. Two calcium reactors, a Neptune controller and a bunch of
pumps and four 40W UV sterilizers.
I am going to pump 4400 gal/ hr into the 900 gal fish tank, and 3600 gal
into the 240 and water from the 240 drain into the 270 and back to the sump.
Questions: Do you think I have too many fish? Will the mix of angels work?
<About maximum... and should>
I will of course do this over the course of a year. i.e. slow. Also is it a bad idea to connect the three tanks together. I figure that will give it more stability and I will have to do let work and will be able to control the tanks better. All your advise is as valuable as gold to me. This is my dream slowly coming true. I have read all the books I can read and gone around the world seeing fish in tanks and in the ocean but these are some questions that only someone who has been in the trade a long time can attempt to answer. I really appreciate your time. And have a very happy new year.
Bhaskar.
<About the only thing I would change, amend here is to tie in another large volume/sump... and possibly add another/redundant pump/ing system.
Bob Fenner>