Rocky Horror Aquarium Show
Greetings to all at the WWM crew (and especially that cute thing, Anthony, with his clothespin dread locks. Actually, that should be “cute thang”, I’m a Southern girl.),
<heehee... you sure know how to make a fella blush :)>
Well, my 140g SW tank has been running for 15 days now. With all of the live rock it cycled very quickly – less than a week. The live rock had a lot of Coralline algae, mushroom polyps, tube worms, other polyps (not sure what) and about 25+ sprigs of what I think is Sawblade Caulerpa.
The tank is so tall (about 3 inches taller than I am) I have to stand on a stepladder to do anything. My husband says I look like a character out of “The Rocky Horror Picture Show”. Gee, hope it’s one of the girls. Though I wouldn’t mind being able to shimmy like Tim Curry.
<heehee...>
Anyway, three days ago I added 3 small hermit crabs and 2 Astrea snails and 1 turban snail. All tests are excellent except I did have a drop in pH (from 8.4 to 8.1). However, I just discovered yesterday that I should have been adding baking soda once a week – so I added 4 tsps.
<specifically... add calcium (like Kalkwasser not calcium chloride) and buffer (carbonates like baking soda) BOTH as necessary in accordance with your water tests. Aim for 350-425 ppm Ca and 8-12 dKH for a reasonable range... a bit higher for hardcore reefs>
yesterday and 3 today (sort of split the dose in hopes that I could get a steady rise in pH instead of one big jump). 
<very wise>
Also, found out I should have been adding a little soda to the RO/DI water, which I will do in the future.
<yes... but aerate the RO water overnight first before adding any buffer>
Haven’t changed out any water yet as I didn’t have any livestock until 3 days ago. However, I plan to do a water change next week. 
<I'm assuming you did a big water change after the rock cycled? Very necessary even with good chemistry. There are many dissolved nutrients that will feed a nuisance algae bloom if you don't dilute them. Hopefully the protein skimmer is working daily too>
So, I would be grateful if one of you very knowledgeable and very nice fellows would review my plan and tell me if I’m on target.
<our pleasure>
I’m setting up my 25g quarantine tank and plan to use some of the aged water from the 140g to help jumpstart the QT tank.
<fine for when setting resetting the QT tank for new entries, but generally the QT doesn't stay running or cycled (it would require livestock to do so that we don't want to become territorial, established or infected by the new entries). Simply run a sponge filter at all times in your display sump so that it is ready and cycled on a moments notice when you bring a new creature home for QT (then draw the aged water and dirty sponge filter for an instant tank)>
I’m going to put the change water in a nice Rubbermaid container and aerate it using a small pump and airstone for 24 hours. I tested our tap water to determine its’ pH – it’s 8.4. Do I need to add baking soda to buffer the pH if it is already 8.4?
<nope... 8.4 is very fine>
Next I’ll add the salt (Instant Ocean) and continue to aerate for another 3 days, then test for pH, specific gravity, and salinity. Do I need to test for anything else besides these? I’ll match as close as possible the specific gravity, pH and temperature of the main tank prior to executing the water change.
<all fine>
Does this procedure sound about right or do I need to do some additional steps?
<looking good!>
Bless all of you for your unselfish commitment to the hobby and for your willing guidance. Sincerely, Diane (deep in the South Louisiana bayous)
<we'll look forward to eating crayfish with you one day :) Kindly, Anthony>

Marine set-up query
Dear Bob, I was hoping I could ask some questions about converting my African cichlid tank into a marine tank.
<begin by taking the freshwater cichlids out :)>
My tank size is 4ft x 20" high x 18" back. I'm really just interested in having fish and rocks in the tank.
<an excellent size for rockscaping>
I already have a Fluval 404 ext canister filter and also two Resun SP2500 internal filters. Can I make use of these or should I just go for a undergravel with 2 powerheads?
<nope... keep what you have and add as much live rock as you can afford. You will also need a good protein skimmer (Euroreef, Aqua C, Tunze etc would-be nice for a good/heavy fish load>
What are some examples of filtering options, listing all components ? e.g., 404, SP2500 int filter and skimmer, or powerhead, 404 and skimmer, or undergravel with 2 powerheads and a skimmer, or sump filter and a skimmer.
<many possibilities. The more live rock you have the less filters you will need. A skimmer is a must. And beyond that you will simply want very strong water flow throughout the tank. The specific types of filters you use will depend on the fish load. Small to med fish load and fishes can work fine with only live rock and a skimmer! Large fishes will warrant the canister and wet dry filters. Always use at least one small filter with carbon changed regularly>
Should I go for a sump filter if possible?
<yes, if possible... they are quite convenient even when empty to keep heaters, pumps, dosing/evap top-off, etc>
How/where does liverock fit into the scheme of things?
<everywhere... just like Elvis>
Recommended fish types and qty?
<really your personal preference... I cannot pick for you. If you express an interest and make a list after browsing a good book or website, I can guide you though. Do scan our site at www.WetWebMedia.com. Many fishes to see here :)>
Thanks very much Kind regards, Scott Brownlie
<best regards, Anthony>

Re: Marine set-up query
Hi Anthony
Thanks for the speedy reply. Your answers are greatly appreciated.
<my pleasure>
I'm sorry if you're not familiar with the Resun SP2500 that I've been referring to!
<in truth, I do not have personal experience with this brand>
So, my Fluval 404, one/two SP2500 1400lph internal filters and heaps of live rock ?
<yes... with the understanding that the live rock will actually be doing most of the work (biological filtration)>
One suggestion I've had for my 404 was to remove the filter baskets and fill it full of bioballs.
<possible if the bio-load was going to be heavy... but at that point a proper wet/dry filter with bio-balls would be better anyway>
Perhaps one Resun SP2500 with the filter cartridge and the 404 inlet/outlet up one end and the other SP2500 as a powerhead down the other end. I know the possibilities may be endless, it's just hard when I don't know a good idea from a bad one.
<quite frankly, there is no need to worry or overcomplicate when live rock is so efficient. Literally just a pile of live rock, a single hang on filter with a carbon and a very good skimmer and you have an excellent system!>
I do like the idea of a sump filter but mostly to hide the skimmer.
<agreed>
The skimmer some have recommended here in Australia is a Queens Turbo Skimmer.
<if the folks on the message board at ozreef.org like it, I'll trust that it is good. The little that I've heard of it has been mixed>
I have a spare 2ft tank and an overflow box so a sump might not take too much more to set up.
<you'll find that a sump is quite useful for many things. Do drill the display tank rather than use an overflow if possible though: fewer risks of overflow or complicated plumbing>
Kind regards, Scott
<Cheers, Anthony>

Live Rock & Large Predators
Hello Fish Gods. This Fish Mortal you may recall is upgrading a 180 FO & large predators to a FOWLR & better EVERYTHING! A few questions as I move forward...
1.) I have 75-100 lbs. of dead rock in the tank. I am soon to add 90-150 lbs. of live rock to the tank and sumps. Anthony suggested not doubling my current 120 watts of lighting for fear of an algae bloom because I had 40 ppm nitrate and (yikes) 4 phosphates. Once the water parameters are corrected--they are being corrected now-- should I still hold off on upping wattage since the dead rock will take a lot of time to be seeded by coralline, and then improve wattage later?
<I would upgrade the lighting.>
Or will the added live rock need the additional wattage ASAP to keep purple/other growth?
<Yes>
2.) Per WWM's advice, I am supplementing my disappointing Berlin skimmer with a Euro-Reef CS8-1 next week. It will go into a new sump #2 (Rubbermaid type with an Iwaki pump back to the tank, per two more pieces of WWM reading!). I'm fuzzy on one part. I can't drill the tank, and I know you don't like siphon box overflows. What's the recommendation to pull water down from the tank into this sump #2, and on what size line?
<You only have two options, either a hole in the tank or a siphon system.>
My sump #1 (a wet dry holding the Berlin) is fed by a corner overflow with two 1" lines, but I can't imagine I could switch one of those lines to sump #2?
<Wait a minute. You cannot run two completely separate sumps each with their own pump. One pump will always out pump the other causing one sump to overfill and the other to run empty. You can drain from the tank to sump 1 then drain from there to sump 2 and then pump back to the tank, assuming all of these can gravity feed from one to the next.>
Can I simply hook a "U" shaped pipe over the edge of the tank and attach a 1" line to it? FYI spec sheets say my new Iwaki (sump #2) will push 1200 GPH at 0 head while my Little Giant (sump #1) pushes 1100.
<See note above.>
3.) I have a snowflake moray, gold meleagris puffer and clown trigger in this tank, with possibly (?) a fourth fish to add: maybe a Miniata grouper or Hawaiian dragon moray. In case you weren't aware, these fish like to eat :) I am aware of the effectiveness of the various herbivores available to fight off unwanted algae. Do I have ANY shot at all of keeping some of these fish/snails/crabs alive in this tank, or are all going to be appetizers at the Bad Boys Buffet?
<NO, all will get eaten.>
If so what species might be ignored and survive to fulfill the algae-munching job?
<A big Yellow Tang>
4.) Will my puffer & trigger heavily munch on coralline, or merely sample it?
<Neither>
Can I expect it to thrive in my tank if my water parameters are good, or will these two chew it all up?
<Neither of these two eat coralline algae.>
5.) Also, what exactly happens when an external pump dies?
<They quit working.>
Mine sit in a standard wood aquarium stand. I fear the unknown. Do they "burn" out with a risk of fire to the stand & surroundings, or do they just cease pumping?
<IME, they merely cease pumping.>
I can't thank you all enough for your wonderful site and continuing personal advice. You are making big contributions to the improvement of my tank. Best wishes! Steve
<Glad to hear it! -Steven Pro>

180 gal FOWLR tank
Bob,
I have your book "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist", it's great. I have a plan that I would like you to review for me. I would like to keep the following fish in a 180 gallon 72"x24"24 tank: 1 yellow tang, 3 blue damsels, 1 four-striped damsel, 1 threadfin butterfly, 1 royal Gramma, and 1 flame angelfish. All with some liverock. Can I use the following filtration: Berlin turbo hang-on protein skimmer, Eheim canister filter -500 gph - rated for up to a 400 gallon tank? Do you think I need any other filtration like a wet/dry?
<You need some additional circulation. This can be accomplished with powerheads or a sump pump. Something in the neighborhood of 2000 gph. That with about 150 pounds on liverock will be all you need.>
Thanks, John A.
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Re: Upgrading at last!
Thank you again Mr.Calfo for your fast response! I promise I won't bother you again for a while after this questions...
<no worries at all>
I know you probably answer 300 + e-mails a day and mine are so big... but your help is greatly appreciated...I promise you if you ever come by Daytona or Costa Rica I will give you free stay!!
<it would be a pleasure to meet you>
Also I am dedicating my tank to you, granting you have been my tutor
and mentor for a while!! THANK YOU (SMILE) N-e-ways
Ok, so you prefer glass over acrylic and to have the tank drilled on the back wall (4 holes). Where can I get this done? Do they sell them like this?? 
<most shops that sell glass aquaria either drill tanks or can have them drilled by the manufacturer or distributor for you (slight wait for special order)>
why 4 holes? 2 drop 2 return? 
<actually 4 drain holes if the tank is to be a reef to handle the necessary water flow by a good return pump from the sump. 1" hole sizes are standard but larger holes and less of them are fine too>
If I can't have 4 holes in back wall (because of money or possibilities) Would it be ok if the tank is predrilled on the left back floor portion of the tank? 
<drilling the floor can be tricky and dangerous if you are not experienced with design or plumbing. Generally not recommended>
and to have 2 holes instead of 4? 
<the number of holes only depends on the current that you may want or need. If you do not drill enough, then you will need more power heads in the main display itself which adds expense for equipment, heat and electricity besides looking ugly. I prefer one large water pump from a sump instead>
and to use an overflow kit??
<if this is a simple bulkhead with a gasket, then yes these are standard... although still not leak proof under pressure as a floor drain>
The tank would have a 1'' hole for the drop of water to sump and 3/4" for the return pump, is this an acceptable/ok approach ? 
<wow... one 1" drain and one 3/4" return doesn't even sound like enough for a fish only tank. Very strong water flow is necessary for most any aquaria for fish and invertebrate health, no reduce nuisance algae, etc. If the tank is a reef tank... even four 1" holes may not be enough>
Also you suggested to upgrade my skimmer from the 150 Sea Systems to an Aqua C or Euroreef. My new tank it's going to be 75G. I looked at 3 models:
1. Euroreef CS-1 (75g- 200g)
2. Urchin Pro (75+) Mag Drive 3
3. Ev120 w/Mag 5
Which of the 3 above mentioned would you choose? Or do you have another model for me?
<all three are quite good... examine which spatially will fit best>
My last questions are regarding the substrate... I have 40 pds of live pink Fiji in my current 55g tank. I want to have the best possible substrate for the 75G(REEF), and so I want to know If I'm ok by just adding more live pink Fiji or if I should replace this for something else... 
<depends on what you are trying to achieve with the substrate. If denitrification is the goal... then fine (sugar fine), deep (3-5" minimum) is recommended. Cheap white oolitic/aragonite sand as with South Down from Home Depot is just fine>
Please consider I will use the water I have In my tank now, plus the 45+ pds of LR, also I have pulsating Xenias, 1 anemone, 1 Colt, 10 snails, 10 blue hermit crabs. I will add more LR with time... My plan is: Once I get the tank, I will age 25g of water in the 75 for about 2/3 days to match ph, salinity, temp, alk, cal. Then I would siphon some 20 gallons from the 55 to the 75, at this point I would add the existent substrate or the new one, then I will move the LR and the Corals!! The last ones will be the fishes, snails and crabs!! If you say yes to replace the substrate what should I replace it with?
<as above>
and how many pds for a 48x18x30 (75)? would the change affect my nitrogen cycle (nitrifying Bacteria) and/or the livestock? I am afraid that replacing the substrate might send the tank on cycling again, elevating nitrite levels and killing my livestock, but in the mean time I want to have THE BEST start I can get with my new 2nd tank!! I know I am abusing of your time but any help will be most appreciated!! sorry about my grammar!! JOHN (Costa Rica) Pura Vida!!
<with kind regards, Anthony Calfo>

Lighting, Refugium, and Filtration
Hello there,
Thanks for your help on my past questions. I've got a few questions of different categories. But here's what's in my 55g tank; 1 large serpent star, 2 small serpent stars, 1 cucumber, 2 small sea urchins (one pink, one purple with long and short spines), 5 Astrea snails, about 10 or so blue legged hermits, 3 Florida Condy anemones, only 6 pounds of live rock (covered with coralline and other critters; the rest of the stuff is plastic-like rock formations for decoration); 1 four striped damsel, 1 three striped dam., 2 yellow tail dams., 1 cinnamon clown (juvenile), 1 yellow tang (juv.), 1 Kole tang (juv.). I know this is pushing it for a 55g. There's a Visi-jet skimmer (I know it's not the best... I'm poor, but it pulls out gunk at least twice a week),
<Not bad production. Could be better, but not bad.>
one stationary power head, one sweeping power head on opposite end (both about mid level), wet/dry trickle filter system (water overflows into a corner box built inside tank w/polyester floss, then down into a 10g sump over bio-chem carbon, and finally over blue bio-balls). I use a product called ocean's blend for calcium and alkalinity on a daily basis, instead of all the separate "Kent" products. Salt is at 1.025 (or is it 1.25?),
<You were correct with the 1.025>
temp. is 80 -82F. I do 5g water changes once a week with DI water. The substrate is aragonite (Spelling?)
<Right again.>
and white sand about 3 inches thick. My lights currently consist of 40w of 10K power glo bulbs and a 20w marine glo (Hagen's). I have purchased 2-55w PC 50/50's ballast kit (i.e., no reflector) to arrive within the week. I have a 10g quarantine tank.
1. I would like to keep using my Hagen lights with the PC lights. Since the PC lights should equal 110w, does that cancel out the Hagen lights' wattage since the PC's will be much brighter? In other words will I have 170 watts of lighting (PCs + Hagen's) or will the total be just 110 watts?
<170 watts>
2. My intention is to buy low-light-needing mushrooms, grow coralline algae and maintain an anemone compatible with my clown. Is this lighting adequate in your opinion?
<For all but the host anemone.>
3. I will buy a water test kit soon (remember I am poor), but would you advise removal of the bio-balls with my current stock?
<Not enough liverock for removal.>
I've read that they are potential nitrate factories. I've got some green hair growing (in my tank, that is). If so, how much more live rock would I need to support the system?
<About 50 pounds>
Would you suggest just washing the bio-balls frequently?
<No>
4. What is a "refugium"?
<See here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm  and continue reading through the FAQ files.>
Thank you for your help, Randy M. Yniguez, MA
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

New Tank Help
<<Hello... JasonC here.>>
I set my tank up 12 days ago. At first all was well, however, my water check today was not so good. <<oh?>> The nitrites are 0.5 ppm and the ammonia is the same. My Ph is 7.6. <<Well, that other stuff is normal, but the pH - unless this is a freshwater tank, you need to get that pH up into the 8.2 to 8.4 range if you can.>> My question is should I do a partial water change or leave it alone. <<I would leave it alone until the cycle is complete and settled down.>> How high should I let it get before I do a partial water change. <<'it'? Wait for ammonia/ium and nitrite to go to zero, and then you should be set to start regular water changes.>>
Also when should I vacuum the gravel and change the filter? <<vacuum the gravel in a month or two, and then every so often, depending on what you put in the tank. After nitrogen cycle is complete, you should clean the filters once a week.>> Do I need to wait until the nitrogen cycle is established? <<Oh for certain. Changing water before the 'cycle' is complete will just stall the whole process.>>
Thanks a bunch!!! Karen
<<You are welcome. Cheers, J -- >>

Upgrading at last!
Thank you Mr. Calfo for your fast response!! 
<always welcome>
It's because of your support (Specially Mr.Calfo's) that I decided to venture into the next level...I have worked hard to get this next tank, LOTS of READING and PLANNING and I just don't want a little down the road to realize that I could have gotten something better for the money ,(like first time), so I want this tank to be right and to be an excellent purchase. This is the Ultimate level for me. From a 55 reef to 75!! It's very expensive but to me it's not a hobby anymore it's a lifestyle so I really see it as an investment!! Gosh I really do not know how many articles and info I've read for the past year now!!... but seems to me the more I read the more there is... It's just overwhelming !! As you know I am a Medical student but I'm really convincing myself towards Marine Sciences now...Sorry about the lengthy e-mail... I just get carried away. I wrote to you yesterday and I asked you about what would be the best for my money and you suggested a predrilled built in overflow by either Custom Aquatic or Marine Depot...I checked both places, and then I remember you also suggested to support my locals when possible, so I decided to pay a 2nd visit to my LFS (Coral Reef Express in Daytona Beach FL) excellent place!!, the owner of the establishment (Susan), accepted some lighting equipment and other I had as part of my payment towards the new tank and I really wasn't expecting the $100.00 credit!! It's like I just got a discount for that much, granted I wasn't expecting to sell the equipment so fast!! I am going to buy it from her!!
<I'm very glad for both of you! Kudos>
So far my plans are Cabinet and Stand (Cherry Sealife) Sump Berlin BS125 
<I'd consider a skimmer upgrade... look at an Aqua C, Euroreef or CPR perhaps>
Sealife Single Input Overflow KIT and here is where I have my QUESTIONS:
1. I currently have in my 55, about 20 pds of Fiji Pink live sand and 20 more of another white color (the name escapes me) live sand...I know I will need at least 40 more pounds of substrate for the 75, and I know I shouldn't have mixed to begin with...but so...Should I mix another 40 pds of pink Fiji?
<same or similar grain sand will be fine/necessary>
should I replace the substrate for ARAGONITE?
<aragonite does indeed have benefits like dissolution at even higher pH>
or add something else to the pink sand? like crushed corals? Aragonite? help please??
<adding course media to fine can be a disaster in the long run. Do avoid>
2.what would YOU go for? (tank wise) Acrylic or Glass?? 
<I strongly prefer glass. White starfire when possible>
Does acrylic really scratches that easily? What about long term??
<yes... high maintenance IMO>
is it worth it?? 
<not worth it to me. I like glass outside of earthquake zones>
What's a good price range? $350 to $400?? does that sound about right? is it ok to have it drilled 1'" for drop and 3/4" for return?
<actually, I simply like a drilled back wall... the internal overflow boxes are usually poorly designed and problematic. Pick your pump size before having holes drilled. You will likely need 4 1" drain holes or more/larger>
Thank you so much for all your help... I'm sorry about grammar, English it's not my first language!! ( I Know I know I write good ) I just want you to remember who I am!! IM REALLY CONFUSED AND MY HEAD HURTS!! from searching and reading for the right Tank!! JOHN (COSTA RICA) PURA VIDA
<do look into a local aquarium society... much good information to be had plus fellowship and continued education. Anthony>

Upgrading at last!
Hi Mr. Calfo, Mr. Fenner and the rest of you guys!! My respects and thankfulness before hand!!
<our great pleasure!>
I am finally upgrading my 55 reef to a 75 !! and I' m very super excited!!
<I am excited for you too... how wonderful to set up a new aquarium>
The equipment I bought from before it's ok to be used for the 75 and all I really need to buy is this:
-Tank (with overflow and Overflow kit)
<better to have the tank drilled for bulkheads for gravity overflow. Siphon overflow kits are disasters n the long run... at least inconvenient>
-Canopy
-Stand
-Sump
-Return pump
I went to my LFS, but I'm really confused as to what's the best for my money... NO PLANNING before cost me a lot!! so I do not want to commit the same mistake!! can you guys suggest something for me?? where to go?? what to buy?? not cheap not expensive know what I mean?? any help is greatly appreciated!!
<I honestly feel that several of the advertisers on this site are some of the best around. Custom aquatic has a great catalog and equipment prices. Todd Gabriel is very gracious and helpful there. Marine Depot is also a great source for supplies. They are not an WWM advertiser but I offer them as an alternative to reassure you were are not only biased to our advertisers. There are really a lot of great suppliers out there. Do try to support your locals when possible too. This will serve you well especially for fragile and heavy products like your sump and stand respectively. Best regards, Anthony>

Marine Questions
Hi Bob/Steve/Anthony
<Hello Matt>
I have been reading your site daily for the past few weeks and have found it an excellent source of valuable information for a newcomer like myself. I am currently researching setting up a basic 55 gal FO saltwater tank (canister filter, skimmer, 3 power heads, crushed coral substrate, N.O.
fluorescents) and could do with your help on a few questions.
1) I live in the UK and haven't been able to find any LFS's that sell live rock. Most articles seem to emphasize it's importance but is it still possible to have a healthy environment for the fish without it?
<It's possible... but you and your livestock would definitely be better off with at least some LR usage. Have your stockist contact TMC in the UK re: http://wetwebmedia.com/tmcpropc.htm>
2) I read on another site that you can cycle a tank with mollies as long as you increase the salinity extremely slowly. Would this be a good (and cheaper if anything went wrong!) alternative to cycling with live rock or damsels?
<A definite possibility... systems can be established biologically with even just time, light, and some source of ammonia (fish food of various sorts being added in small amounts on a regular basis. Please see: http://wetwebmedia.com/estbiofiltmar.htm>
3) Because my LFS's have quite a limited stock, I am struggling with a viable stocking plan (I can't make a set plan because it's hit and miss whether they will ever stock the fish that I choose). Could you suggest a list of compatible fish, which I could then narrow down depending on what I can find at the LFS's?  To narrow it down slightly, I am looking for brightly coloured, hardy fish which would not outgrow the 55 gal and wouldn't be too picky with food. I know this is hard as there are so many choices but your input would be greatly appreciated.
<Too many choices to narrow down in this fashion... though the input, constraining factors you've listed are very helpful. Please read through the marine livestock selection articles and many FAQs posted on WWM... and determine a key organism you're keen on... and we'll chat from there. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Thanks very much for your time, Matt, England.

Salt water set up
I am in the process of setting up a 20 gal salt tank. It has live sand, a sponge filter, power filter (carbon), and dried coral. We did as we were told and cycled mollies in it for a little over a month, then we bought a few damsels and moved the mollies to a new 55 gal salt to cycle it. 3 damsels did well for a week or so, then we got 2 more. I did a 2 1/2 gallon water change, and damsels started dying so I did another small change, and lost all but one, which I put in the 55 (he's doing well in there). Pet shop gave us 3 large mollies to put back in the 20 gallon, and I did a 5 gallon water change before releasing them......all 3 died within 24 hours. My hydrometer indicates salinity is right, and we're doing as we've been instructed by pet shop, but we can't figure out what we're doing wrong. Do I need to do larger water change? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
<<Greetings... this water that you do water changes with... do you age it at all or do you mix it up and put it into the tank right away. This could be your problem as the salts typically need some time to go into solution completely. Likewise, what is your source for the freshwater - do you need to add dechlorinators, is it purified somehow? You may have problems in the source water. Here is some reading that might help:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/water4maruse.htm >>
Thank you.
<<Cheers, J -- >>

Re: salt water set up
<<Greetings...>>
Thank you for getting back to me so quickly. I did tests on the water today, the results were as follows:
pH.--8.2
AMMONIA--0.0
NITRITES--0.0
NITRATES--ABT 3.0
Water in tank was measured into container used only for that purpose,
dechlorinated, and Instant Ocean mixed in (1 cup per 2 1/2 gallons).....then was added to tank.
<<Immediately? This is not wise. Must mix and let sit with some aeration for at least 24 hours.>> 
There were no cleaning products introduced, and the only thing that changed was adding the two new damsels. When they were introduced, the new blue damsel turned dark and stayed that way most of the next day.
<<That's just stress.>>
About 48 hours after new fish went in, they started dying.
 <<Yeah... another problem may be that you simply overwhelmed the biological filter on that 20 gallon tank. A 20g is on the small side of small when it comes to keeping marine systems. What most likely happened is that you successfully cycled the tank with the mollies, which were then replaced by the damsels. When you added more fish in close succession, this was more than the new biological filter could handle and the ammonia/ium went back up. I strongly recommend that you not place more than one fish per month in any system under 100 gallons.>>
 My 3 stripe was starting to go downhill, so we put it in the newer 55 gal. salt, and it's lively again. PLEASE HELP! WHAT DO I DO?
 <<Start by always aging mixed saltwater before you add it to the tank. Then, slow down... stop moving so fast. Take your time.>>
Thank you again.
<<Cheers, J -- >>

Re: Upgrading from 46 gallon to ?
Will those fish below
<For those reading the daily page without transcript from the original question, I have pasted the list here: purple tang, pearlscale butterfly, maroon clown, watchman goby, scooter blenny, melanarus wrasse, candy stripe cleaner shrimp, coral beauty angel, & midas blenny>
fare well in a 75 gallon (48x18x20)?
<They should have enough room.>
Our existing 46 bowfront is 36x16x20. I am hoping the extra foot in length will help. I know you said the wider the better (for gas and swimming). The next jump to the 125 is 72" long and we don't have the space. Also, if we add additional live rock to the new tank (in addition to the 10 pounds we already have) will that have an adverse effect?
<Only if uncured, otherwise a wise investment.>
You said to move the filtration to the new tank - but the existing is too small. How long would you suggest running both filters (existing filter & new filter)?
<I would have your new tank drilled and fitted with a sump, not a W/D. To this, I would add 50 pounds of fully cured liverock, additional circulation, and another, bigger skimmer.>
We are looking at a few wet/drys. Very pricey. Is it worth the different to go with the wet/dry over a new Eheim canister?
<See notes above and additional writings on WWM. -Steven Pro>
Thanks! ~Bill
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Upgrading Tank
Hi Bob,
It's me again, I have searched and spent many hours and late nights reading all the info on your site. I'm a Wet Web addict now. Anyway, I wrote to you about the wet/dry my husband was building and he did in fact do so. Here's the specs: I have a 125, with a cap 3000 pump in the sump for return plus compact lighting and about 50 lbs of live rock and 4 damsels to start, and after 3 and a 1/2 weeks of this tank being up my chemicals are as follows Ammonia=0, Nitrite=0, Nitrate=5ppm, pH is at 8.2, calcium is 400, salinity is 1.024, temperature right around 78-80, water used is RO/DI only. I use all the needed chemicals, iodine and such bi-weekly or when needed. Fabulous right? I think so. Well, here is my question, I want to transfer my 55 gallon's occupant's to my 125 which was the plan all along. It consists of 1 bicolor angel, 1 redlip blenny, 1 tomatoe clown, 1 mimic yellow tang, 2 green Chromis and 1 purple Firefish plus about 15 reef crabs red and blue leg, 2 green cling on or reef crabs, one red serpent star, lord only knows how many snails (have baby snails everywhere) and my latest addition a coral colony of green hmmm I forget the name of them anyway and about 150+ lbs of liverock. This tank is 2 years old and everyone in it has been in it for that time except the new coral colony. Now seriously here is my question with the above info would I be safe in moving the 55 family to their new home the 125 all at once or do it over time?
<I would do it all at once; liverock, livesand, fish, filters, etc.>
Thanks for all your help and very informative info keeps the little people like me in check with the changing tides of the world so to speak. It's nice to know I have somewhere to turn for knowledge and you guys at WWM are the best!
Patiently waiting by the ocean, Robin :)
<Talk to you later. -Steven Pro>

Upgrading from 46 gallon to ?
I currently have a 46 gallon bowfront w/ a CPR Bak-Pak skimmer, and a Fluval 304 canister filter. Naturally (like most in this hobby) - I want the biggest tank in the world - ok, the biggest my spare cash will allow. In addition, we have a beautiful, extremely hearty Purple Tang that is starting to get bitchy at his tankmates. We've done the bad-deed of overstocking (I believe). We are looking at a 75 gallon, or even a 125 gallon. A few questions and desires for your opinion:
* Filtration-wise - are we ok with what we currently have for the 75 gallon?
<No>
How about the 125?
<No again.>
What are your thoughts on if we want (or have) to buy new equipment.
<Liverock, livesand, protein skimming, and a refugium. Particulars on each can be found by searching the WWM site.>
* Lighting - currently have generic lighting - we are thinking of exploring Anemone for the maroon clown, and possible corals.
<Depends on what in particular you want to house and which tank you decide on. Corals covers a vast variety of animals with individual needs. Make some decisions and then archive the lighting sections of WWM.>
* Skimmer-wise - are we ok with the CPR Bak-Pak?
<Too small, IMO, for either of your options.>
* In regards to the actual swap of the tanks...
how long can the fish be out of the tank without too much stress - the LFS suggested putting each fish in a separate bowl/milk jug/etc with water from existing tank.
<You want to complete the move in a single day once you remove the fish from their tank.>
using as much water from the 46 gallon as possible, and pre-mixing the remainder, will we need to wait a while for a new cycle?
<No, should be ok if you move the liverock and current filtration to inoculate the new stuff.>
we plan on recycling the gravel, and many of the decorations that were in the original tank, including about 10 pounds of live rock.
<Good>
Will the fish have to be reacclimated?
<Add Everything from the 46 first and next the fish. Then fill up with your premixed water. That way the fish stay in their water the whole time and then just get the water diluted with aged, new water.>
Any particular to put back in?
<No>
Current fish are as follows:
* purple tang
* Pearlscale butterfly
* maroon clown
* watchman goby
* scooter blenny
* melanurus wrasse
* candy stripe cleaner shrimp
* coral beauty angel
* midas blenny (by far one of the coolest fish I've seen!)
<Definitely overstocked in the 46.>
As always - thanks to your team for all the help and suggestions! ~Bill
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

New 150 gallon salt water setup
This is my first setup, I checked my PH it is ok, my nitrite was fine, but my ammonia level was 1.5mgl what can I do to lower it without taking water out of the tank? Because all the water is new. And what type fish should I start a 150 gallon fish tank on? Monty
<<Well, Monty, it sounds to me as if you "just" set this tank up. What you are observing is the establishment of the Nitrogen Cycle, during which various bacteria grow and develop in your system. The upshot is that in four to six weeks, the ammonia/ium should be gone on its own. It is in your best interest to not add any life to the tank or do any water changes while this is going on. Personally, I prefer not to break-in, or "cycle" a tank with live fish. Much better to use live rock if it is available. Baring that, you might try a neon goby or similar inexpensive fish which can put up with high levels of ammonia and nitrite while the tank cycles. If you haven't already, there are many, many articles and answers to questions like this on the web site - here's a good place to start your reading:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/filtration/biological/biofiltr.htm
Cheers, J -- >>

Cleansing of porous rock for reef use
Hi friends, I have some great old porous river rock that has been in my yard for years. I want to place a nice size piece in my reef display tank so that it becomes encrusted with all the goodies and eventually is live rock. My question is how can I safely/properly clean this rock from any substances it may have from the outside, so when I do place it in my tank I shouldn't have any worries of toxins etc.? 
Thank you, Paul
<I would boil, do a bioassay with some of this rock. Please read through our site: WetWebMedia.com re rock ornament use. Bob Fenner>

Tank Construction
Almighty ones... (If Bob was God, and Anthony Jesus, what would that make Steven? Hmmmm...)
<Yoda with an aquarium>
I have a few questions regarding the construction of my new tank. I am getting a 96"Lx24"Wx30"H (300 gallons) acrylic that will hopefully soon be a high-flow reef. From the sump will more than likely be 2 dolphin ampmaster 3000's, which after head pressure should push about 5200 gph, perhaps a bit more. 
<wow... not my choice of pumps unless you consider the electric company to be a charity. Perhaps Iwaki and almost certainly Oase would be better long term investments>
First, the overflow boxes are going to be (two, one in each corner) 12"x8". At the flow rate mentioned, will 2 1.5" drains in each box (total 4 drains with 1.5" diameter) be able to maintain that flow without any gurgling? 
<certainly not>
I was thinking that moving up to 4 2" drains would be better, but will stay at 1.5" if you think this is alright. 
<hmmm... do check bulkhead mfg specs to be sure of max and min flows... their area of expertise>
Also, I was planning on having 8 3/4" centipedes as the returns from the overflow boxes, 4 from each dolphin pump through each box. Do you foresee any problems with this setup (the pumps, overflows, returns?)? 
<yes... a lot of money will be spent <smile>>
The sump is going to 48"x18". I'm starting with a euro-reef CS8-3 skimmer as the stand will only be 34" high.
<Very nice>
Eventually I may add another, but for starters do you think that will be ok?
<a second skimmer (any good brand... perhaps a different brand like Aqua C for contrasting skimmates) should be added ASAP for a tank this size. Clean them alternately>
Finally, the dreaded LS question. I have literally spent weeks researching the differences scientifically and through peoples opinions on whether or not silica based from Home Depot will be ok compared to aragonite based sand from Home Depot. 
<I'm not inclined to take the silica based product with only one skimmer on the tank>
I am in AZ, and as of yet have not found anyplace that carries Southdown, but many different silica based white sands. The general consensus seems to be that the silica based sands are definitely ok, with no true documented support to diatom outbreaks, but just don't offer the buffering advantages that aragonite does. 
<it is more believably speculated that the problem with silica sand is not leaching diatoms so much as it is the sharp angular shapes of grains compared to aragonite that makes silica algae prone. I have never enjoyed using silica sand>
Also, an overwhelming majority says the critters don't mind either way between sands. More than anyone else's opinion, I value yours. What are your thoughts on this apparently fairly controversial subject? 
<if you stick light, skim aggressively, don't overfeed.. etc.. I think the silica could easily work. Not my choice but little complaints>
Also, with you being in Diego Bob, is there any place out there that sells the Southdown? I am making a couple Diego trips in the very near future, and will pick some up if available. 
<hmmm... do check in with the SDMAS club members... they will know>
Unfortunately, even though I have mucho family in PA, I have no recent trips out there in my future (too bad, too 'cause I'd love to hear Anthony speak at the upcoming meeting).
<heehee... yes, lots of sand in PA.>
Thanks a ton for everyone's contribution to this hobby. It'd be a pleasure to meet you all sometime, maybe/hopefully over a few brews if you happen to make it to Phoenix again. Take care all...
.¸. , . .·´¯`·.
><(((º> `·.¸.·´¯`·...¸><(((º>¸
><(((º> ·.¸¸.·´¯`·...
Robert
<It will be a pleasure to share a brew and some chat one day with you my friend. Perhaps I will get to see Phoenix someday... else, I'll run into you at a MACNA I hope. Dallas this year. And hankerings for a cowgirl? Anthony Calfo>

New Tank Set-up
Hi, I had some correspondence with Anthony last week considering my soon to be 75gal tank. I've decided on the Eheim 2217 filter and was wondering about your thoughts on two things.
One, the Prizm protein skimmer
<Much better options available. Do read through our FAQ files regarding skimmers for opinions.>
and also I read in The Marine Aquarium Problem Solver by Nick Dakin that it is not good to start your tank out with the live rock in it. what are your feelings on this?
<To be blunt, it is wrong. Much more info here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/lrcurefaqs.htm and on the other linked pages.>
I had planned to put the live rock in at set up for it to be there while the tank cycled would it be better to wait?
<Much better and safer to cycle your tank with liverock and without fish for one month or more.>
was going to order it from ffexpress.com would greatly appreciate your thoughts on these things.
Colleen from Pittsburgh, PA (still trying to get a night out on the 26th.)
<The PMASI meeting is Saturday night at 6:00 PM on the 29th. We would be glad to see you. Bob is also giving a pitch to Elmer's Aquarium that morning. -Steven Pro>

Marine tank set up
Mr. Fenner,
I have been a novice marine person for years... about 7...I love your sense of humor, the Huma hot pad made me giggle...( after I actually got it...I'm slow)
OK here it goes...I took my last salt water tank down almost 6 years ago...I have NEVER even heard of a protein skimmer...and Fluvals were round. (the new one I just bought is a rectangle) I have set up a 45 tall as a fish only tank...I m way to scared of reef tanks (but that is what I REALLY want) 
<Then keep studying, and try some of the hardier invertebrates, macro-algae...>
I put two fish in it and its almost done cycling. of course now that I said that the ammonia will spike.. hehe.. the tank has a undergravel filter with a power head...when I stopped doing marine tanks...the "new thing" was reverse flow...I never tried that...but it gives you some idea how pre historic my info is...I have bought two books "Miniature Reef Aquarium in Your Home, and Dr. Burgess's mini atlas' I will look for a few more...any suggestions? 
<Please read the reviews posted on our site, starting here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ and searching through the Marine Index>
So. now I have a almost cycled tank and a new Fluval...but the catch is I haven't hooked it up..."this is where you shake your head"...I told you I'm slow...would you suggest that I wait until the tank is completely cycled or should I just fire that strange looking thing up right now...and the protein skimmer which I did buy... I know "too much money not enough brains" When the heck do I put that thing on?....
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/index.htm re set-up, skimmer operation...>
Oh one more thing. I have a Pseudochromis paccagnellae and a Chrysiptera cyanea in the tank now, didn't know about live rock, sand cycling, or adding ammonia (that seems scary to me) I guess I like torturing fish...eek not really... after reading your insert on Pseudochromis I guess I should have not done that I never would have expected they could be aggressive...so little and cute...I have always had larger aggressive type fish and really wanted a community tank...how many cute little fish would you suggest for a 45 gallon tank with a undergravel filter a Fluval and a protein skimmer established and well maintained of course? that's it for now... any suggestions would be appreciated. Cherrie Blincoe
<Much to discuss... for now, please read through WWM, use the search tool there to read about your set-up (esp. undergravel filters), and livestock selection. More fun, planning ahead. Bob Fenner>

A few questions (cycling)
Thank you so much for the answers to my last questions. They were very helpful yet there is still one thing I am confused about. Does the nitrogen cycle completely go from ammonia to nitrite to nitrate in both fresh and marine systems? 
<nope!>
I have been hearing different stories. I always thought it did, but someone told me different. Please clarify. 
<really too long to explain fully short of a scientific dissertation. Rest assured that many marine organisms can interrupt and exploit nitrogenous compounds at various stages (like corals and reef invertebrates drawing such elements by absorption for "food")>
I also have another question. as I read through some of your articles I saw something about tap water conditioners and how many are phony. Do they work? We sell a lot of "aqua plus" at my store. Does it do anything? If not, please give me some other suggestions. 
<indeed... any claim beyond simple dechlorination is quite suspect/dubious. The fundamental ingredient in all is sodium thiosulfate which is dirt cheap, highly effective and perhaps the only active/useful ingredient in all such products. Heehee... Weco "Dechlor" may me the best choice of all <G>>
Thank you so much, you are a life-saver. Thanks again, Yorgos Gregory
<best regards, Anthony Calfo>

RE: Saltwater Questions
Thank you for your input. Unfortunately, I am now very confused and unsure what to do. 
<I will try to clarify, improve this>
In my previous message I mentioned that I had recently re-setup my tank. When I was getting ready I went to my local shop and asked many question, most importantly about purchasing a wet/dry filtration system. The owner advised me not to go this way. I am unsure of his reasoning, 
<because if generates a lot of nitrates... I generally avoid them but in some heavily stocked systems or with large, messy fishes... it is the lesser of two evils (a very efficient biological filter in exchange for excess nitrates that require extra water changes to temper... which are necessary with large predatory fish like yours anyway>
but he took me in the back room and showed me that he is removing all the biomaterials and switching over to live rock in his sumps. 
<agreed that this is advantageous for more systems than not... but yours is an exception with a large predator. It can work on a dealers display with the same large predators because of the sheer amount of new seawater replaced through sales of fishes (effective water change) and the level of water changes necessary to hold a dealer's inventory. Such is not your case at home unless you are inclined to do weekly water changes (which would actually be ideal)>
I told him I wanted to make sure I was putting in the most effective system and he recommended the AquaClear 500 attached to the under gravel filters (in fact all of his systems have recently been upgraded to a similar system). 
<I cannot begin to describe to you how precarious and unreliable this system is. I can only stand by my recommendations for an upgrade based on many years of experience as not only an aquarist, but as a wholesaler who has handled many thousands of fishes and tens of thousands of gallons of seawater in the last decade. Two power filters hooked up to a UG with 1 1/2 inches of sand is an unstable fabrication of very antiquated technology. Do browse the forums and message boards for additional insight on this topic to help make your decision>
The AquaClear systems are using the foam sponges media in the bottom as you recommended with a charcoal bag in each box.
<Aquaclears are three stage units and I was in fact suggesting two foam blocks for extra biological filtration>
Please help me salvage what I have and make some choices on correcting my past sins. To get things started, how important is it that I add a sump (wet/dry) system? I relate well to numbers so could you please give me a rating of 1-10 along with you explanation., one being the most important.
<its all relative to your willingness to feed lightly, maintain a strict water change schedule (small weekly exchanges would be nice) and add no other fish to the display. So my recommendation to continue with your current filtration is influenced by the amount of work necessary in maintenance on your part to keep the system stable, its performance against other known filters and methodologies and the very history of such success with such filtration with large messy predators. Furthermore, my concern is compounded by the fact that undergravel filtration technology require that a substrate be at least three inches to work adequately. So even if I liked the UG setup, yours is flawed. Were you also advised that your foam blocks in the aquaclear need to be treated with great care and consideration for their role in this system. With the weak UG system, they will house a lot of your biological filter... so if you do not rinse and reuse them (in a bucket of tank water to be discarded) you will seriously impact your system negatively (loss of good bacteria colony) every time you replace a foam block or (heaven forbid) rinse it under tap water! My numerical estimate of your filtration is that on a scale of one to ten with ten being the worst.. this system is solid seven>
Depending on your answer here really scare's me since I have just spent $175 plus adding the AquaClear and under gravel system. 
<please make your next investment on a good and newer book on aquarium science. Recent works by Fenner, Tullock and Paletta can be highly recommended>
Next, I understand the importance of the protein skimmer and have planned on getting something. 
<indeed critical for high organic systems like yours (large grouper)>
I have been reviewing your recommendations and have started investigating the different hang on systems. Currently I am looking at the AquaC Remora. 
<a very fine choice>
I want to do a little more investigation since I am about 1" - 1-1/2" from having enough room across the back for this. I need to also investigate modifying my tank so I could possibly put it in the center support section. The answer to your first question will likely make all the difference in what I do here. If I end up with a sump system I will change my thinking and just add the skimmer to the sump. 
<indeed... sumps with bio-media or live rock are extremely convenient and effective. If you feel frisky, do check out the DIY sections on such filters, sumps, etc at www.ozreef.org>
Now I remember why I took a couple year rest from this hobby. There are so many opinions and options it is difficult to determine the best thing to so. 
<There certainly is not one recipe for success, just good ingredient. Please enjoy the journey <G>>
Unfortunately, it is the fish and checkbook that suffer the most from making the wrong decisions. After reviewing you replay on the fish, another question has come up on the grouper. I read about the toxic slime he will excrete if bothered by other fish. One of the articles recommended only putting triggers and the grouper together in a large system. How big do you recommend? 
<any tank mate must literally be the same size or larger! Such "groupers" are AMAZING predators (and will eat something LITERALLY as long as they are as I mentioned before)>
I was hoping to add a Picasso trigger. The grouper was in a 90G tank previously and they had no problems. If the grouper does start excreting the slime will it kill everything or will it only affect the animals that touch the slime? 
<rarely exuded but can kill everything including grouper>
Thanks again for all your help. Stacey Hippen
<best of luck! Keep reading, learning and enjoying. Anthony>

Re: Setting up new tank
Hi Bob,
<Anthony Calfo with the follow up>
Sure I would definitely find you and the experts about my adventure. 
Few of the thing I need to further verify,
Q1) As show in my diagram, the pvc pipe from my main tank to the refugium is not yet filter, what would you suggest whether to have it filtered first of directly go the refugium without filter, if I am keeping some cleaner station in the refugium ?
<I prefer raw water to feed a refugium (nourishes targeted planktons and vegetable/cnidarian matter
Q2) I went to the local fish shops and ask about the tanks. Some said that a 2 1/2 ft tall tank will crack if us a 10mm thick glass and advice to buy a 12mm thick glass. Is it true ?
<I would strongly agree and have at least small braces or stringer on the top as well>
Q3) If I allow much macro algae and diatom to grow on my refugium, will it help to reduce the possibility of having diatom in my main tank ?
<not necessarily... it is a bit of a juggling act. Diatom control is best done with careful control/efficiency of nutrient export processes (aggressive protein skimming, chemical filtration and water changes)>
Q4) If I grow lots of algae in my refugium, will it have any bad effect on my main tank (e.g. taking all the nutrient or any trace element needed by coral)
<indeed they will be competing with desirable organisms in the display. They will even be imparting some bad/noxious compounds of their own into the water (can be harmful to coral). If you want algae in your refugium... I would recommend only a modest amount or be prepared to compensate for the presence of heavy algae with more frequent water changes and rotation of chemical media (carbon, Polyfilters, exchange resins)>
Thanks! Regards, Danny
<best regards, Anthony>

From biosponge to the real thing
To you guys a toast! Mr. Fenner and associates, you guys are the best of the best! I was routed to your site by my thirst for knowledge and I have to tell you IT IS HEAVEN for a young apprentice like me! It's THE PLACE for beginners to PRO's like yourself. I started running my tank based on the information provided by you on this site. THANK you before hand for taking the time and putting your expertise in such an informative and awesome web site.
<Be sure to tell your fish friends.>
I'm sure you'll hear about me again, so I guess you and everybody else can call me: Costa Rica, so you remember me!! (it's where I am from).
Sorry about the lengthy e-mail... here are my specs:
TANK
55 g long
LIGHTING
660 icecap, powering 4 48" VHO's . 2 50/50 URI, and 2 super actinics URI.
FILTRATION
150g (Sea Systems) skimmer. I have a Hang on.
around 60 lbs mixed: Caribbean, Fiji, Haitian LR.
20 lbs aragonite for substrate (live sand).
20 lbs pink sand
<40 pounds of sand in a 55 should put you under 1" or 2.5 cm, which is fine.>
I don't have a sump but do I really need it?
<They are convenient for hiding things, holding a larger amount of water, and other benefits.>
I'm trying to run my tank with only biological filtration with the LR and the skimmer (BERLIN'S system). Is this an acceptable approach?
<One of the preferred methods.>
Is there any difference if I run the skimmer thru a sump?
<You are able to surface skim the water that goes to the sump. In that way, you concentrate organics for the skimmer to remove.>
Should I incorporate any other type of filtration? Mechanic?
Chemical? Any suggestions on an specific product?
<I like Boyd's Chemi-Pure and Polyfilters.>
WATER:
PH 8.3 (by Hagen), nitrate 0, nitrite 0, ammonia 0, (by Aquarium
Pharmaceuticals), cal 450, dkh 13.1,(both by Salifert) is there such a thing as to much calcium?
<Yes>
If so what's too high?
<Depends on your alkalinity. You should try to strike a comfortable balance and not try to push both to their extremes.>
500?? (snow precipitations?)
<Correct>
WATER MOVEMENT
1 1800CAP, and a RIO 1200. What's the best position for the 2 powerheads to make sure I do not get stagnant waters?
<Varies because of liverock structure. Just try to create turbulent water. Try several different directions until you come upon the right layout.>
TEMP
80f
QUESTIONS
I used to have what my LFS called a BIOSPONGE. It took about a 3rd of the tank and it works wonders for mechanical and biofiltration, but has no practical purposes for real reef keeping! It was by reading you and your awesome articles that I decided to start my best hobby yet and so I welcomed myself to REEF KEEPING! ANYWAYS, I had the sponge for about 7 months and the water was already cycled so when I got rid of it (the sponge), I wanted to keep the water or as much as I could (so I didn't start from scratch). I decided to keep 50%. I put the substrate and sand, and added some stress zyme to create a bloom and cycle the tank again. Added the LR and 2 weeks later a clown and a Diamond damsel, with a cleaning crew (10 turbo snails) and 2 hermit crabs! I was running 5 g water changes every 5 to 7 days but I read this might slow down cycling so now I'm just topping up with DI water. How do I know when my water is completely cycled?
<When ammonia and nitrite have reached zero, which according to the tests above, they have.>
And that is safe to add more livestock?
<Yes, do so slowly, about one fish per month. And of course, be sure to quarantine all new livestock.>
I am evaporating about 1 1/2 to 2 gallons of water every 2 to 3
days... is this normal evaporation parameters?
<Sounds fine. I lose about 1/2 gallon per day in my 55. All depends on your house humidity, temperature, and such.>
If not how can I avoid some without suffocating the gas exchange? Will diatoms (brown built up?) and excess protein fall off rocks with time?
<Diatoms usually disappear after the first month or two.>
And last but not least!! Kalkwasser or A + B? or both?
<I prefer Kalkwasser with a drip system.>
Thank you again for your precious and appreciated time! JOHN Costa Rica). PURA VIDA!
<You are quite welcome. -Steven Pro>

Setting up new tank
Hi bob and experts,
<Howdy>
Setting up a new tank, below are the configuration and top view of diagram attach.
<Nicely drawn>
Tank Setup
-----------
Main Tank - 4 Ft x 2.5 Ft x 2.5 Ft
(Main tank will consist of sand, live rock, plenum, hard & soft coral, little reef fish, invertebrate, cleaning station)
Refugium- 4 Ft x 1.5 Ft x 1.5 Ft (Old Tank)
(Refugium will consist of sand, live rock, plenum, sea cucumber, cleaning station)
Cleaning Tank - 1.5 Ft x 1 Ft x 1 Ft
(Nil – only water)
<All right>
Equipment Used
---------------
4 Powerheads
1 Chiller
1 Protein Skimmer
1 Air pump (For producing oxygen)
1 Normal white light (At Refugium)
1 Metal Halide (Main Tank)
1 Actinic Light (Main Tank)
Setting
-------
Actinic Light - (1000 hrs – 2200 hrs) – 12 hrs
Metal Halide - (1100 hrs – 2100 hrs) – 10 Hrs
Normal Light - (2200 hrs – 1100 hrs) – 12 Hrs (At Refugium)
Air pump - (1000 hrs – 2200 hrs) – 12 Hrs
Question
-----------
Q1) Please assist me to check whether can the system work ?
<Yes, good size on the refugium, nice to have the water tank of size, situated where it is>
Q2) Is there anything else to add or item that is not necessary ?
<Mmm, I would not add, or take away anything at this point>
Q3) Is the light setting too long or too short ?
<Right about where I'd have it... I might turn and leave on the actinic an hour earlier and later, ahead of the other lighting.>
Please help, thanks
Regards
Danny
<Thank you for writing. Do let us know how your adventure is going. Bob Fenner>