MarSetUpX

FAQs on Marine System Set-Up & Components 10

To Articles on: Marine Set-Up, Marine Planning, Getting Started with a Marine Tank By Adam Blundell, MS, Technology: Putting on the Brakes: How much is too much? By Tommy Dornhoffer Reef Set-Up, Fish Only Systems, Fish and Invertebrate Systems, Small Marine Set-Ups, Large Marine Systems, Cold/Cool Water Marine Systems, Moving Aquariums,


Small Marine Aquariums Book 1: Invertebrates, Algae New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 2: Fishes New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 3: Systems New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Interesting behaviour... of aquarist My wife and I are new to marine aquariums and are having a hard time finding out accurate information. I located your site and have been busy reading the faq's but I have need of a couple of answers quickly. <Okay> Tank; 29 gallon with a power head and whisper 30 filter Lights; dual 50/50 bulbs (added later, local dealer started us with a single bulb unit, first thing we had to do was get more light into the tank) Population: Fire Goby (1st fish), dusky angel (2nd fish), sebae clown (3rd fish), and a tail spot wrasse latest addition <This tank is too small for this mix> Corals; Pumping Xenia, Red mushroom rock, pink tipped green frogspawn, two feather dusters <... do you have a skimmer?> about 3lbs of live rock <Need more> The tail spot wrasse is the latest addition and has been showing some unique behavior. It has been trying to dig into the aragonite. I know it sleeps there at night. it seems to go to bed early in the evening, the same time every night. It may be just getting used to the new tank. He has been with us for 4 days now. <Not unique... this is what this species does> The newest feather duster we added on Saturday was opening up right away, even in the current. The duster was attached at the base and standing vertical. It was opening up and seemed to be adjusting well. Since yesterday morning it has not opened and I was wondering if we should be concerned. We had to move it over in the tank because it was getting knocked over by our fish. We have not observed the fish picking at the duster. The dusky seems to have developed a taste for green mushroom polyps. We were lucky to have our local supplier exchange the piece. We would like to add more coral to the tank and our concerned about our fish killing them. Any ideas would be helpful? <Keep reading, get a bigger tank, don't add any more livestock> We are currently looking to add a 5th fish and final one at that. We would like something colorful and social. Any ideas? <Add nothing... your system is too new, too overcrowded, under-filtered... too likely to crash> Glenn Shayer <Study my friend, enjoy what you have, observe it carefully. Bob Fenner>

Marine Aquarium Start Up A friend gave me a 55 gallon tank/stand before Thanksgiving and I decided to do a salt water tank. I looked at books and became totally confused, but happened upon the "bullet proof tank" and went for that. Beginning in November I made my "Aragocrete" rock, got my special sand, 3 power heads, etc. On March 23 I was ready to go and got the grunge and reef cleaners. All was well for about a week so I got a "hardy coral" pack (7 corals) and added it to the tank. Now everything is bad. The tank is covered with a green film that turned into red, slimy hairy algae, I haven't seen an active hermit crab in days (and there were at least 15). My population of snails (22+) are in various levels of activity and the corals are covered in goo and only a few of the corals seem ok ( a xenia, zoanthid, and a gorgonian). I have the current lights with a blue, white & moon glow deal going for 12 hours, the water at 78, salinity at 1.024, ph 8.0-8.2. On 4/25 the ammonia was 0, nitrite .25ppm (mg/l) and nitrate btw 0-5.0 ppm on the 4/27 the ammonia was at .50 ppm the nitrate and nitrite at 0, and today 4/30 the ammonia seems to be at .25 ppm with no nitrate, nitrite. Also when measuring the alkalinity we always get a reading of 0. My husband is about to pull the plug from my tank if I cant get it under control (I have a 2 yr old and a 4 year old and every one wants to know when we can have fish). The other deal is that it was only recently that I read on your page about chlorine in the tap water so prior to this week when I changed the water the top off water came directly from the tap into the tank......... Here are my specific questions Do I need to worry or try to get rid of the algae? Would it be helpful to add a sump as soon as possible (we are set up for one but I keep the water below the intake purposefully not to use it because it seemed better to try and deal with a contained tank)? Do we need additives (we have Prime and the whole SeaChem armada recommended by GARF)? Should we be changing the water at all now? Is there a simpler way to do less reef and get fish (fish was really our main goal)? <Becky, first off, you added corals too early. Before we answer specific questions, I suggest you go to this link and read. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marineSetUp.htm James (Salty Dog)> Thanks for your time. <You're welcome>

Almost Ready to Make My Big Purchase I am new to the marine aquarium, and I am almost about ready to dive in. You guys have been very helpful so far, and the CMA was a fantastic resource. Here is my set up, and forgive me first off with the size and no sump, but money and space are a big issue. I will be setting up: 1) a FOWLR 2) 40 gal breeder w/ 40lbs. of LR 3) Aqua C hot skimmer w/ the 1200 maxi jet 4) 2-3 powerheads 5) HOT filter w/ carbon that will run 3-4 days/month for mechanical & chemical filtration. Live stock: 1) pair of percula clowns 2) Royal gramma 3) 3 yellow tail damsels 4) Cherub angel 5) various cleaners (shrimp, hermits, snails, brittle stars) 6) Feather dusters >>Nix the damsels and your stocking list will be safer, they could get aggressive with the clowns and that little angel. Consider instead Chromis, small cardinals, or neon or clown gobies (small gobies). >Here are my questions: 1) Should I use a shallow sand bed >1 inch or a DSB <5 inches? >>Since you're going with no sump, I suggest a DSB. >2) I am not planning on buying live sand due to the purchase of LR, is this ok? Will the LR make the sand live? >>This is fine, it is likely this is how the purchased live sand became live in the first place. Cure the l/r first, then place in display, then add sand (aragonite or other calcareous is preferred), seed with piece of shrimp to start cycle and feed sand and l/r. When readings get to zero and nitrate is low, then you can begin stocking. >And is aragonite a good selection or should I use crushed coral? >>For DSB, sand is preferred to crushed coral. >3) Due to cost and heat output, I would rather not use compact fluorescents, are NO fluorescents (one 10,000K and one actinic blue) ok? >>Not familiar with N/O's that have a Kelvin rating of 10,000K, but if they exist they should be fine for the most part. Coralline algae does need available calcium, so aragonite would be preferable, as is good quality l/r. >Can I get coralline algae growth from this or do I need compacts? Do compacts throw off a lot of heat? >>I believe that it isn't the lights themselves that put out so much heat as it is the ballast that does. To the best of my knowledge the ballast can be located somewhat remotely, depending on the setup of the power compacts. It is my opinion, however, that in the long run you'll be happier with the pc's. Contact a good lighting supply, such as hellolights.com (or one of our sponsors) and ask them these questions as they ARE the "experts". Best of luck to you! Marina

Question (marine aquarium set-up) Hi There Bob I have a bit of a strange question for today.. I have been in the Marine aquarium hobby for about a year now. Today I am still as excited about it as I was the first day, but unfortunately I am also very despondent about it right about now. I have spent thousands of dollars, read hundreds of articles and books, spent hundreds of hours working on my aquarium and I am just not having any success. <Really? Please explain, define> I am really looking for someone who I can explain my whole setup to, ask a bunch of questions, etc. Unfortunately there are not many "experts" in this country (South Africa) and my only option is really the internet, places like WetWebMedia etc. I want to write my whole story down in an email, maybe with pictures etc. ask all the questions I want to ask and send this off to someone who can go through it and give me some advice. I believe it would be unfair to expect this for free because someone will spend more than just a couple of minutes on it), so I am not going to send this to your great free service (which I have used too many times already). My question to you is this - Is there any way that I can pay some sort of consulting fee or make a donation or something to get an hour or so of someone's time to go through my mail, answer my questions etc. In other words - do you have some kind of pay service where you charge people $xxx per hour for personal support/consulting ? <Mmm, appreciate the offer, but not necessary to "pay" in this way. Do send on your entire relating of experiences, graphics, insights... will very likely prove to be a boon to many others, including ourselves> If not, do you know of any other places on the web that offer such a service ? I hope my question makes sense.. <It does my friend. How to semi-respond in a substantive measure here? In the mid-nineties I was self-confronted with a similar desire/challenge... how to "make known" what I felt/thought should be... via the Net... and not liking (then or now) "Contact Management Systems" as such, came up with the ever-changing (hopefully improving) WWM sites... that have articles, graphics and soon much more (e.g. video) rather than much simpler and less-useful "answers" to at times necessarily narrower sets of circumstances, queries that would aid and inspire others... As time has gone on/by, have happily recruited others (friends, new and older associates) to help in generating, posting, making accessible content here. I do understand. Bob Fenner> Thanks, Chris

RE: Question Hi Bob <Chris> Thanks very much for the kind reply. I believe I have also learnt a life lesson today. I guess I feel guilty to "abuse" someone's knowledge without giving something in return, but I guess it can be compared with my parents - the only way I can repay them for all they have given me is by giving the same to my children one day, so I'll remember this when next somebody ask me for advice about something. <You repay the world my friend by becoming, being yourself. This is enough... all I ask is that you share yourself in return> Still, I would like to make you another offer - my wife and I are both in the IT industry and she has her own Web/Graphic designing company - if we can ever help you out with your website in any way, we would be glad to do so. Whether you want a log/graphic or some kind of webpage - just let me know please. <Ahh, thank you very much. I am barely "literate" in computer matters, and am thankful to have others on the Net who help for sure> I'll type my aquarium saga for you now, you'll probably have it in 45 minutes or so. Thanks again, Chris <Looking forward to it. Bob Fenner>

My Aquarium Hi Bob Here is my story.. I started off with a 1.2 meter (68 gallon) tank - I had no overflow/sump, a very poor air-driven skimmer and a hang-on Aquaclear filter, crushed coral as substrate and some dead rocks I collected from the beach, no live rock. I went through a 5 week cycle with no fish and just some bacteria in a bottle solution. I mixed my own saltwater and used normal tapwater to which I added some "dechlorinator" I bought. This tank was a disaster - the skimmer hardly functioned, there was not nearly enough waterflow with only the Aquaclear and it was an absolute nightmare trying to work this system without a sump. I now know I did everything wrong here - I added too many fish too soon (2 or 3 new fish every week) with no quarantine. When I started adding fish my problems started almost immediately - I had an outbreak of white spot, I managed to remove all my fish and quarantine them at the only LFS in town, where 8 of the 10 fish survived. So I did a lot of research and decided to start over, I bought a bigger tank because I believed that the more water I had the better, so my new setup looks as follows: (I hope you don't mind if I quote meters, litres, kilograms and Celsius) <With you so far... does sound like you're aware of all root causes of trouble listed> Tank - 2 meter x 45cm wide x 60cm high = about 135 gallons with overflow box. 90 Litre sump with a strong 5000 litre/hour return pump. Berlin Original Skimmer with 800 litre/hour pump. 2 x Regent 2000 Powerheads (2000 litre/hour) 40 kilograms of live rock and 20 kilograms of "bio rock" 4 x 60watt Fluorescent Light, which runs about 12 hours a day. Overflow box is filled with bioballs. I have a 90 litre quarantine tank, which has the Aquaclear filter on it now, with 2 pieces of live rock. <Okay> I have access to clean seawater, which I can fetch from a large aquarium nearby and I also found a source for RO water, so I feel a lot better about my water quality this time. <All right> My LFS installed and set the tank up for me and he has done the following things which I am not so sure about: Sump configuration : I've drawn you a picture of what my sump looks like, there is also a picture of the so called "coral chips" attached to this message. <Yes, looks like coral "rubble"> Substrate : Instead of sand or crushed coral he used something that looks like a combination of crushed coral and coral chips there are some very small pieces and some bigger pieces that looks a lot like the coral chip picture attached, its about 3/4 to 1 inch think, just enough to cover the glass. Cycle : He used some kind of enzyme to cycle the tank and added 5 Chromis a few days later, ever since then I have never detected a trace of ammonia or nitrites in the water, it has been about a 6 weeks now. I keep my specific gravity at 1.023 and my temperature at about 25.5 Celsius. One week later I added 1 x Picasso triggerfish Two weeks later I added 2 x Centropyge flavipectoralis (Yellowfin Dwarf Angel I think) and 1 x Powder Brown Tang <The latter... Acanthurus nigricans likely, can be a handful. Very disease prone.> And 2 weeks later I added 2 x Tomato Clown and 1 x Salarias Goby I also added 2 hermit crabs, 1 small lobster and 1 carpet anemone. <Yikes, the last two can be big trouble... the "bug" may eat most everything/one, and carpets can sting, poison a system...> I quarantined all the fish for 2 weeks, but I could never get the water in the QT just right, no matter what I did I kept on seeing Nitrites, so I would say the QT was probably not a good experience for them. <Maybe better than introducing a pathogen though> The trigger was very peaceful, but when I added the 2 clowns, trigger immediately started biting them very viciously and I had to make a quick plan, my quarantine tank seems to be going through a cycle (it has very high nitrites), so the only thing I could do was put the trigger in the sump. Both clowns were injured and I thought none of them would survive it, but they are still very much alive, despite all the scars. The two Angels have some sort of a thing for the crabs and the lobster, every now and again they turn their sides to the lobster/crab and "flap" their fins at it, the fish is perfectly still in the water, very close to the other animal, it looks like some kind of aggressive stance. <Actually, you describe so well an "invitation" by these fishes to be cleaned... they mistook the crustaceans as potential symbiotic shrimps... You would do well to remove the lobster (and crabs if they're big enough to be a worry) and add one or two Lysmata...> The lobster did not enjoy this very much and kept on defending himself with his claws. The next day I noticed some marks on the one angel and I was sure that it was an injury from the lobsters claws nipping at him. I also noticed some holes in his fins with some white spots. So I figured the lobster is definitely damaging the angels, stressing them out at least. <Yes> So to try and prevent another disaster I removed the lobster and put him in the sump also. The one angel now has Popeye in his one eye and both have marks on them I cannot identify. <All related to the incident with the lobster... plus perhaps some other input> The other angel's mouth has changed color from black to brown, which also confuses me. The angels and the powder brown still do the fin flapping thing whenever they encounter one of the hermits and they are also continuously picking at the anemone and I have no idea if they are eating it or just picking stuff off it. <A little of both> My goby was very much alive the one day and just gone the next day. I have looked all over for him, he is gone. I am convinced that he was eaten by the anemone, because when I noticed he disappeared I also noticed that the anemone was closed and it certainly looked as if it was eating something. <Likely so... happens all the time... or jumped out> I am seeing some white spots on the Powder Brown's mouth and both him and the 2 Angels scratch themselves against rock every couple of minutes. At the moment I am treating the tank with a product called "Myxazin" from Waterlife, which the LFS recommended, my skimmer is turned off, it has been 5 days now. I think the one angel is getting some color back in his mouth and the Popeye one looks a little bit better, but if there has been a change it is only very slight. The 5 Chromis still look very happy. <Okay> I have a huge algae problem - it looks just like diatoms, but its green. From the pictures I saw it looks very much like Cyanobacteria. This stuff spreads so quickly, I clean all the glass and just hours later its green again. The only places I don't get green stuff is where the powerheads blows directly against the glass, where the current is very very strong. It looks beautiful on the live rock, but its a nightmare on the glass. My skimmer is producing a lot of foam and although I don't have a phosphate test kit, I didn't think that I could have such a huge phosphate buildup already. So here I am - 2 animals in my sump and each fish in my main tank seem to have a different type of disease/injury and I have to clean algae every day like a maniac. <Easy to understand and see how all this happens... very common course of events... adventures in mis-stocking... stress added to stress... and its manifestations... and not too difficult to rectify...> I don't know, I guess I'm just upset with myself for seemingly getting it all wrong again this time around, for listening to the LFS when he says that this species will be friendly with that species etc and overall negative because I cant seem to figure what I am doing wrong. I have done a couple of water changes, I do topups every day and test my water. The things I can test like Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate look perfect, I monitor my PH and Alkalinity daily and also my calcium. I give them a wide variety of foods they eat up very eagerly, I literally spend hours with the tank every day. The one thing I am very scared about is that I have a disaster on my hands with my substrate - it looks beautiful and the algae growing on the bigger pieces are lovely, but from what I have seen in your articles it worries me a lot that the grains are not small and that I am going to have a massive detritus problem. I am really hoping that I don't have to replace this. <You don't have to... but I likely would in time... to a smaller substrate... of about an inch depth... to aid in alkaline reserve, provide biomineral content (Ca, Mg, Sr), and stabilize pH...> I am definitely not buying anything anymore unless I have a main tank full of very healthy fish and a QT with perfect water conditions, so for now I am just waiting, observing and medicating. Bob, I think I'll leave it at that for now and take one step at a time from here, thank you very much for reading this. Kind Regards Chris Cronje <Thank you for sending all along. Now, here's my overall opinion, suggestions/what I would do: I would trade the trigger, lobster and carpet anemone back in for sure (or all the other organisms in your main tank, and then we can chat up changing the system for their care instead). I would modify your sump to make it into a refugium (please see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm and the linked FAQs beyond. I would add a small lighting fixture there (most anything of aquarium use will do fine) and culture a bit of macro-algae there and in your main system (Do read on WetWebMedia.com for choices here). I would get/use an alkalinity test kit and adjust with simple baking soda additions (sodium bicarbonate) till you have about 8-10 meq/l of same. The last two will in time turn the tide on your algae problems. I would add the Cleaner Shrimp mentioned to make the environment overall better, clean up your tropical fishes... I would add a good two hundred grams (in a Dacron bag) of activated carbon (to the sump/refugium)... And I might scoop and siphon out the present coral rubble substrate and replace it with up to a couple of cm. of fine coral sand... and add a sand sifter (like the goby you lost)... along with... my favorite: a nice Algae Blenny, Atrosalarias or Salarias spp. which will do a good to restore your faith, humour and get rid of the algae... Please do read over my comments, make a plan for adapting, adopting them... and above all "keep your eyes on the prize"... You are not that far off from having a fine time with your hobby. Correct the set-up and stocking mis-starts and in a surprisingly short period of time (a few weeks to a couple of months) all will be well. Assuredly, Bob Fenner>

Chesapeake Bay Tank Hello Reef Gurus, Greetings from Tidewater ,VA ! I already have a 70 gallon tropical reef tank, but last week I was given a 55 gallon tank & stand, which I wanted to set up as another reef, but my wife reminded that we have 2 children in diapers & reef tanks ain't cheap! (she always foils my plans- aarrgh!!). So in lieu of a reef tank, I am setting it up as a local Chesapeake Bay tank, complete with live rock & sand from the bay. Nothing like free! So here are my questions- The tank is being run by an Emperor 400 with bio-wheels, lighting is supplied by a 110 watt compact fluorescent, and 2 free hanging powerheads for circulation- is this enough filtration/lighting? <Seems adequate.> Right now the tank has 4 pieces of "live rock", mostly covered in green & red macro algaes with some small anemones, tube worms, and barnacles. Other than small hermits and snails, the rest of the livestock will be locally caught fish- from the minnow seine of yours truly! You would be shocked to see the fish we are catching off the beach, juvenile puffers, pipefish, seahorses, lookdowns, spadefish, filefish, various jacks , and sometimes "lost pelagics"- i.e. butterfly fish & other cool stuff that swims into the bay during the summer. <Yes, I have heard many stories of Caribbean fish wandering to far North during the summer.> I am wondering if I could/should use LSB using local live sand, <Sure, but stay thin, less than 1" deep as an experiment.> do I need a skimmer for the plant rock, <It would be nice.> and is this enough light for the rock as well? <Seems ok, but your growth or lack there of will them you shortly.> Right now the bulbs are 10k. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanking you in advance, Joshua Scialdone <Please see here for some additional information, http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cold.htm -Steven Pro>

Help! Protein Skimmer Bob, As a gift, I recently (about 3 weeks ago) got a 40 gal SeaClear (I think) with the built-in wet/dry and chambers in the back for mechanical filtration, the heater and a chamber for the protein skimmer, along with the sump area. The tank is in the middle of cycling right now, so I trying to get some reliable info on a skimmer. I plan on having only a few fish, mostly live rock and maybe some corals. I was told (by LFS) not to bother with the Sea Clone unit that fits in to the chamber in the back, I won't be happy with it. <Agreed> I should look at a Prizm or Berlin. The Sea Clone was around $80 and the Prizm about $120. The cost isn't a big factor. I was wondering if there I can install any in-sump model into that space (approx. 5x5 or so), or should I go with a HO unit? With the HO, I will have to custom cut my canopy to make room? Any suggestions? Thanks in advance, Jeff <Well-written... and sorry to state, though I consider myself good friends with the four partners who own/operate SeaClear, their built-in filtration units stink... they're almost non-functional, not trustworthy, and a pain in the keester to try to clean, work on... If it's not too late, trade the tank/system back in for just one of their tanks... and/or look into either a hang on skimmer et al., or better, look into (see the mass of marine aquarium filtration articles and FAQs stored here on our site starting here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/filtration/marineFiltr.htm an under tank sump/refugium arrangement. Be chatting, Bob Fenner>

RE: Help! Protein Skimmer Bob, Man, thanks for the quick response! I was afraid you were going to say something like that. Unfortunately, I can't return the tank (it's already setup & cycling). <Rats!> I figured that I could use this small tank as a learning experience (tank was free), and once I get more familiar with everything, and find space, I would go for a larger tank with a separate sump setup. <Hard to beat free> Any issues or problems I run into with this one will be considered a "learning experience" and valuable knowledge gained for future use. <A wise stance> I've heard/read about people removing the bio media for the wet/dry and using it as a sump or refugium. Would using this approach make any improvements? <Not much here... the shape, size, accessibility of the "compartments" behind/part of these system tanks really makes for some operational difficulties... As previously stated, I would augment what is there, treat the area behind the tank ostensibly as dead space, build real filtration in another space/area> Is there a benefit to having a HO skimmer over a sump model, such as a Berlin Turbo? Jeff <Yes... real benefits to having "real" skimming. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marphysf.htm Bob Fenner>

Sub tidal zone Aquarium habitat Hello, I am interested in turning a 20long or larger tank into a sub tidal zone habitat. I think it will be a good learning experience for myself as well as my children. Do you have any insight into resources and how to set up such a tank. <Mmm, interesting... something in the way of a fill/drain system plus maybe a twice-daily partial empty/fill mechanism to mimic two uneven (or so) tides?> I have just started searching the net and have found very little. Will the basic aquarium equipment be the same as any other tank or will there be special needs? <Most all the typical gear will be needed... and all pumps, heaters inside the system mounted low of course. Perhaps the simplest would be a rig of two principal components... a container higher than the system to accommodate the shorter term "wave action" (there are a few designs here... pls see: http://www.ozreef.org/) and a lower container that you can hang an airline tubing siphon to (securing it not too low in the main tank) with a pump in the lower sump on a float switch that will "turn on" when the siphon fills it to a certain level (not too high, lest the tank drain too much, break the siphon), and turn itself off when the lower sump is mostly empty). An interesting project. Bob Fenner> I appreciate any help. Thanks, Daniel

New Tank I'm a beginner who has some experience with tropical tanks. <You really mean tropical, freshwater tanks. Sorry, a pet peeve of mine. Tropical merely refers to the temperature of the water. There are tropical freshwater and saltwater tanks.> I recently purchased a 120 gallon tank and I'm looking to set it up as a salt water fish only tank. I would like to get equipment which will allow me to change to a reef tank down the road. I have been reading books and researching the net for information on salt water tanks. I'm wondering if you have any suggestions on filtration? <Liverock, livesand, protein skimming, and a refugium> I have learned about the 3 types of filtration biological, mechanical, and chemical) and need to get some advice on selection. I plan to use 100 lbs of live rock for biological filtration. Is this good? <Sounds about right.> What type of substrate should I use? <Depends on the fish, but most reef style fish would do well with a deep sand bed of fine sugar grade sand at 4-6" deep.> I'm thinking about purchasing a CPR CY194 which is good up to a 200 gallon tank. Is this a good unit? Would it provide mechanical and chemical filtration if carbon was added? <A protein skimmer would fall under the category of chemical filtration in my mind. Activated carbon would too, but neither is mechanical filtration.> Would this filtration be ok for a reef tank down the road? <Sounds ok.> Any advice would be great. Regards, Mike <Good luck. -Steven Pro>

System setup Anthony, thanks for great info. <Steven Pro with the follow up. Anthony is kind of swamped with roofing for the day.> I am in the process of setting up my 75 gal again. Before it was a FO, then I made up my mind to go FOWLR for all around better quality of life. Now I'm studying/researching to make my tank a reef (a few soft corals, mushrooms at first). But before I go that direction I am wanting some input I the things I have done so far and what I am planning on doing. <Ok> First, I had my tank drilled. Two 1.5" bulkheads on each corner of tank about 3-4" below surface of water. <Good. Those will allow for some pretty brisk water flow.> Now some questions. I am thinking about adding a shutoff valve after the bulkheads so the gravity pull of water won't overfill the sump if for some reason pumps were turned off. Good/Bad idea? <Bad idea. Just plan for the water level lowering and flowing into the sump and use a decent size sump. A 30 gallon tank should work fine.> Now the sump. Am trying to design my own. Looking at using a clear Rubbermaid container. Having the flow of water from the 2 bulkheads on the tank into the Rubbermaid sump under the cabinet. In the sump will be putting an Aqua-C EV skimmer, or now, if I have more room in the sump for a bigger footprint the Euroreef (more on that later). One problem I'm having is how to make some dividers or baffles in this particular sump made from Rubbermaid. <Yes, why I said these work almost as well.> Any suggestions? <Use another tub, slightly smaller and elevated inside the larger tub.> I would like to incorporate some mechanical as well as the potential for chemical filtration in the sump. <Ok> Return to main tank with Mag 9 pump with two bypasses for a spray bar on each end of the tank shooting towards each other. I want to add a float switch in sump hooked to a Rio for top-off/evaporation. <Ok, not my preference. I use a Kent Aquadoser and fill it up nightly. Slightly more work, but completely fool proof.> One last problem I am having with sump/skimmer. If I were to put the skimmer in-line instead of in the sump how would this be done in regards to the whole sump. Researched the site and even have the users manual for Aqua-C and still having problems. I can't get it through my head how this works. <Me neither.> The skimmer needs a certain contact time (275 gph) or so, but water into sump flows more than this and I need a lot more that 275 gph for the return to tank. <Ok, now I understand what you want to do. You should never run your skimmer off of your return pump. You usually need some fine adjustment with a skimmer pump and teeing off the return pump is a bad idea.> Do you run a separate line to the skimmer, let it feed to the sump and then the bulkheads go directly to the sump? I am very confused. Thanks again, Bryan

Set up advice Hello! Could I borrow 1 watt of your brain power for some rather mundane questions? <Sure> I have been bitten in the a$$ big time, by the reef bug and although I have yet to purchase any inverts, I intend to once the tank is mature (instead of just cycled) <Ahh! Nice to hear. You shall be rewarded with many interesting hitchhiking critters.> I am especially coveting the idea of an anemone. <Okay, not the easiest thing. They are rather challenging, actually.> I'm investing in some improvements and was hoping for your rubber stamp. It is a 33 Long, with a 55 gallon base, shallow height. I have PC 220W (2 55W full spectrum, 2 actinic) 45 lb live rock, 40 lb live sand, submersible heater. I am upgrading the Prizm hang-on protein skimmer and Emperor hang-on filter with an Eheim canister, the last part of the model number is --17, I forget the first 2 digits, but it is graded for 160 gallon tanks and 200 gph and a Bak-Pak 2 skimmer with the biosubstrate compartment. <Ok> I just wanted to be sure that I am not over filtering or over skimming on my 33 Gallon? <The Eheim is very nice, but probably not needed. I might consider leaving it out and using that money towards a better skimmer.> Also, I am running (2) 200 Rio powerheads, facing each other slightly offset across the back wall (each attached to the side). I have been reading about random water and have a wave timer power strip on the way. However, is this a fire hazard? <Which the Rio's or the wavemaker? Ha-ha-ha. They should both be fine.> I'm afraid of all that on off stuff and already there is so much plugged in... With such a small tank could I use powersweeps instead in the same positions? <Please leave the Powersweeps at the store.> If so, what size? Lastly... I want the easiest anemone who might tolerate some mushrooms, and button polyps as well as anthelia and star at other parts of the tank. <I would strongly encourage you to not purchase an anemone. This is a very small tank and the other inverts you want are some of the most aggressive, invasive, and noxious. Anemones should go into anemone tanks, where they do not have to compete and can be given dedicated care.> I read the bubble tip wanders less. Should I look forward to one? I really wanted a Percula pair and they don't know the bubble tip. Can I give up on this anemone for a better Percula suggestion, or do you advise I stay with the bubble tip and buy maroons? All in the future... I am taking it slow, I'm just obsessed. :) Thank you, kindly! Brooke <Keep reading and learning my friend. -Steven Pro>
Re: Set up advice Thank you so much for your reply! What if I kept NO corals? <Perfect> Could I have an anemone then? I have something like 8 watts to the gallon, and the tank is shallow? <Yes, lighting was not your problem in the previous question.> I'm just giving it my best shot. I really love them and I would baby them. But if you say no, I'll sulk and then buy the corals, LOL. -Brooke <Good luck! -Steven Pro>
Re: Set up advice Oh you made me so happy, thank you! I'll study, study, study. Lastly, I have switched the skimmer choice to the Remora, at your suggestion. Thank you. <A very nice skimmer.> About the canister, do you think that Eheim particular canister is overdoing it? <No, I don't think you need any additional filtration other than the liverock, livesand, and skimmer. Or do you think the Emperor with some Chemi-Pure and Eheim biosubstrate is good enough? <Not needed.> What about my gph? <Two 300 gph powerheads with excellent prefilters to stop any wandering anemones from getting damaged. Something like the Hagen Quickfilters would be a good option.> The canister is stronger. I wasn't sure if you were saying any new filter is not needed, or just that one. <Any. -Steven Pro>
Re: Set up advice --- Oh you made me so happy- thank you! I'll study study study. Lastly...I have switched the skimmer choice to the remora- at your suggestion- thank you - .....about the canister. .... Do you think that Eheim particular canister is overdoing it? Or do you think the Emperor with some Chemi pure and Eheim biosubstrate is good enough? <Eheim products are far more reliable IMO> What about my gph? The canister is stronger. <greater flow is almost always better> I wasn't sure if you were saying any new filter is not needed, or just that one. <in tanks with low to medium bio-loads such filters can be somewhat redundant biologically when enough live rock is used. However, they are quite handy and reliable for chemical filtration. If you have the means, add it please. If nothing else, it can run on your tank as a conditioned and ready filter if the need for a QT tank arises. Anthony Calfo with the follow up>

Set-up (See you in the Louvre... section) The Louvre was mentioned on your website http://www.wetwebmedia.com/reef2.htm in the FAQ section under the subtitle "Is Plexiglas OK in saltwater? <<Ahhh, ok. I see now.>> It is also referred to as egg crate. <<and this is the term I am familiar with.>> I was wondering whether it should be level with the sand, above the sand or have a space between it and the sand for the critters to clean under and for me to blow the detritus out from under. <<Hmmm, I am personally not a fan of this type of aquaria management... better to get some Nassarius snails and their ilk to help keep the substrate clean. But... you can use eggcrate if you please, and I would place it in small pieces on top of the substrate - the goal here being to elevate the live rock for easy cleaning.>> By the way - I have been to the Paris "Louvre" - neat place - didn't have enough time though to see it all. <<Don't I know that one... it's hard to soak something like that in all in one day.>> Thanks <<You are quite welcome. Cheers, J -- >>

Upgrading tank Hello Bob, <Steven Pro in this evening.> I am considering replacing my 50 gal reef with a 90 gal reef. I want to accommodate growing corals and fish. I don't want to go larger, if possible, for expense and simplicity. <Ok> Current tank is run with a CPR Bak-Pak, 3 powerheads, and 9 watt UV. It has 275 watts of PC lighting. My questions are: Can I keep Bak-Pak and add another or a Prism? <Yes, yes and no, respectively.> Add one more powerhead for circulation? <Depends on sizes corals, and fish, about 900-1800 gph total.> Keep present lights and add more bulbs. <Sure> How many additional bulbs? <Do the math. 275 watts in a 50 vs. how many watts for a 90. Plus, round up because the 50 is only 18 inches deep and the 90 is 24.> I would like to add a CPR hang on refugium, what is your opinion on these? <Sounds like a good idea.> I really like the simplicity of the 50 i.e. water change ease, no sump with intricate plumbing, and calcium reactors, etc. I just add two part additive, iodine and strontium. I change 5 gallons of water every other week. I don't really want to go larger then 90 because I don't want to start with sumps, metal halides, etc. <Ok> Any advise greatly appreciated. Mario <Please see notes above. -Steven Pro>

G'day from Australia Hello to all the helpful people at WWM, <And hello to you.> First off, I would like to thank you all for the great site (what I have seen of it). I am new to the salt water hobby and would just like to ask a question or two if that's ok. <Shoot> I have a 109 gallon show tank (48x24x24) with a 31 gallon sump - utilizing 10 gallons of bio balls. Yes, I know you don't like bio-balls but I'm just pacing myself till I try live rock. <It is not that we do not like bio-balls. They have there place. It is just that they contribute to nitrate problems and many times are unneeded due to many hobbyists wishing to incorporate some liverock anyway.> In the way of pumps, I have a sump return of approximately 762 gph and a powerhead filter of 558 gph. I also have a small protein skimmer rated for 90 gallons (bit small I know). <And that is assuming the manufacturer has not overstated what the skimmer is able to do.> My questions are this: can I keep 2 volitans lionfish in this tank until fully grown? (if not I'll just stick to one) <Two adults could be housed in here, but there would be nothing else.> Do you know of any breeds of clownfish I can keep with lions (so they grow big enough not to eat) <An adult lionfish is over a foot and able to swallow very large prey items, no clownfish would be safe.> And lastly, do you consider this water turn over (current) strong enough or do I need more power heads? On a final note, I am just happy to have found your great site and I hope its gets bigger and better as the years go by. <We will do our best.> Thanks all for the advice, Clint <You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Re: Twilight/Deepwater tank/Experiment ideas (re: Anthony) Anthony, One last e-mail before I gather up supplies and start my heavy research. I hope you won't mind this. In you last response you said that I might fare better with providing the fire shrimp a homey environment by having just red coral and fish. Did you mean only red pigmented animals? <just a quirky idea... yes, red pigmented animals most often come from deep water where red is quite muted and blends with landscape. Flame angels, flame hawkfish, blood shrimp, etc> If you were to choose a region where I could focus my attention on (IE: light duration, inhabitants, temp., depth etc..)? <actually.. I'd skip the red fishes and do a Caribbean deepwater reef. Blue Chromis, Swiss guard or blackcap Basslets, tiny rare hamlets... many cool Atlantic species and very unique> Thank you again! Would you like to see my progress as I go along (I will be building the stand and hood & DIY skimmer and reactor)? Don Greyston <please do send resized (small-med) pictures! Best of luck! Anthony>

Experiment ideas (... a twilight tank... breeding Fire Shrimp) Good afternoon crew <cheers, mate> I hope this email finds you well. I wish to first start off my e-mail by saying what an inspiration your web site has been for my wife and I. A wealth of knowledge and experience has been gained in the two years I have frequented your site. <excellent! Do spread the good word> I have kept fresh water tanks as well as planted tanks for 10 years. Saltwater fish only and reef tanks for 6 years. As of right now I have a 90 gallon reef (SPS dominated) a 125 gallon FOWLR, 20 gallon long planted, a 10 gallon nano reef (softies) and have managed to keep a 1.5 gallon micro reef for 6 months. Each tank is doing better then I could dream. Thanks to a garage dedicated to prep and maintenance equipment. I moved from breeding fresh water to salt water fish. I love above all others breeding clowns. Premnas biaculeatus, A. ocellaris, and Percula. I have bred Gobiosoma oceanops with much success. Also my 5 year old cleaner shrimp's give a yield now and then. And though nothing came of it my pair of mandarinfish spawned. <all wondrous sights to behold... keep up the good work! Document and photograph too please> My question for you today is not about the above tanks. It is about a tank yet to be. You see I have another 20 gallon long as well as a 10 gallon tank sitting around. Leftover lighting equipment that could be used on them are extensive. From 175 watt MH, PC, VHO as well as two smaller versions PC lights for the 10 gallon tank. I am in need of a project. To experiment and try something new. In my reef tank I am hoping to have a pair of fire shrimp spawn, but I need something more. I don't feel very much like having more fish to breed, and my coral fragging is a bi monthly event. Would you (Bob, Anthony, JasonC, StevenPro, and others who would care to make a suggestion) have a worth while experiment I could try? I am open to any ideas. I am fully prepared to be 100% dedicated to what ever I choose. To write about my findings or failures to hobby magazines or just to post around the BB's and fine web sites like yours. <the first thing that comes to mind will be just perfect for your fire shrimp... a Twilight Reef tank. A system either featuring the shy dusk/night denizens or even better.. the deepwater denizens. Heavy blue light by day and even some red-light by night to spy many inverts that cannot see red light. If you want corals as well... Red Chili corals and orange sun Tubastrea fare very well in such well fed species tanks. The small tank size will allow such heavy feedings through easy and more frequent water changes. In a Twilight reef, you will get to see creatures and behaviors rarely seen under daylight in reef aquaria. Many interesting fishes to be had too. Swiss guard Basslets, Venralis Anthias, blackcaps, cardinals, Helfrich Firefish, etc> I know that you all are famous for a quick reply. I really don't need one if that matters. :) If all of you could give an idea great! If one has the time just as well. I just need some ideas and a little more inspiration if you can give it. Thank you Don <best regards, Anthony Calfo>

Aquatic systems Hello Guys. I have a quick question. I have been researching your site and love all the info. I was wondering if you happen to know of any books or even other sites that show pictures/diagrams of putting aquatic systems and components together. There are some things I have a hard time visualizing when putting all my components together and would like something to look at w/ the descriptions. Thanks again Bryan <Aquatic Systems Engineering by PR Escobar... http://www.premiumaquatics.com/thestore/prods/DEVICES.html outstanding coverage of the topic. Dry read but excellent content!!! kindly Anthony>

Lessons Learned and Shared Mr. Calfo, <cheers, Daron> While moving my aquatic guests from my 30 gallon back into the 72 gallon aquarium this weekend, I was thinking about how much help I've received from Bob, Steven, and especially you over the past year. I have made so many mistakes in this time, and your advice has always saved lives. <very redeeming to hear. Thank you! Our intent, in part, for certain> I've learned: Foremost, I learned that my place in this hobby is as a 'casual aquarist' - I am willing to spend a few hours working every week so that I can spend an hour a day listening to music, watching my fish. I don't want to be a slave to the aquarium, but am willing to work for the enjoyment. The enthusiasm and newness has worn off, but not the eagerness or fascination. <very sensible... knowing boundaries and not turning this or any pleasurable hobby into a chore. Respect for life and enjoyment at large. Carry on gently> Quarantine Choose your stocking plan wisely, and stick to the plan Choose only species that you are currently equipped to care for Choose hardy specimens - both by species and individual Light bio-loads Any rash decision will likely be wrong. Slow down and analyze before acting. <yes... good things take time to develop... bad things can happen fast> Live Rock, Skimming, and water changes Stability, stability, stability. No matter how cool many animals look, most are best left on the reef. (That's what my PADI cert. is for.) <agreed... especially these crack addict friends of mine/fellow aquarists keeping sharks, parrotfish, etc> Maybe most importantly, I've learned to spot the charlatans. I thank you. <very welcome my friend> Now, that my aquarium is basically back to where it was 9 months ago, I can move forward. This time, I will be a little smarter. <very important to work smarter, not harder, as we get older... best regards to you in this endeavor> Daron, who is sure to get an early copy of your book - in September, right? <my pleasure... we, the Wet Web Media crew, have a lot of stuff going on right now you may have heard. A three volume set of books on Reef Invertebrates (2003), Reef Fishes and Reef Corals. My second volume (2003)... heehee... you just can't stop us from talking/writing and sharing! Kindly, Anthony>

First Saltwater Aquarium Mr. Fenner, <<JasonC here>> I plan on setting up a 100-120 gallon saltwater tank in about a year or so. In the meantime, I would like to start out with something smaller, to gain some experience. I have read several places that a 40-55 gallon setup is ideal for a starter tank. <<Actually, I'd start at 55 and go up from there.>> However, the price of a 55 gallon saltwater tank is a little prohibitive, especially since I just want this tank as a "warm-up" for the real deal. <<Well, in many ways it won't be a warm up for the occupants of the tank, it will be the real deal.>> I have seen some desktop (12-13 gallon) tanks that run about $400, and include everything except the heater. I am struggling trying to determine whether I should try to go with a 40-55 gallon tank, or the desktop tank, price being a big factor. <<Well... consider also that the price to stock the tank will be the same, regardless of size - the animals cost the same. Likewise, your desire to 'practice' might be better filled by working at a fish store or aquarium. The smaller the system gets, the more unstable it becomes, and the more diligence it requires to keep. The potential for problems is smaller tanks is much larger than even the modest upgrade from a 40 to a 55. A 40 is about as small as I would go for my first tank, and that probably with an Ecosystem hang-on or similar system for filtration. For your position on the learning curve, I would predict that while a 55 might cost a little more at the outset, you will spend the same in the long run trying to keep a smaller tank in line.>> What are your thoughts? <<You got 'em.>> Can I put together a 40-55 gallon saltwater setup for around $400? <<Perhaps, but if money is holding you back, consider saving a little longer that you don't have to skimp on the hardware required to run a vigorous system.>> Is the desktop aquarium going to be extremely difficult to maintain? <<If this is your first attempt at saltwater, the answer is unequivocally , yes.>> Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated. <> Thanks, Andy <<Cheers, J -- >>

New Marine/s, Tank Hi Bob - <<Not actually Bob, but JasonC...>> We have recently been given a 55 gallon tank. It has a Powerfilter with an attached skimmer and a medium sized physical filter. We have a snowflake eel, a lemon damsel, 2 Clarks clown fish, an emerald crab, hermit crab, 7 snails, 2 condy anemones, 2 bubble tipped anemones, and 6 anemones that we do not know their names (The tank came from a friend and some of these fish/anemones were already in place), they are light brown with tall stalks and very thin tentacles. My question is that of loading the tank. Since it is a small system, are there too many critters living there? <<Well, you are certainly close to the edge, but not so full that this is your problem. I wouldn't add anything else, however.>> When we first move the tank to our home the nitrates were sky high - over 200, <<egads...>> after 2 large water changes over a weeks time (1 40 gallon change and 1 35 gallon change) we brought the level down to below 20. However, after about 1.5 weeks the Nitrate level is creeping to 80. I have read a lot of your book - Conscientious Marine Aquarist - and think that the overloading may be my problem. Also feeding is a big question - fish books on specific species say feed 3 times a day - which differs significantly from the once to once every couple of days. <<For the fish you listed, feeding once a day would be fine, you might need a little more for the eel if it becomes insistent or starts sampling the other occupants.>> I want to keep the nitrates fairly constant (as it should be) and don't want to have to resort to drastic water changes often. <<and neither would I.>> We are changing 5 gallons every week. Do you suggest more? <<No, that's fine... I do 10% every two weeks on my own tanks if that is any indication.>> Please help if you can with suggestions about loading, feeding, and or increased water changes. Thanks for you time. Steve Barry. <<Hope that is helpful. Cheers, J -- >>

Help? Hi, <<Hello...JasonC here>> I really hate to bother you but I cannot seem to get an answer locally and don't want to loose my entire tank. Anything you could tell me to help would be so much appreciated! <> Brief as can be - the situation is: Marine tank NOW 7 1/2 weeks old (7/13). 60 gallon. 60# of live sand. I have a wet-dry filtering system, protein skimmer. I do have under gravel platform although, I use NO underground filter...just did it thinking that it might help with air. Plants are artificial. The live sand is real live reef sand but I got (locally) 3 - 7" rocks (shop owner told me they were live Florida reef rocks) BUT now I am beginning to wonder. They were dry except for a slight misting he was doing as he bagged it for me. He said it should just be rinsed off slightly and put in the tank. I asked if it was cured and he said "yes" but this is what has been happening: Tank is 7 1/2 weeks old. Cycled and all was well at 3-3 1/2 weeks with several small fish. I then added (several days between each) 1 pencil urchin, 1 royal gramma 2", 1 file fish 1 1/2", 1 1" watchman goby (beautiful little bright yellow guy!), 2 false Percula clowns each 1 1/2" long, 3 hermit crabs and 2 very small zebra snails. Everything seemed fine and tested well until about 3 weeks ago I got a red star and some time during the night of his 3rd day with us he must have died. When I turned on the lights around 10: AM I noticed his leg was "crumbly" I immediately put him in a hospital tank and ran tests. He died or was dead and my test were good except that NITRITES were elevated but not real bad. I did a 10% water change. All seemed well again and then on 7/9 I ran weekly tests again to find my reads: 7/9 Nitrites "1 & above" 7/11 ".5 to 1" can barely distinguish on chart, 7/12 ".5 to 1" and today 7/13 "1- 10 mg/l". PH was perfect 8.3 until 7/9/02 when it dropped to 7.2 overnight. On 7/9 I buffered it and it came up to 7.7. On 7/12 I buffered it once more and added calcium at a friend's advice (has tank too) and PH is up to 8.2 today (7/13). My ammonia NH3 + NH4 reads have been: "O" until 7/12/02 (several days AFTER the other problems) it read "0.25". 7/13 it reads "o" (No doubt about this one on the chart.) At the start of the problem I did 10% water change, following several days another 10% and when PH dropped I did a 20 -25% water change several days ago. My fish are all breathing very well. Very active and act perfectly normal. Same with Urchin. I know I am not over-feeding as I only feed what I can watch them eat in about 10-15 while I sit and enjoy them before and after work. After work I feed and of course watch longer and if they eat well - I give them a little more. They are always very hungry (it seems) they come to the top and eat hardily. There is NO signs of mold, algae, etc. My gravel is still quite white and so is the coral. Only 1 very small (10mm) spot of red on 1 coral and that will come out today and bleached etc. just because of the problem. I have the lights on from 10 AM till 10 PM and do NOT have high lumen lights. My calcium tests at 480. today . I don't want to loose these little guys. Can you help me at all? I will gladly send you a check if you will send your address. I just do not know what to do. I have never before in 12 years of marine tanks (seahorses then- back 7 years ago) - never had any problems. This is my first experience with live "sand" and the rock which I think may be the problem. "live sand" was bagged commercially and was wet so I'm sure that was good. Date on it was far off from now so alright. <<Sounds to me like two things happened... first, you added those new fish rather quickly. I prefer to wait weeks to months between additions, not days. The fact that your tank had just become established meant the new additions would create a corresponding change in bio-load and perhaps even a momentary rise in nitrite while the biological filter adjusts. Then... there is that questionable live rock. Cured or un-cured, you are always better off re-curing it at your home in a bucket, Rubbermaid bin, or spare tank. This way you can be sure nothing drastic will happen when the rock is finally added to your tank. So... the live rock sounds like it needed to cure some more, and this in addition to the new fish is taxing your system just a bit. Should even out in a week or two. I didn't gather from reading your email that your tank inhabitants were doing poorly so likely all will be just fine given a little time and patience.>> Thank you so much for your time and please let me know how much I may send you for your trouble. Have a wonderful weekend! <<Oops - did, sorry I'm a little late getting back.>> Patricia Dawes, a reader of your Seahorse info, etc. <<Cheers, J -- >>

Re: Help? reply Thanks so very much! <<Oh, you are quite welcome.>> I wasn't sure I should just wait. I had no idea I should waits months in between new additions...... <<actually, a single month would be plenty.>> I'll behave better in the future!! Never could wait for anything. <<Well then, this tank will be a good exercise for you... patience will be your best ally in keeping a saltwater tank.>> Thanks again, Pat <<Cheers, J -- >>

Moving to larger tank I currently have a 100 gallon and have purchased a 160 gallon. I will be using all new equipment with this larger tank since none of my current equipment is large enough to handle a 160. I will transfer all of the water from my current tank but obviously 60 gallons will need to be "new" water. How should I handle this? <Add all the old stuff first (substrate, liverock, water, fish, etc.) and then top off with the new water.> I have used something in the past called "go juice" that is an instant cycler. Will I need this or will keeping 100 gallons of their cycled water be enough. Isn't this kind of like doing a 60% water change? <Yes> Although, since I'm using a new wet/dry with some new bio balls (will put their old ones in with the new) they won't have all the bacteria from their old tank. Do you have any suggestions on how to go about this transfer safely? -- to try to insure the best health for my fish. <Place all the old bioballs in first and then just fill the new unit with as many new bioballs as needed.> Also, should I start the protein skimmer and UV sterilizer right away or wait 6 months or so like you would on a brand new tank? I currently use a 25 watt sterilizer on my 100gl. Would this be large enough to handle my new 160 in your opinion? <Varies by manufacturer. Do check your owners manual or if misplaced look them up on the WWW.> Thanks for any helpful suggestions you can provide. I appreciate it! :) <You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Marine set-up, need for understanding through basal education HI WWM crew, how are you? I like your site and I do read it daily. I have some questions and I hope you can help : 1. Everything I need for my tank, I get it by the net, so I am having a problem. I don't know what is the best. Can you provide me with a GOOD site? <Do look at our links page, sponsors, and ask the opinion of your fellow hobbyists at http://WetWebFotos.com/talk/ 2. You said its better to have a Protein Skimmer but what kind should I have for 125 FOWLR in your opinion (inexpensive)? <Please read our opinions on the subject beginning here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/skimbestof.htm and continuing on through the other linked files.> 3. I don't have a hospital tank, so what do you think about reef safe medications? Do they really work? Name me one of the best kind you have tried please. <There are no cure alls. This would depend entirely on what particular pathogen you were having problems with.> 4. I have about 100 pounds of LR in my tank. Is this enough for biological filtration or should I get wet/dry filter or some thing else? <No, sounds about right for a 125.> What do you think about right now bacteria (a lot of my friends used it and it did work)? 5.What do you think of instant ocean salt mix? <It is one of my favorites. I use exclusively Instant Ocean or Reef Crystals, both from Aquarium Systems, for my home tanks, as well as, my business accounts.> Should I switch to some thing else? <No need> Sorry but every time I read a book or search the net I get more confused. <That can happen, but continue to read so that you can discern the fact from the BS/marketing and form an educated opinion. -Steven Pro>

New Tank Set-Up Good Evening Mr. Fenner, <Steven pro in this evening. I just finished my first two dives for certification and I am dog tired.> I have a few questions that I need answered and I was hoping you could help me. 1.) I currently have a 55 gallon tank with the following equipment: 55 Gallon All-Glass Tank Emperor 400 Filter 2 x 55 w Power compact SuckClone Skimmer, and it sucks everything but scum 2 Maxijet 1200 Powerheads 2- 100w heaters 25# Fiji Live Rock 1 False Percula 1 Coral Beauty 1 Green Chromis 1 Tap water purifier that constantly needs new cartridges <Two suggestions for you, one save and collect all the old cartridges and then separate and recharge the resins. There are various DIY instructions for this project on-line.> Okay, I have been running this tank for about a year and besides all the equipment in the main tank looking like crap, it has run fairly well. I would like to buy a new protein skimmer but I hate to spend it on a hang on type when I am going to upgrade in about 6 months to a drilled tank with a sump. I do not have lots of extra cash laying around to upgrade right now but I need to achieve better skimming. Do you have any advice on what skimmer I could buy now that would serve it's purpose in the current tank and could still be used in a sump later? <You can construction your future sump so its has a chamber where you could hang a skimmer from. The Aqua-C line gets rave reviews from many of the www.WetWebMedia.com forum users.> I hate to spend money on a hang on now, knowing that I will not use it later. <Agreed> 2.) The upgrade I am considering in six months is as follows: 90 gallon All glass with overflow and plumbing Skimmer - Not sure yet what would be best and fairly affordable - Would like your suggestion! Tidepool II Sump (I have got mixed opinions about this, the LFS says it's great other people says it don't work well - As usual I become more confused) 115# Live Rock UV Sterilizer (Later) - Any suggestions on wattage needed or suggested manufacturer 4 x 55 w. power compacts - Would like to do low light corals later - Is this enough lighting for any corals? <Yes, it will be adequate for many corals.> Hopefully pretty soon I will have more help with all of this. I just joined Pittsburgh Marine Aquarium Society so I am hoping that I will also get some good advice there. I hear that they are all a pretty good bunch of guys I am looking forward to attending the next meeting. <Do be sure to seek out Anthony and myself. I am the President of the club and Anthony serves as our Treasurer. Just a reminder, the next meeting is Saturday, July 27th, 6:00 PM at the Palace Inn in Monroeville. We are conducting a presentation on plumbing issues. This should be very helpful for your new tank.> I am sorry that I missed the one in the end of June that you spoke at. I heard it was very good. <The club/I did video tape it and it is available to our members.> As always your professional opinion is sincerely appreciated. Thank You For Your Time, Jim <Have a nice night. -Steven Pro>

How does this sound to you?? (marine set-up) To whom ever opens this E-mail, <<Hello, JasonC here>> Hello, and thanks first for reading my email and hopefully answering my questions. <<hopefully is right ;-) >> I have just started into the world of saltwater, I have had many questions and most have been answered. But I'm still lacking some major information that I'm hopping you may have. First, Feather Dusters ( I have read through the FAQs but I just cant find my answer...could be me..) I do plan on buying a feather Duster but A question in feeding, I know there a filter feeder, but I've read that they should be feed some sort of concoction?? If so what is in it, and do I just use a pipette or turkey baster idea and spray it at them, with basically all my filters/power heads off. If so how long. <<Ah ha... you may want to add this to your reading list: www.wetwebmedia.com/feather.htm those questions are all answered there. I would also add, that given time you will likely find small feather dusters on your live rock, and if you're really lucky they will invade. These often need little to no care beyond the things you do normally like feed your fish and change the water>> Question 2 is about fish Compatibility, When I first started to cycle my tank (right the specs) **Tank information** 35 G hang on back filter/skimmer 1 350 powerhead w/filter (will have) 30+lbs of live rock and possibly a better filter than what I have any good affordable ones?) But to the Fish, I bought two clowns as per a recommendation that they are good for cycling because there sturdy (and cheap ...kind of sic but oh well) So I went hunting... and found very few that I liked... But then I went to another LFS the last on mind you, and found it to be a really nice place with a good selection of stock. So I went and stared at the tanks for Ohh good 2-3 hours, many people asked if I need help they stopped after the first hour....And I found my self staring at a tank with two types of clowns in them, False Percula (sp?) the Orange one with white stripes and black lines... and with them Skunks. They all got along great none of them had anything wrong they all ate, and all seemed happy. I asked the guy as I was just deciding, "are they compatible in a smaller tank if I buy one of each" Answer "Sure they are as long as there about the same size" So I bought one of each cause I liked them both and they all had excellent personalities in the tank... I'm know done with the cycling of my tank and noticing that they seem to be fighting, (I figure cause there's no stress anymore from cycling) but not badly the Skunk will chase the Per. around for a sec then stop then they seem fine they do this very little , and mostly at food times were the Per. is super bossy and can fend off the Skunk pretty well there. Is this natural just testing each other, or could it turn to one may kill the other (if this happens im rooting for the Per. more color.....) But I hope it does not come to this or the Skunk may find him self in a new home (I have a little 10 gallon he could have as his own....its supposed to be my quarantine tank/ live rock curing tank...) <<Well... is always hard to say. Probably best to just keep an eye on things and make sure it's not coming to blows or damage. With just these two fish in a 35 with 30 pounds of live rock, they should be able to get away from each other as needed. You could add more live rock and try to arrange all to provide nooks to swim in/out/through.>> Also, I'm now looking for what I wish to establish in my tank doing research and finding out more and more, like I do not wish to have anemones going to go with Feather dusters, they sort of look the same right.... right..... <<Yes, yes... keep in mind that one of your clowns may 'adopt' a large feather duster, much to the duster's demise. No guarantee that this will happen, but it's been documented by other aquarists.>> But as my last question and babbling, For my other occupants does this seem good.... 1 Percula (Clown) 1 Skunk (Clown) 3 Hermit Crabs (blue leg there supposed to be less aggressive) and the have like 10 extra shells between them ******* want to add 2-4 Feather dusters (is this a good idea also id try to keep them sort of close but not too close so it looks like anemones but I know there not but I cant keep anemones... <<Wise choice on not attempting the anemone.>> 2-3 turbo cleaner snails 1 brittle star fish (I hope these won't eat the crabs or snails, there not supposed to but you never know right?) <<The green brittle stars can stay at the fish store - these are known to eat fish and could cause you problems. Most all other brittle stars are more trustworthy. Perhaps look for one that stays smaller.>> and maybe 1 other fish max <<It better be small and peaceful...>> the one other fish Dragon Wrasse or Royal Gramma <<ching... I'd pick this one, and perhaps add a cleaner shrimp or scarlet shrimp.>> or box fish (snigger I want one so bad but id have to buy a huge tank for it .....) it be one of the two and ideas on those or none at all because of my smaller tank <<Well, you seem to be off on the right foot, and asking before buying is so much better for you and your system than the alternative. Don't rush, and if you can enjoy your tank with three fish in it, I think your tank will be a joy for a long time.>> also I've heard of this Nano reef were they use like a 5-10 gallon tank and its just a small coral tank.... is it true.... <<It is true, and in fact yours truly has kept a 2.5g nano reef tank so I have much insight on this topic. First, because you are new to saltwater tanks, I wouldn't recommend this to you. Spend a year on the tank you have now and develop maintenance habits and a knowledge-base and you'll be better equipped to tackle a nano reef. Second, they don't cost any less to stock than any other tank. Your local fish store typically pays the same price for their corals, regardless of the number of polyps which means small specimens will cost you as much as a larger one. Lastly, and the reason I stopped is this: these tanks are just small, and don't really afford the 'viewing room' that the creatures in the tank deserve - my 2.5 for example, you had to put your head on the kitchen counter to get a good look - kind of hurt the eyes. Likewise, the living system in the tank is actually in precarious balance, and requires extreme diligence to just approximate stability. I moved my 2.5 into a 54 so I could work less and actually see and keep the various inverts I was keeping.>> Thanks for all the help in answering my questions if you can. I hope to be able to post pic of my tank in about a month when everything is settled in. I'll send the link!! <<If you haven't already, you should join our Forum where these topics are discussed in detail by folks like yourself. In addition, there is a place within that website to post pictures of your tank. http://wetwebfotos.com/talk Cheers, J -- >>

Set-up for 300g Dear Mr. Fenner, I am setting up a 300 GL for fish and some less demanding coral, equipment as following: 1. Skimmer AquaC EV-400 (900GPH flow rate) 2. 4X400W Metal Halide <Your lighting will depend on the tank's dimensions and your coral choices, but this is overkill for all but the most demanding corals and/or deep tanks, over 24".> 3. Deep sand bed 4 inch 4. Live rock 2 lb / gallon 5. Power filter 1000GPH Eheim (tank capacity 15 gallon) Is this necessary for trapping debris? 6. Powerhead 4x500 GPH No sump. Is it okay? <You need a sump for the skimmer.> No refugium. Is it okay? <Yes, it is ok, although refugiums are great for adding diversity, water volume, natural foods, etc.> Are above facility good enough for reef tank? <Your water flow/circulation looks modest, but again it depends on the corals and fish kept.> My local (Indonesian dealer) uses only undergravel pad, a sponge tucked into a internal sump with a small pump pumping water back to the main system, very low lighting (3x40w fluorescent for 150 gal. tank), <If not supplemented by sunlight, 120 watts of normal output fluorescent will not keep most corals alive.> 2 small water pump, minimum water change. They claim for year of success and the corals in their display tank looks beautiful and healthy (according to my beginner judgment). Although they have deep sand bed and very lightly stocked with fish, it is very questionable. Best regards! Liao I Ching <Keeping learning and educating yourself, my friend. -Steven Pro>

Skimmer Hello! <<And hello to you! JasonC helping out>> I am really glad I came across your site as I find it very informative. I am crossing over from fresh water to the salt hobby. I have a 150 gal tank that I am going to set up as a reef tank. I am in the process of getting the equipment I need for the conversion. However if I talk to ten people, I get 20 opinions. <<Is this not the case with just about everything?>> I hope you can help me with what I need to know and I will take your word as law. Question #1: As far as the filtration for this setup is concerned would you go with a wet-dry with or without the bio balls. <<For a reef - sans bioballs is best.>> Can I operate my system with just a sump and skimmer? <<Oh for certain, is exactly what I do on my reef tank. Here's a really good article on reef filtration: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/reeffilt.htm >> Question #2: Can you recommend a skimmer to me for this size tank The best). Also a sump if there is one in particular I should have. <<I'm a real big fan of the AquaC line of skimmers, but there are others which are also quite good; Euro-Reef comes to mind. As far as sumps go - this is the type of thing you could build with a Rubbermaid plastic bin so... brands? Shop around or DIY - either one works just fine.>> I really appreciate your help!!! Warren <<No problem. Cheers, J -- >>

Re: Skimmer Hello, I still have a few more questions: <<Hello again to you...>> So what you are saying is all I need is a rubber made container and set a skimmer in it along with my chiller etc? <<Pretty much. It doesn't need to be fancy, just functional.>> I will invest in a Aqua-C skimmer. If I go with a rubber maid container I won't need and external pump would I. <> Only a pump to run the skimmer and I pump to return the water. <<What about a pump to run the chiller?>> and everything will sit in the container... Right? <<Sure.>> I am trying to save money where I can. Thanks, Robert.


Small Marine Aquariums Book 1: Invertebrates, Algae New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 2: Fishes New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 3: Systems New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner

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