New Tank Setup Questions 4/20/08
Hello there,
<Hello Mick!>
I can speak for many people that your website is a great source for people like me.
<Awesome, thank you!!>
I have decided to finally upgrade my aquarium setup, after 3 years of caring for a 35 gallon fish only tank. I am getting a 100 gallon tank.
<A nice upgrade.>
It is pre-drilled with a 1 inch drain and 3/4 inch return. I know you would recommend going with a larger size drain hole...this tank is on sale at a local fish store.
<Ok, it can work so long as you know of the flow restrictions through the overflow.>
My plan is to start with a fish only setup with live rock, and eventually move up to some easy to care for corals. The end goal is to have a beautiful reef tank some day.
<Nice plan, I'm sure you will have a beautiful tank in time.>
I plan to have a refugium sump in the stand. My first question is what size pump should I use?
<Something around 300 gph or so at your head pressure, add about 150 gph to that if you plan to use the ¾” as a drain also.>
I have read that with a refugium, the flow rate should be moderate and not too fast.
<Your flow will be fine with the limitations of the overflow.>
I plan to install some powerheads in the display tank for additional circulation. Would a Mag 7 do?
<A Mag 7 will be close by the time plumbing and head pressure is accounted for. Do put a ball valve on the output in case you need to throttle it back a bit.>
I never have a drilled tank before now. Everything I have so far is hang-on type of equipment. My concern is having a mini pond in my living room.
<A valid concern/warning.>
Should I use a ball valve and a check valve at the pump return line?
<A ball valve yes. Check valves should not be relied upon to prevent flooding, they will eventually fail. Placing your return high up in the tank to minimize how much water returns to the sump in a power outage is a far better way to go.>
What type of valve should I have for the drain?
<Absolutely none, you want the drain to be completely unrestricted.>
What additional precautions should I consider?
<Pump flow mostly, along with return placement.>
Lastly, I plan to install some T5 retrofits into the canopy. The canopy is acrylic. Is it possible to install retrofits into an acrylic canopy?
<Yes.>
I read many of the retrofits manuals, but they all pertain to wood canopy. Do you know of some technique to mount retrofits to acrylic?
<It is a bit tougher. You can drill straight through the canopy and put a washer and a nut on the topside. If you are mechanically inclined you can drill the canopy and tap it for machine screws to hold your light. Either way you may need to stiffen the top up a bit, depending on the acrylic thickness. Another option is to build a set of legs, much like a remanufactured fixture, to hold the retrofit off the top of the tank. With any of these methods be sure to leave yourself a little room between the canopy and lighting fixture (use spacers) to allow heat dissipation.>
Thank you very much for your time,
Mick
<Welcome to reefing!! Scott V.>

Re: 2 questions, New Marine Setup 4/17/08
Thanks for the help.
<Welcome>
I went out and purchased a Remora Pro. It keeps filling up every couple hours or so with almost clear water, is this normal during the break in period?
<Yes, might want to move the cup up as high as it goes if you have not already. If this continues to for more that a couple days I highly recommend contacting Aqua-C, they have really great customer service.>
Also, should I still hook up one of my Emperors to use for mechanical filtration? Or is it not necessary to have mechanical filtration?
<The problem with mechanical filtration like the Emperors is that they do not remove the materials from the water column, leaving them there to decay and add nitrates back into the system. You could run them without media for added water movement and add poly-filters or carbon if needed.>
Thanks
Marc
<Chris>

Salt Water Fish Aquarium... nec. gear?  What, no books?  03/14/2008
Wet Web Crew,
<<Good Evening Darby, Andrew here>>
Can you please tell me what i need to start up my 125 gallon salt water fish aquarium. I have a new Undergravel filter with 4 powerheads. I also have a built in wet dry filter. What else would you suggest.
<<I would leave off the under gravel filter, don't see a need in using it. Use the powerheads to create the tanks circulation. Of course, budget is the key here, so all i can do is provide the types, and not specifics.
1) Sand - Aragonite sugar grade reef sand - 1 Lb per gallon
2) Live Rock - 1 Lb per gallon
3) Protein Skimmer - Rated a little above your tank size
4) Lighting - this will depend on what you have in there...fish only or corals
5) Heater...2 x 200w heaters
6) Hydrometer or Refractometer - Ideally the later
7) Test kits for pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate at a minimum. If this is a reef, then you also need at least Calcium, Alk and Mag.
8) Depending on the flow rate of your powerheads and type of system, you want, you flow can range from 1250 GPH for a fish only tank, or 3125 GPH or more if this is a reef
9) RO Unit or RO/DI - This is used to create the pure water which is the best thing to use for a marine system, and not use tap water
10) Thermometer - Either the probe or the glass type, not the stick on ones as they will give false readings
11) Then misc items like nets etc etc>>
Thank you for your time. Darby Woody
<<Hope this helps. A Nixon>>

Tank Setup 2/27/08
Hello Crew,
<Hello.>
Let me start by saying I am practically brand new to the saltwater tank hobby as well as your forum. I have read about 10 hours of info between your forum and About.com. Both are amazingly informational and your knowledge and patience in questions is much appreciated. I am a firefighter/paramedic and I am starting to think this hobby is more difficult to learn than all my medical training!
<It can seem that way sometimes.>
So now to my question. I have purchased a 90 gal tank from the classifieds. It came with a whole box of things due to a divorce sale. With that in mind, the woman selling it had no information on the things she was selling. It has an Eheim 2228 and has the same media your forum has recommended. It also has two "Powerhead 3/1" as well. Also included is a Primo Multi-Filter 85 gph.
<OK>
I plan to puts lots of Live Rock due to its obvious benefit and ease of attaining since I live next to the ocean and dive frequently.
<Sounds good.>
I have read places that gph is important. Is this only for water movement?
<For the most part yes. You do need some water moving through your filtration, but not all the flow in your tank needs to come from this.>
Do the powerheads count towards this number?
<Yes they do.>
Is there anywhere I can go via the web to see how to physically set up the Eheim filter since it is in parts with no user manual?
<These are nice filters, though not known for the world’s greatest instructions. Some can be found here: http://www.brooklands.co.nz/eheim/manuel.htm >
Should I use the small Primo filter in addition to the Eheim?
<I would not use both, there will be no benefit and more maintenance. Beware that either filter will need to be cleaned frequently (once a week or so) to prevent detritus accumulation. Also, you do not mention a protein skimmer, this is a worthwhile addition to any marine tank.>
What do you recommend for a beautiful sand looking bottom?
<A fine aragonite sand.>
Can/should I mix live/dead sand?
<If you can obtain true live sand, not the wet stuff in a bag (a waste of money in my opinion), they I would mix it in. If you have a friend with a tank that can give you some sand from an existing system this can be used to seed the rest of your sand. Otherwise the sand will populate from the liverock.>
What do I use to keep the rock off the bottom as stated in articles to keep maximum live rock alive?
<You can build a PVC frame to hold the rock if you wish, otherwise I would just rest the rock directly on the bottom and then add your sand; this will create a stable base. Rock die off is not really an issue doing this.>
Sorry for so many questions! I hope I have not surpassed my allotted amount. Your patience is appreciated.
Scott
<No problem, welcome to the hobby! Scott V.>

Re: Tank Setup 2/28/08
Very helpful information! Thanks again.
<Welcome.>
One last question... Is the protein skimmer very important if I plan to have live fish/rock and maybe soft corals?
<In my opinion the most important filtration for any marine tank.>
What would/could happen if I don’t?
<You will have a poor water quality as compared to with a skimmer. They are not required equipment; they just make things much easier. Check out the link below with all related FAQ/articles for more. Keep reading, much to learn, posted many places. Good luck, Scott V.>
http://wetwebmedia.com/toskimornotfaq.htm

SW set-up reading, netspeak disdain    2/5/08
All your information is of great help so here is a run down of my soon to be purchases roughly 20 lbs of live rock live sand nova extreme T5 with lunar light 96 watts two lunar lights 2 Koralia nano pumps sea clone 100 skimmer
<... for what size, sort of system? Livestock assortment?>
or nano fission skimmer. If necessary I have a magnum pro canister filter I could run on the tank. If it takes me awhile to get the light a standard plant light would be effective with just live rock and sand until I get corals then the upgraded light would be necessary. Also if you could recommend a good book on this subject. Thank u
<... u? Need to read up a bit... For a preview of what might serve, see here: http://wetwebmedia.com/yorlibfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Questions… A Survey   11/5/07
Hello Crew,
<Hi Joe, Mich here.>
I am writing a research paper on the start up of a marine aquarium for beginners. I would greatly appreciate it, if one or more of your marine experts could take a few minutes to briefly answer these ten questions. This is for a college course in research papers and no names will be used in it.
If you would like a copy of the article for any reason please let me know. I realize that this is an imposition and that you are very busy, however as a passionate marine hobbyist myself I chose one of my favorite subjects to write about. Thank you for your time, understanding and expertise. Please feel free to forward this to anyone who might take a moment to answer these brief questions. Or, if you can, please post it on the site, the more answers I get the better! My site name is espressoforme. Thanks for your help and for having such a wonderful site for those of us who love the hobby.
Thanks,
<Welcome! Mich>
Joe
Joe Lupo
jelupo@comcast.net
Questions for Joseph Lupo's research paper. Please answer each question, if you don't have an opinion on something just leave it blank.
1. What is the single biggest error you find that first time marine aquarists make?
<Going too fast.>
2. What size tank is the minimum you would recommend for first time marine aquarists?
<Really depends, though bigger is more stable.>
3. Do recommend that a protein skimmer be among the first purchases that is made for a new set-up?
<Absolutely.>
4. Would you recommend a new aquarist using fully cured live rock in their tank, once it has cycled?
<Without question.>
5. What investment in terms of dollars per gallon do you feel that a new marine aquarist should plan on spending on the full setup? Tank, filter equipment, plumbing, pumps, sand and or rock, lighting, etc., excluding livestock (In other words a 100 gallon set-up at $10.00 per gallon would be $1,000.
<Really many variables here as well.>
6. What is your recommended method for cycling a new tank?
<Well not damsels!!!!! Please see here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/estbiofiltmar.htm >
7. Assuming a community tank, what would be the first few fish you would recommend for someone new to the hobby?
<Again all depends on the wants and desires of the aquarist.>
8. What tests do you recommend making on a regular basis?
<In the beginning nitrate, nitrite, and ammonia would be the big three as far as water chemistry goes, but obviously temperature should be check once or more a day... salinity, pH, dKH, and calcium are also quite important.>
9. What percentage of the original budget should be spent on lighting, assuming FOWLR tank?
<FOWLR needs minimal lighting.>
10. What type of filtration do you recommend a new hobbyist should start with?
<A refugium if possible.>
Thank you very much for your time!
<Welcome! Mich>
All of your responses will remain confidential and your personal information will not appear in the paper.
Joseph E. Lupo
<Ahh, I see a Lehigh Valley exchange... What school are you attending? Mich who used to be "living here in Allentown..." and is a proud Muhlenberg College Alum and also remembers a Ken who was associated with Muhlenberg with your last name.>
jelupo@comcast.net

New tank setup, SW – 10/30/2007
Hello there, I am yet another freshwater aquarist newly delving into the world of keeping marine organisms. I have been doing heaps of reading and talking regarding my new venture, however, I would really appreciate an educated opinion on my proposed setup. Eventually I would like to keep species found on the Great Barrier Reef such as Amphiprion percula, Paracanthurus hepatus, Chromis sp., Synchiropus splendidus as well as corals. I have only just begun researching corals and I think I will try my luck with soft corals before graduating to SPS corals. The hardware plan involves using some equipment that already have and is as follows:
Tank constructed from glass with the dimensions 72" x 18" x 24" (approx. 130 gallons).
<Mmm, I would trade the width for the height here... two feet wide is easier on all...>
Two Eheim Classic 2217 canister filters with bioballs, activated carbon and Eheim filter pads (coarse and fine). One of these will outflow through a spray bar and the other through a SCWD.
<Mmm, am a big fan of these filters, manufacturer... but not good choice of type (canister) filtration for marine systems by and large... I'd keep looking and build/buy a sump/refugium for sure>
AquaC Remora Pro protein skimmer, adding another as bioload increases.
<Likely no need to add more>
Eheim air pump (400) for extra water movement and aeration.
<Again... better to opt for just more water movement...>
Two 300 watt heaters.
One inch thick plenum with four inches of substrate (coral sand) on top and enough live rock to fill around 1/3 of the display area. Is this ok so far?
<The substrate is... though I would just use the one inch or so in the main/display and remote the DSB in the sump...>
Lighting is proving fairly confusing and controversial as I am sure you are aware!! One LFS has suggested three 250 watt metal halides with actinics as well, and another LFS has recommended 8 x 39 watt 6ft HO T5 bulbs... I think, considering the depth of my tank metal halide lighting may be the best option if I want to keep corals. I know a lot of corals are overambitious for a beginner, however, I am researching with a very long term plan in mind and will only make small purchases when confident with species compatibility issues and, the water quality of the tank in terms of the required chemical values and their stability. Thank you very much for your time. Mel
<Mel... for what all is worth here, I would keep investigating, taking good notes... You show signs of having studied... but will do much better to look a bit more before buying/committing at this point. Start perusing here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
From the top on down. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Ignorance included, manual not
Marine Set-Up 10/29/07
<Hi Amber>
I'm attempting the best I can to make sure that I'm aware of what I want to ask exactly before I send this email to you as I clearly read the very angry and obviously Bryna in your search area. Here is my best disguise at having studied your forum for 3 1/2 hours in the middle of the night for my newest hobby and step toward the marine biology degree I wish to get someday...
<Best of luck in your endeavor.>
I bought a 28 gallon tank for my first salt water tank. I'm aware most aqua fiends insist on 55 or above, but as I wish to have a seahorse tank, I've been insisted that it's entirely large enough.
<Yes.>
I read about cycling and felt that while I read plenty on how to do it myself, live rock seemed the most natural and safest way to go, keeping the chemistry mostly out of my incapable hands.
<Live rock is a good method of bio filtration.>
I realize I still have regular testing to do but for the most part, live rock, being natural and all, seemed the best way to go to keep the environment as "natural" as possible for the future inhabitants. I called the "LFS" or for those of us who don't know as I have just learned today...the "Local Fish Store", which was recommended by my father who's been doing his tank for 15 years and more now having visited all the stores and this being the best with the most knowledgeable human inhabitants. As I spoke with the very friendly man on the other side of the phone, he said that there
were many ways to do my tank to keep it natural and affordable, especially for first starting out. Instead of mixing my own water for the first time, he said he could inexpensively sell me premixed water, which I thought was nice, and then I'll make sure to have him teach me how to maintain it myself and mix it as well after this.
<Mmm, no need for the extra expense, very easy to do. Read here. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_4/V4I2/Water_Makeup/makeup_water.htm>
He recommended certain take mates rather than the tang I'd been informed was not aggressive which was then explained to be an aggressive eater.
<Your tank would be much too small for a tang.>
Then, when I mentioned how I wanted live rock aka LR as the one thing I knew I wanted and needed, he recommended little or no LR in order to minimize the expense along with the possibility of getting unwanted creatures who could harm the seahorses I intend to inhabit this tank. He then recommended live sand and base rock.
I didn't know what base rock was and after hours of finding little info online, I finally found a nice site, not yours unfortunately at the time, but rather wikipedia.com which explained how LR came with bacteria and other such things and then when I searched BR it explained it came with none at all. If BR comes with none at all, does that not defeat the purpose of getting it in general? I'm not getting this for my own aesthetic desire, but rather for a true habitat which may be peaceful and enjoyable to its inhabitants. I understand that most people are looking for aesthetics, but I find the seahorses to be the enjoyment, not a rock so much as I can find plenty in other places. Which would you recommend, or would you recommend both LR and BR and in what percentage if you could explain please. I don't intend to have many in habitants, as I read it's not so much the amount of rock but the number of inhabitants in one of your other responses.
<Live rock will contain beneficial bacteria which will develop to the levels required by the bio load in the tank. Base rock is generally dry when you get it and is generally used to build up areas to place live corals and such. It saves money in this regard as it is much cheaper than live rock and in time the base rock will be populated with beneficial organisms.>
That sounded like a true enough answer. Keeping that in mind, I thought I'd let you know what I DESIRE to have. Keep in mind that doesn't mean it will work as I continue to research this more. I desire to acquire 2, at most 3 seahorses of medium size, 2 Mandarin Dragonet as tank mates,
<For these fish, live rock is most essential along with live food supplements in the form of copepods. Do read here.
Mmm, here we go again, our web site not responding, but do search Callionymids on our site. You may be able to get through, and if not, try later.>
and 1 Chocolate Chip Starfish...unless otherwise informed that this is a bad decision and an explanation as to why since these are the only things I've found that consistently go together.
<I'd like to paste a link here on these but cannot display the page. Do search the starfish on our site and read before deciding.>
Also, I would actually get 1 Mandarin Dragonet, but I fear having 1 fish by itself as I don't wish it to get lonely...do you know if it does better in 1 or 2 as some are not happy together and others are unhappy alone.
<Better to go with one, males generally fight in such small quarters and no guarantee you will get a male/female.>
I honestly haven't found much on them other than about how "beautiful they are".
<Yes they are but require proper feeding as above. Very difficult to acclimate them to prepared foods.>
The LFS also said he'd give me a small protein skimmer free since he had an extra, as I asked about them since I HAVE been doing my reading and was noticing how these seahorses are about as messy as my 4 year old while eating. Is a small one a good idea or should I find a larger one in your recommendation.
<If it is free, I'd try it before buying one.>
Also, I have a filter which is 150 gallons per hour aka gph. Do you feel this is sufficient or should I upgrade or even downgrade as I've learned that they need a filter which does its job, but doesn't blow them around.
<Exactly, food needs to come to the seahorses as they aren't very speedy at catching food. Also search our site on seahorses and their care.>
So far from your site I've learned a lot about LR and BR placement, stabilizing and keeping the flow of water. I've read plenty about feeding and I'm ecstatic that I can include my abalone shell as a feeding trough and am happy to learn of the feeding tubes as I'm sure that just saved the carpet of which I felt was likely going to be sacrificed. I've learned that Mysis is enhanced with nutrients, likely to keep from having to starve the seahorses trying to get them to eat krill with their 2 year old like diets and picky behavior. I'm reading up on the importance of monitoring pH levels and how to do so, but was hoping that while my email was likely full of ignorance and simplicity, that you would take pity on a woman with a dream and a goal and help me out or at least point me into the right directions as to links to specific areas.
<Do search "ph and alkalinity">
I've been sifting through your masses of emails, and finding them enjoyable, knowledgeable and humorous all in the same moment. I've utilized your search link 3 times already, that's not including my least 2 days of research or my last couple years with oceanography and marine biology books I read on hobby. I just...find the way you approach things rather easy to understand in its breakdown. I appreciate all your help, even if the email is discarded as I'll just learn to be more specific...or keep my emails a bit more brief. Thank you for your help in advance. ;)
<Amber, keep reading/learning on the animals you want to keep before making the plunge, make sure you can provide what they require and also compatibility issues. I'm sorry I could not paste the links, but having trouble today getting the page content to appear. James (Salty Dog)>
Amber P
P.S. Do you think seahorses won't do as children do when given a choice of go hungry or eat what is given? I ask because if Krill are so much better for them, should I attempt to force it more than enhanced Mysis or keep to what is already known?
<The Mysis is fine, and you may also mix with adult brine shrimp fortified with vitamins. Krill is a little too large for seahorses in my opinion.>

Establishing A New Marine Tank – 10/07/07
Dear WWM Crew,
<<Howdy Bill>>
1st let me thank you for running such a great website.
<<Mmm, well…Bob “runs” it, the rest of us try to help where we can, struggling to keep up with it when he’s away/out of touch, and not doing very well at that…sorry for the delay in making a response>>
I've learned more on your site than any book out there on the subject of Saltwater fish keeping.
<<High praise indeed…thank you my friend>>
I'm setting up a 300 gallon circular tank with faux coral in the middle as decoration
<<Sounds interesting…though as a die-hard reefer I can’t say I have much use/interest in the faux coral…though I will acknowledge its suitability for certain applications>>
and since there won't be any live rocks in the tank itself, I would like to use a huge (like 100+ gallons) sump so I can put at least 100 lbs or so of live rocks to help with the filtration.
<<A very good idea…and the bigger the better>>
My 1st question to you is, how many lbs of live rock should I use to help cycle the tank?
<<The 100lbs you propose, or so, should do fine. A large DSB would be of significant advantage as well…in my opinion>>
I think the biggest sump I can fit in my fish room will be 72 x 18 x 20 which is what 125 gallons?
<<Mmm, about 112-gallons actual volume>>
I also intend to transfer a few cups of substrate from 2 established tanks that I have.
<<Very good>>
Aside from these two methods I mentioned, what else can I do, to help the cycle along?
<<Throw in a dozen or so shrimp pellets to decompose/feed the bacteria/boost bacterial populations>>
I really do not want to use Damsels since I think it's cruel and I really do not want to fill the tank with them.... rather save the space for nicer fish.
<<Agreed on all counts…is totally unnecessary>>
If these are the only methods and depending on how many lbs of live rock I use, approximately how long do you think it will take to cycle this tank assuming that the water temp will be around 78 to 80 degrees??
<<Count on a minimum of four weeks…but only testing will determine when the tank is fit for stocking. Do also consider that leaving the tank fallow for as long as you can stand (6-mos?) will benefit the system in the long term>>
The reason I'm asking you this is because I intend to set up 4 - 20 gallon quarantine tanks at the same time using the basic sponge filters that I put in my other tanks. Knowing that quarantine lasts about 21 days, I like to time it just so when the main tank is cycled, I can immediately move the quarantined fish into the cycled tank.
Thanks and best regards,
Bill Woo
<<Happy to assist, EricR>>

Combining SW tanks... Much reading, thinking to do...  10/3/07
Hello Crew,
<Casey>
I've written on a few different occasions, and you've helped me a lot. The last time was regarding a tank upgrade to accommodate the following fish load as I will be combining all of the tanks into one. Currently, I have:
55 gallon (purchased used and already stocked about a year ago)-One Spot Foxface Rabbitfish,
<Needs more room...>
Flame Angel, Pearly Jawfish, Pink-Spotted Shrimp Goby, Mandarin, Bicolor Blenny, Red Fromia Starfish, a cleaner shrimp, an Elegance Coral, Pulsing Zenia, various snails and hermits.
29 gallon-Long-Nosed Hawkfish,
<Ditto>
Banggai Cardinalfish, Coral Banded Shrimp, Torch Coral, Tiger Cowry, various snails and hermits.
10 gallon (began as a stand-beside refugium that I was going to connect to my 55 gallon)-2 juvenile Ocellaris clowns that I hope will become a mated pair
I was contemplating a 90 gallon, a 120 gallon, or 125 gallon. Bob said "the bigger the better." I think he was referring to tank size, not something else.
<Heeeee! Tank size>
So, I did more shopping and was lucky enough to find a 180 gallon Clarity Plus that included the stand, canopy, and some accessories at a great price. I admit that I am really constructionally challenged, and I've never used a sump before.
<Get some help...>
My plan is to have a reef tank with low to moderately demanding corals, no anemones or clams.? I have a couple of concerns and questions, and I was hoping you could help me.?
1.? The tank unfortunately only has one 1" overflow.?
<Pathetic>
Not really enough from what I've read as there will only be a 300-350 gph turnover.?
<Read re... get some help with drilling, adding two or more inputs that will allow two inch inside diameter through-puts>
I plan to use a couple of powerheads to increase the flow in the display.?
<I'd look into other means... posted...>
Will this be sufficient, or do you have other suggestions?? Also, I have a Mag 7 (700 gph) pump pushing the water up 4.5'.? Does this sound feasible?
<Not what I would do. Read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
third tray down>
2.??The tank? came with a wet/dry trickle filter.? From doing research on WWM, I am aware that nitrates would become too high.? My plan is to remove the filter media and trays.? I've included a picture.
<None attached>
The overflow hose from the tank is currently split, and when it was a wet/dry,? the hose? would attach to the acrylic tops.? I'm thinking I want to set up the sump as pictured above from left compartment to right compartment, skimmer, refugium with live rock rubble and Chaetomorpha and heater, return pump.? Will this work?? Should I have water from the tank coming into both the skimmer area and the refugium, or should I take the T off and only have water coming into the skimmer area?? Also, the gap for the water to flow through under each compartment is only 1/2".? It doesn't seem as if that would be enough flow.? Would I need to drill additional holes in the acrylic between the compartments.? If so, how high should the holes be and how large?
3.? The pump already has a pipe with valve attached. I think it may be large enough to see in the photo.? It has a 1/2" ID nozzle type thing.? Does that indicate that flexible tubing was used for the return?? Wouldn't it be advantageous to use a larger output on the pump to restrict flow less?
4.? In regards to plumbing, the tank has 3 holes drilled in the top.? I'm assuming that is where the hoses or pipes? for the return go.? I'm thinking that flexible tubing can't be split from the pump (or can it?), so I'd be using PVC.? I know I need to study more, but do you have any simple suggestions regarding plumbing the pump to return the water to the tank?? Is there a directional output nozzle that would look more finished than PVC hanging in my tank.? I need Aquarium Plumbing for Dummies.
<Posted... again... read... and get some local reef/marine "guru" (ask at the stores about if there is a marine club, someone they'd recommend to come on by, give you guidance one on one>
Finally, when I first bought my 55 gallon, already stocked tank, some of the fish came down with ick after the move.? I consulted Bob, who said that given my small hospital tank and the small amount of ick, that I should just wait and see.? Well, that worked.? I purchased a cleaner shrimp, supplemented the fish food, and did many water changes to improve the quality of the water.? I know that it's still in my tank as it doesn't just go away, but I don't see it on the fish.? When I finally do get my 180 gallon ready to go, I would like to use the sand, live rock, and fish from the 55 gallon tank.? What precautions would I need to take to prevent ich from entering the new tank?? Would you recommend freshwater dips for the fish.?
<Yes... with a bit of formalin... as posted>
Should I leave the 55 gallon fallow for 6 weeks before using the rock and sand?? I'm going to keep the tank lightly stocked, maybe add another jawfish or a Lawnmower Blenny, another cleaner shrimp, and a Regal Tang (which I know are very susceptible to ick).
<Yes>
Thanks for taking the time to read this really long e-mail and for your expertise.
Sincerely,
Casey
<Keep reading... but moving ahead with the purchase... and get some local help! Bob Fenner>

A real newbie to the aquarium world  9/23/07
Hi,
<Hello there Lori>
I have been thinking about starting an aquarium for quite some time now, preferably Saltwater / Coral Reef. I am aware and have been told by many that this a big and time consuming endeavour.
<Can be... is a fascinating enterprise for sure>
I have an opportunity to purchase a Fluval Osaka 260 Fish Tank.
<Can see here: http://www.paraquatics.co.uk/en-gb/dept_156.html>
It comes with a 70 gallon tank and desk with T5 Ho 2 tubes life glow top and a Fluval 405 Hagen filter. They are saying retail on this is about $1,250.00 Canadian funds. I can purchase it for about $600.00
I wanted to know if it is a good deal but more than that is it more than I need and I am getting way above myself for a beginner.
Lori Lassman
<Mmm, well, this is certainly a strikingly beautiful set-up... But I am not a fan of this filtration (canister) as the sole source of circulation and filtering for marines... As you become a bit more familiar you'll understand that you'd be much better off with gear that was more robust and flexible... That you'll want a protein skimmer... One way of putting this is that there's more involved, and that at the very least I'd do a bunch more looking into the hobby before committing funds here. This gear would be fine for many freshwater applications (I have two such FW tank set-ups... with Eheim gear instead). I do encourage you to look into and read a couple of good "complete" marine aquarium books... this will greatly aid you in understanding what is involved, what your options are. Do feel free to write back with more specific questions. Bob Fenner>

Aquarium Set up, Marine Stocking and Equipment 9/7/07
Hello and thank you for taking my question.
<Hello to you.>
~I am a newbie to this wonderful hobby and already I feel saturated with technical information from every source I have sought information from. I think that is why it has taken me 3yrs to finally get to the point where I am ready for the commitment and challenge.
<The planning will pay off.>
My problem is I have come across great sources (this site, books, local aquarium shops, and other hobbyists) and I know there is no one right way to do this, but I feel like there are far too many ways especially for a true beginner. So, I was hoping I could post on this site my thoughts on the inhabitants for my first tank and maybe a good narrow list of suggestions for equipment could be given so that I can investigate…so here we go.
<Fire away.>
55g tank
Stock:
Live rock
Live sand
Snowflake Eel
<I would pass on this, your tank is on the bare minimum side of one of these.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/snowflakemoray.htm .>
Flame Angel
Pair sand sifting gobies
<Most sand sifters don't fair well in captivity, and will make your expensive live sand dead quite quickly.>
Pair Pink Skunk Clown
Host anemone (maybe bubble-tip)
<Pass on these, generally difficult to keep, limits addition of corals in the future, and completely unnecessary for the clown's well being.>
~So if I could receive a few device names/model types I could research
further that would be great.
Filtration (canister vs. wed/dry vs. refugium), ? Filtration media
<If you are so inclined get a sump, forget the canister/wetdry, they are only really necessary for heavily stocked aquariums and can be maintenance headaches. Refugiums are quite helpful, either one on the hang-on-tank types or create one in your sump if you go that route.>
Lights
<Depends on what you want to keep, need quite strong lighting for anemones and some corals, less so for less photosynthetic corals or just plain old live rock.>
Skimmer
< http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/cav1i1/protein_skimmer_impressions.htm >
Circulation
< http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/cav1i4/power_heads/Power_Heads.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i1/Powerhead_test/powerhead_comp.htm >
Heating
< http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_2/cav2i3/heater_impressions/heater_impressions.htm >
Thank you
Anthony
<Check out the excellent reviews of specific equipment by Steven Pro for CA magazine and see if they help.>
<Chris>

Equipment Set up- Using your book as guidance but LFS's x3 not helping. 8/23/07
Dear Mr. Fenner:
<Hello, but not Bob, Chris here with you this morning.>
Ok, well, I’m reading your book and it is helping me out substantially. I am half way through it. I've spent countless evenings browsing your website and also read up elsewhere. Your sources are the best!
<Thanks>
However, I am being overwhelmed and confused by my LFS’s (3 of them) while I am trying to set up a new 55gal system that has flexibility for advancement from a
beginner/intermediate FOWLR type to possible an advanced reef system. I’ve done fresh water for over 10 years and taking the leap.
<Welcome to the salty side.>
Let me tell you a few things I’m being told by 2-3 different LFS’s.
LFS #1 is telling me:
- The Live Sand issue of being beneficial in the tank is a bunch of hogwash. Go with bare bottom or minimal for decorating purposes only.
<Sand is generally beneficial, although bare-bottomed tanks are still popular.>
- Regarding the filter systems- For a Fish population tank, DO NOT use live rock and use a wet/dry and a good skimmer, For Reef, go sump refugium with live rock and a replace the skimmer for a UV and have None or only a Few fish.
<I always recommend using a skimmer, and they do very different things than UVs, which I generally don't think are necessary at all. Sumps are nice but not necessary, and wet/dries can be maintenance head-aches, although usefully with heavy stocking. I have never seen a tank that does not benefit for live rock.>
I am also then being told that I must Choose which direction, then and only then can I plan the appropriate equipment.
<In my opinion the basis for a good reef tank is built on a good FOWLR, so in my mind they are on the same path.>
- Fish get sick, its going to happen so get used to it. If I mix live rock and Fish, I will have to choose one of them. If I choose to save the fish, I’ll have a bunch of dead rubble on my hands. If I choose the live rock, The fish are dead if they are not already. Than he said garlic juice only works once! (I’ve never heard that one before)
<That is quite a statement. They are sort of right in that treating LR with copper or antibiotics will damage it, but that is why QT and hospital tanks are so important.>
- I asked him if a wet/dry using LR in lieu of bio-balls would help, reply was that that’s a sump than, not a wet/dry.
<Depends on how it is set up, but basically wet/dry has lots of air available while in a sump generally everything is submerged.>
LFS #2 is telling me:
- 2” depth (of all LS or at least 50%/50% LS and dry sand to save $) is needed for a bed and Not to use crushed coral as an aggregate because it will fluctuate the PH or Calcium too much (I cant remember which one he stated).
<I would say less than 1 inch or more than 4, anything in the middle just traps debris without the nitrate reduction benefit. And LS and crushed coral are made out of the same thing, and both buffer and stabilize the pH. Crushed coral's problem is that it tends to trap detritus and is difficult to clean.>
- A wet/dry is the way to go with a good skimmer and my tank type options are all open.
<I would replace the wet/dry with LR.>
- He suggested the CPR Bak pak 75 with the built in skimmer.
- A possible upgrade of the filter is to remove the bio-ball for LR rubble.
- Water changes if any and how often is predicated on your filter type.
Wet/dry will be minimal. Hmmmm, I’m am doubtful now.
<Water changes are key here as I'm sure you know. CPR makes a decent product but I'm not a fan of all-in-one tanks, I think a alacart method works better.>
LFS #3- can’t remember but I know they (looked down upon and) steered me away of the combo ProClear pro 75 wet/dry that had the integral skimmer.
<Forget those integrated skimmers, their performance is almost always sub-par.>
The bottom line is that I’m looking for guidance to the recommended equipment scenario for flexibility to upgrade tank type, low maintenance and reasonable but fair set up cost. Oh, and by the way, how does this all fit below in the typical 55 gal tank cabinet that is only 10” (clear) deep and 48” wide?
<Can be a tight fit if you go with a sump design, which has many benefits, but to be honest there is nothing wrong with hang-on-back equipment, I use this style myself on my 46G.>
Could you guide in any way by possibly confirming or denying the above statements they are telling me.
Your new friend,
Ken
<If you are comfortable with plumbing a sump I would go this route, otherwise I like a simple LR, skimmer setup based on a modified "Berlin" method. You have to look at all the equipment in the tank but can be easier to get into than plumbing a sump. Also I am going to push the QT/hospital tank procedures Bob writes about in his book, they go a long way towards success.>
<Chris>

Equipment and Confusion, bad LFS Advice, Cleaning Up the Mess 7/30/07... induced troubles, stkg.
I would like to sincerely thank all of you for your hard work and especially your knowledge!
<I avoid hard work whenever possible.>
I am new to the hobby and have a 56 and a 55 gal. <Jumping right in I see.>
I am so lost right now with all of the reading and the less than honest LFS's (plural) I am starting to consider giving up!
<Bluto's speech from Animal House is now going through my head.>
The tanks are essentially disasters waiting to happen and I want to get this turned around or have to get out.
<Well then, let's get it turned around.>
56 has: Rena XP4, BakPak 2, Rena Air 400, Coralife lights 1 65 watt 03 actinic and 1 65 watt 10,000. The livestock are 1 blue hippo tang, 1 Koran, 1 yellow tang, a percula, 2 Haitian anemones, 20 lbs live rock, 3" of crushed coral and sand mixed, 8 crabs, 7 snails, watermelon mushrooms and a leather.
<Oh boy.>
This is obviously horrible and was done with the encouragement of the owner of a LFS that has a solid reputation.
<So much for reputation.>
Since adding the lights a brown algae has taken off in full bloom on the glass. Where do I start to fix this?
<Usually this will cycle out, otherwise just monitor nutrients and frequent water changes.>
I would like to keep the leather, mushrooms, and the percula if possible.
<That should be doable.>
The leather lays on it's side if the lights are off but with the lights on the algae just explodes.
<Need to leave the lights on for the leather, combat the diatoms through nutrient control.>
55 has: Fluval 304 and a Rena XP3, a powerhead with unknown name as it's really old but still actually very strong, 3" of live sand, 20 lbs of live rock, 2 chromis, 1 yellow fin damsel, 1 3 stripe damsel, 1 maroon clown (very tiny), 1 coral beauty, mushrooms, an unknown orange soft coral, and 2 bubble tip anemones.
<Well, the fish may be ok, quite an aggressive group there, the mixing of corals and anemones is not great as I'm sure you have read.>
Found a different LFS for this one and did much more research on this store but again this was all done under the guidance of the owner.
I realize now that this is horrible too.
<Less horrible but more workable I think.>
Water tests for both tanks have been good at all of the LFS and here at home. Nothing out of whack.
<Good>
I have ordered a 48" Aquactinics Solar Flare and an Aqua C Remora Pro with Mag 3 skimmer for the 55. What do I need for water flow (I can't even tell if I have enough!) or really anything?
<Looking for 10X tank volume turn over, 20X better. I prefer several small powerheads to just one or two larger ones.>
I have tried to take back the anemones and the LFS owner said he didn't remember our conversation and too bad.
<How nice for him.>
Since it can always get worse, I asked for recommendations on a reputable LFS in the area and went yesterday. They convinced me I needed a very expensive, massive 1/2 hp chiller (for that future expansion) and a typhoon skimmer for the 55 since the Aqua C "won't work" and the lights will "fry my fish."
<You have some interesting LFS near you for sure.>
I have spent over 3000.00 and have a massive mess. I have read until I cannot see straight and each thing I read seems better than the last: the Tunze power heads then the EcoTech VorTech and on and on. Right now I hear 2 things: you don't need a "nice" things (skimmers, power heads) for tanks this size but you do need 1/2 hp chillers....uh-huh. I am not an innocent victim and it's completely my fault for listening.
<I'll say multiple sources are best, including ourselves.>
When I am so confused, it all sounds like a much better idea then what I am doing.
<Stop and take a day off from worrying, clear your head and then come back to it.>
Any help would be more than greatly appreciated because I will either get this fixed or there will be a big sale on craigslist for almost all barely used equipment
Sara Rowe
<My two cents is lets keep it simple and work with what you have. A good skimmer on each tank, use the canisters for water movement, and thin the stock as much as possible to start with, some additions can come later. Try to combine all the corals in one tank and the anemones in the other if you can't return them. Forget the chiller, if you can maintain between 79 and 82 in the tanks you don't need it, and a $10 fan blowing across the top of the tank often works as well as a chiller if you need it. Try to double the amount of rock in each tank, however to save some money use base rock and the LR will seed it. Same with sand to replace the crushed coral. So to summarize, LR, Skimmer, sand and water movement are the immediate goals here.>
<Chris>

Re: Equipment and Confusion, bad LFS Advice, Cleaning Up the Mess 7/30/07  8/3/07
I really appreciate this!
<Welcome, and sorry for the delay in responding, have been traveling lately.>
The LFS in my area are indeed interesting to say the least. Open and very vocal disdain for each other is just not a good sign.
<I hate it when companies do this, turns me off of them.>
I agree that clearing my head is the best thing to do for a day. To clarify, do I leave the lights on all of the time on the 56 then? Or long cycles with only a few hours off?
<Sorry I was not clear there, run them for the normal 12 hour cycle.>
Last question is the water flow. I have looked at the Tunze nano power heads, the Wave2K, and the VorTec. Obviously sort of a large range! I would like to think that a couple of the Tunze on the 55 would work if I am calculating correctly. Opinions or other suggestions? As for the 56 I think I am right on the verge of enough flow but again only if I am calculating the flow correctly.
<The Tunze's should do nicely, they are a great product.>
Just tonight I did find some local LR from a guy that is breaking down his tank and it's really nice and inexpensive! It should be enough to double both tanks.
<Perfect.>
Oh I did think of one more question: I was of the understanding that the anemones cannot be mixed with other anemones. I am fine combining them but want to make sure I don't kill anything else--I am 75% sure my one is already dead after just 7 days but is surprisingly that's my only death. The other one ate out of my hand tonight much to the clowns dismay. The clown took the food out of the mouth of the anemone and then put it right back in as if to show me this was his job not mine---kind of cute after all of this.
<Clowns have quite the personalities. As far as mixing anemones it is not great, but better that mixing with coral most of the time.>
I thank you, as does my bank account, for being the voice of reason!
Sara
<Welcome>
<Chris>

Our first saltwater tank
We just bought a salt water tank. I have some questions that I would like to ask. I have searched the web and cant seem to find any answers to my questions. My first question is why do we need a special lighting for the corral and not the anenomes?
<Both groups need "reasonable" illumination... See WWM re...
What is the difference between the live rock and the corral?
<... What? LR is an artifice/description for aquarium material, alive and not... corral's are for horses et al. terrestrial mammal husbandry>
Do the live rock change colors?
<Mmm, not the rock per se, but the profusion of changing life on/in it>
The live rock that I bought are white, will they change colors sometime?
<Likely with algae growing on it, yes>
We are starting out with a 20 gallon tank so far. It has been good and we have not had any fish die on us yet so we must be doing something right. thanks - Jennell
<Do learn to and use the search tool, indices on WWM... Bob Fenner>

Established Tank (re) Setup 6/7/07
Hello. I am new to the hobby and will be asking generic stupid questions. I have looked through the FAQ and could not find my stupid little question. (sorry) <No worries.> I will be receiving an established 120 gallon tank in two weeks. The live sand and rock will be preserved during the move. The filter and sump will keep some of the water. Now for my question . . . will it be necessary to have 120 gallons of water deionized, de-chlorinated, and mixed with salt before the tank arrives? <Yes, filling with fresh water and then adding salt will kill all life on the LR and sand.> Can I set it up like a new tank with out preparing the water in a large garbage can . . . and then siphoning 120 gallons of water into the new tank . . . without killing all the good bacteria? <No> What will be the best way to do this? Thank you in advance for your patience and understanding.
<A couple of large water containers, a pump, and some hose is the best way to do this. The water needs to be prepared before adding to the tank.>
<Chris>

Re: Established Tank Setup 6/7/07
Thank you so much for your fast and direct response. <Welcome> By the way, the tank featuring the Mysis shrimp using the 'images' link, AWESOME!!!! <It is.> I am so
excited to receive my tank. 13 days and counting!!
<Good luck and welcome to the hobby. Hope you enjoy it as much as I do.>
<Chris>

Re: Established Tank Setup 6/7/07
Thank you so much for your fast and direct response. <Welcome> By the way, the tank featuring the Mysis shrimp using the 'images' link, AWESOME!!!! <It is.> I am so
excited to receive my tank. 13 days and counting!!
<Good luck and welcome to the hobby. Hope you enjoy it as much as I do.>
<Chris>

In The Beginning... New to marines  6/6/07
Hi
<Hi there! Scott F, with you today!>
I've been keeping freshwater fish for the last 5 years, and am just about to switch over to marines.
<An exciting new world for you!>
I've done a lot of research, both on the web and in books/magazines, but I still have loads of questions, so I'd value your opinions/suggestions about what I'm about to do.
<Glad to be of service!>
I'm planning on keeping mainly fish, but if all goes well then adding some soft corals after a time.
<A nice progression...>
The fish I'd particularly like to keep include a Clownfish, a Regal tang, a Dwarf angel, plus as many others as the tank can comfortably accommodate.
<Good thought...Always take into account the maximum sizes of your fishes and their long term needs, then plan your system accordingly.>
I have a Rena 120 panoramic tank, which has a water volume of  220 litres.
<A nice size to start with, but too small a water volume/physical size to keep the Regal Tang...You'll have to employ careful stocking of very small fishes and good husbandry in this small volume of water.>
I've read a lot about the "Berlin" method of filtration, and am going to give that a go. I plan to use just a shallow layer of substrate, maybe 1 inch, of CaribSea Arag-Alive sand (I bought this by mistake, I thought I was
buying Aragamax, but will it make any difference?).
<Not a major difference...Grain size might be slightly different, but negligible, IMO.>
I have an AquaC Remora protein skimmer which will run from a Maxijet 1200 powerhead. It also has a small pre-skim box into which I'm thinking of adding some activated carbon
(how long should that stay in there, all the time, or just periodically?)
<Well, chemical filtration media, such as activated carbon, can be used continuously, but should be changed out very frequently to maintain their effectiveness.>
I'm thinking of NOT using any external canister filter at all, instead relying on live rock and the protein skimmer for the main filtration.
<A common, very successful practice. With proper stocking, careful maintenance, and overall good husbandry, you'll be able to run a nice system this way.>
From what I've read, I reckon I'll need about half a kilo per gallon of live rock, so maybe 30kg live rock total (lots of questions about this - does that sound like the right amount?
<Should be fine...You could probably even get by with less, in my experience.>
Will it look odd if I'm not keeping lots of corals?
<I don't think so...FOWLR (Fish Only with Live Rock) aquariums look pretty cool, in my opinion.>
Should I buy it all in one go?
<I have done it that way, and I've also done it gradually. If the rock is cured, I'd just as soon add it all at once. Your call.>
Presumably it's safer to buy cured rock than try to cure it myself?).
<Well, there's no danger in curing it yourself. You can cure it in the display (not my preferred technique), or you could cure it in a large plastic trash can or container. If cost is not an object, pre-cured rock is a nice luxury. There still might be some die-off and curing that has to occur, even in "pre-cured" rock, though.>
For extra water flow, I was thinking of 2 extra Maxijet 1200's (is that too much? is there an optimum layout for
positioning powerheads?).
<I think a lot of flow is a nice idea in most systems, unless you're keeping animals that require very minimal water flow.>
I read an article today on WWM which said that it's the animals in the rock which produce the water flow by burrowing in and out, rather than pumps forcing water through - (in which case do I really need 2 extra powerheads?)
<I would use them.>
Light-wise, since I'm starting with just fish and rock, I was thinking of either 2x T8 tubes (marine white + blue actinic), or 2xT5 tubes, in either case the output will be around 2x39W (is that enough for the size of tank? Will I need more when I move on to adding soft corals?)
<Well, if you're not keeping photosynthetic inverts from the start, you could get by with this lighting scheme. However, if corals are in your future, I'd invest in a "coral capable" lighting system from the start. Consider T5 systems. Consult your dealer or check out some online vendors for options.>
For the Regal Tangs, I believe they're susceptible to whitespot, so will I need a UV filter to help prevent that?
<As above, you'll really need a larger system to keep any Tang, in my opinion. These fishes get quite large, are active swimmers, and will need much larger water volumes and space to live for anything approaching a natural life span.>
Any help / suggestions would be very much appreciated
Thanks!
Len
<Glad to be of service, Len! Just keep reading, learning and plan your system with the long term in mind. Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>

Re: new to marines  6/9/07
Hi guys,
I emailed you a couple of days ago about equipment - thanks for the quick response and good advice. I'm just about to start up a marine tank with lots of (pre-cured) live rock and a protein skimmer for filtration (no external canister). Next bunch of questions is about the sequence of how to get it all going - I was thinking it would be something like this ...
. install heaters, pumps etc. into dry tank (better suction when glass is dry)
. rinse sand if necessary, then add to tank (before or after water?)
. fill tank with RO water, heat to 25C, add salt and turn on powerheads to mix (leave for a couple of days?)
. do I add live rock now, or wait until the tank matures? surely the live rock needs to be part of the maturation cycle as it'll house the filtering bacteria? should I add it all in one go, or does it not make much difference?
. do I need to turn on lights now (if so, for 12 hrs a day, or less during this stage?)
. do I need to get the protein skimmer working at this point, or only after adding fish later?
. how do I encourage bacteria to grow? will it just happen on its own, or can you buy some sort of maturation fluid to add to the water? or do you just put in some fish food?
. test water for next 4-6 weeks, wait until ammonia, nitrite etc. levels are ok
. do you do any water changes while the tank is maturing?
Thanks
Len
<This is all posted... along with other input you will need... Please: learn to/use the search tool, indices on WWM... Start here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/index.htm
The linked files... in blue. Bob Fenner>

First Saltwater Tank 5/25/07
Hi! <Hello> I have just recently set up my first saltwater tank.   I've had freshwater for years but never before have I ventured into salt.  <It's fun.>  I've got a 40g Long tank, no live rock as of yet, no skimmer, Penguin Bio-Wheel Filter, salinity is 1.023, PH of 8.4, Ammonia and Nitrites are 0, Nitrate is 20. <If you are going to add live rock (which I highly recommend), do it soon, because it will cause havoc with your water parameters at first, causing another cycle.  Also, get a skimmer too, much better than a bio-wheel filter for marine applications.>  I feed New Life Spectrum pellet foods exclusively to my freshwater fish and after a discussion with Pablo (the developer of NLS) I intend to try my salties on the same diet. <Good stuff.>  I plan to use Thera-A in the .35mm and 1mm sizes.  I also will use the NLS Stable Wafers, primarily for my Lawnmower Blenny since algae is in rather short supply as yet. <Another reason to get the LR soon.>  My question is regarding compatibility.  I've got a list of fish/inverts decided on but I'd like to double check that they'll be compatible before leaping in with two feet.   The tank currently has the following:
1- Lawnmower Blenny
2- Yellow and Gold Chromis
I plan on adding the following fish/inverts eventually if they'll be compatible..
1- Flame Angel <Would skip, the tank is a little small for it and with the other livestock your probably pushing it a little too much.>
1- Skunk Cleaner Shrimp
1- Neon Goby
2- Banggai Cardinalfish (I plan to acquire a small group of these, allow them to pair and then return all but one pair. ) and possibly 1- Tiger Dragon Goby
Thanks for your time!
-Heather
<Seems ok, but with a little study you can tell the difference between male and female cardinals, so you won't need to go through all the extra purchasing.  Don't forget to QT everything.>
<Chris>

Marine Sys.    5/15/07
I remember reading a long time ago that the dawning of the age of marine aquariums came with the realization that we can't ever hope to duplicate the ocean and that we had to stop thinking we could do that -- and find alternatives to trying.  But this got me to thinking.  I have a 55 gallon Fish/Live Rock/snails & hermit crabs tank.  I have a Fluval 405 with bio media, activated charcoal and Chemi-Pure in the canister, a CPR Bak-Pak protein skimmer.  I change 15% of the water every Tuesday with Instant Ocean mix from my LFS (which is made with RO/DI water) and on top of that, I run a tiny 40 gph pump to a canister with 20 Ounces of Hydrocarbon2 activated carbon for about 20 hours a week.  My Ammonia, Nitrites, Nitrates and Phosphates are 0.0
1) Is there anything left to do or improve?
<Mmm, compared with the sea? Much more circulation... Compared with what might be done for captive husbandry? Likely an Ozonizer to improve ReDox, a refugium with a DSB, macroalgae on a RDP light setting...>
2) Am I still essentially running a mini sewer system?
<Heeeee! To a degree, yes... one with a partial "flush" every week!>
Regards As always,
Darrel
<Thank you for writing, sharing. Bob Fenner>

55 gallon saltwater setup, & Archer sys...    4/15/07
Hi,  I currently purchased a used 55g bowfront aquarium.  Also  included were 2 powerfilters (1 filters 60 gallons and the other I  THINK filters 45), 1 undergravel filter, a DE filter (I have never heard of  these filters for aquariums, it looks like my pool filter but on a smaller  scale!)
<Ah, this is what it is... a Diatomaceous Earth filter... for periodic (non-continuous) use... See Vortex Products site on the Net, WWM re... >
several heaters, air pumps, and other accessories.  What I would  like to do is setup a saltwater aquarium for a Spot-finned lionfish (Pterois  antennata) and a green wolf eel starting now and finishing by the end of the  summer.  Is my tank big enough for the species I have selected?  
<Mmm, not really indefinitely...>
Which  filter would you recommend using?
<All the power filters, likely the undergravel... but you need much more useful knowledge...
http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm>
I have been told to use a mix of live  sand and crushed coral for the substrate, is this ok?
<Can/could be>
  I really don't want  a lot of fish that will overcrowd my tank so I think I will most likely stick  with the two I already mentioned, but, to keep my options open, are there any  other fish that would suit my setup?  
<... many>
What is a good online retailer to get  them from?  
<Posted...>
Also, I have a 30g brackish aquarium with a puffer* and a needle nose gar   that has been setup for 1 year.  I would like to add a couple of archers  and a screen section to the top for feed items like crickets for the  archers.  the puffer is 4 inches and the gar is 6 inches (neither have  grown in several months).  Would this be a suitable setup?
<Not likely room enough... Toxotids need more "running" room than this arrangement>
Thank you for all your time and help.
K. Sned
* The puffer was given to me by a friend who bought him from a LFS as  a "black river puffer".  She kept him in a 2.5g freshwater tank  (YIKES) with a couple of Monos (DOUBLE YIKES) as she was told this was  a "more than suitable" setup by the LFS.  When I got the puffer he was very  dull and had cloudy eyes.
I put him in a 10g hospital tank for several  weeks and began to gradually add instant ocean.  I had to entice him to eat  with ghost shrimp which he started taking after a week when he refused all other  foods.  He is now a bright brown-almost-gold with spots, a white  underbelly, and yellow on his sides.  
His eyes are clear and they are a  bright blue surrounded by a reddish orange.
<Read my friend... learn to/use the indices, search tool on WWM... MUCH related material is organized, archived there for alls perusal, growth, sharing. Bob Fenner>

New tank set up... SW... eventually reef...    3/15/07
Hi everybody
<Hello, Brandon here tonight.>
I need some help with the following. I want to set up a 200 gallon fish tank now, and maybe add some invertebrates/corals later on.
<If I were you, I would begin reading here, http://www.wetwebmedia.com/circmarart.htm, then follow the links at the top of the page.>
I have a live reef (Berlin type system). Will live rock and the sand be enough or should I add a power canister or bio balls in the sump making it wet/dry.
<I would not worry about the canister, or the bio-balls.  I would however, make sure that I had an oversized protein skimmer.  I personally have an affinity for AquaC.>
Your help is greatly appreciated !
<You are most welcome.  Brandon.>
best regards
Kostas

Pump & Stocking Advice... actually SW siting, set-up in gen.  – 03/09/07
Thanks again for taking time out to answer questions from those of us who are getting restarted in the hobby after a lengthy hiatus as a result of serving in the Armed Forces overseas.
<Glad to help all...>
I have a couple of locations that I can set up my reef.  My first choice would be my living room, but there is surround sound and I am hesitant to set it up there due to there being a surround sound speaker nearby.  This will only come into play when we watch DVDs.  Do you foresee a problem with setting it up here?
<Mmm, not likely a problem... unless the "bass" is so loud you can feel it...>
I do have a 2nd location, however, I would not be able to share my "piece of the ocean" as effectively if I put it in the master bedroom.
<Mmm... well... unless your gear is very quiet, and the sound of moving water doesn't bother you...>
I would REALLY like to put it in the living room but don't want to stress the fish out (I never have the speakers too loud anyway out of respect for neighbors).
<This will be fine... If you've spent time underwater in the tropics... I have... you know it is often quite a noisy place>
I would also like to ask if you recommend adding a calcium reactor or if I religiously add calcium supplements every day, is the reactor necessary?
<Not necessary, but a valuable tool in many circumstances... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcreactors.htm
and the linked files above... I've yet to split up these into subFAQs like "Rationale"... which is where I was going to refer you>
I will be running either an Iwaki
70 or 100 and I will be adding two Tunze Stream pumps as well.
<Nice gear>
Is there any advantage to cycling the tank with the Iwaki and adding the Streams later or would it be more beneficial to run the Iwaki and the streams during the entire cycling process?
<I'd run all including a skimmer>
Thanks once again for your assistance.  This forum has proved extremely invaluable.  Have a great day!   
  Scott
<And you, Bob Fenner>

New Marine Aquarium Set-Up; sump, refugia   3/4/07
Hi,
<Hello.>
As so many requesters to this site I am amazed at the expertise you all have on, what seems to me to be an increasingly complex pastime.
<Thank you.>
I would like to ask the first of probably many questions
I have kept tropical for 15 years (CO2 injected planted aquarium)
<Ooh pretty.>
and been running a 2'x2'x2' marine tank with lots of live rock for the last 2 years (keeping Nemo), I also have a 2'x2'x2' gal tank FULL of live rock connected to this.
<I'm sure that helps out with the microfauna population.>
I am in the process of moving my main 6'x2'x18" over to marine and am currently collecting and researching equipment (as perhaps the tank of live rock shows).
I spend most of my time fascinated with the tiny life on the rocks and am looking for a real natural mix of small peaceful  species including inverts and corals (although I don't know which sorts yet as all the really beautiful stuff (bright colours) is either really hard to keep or eats its neighbour ;) ) I like things like pipe fish and small shrimps.
<Well unless your willing to dedicate a species-only display to the pipefish, you'll have to be counting those out to.>
Mandarins
<Do research these, have VERY specific dietary needs and are notoriously short lived...most starve.>
(though I think opinion will be that these upset the DSB,
<The mandarins? Are not sand burrowing in nature.>
and Copperbands to keep down the antipia
<Aiptasia?>
(here I'm told I'll lose coral polyps)
<Is a possibility, also not a very hardy animal to be honest.>
I have about 90kg of crushed coral sand @ 1mm (I think this will give 4"-6" DSB) and am planning to have a full length live rock back drop bottom to top (don't know how many KG but will purchase what I'm short of) and am now considering the extra filtration. Here's that question.
I imagined that I would run a sump tank with a trickle (wet / dry) element
<I actually don't like wet-dry filtration in reef set-ups. I much prefer the combo of macro-algae refugia, lots of water flow and a powerful protein skimmer.>
that could contain all the heaters and pumps (returning via a multi directional manifold above the tank)
<I would use one main pump in a straight (non-split return line), then use the other pumps to create a closed loop manifold.>
but having read some (lots)  of the articles on this site am now not convinced that a wet / dry media like bio balls would give me anything,
<Yes, see my comment above.>
I also seem to be planning so much live rock in the main tank that I'm not sure if I need any in the sump  tank. I do imaging that a algae growth area (is this refugium <refugium.> ?)  
<Refugium is a general term for a "refuge" area to keep animals separate that would have a hard time thriving in the display, one of the uses is, yes, the growth of macro-algae...>
Would be an advantage.
<Yes they are.>
Does it seem with so much live rock and DSB I need a sump at all ?
<The word sump is a general term for an area lower in than the main body of water to keep extra equipment. They are in my opinion an advantage, aesthetically and functionally.>
My next question will be about lights but I will try to establish exactly what I would like to keep before asking that one :-)
<A good idea.>
Regards
Steve
<Adam J.>

Getting Back in the Game   2/11/07
Hi my name is Rob and I am very excited to finally ask a question or two...
<Welcome Rob.>
I have been getting information from all kinds of sources and have found my self plugging into wetwebmedia.com every day.
<Great.>
Thanks for the great info!
<Thanks for reading.>
I am getting back into the game after ten years and am amazed at the change in set up and advancement in technologies.
<My dad same the thing about TV's about a month ago.>
Let me start by saying the initial cost in set up is a little overwhelming and my wife is about to kill me,
<Have heard that one once or twice....or more.>
whaa whaa we all have heard this I am sure...
<Oh yes, hehe.>
Thankfully I kept my tank but am redoing everything else.
<Sounds like a fun project.>
So here it is I have a 110 gallon and I was going to go with strictly fish because I was pretty successful at it the first time around (though when I look back compared to today I do not realize how the fish even survived!)  
<A good analogy is to compare the computers we have now to the computers NASA used in the first moon expeditions....crazy that they didn't all die.>
I used just dead crushed coral and dead display coral,
<Be careful with these. The former can be quite the detritus trap and the latter is infamous in attracting various forms of algae.>
and I put some damsels in the tank and it began to cycle over a period of time.
<Be sure to read WWM re: marine cycling, the use of animals to do is since taboo as well.>
I set my tank up about a week and a half ago; I removed all of the bio balls from my wet dry and added a sock filter, I put 120lbs of Indo Pacific LS and 106 lbs of Tonga LR.
<Sounding much better!>
I am circulating water back into the tank utilizing a Mag 9.5 and realize that I need more flow and will be adding a 1200 gph power head, I just purchased a Nova Extreme light (and it is magnificent) two titanium heaters 300 watts apiece and here in lies the question; I have noticed a slow progression of white slim on the heaters I am concerned but not about to make a knee jerk reaction. I am wondering what it is?
<Likely bacterial/organic in origin...do you have water parameter readings?>
It seems to be primarily on the black portion of the heaters and very sticky. The live rock also is starting to turn a rust color is this normal?
<For newer tanks can be common, search WWM re: diatom algae.>
I am also looking into buying an ATI bubble master protein skimmer
<Not familiar with his brand but a good skimmer is key here.>
because of the small sump area I like the idea of the pump located in the skimmer because of the space but I question if there is a failure in the pump does this mean the skimmer is no longer useful ?
<Pump would have to be replaced/repaired.>
Also I am wondering because of the displacement of water to rock would this handle a good fish load combined with some inverts?
<Well how about you send me a list of what you plan to add.>
I only have about 12'' x12 space in the sump and trying hard to find something that will fit in it, I considered a hang on skimmer but prefer to utilize the sump.
<Smaller AquaC's may fit into this area.>
OH! one other thing I added four damsel the other day, caught up in old habits I guess, but they seem to be doing fine I am not feeding them to much.
<A testament to the hardiness of this animal.>
Every other day small amounts I have heard that I should probably take them out but my daughter likes them.
<Can become territorial...just so you know.>
There are two yellow tails that I will probably keep a domino
<At the very least take the latter out.>
and a white tail humbug that people are telling me to get rid of because they will tend to be aggressive.
<Very much so.>
Your thoughts!
<All above.>
Any help will be
appreciated thanks and have a good day!
<You too, AdamJ.>

Initial Setup Questions... and Answers, SW    1/11/07
Ok, I have read through your site, and many others. But there is a lot of conflicting information out there. I apologize for asking the newbie questions I am sure you have heard over and over again.
<Hi Jason, Mich with you today.>
I have recently purchased a 29 gallon, all in one tank (Oceanic BioCube 29).  The tank has 3 chambers in the back.  The first draws water from the main tank and passes it through a small cartridge filter.  This spills over into
the second chamber, which has a strainer on top, and bioballs below.  The water moves into the third chamber, which remains about 1/2 full, and is pumped out back into the tank.
<OK.>
I have been running the tank on just tap water (unsalted) for about a week to check for leaks and general badness while I waited for my stand to get shipped to me. So far so good.
<Very good.  Are you planning on replacing the tap water with DI/RO water?  I would recommend this.>
I have purchased about 1-2 inches worth of live Aragonite sand, and plan on getting 30 or so pounds of live rock as well.
<I would recommend a sand bed that is either an inch or less of sand or 3 inches or more deep, the later will assist in denitrification.>    
I have read on your site and many others that bio balls are bad due to the nitrate production. Since I haven't even started my cycle yet, should I remove the bioballs up front?
<You could.  I would add the sand, change the water, get the live rock and start the cycling process.>
I thought about replacing them with live rock gravel, but since the middle chamber is not completely submerged, and receives no light, is this a problem?   
<No, still a possibility.  You could try to leave room if possible for a small amount of macroalgae, which should be submerged and typically will do OK if provided a minimal amount of light.>
I have read posts of people saying they were turning their middle
(wet/dry?) chamber into a refugium or sump. Could you explain a bit more what this means?
<Yes.  This is usually is a lower flow area containing macroalgae (Chaetomorpha is typically recommended) and sometimes sand, live rock.  It provides refuge to various microfauna which would most likely be consumed if in the display section of the tank.  This area is kept as a safe breading ground for the various beneficial microfauna to perpetually supplies the system with a more natural diet and environment.>  
Every where I have seen refugium described (http://saltaquarium.about.com/cs/aquariumdiy/a/aa041400.htm) it seems like it's a place for seahorses and such, but that doesn't make any sense for a wet/dry!
<Yes, I understand the confusion.  Seahorses are also kept in lower flow tanks with a some macroalgae.  They are often independent systems, a refuge for the seahorse, but are often the primary display, it too is called a refugium.>
My "all in one" does not include a protein skimmer. Is this a mandatory item, or will my water changes and live rock take care of it?
<It is a highly beneficial and recommended item.  Can you keep up with only water changes?  If you're vigilant, yes.  Will you keep up with only water changes?  That's the difficult question.>
Also, my LFS says I could fit 7 fish in my 29G, putting in one or two at a time and letting them acclimate. However, my reading on the various forums leads me to believe that the limit would be much less than that (3-4?).  How many can I fit?
<Yikes!  Seven is way too many!  Three to four is more appropriate.>
LFS also said coral, cleaning crew, etc does not contribute to the limit of fish in the tank. Is this true?
<Mmm, sort of.  They do not contribute to the same degree as fish do.>
Ok, so that's my first batch of newbie questions. Sorry that I am sure you have answered these many times.
<We're here to help.>
Thanks,
<Welcome!  -Mich>
Jason

Questions from a SW beginner  12/30/06
Hello I am 15 yr. old beginning my first salt water tank.
<Hello and welcome!>
I have had fresh water tanks in the past but I understand that salt and fresh water tanks are very different.
<In many respects, yes...>
I had my 25 gallon tank cycling for 2 days before I went to the LFS where I got a piece of live rock and 3 snails (I was told this would help the cycling process.)  I have been reading that damsels are the best fish to start your new tank with.
<I am personally a fan of "fishless" cycling.  This can be done with a tiny pinch of fish food in the tank, daily, or a small piece of cocktail shrimp.  Basically, you want the food/shrimp to start decaying/breaking down, to cause a spike in ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, respectively.  Once that has happened, your tank is said to be cycled.  Read here for a very helpful article on the cycling process (I know the article is entitled "freshwater cycling", but the same concept applies here in the marine world):
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm
I don't like to recommend cycling with fish, even hardy ones like damsels, as I personally find it cruel and unnecessary.  Also, many folks don't want to keep their damsels or other "starter fish" after the cycle is complete - what to do then?>
I guess my first question would be when can I start adding in fish to my tank (its been running for 3 days now)...
<...invest in a quality liquid test kit to measure high-end (saltwater) pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.  Once you've seen each spike then fall, in that order, your cycle will be complete.  In SW systems, this happens generally in about 4 weeks.>