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Lighting 11/5/08
Hello, Hope all is going well for you today. I have a question on lighting,
please. I am setting up a 75 gallon fw tank with a black background. I am
probably going to have a couple of java ferns . I plan on having pearl Gouramis,
rainbow fish, cribs and some Corys. I have done some reading about selecting the
right lighting but can find nothing very specific. I guess it all a matter of
taste, but could you please recommend a type of lighting for this setup that
will be attractive, bring out the colors of the fish and also be comfortable for
the fish? I appreciate your help with this!
James
<Hello James. Java ferns generally adapt to a range of lighting conditions.
Something around two watts per gallon should be appropriate, given that a 75
gallon tank is going to be fairly deep. One thing about Java ferns is that they
rot if not planted properly; they are epiphytes and should be attached to wood
or rock. Often you see them sold in pots: that's fine for when they're being
grown in a hydroculture system, but doesn't work once the pot is stuck in sand
or gravel. So unpot the plants and bind them to bogwood with dark cotton thread.
You can sometimes buy them already attached to bogwood; these are useful and
good value. Anubias and Java moss require exactly the same treatment, and the
three plants are often used in combination. When choosing lights, go with ones
designed specifically for plant growth. You can get pinkish tubes called Gro-Lux
that work well with plants and make the red colours on your fish very intense.
The downside is that these lights don't "punch" the light very far, so most
aquarists prefer to use the much "punch" blue and blue-white tubes. It doesn't
matter too much to the fish, particularly if you add some floating plants (like
Indian Ferns) to create some instant shade. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Lighting 11/6/08
Thank you Neale, Good information. I learned something. Didn't know they had
lights just for plant growth. I do have some driftwood and was going to tie the
java fern to that, but I was also going to let some float because I had read
that that is what the Gouramis felt comfortable with, and I was thinking the
colors on the fish would show up better with floating plants since I was going
to use a light colored substrate. But you say that java fern will rot like that
so I may just forget the floaters and use a darker substrate (like 3m
colorquartz). I have never tried live plants before anyway and am kind of leery.
Also, do the lights made specifically for plant growth show off fish as much as
those that aren't? Might just go with artificial if I can find any that look
realistic.
As always you do a good job.
James
<James, thanks for the kind words. I've never had much success with "floating"
Java ferns; by all means try some, but I usually find it disintegrates or gets
sucked into the filter. Indian Fern (Ceratopteris cornuta) is the floating plant
of choice for aquarists who want something easy and adaptable. Gouramis love the
stuff.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PlantedTksSubWebIndex/ceratopteris.htm
Indian Fern is easy to grow, and Java fern, Anubias, and Java Moss are very
hardy indeed. I also happen to like Cryptocoryne wendtii, and consider it one of
the easiest and most reliable plants with roots. Pots of this species are
inexpensive and can be almost guaranteed to do well in any aquarium, quickly
spreading outwards over the substrate. Be careful when choosing colour
substrates. Some black sands (e.g., Tahitian Moon Sand) are too sharp for use
with burrowing fish, and even the manufacturers recommend against using them
with catfish, loaches, etc.
http://www.caribsea.com/pages/products/super_nat.html
So do check with the manufacturer prior to purchase before selecting such media.
The colour of the lights hardly matters once you have areas of light and shade
created by floating plants. Thickets of submerged vegetation (like pots of
Cryptocoryne) also make an enormous difference. Fish welcome the shade and will
adopt natural colours. Plastic plants can look very good in tanks with clean
water, but in messy tanks (e.g., with Oscars, Plecs, etc.) I find they become
"mud magnets", getting covered with silt and algae
too quickly for my tastes. In tanks with tetras, barbs, etc. and decent
filtration this isn't a problem, and a tank decorated with lots of the same
"species" of plastic plant can look extremely realistic. Bad results with
plastic plants usually follow from when people choose "one of everything" in the
shop, so there's a riot of colours and shapes. Cheers, Neale.>
Thoughts/ questions on Java Fern reproduction 1/21/07
Hi crew,
I was wondering if you guys had any information on the sexual reproduction
(NOT by rhizome division) of Java ferns. I read somewhere (not here... I can't
seem to find the site) that the black spots that seem to plague Java owners
actually are caused by the release of spores from them "going sexual."
<Mmm, yes... like terrestrial Pteridophytes... the "sori" are reproductive
structures... These ferns do display alternation of sexual/asexual
generations...>
Do you know if this is true? I ask because my java ferns are reproducing like
rodents.
<Happens... not often discussed/thought of, but a huge part of aquatic biomass
is tied up/invested in gametes (sex cells) and juvenile forms... Think of the
many organisms employing filter-feeding moda...>
Here are my tank stats: 24g, moderately planted (about 50%) Ammonia: 0, Nitrate:
0, Nitrate around 1 ppm, pH: 7.4. I don't have a test for hardness, but my
alk/hardness/buffering capacity is so high that even though I dose with CO2
there is no difference between the tank water and my well water, and the pH does
not fluctuate at night.
<Likely quite hard...>
When I got my Java ferns, I just tossed them into the tank. Some floated, most
sank. In a couple days, the "floaters" settled out. About a week after that,
they ALL started getting the dreaded black spots.
<Not dreaded... if symmetrical...>
Now, about a month later, about half of them are producing plantlets on the
leaves.
Did I do something right or did I just get lucky?
<Perhaps a bit of both>
I also have an Amazon sword that has put out 3 shoots that are producing
plantlets. So far, 4 plantlets have put out roots and have been separated from
the mother plant, and more buds are starting to open. I talked to the
owner/manager of a really good LFS in my area (the only true fish store in the
area, and they specialize in reef and planted tanks) and he'll either give me
cash or store credit for the swords... I guess I need to talk to him about the
Java ferns too.
But, I digress... Basically, I'm just looking for any information you can give
me on the sexual reproduction of Java ferns.
<Mmm, others have already done a good job, with graphics:
http://www.google.com/search?q=reproduction+in+ferns&sourceid=ie7&rls=com.microsoft:en-US&ie=utf8&oe=utf8>
I'm very interested of the biology of all the living things I keep and care for,
which include snakes, geckos, rats, a parakeet, a scorpion, a Russian hamster,
several houseplants and cacti, 2 bonsai, and my 2 planted tanks (this is a
partial list... my fiancée has threatened to call off the wedding if I bring
anything else home).
<Including him?>
Oh... as long as I've got you, I have another question... What's the best way
to deal with spot algae on plants?
<Mmm, perhaps small, more-gentle algae eaters... Otocinclus, SAE's...>
I don't have a large bioload in either tank, I've added Otos to the 24g and
Cherry shrimp to my 5g, I've reduced the photoperiod, I've added more fast
growing plants to try to starve out the algae. What else can I do? Should I use
RO or DI for water changes instead of/ in addition to well water?
Thanks in advance for your feedback.
Sean
<Mmm, see the Krib re PMDD DIY fertilizer formulation... test your water for a
deficiency syndrome that is favoring BGA... Bob Fenner>
Java Moss, amphib. sys. 3/23/06
I have been an aquarium enthusiast for nearly 40 years--both fresh and
saltwater. I can honestly say that I've probably learned more in the past
six months from your website than I did in the previous 39.5 years. I have
recently converted a 45 gallon freshwater tank to live plants. I've
upgrades my lighting to 96 watts. My question concerns Java moss.
I would like to create the effect of it growing up the back wall of the
aquarium, sort of like a garden trellis. Are there materials you would
suggest that would not effect water quality. I have read that corkboard
could be used, although it seems to me that it would crumble.
>> Corkboard will work fine, as will Styrofoam. My suggestion is to first place
the background in an empty aquarium with a half inch of water and a weak spray
bar, cover it and add strong light, Java moss will grow rapidly under these
conditions (nearly all Poison Arrow Frog keepers use it), as they are much more
similar to the way the moss grows in nature. When you have good growth on the
flat background try moving it to your tank. Submerged the moss grows more
slowly.
Good Luck, Oliver
Growing Java Fern
It has loads of black spots and died in the middle. Its on bog wood. It was a
big plant, sort of growing back what caused this?
<Not sure of the cause. Cut away the dead spots and remount it on the wood. Good
luck.>
Growing Java Fern
Java fern rotted and died, not all of it, half of it. What is the problem?
<Java Fern grows from a rhizome. This is a stem that grows along the gravel. The
fronds then grow up from the rhizome. If the rhizome is buried it will rot and
the plant will die. I grow mine on driftwood. To mount it cut slivers in the
wood, but leave them attached at one end. Then use it to "clip" the plant to the
wood. Cut away any dead rhizome before mounting it. Don>
Columbian Sharks and Java Ferns
Sorry to bother you guys again, but I have two questions I couldn't find on
your site. I have two Columbian sharks. They are both still pretty young (about
5 inches). <You'll need about 100 gallons of brackish water to keep these large
fish into adulthood.> I've noticed recently that their fins are a little torn,
the smaller shark more than the bigger one. I doesn't look at all like it could
be fin and tail rot, besides they are both really healthy. They are inseparable
and I've never seen them be violent to one another, I was wondering if they
could be doing this to themselves since they are the most aggressive fish in the
tank. <Possible> (33 gal with the two sharks, pleco, African leaf fish, leopard
leaf fish and fire eel) <The eel may be causing a ruckus at night> Don't worry
we are eventually moving the sharks to a brackish tank. <Salt will help heal as
well as start adjusting them to their adult requirements. Host of reasons for
tattered fins. Aggression, very high or low pH, ammonia, very high nitrates
etc..> Second question, we have sand as our substrate and have live plants I
think they are java ferns. The pet store told us that if the plants are
submerged directly into the sand eventually they will start emitting toxic gases
that are undetectable and will kill our fish. Because of this I put the plants
in little plastic cups filled with gravel and submerged those in the sand. <Will
not help> I was just wondering if this was necessary. I couldn't find any info
on the net. <Java Fern grows from a "stem" that grows horizontal to the
substrate. The fronds then grow up along this stem. If it is buried in *any*
substrate it will die and decay. This will result in more ammonia entering your
cycle. I know of no other "gas" that decaying Java emits. I planted mine on
driftwood. Just cut a sliver, leaving it attached to the wood. Then use this
sliver to clip the base of the fern to the wood. That will hold it in place
until the roots grab the wood. Don>
Java Fern
Dear Crew,
Thanks so much for your help. I might have a problem with my Java fern. Three of
its four leaves have a discoloration around the veins that color the leaf a
coppery-red. These leaves also have some holes in them. Also, one of these has
.25 in. "hairs" growing from the top of the leaf (is it hair algae?).
< Probably hair or beard algae.>
The pH is 8, ammonia is 0, and nitrites have just started to decrease from their
spike. Only one of the leaves is healthy and a bright green. Should I remove
these leaves?
< Many times new plants take some time to adjust to their new surroundings. So
they lose some of their old leaves and use that energy stored in the old leaves
to make new leaves that are adaptable to their new surroundings. Wait until the
old leaves are almost completely dead before removing them. Java fern doesn't
like bright light so make sure it is in the corner away from strong direct
light.>
This is a freshwater tank with two 1.5 in. bluegill and healthy pennywort. I was
also sold a plant that the people at my LFS called an Amazon sword, but I'm not
sure because I can't find any pictures of Amazon swords that look like it. It
has about 5 in long stems with leaves about 1.5 in across and 2 in long and
pointed at the end. Each stem comes individually from the clump of roots (there
is no common stem). Its healthy, but I really want to know what it is. If you
could identify this plant and help me with the
Java fern, that would be great.
< Amazon swords are a very common aquarium plant and you should have no problems
identifying it as such. To find the particular species may be very difficult
since many plants are identified by their flower structures. From what you have
described I think you do indeed have an Amazon sword plant.-Chuck>
Thanks again,
Andrew
Java fern issues
<Hi! Ananda here today for the plant questions...>
I have many java ferns in my 50 gallon tank. On the ferns, the leaves are
naturally a light green....
<Odd. My java ferns' leaves are normally a moderately dark green....>
my problem is that the tips of the leaves are turning a dark green color. I
believe it is harming the plants. But I am not sure what to do about it. Thanks
JEREMY
<Dark green, as in almost black? This could be a type of algae. Do check your
tank's nitrate and phosphate levels, as both encourage the growth of algae.
--Ananda>
Of Java Ferns and panty hose!!
Hey guys!! Terrific site....with tonnes of info....I searched for the
info. I require but have not come across any specific information on my
problems....I will greatly appreciate any info you have, and I will try and
keep my question brief as possible....
1) Is panty hose entirely safe for the aquarium??
< Panty hose made from nylon is safe as longs as all the detergents have been
removed.>
I have read in many
places to use this for such things as putting crushed coral in for calcium
carbonate addition to the tank, and many other uses...I am currently using
it to cover the intake tubes on my power filters. so to avoid sucking up any
guppy babies....is this safe?? No toxins from the elastic in panty hose??
I rinsed it first to remove any detergents etc...but still one wonders??
< I wonder. I will assume that the area you are from that the water is fairly
soft. I would get a hardness kit and check it to see if you really need to do
this. You could always put the crushed coral in the filters too.>
2) My tank is growing with Java Fern. and it is growing well....except for
the black leaves. and some holes (prob. the snails...not so
bothersome). but the black spots!! And leaves going black. not all of them
mind you. but a few. is this just old growth, or is the plant lacking
something??
< You did not mention anything about the lighting. Java fern does not like
bright light and soft water. Check the water and put the fern in a dimly lighted
area of the tank.>
I do have 2 power filters (both fo a 15 gallon tank)...the tank
is 15 gallons, plus two airstones...am I overdoing it?? Is that possible??
Am I doing more harm than good?? Removing CO2, or helping the fish with O2
?? The decisions!!!
< In hard water the co2 combines with the calcium in the water. This leaves
little co2 for plants. With the airstones it is almost a sure bet that there is
no co2 in the tank at all. You can check this with a co2 test kit.> Plus my
snails are not the best either...one
kind...conical shell is doing fine...the other live -bearing Malaysian seems
to be having their shells erode away...they go white and then almost see
through....and sometimes the snails seem almost dead...sticking out of their
shells a bit...but then they move and crawl away a few hours later....
< I suspect that you have little buffering in your water and the soft water is
dissolving the shells of your snails. The plants will also take up calcium as
well as the bacteria in the filters.>
Tank info....15 gallons, 2 power filters plus two airstones, 1 inch
gravel, lots of Java fern, lots of snails, 7 guppies (2 are male), 1 Betta,
1 Pleco, 2 spotted Corys....that's it....have treated with Melafix now and
then for fin tears in Betta and some fin problems in Guppies...(.5 are new
additions to tank).....they are doing fine. the fish that
is....mostly....also tests....pH...7.6, ammonia 0.0, Nitrate 5 mg/L, Nitrite
.1 mg/L, and Iron 0.0. These are all the test kits I currently
have.....Tank temp.. around 78 degrees F. Water changes 15% every week. with
vacuumed.
So, any ideas for improving the condition of my plants or snails??
Without hurting my fish?? I'm scared of taking the airstones away and having
things go bad. and to loose it all!! Please. I'm confused........I've been
into aquariums for 15 years plus. on and off....and am constantly
learning....I have lots of books and encyclopedias on the hobby and the
fish.....but I find you can never know it all!!! That is half the fun of
this hobby. the learning!! I love to learn knew things about this stuff...I
love the natural systems....(no burping clams thank you!!)...and hate the
panty hose!!! But what else to do???
< I would like to recommend a book to you that I you will find extremely
helpful. It is called the Baensch Atlas #1. You have been at this for a number
of years so I think it will help you understand water chemistry a little better
and let you read your plants to decide how to manage it. I would service the
filters on week and gravel vac on the other week. This way you will not remove
all of the bacteria at once.-Chuck>
Willing to learn and treading water here in Cape Breton (Nova Scotia
Canada)!!! Thanks in advance for any advice!!
Java Fern Propagation 11/03/03
Hi Guys and Gals!
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
First, let me be the n-thousandth person to congratulate you on a truly
wonderful site that has been a very valuable learning resource for me. Saved
much money and heartache by taking the time to read the valuable knowledge and
experience that you have shared with so many.
<thank you very much!>
On to the question... I have java fern growing well in one of my tanks and
it's producing "shoots" (baby plants) from the upper half of the leaves. How do
I go about harvesting those shoots so as not to damage the parent plant, so that
I can continue to grow those shoots into adult plants for use in other tanks?
What would be the best way to grow the shoots into adults?
<I just take the shoots off & stick it where I want it to grow. It won't hurt
the parent plant.>
I noted that you've mentioned it's a brackish plant, but I am having really good
success in fresh water (ph 7.4, Ammo = 0, Nitrate = 0, Nitrate = near 0 most of
the time, good high-rate of cross flow from small power heads in conjunction
with a moderate amount of aeration and nice high filtration rate (about 8x)),
with a mix of regular fluoro (peaks in red and blue spectrum) and actinic
(visible blue) lighting. The java fern is growing like a weed! And nothing (not
even the Oscars!) seems interested in eating or attacking it. :D
<It will do well in FW & light BW. Also in low light.>
Hope you can give me some hints. Cheers - Virgil StJohn.
<Hope this helps--Pufferpunk>
Java Ferns
Hello, On the website it says that Java is naturally brackish. Can it survive
a brackish system with higher levels of salt than 1.005? And if so, how much
higher do you think?
<I have had java ferns in a tank with a specific gravity of around 1.008, and
they grew fairly slowly. I actually raised the specific gravity in that tank to
1.015 for a brief period, and the java ferns didn't flinch. They didn't grow
much during that time, either.>
Secondly, a 55 gallon tank I have houses about 10 cichlids. I've always used
an air-pump, a Fluval canister filter, and an aquaclear power filter. My
first question is, can I get rid of this air-pump with a lot of plants?
<You not only can get rid of it, but you should get rid of it. The air pump will
take the carbon dioxide out of the water column and away from the plants that
need it.>
I have a decent amount of hornwort, five large Java ferns (at least 8 full
leaves), and a few less developed Java ferns.
<Very nice.>
Also, I read in a book yesterday that power filters weren't so good, because
they leave no CO2 in the water. Should I think about going without the
aquaclear, or is this bad advice?
<I've seen the same advice. I don't have any experience with canister filters. I
have a power filter on one of my planted tanks, and my plants are still growing.
If your Fluval is big enough to filter the tank by itself, you could try it solo
for awhile.>
Thanks,
Andy B
<You're welcome. --Ananda>
Re: Fwd: Java Fern
Okay, this is all kind of half remembered, but here
goes...
IIRC, Java fern grows pretty quick. the ones I had in
my small hex tank with the betta grew like weeds.
I'm not sure about rooting on bare rock, but you can
drill holes into driftwood and plant java fern in
them. It should send out runners and grow along them.
Sorry I can't help more, but I haven't done much with
FW plants in quite a while. My advice would be to seek
out some opinions and do some more online research.
<Well done Mike. Will post to WWM on the morrow. Bob F>
Java Fern
I have a tank with Mbuna cichlids. It is largely a rock scaped tank with a
crushed coral substrate. I would like to include some Java fern. I know
that Mbuna are very hard on plants, but I read recently that they will not
eat Java Fern (especially if they are given small bits of Romaine lettuce),
but will dig up any plant including Java. The article went on to say that
one could defeat the digging problem by planting the Java directly onto the
rocks or other tank ornaments, i.e., that Java does not need to be rooted in
the substrate to flourish.
<The latter is correct... the former? Some mbuna cichlids species and
individuals will chew up most any plant material>
1. Is the above relatively accurate and consistent with your experience?
(That Mbuna will not eat Java and it can grow directly on rocks or other
tank ornaments)?
2. If Java can grow without being in the substrate or soil, how does one
attach it to the rock or other object, and will the plant itself eventually
take hold of the object, like a vine does as it climbs a fence post or a
wall?
<Sort of... as this is a pteripedan (fern like those on land)... most folks
loosely tie (with thread, fish line of small strength) the principal parts of
the thallus (plant body) to submersed wood>
3. If Java is inappropriate, is there some other plant you would recommend?
<This is a good start... as are crinums, tougher cryptocoryne species, the genus
Anubias... Please see the scant (so far... you've encouraged me to write more on
Lake Tanganyika and Malawi systems) coverage on these plants posted on our
principal site: www.WetWebMedia.com>
Your help would be most appreciated. Thank you.
<Be chatting my friend. Bob Fenner>
GEOFFREY W. VEITH
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