Lyretail Anthias      5/23/18
Hi Crew,
We recently got some Lyretail Anthias for our saltwater tank. We got a large male (4”) and two small females (1.5”) from the LFS. We ordered two more females online to make a bigger group. We have the 2 groups of fish in their own quarantine tanks since they came from different sources. The two females we ordered online are pretty big (2.5”) and one of them has a spiked/pennant dorsal fin. Does that indicate the fish has started turning into a male?
<Possibly>
If so, would the process reverse if we housed that fish with our existing male?
<Likely so>
I’m a little worried about putting them together as I’ve heard males are aggressive to each other.
<I wouldn't be (overly) concerned>
Thank you,
Pegine
<Welcome, Bob Fenner>

Parasites?       12/22/16 Hi there. Worried my 2 female Ignitus Anthias have parasites? They have stringy white poop and are a bit emaciated....? <This subfamily of basses very easily suffers for lack of nutrition... Need to be fed a few times daily, or better still; have a large, robust refugium and DSB with RDP lighting associated (plumbed in with) their main tank to provide live food items. At the very least an automated feeder can be hooked up to provide nutritious and palatable pellets during the day (Hikari and Spectrum are fave brands). Are these fish parasitized? Can't tell from looking... a fecal sample could be netted out, examined under a microscope... One could lace their foods with anti-protozoal (e.g. Metronidazole) and anthelminthic (e.g. Praziquantel) medications. These ideas are gone over/archived on WWM. Write back w/ specific questions if something is not clear, complete after reading. Bob Fenner>

Re: Parasites?       12/22/16 Fish are fed twice a day with variety of Hikari and SF brands: brine, mysis, Spirulina brine, plankton, PE Calanus, caviar, marine angel, marine algae, spectrum pellets periodically, 3 colors of seaweed, all sometimes laced with Selcon, but not always. <I'd double plus the frequency here. Good food choices> Tank is a Red Sea Max 650 (so ~175 total volume, 30 refugium), display is 3 inch sand bed, <I'd add an inch here> almost 5 years old, refugium with live rock, sand and macroalgae with red LED bulb running 18 hrs/day. Glass is covered daily with countless copepods.......Male Ignitus is very round and healthy looking, only the 2 females look poorly. <Mmm; maybe they're being "run ragged"... I'd add two more to split up the aggression here> Other inhabitants: yellow tang, regal blue tang, blue eyed Cardinal, fox face, Royal gramma, dragon goby, yellow watchman goby, mated spawning percula clown pair, green mandarin goby. I can try increasing to 3 or 4 daily feelings and using the Selcon soak daily instead of only sometimes. <Ah yes; good> I believe I do have some Metronidazole. Just wanted to be sure that was ok to use in display with all other fish, live rock, inverts, coral, etc. <Mmm; am NOT a fan of such "shotgun" approaches. I myself would NOT be treating here> I do have a quarantine set up and running at all times just in case if I need to move them...Thanks. <Thank you again for writing so lucidly. Bob Fenner> Re: Parasites?      12/23/16 10-4 got it. Thanks a ton Bob <Welcome Julie; and please keep us informed. BobF> Re: Parasites?      12/23/16 Will do, although I thought of one more thing, regarding adding 2 more Anthias, I'm wary of doing that as this male seems pretty aggressive. <Yes; the larger part of why I suggested a higher female to the one male ratio. Your 175 should be large enough> I had a single one when I added the 3 (it was leftover from a batch of 5 very small juveniles that did not survive) and within 24 hours he bullied that single one to jumping out of the tank and he was dead when I got home. And this was months ago even before they were "sexed" really, they were only about an inch and a half when I got them. So I'm concerned if he bullied that settled one when he was a new addition to the tank, how much more so would he bully new additions now that the tank is "his" territory.....I may try increasing the feeding and using the Selcon every day first for a couple months to see if that helps before adding more. <Your concern is valid. I would (use two nets! Maybe a friend with another one!) net out the male and hold him in a plastic floating colander (spag. strainer) for a day or two, allowing the new females to settle in. Bob Fenner> Re: Parasites?      12/23/16 Great idea. Thanks! <Welcome Jules. B> Re: Parasites? Anthias; stocking f'       1/2/17 Well sad news, came back from a week long vacation today and one of the females is gone. Can't find her on the floor anywhere so she must have died. <Yes... and dissolved, been eaten with this much time gone by> And being so small, the clean up crew would have taken care of her overnight easily. :( With us being away for a week I wasn't able to get any additional ones before we left but I will get them now. How many total should I have? <The more (females) the merrier, better... I'd get five, seven...> So we have the one male, one female, should I get 3 or 4 more? I suppose I should get more than I need in case 1 or 2 don't survive. <Yes> Thanks <Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Color Morphs of Lyretail Anthias     3/18/14
Good afternoon crew!
<Li'l Bri>
I am hoping to add a group of lyretail Anthias to my 150 gallon aquarium (told myself I'd never get a tank bigger than 10 gallons. That turned into 20. Then 55. Now 125... I've been eating Top Ramen to recover from the expense! Haha.
<Heeee! You don't need that couch!>
So worth it though!) I've been doing extensive research and have noticed that Anthias collected from different locations have different color morphs. I'm specifically interested in the difference between specimens collected from Africa/Kenya and those from the Maldives.
<Ah, Pseudanthias squamipinnis likely>
What is the color difference between males from these two places?
<Ones closer to the Red Sea are more salmon colored, with brighter side spots>
Also, are females from these sites a vibrant apricot orange or more of a dull, muddy orange?
<Ones toward the P.I. are more bright orange>
Finally, are the specimens from one of these places generally healthier than those from the other?
<Very good question. My fave are the ones from further into the Indian Ocean and Red Sea; but more has to do w/ handling and time in shipment than source location in terms of hardiness>
Thank you very much for your thoughts,
"Little Bri" (coined by Bob)
<Cheers, BobF>
Re: Color Morphs of Lyretail Anthias     3/18/14
Yep. Time to Craigslist the furniture… I feel like this is going to be very obvious once you tell me, but what does P.I. mean?
<Philippines Islands>
Is it the Pacific Islands? So your favorites would come from the Maldives then?
<Mmm, really depends on the quality at hand; secondarily the price>
Sorry for all the confusion, but everywhere I look online and in the LFS seems to have the same name for fish of very different coloration! The LFS says they can also get some from Fiji. Would these be the most vibrant orange?
Thanks again!
<The ones from FJ are fine. BobF>
RE: Color Morphs of Lyretail Anthias     3/18/14
Thank you!
<Certainly welcome. B>

Stocking question    12/27/13
Hello wwm crew,
I currently have a question regarding stocking of Anthias.
<Ok>
I currently have a 120 reef. Amm : 0 nitrite: 0 nitrate: 0.75ppm. Corals include everything from Zoas to Acros. I also have a rbta, gbta, and maxima clam.
I am a heavy stocker, but do deeply care about my fish. Let me first say that before giving my current fish list. I also feed multiple foods multiple times a day and do a 30gal change weekly.
I currently have stocked:
8 dispar Anthias
2 snow onyx clowns (I believe they are occ x perc)
2 potters angels (pair)
<Neat!>
1 flame angel
1 coral beauty angel
1 eibli angel
1 Chromis (yes he is the only one and will remain the only one as he prefers to shoal with the Anthias and kill all other Chromis attempts)
1 mimic tang
1 lieutenant tang
(The tangs do get switched out when they start to look cramped)
1 twin spot goby
1 black ember blenny
1 mandarin (he also eats Mysis)
1 purple pseudo
1 Cebu Pylei wrasse
Everyone is doing very well, with absolutely 0 aggression. 
I would like to add 3-5 purple queen Anthias. I am wondering if they would mix well with my dispar?
<I think you should do fine with this addition. Do realize that the Purple Queen is a bit touchy; especially when moved>
Thank you,
Kim
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Bartlett's Anthias/compatibility    7/23/13
Hello, I've been a long time reader but this is my first time writing. My 55g
<Small for Pseudanthias spp.>
 is 2 and half years running, though Hurricane Isaac wiped out all of my livestock and many corals last fall. I've been slowly letting it settle back down and become fully stable once more. Ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, phosphates have been at zero, though I do grow algae on the grass and have had hair algae off and on since the tank's crash. I have approximately 80#
of Fiji and Florida LR and a shallow 2 inch) sand bed. My LR critter population is teeming (worms, breeding Mysis shrimp, Copepods/arthropods, sponges, snail eggs, tiny brittle stars, etc). I also have thriving Zoa colonies, mushrooms, a huge finger leather
<Needs to be kept trimmed here>
which survived the storm, and other soft corals and LPS and a few inverts (3 peppermint shrimp, a Louisiana native shrimp ( I apologize for not knowing the exact species...husband brought him home from fishing on Lake Pontchatrain), a fighting conch, a few snails, couple of hermits, an emerald crab,
<Watch this; predatory>
and plan to add 2 skunk cleaner shrimp).
Current inhabitants: 1 starry blenny (about 7 months), a coral beauty (3inches, approx 3 months; I know it's a risk with the corals but one I am willing to take), 2 teeny (barely an inch, though one has grown slightly bigger and appears to be taking the female role)
<See/saw this lack of pronoun in your next email... Premnas; you're done stocking here>
 that I added 2 weeks ago. Knowing these last two will become meaner with age, I wanted to go ahead with my last fish before they grew too much. I added a Bartlett's Anthias
<A social species; as most Anthiines... doesn't live solitarily>
yesterday. He's about 2 inches, alert, feeding well, and seems to have adjusted well. I've combed wet web media's FAQ on Anthias/fancy bass, reading all entries, but I am having trouble finding a direct answer: With this mix, should I add another Bartlett's?
<You don't have room here. I'd remove the one ahead of the Maroons growing, likely killing it>
 I am unclear if having another if its kind is necessary for the fish to thrive or if this will simply lead to aggression.
I am aware they are frequent feeders; is there too much competition in here for the Anthias to feed well?
<Yes>
I am hoping that aggression will not be too bad as the tiny clowns will grow up with the Anthias, and the coral beauty is not much of a bully.
Thank you for your hard work and wonderful site! I'd like to think I've learned much.
<Glad to do what we do... informing, inspiring others. Again, I'd just stick fish-wise with what you have here. Bob Fenner>
Bartlett's Anthias follow-up    7/23/13
I realized accidentally left out that the tiny clowns are maroons...this is why I am wondering if the Anthias may have trouble.
<Ah yes. Thank you. B>
Thank you again!

Anthias; stkg./sel., comp.      5/29/13
Dear Wet Web Media,
    I have desperately tried to answer this question through hours of reading, but I must give up and ask as there is no answer. I have a Pseudanthias hypselosoma
<"A"? This is a highly social species; lives in groups in the wild.
Shouldn't be kept solitarily>
a in my 50 gallon tank
<Needs more room>
 that I am ready to put into my new 265 gallon. I had hoped to find some more P. hypselosoma to add with her,
<Ah, good>
 but they seem to be hard to find right now. I realize that the common opinion is to not mix different species of Anthias, but I thought in a tank this large maybe it could be done.
<Yes, it can be and P. hypselosoma is found in mixed species shoals>
Assuming it can (if not you can stop me here), how would you suggest doing this? Add the other species as a group and down the road add more P. hypselosoma?
Add one fish of the different species, and add the rest of both schools at the same time? Is there another method?
<Any of these will work... I'd likely choose the more common P. squamipinnis to go/get along here>
So, assuming I know how to add the next species, are there any species to avoid because of obvious personality problems?
<That and other aspects of suitability>
I'd rather avoid pugnacious types, however, I realize many are hardier. I'm starting to think it is hit or miss with most and just try my best.
<Not hit or miss... use other people's experience as a guide>
If I had a choice, I'd do the Pseudanthias pleurotaenia (although I'm afraid of the personality here) or the Pseudanthias pascalus (too difficult?).
<Yes and yes>
 Finally, is there any reason I can't add Anthias to a new tank as long as they are fed?
<Not from what is stated, no>
Thanks!
Alyssa
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Anthias - compatibility and tank introduction     3/5/13
Hi WWM,
<Aditya>
What I have: a 500g FOWLR with some soft corals that has been running for a year and a half. Started off with some of the hardier fish i.e.: Damsels and Clowns. After a year and a half this is my current stock list: 6 Chromis, 1 Bicolor Angel, 1 Flame Angel, 2 Firefish, 1 Long Horned Cowfish,
<Will grow quite large here in time>
2 Blue Damsels, 2 Four Stripe Damsels, 2 Yellow Tangs, 2 Regal tangs, 2 Ocellaris, 1 Six Line Wrasse, 2 Magenta Dottybacks = 26 fish in all (all within 2-4 inches) Now all these fish seem to be getting along quite well but for the occasional squabble.. for the most part there seems to be enough space to keep them all happy. However I am noticing that my four stripe damsel is getting more and more territorial these days and the damsels get aggressive and chase each other once in a while.
<Yes; tis their nature, particularly Dascyllus as you've noted>
  The Dottybacks (porphyreus) were added last (just a week ago) and I've already seen one go head on with the 6 Line Wrasse, then they seem cool with each other again.
<Sixline's are akin to Jack Russell breed dogs... Big fishes in little fish's bodies>
Now where I live Anthias are rare. For the first time i managed to get hold of 10 lyretail Anthias <2inch long and have them in QT. They are happy and eating just about anything i give them (rotifers, Mysis, brine, flakes, NLS, etc).
<Feed them often; several times per day... be on the lookout for excessive bullying; move the alpha fish/es to the main system if so>
 My QT then developed a crack and I had to move them to the fuge They seems to like it here with all the rock and moving water. I've always loved this fish but never had the opportunity to get them until now. Now that i have them i am terrified of having them slaughtered in the DT... in your experience do you think the damsels / Dottybacks pose a serious treat?
would the grouping of the Anthias deter bullying?
<Mmm, the size/volume of your tank, the swiftness and smarts of the Anthias should hold them in good stead. You've done well by isolating the new fish, letting them rest up, grow acclimated to the main system water. I doubt you will have troubles between them and the established stock>
I've had the Anthias in the QT/fuge for 5 days now. It is a very small space in comparison to the DT. When can I move them to the DT?
<Now>
Should I remove the 4 Stripe or the Dottybacks before I move them in?
<I wouldn't try, no>
 Catching anything in my DT is going to be a huge challenge. Or do you think they may all just get along given the space in the tank?
<Highly likely so; yes>
I almost immediately regretted adding the damsels and the Dottybacks when I got them, but at the time figured tank size would take care of any problems.
Thanks for taking the time to read this!
Best
Aditya
<And you, Bob Fenner>
Re: Anthias - compatibility and tank introduction
Bob,
<Ad>
Thanks so much for the response, wasn't expecting something so quick!
I've been dying to get them in the DT, they do look lovely. As of now they all get along with each other, no aggression between the Anthias. .
<Thus far; will/do "bicker" in time... problematical when/where crowded>
The only thing that concerns me is feeding. In my fuge I am able to drop food right above them and wait as they come and grab it, do you think they will notice/get to the food in a 500g DT with a bunch of other aggressive eaters?
<Yes; consistency... where, when foods are placed... what you do ahead of offering becomes imprinted on all>
 In the fuge a couple will see the food and then trigger a feeding frenzy with the others.
On another note how many fish (<=3 in community fish) do you suppose I could eventually stock in my tank moving forward?
<Many choices... peruse what is archived on WWM for FOWLRs, large systems, the compatibility FAQs for what you've already stocked.>
 I always wanted a high tank and built mine to be 6(L) X 4 (H) X 3(W). Its a pain to clean sometimes but has the aspect ratio of a large screen TV which is nice.
<I imagine>
Thanks again
<Welcome. BobF>
Aditya
Re: Anthias - compatibility and tank introduction     3/8/13
Bob,
<Aditya>
Just wanted to close the loop on this and let you know what happened. I released all 10 Anthias in the DT and they are all doing extremely well.
Eating like pigs. The damsels go at them once in a while but they seem to be swimming in the top half of the tank most of the time in front of the wave makers and avoid the damsels in the lower sections.
<Ah yes>
Thank you
Aditya
<And you for this follow-up. BobF>

Re: Seastar Issue, and now comp., sel. of P. squamipinnis    8/20/20
Bob,
<Christine>
Thank you for your response to my Seastar issues.  I have decided that two Fromia milleporella stars will be the extent of my future Seastar purchases, I am selling my conch, and working double time in building up the pods in my refugium. 
<Good>
As I may have mentioned, I currently have a 6 foot 125 gallon display with 40 gallon refugium and 40 gallon sump.  I have 4 clowns, an indigo dotty back and a run of the mill cleaner wrasse.  My intention is to add 1 male lyretail Anthias and two females, which I believe you indicated in your previous response would be ok for my size tank. 
<These should be fine here>
A few questions have been on my mind, firstly are two females and one male going to be enough to distribute any aggression, or is that not a huge concern with Anthias? 
<Not problematical w/ this species (Pseudanthias squamipinnis>
Are Anthias a dithering fish?
<Mmm, can be>
 Fosters and Smith offer two types of lyretail Anthias, one they simply refer to as lyretail Anthias and another they refer to as Maldives Lyretails. 
<Same (widely distributed) species:
http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&aq=0&oq=maldives+lyreta&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1T4GZAB_enUS459US459&q=maldives+lyretail+anthias&gs_upl=0l0l0l48020858lllllllllll0&aqi=g4&pbx=1 >
The only difference that I notice, aside from price,  is that the Maldives male appears orange, whereas the "generic" lyretail male appears more red. 
<On close examination, this species shows more/less such differences here/there>
(I would prefer the red incidentally) and wonder if my perception is accurate.
<It is>
  I am also curious now as to whether the females from either region will be the same vibrant yellow color, or if their color varies from region to region as well. 
<It varies>
Is there anything not commonly read about that would help me further with Anthias?  Any skeletons in their closets?
<Not as far as I'm aware, and I've seen this species, collected it for the trade widely>
Also,  I do like the look of a small school of blue green Chromis and was wondering if adding one in the future would be an option for me and if so, how many?
<Perhaps five>
  My only concern is that each time I have attempted this, they usually fight among themselves until there is only one survivor, I hate to see this and have read that it is common.
<It is>
 However I have not yet attempted a school in this size aquarium, I know that more Chromis will spread the aggression out, but am not sure if I have a big enough system, or enough room left, to hold the size school required.
<I give you good odds here>
 I have seen beautiful blue reef Chromis, and was wondering if anyone has had better luck with these, or do they tend to pick each other off too? 
<About the same>
I understand that I may just be better off stopping after the Anthias. 
Incidentally, I have been tossing around the idea of moving my black ocellaris into a separate tank altogether to see if they will mate. 
<Very common... in any size volume; easier to breed, raise young where in smaller, isolated settings>
One is clearly a very dominant female who has paired up with a little male.
Thank you as always for your advice!
Chris K
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Blue Face Angel in a reef tank, comp.       8/6/12
Hi Friends,
Thanks for the whole lot of FAQs on the hobby !!
<Welcome>
I have a not so quick question.
I had initially planned a SPS tank of 4’x4’x2’ but due to some design mistakes I had to rethink to make it Softy and some Zoanthid tank. I am in the middle of stocking the tank.
Some details regarding the tank
•       Circulation is by way of 2 EcoTech Vortech MP40W ES. Set in Async Mode.
<I'd leave these on continuously... in opposite corners, near the surface, spin the water in a gyre>
•       Lighting is using 4x Mazarra
•       Skimming is done using a Deltec TS 1060 inside the aquarium itself.
•       Filtration is by a Fluval G6 canister [will be no media. Just lots of Live Rock rubble as a substitute for a Pods refuge
<The discharge of this vertical, in the direction of the gyre>
•       Using 4x 11oz Chemipure Elite rotated every alternate month.
•       Around 100 Pounds live rock [Tonga branch type] in display and around 20 odd pounds in the canister.
•       4” DSB using CaribSea Fiji Pink fine aragonite.
•       Water change every month - 100liters.
Fish and Inverts
•       One yellow tail Anthias
<Social species... I'd add more>
•       Blue Tang
•       Yellow Tang x 3
•       Percula clown [pair]
•       Maroon clown [pair]
•       Blue Face Angel [I know this can be a turning point]
•       Skunk cleaner shrimp x 3
•       Peppermint shrimp x 2
•       Assorted 20 odd snails [mostly turbo]
•       Would a sea cucumber get torn off by the Angel?
<Might be; but if a small species, likely ignored>
Can I add the following without crowding?
1.      Psychedelic Mandarin [pair]
<Hard to keep fed here. See WWM re>
2.      Orchid Dottyback
3.      Royal Gamma
<2, 3 fight, but in this size, shape system likely fine>
4.      Some kind of Goby [please could you suggest any?]
<See the groups on WWM... Stocking/Selection FAQs>
5.      Wrasse - A pack of three?
6.      Any dither fish feasible?
<Ditto re the above 5, 6>
I need to decide quickly since I don't want the angel to become the big bossy and then add further fishes to upset the balance.
<It is the alpha animal here and will be>
Corals
•       Star Polyps
•       Small cluster of Zoanthid
•       Handful of Mushrooms including one giant mushroom of 4” diameter.
•       Pulsing Xenia
•       Toadstool Leather 6” diameter
•       Plate Coral
•       Unidentified coral similar to Moon coral but flat oriented instead of dome shaped.
•       Clam
•       Green Bubble tip Anemone [hosted by Maroon pair].
•       Montipora [flat table type structure] x 2
Any corals you would suggest that stand a good chance with the Blue Face Angel? Or is it just impossible?
<Just have to try, see... not most Acroporids>
I always wanted a Blue Face Angel and decided to take the risk with a 4"-5" specimen I saw at the LFS. It was quick to feed when I checked there and was alert and no body damage was seen as well. Since I know big Angels can pick on BTAs, I wanted some protection there and got 2 Maroon clowns [3"-4" and ~1.5"].
The bigger clown went straight for the BTA.  Initially the smaller Maroon Clown was not allowed even near the BTA but over last 2 days, he can be as close as 2"-4" nearby.
Does that mean I have a pair now?
<Likely so. Bob Fenner>
Re: Blue Face Angel in a reef tank, now more re aiming in-tank pumps, Anthiine stkg.      8/6/12
Hi Bob.
Thanks for the prompt response as usual :)
You suggested I leave the Vortechs running in sync mode facing each other.
<Mmm, no, not facing each other... but "shooting" along the side, placed near the top... pushing water in a clock or counter-clockwise fashion>
This is not possible because the tank is designed for viewing on 3 sides and top [rimless and low profile]
That is why I put the pumps on opposing mode in one side each to try and create a horizontal gyre [or similar]
Any way to improve this?
<Add another couple pumps>
The discharge from the canister [pod fuge] is just close to one of the Vortech. Should serve the purpose yes?
<Yes; if aimed in the same general direction>
Regarding the fish suggestion, I had initially added 7 of them. Dwindled to just the remaining one within 2-3 days.
Should I add more of them? How many if yes?
<I'd add more Pseudanthias... small (female or sexually undifferentiated), but healthy>
The Maroon Clowns have indeed become a pair as both of them now nest in the BTA. She does push him around a bit but I am guessing since he is allowed inside the BTA, the pair is made?
<Very likely so>
Cheers
Ranjith
<And you, B>

Lyretail Female gulping air, chasing bubbles 8/24/11
Hi WWM Crew,
<Laura/Dez>
Hope all is well with everyone there.
<Ah, yes. Thank you>
I have an 85 gallon very established reef tank with a tied in refugium.
My livestock are 1 Midas Blenny, 1 Male Bartlett Anthias, 1 Female Lyretail Anthias, and One Male Lyretail Anthias.
<Mmm, want to mention re the shoaling behavior by species of most Anthiines>
I also have 1 Candy Basslet and two Yellow Watchman Gobies. My tank parameters are: KH:9, Calcium: 440, Nitrates: 0, Phosphates: 0, Magnesium: 1400, Temp: 77/78 F.
About 2 weeks ago my Female Lyretail Anthias started hanging out in the upper right corner of the tank.
<See my above related comment>
She is continually chasing bubbles, gulping air from the surface, making her own bubbles, and chasing them like mad.
She appears to be eating well, and there is no aggression from any other fish towards her. She looks healthy - no torn fins, spots, signs of any outward disease. Her behavior is puzzling, to say the least and stressful to watch. I am not sure if she is distressed in any way or playing some bizarre game with herself and the bubbles.
<Is a "displacement behavior" set... taking the place of what this fish would other be doing (in the wild)... Circling about here and there w/ her own kind more or less>
Do you have any idea of what might be the issue here and what can possibly be done about it?
<More of the same species, or trading this one fish in...>
My other Anthias are fine and not exhibiting this behavior in the least.
Thanks in advance,
Laura Garmizo
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>
Re: Lyretail Female gulping air, chasing bubbles 8/24/11
Hi Bob,
<L/D>
Thank you for the reply.
<W.>
Given my tank parameters, current stocking, if I did "more of the same" in terms of adding more Anthias, how many more of each (Bartlett/Lyretail) would you suggest?
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anthiselfaqs.htm
I am either going to have to go this route or take the three Anthias I have out (two Lyretail - male and female, one male Bartlett)
and abandon the idea of Anthias and go with another species completely.
<I do agree w/ your plan/direction>
Curious to hear your thoughts.
<Do write back after reading if you/I are not clear, complete in them.
BobF>
Laura

Anthias and Wrasse harems   3/19/11
Hi!
<Hello Dustin!>
I currently have 4 Bartlett's Anthias in a 29 gallon QT tank.
<Mmm, need more room by this by far... Will be both psychologically and socially, let's combine the two terms, psychosocially too cramped in a very short while>
They have been
there for a week and all seem to still be females. For the first couple days all of them were eating and swimming around. Now one is hiding behind the powerhead
<Oh, already. See, I did state "in a very short while">
in the tank and not eating and another has a pretty beaten up tail fin,
<Ditto>
but is still swimming around and eating. My assumption here is that there is some jostling for dominance going on,
<In part, yes>
but I don't want it to be at the expense of a couple of them dying.
<Which they will if not moved>
What can be done to help this situation?
<Umm>
Do they need to be partitioned or separated in some way?
<Not in this volume, no>
The Anthias are going into my 210 gallon upon completion in QT.
<Anthiines are one of my "generally don't quarantine" groups/families of fishes... They suffer too much from the delay, compared with simple dip/bathing and expedited placement in main/displays. Is this clear to you?
Like most Gobioids, Blennioids... much more of the time these fishes "die mysteriously", jump out, starve, beat each other up... I'd place them in the larger system, stat.!>
This carries over into the harem of Flame Wrasses I just purchased them today and put them into a different 29 gallon QT tank.
<These two I'd dip (pH adjusted freshwater... detailed on WWM:
http://wetwebmedia.com/dips_baths.htm
and the linked files above)>
The harem consists of 1 male and 3 females. I want to make sure I don't run into the same problems
I am currently having with the Anthias.
<Similar, yes... Move these Jordan's Cirrhilabrus>
The only decor in either tank is a few PVC pipes, a heater, a powerhead, and an air stone.
Thank you in advance for your assistance!!
Dustin
<Certainly welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: Anthias and Wrasse harems-- 03/19/11
Thank you for your help. I figured you would say to move them over, I just needed you to push me over the edge to do it. I really don't like not quarantining anything.
<Ahh; is at least a two-sided saber>
I think going forward I will have a 75 gallon quarantine tank when introducing groups/harems so that I can
quarantine (not for the 210, but when I upgrade). Would this be sufficient or should I not quarantine in any size tank really?
<... not certain species...>
Thanks again,
Dustin
<Another welcome. BobF>
Re: Anthias and Wrasse harems   3/21/11
Sorry to bother you again. I switched all the Anthias and wrasses over to my display tank. Unfortunately the male died due getting caught in the net by his mouth.
<Ahh>
It took a few minutes to get the net out of his mouth because they have some wicked teeth. He died within 15 minutes after the stressful issue. All the other fish are doing quite well and eating already. Some already taking NLS!
<Ah, good>
The male is being replaced by the company I purchased from because they had a 7 day guarantee. My question is the longest I can wait (I know the sooner the better) to put a male into the tank without a female switching???
<Usually a few weeks>
The reason being that the company doesn't have any males in at the moment and I don't want to have one sent to me if it is too late.
I read on your site that it can happen in 2 weeks, but I assume that once it gets too far along it will cause problems and don't know how long that is.
I can't thank you enough,
Dustin
<BobF>

Anthias Stocking 1/28/11
Good Evening
<Good morning Eric.>
Not sure if you remember everyone that emails but I was the person trying to mix the skunk clown with the ocellaris.
<I recall that query.>
Needless to say the ocellaris would continue to harass the skunk so I decided to move it to another tank. I am now looking to add the final peice <piece> to the tank and was considering a school of Bartlett's Anthias. I currently have a 90 gallon with the following fish load; Convict Tang, Potters Angel, Yellow assesor <Assessor>, Black Stripe Blenny, and my skunk clown. Do you think adding 5 Bartlett's would be over kill?
Looking for your opinion.
<In smaller systems, Bartlett's Anthias do better kept alone with their own species. In your system,
yes, adding five Bartlett's would be overkill/overstocking.>
Thanks,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Eric

Getting Community Tank (including Anthias) On Spectrum Pellets/Feeding/Stocking/Anthias Compatibility 1/13/11
Dear WWM,
<Hello Laura>
Hope all is well on your end.
<Is good.>
I have a well established 85 gallon reef tank. I have a pair of Ocellaris clowns, a pair of Yellow Watchman Gobies, a Midas Blenny, a trio of Bartlett's Anthias (one male, two females), and a pair of Lyretail Anthias
(male and female), and one Yellow Clown Goby.
<Please cap pronouns (names of fish, etc.) in future queries, saves me time if I don't have to do it.>
My question is actually two fold. Firstly, I have been feeding this tank a frozen food mix called Rogger's Food in the morning that is universally consumed by all. Then, I do a small midday feeding of Spectrum pellets, as well as a small evening feeding of Spectrum pellets. Everyone BUT the female Lyretail, one of the female Bartlett's Anthias, and the Yellow Clown Goby eats them.
I have an upcoming vacation and very much want to get everyone on the Spectrum pellets. The three fish who do not eat them do not look as colorful or fat as the fish that consume them. It is frustrating to see three Anthias eat voraciously eat pellets, and two hold back, as well as the clown goby. How do I get these last three holdouts onto Spectrum? My tank manager is encouraging me to use a "tough love" approach and nix the frozen a.m. feeding. He feels the fish are getting a food source they prefer, and as
long as that happens, pellets won't be accepted. I welcome your advice.
<One of the problems you face is that Anthias in nature, are mid water feeders feeding on plankton. There is not much time for them to get at the food before it falls to the bottom.
Because of this, Anthias should be fed small amounts several times per day and there is no guarantee that all Anthias will accept pellets. Your other problem is tank size, much too small for the Lyretail Anthias, a minimum of a 125 gallon tank is recommended.
Mixing Anthias species in small systems just adds stress and can create the behavior that you are seeing. Your tank is overstocked to begin with and finding a new home for the Lyretails would be beneficial to your system.>
I have done enough research on New Life Spectrum to know that I want it universally accepted and to be a very large part of my fishes diet. And, I am seeing the difference in my own tank between the fish that eat it and don't eat it.
<Is due in part to their feeding habits and territorial issues also come into play as you are now witnessing. I use the product myself and can attest to it's quality.>
Second part of my question...one of the female Bartlett's Anthias of the trio is ostracized. She hides in the back of the tank behind a Favia coral.
She only comes out to eat the frozen food - she is one of the Anthias who does not eat pellets. The other two Bartlett's (male and female) seem to have formed a pair and don't accept her. When she tries to come out, they bully her back behind her coral. It is difficult to watch. Here, my tank manager says "nature is brutal" and that she is either going to break in to the group and fight for a place or not survive, with very little we can do about it.
<Nonsense, environmental issues abound here. Not enough room for everyone to be happy.>
The Bartlett's have been in the tank about three months. In the beginning, she was out more, but over time, has become very reclusive.
Any advice is appreciated.
<Read here and related FAQ's/articles found in the header.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anthiina.htm>
Very best,
<And to you as well. James (Salty Dog)>
Laura Garmizo

R3: Bartlett's Anthias'¦Think/Ponder Before Adding -- 10/11/10
Hi Eric,
<<Hey Laura>>
All Anthias are in the tank now, all are eating and swimming about, exploring.
<<Very good>>
They seem to call an upper left area by one of my corals "home", but are, for sure, beginning to venture out a bit.
<<Considering the size of you display, they will likely 'occupy' the majority of the open water above the reef structure>>
Clowns seem well behaved, and the only time they leave their area is for feedings.
<<So good so far, eh>>
I am trying to feed a bit more so that everyone sees that there is enough food to go around to curb any potential aggression.
<<Excellent... Providing sufficient food/feedings is a major factor toward limiting agonistic tendencies, in my experience/opinion>>
As per your advice, I am watching the clowns very carefully.
<<Good to know>>
My little Yellow Clown Goby, who resides right near the Anthias group does have a nipped tail today, but is out, eating, and acting normal. I assume that was one of the Anthias trying to establish territory.
<<Mmm, maybe'¦>>
She has never had anything "nipped" before. Again, am upping the frequency of my feedings to satisfy the Anthias and curb aggression.
<<Am sure it is appreciated by/beneficial to all your fishes/tank inhabitants>>
I am crossing my fingers!
<<Me too!>>
Feel things are going as well as could be expected, at this point.
<<Agreed>>
Again, your concern about my clowns is my major concern right now.
Very best, and thanks!
Laura
<<Enjoy the Anthiines! Eric Russell>>

Bartlett's Anthias'¦Think/Ponder Before Adding -- 10/07/10
Dear WWM,
<<Hiya Laura>>
Hope all is well today at WWM.
<<Is a beautiful day here in South Carolina>>
I have a very established (3 yrs old) 85 gallon reef aquarium with refugium and the following inhabitants: A pair of black and white ocellaris clowns, one pair of candy basslets, one pair of yellow watchman gobies, a midas blenny, and a yellow clown goby. Despite the beauty and great personalities of these fish, there was a lack of fluid swimming movement in the tank that I felt was missing.
<<Mmm, indeed--lots of watching and waiting'¦>>
After researching appropriate fish, I added one male Bartlett's Anthias to the tank.
<<A haremic species--best kept in groups (given the proper environment/space) for long-term success>>
The beauty of this fish swimming in the tank made my reef come alive,
<<They (and most all Anthiines) are spectacular fish>>
and now I am a bit sorry I did not add Bartlett females to make more of a display.
<<Yup--the social interactions of these fish, aside from being necessary to their well-being, are a joy to observe>>
Would this still be possible, or am I asking for trouble?
<<Most anyone will tell you it is better to add the females before the male, when possible. But based on my experience with this particular species of Anthiine, I think you can add a small group of females here. Though hardly a 'gentle' fish re conspecifics, the Bartlett's is one of the 'more gentle Anthiines' in this aspect of their behavior>>
If it could be done, how many would I be best to add?
<<Even though these fish are comparatively small, like all in the genus, they do need more space for their continued well-being than many hobbyists realize. I consider your tank size to be marginal for keeping these fish, but considering your current stocking density, and if you haven't 'filled it up with rock,' I think the addition of three females with the male you have is doable. But'¦ I do have a concern re your clowns'¦ Even in large aquariums (hundreds of gallons) these fish do not prosper if at all harassed. They often jump from the tank if chased--or if not, simply succumb to stress. Before adding these fish, you need to assess your willingness to remove any antagonistic tankmates that arise>>
Let me know your thoughts on this.
<<As just stated... Do also consider the need for multiple (2+) feedings per day>>
I have heard that it is better to have one thriving, healthy, long lived Anthias in the tank than a harem that will "self destruct."
<<Can't say I have ever seen a 'thriving, healthy, long lived' SINGLE Anthiine specimen. I have seen folks keep single specimens, but'¦ These fish are 'wired' to be in a group with others of their own kind. The problems that arise come from hobbyists not providing/not being able to provide the necessary environment parameters--with the differing species differing in their ease to provide such. A 'mixed reef' system where the Anthias are added as an afterthought really isn't the best home for these fish. It is my opinion that to be truly successful with Anthiines, the system needs to be 'designed around' these fish. That said, the Bartlett's Anthias is one of the more forgiving species. If they are given a chance to acclimate/settle in without being harassed at all, and are fed a varied diet multiple times per day (I would definitely add New Life Spectrum 1mm pellets to the menu), they can provide you much enjoyment here>>
Would love your thoughts.
<<Hope you did/do>>
Thanks in advance,
Laura Garmizo
<<Is a pleasure to share'¦ Eric Russell>>
Re: Bartlett's Anthias'¦Think/Ponder Before Adding -- 10/08/10
Hi Eric,
<<Hey Laura>>
Thank you so much for your prompt and wise advice.
<<Ah, am glad you think such--quite welcome>>
I would like to try to add the three female Bartlett's Anthias you suggested here.
<<Thought you might>>
The male was added only yesterday, so I can act quickly to minimize the situation of the male going in first.
<<Okay'¦ Though not so much a problem with this particular species, in my experience>>
I do feed twice daily.
<<Excellent'¦ I am a HUGE proponent for feeding one's fishes very well--and feel many 'fishy issues;' both physiological and psychological/social, are brought on by insufficient feedings and nutrition>>
My morning feeding is a frozen food called Rogger's food, which is a mixed seafood and Spirulina blend, fortified with garlic and Selcon. The evening feeding is a mix of 1 mm and .5 mm New Life Spectrum Thera-A pellets.
<<I've not used the Rogger's product, but can vouch for the palatability and quality of the Spectrum foods. But even with as good a food source as this, I prefer a bit more variety offered. Foodstuffs like frozen Mysis, Glass Worms, Blood worms, Daphnia, and Krill and Plankton--in addition to what you have listed (my wife tells me my fish eat better than we do [grin]>>
My clowns have shown some aggression issues toward the gobies in the tank,
<<Not surprising (the only fish to ever draw blood from me while working in a tank, was a Clownfish)'¦>>
who, in turn, established territories in other areas and basically "avoid" them, which has worked well for these fish.
<<This won't work with the Anthiines (your system is just too small)>>
I have not seen my clowns show any aggression toward my Midas Blenny or Candy Basslets, the only fish that really "swim" in the tank. It seems the Yellow Watchman's and the Clown Goby are much more apt to get a rise out of the clowns. However, I would keep a close eye on this situation regarding the Bartlett's Anthias group.
<<I do suspect the Clownfish will 'have to go'>>
At any rate, provided you feel I have a fair chance at success with the plan,
<<Remove anything that harasses the Bartlett's, and I give you a 'more than fair chance' here>>
I think the beauty and grace these fish would add to my reef would be well worth it if all works out, which I am hoping is the case.
<<Time will tell>>
I was awed by the addition of one Bartlett's Anthias, so this grouping would be spectacular.
<<Indeed>>
Thank you so much, Eric.
Laura Garmizo
<<Happy to share, Laura--please do keep me apprised of your progress with the Anthiines. Eric Russell>>
R2: Bartlett's Anthias'¦Think/Ponder Before Adding -- 10/09/10
Hi Eric,
<<Hello Laura>>
Just an update on the "lone" male Bartlett's Anthias...he is eating everything I put into the tank - Spirulina flakes, Spectrum Pellets, Rogger's Reef frozen blend.
<<Very good--this species does usually adapt quite well to captive care>>
The clowns have swam over from their lower left corner of the tank (they live here and spawn regularly) once to "check him out." They did so and swam back, no aggression shown at this point whatsoever. Just a "who the heck are you?" kind of thing.
<<Mmm, ok--but do keep an eye on them. A 'group' of newcomers may well bring about a different response, especially should they perceive their territory is under threat>>
The females are drip acclimating as I write to you (I did act fast).
<<Indeed you did!>>
The male Anthias seems to have procured an area for himself by a chalice coral I have on the upper half of the tank's right side.
<<Let's hope the space/area is sufficient>>
Will keep you posted.
<<Look forward to your updates>>
And, thanks again for your timely advice.
Laura
<<Has been my pleasure'¦ EricR>>

Ventralis Anthias <fdg. mostly... other Anthiine stkg./sel.> / HOB Refugium <stkg.>-- 08/24/10
Hello WWM Crew,
<<Hiya Scott>>
Thanks to James and Eric for my questions a few weeks ago, the info was much appreciated.
<<We are pleased to assist--Eric with you again today>>
After reading all of the Anthias FAQ's and articles on WWM (yep, all of them), I had a few stocking questions involving Anthias.
<<Okay>>
The second part of my question involves refugiums; I have not done all my research about the myriad of uses of refugiums and the benefits they offer,
<<Can be substantial>>
but I will finish reading those posts later today / tomorrow.
<<Excellent>>
I purchased my 120g reef tank on Craigslist, it was set up at the owner's house for about 10 months, and I have had it in my possession for about 1 month now. There is significant growth and life on the life rock, the water parameters are perfect (~4 ppm nitrates, 0 ppm nitrites, 0 ppm ammonia, 8.3 pH, 140 ppm Alkalinity,
<<On the low side if you have many stony corals--but still within the 'accepted range'>>
450 Calcium, can't remember the exact phosphate or magnesium levels, but nothing alarming).
My plan was to let the tank recuperate for a few weeks before adding any new livestock, the corals and fish all survived the move and are doing great.
<<Wise of you>>
One day I come home from work (about a week after having the tank set up) and there are three new fish in the tank (Yellow Banded Maroon Clownfish, Blue Mandarin Dragonet,
<<Mmm'¦>>
and a Royal Gramma). My girlfriend saw them at the store and "had to have them".
<<I guess you forgot to update her with your plan? [grin]>>
I was worried that the tank would be too "new" to house fresh livestock but all of these fish seemed great and are still actively eating and looking great now (3 weeks later).
<<Okay>>
My questions are about a few of the more rare Anthias species. Specifically the Borbonius Anthias,
<<Have 'seen' a few of these...stunning fish (but oh what a price tag--$300+ each!!!)>>
and the Ventralis Anthias.
<<Also very attractive>>
I have read that most of these fish do well in groups (1 male and several females).
<<As is the case with most all Anthiines... I don't know much about Odontanthias borbonius though I do believe it to be a deep-water species like Pseudanthias ventralis >>
However, due to their outrageous ticket price (specifically the Borbonius Anthias),
<<Indeed>>
would it be OK if I only introduced one of this species into my tank?
<<I would not recommend this. In my experience, even those so-called 'hardy' Anthiine species like Pseudanthias squamipinnis and Pseudanthias bartlettorum can have problems when mixed with aggressive (as in Damsels, Tangs, Basslets) and/or extremely active (as in most Tang species) tankmates. Even the considerable investment aside, these fish would need/do best in a dimly lit (versus highly phototrophic) reef system, and tankmates chosen with much care>>
I also read that the Ventralis Anthias is a fairly fragile fish.
<<I have heard it can be hardy once acclimated--to the right system>>
In order for me to receive one (or more) I would have to special order them from my LFS (highly trusted) and he would receive them from his supplier. Would it be better to buy this species as well in a group or can it survive solo?
<<In a group, but'¦'¦'¦>>
My worry here is that this fish (or group of fish) would be under too much stress going from supplier to LFS to my tank, with zero acclimation time in the middle grounds (LFS).
<<Unless your LFS is willing to hold these fish to assure they are fit and eating before you pay (not likely, considering), this is your only method of acquisition>>
My LFS will not be getting any of these fish in to sell regularly unless they are special ordered so this would be my only option.
<<Understood--and not unusual considering the price/delicate nature of these fish>>
The second part of my questions involving housing these fish is about feeding.
<<Can be problematic>>
I currently have a 25 gallon sump / refugium (several "hand-fulls" of Chaetomorpha and live rock and I have added 2 bottles of Copepods to the Chaetomorpha which I feed regularly with Phytoplankton).
<<The Phytoplankton should be added sparingly--can be beneficial, but is also easily abused>>
I was wondering if I will need a more established or possibly an in-tank HOB refugium in order to have enough natural life for the Anthias to feed on.
<<You may already have too many 'competitors' for these live foods (the clownfish, mandarin, royal gramma--plus whatever else you may have that isn't listed). But'¦ The best way to seed this refugium is to obtain a cup of substrate and/or small bunch of Chaetomorpha from several other hobbyists' systems and add it to your refugium>>
There seemed to be mixed results regarding the feeding habits with most people's Anthias from what I read on the WWM FAQs. Some people had theirs chomping up Mysis shrimp, others had to go to more exotic routes with Glass Worms, etc.
<<Indeed'¦ You will have to experiment here. And it seems the higher the price-tag the more trouble it is to get them to feed!>>
I have no problem with buying as much prepared food as needed to keep these fish fat and happy but if you think that I need to get a more established natural food colony then I will certainly wait to get these fish.
<<A larger mature refugium will certainly help--but I think not having a species-specific system is your biggest hurdle to keeping either of these two species for the long-term>>
Aside from what I have done already to form my refugium, is there anything more I can do besides just waiting and letting it form naturally?
<<Make it bigger--else, not really>>
Thanks for all of the info;
<<Happy to share my friend>>
I look forward to the advice as always.
<<I think you risk much trying to add either of these fishes to your current system>>
Scott M
<<Eric Russell>>
Re: Ventralis Anthias / HOB Refugium -- 08/25/10
Thanks for the response Eric,
<<You are quite welcome>>
I will definitely spend my next paycheck elsewhere rather than on a Borbonius.
<<All things considered--a good idea>>
My final question is that you said to use the Phytoplankton sparingly, why is this?
<<To minimize abuse/pollution. There's likely little in your system that will consume this (some notable exceptions would be Gorgonians, Tridacnids) other than the tiny target critters you listed. 'Feeding' your refugium is recommended for reasons of increasing population densities of the beneficial biota therein beyond what it might sustain otherwise (some of these little critters become 'cannibalistic' in the absence of adequate foodstuffs--a situation that obviously defeats the purpose of fostering these critter populations in the first place), indeed adding some 'live' Phytoplankton to your system as a whole can prove beneficial to many of the same organisms there. But, this is all too easily 'overdone' if one is not judicious with such liquid food supplements. I merely urge you to be mindful not to overdo. Cheers mate'¦ EricR>> 

Fancy Bass getting lonely. Stkg./sel.  6/24/10
Good day WWM Crew, and thank you for all the valuable information you have on your wonderful website.
<Welcome Patrick>
Recently, I purchased a male Bartlett's Anthias. He was eating and swimming around my 75G saltwater tank just fine, but recently he has been hanging at the upper corner of my tank and not swimming around like he used to.
<Mmm, I see below you understand likely the reason why>
After reading upon your website, I realized the problem might be that he is missing all the ladies in his natural
environment. Currently I have about 100 pounds of live rock, a Remora hang on back protein skimmer, a Eheim Classic canister power filter and about 3-4 inch of livesand. For live stock, I have one 3 inch Bartlett's Anthias, one 2 inch Clown fish, one 1.5 inch Damsel fish and two Bubble Tips Anemones. My question is, is one female Anthias enough to keep my lonely male Anthias happy?
<Two, three would be much better>
I understand in the wild a male Anthias usually have around 7-8 female with him, but I don't want to get more then one. So is that going to be ok?
<Better than zip>
Also, I want to get a Royal Gramma and a Christmas Wrasse in the future, am I over stocking my tank?
<Mmm, no>
Will all my fishes get along?
<Yes, they should... unless the Clown is a rogue individual of a larger species... e.g. Premnas>
Thank you for all your help and all you have done for the hobby.
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Fathead and Waitei compatability    04/18/10
Hello WetWeb Crew,
<Wendy>
I've a question about Fathead Anthias compatability. In my 180 gal (6 ft long) reef tank, I have single 1" Fathead, a 3" Holacanthus bermudensis, a 3" Paracanthurus hepatus and 6 other small fish (Mandarin, 2 Firefish gobies, Bluedot Jawfish,
<Do read here re this species please: http://wetwebmedia.com/BluSptJawF.htm
2 Percula). Would a group of 5 Waitei Anthias be compatible with the single Fathead and other current fish?
<The Serranocirrhitus won't cause the Waitei any harm or concern, the Atlantic angel might if too boisterous... This Anthiine is not easily kept though...>
From research I've done it appears that the Waitei would not be a problem, but I'm not sure if Fathead would harass them when grown larger?
<I strongly doubt that it will/would. Bob Fenner>

Re: Fathead and Waitei compatability 4/18/2010
Dear Bob and WetWeb Crew,
<Welcome Wendy>
thank you so much for your thoughts on Waitei group. As they are not easily kept I will forgo the attempt at keeping these, and perhaps add 2 more Fathead Anthias...?
<Mmm, Fatheads/Sunburst Anthias are not "that" outgoing that I'd recommend them much for a larger system... If you're looking for something of this subfamily that are rather hardier, outgoing, relatively/at all available, I suggest Pseudanthias squamipinnis... others that are listed on the linked files above where you were last referred>
Regarding the Bluespot, I believe all's well (4" sand bed, fine and reef grade mix with much live rock and rubble). I have read thru much info on your site with regard to him, but wondering if there's anything in particular you meant which seems not right in my tank for a Bluespot Jawfish?
<Sorry re... I have a pending article re this/Rosenblatt's Jaw... need what you state, but also cool/er water... a good cover over the top of the tank!>
I am watching the interaction between he and other animals, especially the angel which I've had from a 3/4" specimen,
<Ah good>
and so far all
seems peaceful, with a nice burrow constructed , and eating great just as in the qt tank.
Best wishes,
Wendy Dyke
<And you, BobF>

Lone Female Lyretail Anthias 2/17/10
Hello,
<Rebecca... Oh, Kev!>
I recently purchased a single female Lyretail Anthias.
<Are intensely social animals...>
Seems to be doing very well eating regularly and swimming above the liverock high in the water column. Really an awesome looking fish but I was wondering if a single female would turn male.
<Not very strikingly, but can, yes>
I don't' think so but I have searched and found contradictory information on several other forums. Thanks for any insight you can give me on this. I always have confidence with information I get from the crew here.
Thank again for your help.
Kevin
<Welcome, and please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/anthibehfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Gender ID question regarding Lyretail anthias (Pseudanthias squamipinnis)  11/14/09
Hey, there!
<We're as happy as can be>
In reading through WetWebMedia and other resources, all of them state that the male Lyretail is red,
<Mmm, well, not always... some diversity in this species wide distribution from the western Pacific to the Red Sea, E. Africa>
while the female is orange. The accompanying photos typically show the male with an elongated dorsal spine.
<Typically so>
The coloration on the female is typically shown as a fairly uniform orange with a little color gradation from dorsal to ventral, and the dorsal fin is not elongated.
<Yes, but...>
I recently ordered three females from a reputable online retailer. To my surprise, all three fish, while predominantly orange, have markedly deeper coloration on the dorsal side and elongated dorsal spines.
Did the vendor do me wrong, or are there color and physiology variables among the females that I've simply not seen before?
<I think you likely have three "more males" than any females here... but don't despair! As they say on late night sale-a-thon commercials: "There's more!" If there's enough room, a bit of time going by, weeks to a few months, will show two of them reverting back to more female coloring, morphology>
I'm simply trying to head off the inevitable turf war if I end up with three males in a 140-gal tank.
Thank you!
Derry
<I'd hold on to them... Take a few pix for later reference... You'll see.
Bob Fenner>

Anthias (err Pseudanthias!) Sex Change'¦ Pseudanthias bartlettorum -- 09/30/09
Good evening!
<<Morning here'¦howdy!>>
I understand that the dominant female Anthias in a group will become the male.
<<In the absence of an existing male, yes>>
However, if I were to purchase a single male Bartlett's Anthias, is there a chance it would revert to being a female if it lived sans harem?
<<Not likely, no'¦ I have seen females in transition revert back when exposed to a male/more dominant female'¦but can't say I've seen or heard of a full blown male reverting in the absence of others of its own kind. Speaking of which'¦ While there are some Anthiine species that can be kept as a single male specimen (e.g. - Pseudanthias pleurotaenia, Serranocirrhitus latus), most all benefit from the presence of others of their own kind. I think this is especially so with Pseudanthias bartlettorum'¦in fact, I would consider it a requirement for the successful long term keeping of this fish>>
My tank is only 75gallons in size which I don't believe is enough for even the smallest shoal, but I love these fish dearly and want to learn more of their husbandry and behaviour.
<<Ah but that is the nice thing about the Bartlett's Anthias. This fish is an excellent aquarium choice among the family'¦and given proper consideration to stocking of other fishes, a group of about 5 of these small fish would do fine in a 75g tank>>
Also, will the solitary male's colour fade without females around?
<<More than color will be affected re'¦health and vigor too. I do not recommend the keeping of a solitary specimen of this species>>
Or with intense lighting? I've read that Bartlett's aren't naturally found as deep as many other species.
<<In my, experience lighting intensity has not been a factor with P. bartlettorum>>
Thanks for your time and help!
A.S.
<<Happy to share'¦ EricR>>

Dispar Anthias... sel., fdg..... ranting...  7/13/09
Hi Crew,
This was <the> statement for today's picture:
<">The Dispar Anthias. Indo-west Pacific. To almost four inches in length.
Hard to keep if not immediately trained to take food. Best fed a few times daily. Females have slightly longer pelvic fins. Sipadan 08<">
I would not say it is hard to keep if not trained to take food. Nothing hard about taking care of a dead fish.
Get to the point and say it will die if not trained...
The hard part is in trying to train it. I know because I was not successful.
<Sam, if you would have read here first,
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anthiina.htm, it is
unlikely that you would have purchased this fish. I for sure am not one to gamble my money if I
didn't feel I had a chance at keeping an animal alive. Although Mr. Fenner's statement is true, there
are some folks that have had success with this fish. And, as I recall from previous queries, your tank size is around 10 gallons, much too small to have long term success with any of the Anthias species.
James (Salty Dog)><<Well done James. RMF>>
Sam

Re Dispar Anthias 7/14/09
Hi James,
<Sam>
You have a good memory, I did have a 10 gallon but recently went to a 24.
And you are also probably right that I would not have bought it if I read that even for a 24 gallon.
<Indeed.>
But it was such a nice fish I decided to believe the e-tailer.
My point was that it is not difficult to take care of, it is difficult to train. If not trained it is impossible to take care of. And if trained then there is no difficulty.
Thanks for being there.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Sam

Anthias sex-change question   6/22/09
hello, thanks in advance for your help!
<No problems!>
I started with 1 male and five females in a 100 gal tank, and everything was fine for two months. the male became injured somehow on its side and was lost. the remaining dominant female began what i thought was the change into the male (became more aggressive, color changed, and spine grew). over the next two months, i would see her attack and chase the others into hiding until they all died one by one, leaving only the dominant female (she hasn't fully changed into a male). six months have since passed, and i want to try another school of anthias. i guess my question is, if she was halfway through the change when the last Anthias died, will she return to a female after being alone all this time?
<Nope; sex change in these fish is a one-way ticket.>
she still seems somewhat aggressive toward my 3 chromis. i don't know whether to get more females (hoping she'll complete the change), or to start with a male and more females. or would the best option be to catch her and trade her to my LFS?
<Up to you, but certainly, don't add any more males. If you add females, the sex-changing female/male fish you have should be fine. Alternatively, remove him/her, add some more females, and let nature take its course.>
thanks!
Mike
<Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Anthias sex-change question   6/23/09
Thank you so much for your help! I've relocated the angry fish, and I've started with a new shoal of 6 females and one male.
<Cool. Enjoy your new fish! Cheers, Neale.>

Pink Square Anthias Instead of Fathead Anthias? (Nope'¦choose the Bartlett's) -- 05/04/09
Bob,
<<Hiya Zach'¦Eric here today>>
I recently inquired to you about a trio of fathead anthias for my 75. I couldn't find a trio of fatheads anywhere, but I found two online distributors, one with a trio of Bartlett's anthias for 130$ and the other, with two female pink square anthias for 40$ and a male for 40$. Which would you recommend based on my tank stats and how easy they are to keep?
<<Well Zach'¦ I have kept all three species you mention here. For a system the size of yours, the Bartlett's are far and away the best choice. The Fatheads are just downright mean when it comes to conspecifics, and require much more room to allow less aggressive individuals some space to 'escape' aggression. The Pink Square's, while slightly less aggressive toward each other than the Fatheads (in my experience), just get too darn big for a tank the size of yours. This Anthiine species can grow to more than 9' in the wild'¦ And while they wouldn't get quite that big in your tank (likely about 6' or so), as far as Anthiines go and their inherent need for space (kinda like so many of the Tang species), these guys are bruisers requiring again, much more room than your tank provides. That leaves the Bartlett's'¦ Being rather peaceful (as Anthiines go) toward conspecifics'¦as well as smallish in size (less than 3')'¦not to mention quite hardy'¦this is without a doubt the best choice here for success in your system>>
Thanks,
Zach
<<Happy to share'¦ Eric Russell>>

Re: Pink Square Anthias Instead of Fathead Anthias? (Nope'¦choose the Bartlett's) -- 5/05/09
Eric Russell or Bob or whoever,
<<Hey Zach'¦Eric here again>>
How about a trio of Fiji Lyretail Anthias?
<<Hmm'¦have kept these as well'¦and another superb aquarium species of Anthiine. These get larger than the Bartlett's, and are more aggressive toward conspecifics'¦but if your system is geared to their needs ( http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anthiines_ii.htm , http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fijifwgfaqs.htm , http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anthiina.htm ), and not overly stocked or stocked with other aggressive species, then a trio in your 75g tank may be possible'¦though I still feel the Bartlett's to be the better choice in this size system>>
Sorry to keep bugging you but they just came in on a site and they look beautiful for a cheaper price. http://liveaquaria.com/diversden/ItemDisplay.cfm?c=2733+3&ddid=62528
Thanks,
Zach
<<No problem Zach'¦ Do realize that whichever Anthiine species you choose (Bartlett's or Lyretail); making them the 'focus' of the tank will be beneficial to their health/vigor/longevity. Regards, EricR>>

"Moderate" lighting??? Also, an Anthias question for you... -- 03/27/09
Hey there, Crew!
<<Hiya Crystal!>>
So I've driven myself crazy with reading through the lighting FAQs and the low-moderate light corals FAQs.
<<Have you now>>
I am still doubting myself that I have the "right" amount of light that I need.
<<Oh?>>
I have a 75 gallon Tenecor with approximately (guessing) 100 lbs. of live rock, live sand, skimmer in live rock filled sump, yadda, yadda, yadda. It's been up and running for five years with minimal stocking (have a love for tiny fish like gobies and blennies) so it's all sorts of stable and a very happy place to be a fish.
<<Cool>>
Here's the lighting question that I'd like an answer to -- even if it's only a personal opinion with no specifics (as I've learned that most "facts" of this addictive hobby are):
<<Indeed>>
One 96W Actinic PC
One 96W 50/50 PC
One 96W 10K PC....all over a 20" tall tank.....would you call this "low" or "moderate" lighting?
<<Hmm'¦ Considering that two-thirds of the bulbs are Actinic and 50/50, I think this is in the bottom-half of the 'moderate' scale (make sense?) and likely ideal for many of the Corallimorpharians and other organisms with similar lighting requirements>>
As in I can feel comfy making a home for mushrooms (especially Ricordea), zoos, and MAYBE even some LPS's that state "moderate" as the lighting needs?
<<Ah, yes'¦ Corallimorphs (as stated) and Zoanthids (though some Ricordea and Zoanthid species also do well/color up nicely under more intense lighting) should do well'¦and for suitable 'LPS' specimens I would look to the genus Plerogyra (Bubble Corals) and some of the 'Red Colored' open brain species (red pigmented specimens seem to do better/have lower light requirements than green pigmented specimens)>>
Now for the Anthias question. Since my love of gobies and blennies and a Jawfish, oh my, has left me with a tank that does not have a whole lot of action from across the room.
<<Mmm, indeed'¦ Sounds like a tank that spends most of its time watching 'you' [grin]>>
I've had my eye on adding an Anthias. GORGEOUS!
<<Agreed, though these fishes pose certain obstacles. Many species are difficult to feed, most all are easily intimidated by other fish, some species 'just don't do well' in captivity'¦and'¦being 'haremic' in nature, most species require others of their kind for their long-term physical and psychological wellbeing'¦which makes the size of your tank a limiting factor here as well>>
Understand that they can be shy at first but eventually will swim around once they are comfy.
<<This is not a certainty'¦depending much on species selection and environment>>
And I think the fish I have are lovers, not fighters.
<<Many are relatively peaceful toward other fishes'¦but not when it comes to conspecifics. These fishes all utilize aggression to maintain their sense of 'order' among the social group>>
The particular Anthias I'm interested in and can't seem to find all that much info/opinions about is the Ignitus Anthias (Pseudanthias Ignitus) or Flame Anthias.
<<Mmm, yes'¦has not been often seen in the West I think (and thus not documented), though it seems to be turning up more lately>>
Both the male and the female are awesome in coloring and I'd only be looking to get a bachelor or bachelorette. What, if any, opinions do you personally have about this fish?
<<From the little I have read/know, it seems this Anthiine species 'may' be on par with Pseudanthias bartlettorum (Bartlett's Anthias'¦which by the way, would make for a good alternative species here) re hardiness, ease of feeding, suitability to captive care'¦ I also think this fish will fare much better in a group than as a single specimen. Do consider a trio (male and two females)'¦though if your tank is as lightly stocked as it sounds, four females and one male of this small Anthiine species might prove to be a better numbers>>
Hardy, shy, easy to feed, likes long walks on the beach and getting caught in the rain -- oops, not that one.
<<Hee-hee!>>
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
<<You have' em>>
As always, thanks so much for any and all anecdotes and I look forward to hearing from you...
-Crystal
<<A pleasure to share'¦ Eric Russell>>

Anthias/Compatibility 3/6/09 I have a 180-gallon reef tank with a Hippo Tang, Powder Brown Tang and 2 Ocellaris clowns. I would like to add maybe 2 or 3 different species of anthias. So far I am thinking of Dispar and Bartlett's. My question is should I get all male or all female? Or does it even matter? <Anthias do best when kept with their own species, I would not mix. One male to a harem generally works best. Anthias species all share the trait of being hermaphroditic. If a dominant male perishes, the largest female of the group will often morph to take its place. Do read here and related articles/FAQ's. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anthiina.htm> Thanks for your help. <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>

Re Anthias/Compatibility 3/6/09 Thanks for the reply. <You're welcome.> Ok, so I will get all the same species and probably 3-4 females and then let one of them turn into a male on its own. Do you think Dispar would be ok or should I stick with Lyretail? <Will be up to you here. The Dispar is one of the hardiest of anthias and likely the most territorial. The Bartlett's usually commands at least double the price of a Dispar and is also one of the hardier specie of anthias.> Thanks again. <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>

Midas Lyretail Compatibility Issue... Anthias stkg., beh.    2/27/09 Hi - <Hello Andy> I have a 150 gallon tank with 200# of live rock. I just added a Lyretail Anthias and he wants to desperately kill my Midas Blenny. <Mmm, yes... perhaps too similar, not wanting to share the same niches> From the research that I have done, I thought that the Midas was going to mimic the Lyretail. I also thought of the Anthias as quite a docile fish. <Well... for one, you really need to have more than the one... Pseudanthias squamipinnis is always found in good-sized shoals> Boy, was I wrong. The Anthias actually goes with an open mouth to bite my Midas in his own hole. I have never seen such direct aggression. They don't resemble each other except maybe a little shade of pink. What goes? <Displacement behavior... get more Anthias...> I tried to catch the Anthias but it's almost impossible to do so. It recognizes my net and scurries into the rocks. I can probably catch the Midas but I feel I am punishing the wrong fish. Do you think this "open mouth" aggression will stop? <Not likely enough...> The Midas is reciprocating, however, his fins are starting to tatter slightly and he hangs out in his hole a lot now. He's not going to die all of a sudden, right? <Quite possibly> I could catch the Midas possibly and then reintroduce him at a later time. Do you think that would work? I really prefer the Midas over the Anthias...I hope I am not stuck. Thanks, Andy <May not seem like a good idea, but adding a handful of subadult or female Pseudanthias squamipinnis is the route to go here... Read on WWM re Anthiine stocking... Bob Fenner>

Anthias advice, stkg./sel.  2/16/09 Hi, I have a 90 gallon with some corals (The tank is mostly filled with water; lots of swimming room) with a clown fish, 2 Bartlett's anthias, a square anthias and for the past 2 months a Thompsons anthias according to the LFS where I got it (although it looks more like a bi-color from the pics available online). <Mmm... better to have a haremic shoal of just one species... what you have is not really workable> The Thompson/bicolor has turned out to be a very aggressive male so much that my 2 Bartlett's are hiding most of the time. All was peaceful until he came along, the bigger squarespot having a very neutral temperament. <I see> So it seems I have 2 choices: Get the Thompson out, if I can catch him, and bring him back to the store. Or I can add a couple of more Bartlett's so the aggression will be spread out more and easier on each one. Any suggestions? Thanks. <I would remove the Thompson's, add more Bartlett's for sure. Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/anthiselfaqs.htm Bob Fenner>

Question about Fancy Sea Basses/Anthiinae, sel.  -- 02/05/09 Hey Crew, <<Hey Andy>> I hope all is well. <<Okay for a Thursday mate>> I have a stocking question, if you don't mind. <<Fire away'¦>> I have a 90 gallon reef with about 90lbs of live rock, a 30 gallon Chaeto/live rock/deep sand bed refugium, and a 20 gallon sump. I employ an AquaC EV-180 skimmer and four Koralia 3s for in-tank circulation. Lighting is two 250W 14,000K HQI and four 65W PC 03 actinics. My current stock list includes various SPS and LPS--seven various Acropora and Montipora, 5 Duncan heads, and 2 heads of Candy Cane--and two Lysmata amboinensis. I haven't had any fish in the tank since September, when my power when out for a week while I was on vacation (hard lesson learned ....). <<I think I remember something about this. At any rate'¦wise of you to let the tank go fallow for a while to give the beneficial micro- and macro-fauna some time to recoup>> So, I'm starting to think about restocking. I've never had more than 5 fish, all of which have been community/reef fishes, and I would like to keep it that way. <<Okay>> I got the idea that it might be neat to have a single schooling species in my tank <<Indeed>> --I keep going back and forth as to whether this would be as cool as I think it would be, or whether I'd miss having a variety of fishes <<Although seen more in freshwater systems (especially those super cool Japanese 'planted' systems), a single-species marine tank would be quite worthwhile, in my opinion'¦and even of benefit, when attempting to keep some of the more delicate social species>> (it's nice to have a variety not only for the diversity of colors and shapes, but also for the different roles different fishes play in the tank--some eat microalgae, some sift sand, etc.). <<Ah yes'¦and it is astute of you to realize this. A single-species display does present certain challenges re the 'maintenance' fishes. But some purposeful research could likely turn up one or two options for successful cohabitation with your 'centerpiece' fish specimens of choice>> I've been doing some reading on WWM and other sites/books about Anthias, and I've read that many types of Anthias can be hard to keep, some require muted lighting, many require lots of space, and pretty much all require multiples. <<Agreed'¦and with many variations of these requirements among the differing available species>> I'm hoping that someone who has experience with these beautiful fish can advise me . . . is there a type of Anthias that will do well as a small group in a 90 gallon, or is this tank just too small to even think about them? <<One single species jumps to mind here'¦Pseudanthias bartlettorum, the Bartlett's Anthias. P. bartlettorum is smallish and, as Anthiines go, relatively peaceful towards conspecifics'¦both desirable attributes when attempting to keep Anthiines in small volume displays. They are also, in my experience, just as hardy as the considerably larger and more aggressive Lyretail Anthias (P. squamipinnis). There are other small Anthiines available, but none more suitable to a tank your size than the Bartlett's Anthias I think. A single male with four to eight females (total number dependent upon other fishes stocked) would be fine. The only real problem I've encountered with this species is their propensity to 'jump from the tank' if harassed. Small aggressive fishes like Damsels and Pseudochromis species are to be avoided as tankmates. And although most Tangs will ignore them, the boisterous activity of most tends to make the Anthiines hide or stay to the outer edges of the display, and no doubt is also a cause of stress. So do your homework and choose tankmates carefully. As for feeding'¦frozen mysis and glass worms are usually readily accepted. P. bartlettorum can also be trained to accept New Life Spectrum pellets'¦and doing so, in my estimation, will at least double your chances for success here>> Thanks in advance for your guidance. Andy <<Happy to share, Andy. Eric Russell>> Re: Question about Fancy Sea Basses/Anthiinae - 02/05/09 Wow! Thanks for the great response, Eric. Much appreciated. Andy <<A pleasure my friend'¦ EricR>> R2: Question about Fancy Sea Basses/Anthiinae - 02/06/09 Dear Eric, <<Hey Andy>> One follow-up question regarding the Bartlett Anthias, if I may. <<Of course>> It seems that ordering specific numbers or a particular gender (e.g., I'd like to order 1 male and 4 females) may be difficult unless I get lucky enough to find a LFS that carries both. <<Actually, many shipments of these fish have a male among them'¦if only from the dominant female making 'the change' while the group is held together. But no worries, since these fish are protogynous hermaphrodites, just order females in the number you want and let nature decide which one will dominate the group>> Because these fish are hermaphroditic, however, can I buy 5 females and expect that one will morph into a male? <<Ah yes!>> Andy <<EricR>> R3: Question about Fancy Sea Basses/Anthiinae - 02/07/09 Thanks, Eric. <<Welcome, Andy>> That's the problem--I have yet to find an on-line shipper (any of the reputable ones, anyway) that will let you pick your sexes, much less guaranty the sexes of the fish you get. <<Ah yes'¦but for a few, most are not located near the actual holding facilities from which the fishes are selected and shipped'¦but some, like LiveAquaria.com, do often offer 'sexed' individuals from among the 'social species' of fishes, when available>> My worry is that I would order 5 fish and receive 2 males. <<Understandable>> But, now that I know I can go to a LFS and pick up 5 females and one will eventually turn male, that's great. <<Indeed>> Thanks again, and have a great weekend. Andy <<Quite welcome'¦and the same to you. EricR>> R4: Question about Fancy Sea Basses/Anthiinae - 02/08/09 Please entertain one more question from me Eric, and then I shall let Anthias rest. <<No worries, Andy>> These fish are hermaphroditic, and females will change to males but will the opposite occur? <<Not that I am aware'¦at least not after completion of the transition phase>> Will males turn to females, such that if I did get 2 males in a group of 5, one would do a sex change? <<I think not'¦ I have seen females that appeared to be in the beginning stages of turning male suppressed/reversed by the introduction of a true male'¦but I do not think a terminal male can/will revert to female>> I guess it's that these fish are in such demand that most online shippers that currently offer them won't guaranty sexes, and, in fact, most places are limiting the number of fish they will sell you. <<Really? I find that odd>> I picked up 5 today at That Fish Place in Lancaster, PA, and I believe that only one is male (they all pretty much look alike, but one has a very long dorsal spine). <<Ah yes'¦the male should also display a bit more and darker pink coloration...eventually>> We'll see . . . <<Indeed>> Thanks again. <<My pleasure, mate. EricR>> R5: Question about Fancy Sea Basses/Anthiinae - 02/09/09 Eric, <<Hey Andy>> As you were instrumental to my purchase, I thought I would share a few pictures of my new charges. Take care. Andy <<Ah! These are beauties, and look to be in quite good shape'¦a very aquarium-suitable species indeed. Thank you for sharing my friend. Eric Russell>>

R6: Question about Fancy Sea Basses/Anthiinae - 02/09/09 Thanks! <<Welcome>> They are really beautiful and I have gotten a lot of "Oooh" and "Aaaahhhh" when friends have seen them. <<I'll bet!>> I did a lot of research on how to introduce these into the tank, and saw Bob's/other's admonitions that quarantine is best skipped. <<Indeed this is so'¦ There are species and oftentimes just circumstances where quarantine is not the best approach>> So, with much trepidation I prepared a pH adjusted freshwater, aerated dip with 37% Formalin and dipped them all for 7 minutes. <<Excellent... And though the Formalin may prove too harsh for sensitive/delicate species (I would probably have made do without here), your Bartlett's seem to have endured it in fine shape>> They are the only fishes in the tank, so I guess we'll see. So far, so good. <<Yes>> One thing I noticed that I've never seen with any other fish I've had in my tank is how these fish love to be cleaned by my cleaner shrimps. I read where Bob said that he highly recommends the use of cleaner shrimps with these fish, and I can see why! <<Biological 'cleaners' such as these can be most beneficial, agreed'¦and when/where they offer a practical solution, are certainly a better approach than 'poisons'>> It is really amazing. <<Ah'¦agreed again!>> Andy <<EricR>>

Sexing Dispar Anthias -- 02/05/09 Hi, <Hello.> I recently purchased a trio of beautiful Disbar Anthias. <Pseudanthias dispar.> Two of them are doing great and eating like pigs <Good to hear.> but I did lose one of them in the first few days. It seems he fell prey to something in my tank that was ate most of his tail, he died shortly after that. I'm not sure what could have done this except one of my Emerald Crabs. I have a fairly large one that I haven't seen in a while. Anyway, I'd like to replace that fish with another, the problem is I want to make sure I replace it with a female so they will all get along. <May first want to find the reason for the death of the fish before replacing it.> The two I have seem to look very similar except one has a slightly yellow/orange color compared to the other which is more pink. They both swim together most of the time and get along great. As far as I know they could both be female, or both be male for that matter but I would expect them to fight if that was the case. Is there a definite way to sex these fish before I purchase it at my LFS? <With a little training. The male P. dispar have a bright red dorsal fin. The females are yellow to orange with yellow tail and a pink line from the tip of the snout to the lower part of the eye. Their dorsal fin is only pale red. Please see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anthiina.htm Cheers, Marco.>

Anthiinae for me?? Sel./stkg.    2/2/09 I hope this message finds you all well and in good spirits. I have a stocking question for my 120 gallon reef relating to anthias. Currently I house a 5 in. purple tang, a small pair of tomato clowns who I hope will soon be a mated pair in their xenia home, and a 5 inch Labout's fairy wrasse who I love, both for his personality and the fact that my LFS gave him to me at store cost due to a shipping mistake ( I ordered a Lineatus and the wholesaler shipped my current pet ). Anyway, I want to add a splash of color and movement to the display because my purple tang hides in his cave mostly until feeding time (which to my understanding is normal), <Mmm, should become more social with time, familiarity> my clowns rarely leave the xenia and my wrasse is normally the only thing in the open. I am leaning toward a group of either Ignitus or Resplendent Anthias. I have found most information relating to the Ignitus being favorable, however the Resplendent seems to be harder to get info about. Any thoughts? <Can be a more touchy species... both/all Anthiines need to be acquired in "good shape"... not skinny... and introduced all at once ideally... with but one decided male/alpha specimen in hobby sized systems...> I'd also like your thoughts on how many to purchase for both the health of the group and so I don't crowd my tank. <Five would be best... three would do> As I've said time and again, you guys are the first place I turn for information because I've never been led down the wrong path. Thanks again. Shawn Green Baltimore, MD <Either of these species will be mighty fine given the provisos stated above. Am sure you will enjoy their color, behavior. Bob Fenner>

Mixing anthias to reduce male aggression? 1/31/09 Dear Crew, <Carolyn> Is it possible for a male of one type of anthias to form a harem with females or another? My reason for asking is that when I lost my male carberryi anthias not 1 but 2 of the females changed sex to become males. <Happens at times> As a result, the lone female tends to be protected (and possibly harassed) by the dominant male while the subordinate male remains at a safe distance. <Hopefully there's room...> Would you recommend leaving the situation as it is (they're in a peaceful 135 US gallon system with a 30 US gallon sump, other inhabitants are: Randall's shrimp goby/shrimp pair, pair of false percula clowns, mandarin, female Lamarck's angel, female flame angel, 5 yellow tail blue damsels)? The alternatives would be to see if I can get hold of some female carberryi anthias (risking a similar situation re-occurring), or to add some female Lyretail anthias in the hope that they would accept the male carberryi as their alpha male. <Mmm, would be better to trade out one of the present males, for a small female...> Not sure what to do for the best - don't like to see the lone male looking so lonely without some females of his own! <Try the local fish stores, clubs, even Craig's list to see if someone needs a male...> Many many thanks for taking the time to read this, I've found similar questions on WWM, but none that answered mine... Carolyn <Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Sunburst Anthias and Bartlett's Anthias  11/15/08 Hi WWM crew, <<Hello Benson>> You guys probably heard this a million times but this truly is a great service you provide. <<Ah but we never tire of hearing it [grin]'¦many thanks>> Too my question, I would like to add a Sunburst Anthias to my 100 gallon tank. <<A splendid fish'¦ And can prove difficult to keep, with individuals kept singly seeming to fare better'¦ in my opinion/experience. But have you read here? http://www.wetwebmedia.com/serranocirrhitus.htm>> Will the Sunburst Anthias have any problems adapting to its new tank mates and will the current inhabitants be okay with the addition of the Sunburst Anthias? <<The other Anthiines you have listed shouldn't be a problem, but the Damsels may take exception to this introduction and cause problems. It is also important that the Sunburst Anthias have some caves/overhangs available to it so it can retreat from any bright lighting you may have on the tank>> Also, dose my tank have the capacity for a new addition? Here is my current live stock: 2 True Percula Clowns 1 Black Saddleback Clown 1 Kupang Damsel 1 Four Strip Damsel 1 Yellow Tang 1 Pink Spotted Goby 1 Six line Wrasse 1 Midas Blenny 3 Bartlett's Anthias 1 Kole Tang (In quarantine tank for 22 days so far) 2 Cleaner Shrimps Assorted snails and hermit crabs <<Aside from the Tangs this is an assortment of fairly small fishes'¦ The addition of this Serranid should be fine re your stocking capacity but do keep an eye out for any harassment from the Damsels>> Benson Wong <<Regards, Eric Russell>>

Is It Okay To Add The Male bimaculatus Anthias First? -- 10/20/08 After over a year of searching for a trio (I've been unsuccessful in finding a group), I've given up and decided to pick up a 4.5" male Twinspot Anthias (Pseudanthias bimaculatus) in hopes of picking up two to three females sometime in the future. The male is currently in a 30 gallon quarantine and doing well, eating mysis and brine shrimp. <<Very good>> I've read conflicting reports that the females should be added first or at the same time as the male. <<This is the consensus for the 'best' chance of a successful grouping, yes>> I had also read that there was a risk that by adding the females first, that the dominant female would eventually change to a male. <<More than just a 'risk' if left too long'¦best to add the male within a week of introducing the females, in my opinion>> Lastly, I had read that it was possible that the male would likely bully females added after the male had been added. <<This too is true>> Will I be ok with adding two-three females with the male? <<Possibly>> Or is this asking for trouble? <<The more females added at one time the more any aggression will be spread around'¦be aware that the females too will establish a dominance hierarchy among themselves. Three is a good number'¦five would be better (assuming the system can handle them)>> The main tank is currently a 100 gallon set up over a year and a half old, FOWLR. The tank is currently inhabited by a pair of 1.5" Ocellaris Clowns, a 4" Raccoon Butterfly, a 4.5" Achilles Tang, <<Mmm'¦a delicate species that needs a bigger tank than this>> a 3.5" Queen Angel, <<Also 'too much fish' for this size tank>> a 3" Mystery Wrasse, a 3" Algae Blenny, and a 3" Eibli Angel. I know, too many fish for a tank this size. <<Not 'too many' for the tank so much as just inappropriate species selection re>> I have a 240 gallon tank currently being set up, which will be the FOWLR for the Queen Angel, Raccoon Butterfly, Eibli Angel, and probably the Achilles Tang with eventually more fish. <<The Queen Angel can reach 20' in the wild'¦and the Achilles needs lots of swimming room (and lots of water flow). With an eye toward the future, I would be reluctant to add anything but a few very small fishes here>> The 100 will be converted over to a reef with the clowns, mystery wrasse, algae blenny, and trio of bimaculatus Anthias. <<Do be aware the Clowns may pose a problem re the Anthias'¦I have seen Damsels chase small Anthiines to the point they jump from the tank in an effort to escape>> Which, by the way, would it be ok to add one of the fairy wrasses to the 100 with the mystery wrasse? Or will they fight? <<A similar or smaller sized specimen will likely be attacked>> I enjoy reading your site and many thanks in advance! --Wes <<We are all happy to share. Regards, EricR>>

Anthias and Jaw Fish? Sel./Sys.    10/14/08 Hello Bob and Crew, <Chris> Thanks for the amazing resource! <Welcome> I have 2 stocking questions for you. I am currently upgrading what has been a very successful 30 gallon SPS dominated tank (yes, required lots of overkill equipment not normally seen on a system this small to maintain proper parameters) to a 65 gallon display with a 37 gallon sump and 20 gallon refugium. I will have approximately 50X turnover in the main display (non laminar flow, random to keep my SPS happy) <Ahh! Much better, and easier to maintain> Filtration for the new system will consist of an AquaC 180 skimmer, ~100 lbs of Fiji live rock and the fuge (on reverse daylight cycle). I will be using a Phosban reactor and carbon reactor (carbon as needed) to maintain low PO4 and high clarity. The system will be running an AquaController maintained calcium reactor and Kalk reactor to maintain pH/Ca/Alk. <Lots of automation> My current stock includes a small flasher wrasse, a yellow assessor, a mandarin (eats mysis) and a Banggai cardinal. I also have a golden angel (Centropyge aurantius) that has been in my quarantine system that I would like to add to the new tank should it be able to prove itself generally uninterested in eating SPS corals clams and Acans. <You'll see> (small frags/a clam will be rotated through the QT system to assess this behavior as best as possible.) There are two additional species I would like to add but am wary of stocking capacity and fish behavior. 1) In the past, I have always maintained ~1 inch of sand in my reef tanks (which was vacuumed weekly as part of my water change routine). I have read several opinions on this site and others re sand depth and this species. Do you think this fish <... Opistognathus aurifrons?> be reasonably content with 2-3 inches of sand and would it be okay to employ this much sand with a weekly/bi-weekly vacuuming regimes? I would rather not go into the uncharted territory of DSBs if I can help it (and would gladly forgo this specimen if need be). <S/b fine here... may well pile up some of this material... No big deal> 2) The other slightly controversial addition that I would love to include but fear I may need to forgo is a m/f pair of some sort of Anthias. I have found hugely conflicting information in regard to the husbandry of these fish. I see that conspecific aggression is a major issue in haremic groupings between females or between two males. I have not been able to find any information about the behavior of a male female pair (particularly in the relatively small system) Pseudanthias bartlettorum seems to be on the smaller end of the easier to maintain members of the group. Nemanthias carberryi also seems to be a smaller species that might be suitable (sources conflict on adult size). What are your thoughts on putting a m/f pair of these or other Anthias in the described system? <Some species, as you state, can/do get along in smaller numbers, sex ratios in captivity. Bartlett's is a good choice here, but your system is getting a bit crowded...> I do not anticipate adding additional fish to the system beyond this stock list. Thanks for your time and input, Chris <And you for sharing. Bob Fenner>