Firefish trouble... Reading   4/1/08
Hi there and let me first say thank you for a great site. My Firefish while under a .3 percent dose of Cupramine has developed either a growth or injury to its mouth.
<Mmm, not uncommon with Microdesmids... from jumping, running into things in captivity... the copper might be a factor here as well>
The fish can no longer close its mouth and it looks as if it hurts it eat. The growth or injury seems to cover the entire bottom lip and even appears to be getting larger. The growth or injury is brown in color and at first glance I thought it was some kind of food lodged in the fishes
mouth. Just today I noticed that the tail fin seems to be frayed.
<Bad...>
I can not tell if this is a injury also or if it is a symptom of the growth in the fishes mouth. Any advice you can provide would be much appreciated.
Regards,
Lee
<... this fish is very likely a goner... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dartfish.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Stress Guard... Microdesmid trouble? Nature of disease/health, tilting balances...    10/3/06
Forgive me if this answer is already posted on the board but I really did try.
I have a recent addition (Scissortail Goby) that seems to be suffering from some type of external parasite, I don't think its ich because the small white spots are in different quadrants of the fish and not like salt has been shaken on it. But then again what do I know I've never had ich before.
<Mmm, there are a few "things" that look like this>
Anyway, I am going to remove him from the tank (if I can) and QT him/her. I was thinking of putting Stress Guard in the tank to build up the slime coat of my other inhabitants hoping to avoid any further parasite hosts.
<I would leave this fish where it is... if indeed there is a pathogen involved, it has already infested the system>
So here is the question, would you know if Stress Guard is reef safe?
<I don't, wouldn't use it... There are a few "things" I'd like to relate... first, the overall "picture" of disease/health: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mardisease.htm
The fact that this species is social, shy, needs lots of room, a paucity of aggressive tankmate beh.: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dartfish.htm
and maybe lastly for now, the value/utility of purposeful cleaners: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clnrfaqs.htm>
Thanks,
Tom
<And the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Sick Firefish?  - 5/8/2006
Hi Crew,
<Thomas>
I know this might be hard to answer, but hopefully you can help.
<Will try>
I have a Purple Firefish that's been alone in a 15 gallon quarantine tank for 3 weeks and 2 days.
<Mmm, hard on microdesmids, this species in isolation... social animals...>
The quarantine tank was held at 1.017 specific gravity until a couple days ago, when I starting daily water changes (2 gallons, then 3 gallons) replacing the quarantine water with system tank water with specific gravity 1.025. As of today, specific gravity is just under 1.022.
The Firefish has been behaving and eating well.  My old eyes are not that sharp anymore, but until today, I had not noticed any visual signs of disease either.
Today, however, I noticed maybe 4-6 small patches on each side of the fish that looked unusual.  I examined these with a magnifying glass.  Some appeared to have no well defined form, to be slightly raised above the skin, and almost transparent.  I also noticed three or four other milky to translucent things attached to the skin that seemed to have form.
<Ahh!>
These appeared elongated in shape, I'd guess well less than 1 mm in length, and sometimes looked attached at one end only, so the other end would occasionally lift up (perhaps from the current - or maybe these things move).  It would be easy to imagine that these were some kind of "worm" attached to the fish.  Could the other formless patches be lesions from previous attacks by these "worms"?
<Yes... but likely "flukes" themselves>
So I have three questions:  Can you guess what this is?  Do you think I would have a decent chance of curing this problem simply by lowering specific gravity to 1.01-1.012?  If not, how would you recommend I treat this fish?
<I would not reduce the spg, but try the use of a purposeful cleaner here... either a Gobiosoma goby or a Lysmata shrimp... small specimen>
P.S. I decided to begin lowering specific gravity -- initially from 1.022 to 1.018, and four hours later to 1.015, where I'll leave it until tomorrow.  Too fast, probably, but since the fish still looks strong, maybe it will hurt the disease more than the fish.
<Hard to state, but the fact that this apparent pathogen has persisted through the previous density manipulation is telling... Bob Fenner>
Thanks,
Tom

Re: Sick Firefish?  - 5/11/06
Thanks, Bob.
<Welcome>
Here's a follow-up, and some additional questions.
The next morning, before getting your email, I went ahead with one more 20 percent water change, dropping the specific gravity to a little under 1.012. As of now (48+ hours later), I can no longer see parasites on the fish's skin, fish's color looks better, fish continues to eat well  -- in short, this appears to have worked.
Recall that I had held specific gravity at 1.017 for three weeks, and then increased it to 1.022, after which I noticed these parasites.  I wonder what mechanism is at work here.
<Me too>
Were these parasites "dormant" in the quarantine tank until the specific gravity was increased?
<Perhaps>
Were they in the system water I used to raise the specific gravity?
<Maybe>
That system water came from a tank that now contains just one fish -- a Yellow Clown Goby -- that's been in there for 6 months and seems healthy.  I did have a Firefish in there for four months, but he disappeared after a few weeks of seeing him less and less.  I did not notice any sign of parasites on him before he disappeared, though.  He's been gone over two months now.
If these parasites just remain dormant, or somehow persist in my system tank, I will have this problem again when I raise the specific gravity, or begin acclimation to system water.  If this worry is well founded, perhaps I should get a cleaner Goby as you suggested.  What is your opinion now?
<The same... to try the cleaner>
Also, I had understood from your book that one should have 20 gallons per fish to keep more than one Firefish.
<Yes, a good general "rule of thumb" with this family>
Since I have only a 30 gallon system here, I have not been considering more than one Firefish.  Do you think that's right?
<Yes>
Finally, how long do you think I should keep specific gravity at 1.012 in the hope of wiping out the parasite population?
<Am not a fan of hyposalinity (alone) as a treatment of parasitic disease. This condition persisted through your last effort at such... Bob Fenner>
Thanks,
Tom

Goby Quarantine Period 10/11/05
Hi Crew (especially Bob F. if available),
<Howdy>
Bob Fenner suggests a short quarantine for Gobies (maybe a few days), since longer quarantine periods represent a "bad trade-off." I assume he means that after a few days, the additional insurance against disease transmission is outweighed by ill-effects of additional quarantine time for fish like Gobies.
<Good interpretation>
My question: If my Goby (actually Firefish) has been in quarantine for 5 days, is looking/acting/eating well, and shows no outward evidence of disease, is that a reason to get him into the main tank soon (since he is likely disease free) or is that a reason to leave him in quarantine (since he does not appear to be suffering from being there)?
<Not a problem here>
Of course, I have to assume that one should also consider what is at risk in the main display tank.
<Yes>
In my case, there are no fish yet, but there are hermit crabs, a Fireshrimp, mushroom coral, and live rock. So, if I introduce a sick Firefish, I would lose no other fish, but I assume I would have to leave the display tank fallow for at least a month.
Thanks, Tom
<Could. Bob Fenner>

Re: Goby Quarantine Period 10/12/05
Hi Bob,
<Hello again>
Thanks for the prompt reply. However, I need clarification on this point: 
My question: If my Goby (actually Firefish) has been in quarantine for 5 days, is looking/acting/eating well, and shows no outward evidence of disease, is that a reason to get him into the main tank soon (since he is likely disease free) or is that a reason to leave him in quarantine (since he does not appear to be suffering from being there)?
<Not a problem here>
By "Not a problem here" do you mean that if the Firefish (or any other Goby) is apparently doing well in quarantine, quarantine should continue for a full 4 weeks?
<<Yes, sorry for the lack of clarity>>
And conversely, your short quarantine recommendation applies when the Goby is not doing well in quarantine?
<<Yes>>
Thanks again, Tom
<<Bob Fenner>> 

Purple Firefish passed away, was there anything I could/shouldn't have done?  9/8/05
First of all, thanks for such a great website with tons of info.  We are new to the scene and your website has helped us a lot in countless ways.  At this moment, I really need help in evaluating the following scenario and please advise me of any wrong doings before we mishandle another precious beautiful life.  I'll try to keep it short, so please bear with me.
<Okay>
My husband and I bought a purple Firefish 2 1/2 weeks ago from a LFS.  I recalled later that the owner of the LFS didn't put stress coat into the bag.  When we got home approx. 1 -1 1/2 hrs. later, we immediately turn the lights off & put the little bag in the aquarium to adjust the temperature.  At that time we noticed that the fish was slightly tilted to its side in the bag.  We let it float for 15 min.s, then pour the entire content into a plastic container.  The fish seemed better in the container, it was not leaning to its side and swims a little bit.  We then used turkey baster to take some water out, then put some aquarium water in.  However, whenever we put aquarium water into the container, the fish would tilt slightly, but if I put some of its bag water back, it would straighten up again.  It seemed better after we put some stress coat in, but the same scenario repeats whenever we attempt to put aquarium water in.  Puzzled, I check the salinity of the bag water, it was close
to 1.027, and ours was at 1.023.  
<... too much difference>
Thinking after the super slow acclimation, the fish would adjust the new water parameter,
<Mmm, no... a couple of thousandths per day... 24 hours is about right>
we patiently took about 5 - 6 hours to gradually acclimate him.  Then, since he looked somewhat OK, we carefully put him into the aquarium (16 gallons),
<Too small...>
but he lays on the sand, wouldn't move and was breathing rapidly.  So after 2 hours, we carefully put him back into the plastic container.  The next day, we went to the LFS with bottles thinking that perhaps their water was more suitable then ours for the fish.  The guy at the LFS gave us a gallon of Catalina Island water (that's what they use, they claimed it has gone through UV sterilization),
<Good quality synthetic is superior>
and advised us to check the PH of our water.  We rushed home and checked the PH of our tank, it was at 8.0 - 8.1, and the water he gave us was at 8.3.  We then proceeded with a small water change, put 1/2 gallon of Catalina Island water in, then used Seachem Reef Buffer to increase the PH over several hours to 8.2.  At the mean time, we pour the other
1/2 gallon of water into the container with the fish (nick named YY at this point, since YY means not straight or tilted in Chinese), then proceeded to acclimated him again.
At this point, YY would not eat, and spent most of time lay on the bottom of the container breathing heavily.  The guy at the LFS told us that YY would have a better chance of survival in the aquarium then in the plastic container,
<Yes>
so after a couple of hours later, we put him into the tank again.  This time, he swam a little, and ventured into the cleaner shrimps "clinic".  Both of our skunk shrimps were immediately all over him, particularly over him head.  They were picking at his gills so hard he turned sideways.  One of the shrimp was particularly interested in him, but after a while, YY started running away from the shrimp.  After a few hours, we noticed that he was not only still breathing hard, laying on the sand, he was also scratching constantly against the substrate.  
<Perhaps was infested...>
It is probably necessary to add that on the same day we bought YY, we also bought a pair of false Clowns from Petco that's only 5 min.s away from home.
<To go in the same too-small 16 gallons? Both/all w/o quarantine?>
  They were acclimated in similar manner and were transferred into the tank in about an hour.  They are now still healthy and adorable.  Since we were afraid that YY might have parasites and that could potentially pass to the clowns, we took him out again,
<... would be too late by then>
dipped him in fresh water w/Methylene blue, then put him in a larger glass container with 1 1/2 of water and Kordon's Rid Ich in mild dosage,
<Too toxic, much added stress...>
also aerated the water with an air stone as suggested by the LFS guy.  Unfortunately, YY left us early next morning.
<Am not surprised>
Did we do something wrong?
<A few things...>
Was the travel too long / stressful for YY? Would he be less stressed with the aid of stress coat from the moment he was put in the bag at LFS?
<Doubtful>
Or was YY sick / too stressed to begin with?
<Maybe>
Was it due to our water parameter being so different?
<A very important contributing cause, yes>
We should have checked all water parameters beforehand, but since the clowns seemed OK, and there were so little water in the bag, barely enough for salinity check, we didn't even thought about it.  The clowns were purchased from the same Petco where we bought all the set-up, tank, live rock, & salt water (they use Instant Ocean) prior to mixing our own (with Reef Crystal), so it possible that our tank condition is closer to theirs.  Should we have matched our water parameters close to YY's and all of our future purchases?
<Yes... close as you can... through quarantine...>
Is purchasing from different LFS a bad idea?  Or just not on the same day?
<Mixing new purchases is generally a poor idea, not quarantining most is a terrible one... Not checking the requirements of livestock ahead of time... disastrous. Your tank is too small for what you have placed...>
Sorry for all the questions and long description of the scenario, we really loved YY and will mostly like purchased another purple Firefish again, so I really hope to eliminate all the possibilities of our wrong doing to ensure our fishes will have a happy life in our aquarium.  Thank you for your help.
Lorie
<I've recently "split up" the Microdesmid FAQs... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/drtfshsysfaqs.htm
and elsewhere... books, the Net re Firefish Systems... On WWM re quarantine protocols... Bob Fenner>

Re: Purple Firefish passed away, was there anything I could/shouldn't have done? 9/8/05  9/9/05
Thank you for your prompt response.  I'm really sorry for not indicating that our 16 gallon bow-front tank (although was not intended to be a QT) is and will always be the QT (after learning from your site of its importance, I WOULDN'T EVEN DARE write to you if we didn't have one).  It has been up & running since June 12th with the following:
1.  15lb of Fiji live rock (were fully cured & brought home completely submerged in saltwater from Petco 5 min.s away from home),  
2.  20lb of CaribSea Arag-Alive Bahamas Oolite Sand,
3.  Marineland Stealth 200 Visi-Therm Submersible Aquarium Heater,
4.  Fluval 304 (with Two Little Fishes HydroCarbon & PhosBan, Fluval foams & Biomax)
5.  Standard florescent light fixture from All-Glass We also have a 46 gallon bowfront tank (equipped with same heater, filter, but longer standard light fixture) that has been used to cure 50lb of Marshall Island rocks since August 6 (they are already cured at this moment).  We are in the process of getting 60lb of CaribSea Arag-Alive Bahamas Oolite Sand for this tank,
6.  AquaC Remora Protein Skimmer, shared between the tanks,
<One at a time>
and
7.  Reef Crystal with additions of Seachem Prime & Reef Buffer (after reading your site, we will be switching to Tropic Marin Pro Reef),
8.  DI water for mixing salt.  We use Aqua. Pharm. Tap Water Purifier, and were shocked to get only 25 gallons out of each column (sometimes less, that's how bad Los Angeles water is).  Without a trustworthy source of RO/DI water within 30 min.s of drive, this is what we settled with for now.
I was told these are all we need at this moment.  We are still learning & researching and will add other equipment, refugium, sump, VHO lights, RO unit, etc., if necessary.  
<You are "way ahead of the curve">
The residents in the quarantine tank are as follows: 1.  2 skunk cleaner shrimps that molts every 1 1/2 - 2 weeks (purchased on June 26th, 2 weeks after the set-up), 2.  2 feather dusters (sorry, they were purchased with the shrimps, before we found your site), 3.  A pair of false clowns (purchased on Aug. 20th with the purple Firefish from different source).  
Fully aware of the limitation of our tank size, we have been very restrained from purchasing any more livestock.  We were not going to purchase any fish until the 46 gallon is totally complete and filled with live sand, despite the fact that my husband's family thought we were out of our minds for having nothing but pieces of rocks in the tank with only 2 shrimps (no fish?!).  
<"Things take time..." An important lesson>
However, one of our shrimp has given birth to hundreds of babies the day before we purchased the Firefish & clowns.  We were extremely excited, but after reading your site & breeder's registry, also confirming with the LFS that it is close to impossible to raise the babies, my husband thought it would be a good idea to add fishes to consume them before they die off & possibly foul the water completely.  Thus leads to the purchases of the Firefish & clowns.
<I see>
We were not aware of the purple Firefish needing a bigger tank.  On Liveaquaria.com, it is classified as Nano fish with minimum of 10 gallon tank size compared to false clowns that need minimum of 30 gallon tank.
<Opinions vary>
We have also seen the Firefish been placed in 12 gallon nano tank in LFS with corals. Is 46 gallon still too small for one purple Firefish & 2 clowns?
<Mmm, likely okay>
We are planning to have maybe 5-6 small fishes (no more then 3" in adult size) in the 46 gallon and are well aware of the limited selection of fishes we can keep.  
<This does appear so>
Can you recommend any reputable LFS in the Los Angeles area for marine livestock?
<There are a few... but would rather refer you to MASLAC... the L.A. marine club... and have you "chat" with them re. Can be found on the Net>
The quality of livestock in Petco we frequent varies a lot.
<Uh, yes... Have followed this co. quite a bit... was one of the early "architects" of their livestock program... The mass-merchandisers have yet to "get right" the pet-fish end>
Last time we were there, they had an outbreak of ich in almost all the tanks that are linked to the same filtration system.
Most of the fishes were so infested they looked scary. Most of LFS also has linked systems and we wouldn't buy any livestock from the place if we see any casualty in any of the linked tanks.  We feel that the least they can do is to take the bodies out before it rots and become infested with bacteria.  
<Yes>
Also, for the feather dusters, is Liquid life BioPlankton a better choice then DT since it claims to be highly concentrated?
<IMO yes>
Is Cyclop-eeze whole freeze dried (powder) too big for them, or can it be blended down to appropriate size?
<Can be mixed... a good idea>
Last but not the least, what are the medications will you suggest to keep at hand for emergencies?
<Mmm, actually... none if there are stores nearby... too much tendency for folks to "medicate" out of fear, reaction... more harmful than usually is worthwhile>
  We currently have Methylene Blue & Rid Ich.  I now know Rid Ich (Malachite green & Formalin) is probably too toxic for most marine fishes (it worked well with our Koi though), so I have ordered SeaChem Cupramine (it seemed milder then CopperSafe)
<Chelated and not...>
with their copper test kit for parasites, and intend to order Furan-2 (contains Nitrofurazone, Furazolidone, and Methylene Blue Trihydrate) for bacterial infections.  Are there anything else you'll recommend?  I know it is best not to dose medication unless absolutely necessary, but I just want to be prepared.  It is often difficult to find what's needed in an urgency locally.
<Much, too much to discuss here re...>
Sorry for the long post.  Again, I really appreciate you and your crew's assistance in providing and sharing your  precious experiences in the field, so newbies like us has someone to turn to other then blindly trusting the LFS that are more interesting in making $$ then anything else.  BTW, I finally found a copy of your book last night, great book.
Lorie
<Ahh, a pleasure to have intelligent, caring people in our interest. Again, thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>

Dead fish/replacing male clown 6/31/05
Hello Crew,
<Linda>
I have tried to find my situation in the FAQs but didn't find it.  I have two questions:
1) Can/should I get another male clown for my female clown?
<If you'd like. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clnfshbrdfaqs.htm>
2) What happened to the male clown and two Firefish?
<Mmm...>
Here is the story:  I had a pair of tank bred percula clowns that I've had since I started my tank 8 months ago.  They were already paired in the store and got along great.  The male was adventurous and has been found in the overflow and sump several times before I covered it.  He was always fine.
<Ah, yes... the classic "Nemo" syndrome>
  One day I didn't see him until yellow-headed goby was trying to taste his dead body (I was quite surprised and saddened).  His body was torn up a bit, but I'm not sure if that was after he was dead or not.  On a side note I had 2 fire fish die a few weeks earlier - one had his tail chewed on...then his dorsal fin was gone...then he was floating dead (over a period of 2-3 weeks).  Then the other one just disappeared about a week later (no body found).  I haven't seen any predator at night and no signs of disease/other problems.
<The microdesmids do "just" die mysteriously... but you may have a hitchhiking crustacean... Pistol or Mantis shrimp...>
Here is the set-up:
75 gal reef with 90-100 lbs LR
35 gal sump/refugium with LS and 40 lbs LR
1 Kole tang
1 yellow-headed sleeper goby
1 mandarin
2 clowns (male is now dead)
2 Firefish (both now dead)
4 red hermits
2 emerald crabs (removed after clown death)
3 cleaner shrimp
1 serpent star
1 black brittle star
1 crocea clam
1 bubble coral
1 hammer head
Zoanthids
mushroom corals
Thanks in advance!
Linda
<Or could be from a toxicity... from the Zoanthids... or... I would place a baited trap... at night. Bob Fenner>

Firefish With Flushed Cheeks - 08/11/2005
Hi,
New to the questions here:) We have a 40 gallon tank that has two Indo Firefish and today we noticed a red spot on one of them. It's located by the gills on the right side. Our other Firefish doesn't have one. What could this be?
<Very, very many possibilities, and too little information....  could be a wound, perhaps from a parasite; could be an indication of bacterial infection; could be irritation from something in the water....  Could be "nothing much at all".  Watch carefully, quarantine if necessary.>
Thanks!!
<Start here for more:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mardisindex.htm .  Wishing you well,  -Sabrina>

Sick Purple Firefish  9/4/05
Hi Folks,
<Marshall>
I have perused many pages on Firefish and many on illness and still no luck in getting an answer on my question so I turn to your expert advice.  I maintain a 5 month old 180 gallon FOWL system for my uncle that has 240 lbs of very mature live rock.  We have a 55 gallon sump with a protein skimmer, more live rock, live mud and live sand.  My only point of concern for the setup is the lighting.  I have a Corallife Aqualight with only 384 watts of lighting mixed between 10K lights and Actinics.
<Mmm, I'd switch the latter out for more "white">
  As of my last test everything was at acceptable levels for a FOWL system.  I do a 10% water change each month but as of this month I'm switching to a 20% change.
<Better to do two tens at half month intervals...>
  For supplements I regularly dose Coralvital, Coralvital Live Sand Booster, Iron, Zooplex, Two Little Fishies C Balance and Iodine.
<I'd skip the voodoo "vital" products... they're not (vital)>
We have a large cleaner crew but as for fish we have (many),
1) Queen Angel (Juvenile)
2) Emperor Angel (Juvenile)
3) 2 Yellow Tangs
4) 1 Purple Tang
5) Tassel Fish
6) Orange Shoulder Tang (Juvenile)
7) 2 Blackcap Jawfish
8) Purple Firefish (the guy in question)
9) 5 Cleaner Shrimp
10) 2 Bicolor Blenny
11) Coral Beauty
12) Sixline Wrasse
13) Ruby Head Fairy Wrasse
14) and the big daddy a Zebra Moray
I know this seems like a lot of fish but so far everyone is getting along just fine (even the blennies).  The only issues I have had was a case of Popeye on one of the Yellow Tangs (which I treated with NoSickFish.com's Popeye treatment)
<I do wonder what is in these products>
and a case of Lymphocystis on the other Yellow Tang and the Queen Angel which went away on their own. I noticed tonight that my Firefish has what appears to be several blisters forming along his sides.  I don't recall seeing them before today but now he has about 5 of them mainly on his right side and 1 or 2 on his left side.  He isn't lethargic and eats just fine.  I'm not sure what these are and as a result I don't know what to do.  I hoping that you can help me because I really don't want to lose him.
Thanks,
Marshall
<I wish I could... the Microdesmid may have a subcutaneous "worm" or protozoan pathogenic disease... but, w/o removing it (I would not add medicines to the main system...) and trying a few (e.g. Praziquantel, Metronidazole) targeted therapeutics... and the added stress... I would leave it as it is, and "hope for the best", a spontaneous recovery. Bob Fenner>

Question on a Firefish
Hi, My name is Tara.
I was surfing the internet looking for answers to a sudden death of my Firefish. I came across your site and was excited with all the information I found on other topics, but unfortunately, not on my problem. Maybe you could help me-----
<I will try>
I recently purchased a Firefish (I asked for two, but was only sent one). He seemed to be doing well, then just died all of a sudden today. 
<Among other sources of "stress"... you know (or seem to) that these are not "solitary" animals... shame on the folks who only sent you one... they should be held in "solitary confinement" for a while...>
I have a 90 gallon reef with a sea clone skimmer, a hot magnum 350 BioWheel, two actinic lights (one white, one blue) and two daylight lights. In the tank is about 50 lbs of live rock with various hard corals, starburst polyps, 2 cleaner shrimp, a false percula, a diamond watchman goby, a bi-color blenny, a Sebae, 2 Condys, 3 tiger-tailed cucumbers, 2 brittle stars, and tons of Turbos and blue-legs. The water quality, at least from what I can tell, is great. No ammonia or nitrites, about 15 ppm nitrate, ph is 8.2 and the salinity is .023.
Everything else in the tank is doing perfect. What could have happened? I know that the Firefish like to be in groups, but would that have actually killed him? Any thoughts on it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
<I do consider that the cumulative hardships of collection, shipping, being alone did conspire to result in the loss of this individual. Do try again, more than one, with a different dealer. Bob Fenner>

Firefish Down!   3/19/03
Hi Phil,<Hey Richard!!  What's up?>
Bad news, just had a casualty overnight.<Oh no, I'm truly sorry!  The loss of a fish is never easy!> I've got a 30 gallon which cycled
properly.<Good> My first inhabitants were a pair of Firefish. Day one they were out feeding together in the water column day two I introduced a orange spot goby. During the second day one of the Firefish started to stay out of sight it would come out occasionally but wasn't feeding. It would stay under a rock shelf, its dorsal fin was laying down and wouldn't come up. Day three in the morning I found it dead on the bottom of the tank so I took it out, it had a bite out of the neck probably after it died the orange spot took a taste.
Any ideas as to what happened, I thought these were hardy fish. I couldn't see any lesions on the body. Should I do anything with the other fish?<You shouldn't really keep two Firefish together in a small tank.  You can keep a pair in a tank say 100g or bigger.  The one will be fine alone.>
Thanks <No problem, again sorry about the loss.>
Rick <Phil>

Come on Baby Light My Firefish)
I recently bought a Firefish goby for my 12 gallon nano-reef. He's the only fish in there besides a scarlet hermit and a peppermint shrimp.
After acclimation the fish was doing fine, hanging outside all the time, feeds well and was so for about 2 days. One time the light was off and he was swimming about as I happened to walk by the tank, I guess he felt threatened and darted beneath the rocks...and I have not seen him out ever since. This has been for about 2 days as well. I'm afraid that he's too stressed out and wouldn't come out to feed anymore...Please help. Thanks in advance...
P.S. Grateful thanks to folks like you guys for the knowledge you provide which makes this hobby a much easier and fun thing to do...
<Firefish are often shy fish which prefer a calm environment. Some fish are known for hiding for weeks before they finally come out to feed. I would do some "night searches" and look for the fish. If you're unable to find him, you may want to take apart your rockwork to locate him. If the fish is alive, it should eventually come out. Continue to feed, although in smaller amounts, for the fact that the fish may still be alive. I've had a similar experience with a Royal Gramma. In this incident, the fish went missing for 9 days before he finally came out to eat. The fish has been doing fine ever since. I hope this helps.>
Take Care,
Graham
Wetwebmedia.com Crew 

Re: Firefish trouble,,,
Thanks for your input, but he died last night when I checked under the rock.
<I'm sorry to hear about your loss.>
I kinda expected that as he was gasping pretty heavily since the hiding began...I'm suspecting that I did not acclimate him too well and with too little time...I'll try another Firefish and see the difference with a much longer acclimation period...
By the way, is common household super glue ok for sticking corals unto rocks as far as toxicity goes? Please let me know...Thanks...
<Yes, most super glue is fine for gluing corals. Make sure that it contains Cyanoacrylate. Many of the super glue which doesn't contain Cyanoacrylate will not be safe in your aquarium. For gluing corals under water, I actually prefer superglue gel instead of the standard superglue. The gel is able to mount corals under the water.>
Graham Stephan

Re: Firefish trouble,,,
I've heard that calcium levels that are too high can be toxic to its inhabitants, especially fish. I do add liquefied calcium to the tank on a regular basis (to manufacturer's recommendations - 1 drop per gallon everyday) and I don't have a calcium test kit...Do you see a problem?
<Yes...I see a major problem. One of the most important pieces of information I've learned in this hobby is that you should always test for what you add. I cannot stress this enough. I would recommend you purchase a calcium and alkalinity test kit as soon as possible and test for these elements. From my experience, Salifert and LaMotte test kits are some of the most accurate kits.
Could this have killed my fish? Thanks for your input once again...
<I highly doubt so. If you did indeed have an extreme amount of calcium, you would most likely be seeing a calcium carbonate substance building up on your glass/rockwork. I'm thinking your fish died due to excessive amounts of stress rather than from water quality/acclimation.>
Take Care,
Graham Stephan

Goby Suicide?
My dart goby killed himself this morning. I got him on 02/09/2003 so he was almost a year old. The other day I notice he was stressed out lying on the bottom. I placed him in a refugium below the tank. A day later he seemed fine, so moved him back to the main tank. Everything seemed fine. He came out when I started feeding... but the tank needed more food so I put some more in. All of a sudden the dart Goby was in the corner digging wildly. The
dart goby stopped and fell half in and half out of the whole he had just dug. He dug his own grave. I don't get it. I removed him promptly to place him in the refugium again but he was dead with his mouth wide open.   Anyone else have a goby commit suicide. It was weird.
<I've seen this happen before to wrasses and other gobies. I'm not sure if it is a "phenomenon", or just a bunch of uncorrelated coincidences. When a fish dies suddenly, I'd always launch my own "investigation" as to the cause of death. Often, it can be traced to some specific incident, like a poisoning, lapse in stable tank chemistry, or pestering by another fish. Other times, the answer eludes us. All I can suggest is to eliminate the obvious stuff, then explore the exotic! The truth is out there...Regards, Scott F.>

Firefish In Peril?
Well, I have been treating my 2 clowns, two Chromis and Firefish for about two months now ever since they have had ich. I'm glad to say that the ich looks like it's gone with no new spots appearing and only a couple of spots left.
<Good to hear that>
Unfortunately, the Firefish, (who I regret quarantining to begin with because he never had ich) has stopped eating
and hides all day.
<As a not- quarantine is the right thing to do. No regrets, okay?>
I looked at him closely and on his side there is a reddish bruise forming. This really worries me because I love this fish. I immediately did a water change and I will do another one. I'm just
wondering what could have caused this and what should I do? Could it be the low salinity (1.009)?
<I doubt it. Could be anything from some sort of trauma to an internal problem of some sort>
I have had him in hyposalinity before and nothing happened. Also, what else can I do other than water changes? All five fish are in a ten gallon with hang-on filter and a protein skimmer. Should I treat with a medication, if so which one?
<At this point, we are not certain what we're dealing with here, so using medication is not a good idea>
Would acclimating him to a higher salinity within a few days and moving him back to the main tank help, or would it make the problem worse due to stress?
<If it were me, I'd start re-acclimating the fish back to normal specific gravity, and get him back into the display as soon as possible. I would think that this will help alleviate some stress.>
Thank you so much for your help.
<Glad to be of service! Regards, Scott F>

Sick Firefish-Or Funky Behavior?
My purple Firefish has been in Cupramine for nearly two weeks.  I treated it because it looked like it was flashing.  On occasion it would dive down, touch its belly on the bottom and then dart up.  It did this again today after 12 days of copper. Could this be something other than ich?  It never rubs its gills, always the underside.  Also, would it still be doing this after 12 days in copper?  I know that these fish bury themselves in the sand and I'm wondering if the behaviour I saw is normal.
<Good thought...I have seen similar behavior in Halichoeres species wrasses, and it can easily be mistaken for "scratching". If the fish is otherwise appearing healthy, without other symptoms commonly associated with ich or other parasitic diseases, then I'd back off the meds and observe the fish for a few more days. If all looks good, I'd repatriate him into his display tank>
If you think it is ich, after 14 days should I do a water change with display tank water and try formalin in a few weeks?
<May not be ich, as stated above. I'd opt for observation before another round of stressful medication.>
Many thanks, Peter
<My pleasure, Peter! Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

Firefish On The Mend!
Hi Scott / Crew
<Hi there!>
Thanks for your prompt reply.
<You're quite welcome!>
The Purple Firefish seems to be its normal self again. Heavy breathing is getting less obvious and it is also eating the fresh shrimp that we fed.
<Excellent to hear. as I always say, "A fish that eats is a fish that lives". It's true!>
I will continue to monitor.
<Good...Stay on top of things!>
Thanks.
Ai Kun
<My pleasure! Regards, Scott F>

Firefish Feeling Ill
Hi.
<Hey, Mike G with you this afternoon.>
I purchased a Firefish 11 days ago and have been keeping him in a QT since the moment I got him.
<Very good, QT is always the responsible way to go.>
Unfortunately, I noticed he had ich, so I brought the salinity down to 1.009 over the course of three days. He was eating for the first three days I had him but he has not eaten since then. A day or two after he stopped eating, I noticed his belly looked swollen. He was also acting lethargic.
<Those symptoms just cry out "Bacterial Infection!">
I waited a day to make sure I had an internal bacterial infection on my hands, something that is said to be common among fish with an immune system weakened by ich. His belly continued to enlarge during this time. I then went out and purchased Maracyn-Two and am now on the sixth day of the treatment. His belly is no longer swollen and he seems a bit more active.
<Wonderful! That is always good news!>
However, he's still not eating.
<Not-so-good news, but at least the swelling is gone.>
I've tried feeding him multiple kinds of shrimp, pellet food, and flake food but to no avail (I even soaked some of it in garlic). Do you think his lacking appetite is due to the hyposalinity and medication?
<I think that would be safe to assume.>
Is there anything else I can do or should I not be concerned about this? The quality of the water is very good\u2014No ammonia, nitrites, or nitrates, pH at 8.3. Another thing I've been noticing is his tendency to swim along the bottom of the tank. He will rarely swim out in the open and seems to prefer having his body grazing the bottom of the tank at all times. Is this normal swimming behavior or is it a sign of something? Thanks in advance!
<Well, I personally would continue with the medication, and try feeding him several times a day. Stay on top of your water changes, and keep the conditions right. I would also begin to raise the salinity once I was positive he was free of pathogens. Hopefully you will be rewarded with a wonderful and healthy Firefish! Good luck, Mike G>

Firefish
I haven't received a reply to the last two emails I've sent to you guys, but hopefully this one will get a response. My Firefish has been in QT for 25 days, 22 of those in hypo. I am currently in the process of raising the salinity to 35ppt. He had ich and an internal bacterial infection, both of which seem to be gone, thanks to the hypo and Maracyn-Two. I stopped the M2 treatment about a week and a half ago and added the carbon back into the filter. He hasn't eaten prepared foods in 22 days. I don't know what he's living off of, but occasionally I see him biting at the sand. He doesn't show any interest in the multiple kinds of food I've presented to him. Flake food, brine shrimp, Formula One pellets, raw shrimp, etc. All with and without garlic (I would try Mysis but I can't find any around here for the life of me). 
For the first couple days I had him, he was eating the flake food just fine. I feel as though I'm running out of options. Right now, I'm just trying to get him into my display as quickly as possible, hoping he might gain an appetite once he's in there (he has never been in my display; he went straight into the QT the moment I got him). He's getting skinnier and skinnier and it's really hard to watch and not know what else to do. I would really appreciate any help on what to do here. He's still swimming around the tank some, and he actually seems more active lately than he has been. Thanks in advance!
Heather
<Heather, I would try some frozen Cyclop-eeze.  There are not too many fish that will refuse this, small fish that is. Also might want to find some live adult brine and try that. <James (Salty Dog)>