QT Female Filamented Flasher Wrasses? – 04/04/09
I'll be receiving 3 female flasher wrasses to put in with the male I currently have.
<<Mmm, not the best “sequence” for stocking these fishes. Perhaps you can sequester the male until the females arrive and then place “all” at once?>>
I planned to hold them in QT at least 4 weeks
<<Not recommended in “my” opinion. These fishes are fairly disease resistant…but more importantly often suffer from such quarantine in my experience and warrant direct placement in the display>>
but just tonight read that if there is no male the dominant female will become the male and this can take place in as little as 10-14 days.
<<Perhaps a bit longer considering the confusion and stress of capture/transportation/quarantine in a bare tank…but still a possibility, yes>>
I was also told that wrasses don't need to be QT because of their slime coat.
<<Many are quite resistant to protozoan infection>>
Are either of those true?
<<To a degree, yes…but as stated, I think it is more important that with these fishes just the quarantine itself may prove more detrimental than beneficial. You can try a freshwater dip before introduction (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dips_baths.htm), but do watch the fish closely during>>
I still want to QT the fish but I don't want to have one become a male.
<<You have my thoughts re this process and these fishes>>
Thanks.
Debra
<<Happy to share… EricR>>

Re: QT Female Filamented Flasher Wrasses? Now Royal Gramma comp.  - 04/06/09
Thanks for the reply.
<<Quite welcome>>
The male was in QT for 4 weeks (not your typical QT... It was my 2 year old 20g that needed to be broken down with tons of live mysids) I didn't have to feed him for three days.
<<Ah…okay>>
Anyway, he was put in his new home Friday. My new issue is my Royal Gramma.
<<Oh?>>
I currently have the tank now divided in half via eggcrate & 1/4" casting net. Will the gramma accept his new tankmates over time?
<<Mmm, as the “established” fish here…you likely will have to remove it until the Flasher Wrasses have settled in and acclimated to the new system>>
If so, about how long would the divider need to be kept in place?
<<It is best to remove the Basslet altogether for a time to disorient it/provide the upper hand to the Wrasses upon its return>>
He seems to be showing less aggression today. Only if absolutely necessary I can move him to my frag tank.
<<It is up to you… You can try the divider…but I would be more inclined to move the fish for a while, for the benefit of the Flashers>>
I have a catch net resting on the Monti cap for him to get used to should I need to try and catch him.
<<Excellent>>
The females are supposed to be shipped today so they'll be here tomorrow.
<<Though less of a risk than the Basslet, do keep an eye out for excessive aggression towards the females from the male (being first in the tank)>>
Oh and rearranging the tank won't work. His fave spot is the 10x10 Monti cap attached to a large rock - not an easy piece to rearrange.
<<Agreed…temporary relocation of the Royal Gramma is best here I think>>
Thanks again!!!
<<Good luck with your Flasher Wrasses…wonderful little fish! EricR>>

Filamented Flasher Wrasses follow-up – 04/12/09
I had ordered three female flasher wrasses to join my male and the shippers held them an extra week until they felt they were ready for shipping. In the meantime I moved the royal gramma the day before their arrival to another one of my tanks and he's doing well. Absolutely the best decision as the gramma owned my large Monti cap, slept there and swam in and out of all the holes... the wrasses have now taken it over. Before moving the gramma the male wrasse was out and about occasionally with a divider separating him and the gramma but still stayed hidden 90% of the time.
<Submissive>
The females arrived early Friday morning and after a lengthy acclimation (4 hours) were put directly into the tank. The only other fish in there now was the male wrasse. The three females dove right into the huge Monti cap and hid. Even with the females hiding, within 5 minutes the male was out and hovering over the Monti cap darting in and out. Within 20 minutes the male and dominant female were hovering together over the Monti cap.
<Ahh!>
I saw him more yesterday after the females were in the tank than I have the whole six weeks I've had him. What a huge difference in his behavior... their interaction as a group is fascinating. I have a Vortech that they love to face into the outflow above the Monti.
<Very nice>
After another couple hours I decided to try feeding and had frozen mysis and Rod's food soaking in Selcon. As soon as the food hit the water the male and two of the three females were scooping it up and wanting more. I fed them 3 more times throughout the day. The remaining female who looked more stressed than the other two during acclimation remained hidden. I kept the lights on actinics only all day.
<Good>
I made a tank cover using 1/4" monofilament casting net because during the male's stay in a holding tank the male was always jumping (just because he could) and kept hitting the acrylic cover on that tank. 1/4" black nylon casting net covers the Vortech.
For the slower to recover female Is there anything else I can do to help her through this?
<Mmm, possibly add/try some live foods, otherwise, nothing else I would do>
I'm running eight T5 HOs in the tank, no Halide, and was thinking of keeping the lighting subdued again today running only half of the lights.
I hope some of this is helpful to others thinking about getting flasher wrasses.
Thank you,
Debra
<And you. Bob Fenner>

Female Flasher Wrasse ID - 4/13/09 Hi All, <Hi Debra, Mich with you today.> You've answered many questions and have been very helpful regarding my 3 new females and single male filamented flasher wrasses. <Ahh, glad to hear.> I wanted to verify something. I continue to read about them to learn more and last night I read the females do not have the long dorsal spines. However, one of the females appears to have them. <Fishbase.org says females can have slightly prolonged dorsal fins. More here: http://www.fishbase.org/Summary/speciesSummary.php?ID=4844&genusname=Paracheilinus&speciesname=filamentosus > When they first arrived I was very concerned and contacted the shipper with a picture. I was assured it was definitely a female but the dominant female. I simply want a second opinion in light of what I've recently read. <Does sound like it is possible that it is a female.> I apologize for the photo but this was during acclimation and in very subdued lighting. <Yes, is not the easiest to make out.> If you look closely, you can see the one in the back has what appears to be a few longer dorsal spines. <I see.> Thank you again. <Welcome.> Debra Piedra <Mich>

Stocking…Flasher Wrasses & Fathead Anthias – 04/09/09
Hello All,
<<Hiya Tricia>>
I have been reviewing the posted emails, but I'm finding a little conflicting information regarding appropriate tank size for a flasher wrasse harem and a fathead anthias.
<<Mmm, yes…much can be put to personal opinion/experience. I have kept both fishes, and in the same tank, so I’m happy to proffer mine>>
There are some posts that say neither should be housed in a tank smaller than 100 gallons.
<<Bigger IS better…but much also depends on the total stocking densities and other species present>>
However there are other posts that indicate that 55 gallons would work for 3 flasher wrasses (1 male/2 female) and 37 gallons is enough for the fathead.
<<Again, it depends on whether other fishes will be introduced… But most hobbyists can’t ignore the impulse to add more fishes…So, a 75g should probably be considered “minimum”>>
I would like to keep the following in a 46 gallon (3ft long, 21 inches tall and 16 inches wide):
1 Firefish (Nemateleotris sp.)
1 fathead anthias (Serranocirrhitus latus)
3 flasher wrasses (Paracheilinus sp.)
2 cleaner shrimp
A few assorted mushrooms
Live rock & macro algae
Would this stocking level and this introduction order work?
<<The bio-level is not out of bounds here, it is the species selection that is cause for concern I think. The Flasher Wrasses will need to establish a territory with a bit of “room”…preferably a rock outcrop that extends toward the surface but with enough room overhead for the male to display or “flash.” The Fathead Anthias will need a cave or overhang to allow it to get away from the light. And the Firefish will also require a “bolt-hole” to feel secure and allow it to feed properly. I just don’t think a 3ft tank is adequate here/for this species selection. Otherwise, as for the order of introduction, I would add the Anthias last to preclude any problems re it and the sometimes twitchy Flasher Wrasses>>
Also, am I correct to assume that I am maxing out my bioload, or could I add another fish-- say a clown goby (Gobiodon sp.) or a Meiacanthus blenny?
<<If you go forward with this plan, I would certainly be hesitant to add any other fishes>>
Thank you very much for your time-
Tricia
<<Happy to share… EricR>>

Re: Stocking…Flasher Wrasses & Fathead Anthias – 04/12/09
Eric,
<<Hiya Tricia…my apologies for the delay>>
Thank you so much for your quick response!
<<Oh well, guess I blew that here [grin]… Quite welcome>>
From reading your email, I think in my attempt to please all these fish in my aquascaping I'm pleasing no one.
<<Happens all the time… We so often try to “fit” everything we like/want in a single system…and often to the detriment of all>>
About half of my tank is rock that goes a few inches from the top in the back with several big overhangs, further shielded with a stand of macro algae. The next little more than a quarter of the tank is sand/crushed coral with live rock rubble. The final part of the tank is a pile of rock with an overhang at the bottom and another small stand of macro algae to make the overhang dark.
<<I see…>>
From an aesthetic point of view the tank looks great, but it sounds like there isn't enough space.
<<Another common issue, in my opinion. We hobbyists have been conditioned to cram all the live rock we can in to our tanks (the ubiquitous “rock wall”) for the beneficial bio-filtration provided re. But with sensible stocking/maintenance and the use of ancillary filtration/vessels to hold more rock if needed, a much more pleasing display can be had with less rock and more room for fishes to swim and develop and for corals to grow>>
Which (the fathead or the flasher wrasses) would be happiest in this much space with this aquascaping?
<<I have seen single specimens of Serranocirrhitus latus do quite well in similarly sized and aquascaped systems as you describe. Though be aware these systems were also very lightly stocked with other piscine inhabitants (no more than a few other “small” fishes). I think this fish would indeed be the better choice over the harem of Flasher Wrasses for this 46g tank>>
Also, would the Firefish benefit from a pre-made PVC bolt hole, or will the rubble be enough?
<<If there is a small cave or pile of rock with a couple means of access, the Firefish should be fine>>
Thank you again!
Tricia
<<A pleasure to assist… Eric R>>

R2: Stocking…Flasher Wrasses & Fathead Anthias – 04/13/09
Eric,
<<Tricia>>
The anthias it is then.
<<Ah good…the better choice here I think. Do provide two or more feedings a day of small frozen meaty foods (Mysis, Plankton, Glass Worms, Cyclops-Eeze, etc)….all thawed before feeding of course [grin]. And do also try the small (1mm) New Life Spectrum pellets…a very palatable and very nutritious food for all your fishes>>
Thank you so much for your help!
Tricia
<<Always a pleasure… Eric Russell>>

McCosker Flasher Wrasse 03/26/09
Hey Crew,
<Jonathan>
I recently added a male McCosker wrasse to my 29 gallon tank after quarantining it for 4 weeks. The wrasse peacefully shares the tank with a pair of ocellaris clowns living in a RBTA.
<Jon... No! This animal is NOT compatible, suitable for this setting>
I read somewhere that the McCosker will lose its color because there are no females or males to "show off" to. Is this true?
<Won't live long enough for you to appreciate>
That same site said it's ok to keep two males, but different species i.e Carpenter and McCosker in the same tank so they will "flash" each other and keep their color intense.
<... no>
Can I keep two male flasher wrasses of different species in my tank w/o them tearing each other apart? I prefer not to keep a female wrasse because the male wrasse looks better; sorry, that sounded very selfish, but I had no other way of putting it =) .  I also plan to add a yasha goby/pistol shrimp in the near future, do you foresee any problems?
<... Please don't write us, w/o reading what is archived on WWM ahead of time. This won't work either>
Thanks!
<B>

Stocking My New Baby!! (Mixing Flasher Wrasse Species in a 300g Tank) – 03/07/09
Hello all at the WWM site!
<<Hey Erik! Tis Eric here…>>
Now I have to start off by saying all of you here are providing an invaluable resource and deserve a huge pat on the back!
<<Thanks dude!>>
But I digress :D....Well you see I will soon be upgrading from a modest 30 gallon saltwater aquarium to my dream aquarium of 300 gallons!
<<Wow, quite a jump…congrats. I myself went from an 80g reef display to a 375g reef display about 5 ½ years ago>>
As you can guess I'm in a surreal state and can't wait to get this puppy going.
<<Been there…done that…seen the video… (as the saying goes). And let me impress upon you to slow down, take your time, and research your equipment and installation to the fullest>>
So I am going to make sure I do this right, so I wanted to know if a sump filtration system will also act as a refugium for Mysid shrimp as well as copepods.
<<Indeed it can/will… But I prefer separate vessels (and the bigger the better) for such to ease control of differing water flow rates and lighting levels betwixt the two>>
Just another quick question I plan on having a harem of Paracheilinus Cyanus, Paracheilinus Filamentosus, Paracheilinus Mccoskeri, or maybe a mix of the three? Would that be possible?
<<Some may tell you it is possible to intermix species in a tank of this size, I recommend you pick a single species to focus on. Even 300-gallons is NOT AS BIG as you think it is re flexibility in fish stocking>>
As they are gorgeous fish and I would love to wake up to those beautiful colors every morning!
<<Many a fishes’ demise can be traced to a misguided hobbyist’s sense of aesthetics. I’m not saying it’s wrong to try; and it’s certainly not impossible, to create a breathtaking display…just be smart about how you go about it. Choose a “central” species for your display and then build the system/select tankmates around this species needs. Some effort (and self control) on your part now can save you and all your fishes much trouble down the road>>
Well my real question was; are any of these species less inclined to attack cleaner shrimp?
<<None that you mention should be a problem…just be sure not to add any new shrimp additions by “dropping them in the tank like food”>>
I have two and was hoping when they became a mated pair to use their newborns as a snack every couple of weeks or so?
<<Ah yes…your fishes will much appreciate such spawnings/hatchings (and are quite interesting to watch, too!)>>
Thanks in advance for any help and advice you can supply.
<<I do hope I have been of some assistance>>
And best wishes and regards to you and the rest of the WWM crew, you are all doing an inspiring job!!!
<<Many thanks for the kind words, mate>>
Best regards,
Erik
<<Cheers, Eric Russell>>

Re: Stocking My New Baby!! (Mixing Flasher Wrasse Species in a 300g Tank) – 03/09/09
Well thanks for the advice and the quick response Eric!
<<You’re quite welcome, Erik>>
And don't worry I plan on taking my sweet time with this tank.
<<Is best>>
As I know all too well the consequences of trying to rush anything in this hobby. And I don't plan on adding any life forms whatsoever until I have at least a 3 inch sand bed and my desired amount of live rock, and fully stocked refugium.
<<Indeed… And letting the tank run for a few months sans macro-predators will help many beneficial organisms to flourish (given the have something to eat themselves…e.g. – toss in a few shrimp pellets every few days) and attain sustainable populations>>
By the way how many lbs of rock would you recommend for the Paracheilinus attenuatus?
<<This can be hard to judge… I recommend using less rock than many others might recommend (especially those “selling” the rock). Less rock in the tank not only gives fishes more room to swim and corals more room to grow…but has a nicer look, in my opinion. You still need to provide adequate bio-filtration (the DSB will also help with this), and you need to provide adequate hiding/sleeping places for all your fish…so…the quantity of rock will depend on species selection and stocking density…as well as the quality of the rock and/or the availability of ancillary vessels for holding a supplemental supply. But to address your question more directly…. As a start, use enough rock to build two bommies/rock piles along the centerline of the tank and spaced irregularly from the ends, and go from there>>
:) Yes, I will definitely be taking your advice on revolving the tank around one particular fish!
<<I think you/your fish will be happier and healthier for this>>
Which I always wanted to try but in a 30 gallon it kind of limited me so I never got the chance. Also about those little scarlet cleaners of mine. I added them to my 30 gallon simultaneously and just wanted to know how long do you think it will be before they "get together"?
<<If they are going to…they probably already have. Though I believe spawnings are more likely with Lysmata amboinensis than with Lysmata debelius >>
Best regards thanks for the continued advice.
Erik
<<Happy to share. EricR>>

R2: Stocking My New Baby!! (Mixing Flasher Wrasse Species in a 300g Tank) – 03/11/09
Alright, well once again thanks for the quick response Eric!
<<Quite welcome Erik!>>
I must admit the whole same name thing gives me a little laugh.
<<Hee-hee…indeed! But at least the spelling is different so we can keep up with who is talking to whom [grin]>>
Anyways...just a little update.
<<Okey-dokey>>
It seems that the 300 gallon may not be coming so soon the salesman just informed us that the stand does not come with the tank!!
<<Mmm, not unusual with such large tanks in my experience…>>
So we are going to put it on hold till we can find someone to make it for us.
<<Okay… It really is not difficult to do yourself if you have some basic carpentry skills, depending on how “ornate” you want it to be>>
So meanwhile I figure may as well use my 30 gallon to raise some corals so I won’t need to buy such small corals for such a big tank.
<<Indeed>>
Oh and I thought you might like to know that my cleaner shrimp are indeed a mated pair!!
<<Excellent!>>
I saw fresh eggs under her this evening!!! So I guess it doesn't take that long after all!!
<<Nope…a short lifespan (I’ve heard estimates of 2-3 years) means they can’t wait around too long>>
Under the right circumstances of course?
<<Which in the case of these hermaphroditic creatures pretty much means just getting any two together in a healthy system>>
Such as peaceful tankmates, good water parameters, and some good ol fashion hope!
<<Ah!...yes>
I also had one more question:).
<<Okay>>
You see for a while after the lights went out these very tiny snails would appear out of the rocks and feed I assume?
<<Likely so, yes>>
You see well they seemed to have undergone a population explosion and cover my sand bed.. Even during the day!!? So I was wondering if you could give me an idea as to what they are.
<<Dunno… Maybe you could provide a picture (close-up…good resolution…no more than a few hundred KB is size)>>
They are all tiny, about 1 cm or 2?
<<I wouldn’t consider this as “tiny.” Perhaps you meant mm vs. cm>>
Also if you know what they might be do you know what may feed on them?
<<Likely any small wrasse species…particularly from the genus Halichoeres…though not in a 30g tank. A Macropharyngodon spp or Pseudocheilinus spp would also likely be certain to take care of the snails (assuming they really are “tiny”), but the former is too difficult for most hobbyists to keep, and the latter is just too mean for small tanks…and like the Halichoeres species, all need larger quarters for continued good health>>
Maybe a mandarin?
<<Not likely, no…and also needs much more tank than the 30g>>
Not that I would buy one, I know my tank is much too small and I would never condemn a fish like that to such a horrible fate.
<<Very good to know>>
But I'm sure it would probably eat them. Maybe?
<<I’m going to err on the side of caution and say, no>>
So once again thanks for any advice.
<<Unless these snails are destructive to your other life I would just leave them be. It is very likely they will wane on their own>>
Best regards,
Erik
<<Be chatting… Eric Russell>>

Flasher Wrasse Additions – 02/24/09
Hello Crew,
<<Hiya Michele>>
Thanks as always for the invaluable advice.
<<We are happy to provide…>>
On a side note, I totally agree with the grammar requirements!
<<Ah…excellent!>>
We have a 250 gallon reef with 200 pounds live rock, SPS/LPS, 3 tangs, Sargassum triggerfish, a pair of
Clarkii clowns, harem of McCosker’s Flasher wrasses, and a pair of mated mandarin dragonets. The fish have always been very peaceful even at feeding time and they "hang out" together. The tank has a 'fuge, sump, and coral frag tank plumbed in making the total volume around 600 gallons.
<<Very nice>>
We purchased the wrasse (one male and four females) six plus months ago and quarantined them in a 90 gallon with live rock, but no other fish for several months.
<<Mmm, why so long I wonder… These fish actually don’t often “quarantine” well…and are one of the exceptions to the rule in my opinion. Better to acclimate and add directly to the display>>
After a few weeks in quarantine, one of the female wrasse disappeared.
<<Did you check the floor? Likely a jumper>>
About one month after we had moved the harem to the main tank, we were shocked to find the missing female wrasse in the 90 gallon!
<<Hee-hee! Hiding, eh>>
We have no idea if she had made it into the 'fuge or sump and somehow made it back out (overflows are covered with mesh)
<<Nope>>
or if she had been hiding in the rock for all that time.
<<Yep…and my guess this is the “most subordinate” of the females>>>>
We were so excited and moved her to the main tank....big mistake! She dove into the live rock to hide and we never saw her again.
<<Hmm…>>
Then, we found another female wrasse with a tattered tail. Eventually, she disappeared leaving us with 1 male and 2 female wrasse. We assumed we should not have added the single wrasse to an established harem and a fight had occurred.
<<Best to “add” together, yes… But it may also be that these two females were just too weak (both physiologically and psychologically) to survive the aggressive attentions of the other members of the harem in this volume of water/with this number of members>>
Now, maybe three months later, our male mandarin has disappeared.
<<All too common>>
He was fat, the pair were spawning, and we added home cultured copepods to the main tank. Plus, we have the in-line fuge and plenty of live rock. I don't think lack of food was an issue.
<<Hmm…it still could be a nutritional issue…or perhaps you have an unwelcome guest>>
As my husband was pulling rock out looking for the mandarin, he found a surprise hitch hiker in the live rock....a large crab with a 1.5 inch carapace and huge claws!
<<Yikes!>>
He removed the crab to the copepod culture tank and now we are wondering if this is the reason for the missing wrasse.
<<Is one possibility>>
So finally on to the question....can we add more female wrasse to our established harem?
<<Under differing circumstances I would say yes, add another “three” females. But the problem I have here are the tankmates. The wrasses do best in a “peaceful” environment with other small and peaceful fishes. The activity of the three Tangs, and aggression from the Clownfish, are stressful to the Flasher Wrasses. This stress may also contribute to more aggressive behavior among the wrasses themselves. It’s up to you, but as with corals/inverts, you can’t always keep “everything” you want in the same tank and have all go well for the long term…it would be best to decide on a central theme or species, and then stock accordingly>>
Are we asking for a fight or can we assume the crab snatched the two wrasse and now the mandarin?
<<The crab may be the culprit…but that’s not all that was/is going against your success here>>
If we add to the harem, is one ok or do we need to add multiples?
<<A minimum of three…to spread aggression/to have any chance against those already established>>
Thanks for any thoughts!
<<The Flasher and Fairy Wrasses are exquisite little fishes…but long term success really does require a system designed/tailored to their needs>>
Oh, water parameters to be complete: ammonia/nitrite/nitrate: 0, specific gravity: 1.025, temperature:
79/80, pH: 8.2, calcium: 400 ppm, alkalinity: 2.5 mEq/L, magnesium: 1250 ppm and ORP: 250 mV (low, but perhaps that's a question for another e-mail!).
Michele
<<Regards, Eric Russell>>

Re: Flasher Wrasse Additions - 02/24/09
EricR,
<<Hello Michele>>
Thanks for the reply!
<<Quite welcome>>
We quarantined the flashers because we are so paranoid about introducing disease to the display.
<<Indeed… But there are species/circumstances where disease is less of a risk and/or the quarantine is more detrimental to the new additions>>
We thought since we had a well established 90 gallon sitting fallow waiting for us to decide on a stocking plan, we would use it to be safe.
<<In retrospect…aside from a dearth of natural food organisms vs. your well supplied display system, the wrasses were probably fine as the sole occupants of such a “large” quarantine tank. Certainly more so than the usual 10-20 gallon vessels usually dedicated to such use>>
The 250 gallon tank is surprisingly peaceful, although the tangs are definitely active.
<<Yes… They likely pay little if any attention to the Flashers…but their size and exited behavior can still prove stressful re in the confines of an aquarium…even a 250g aquarium>>
We will follow your advice and leave the flashers at the current three.
<<Probably best>>
We were most distressed at the loss of the mandarin....had been in the tank for a long time and the spawning behavior between the male and female was most interesting.
<<Considering the size of the tank and your experience thus far with this species, I see no reason not to try to introduce a new male>>
Thanks again for the advice.
Michele
<<Happy to share. Eric Russell>>

Can I Add Juvenile Flasher Wrasses with Existing Male To Create a Harem? – 02/06/08
Hi,
<<Hello>>
I have had a male Paracheilinus octotaenia wrasse - eight lined fairy wrasse
<<Is actually considered a “Flasher” wrasse. Do see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/paracheilinus.htm>>
- 3 1/2 inches - for 3 years -he's mostly been wonderful but sometimes seems a bit stressed.
<<Indeed, these wrasses do much better in haremic groupings. Frankly, I’m surprised this one has survived on its own for three years>>
I've been thinking of getting him some females for a while.
<<A good move>>
I also have a Foxface rabbit, 2 percula clowns, 2 blue-green chromis, 1 black cap basslet, 1 mandarin dragonet, 1 kole tang and 1 navarchus angel. I have a 110 gal reef tank with a 30 gal sump/refugium; it is designed with plenty of swim room and caves.
<<Mmm, I see… Though pretty much “filled-up,” I think a couple female P. octotaenia would still be a good addition>>
Here's my question: I would like to add 2 female wrasses for my male. It is difficult to find these fish
<<Likely due to their geographic distribution (Western Indian Ocean and the Red Sea)>>
but I just saw 2 juveniles (2 inches) available!
<<Excellent!>>
I've been reading about adding and I've seen very different advice....
1) Take my wrasse out and add them all together (... but there is no way I can catch him!)
<<Not necessary, in “my” opinion>>
2) Add larger wrasses (my male is pretty big...I've never seen females for sale that are larger)
<<Indeed…not plausible/possible in this instance. And again in my opinion, it’s best to introduce smaller “subordinate” individuals anyway>>
3) It should be fine...
<<Well, I guess that depends on your definition of “fine.” There will be some initial posturing by the male…as well as some “herding around” just to show the newcomers who is boss (and not gently)…but yes, things will settle down after a bit and all should be “fine.” On a very positive note…the addition of the females should result in improved social interaction/health/vigor/color of this male>>
Etc, etc.
So, after reading and reading some more, I am confused and coming to you...
<<For more opinions? [grin] >>
Would you recommend adding 2 juveniles, planning that they will grow into females, into this tank with my male to make his harem?
<<I would… And just to note, these fish are protogynous hermaphrodites…they all “start out” as females>>
…or do you think that it is just too risky?
<<Not at all>>
Thank you very much for your time and expertise,
Beverly Ash
<<I hope this proves helpful. Eric Russell>>

Flasher Wrasse Stocking Question... Too Many Wrasses 12/05/2007
Good Evening,
<Good evening Jonathan, Mich here.>
After reading all of the information about the Flasher wrasse(*Paracheilinus)* species I am left looking for an opinion for stocking my specific tank. I have a 28 gallon Nano-cube (if you are not familiar with the line there is roughly 25g of swimming space with another 3 gals partitioned in the back for filtration and skimming. My tank has been cycled for almost 4 weeks and I just added a small mushroom colony and Zoa colony over the last week. These are already starting to grow larger. The tank also contains 3 species of snail (about 24 total),
<Hopefully 3 species with different diets. other wise I'd worry about starvation.>
a dozen hermits,
<Not a fan.>
and a pair of cleaner shrimp.
<Like these!>
In a few more weeks I will be ready for fish (assuming my tests stay good) and I have been very excited about stocking this tank with Flasher wrasses since before I even purchased the tank.
<The plural form you use here concerns me.>
Your site has provided the most amount of info from the web that I have been able to find to date, so thank-you very much for that!
<There is much here. I'm glad you have found it helpful!>
Now for the actual question:
<OK!>
Will 25gal be sufficient to stock this tank with a trio of *P. mccoskeri *(1 male, 2 female)?
<I would not do this. Generally this should not be done in a tank of less than 100 gallons.>
If not would the *P. attenuatus* be a better choice?
<No, your tank is much too small to house three wrasses. It is questionable if it is big enough for just one.>
Long term the plan is to also have a clown goby (haven't settled on a specific one yet)
<OK. But I would only recommend one wrasse and possibly this goby in a small setting.>
and possibly another interesting invert, along with several more corals.
<Need to be careful here with the potential for allelopathy.>
I appreciate your time and dedication to this "hobby"
<On behalf of Bob and the rest of the crew, we thank you for your kind words. Mich>
-Jonathan

Three questions (worms, wormfish, not-so-wormy wrasses)
Bob-
It's been over 2 years since I've picked your brain, so I'm going to indulge with 3 questions:
1) I just bought a "Trap-em" bristleworm trap for my nanoreef, b/c of my first ever infestation after 3 years. When I checked at midnight, it was full of worms; in the morning it was empty. Do you have any suggested mod.s to contain them?
<These are posted in FAQs files on WetWebMedia.com under Polychaete, Bristleworms...>
2) I can't find any info on the Curious Wormfish I put in my main tank except for the Fishbase info. It stays hidden under the crushed coral 90% of the time and seems to come out at night. No one picks on him.
<They do hide... generally more than this!>
3) Is it crucial that filament wrasses be kept in m/f pairs? I've got a small female that seems to be doing fine.
<Not crucial... males look, behave "better" in the presence of females... Bob Fenner>
Thanks,
Steve

I want the wrasse, but not the cyanide
>Hi to all,
>>Well HELLO Bry!  Fancy meetin' you here.  ;)
>I haven't asked any questions for a while as I have been busy redesigning my tank and getting it set up.  It has now been running for about 3-4 months this time around.  I have a 55 gal corner bow, 20 gal sump 15-20 X turnover rate, 60 lbs of liverock, 4" DSB, and quite a few snails, blue leg hermit crabs, tons of bristle worms, brittle stars and various pods.
>>I remember from your post on RDO.
>I decided on the list of fish to keep before I set up the tank, and conferred with several of you on different choices.
Here is the list that was decided on:
3 Carpenter Flasher Wrasses (2 female and 1 male)
2 PJ Cardinals
1 Fire Goby
1 Pearlscale Butterflyfish
1 Longnose Hawkfish
They were to be added in that order, with a minimum of a month quarantine.
>>Sounds pretty good to me.  But, I've become particular to Banggai cards, myself.
>Now for my problem.  The Carpenter Flasher Wrasses are hard to find.  
>>Oh yes they are!  But GORGEOUS.
>I have also heard a little bit of rumor that they are being caught with cyanide.  So, I am wondering,   
>1.. Have any of you heard of a company that has Carpenters that are guaranteed to not be caught with cyanide?
>2.. If not, is there any way to tell by looking at a live specimen if it was in fact captured using those means?  I have not read of any kind of test that can be done by the time the end user (me) receives the fish, but I was wondering what your thoughts on this are.
>>Well, IIRC, Budhaboy suggested going with Mary Middlebrook.  Matt Wandell, as well as NKT (sorry, don't know his real name) seem to know of where to find the "hard to find" fishes, and the only places I know of are wholesale ONLY. (Sea Dwelling Creatures would be the first place I'd look, but they will not sell to you, and I've seen them at Quality Marine as well.)  Have you Googled?  Now, let's see if we can sort out whether or not cyanide caught.  The issue is that the only test I know of requires the fish to be killed.  Beyond that, we look to point of origin: Paracheilinus carpenteri hails from the Indo-Pacific, so we could surmise that there's a good chance that, even if not actually caught with cyanide, they may have been exposed.  Check this link on http://www.fishbase.org (bookmark that!) http://www.fishbase.org/Summary/SpeciesSummary.cfm?ID=4843&genusname=Paracheilinus&speciesname=carpenteri
>3.. If I can't find this fish, could you suggest a replacement that would go good with the other fish in my list?  Thanks once again for your time and a great website.  Bryan Flanigan
>>Digging in my memory banks here, I recollect something called a "mystery wrasse" (our own JasonC has a very nice--and hard to come by--specimen), there are also picture wrasses, as well as other fairy wrasses.  If you go for Red Sea animals you'll be more certain to avoid the cyanide issue, as well as with Australian animals.  If you see that an animal hails from Indonesia or the Philippines, you might be concerned with cyanide exposure.  IIRC, it's not as widespread in Fiji or Bali, two other areas to consider.  I don't know if there's a wrasse site quite as dedicated as that Japanese goby site (that site is da bomb), but it's worth a Google, eh?  Do feel free to contact Mary at http://www.seacrop.com because even if she can't supply you with the fish, she knows at least as well as anyone I can think of what the chances are of being able to determine whether or not an animal's been exposed.  Talk to you soon!  Marina

Flasher Wrasses
Hi All,
<Tyler>
I am the new owner of a 55 gallon tank. I'm planning to make this into another reef tank. I absolutely love Flasher Wrasses. Would four (1 male, three females) be too much for a 55? If this sounds right, would I be at my maximum for fish? Thanks. 
<Mmm, I would try just a trio, one male... with lots of live rock... some other fishes might fit in... as long as they aren't too large, aggressive. Bob Fenner>

Re: Flasher Wrasses
Thanks for the quick response! After the tank is cycled, should I add one at a time, or should I add the females first, followed by the male later? 
<The second process is best. Bob Fenner>

Pass on The Wrasse? (Fairy Wrasse Selection)... a much better answer
Dear Bob (or crew),
<Scott F. your Crew Member today!>
I have been looking through the site for info on Carpenter Flasher wrasses, but some of my questions I did not find answers to.  I've been looking at one that is at one of my  local fish stores but they only have one fish, 1) Are they ok to be kept single?
<While they can be kept as solitary specimens, they are far happier and will behave more "naturally" (if there is such a thing in captivity!) when kept in smaller groups of one male to several females. You might see some of the "flashing" behaviors for which they are known. In my opinion, keeping more than one male in a smaller tank is not advised, however.>
2) What do they eat?
<They will generally eat meaty foods, such as Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp (noticed I said "enriched"?), and some of the prepared "Formula" foods.>
I have a Trigger, Coral Beauty Angel, 2 Perculas, Orchid Dottyback, and a Spotted Hawkfish.  3) Will the wrasse be compatible? 
<Well, the fish can work in such a community setup, provided that your tank is large enough, plenty of hiding spaces provided, and if the Trigger doesn't harass him too much...>
And what I have read on the site makes me think that this is not an easy fish to keep.  4) Are its chances of surviving low enough to not try the fish? 
<Well, Fairy Wrasses run the gamut from quite hardy to very touchy. This fish, in my experience, seems to fall somewhere in between. If it was collected carefully, handled well along the chain of custody from reef to your LFS, and if the fish is quarantined and eating, your chances are excellent for success.>
Sorry for so many questions, but I was amazed by the fish when I saw it, but I don't buy anything without researching on your site
Thanks a lot. Mike
<We appreciate the confidence in our advice, Mike! However, do get some opinions from fellow hobbyists who have also kept the fish, and do consult the writings of authors such as Scott Michael and Rudy Kuiter, who have written extensively on this group of fishes over the years. Take all advice (even ours!) with a grain of thought, and make your decisions accordingly! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>

- Fairy Wrasse and Clown Gobies -
Hey Bob
<Actually, JasonC today...>
You will not remember me but you answered many of my questions back when you were working with the now defunct flyingfishexpress.com folks. <Seems like a long time ago.> Thanks for all that info, it helped me a lot.
I'm putting together a new system, a basic reef with a RBT anemone and 2 Percs (had them for years) under MH lights. The tank is a 110 gal, 30 high, 48 long, 18 back to front with a massive skimmer (Euro-Reef CS8-2), 20 gal refugium with 6 inch DSB, 35 gal total in sump.   There will be 4 Maxi-jets hooked to a wave-maker/controller, and I have not decided on the size of the Maxi-jets.  There will be corals in the tank, however the focus is going to be on flasher and fairy wrasse.  
If I do my home work, and pick the wrasse for size and color to offset aggression, how many individuals could my system hold? <I wouldn't go nuts with fairy wrasses - even though they aren't typically aggressive fish, mixing more than two species in your tank might lead to trouble. You could do male/female pairs of each.> Also, are the various clown gobies (Gobiodon sp) able to live with fairy wrasse? <Sure.>
Thanks for the help!
Rich
<Cheers, J -- >

Flasher wrasses 8/14/05
Dear Crew,
<Michael>
I have always had an eye for flasher wrasse.  I love their color and shape.  I have a 55G peaceful FOWLR.  I want to get a mated pair.
<Mmm, no such thing really>
  I have seen Paracheilinus carpenteri in a local store and just stared at it for an hour.  That was the fish I planned to add to my tank, however after reading the article, Flasher Wrasses, the Genus on your site, I like the looks of Paracheilinus flavianalis and Paracheilinus rubricaudalis (what is their max size in an aquarium).
<A couple, three inches...>
  Which of these three species would be best to have in my tank, or are they about equal.
<The latter... much depends on previous care, capture, handling...>
  I don't see the latter two species in any local stores, so I'm thinking I may have to go with the Carpenter's Flasher Wrasse.  Do the colors vary between fish?
<Yes... considerably... take a look at the pix of fishbase.org, Google Images...>
The two that are shown in that article are not as pink and showy as the one I saw in the store.  Is this different fish from different seas, or do these fish change color as they mature?
<Both location, time, care...>
Thank you for any personal preference and insight into these fish you can provide!
Mike
<Keep good notes, please! Bob Fenner>