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FAQs about Marine Fishes Behavior
Related Articles: Marine Fishes,
Related FAQs: Marine Fishes 1,
Marine Fishes 2, & FAQs on Marine: Fish
Identification, Fish Compatibility,
Fish Selection, Fish Systems,
Fish Feeding, Fish Disease,
Fish Reproduction, See also, the
many other Behavioral FAQs files by organism, group in the Indices. | 
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confused... SW Fish beh. 8/21/09
Good morning !
<And you>
? I'm writing because I'm confused with almost everything that's going
on with my tank. First of all, I have a clarkii clown that is hosting a
CONDY anemone, which everyone I've spoken with has never ever heard of
any clown
hosting a Condy.
<Can/does happen... not in the wild of course>
And yes, it is a Condy, no a long tent. was wondering if you've ever
heard of this? My other clarkii is hosting a carpet anemone,
<Actually vice versa>
which isn't shocking at all. My second question; why in the world does
my sergeant major damsel clean my yellow tang?
<Happens as well>
I've never ever heard of this before either. And lastly, I have a
lawnmower blenny that eats any shrimp or pretty much anything I put in
the tank, including other fish that fits in his mouth ?
<Yes>
It's like I read and study on everything, and everything does the
complete opposite in my tank.
Thanks a bunch, Angel
<Welcome to the world! Bob Fenner>
Marine animal life expectancy 5/12/09
Do you know of a text or website that provides information on life
expectancies for various marine animals? Obviously, the more inclusive
the better. I do understand that with many animals we do not know how
old the animal may be when it comes to our care, but the only info I
have been able to find is bits and pieces you have to hunt for, and much
of it is on the on-line retail sites so it's reliability must be
questioned.
<Mmm, as with humans, environment, diet, etc will have much to do with
life expectancy of marine animals and life expectancy would be difficult
to determine in that regard. Likely, the most information on fish can be
obtained at www.fishbase.org. For invertebrates I will ask the crew for
their input.>
Thanks.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Mark Simon, VP
Living Marine Art
SW: System: Use of Dither Fish 4/23/2009
Hi Crew,
<Hi Samuel>
Just wanted to share something. Over time when reading about fish I
have come across the comment that
a particular fish tends to stay in the open and thus causes you
other fish to come out of hiding.
<Yes, dither fish. They convince the other fish that it is safe to
come out. (i.e. There are no predators around.)>
I never paid much attention to that.
My wife generally comments that she hardly sees any fish even though
my tank is overstocked.
<Not too overstocked I hope, what is in the tank?>
Recently I was buying something and the store and they just got in a
batch of baby Percula Clowns. So I bought one even though it does
not fit my current group but I figured that at least my wife would
now have something to look at.
<Not the best selection method for purchasing a fish.>
Since he did not attempt to go into the rock there was no aggression
from the old timers. He just fluttered around up and down back and
forth out in the open.
Since then all my fish are out in the open. In fact my wife
commented that now I have a lot of fish and maybe it is overcrowded.
<Thank you for your observations.>
<Mike>
Fishes Losing Color (Inadequate Nutrition) – 01/26/09
Hi
Guys,
<<Hey Brian>>
I have a 330g reef tank fairly well stocked
with 70g sump, weekly 50-60g water changes, ozone, skimmer, Kalk
reactor, 4 x 400w HQI MH 20k.
<<Cool>>
I maintain good water
quality and stable conditions. I have noticed many of my fish have
slightly lost the vibrant color they had when introduced to the tank,
mostly: Lyretail anthias (the male and females), purple tang and Sailfin
tang. The color is more faded on tangs, and on anthias the appearance of
slight darker spots on them. My blue/green chromis, orange clownfish,
and Pseudochromis still have very good color. I have been feeding:
Bio-Pure mysis shrimp
green seaweed
<<Ah! This alone is not enough
to adequately meet the nutritional requirements of your fishes and is
very likely the reason for their loss of color vibrancy. Food additives
can help (Selcon/Selco, Vita-Chem), but these often are abused or simply
not provided due to the cost/hassle. Offering a wider selection of
frozen foods would also be of benefit…but if you do nothing else, I VERY
MUCH suggest you add New Life Spectrum pellets to your fish’s diet. This
pelleted food is very palatable and amazingly nutritious and wholesome.
I have a 375g reef display housing five Tangs from four genera. Along
with an assortment of frozen foods, I provide daily offerings of the
Spectrum pellets and the colors of these and all the fishes are
(admittedly…my opinion) spectacular>>
I have recently switched to PE
mysis due to higher protein content (although I am starting to wonder if
they get higher simply due to less water mixed into cubes) and
brown/green/red seaweeds.
<<Still not enough>>
Rarely do I use
Vita-Chem and garlic additives.
<<Okay>>
I have also recently
stopped using carbon due to suspected involvement w/ lateral-line on my
tangs.
<<Mmm…this will also likely be “cured” with better nutrition>>
I am wondering if this is likely a nutritional deficiency or what
exactly is the cause?
<<Very much an environmental issue…and in this
case a lack of adequate nutrition, I do believe>>
Thanks a lot as
always!
<<Happy to assist>>
Best,
Bryan
<<Cheers, EricR>>
Re: Fishes Losing Color (Inadequate Nutrition) – 01/27/09
Thanks a lot!
<<Quite welcome Brian>>
What's your opinion on
plankton cubes, brine, and bloodworms? Worthless and not beneficial?
<<The Brine Shrimp is of questionable value, but both the Plankton and
Blood Worms are of benefit>>
I'll look for those pellets.
<<Please
do… The Spectrum food will be of great benefit to the health, vigor, and
color of your fishes>>
Should I continue Vita-Chem and add Selcon
also?
<<These can also be of benefit (the Selcon more so than the
Vita-Chem, in my opinion). I use both on an infrequent basis>>
I
always had read brine is useless except to entice feeding initially.
<<Depends… Adult Brine Shrimp are mostly water with little nutritional
value, but if “gut loaded” before feeding if live, or freezing by the
food manufacturer, they can be of some value. Even so, I don’t think
they should ever be the primary food source. Regards, EricR>>
R2: Fishes Losing Color (Inadequate Nutrition) - 01/27/09
BTW I failed to mention I feed a mix of Formula One, Two, and Reef Blend
w/ an automatic feeder 4 times a day. Does this change anything?
<<Mmm, no… Our previous discussion on the color and condition of your
fishes would seem to indicate it is still not enough/is not “doing the
job.” Make sure the fish are eating this offering…and that you are
providing “enough” of it. And I can’t mention this enough, but if this
were me, I would replace these with New Life Spectrum pellets in the
auto-feeder. Cheers, EricR>>
Predator Life Span -09/02/08
Hello, I was just wondering
about the life spans of the fish in my predator tank? Also, I don't know
their current age so if you could determine that by my estimating their
size, it would be greatly appreciated.
-Snowflake Eel (20 in.)
-Humu Picasso Trigger (5 in.)
-3 stripe damsel (1.5 in)
-Blueface
Wrasse (6 in.)
Thank you for your time.
<Hmm, this is something
you could/should research on your own. Though, I'd caution you to be
discerning regarding some sources on the internet (I've seen some sites
say that surgeon fish only live 2 to 3 years-- um, no, many can/do live
for decades, even in captivity). It's difficult to estimate the age of
fishes based on size because they grow at different rates depending on
different factors in their environments. However, it's fairly safe to
say that if a fish is only a fraction of its adult size, it's likely
still a juvenile. As for lifespans, again, this is difficult to estimate
for fish in captivity. Typically, larger, egg-laying fish tend to have
longer lifespans, usually on the order of decades (though this is a
generalization). Damsels likely don't live quite as long, I would think
<10 years.
Best,
Sara M.>
Re: Predator Life Span
-09/02/08
Well, thank you for your time. I couldn't find
much useful stuff online,
<There does indeed seem to be a dearth of
this particular kind of info for individual species (perhaps because
it's not known for certain?).>
but maybe I wasn't looking hard
enough.
<Not necessarily... specific species info does seem hard to
find. Maybe BobF knows better where to look?>
And as you said, it can
be hard to say...
Again, thank you for your time.
<De nada,
Sara M.>
Do fish sense water? -08/22/08
Hey guys, love the site.
Thanks for your patience when dealing with us.
<our pleasure>
I'm sure you have heard it all, but here is one for you. Yesterday
my BTA died. It had been going through a period of seclusion under
live rock and moving all over the walls of the tank. I knew
something was up, and was trying to figure it out. When I next
visited the aquarium, I noticed a flesh-colored slime floating in
the water and accumulating on the filter intakes, powerhead, and
wall near the surface. I located the BTA and it was "spitting" out a
white cloudy substance every couple of seconds.
<possibly a
stress spawn?>
The mouth was open (and didn't look like a mouth
anymore), and looked like it had melted.
<Hmm... this might have
been the proper time to remove it.>
For the next couple of hours
I spent some time trying to figure out what happened, and what to do
in order to make sure the rest of my tank didn't suffer (I read many
WWM topics).
After I went to bed, a storm rolled into the area.
Right as I was about to fall asleep the power flickered. I thought
nothing of it until I heard a rattling noise coming from my aquarium
room. I got up and discovered that the filter was no longer
functioning correctly. The power flicker had caused something to go
wrong as the canister was no longer taking in or exhausting water. I
spent another couple hours trying to figure this out, as now was not
the time I needed my filter to go out (as if there is a good time
for this). Finally, I had enough and went to bed.
<Oh, not
good...>
The next day I got up early to try and solve the problem
before work. When I went to the aquarium room, a small movement
caught my eye. When disassembling the filter the night before, I had
used a lid to a plastic container to catch the water. I left it on
the floor, with about a ¼ inch of water, that I was going to clean
up later. The movement I noticed was coming
from this lid. Upon
closer inspection, my ocellaris clownfish was flopping around in the
lid. I couldn't believe it ? it had jumped. After rescuing the fish,
I looked around the tank and found a trail of dried water from
behind the tank all the way to the lid.
<Hmm... from the
splashing fish inside the lid I imagine.>
All throughout this
message, there are many opportunities for learning the hobby, as
well as many places to explore for further education. I'm not
writing for that. What I am really curious about, is if fish can
sense water?
<Can they sense water when they are outside of it?
...doubtful. I imagine this fish either just got really lucky, or,
it jumped in a particular direction responding to your activity,
such that it happened to land in the lid.>
I didn't mention that
with the way the lid was positioned on the floor, there would be
about an inch lip for the fish to get over.
<Uh, it seems HIGHLY
unlikely that the fish knowingly or intentionally jumped into the
lid after falling to the floor. I believe that it either fell into
the lid and the water around the lid was just splashes made by the
fish inside... or, it landed on the floor and just flopped around
energetically enough that it got lucky and flipped itself into the
lid. Either way, this was almost certainly just a lucky shot, not
any "intelligent" action of the fish.>
To me this is really
amazing, and I am very happy that it found the water.
<Not
amazing to me... except for the "dumb luck" of the fish/you.>
BTW
- I was able to get the filter functioning before work. When I
returned home the "diver" seemed to be back playing with ocellaris
#2, so everything seems ok for now.
<Ah, good... happy to hear
it.>
Thanks for your time,
Tony
<De nada,
Sara M.
Questions Regarding a Rehab Project (Marine Tank Cycling) –
08/23/08
First and foremost, what an amazing site you
have here
<<Thank you…quite the collective effort>>
- it's
quite popular on all the search engines; nearly every query
leads me to your site which is loaded with great information.
<<Ah yes, I too have noticed this>>
While I have been
searching and reading as much as I can, it is the obvious sick
appearance of my urchin that has prompted me to write sooner, as
opposed to later.
<<Okay>>
Please bear with me; I feel
like I know some of the very basics, but certainly not enough to
stop reading and learning. :)
<<Hee-hee! Nor do I!>>
Some
background:
I have little background in saltwater aquariums
but ended up inheriting a 45 gallon salt water tank that was in
need of serious rehab. The water was dark green, and I could
barely see the animals inside, rocks were covered in green
"carpet", especially hair algae.
<<Does sound like a serious
case of neglect>>
It contained 1 lawnmower blenny, 2 clown
fish, 1 black long-spined sea urchin (still trying to figure out
exact species- see attached photo),
<<I see it…some
possibilities are Diadema antillarum and Diadema savignyi. Try a
keyword search on those names (or even just on the common name
“black long-spined urchin) and see what you think. I do also
want to mention that a 45g tank is a bit small for this animal.
The urchin can easily reach the diameter of a soccer ball in
size, and the tank really isn’t large enough to house ample live
rock for the urchin to graze upon. Also, if you plan to keep
corals this genus is known to munch on them as well>>
5
crabs, 1 goby, 1 small star and a Tiger Cowry Snail. It also
contained 50 pounds of live rock, and live sand. The person I
got the tank from was using an effusium/infusium (did I spell
that right?),
<<Hmm… “Effusium” seems to have something to do
with hair loss (as well as the nomenclature for animals and
plants)…and “infusium” seems to be a hair conditioner (Infusium
23). I think what you may have meant to say was “refugium”…see
here and among the associated links in blue:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm >>
which he swore was
the best way to go,
<<A valuable methodology/system component
for sure>>
but it broke while we were disassembling the tank
cabinet.
<<Mmm…perhaps you can employ another. Doing so would
certainly add to the stability and long-term health/success of
the system>>>>
The first thing I did was test the tank's
water and received the following numbers: Ammonia .25,
<<This
should be “zero”…and the tank’s inhabitants should be moved to
another system until it is>>
Nitrite .25,
<<Ditto here…
These last two are VERY toxic to your livestock. If these are
accurate (do “check the checker”), more than the urchin will be
malaffected…and soon>>
Nitrate 100,
<<Much too high as
well…it seems this tank is “cycling”…see here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/estbiofiltmar.htm >>
pH 8.3, Spec
Gravity 1.025,
<<These are good>>>>
KH 12.2, ALK 4.34.
<<I think these are okay too…but for future reference please
include the units of measurement (e.g. – ppm, mEq/l, etc.)
Temp 78.
<<Also good>>
I was torn between getting the
animals in a healthier environment, and not shocking them by
making huge environmental changes.
<<Based on you water
chemistry readings you should be executing large water changes
to keep the nitrogenous compounds diluted…right now these are
more harmful than any “changes” will be>>
I was told to not
scrub the algae off the rocks,
<<Not important at this
stage…and possibly an ally at the moment re the high
Ammonia/Nitrite/Nitrate readings>>
so I just rinsed them
with clean salt water, made with Oceanic Natural Sea Salt mix.
<<This is fine, though I would use a better brand of salt mix. I
find this brand too inconsistent between batches. I would like
to encourage you to look to the Seachem line of products for
salt, additives, test kits…excellent quality/value in my
opinion>>
We began using a protein skimmer.
<<Excellent…and hopefully a quality design. For this tank I
would highly recommend the AquaC Remora (hang-on style)…or the
AquaC Urchin if you employ a sump>>
I did a major water
change, nearly half the tank, replaced the animals, crossed my
fingers and hoped for the best.
<<Mmm, need to do more than
“wish” these problems away. Do keep up your research/reading and
learn to “know” what the right approach is. But as stated…the
large water change(s) are definitely called for here>>
Everyone seemed to make it through okay; we fed them once a day
with either Cyclopeeze or granulated krill/shrimp mix and
everyone seemed active and fine. I have been testing the water
daily, and it has stayed in approximately the same range that it
is now, after I changed the water the very first time: Ammonia
.25, Nitrite .1, Nitrate 2, pH 8.0, spec. gravity 1.022. Temp
80.
<<Do check your test kits for accuracy against another
brand…if true, you need to move that livestock to a safer
system, stat! You also need to keep the Salinity up and closer
to NSW levels (1.025/1.026)>>
I'm frustrated that I can't
seem to raise the pH even after adding baking soda in increments
as you have suggested in a previous post.
<<The Sodium
Bicarbonate won’t (can’t) raise the pH any more than this. Look
to the Seachem buffer for this…though changing/choosing a better
salt mix as suggested will likely help as well…along with proper
preparation re. Start here and browse among the associated links
for much info on water changes/water prep:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/watchgantart.htm >>
I'm wondering
what I'm missing here.
<<Nothing I think…other than the
urgent need to move the livestock to safe quarters and letting
this tank cycle and stabilize, for now>>
I was tempted to add
some damsels to munch some of the excess hair algae,
<<No!>>
but was hesitant to add anything to a tank that is unstable.
<<Indeed>>
What prompted this email, is over the past two
days, my urchin is losing his spines, and the more I read about
it, the more grave it seems.
<<Indeed…at the least the toxic
environment is killing it, though I suspect other factors at
play as well (starvation, lack of sufficient bio-mineral content
of the water)…and it is likely beyond saving now. These animals
decline very rapidly once they start to “lose spines”>>
First
it was 2 spines lost, which I chalked up to "normal",
<<A
couple spines lost now and again is not of concern, agreed>>
but this morning I woke up and found about 8 or 9 on the bottom
of the tank.
<<…and so it begins. A very bad sign>>
There
are two spines that appear to be still attached to the urchin
that are almost white.
<<This is not atypical>>
I read
about how urchins can lose spines when they are not getting
enough to eat, so I fed him extra, and made sure that he "got
some".
<<The extra feedings/presence of these animals in this
toxic system period, are only compounding the problem>>
Then,
I emailed you. The urchin seems to be active, moving around,
etc…but the spine loss is scaring me. I'm wondering if I shocked
him, and if so, why is this just showing up now?
<<Not
shocked…poisoned>>
Is there anything I can do to help him?
<<Move it…all livestock…to a safer system. Perhaps there is an
LFS that will hold the livestock until your tank is ready to
receive such again…or maybe a fellow hobbyist>>
Is it too
late?
<<To be honest…for the urchin, I think so. But if you
act quickly, who knows?>>
All of the other animals appear to
be fine; active and eating.
<<Not fine my friend…they too are
being poisoned>>
He seems to be too, except he's losing
spines. I would like to know more about the steps I need to take
to improve the water quality, how to remove the tremendous
amount of green algae from the rocks and what I can do (if
anything) to save my urchin.
<<All posted…and plenty of time
to read/learn once you move your animals>>
Today makes one
week since I received this tank for rehab.
<<Ah…then almost
certainly the Nitrogen cycle was upset/restarted when the tan
was moved. This will balance out again, but you must give it
time…something your livestock doesn’t have at the moment, in
this system>>
I'm still sifting through my books and online
resources, and it can get overwhelming. Hope you can help point
me in the right direction.
<<I hope I have… And again…I can’t
stress enough the importance of removing the livestock while
this tank cycles>>
Thanks,
Ginger
<<Happy to assist.
Regards, EricR>> |
Growth rate and max size of a few fish... Reading, the high/er cost
of ignorance, marine fish stkg. 2/8/08
Hello,
<Scott>
I have a 75 gallon tank and am wondering how rapidly and to what
maximum size a couple fish will reach. They are the Formosan Coris,
Queen Angel and the Blue face Angel.
<Uhh... each of these
species will be mal-affected in its growth rate in this (small)
size/volume system... the angels in particular with each other>
My LFS that so far has been very good with recommendations and setup
questions, assures me that they will grow very slow and will not
outgrow my tank.
<Actually... the more likely scenario is not
quite so promising... the Holacanthus ciliaris will likely kill the
other two... the Blueface dying first here>
Also, in a fish only
tank, how many fish of decent size could I safely put in?
<You're
not joking?>
I currently have 2 Damsels, (Lemon and 3 Stripe),
Royal Gramma, 2 False Perculas and a Purple Tang. Thanks for your
advice.
Scott
<... please, follow directions if/when writing
us. Use the search tool/indices... for the species you list... You
need to. Bob Fenner>
Re: Growth rate and max size of a few fish
I apologize, I
have a disability with my vision due to diabetic retinopathy, which
makes it next to impossible to read through the incredible amount of
information the website has. I am new to the hobby, which I am sure
you could figure that out and am trying to learn as much as I can
without destroying my eyesight completely. Sorry to trouble you and
thank you for your time.
Scott
<The loss of vision has been a
continual issue with me my entire life (have greatly diminished use
of one eye, congenital)... I encourage you to have a well-sighted
friend help you by searching, reading for you. Cheers, Bob Fenner,
who looks forward to better technology in coming years... for
seeking out information for us, as well as human health> |
QUESTIONNAIRE 2/4/08
Hi crew, and thanks to Bob for his
recent advice re: Ich, Hypo, Copper, Moray, Formalin. Everything is back
in the reef tank now and no sign of ich as yet (5 days later). I am
tackling the HLLE that developed on my A. Lineatus while in QT with a
'super dooper enriched vitamin home made food' that cost me a small
fortune in supplements from my local health shop! I'm sure I can see an
improvement already - he's been munching on sponges, algae's and the
like that have grown in my tank over this period as well. I'm feeling
pretty positive at the moment!
<Good>
Only thing is that the
sudden introduction of all these fish has caused a bacterial bloom and
my water is cloudy. Should I leave this to sort itself out, or should I
drag my old U.V. out of hibernation and employ that for a few days?
<Up to you>
I have filled in your questionnaire,
<Thanks>
Thanks very much,
Simon, England
Question #1:
List the common
and, if available, the scientific name each of the fish and/or
invertebrates that have lived at least three years in your aquarium. (If
more than three, choose the longest living three in your tank.
Three
years Niger Trigger (Odonus niger), Green Bubble Anemone (Entacmaea
quadricolor)
Four years Green Wolf Eel (Congrogadus subduscens)
Five Years Clown Tang (Acanthurus lineatus) Emperor Angelfish
(Pomacanthus Imperator) Volitans Lion (Pterois volitans)
More than
five 2 Clarkii Clowns (Amphiprion clarkii), Giant hermit crab (blue
legged, species unknown)
Question #2:
Please indicate current
water parameters for the following:
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate
2 ppm
PH (I'm having trouble measuring this. My test kit shows 8.1
(Salifert), my meter shows 8.8. I think that both are wrong, as when I
calibrate the meter (it's a Hanna meter) it goes to 8.5 for a while then
back up again. I still think that 8.5 is still too high as after
calibration I test it with borax and it still reads high).
Total
Alkalinity 8.3 dKH
Calcium 520
Question #3
Please fill in the
following blanks:
Tank Size 180gallon US
Water Changing: Bi
monthly (every other Saturday)
Water Changing: 20 percent
Finally
one admittedly unrelated, but in the author's opinion, extremely
important question that should be of interest to every aquarist who buys
sea salt:
Please indicate the nitrate content and brand of sea salt
you use.
(Use I/O water only and check 12 hours after mixed but prior
to adding to tank. Also check I/O water for nitrates first. Only if zero
nitrates are indicated should you continue with this test)
Product:
Gro-tech Coralmarine Reef salt
Nitrate Level After Mixing Salt w/R/O
water
Nitrate - 0
Phosphate - 0.03 (trace)
Etc....
<Again,
thank you, BobF>
Survey 1-22-08
Question #1:
List the common and, if
available, the scientific name each of the fish and/or invertebrates
that have lived at least three years in your aquarium. (If more than
three, choose the longest living three in your tank.
I started about
5 years ago. It took a few months of failing then finding WWM to get
things right.
Four years Spotted cardinal- Sphaeramia nematoptera
Green Clown Goby Gobiodon atrangulatus
Question #2:
Please
indicate current water parameters for the following:
PH 8.2 (field
16)
<Thanks for the input Sam. Bob Fenner>
Survey
01/22/2008
Question #1:
List the common and, if available,
the scientific name each of the fish and/or invertebrates that have
lived at least three years in your aquarium. (If more than three, choose
the longest living three in your tank.
3 years-Blue Hippo Tang
(Paracanthurus hepatus)
Pink Skunk Clownfish
(Amphiprion
perideraion)
Acanthastrea Echinata
4 years-Banded Coral Shrimp
(Stenopus hispidus)
5 years-Candy Cane Coral
(Caulastrea furcata)
Green Mushroom Coral/Anemone
(Rhodactis sp.)
Ocellaris Clownfish
(Amphiprion ocellaris)
Question #2:
Please indicate current water
parameters for the following:
Ammonia-0 ppm
Nitrite-0 ppm
Nitrate-Unknown
PH-8.0
Total Alkalinity-8.0 dKH
Calcium-430
ppm
Question #3
Please fill in the following blanks:
Tank
Size-125 gallon tank with 30 gallon sump half full
Water Changing:
Slightly more than bi-monthly
Water Changing: 10-20 percent
Finally one admittedly unrelated, but in the author’s opinion, extremely
important question that should be of interest to every aquarist who buys
sea salt:
Please indicate the nitrate content and brand of sea salt
you use.
Red Sea Coral Pro used with DI only water-not sure about
nitrates of mix
P.S.-I apologize in advance if I've filled out this
survey incorrectly or submitted it to the incorrect email address.
Wasn't quite 100% sure how to do it. Thanks though-these surveys are so
important and MANY, MANY more should be done. Thanks so much.
<Thank
you for your participation/input. Bob Fenner>
Re: Fall 2007 Sea Scope Article... now marine livestock longevity
1/1/08
Thanks for the suggestion. It seemed to me he was
describing an on-going process rather than an isolated phenomena, but
either way, I will pursue further reading on the subject and read
Hovanec.
<Ah, good>
Also, a suggestion: I find there to be very
little info. on the longevity (real life) of various marine species in
salt-water aquariums. I wonder if you would consider adding a brief
survey to your website on this issue.
<You pen it, I'll place it!
And make a folder, links to archive input>
I realize the vast
disparities in equipment and upkeep make the effort less scientific, but
if, say, basic parameters were asked for in the survey, it might improve
the value of responses. I also think most readers who fill out the
survey probably could be considered serious hobbyists.
<Good
points... there are some hard data re for public institutions, but much
of this is not published, and/or very hard to find>
Since there is no
possible way the aquarium industry will ever produce such data, perhaps
you can do this as a service to both hobbyists and fish. Just a thought.
Thanks for all your information and commitment, it is genuinely
appreciated.
<Thank you for your input, participation. Bob Fenner>
Re: Fall 2007 Sea Scope Article 1/12/2008
<<Yes... it's back:
http://www.instantocean.com/sites/InstantOcean/knowledge/newsletter.aspx?id=1298>
Mr. Fenner: I've attached a first draft of the survey I'm
suggesting. If you like the basic idea, feel free to make any
changes/additions you wish.
I think given the large viewership of
sophisticated marine aquarists that you have, the survey results
would be of genuine interest throughout the hobby. I tried to make
it as simple as possible for people to fill out in the hope that it
will increase participation.
<Looks good Eric>
On the last
question, I took your suggestion and went to the FAQ you suggested.
I found not a single mention of the nitrate specific issue.
Moreover, in taking a look at the most recent comprehensive analysis
of the contents of sea salts, a study which examined over 30
different elements and compounds, nitrate was not included.
<Such is our "science" presently>
I find this either unbelievable
or some sort of effort by the industry to suppress this information.
Either way, I think the question needs to asked and answered.
<Yes... a bit might be stated re the use/costs of making
synthetics... the combination of metals/non-metals that are salts...
the history of formulations, problems, mostly induced re...>
Please take a look at it and let me know what you think. I love your
web site and your book. Thanks! Eric Shulman
<I will post today.
Thank you for your efforts. Bob Fenner>
Re: Fall 2007 Sea Scope Article 1/12/2008
Fabulous. Let me
know if I can be of further assistance. BTW, in my own experimenting
I found that Tropic Marin had almost no Nitrate.
<Ah, yes...
"real" salt mixes don't. Cheers, BobF>
Re: Fall 2007 Sea Scope Article... Marine fish/livestock longevity
survey - 1/17/08
Bob -- Where do things stand on the
survey? Have you run into any problems?
<Posted... but no
responses thus far... Need to think of a way to display this a bit
better. B>
Re: Fall 2007 Sea Scope Article - 1/17/08
I'm inclined to agree as I couldn't find it either! Perhaps on the
"Marine Aquarium Articles and FAQ's" page with a word or two from
you asking for participation.
<Will try...>
That might boost
participation! Thanks for your effort here. I am aware this is
largely a 'labor of love' for you! Eric
<Ah, yes... Cheers,
BobF> |
Livestock Longevity Survey: Please fill out and return to us via
email for accrual. |
Longevity Survey of Common Marine Fishes and Invertebrates
The primary purpose of this survey is to inform aquarists,
aquarium stores and the aquarium industry in general of the
likelihood of success in keeping common marine fish and
invertebrates. Although there is certainly a great
deal of information available on this topic of a species
specific nature based on extensive research and observation,
there is virtually no empirical data gathered from a large group
of those closest to the hobby, aquarists themselves.
There is some attempt to insure uniformity of results by
requiring information on tank size, water quality and
maintenance habits, however, it is not possible to remove all
variables. As such, the survey should only be
considered a guide to likely success in caring for a particular
fish or invertebrate. Readers should also factor in the
overall number of survey respondents in considering its ultimate
reliability. The larger the participation rate, the more
reliable the results. By definition,
this survey should only be filled out by people who have
maintained salt-water or reef aquariums for at least three
years. Question #1:
List the common and, if available, the scientific name each of
the fish and/or invertebrates that have lived at least three
years in your aquarium. (If more than three, choose the
longest living three in your tank.
Three years
(field one)
(field five)
(field nine)
Four years
(field two)
(field six)
(field ten)
Five Years
(field three) (field seven)
(field eleven)
More than five (field four)
(field eight) (field twelve)
Question #2:
Please indicate current water parameters for the following:
Ammonia
(field 13) Nitrite
(field 14) Nitrate
(field 15) PH
(field 16) Total Alkalinity
(field 17) Calcium
(field 18) Question #3
Please fill in the following blanks:
Tank Size 20 –
40
(field 19)
40-75
(field 21)
75-150
(field 22)
150-300
(field 23)
>300
(field 24) Water Changing:
Frequency Weekly
(field 25) Bi-Monthly
(field 26) Once Monthly (field
27) Water Changing: Volume
10 percent (field 28)
10-20 percent (field 29)
20-30 percent (field 30)
30-50 percent (field 31) >50
percent (field 32)
Finally one admittedly unrelated, but in the author’s opinion,
extremely important question that should be of interest to every
aquarist who buys sea salt: Please
indicate the nitrate content and brand of sea salt you use.
(Use I/O water only and check 12
hours after mixed but prior to adding to tank. Also
check I/O water for nitrates first. Only if zero
nitrates are indicated should you continue with this test)
Product: Instant Ocean
(field 33)
Tropic Marin (field 34)
(Fill in other major brands) Nitrate
Level After Mixing Salt w/R/O water
Instant Ocean
Tropic Marin Etc….
We may also want to ask about test kits, but since this is
not intended to be a scientific survey I think we can forgo it
and still get some very interesting and useful data. (ES) |
Survey 1/18/08
Hi Bob,
I'm hoping this is the email
address that you'd like these surveys sent to!
Take care,
-Lynn
<Thank you Lynn! BobF>
Longevity Survey of Common
Marine Fishes and Invertebrates
The primary purpose of this
survey is to inform aquarists, aquarium stores and the aquarium
industry in general of the likelihood of success in keeping common
marine fish and invertebrates. Although there is certainly a great
deal of information available on this topic of a species specific
nature based on extensive research and observation, there is
virtually no empirical data gathered from a large group of those
closest to the hobby, aquarists themselves.
There is some
attempt to insure uniformity of results by requiring information on
tank size, water quality and maintenance habits, however, it is not
possible to remove all variables. As such, the survey should only be
considered a guide to likely success in caring for a particular fish
or invertebrate. Readers should also factor in the overall number of
survey respondents in considering its ultimate reliability. The
larger the participation rate, the more reliable the results.
By
definition, this survey should only be filled out by people who have
maintained salt-water or reef aquariums for at least three years.
Question #1:
List the common and, if available, the scientific
name each of the fish and/or invertebrates that have lived at least
three years in your aquarium. (If more than three, choose the
longest living three in your tank.
Three years Purple Firefish
(Nemateleotris decora)
Four years Lawnmower Blenny (Salarias
fasciatus)
Five Years (field three) (field seven) (field eleven)
More than five (field four) (field eight) (field twelve)
Question
#2:
Please indicate current water parameters for the following:
Ammonia -0- (field 13)
Nitrite -0- (field 14)
Nitrate -0-
(field 15)
PH 8.2 (field 16)
Total Alkalinity 9.62 dKH (field
17)
Calcium 365ppm (field 18)
Question #3
Please fill in
the following blanks:
Tank Size 20 – 40 one (30g) (field 19)
40-75 one (55g) (field 21)
75-150 one (75g) (field 22)
150-300
(field 23)
>300 (field 24)
Water Changing: Frequency
Weekly (field 25)
Bi-Monthly X (field 26)
Once Monthly (field
27)
Water Changing: Volume
10 percent (field 28)
10-20
percent X (each time) (field 29)
20-30 percent (field 30)
30-50 percent (field 31)
>50 percent (field 32)
Finally one
admittedly unrelated, but in the author’s opinion, extremely
important question that should be of interest to every aquarist who
buys sea salt:
Please indicate the nitrate content and brand of
sea salt you use.
(Use I/O water only and check 12 hours after
mixed but prior to adding to tank. Also check I/O water for nitrates
first. Only if zero nitrates are indicated should you continue with
this test)
Product:
Instant Ocean X (field 33)
Tropic
Marin (field 34)
(Fill in other major brands)
Nitrate Level
After Mixing Salt w/R/O water
Instant Ocean - Sorry, never
checked this! I mix with RO/DI water so I know there aren't any
nitrates in the water going in. Just assumed there wouldn't be any
coming from the salt. It's supposed to be nitrate free, but I've
never confirmed this.
Tropic Marin
Etc….
We may also want
to ask about test kits, but since this is not intended to be a
scientific survey I think we can forgo it and still get some very
interesting and useful data. (ES)
The test kits I use are
Salifert (for everything - Iodine, phosphates, calcium, alk, pH,
ammonia, nitrites, nitrates). I also use a refractometer for
specific gravity.
Re: the survey 1/18/08
Hi there!
<Howzit?>
I just
wanted to comment - I like the line across the FAQ's about the
survey, and the link works. However, (and I don't think this is
purely because I am a Mac User), I have tried 3 browsers - Safari,
Firefox, and Opera - and in none of the browsers does the survey
work properly.
To give you an example, this is what I get:
"Question #1:
List the common and, if available, the scientific
name each of the fish and/or invertebrates that have lived at least
three years in your aquarium. (If more than three, choose the
longest living three in your tank.
Three years (field one) (field
five) (field nine)
Four years (field two) (field
six) (field
ten)
Five Years (field three) (field seven) (field eleven)
More than five (field four) (field eight) (field twelve)"
Because
of this, while I would like to answer the survey, I cannot do
so...just thought I would respond as possible.
Thanks for your
tremendous site,
Kerstin:-)
<Arghh... Is the medium really
the message? If so, I need a massage. Danke. BobF>
Survey 1/18/08
<Thank you for your input. BobF>
3 fish
living apprx 4 years:
Naso Tang
Fridmani Pseudochromis
Foxface Lo
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 40 – has been this
way for a couple years
pH 8.2
Alkalinity 1.0245
Calcium
unknown
75 gallon tank (240 gallon on order – yeah!!!)
Weekly
15% water Changes
Have always used Instant Ocean (nitrate .10
after mix)
Thanks Again for all you do….
Committed to Your
Success,
Scott Nicholson |
Lifespan
of aquarium fish
Hello,
I just found your site. Anyway, where
can I find information about the lifespans of various saltwater aquarium
fish.
<The most readily data here are posted (at times) by Public
Aquariums. You can find links to many of them here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlinks.htm>
I have or should say had a
small brown Scopas tang for about 1 1/2 years. This morning I found it
dead. Basically I would like this information just so I can tell if it
is just old age or other problems.
<Mmm, not old age... Zebrasoma
Tangs have been kept in captivity for teens of years>
I had it in a
50 gallon tank with 60 lbs of live rock. All of the water parameters are
fine. Also in the tank are 2 small clownfish, a blue damsel and a yellow
tailed wrasse. These fish are all fine and very active. The Brown Scopas
has always been very active up until this morning. Thanx, Rod
<Be
chatting, Bob Fenner> Rapid gill movements?
REM...er,
RGM: rapid gill movements?
Hello guys, hope things are well.
<and
to you the same with thanks>
This is a quick one (I think/hope!).
I've seen many warnings against improper gill movements, but a
description of what that is hard to come by.
<each species is
different... but 60/min is close for many>
I agree that this along
with other observations is a very good indicator of health, and I'd like
to know where my fishes' breathing should be at. Right now, the fish I'm
researching are the ones I own...one of each of
Centropyge tibicen
(4-inch)
Pomacanthus semicirculatus (2 1/2-inch)
Zebrasoma
flavescens (4-inch)
Ctenochaetus strigosus (5-inch)
Pseudochromis
diadema (2-inch)
2 Amphiprion frenatus (2-inch)
Thanks for the
input Matt
<yes... a lazy and deliberate once per long second is
"normal" for many fishes. Labored breath is fairly obvious and indicates
impending infections of parasites in gills, low dissolved oxygen, etc.
Best regards, Anthony> Fish Lifespan
How long can I
expect my fish will live if the conditions I give them are good? Yellow
tang?
<Easily 10-15 years or more.>
Blue devil and Yellow tail
damsel?
<Well over five years, perhaps as much as ten.>
Boxing
shrimp (red banded)?
<I don't really know about this one. Easily over
five years, but I don't know the maximum. What I can say, is just about
any fish will live longer in captivity than in the wild, given
appropriate care and conditions. In aquariums, they are free from
disease and predation. The predation is the real killer. I remember
seeing a study on Jawfish which showed they only lived about a year in
the wild. They eventually get eaten. It is like this with many smaller
fish. They are food for someone else.>
Thank you, Carlos Díaz
<You
are welcome. -Steven Pro> Life expectancy?
>What
are the life expectancies of salt water fish. I have a regal tang,
percula clown and a bi-color blenny in a 30 gallon tank. Thanks.
>>All species are different, but the fishes you've mentioned should live
at least ten years, with the tang possibly having a lifespan of 20
years. Marina Aussies discover world's
tiniest fish
SYDNEY, Australia (AP) — They must have needed a really small hook, but
Australian scientists say they've caught what they believe is the
world's smallest and lightest fish. In fact, researchers at
Sydney's Australian Museum say the Stout Infant fish is so minuscule
— it would take a million of them to tip the scales at one kilogram
— they are seeking to have it listed as the world's smallest and
lightest vertebrate. The microscopic fish, first
discovered by Australian scientists in 1979 but not classified until
today, is formally identified as Schindleria brevipinguis. Males of
the species are just seven millimetres long while females average
8.4 millimetres. The world's current acknowledged
smallest vertebrate is the dwarf goby fish. Males of that species
reach 8.6 millimetres and females 8.9 millimetres. The
Stout infantfish, a wormlike thread with big — comparatively
speaking — eyes but no teeth, scales or pigmentation, has only been
found near one island off Australia's east coast. It was
listed as a new species in the Records of the Australian Museum,
Volume 56 Number 2, published Wednesday after two American
researchers, William Watson of the National Marine Fisheries in La
Jolla, Calif., and H.J. Walker of the Scripps Institution of
Oceanography at the University of California, San Diego, confirmed
it was a separate species. Fishies won't come out
and play 1/20/07
I have a quick question for The Crew.
<and
I might have an answer for ya! Graham T. with you tonight.>
I just
bought a Foxface and Blue Spotted Puffer a week ago and they seem to be
uncomfortable in the tank.
The puffer is a little better
then the Foxface but they pretty much just hide in the back and come out
every once in a while to eat (if I'm not standing by the tank).
<Normal for the Foxface, and not a cause of concern for the puffer,
either.>
Does this mean they're not feeling healthy, therefore they
don't feel strong enough to take on a challenge like "get used to
humans"? Or does it mean they are simply not social? Appreciate the
help!!
<It means you may have to give them more time to acclimate to
their surroundings. Consider what they've been through.>
Jon
<-Graham T.>
Behavioural Question, SW fishes 6/13/07
Hello
Bob & Crew,
<Mike>
I have a question regarding the curious
behaviour of the inhabitants of my aquarium. I read all the
compatibility info on these species that I could, but nothing on "group
behaviour" though.
<Wouldn't it be great to have such...>
Set-up:
Three month old 72gal. Bowfront with 80lbs LR, 1-2" Reef Sand, Eheim
Pro-ll Filter, Hang-on slightly oversized Skimmer, and now a new
Maxi-Flo 1200 Powerhead. Thanks for that advice Bob.
(I knew your
name sounded familiar. Small world. The Conscientious Marine Aquarist
was one of the first books I bought at start-up. Served me well, thank
you)
<Ah, welcome>
Stock: Various Snails and Hermits, smooth
Brittle Star, Conch, Feather Duster, Colt Coral, Blood Shrimp, Coral
Beauty, 2 Percula Clowns and a Pixie Hawkfish.
Water quality tests
well weekly. PH 8.2, no sign of ammonia, nitrites and nitrates, I'm
slowly raising SG from 1.021 to 1.023 as per Bob's advice.
I do have
a little trouble keeping temp stable though. The heater keeps the temp
up (mid 70's) and I occasionally have to use my home A/C to bring it
down. (from low 80's)
<Small vacillations, changes here should not be
a problem in this good-sized volume>
Here's the situation that I find
odd.
The Blood Shrimp set up shop at one end of the new (but cycled)
tank in a crevice between two rocks with a nice view and a bit of beach
in front. (Lucky Shrimp!)
I noticed when I added the two young
Clowns, they liked to "hang out" on the beach in front of the Shrimp's
luxury accommodations. They might only take the occasional stroll up and
down the beach.
Then I added the young Coral Beauty and, sure enough,
she likes to hover around in the same crevice above the shrimp when
she's not cruising the length of the tank swimming in and out of all the
tunnels.
I just added my Hawkfish, and now he seems to want to hang
around with the crowd at the same bottom corner of the tank when he's
not rock climbing all over the tank.
(Don't ask why the Coral Beauty
is a "she" and the Hawk is a "he". It's either a mental thing or just
lack of knowledge, or both)
<You are to be congratulated for such
self-awareness>
Ok, it may not be a 210gal tank, but 72 gallons is
looking huge the way these inhabitants are treating the available real
estate.
I don't understand. I did my research and built all the
tunnels and hideouts to accommodate my stocking plan and now everyone
seems to want to live at the same address.
Trust me. The rest of the
beach front properties are equally nice. I know. I built them.
I do
not limit feeding to this end of the tank, and there are no Sharks,
Triggers or nets at the other end.
Is it the draw of the Shrimp's
"cleaning station"?
<Likely to a large degree, yes... This Lysmata
has probably "set the dynamic" here>
He is only doing minor detail
work on the Coral Beauty at present.
I do have short bursts of tiny
air bubbles intermittently coming out the filter output tube at the
opposite top corner of the tank. Are they trying to keep away from this?
<Perhaps>
They certainly don't mind cruising the area.
Where they
congregate is right beside the entrance to the room they are in.
Do
they just want company? Ours; theirs?
<Heeee! Hard to state... there
could possibly be many factors at play... Would it not be neat to have
several such systems? Or this one on a set of casters to rotate, move
around... to investigate whether it's some aspect of ambient lighting,
perhaps the dipole moment of our planet... That may be influential
here?>
I can not see anything inside or outside the tank at the other
end that I can recognize as a problem (but I am not a fish). Again, they
do cruise the area regularly.
Don't get me wrong. I have no problem
with this. Frankly, it makes observation easy. But is it normal, or is
it extremely unusual and should I be looking for something.
<Maybe
there is some sort of predator... perhaps a crustacean hitchhiker toward
the other end...>
Everyone seems to get along so far. Only one tiny
Clown occasionally tries to play tough guy with the new, but larger,
Hawkfish. This is just too funny to watch. It's half the size of the
Hawk!
Just wanted to check if there is anything to worry about here.
(I'm sure you are accustomed to all novices worrying too much)
Thank
you for your time and any words of wisdom you may offer.
Mike
<Likely no worries... and the stock will "spread" out in time... Esp.
with the Clowns growth... Bob Fenner>
Re: Behavioural Question – 06/14/07
Hello Bob & Crew,
Just a
thank you note. No reply required.
Funny, we had the same thought of
being able to turn the "tank on casters" to test the attraction to that
one end of the tank.
<A friend who was studying fish physiology...
orientation to polarized light... actually had a tank on a record
player... to slowly rotate...>
I will not be attempting this any time
soon.
<Heeee!>
For what it's worth, I am very impressed with the
crew's knowledge, patience and the level of service you are providing to
baffled, head scratching, nervous mother aquarists of every skill level.
<So am I!>
I can only imagine how grateful the surviving fish are!
<Ah yes my friend... Karma works in many ways... perhaps the antithesis
of that "pay back" thing>
I may not know anything about fish, but I
do know a great deal about service and yours is excellent.
My fish
thank you.
Mike
<And we gladly accept them cosmically. BobF>
I know certain fish can transition from freshwater, brackish, and
saltwater. 5/11/07
Hello Crew,
I hope
everyone is having a good day.
<So far, so good!>
I know certain
fish can transition from freshwater, brackish, and saltwater.
<Indeed. Such fish are called "euryhaline fish" as opposed to
"stenohaline fish" that are confined to freshwater or saltwater habitats
their entire lives.>
Does their food need to change also?
<A
good question. It depends upon on the fish. Certain fish live in one
environment for part of their life cycle, and another environment the
next part of the life cycle. In many cases, there are dietary changes
along with these ecological changes. Atlantic Salmon for example live in
freshwater as hatchlings and for the first few months of their life,
feeding mostly on insect larvae. They then go to sea for a few years
where they feed on crustaceans of various kinds and small fish. Once
they reach a certain size they will migrate back into rivers to spawn,
but during this spawning run they don't feed much, if at all. They then
return to the sea and begin feeding again, in preparation for the
spawning run the next year. Other fishes, like scats, simply eat
whatever they find wherever they go. These fish move between freshwater
and the sea all the time, and what they eat depends only on what they
encounter. For the aquarist, one of the striking things about brackish
water fish is their greediness. The problem is making sure you don't
overfeed them and compromise water quality as a result. Some brackish
water fish are predators, and need a primarily meaty diet, but most are
omnivores and take a variety of foods including algae, plant matter,
frozen foods, and pellets.>
I know the salt levels change, but what
other effects does it have on their bodies?
<The change in salinity
is the main thing euryhaline fish have to deal. So in freshwater a scat
(for example) will be pumping out excess water while conserving salt,
but doing the reverse when it is in the sea. Secondary issues will be
differences in temperature (the sea varies more slowly than neighbouring
rivers so may be cooler or warmer depending on the season), pH,
hardness, and other aspects of water chemistry. Salt water also provides
more buoyancy than freshwater, and euryhaline fish also need to adjust
the amount of gas in the swim bladder to keep the same level of poise
when swimming.>
I am particularly interested in mollies.
<The
relationship between mollies and brackish water is complex. Mollies are
naturally found in freshwater, brackish, and marine environments. But in
aquaria they tend to do poorly in freshwater, being very prone to
fungus, finrot, and the "shimmies". It is not 100% clear to me that they
need brackish water, and some aquarists have suggested that it is the
ambient level of nitrates that matter. In brackish water nitrate is less
toxic than in freshwater, so the mollies will thrive even if the nitrate
levels are quite high. It certainly seems to be the case that people who
have luck keeping mollies in freshwater aquaria also keep the nitrates
at very low (practically zero) levels. In ordinary community tanks where
the nitrates are around 20-100 mg/l, mollies just don't do well.>
Thank you,
Ann
<Cheers, Neale>
|
|
