Stocking Plans for 75 Reef, no reading – 8/25/08
Crew,
<? Zach?>
I have a few questions and will try to be as concise as possible. I am ready to start my 75 reef after a few FOWLR years. My light is a 4x65 watt power compact from Orbit. The sand bed is four inches thick. I have a euro-reef sump, Coralife super skimmer 125, and around 125 lbs of Live Rock. I was wondering how my stocking list looks:
1) Kole Tang or Yellow Tang 2) Flame Angel or Coral Beauty 3) five to seven Banggai cardinals
<Nah, read re these on WWM>
4) Percula or Pair of Perculas 5) Six Line or Leopard Wrasse
<Macropharyngodons... not easily kept>
or Scott or Flasher Wrasse?6) Sleeper Head and Diamond Goby?
Inverts: Various Hermits (Scarlet, Blue Knuckle, Zebras),
<Not a fan... as you'd see had you read>
three cleaner shrimp, various turbo/astrea/Nerite snails, a single blue linkia,
<... you're joking?>
one purple reef lobster
<No soup for you!>
Corals: some LPSs such as bubble, Acan brains, frogspawn. Zoa polyps, leather corals, mushrooms
How is this list?
<Untenable... won't work>
My second question is: If my phosphates are zero from a Phosban and having decent tap water, should I still use an RO Unit?
Thank you so much for your help, you have done the hobby a justice
Zach
<... try reading on WWM re all this. Bob Fenner>

Compatibility concern, Reef stkg.  8/20/08
hey guys,
this site has given me so much information. i am amazed that you volunteer... what a commitment. so thank you. i hope this isn't too much info, but here goes...
after many hours of reading previous posts, i have realized that i need to clear some potential compatibility problems in my tank...
particularly in the coral department... although my corals get along fine now, am i likely to have problems in the long term?
the corals seem like they are flourishing for the most part...(other than the xenia being a little temperamental at times). i have fallen
in love with the hobby and don't want to screw up. i take it very seriously and am in it for the long haul... i am hoping to continue
keeping a great variety of corals. attached is a recent photo...
my system details...
72 gallon bowfront
15 gallons of water in my sump (total of 87 gallons)
CoraLife super skimmer
80 to 90 lbs of live rock
2 inches of live sand
3 power heads (2 high, 1 low in back behind live rock)
also circulating with sump return
CoraLife Aqualite pro ( 2-250watt metal halide bulbs)
fish... (the fish seem to get along quite well. i am not planning to add any more fish.)
mimic tang
Tomini tang
Scopas tang
coral beauty angel
flame angel
2 black clown fish
2 fire shrimp
2 snails (bumpy shell, not sure exactly what kind)
3 red starfish (with blue tips)
sand dwelling star fish
handful of hermit crabs
corals...
leather finger
leather toadstool
3 polyp clusters (one of them is quite a bit larger polyps)
torch coral
hammer coral
star polyp
fuzzy green mushroom cluster
purple mushroom cluster
red mushroom cluster
plate coral
3 xenia clusters
flower pot (which my clown adores)
water...
spec. gravity= 1.025
ph= 8.5-8.6
<<Too high. RMF>>
Alk= 2
ammonia= 0
nitrate= 0
nitrite= 0.0-0.05
calcium= 380-400
temp 79-80.5
i supplement the water with Weiss coral boost daily, Kent marine PhytoPlex 3 times per week, Weiss Bacter boost after water changes (10% weekly) Kent marine liquid calcium daily (as i am trying to increase calcium to 400+)
the fish seem to get along quite well. i am not planning to add any more fish.
the corals seem pretty good for the most part...(other than the xenia being a little temperamental at times).
<your fish and corals should be fine for now but the corals will reproduce pretty rapidly (especially the xenias!) and sting other species. I would just keep an eye on the growth since you will not want corals invading and killing other species in your aquarium. it looks like you researched well before you set it up. kudos to you! and good luck, IanB>

Lemonpeel or Midas Touch  08/15/2008
Hello Crew,
Thanks for all the help you guys have guided me in the past.
I currently have a 125G tank with DSB, 70lbs of live rock, 46G Sump that's been up for nearly 9months flawlessly. . I currently have a powder brown tang (japonicus) 5inches, blue hippo tang 4inches, maroon clownfish, 1 purple firefish and 2 cardinal fish. I've stopped at that amount of rock to allow the tangs good swimming room to completely swim side to side with plenty of room to move around. I also have 2 stalks of xenia, 3 semi-large groupings of frogspawn, a flower pot coral, and some 5 different types of Stylophora coral. I was thinking about adding either a Lemonpeel angel or a midas blenny. I've heard that Lemonpeels nip at LPS,
<Some do>
but do they nip at frogspawn and flower pots?
<Again, some>
I've also heard that Midas
Blennies sometimes attack firefish. Is that true?
<Yes>
One other question is
do xenia and Stylophora have stinging cells?
<Not so much the pulsing corals, but definitely the stony corals>
I have them quite close to
each other.
Thanks for all your Help.
Frank
<If so, have likely "gotten used" to each others company. See WWM re Cnidarian compatibility: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
and elsewhere re the specific groups you house. Bob Fenner>

55 Hex Cycling/Stocking Questions, Marine, Reef    7/23/08
Hi, I have a 55 gallon hex reef tank that has been up for
about 5-6 months now and is about to enter big stocking stages. It has a sand bed of about 3-4 in all around and 60 lbs live rock. There is a built-in sump/refug in the back with a Rio 800 powerhead flowing back into the tank, a protein skimmer that came with the tank (works great), 2-65 watt actinic lights and 1-175 watt 14,000K MH. There
is also a Koralia 2 (600gph) pump in the tank.
<Ok, may want to add more flow, a tall tank like this needs lots of it.>
I currently have 3 chromis', 2 snails, 2 hermit crabs, a conch, and a red-spotted blenny. I just got the blenny about 4 days ago.
<Ok>
I have a pair of true perculas
(~2in) waiting for me at my LFS but I am not sure whether or not to get a Sebae or BTA for them at the same time, before, or after I put them in the tank. From some sources, it seems Sebae Anemones are hard to take care of or might be too big for my tank.
<No anemones are easy to take care of, just degrees of difficulty.>
I like BTAs, but the only one they have available (until possibly next week) are the peach-colored regular ones (non-GBTA, non-RBTA). I’d prefer a GBTA, but I’m not sure whether the clownfish would prefer their anemone when introduced, or later, or whether it even matters at all.
<If they are captive bred they very well may not host in it at all, and really all do fine without one.>
Would the True Perculas be more likely to host in the Sebae, or the BTA, as perculas don’t host either one naturally in the wild?
<It's a crap shoot.>
Is a Sebae Anemone more aggressive and more likely to hurt my future LPS and SPS corals?
<I would pick either anemones or corals, not both in this sized tank, a recipe for problems combining them.>
Stocking Options
My other questions have to do with stocking the tank. The 3 blue-green chromis’ have been in there for several months now, mostly because I just couldn’t stand watching an entirely empty tank for so long. I have sort of grown attached to them (being the only fish I had for months, and I hate taking fish back to the store, especially when they’ve done nothing wrong), but I think I can part with them if it means I could put something that I dearly want in their place.
<Ok>
I plan on putting the following in the tank:
2 Coral Banded Shrimp (mated pair)
2 Feather Dusters
2-3 Christmas Tree Worms
<Generally do poorly in captivity.>
1 Blue Linckia Starfish
<Skip it, will starve. A serpent star would be a much better choice. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/linckiastars.htm >
2 True Percula Clownfish
1 Anemone (species to be announced)
<Would skip as stated above.>
Many Corals (SPS and LPS, plus 1 Brain
Coral (Trachyphyllia radiata))
<In a hex tank like this where lighting is going to be difficult, chose carefully and stock lightly.>
My question is what other fish can I put in and not be
overstocked? Other possible additions
(obviously not all) I was thinking of involved the following:
1 of the following:
Green Clown Goby (Gobiodon atrangulatus)
<Can be difficult to feed.>
Midas Blenny (Ecsenius midas)
Flametail Blenny (Atrosalarias sp.)
Bicolor Blenny (Ecsenius bicolor)
Red Scooter Blenny (Synchiropus stellatus)
<Not a blenny, a dragonet, will starve in this size tank. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mandarins.htm >
Firefish Goby (Nemateleotris magnifica)
Starry Blenny (Salarias ramosus)
Horned Blenny (Parablennius sp.)
Blue Tuxedo Urchin (Mespilia globulus)
<Can be a bit of a bulldozer, may be problematic with corals.>
1 of the following:
Yellow Knobby Cucumber (Colochirus robustus)
Velvet Nudibranch (Chelidonura varians)
<Nudibranchs generally do poorly in captivity, would skip.>
Sea Hare (Aplysia punctata)
<Can be a problem "inking" a tank.>
Lettuce Nudibranch (Tridachia crispata)
<See above>
Tiger Tail Cucumber (Holothuria hilla)
Psychedelic Mandarinfish (Synchiropus picturatus)
<Skip, same problem as the scooter blenny.>
1 of the following:
Blue Head Fairy Wrasse -
Cirrhilabrus cyanopleura
<At 6 inches it is getting pretty big for a hex.>
Six Line Wrasse (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia)
Blue Star Leopard Wrasse (Macropharyngodon bipartitus)
McCosker's Flasher Wrasse, Male (Paracheilinus mccoskeri)
Banggai Cardinal (Pterapogon kauderni)
<Try to find captive bred.>
Yellow Stripe Clingfish (Diademichthys lineatus)
Flame Hawkfish (Neocirrhites armatus)
<May do a number on small fish and clean-up crew.>
Which of the Gobies/Blennies will not get along with my Red-Spotted Blenny?
<Most should be ok, but in the limited space of a hex I would stick with one bottom dweller.>
Could I possibly try to get another red-spotted blenny of the opposite sex and make a pair?
<Most likely could.>
Will the Tuxedo Urchin take up that much space? Will he knock over a lot of LR? Could he damage corals?
<Has been known to happen.>
Are any of the Nudibranchs/cucumbers I listed safe for the reef?
<Cukes should be ok if proper steps are taken, skip the nudis.>
Do any of them release toxins into the tank when stressed or dying like sea apples?
<Holothurin, http://www.wetwebmedia.com/seacukes.htm >
Could the Mandarinfish get bothered by one of the gobies I listed, or my red-spotted blenny?
<Skip the mandarin.>
Are even any of those wrasses not okay for a peaceful hex tank of my size?
<Wrasses can be a bit boisterous, but so can the clowns. Some 6-lines are just down right mean.>
How aggressive do Flame Hawkfish get in a reef environment with many of the other organisms I have listed?
<Can get quite aggressive.>
Sorry, I know it’s a long
list…there’s just a lot of great-looking fish/inverts out there.
<Yep, if you have not pick up Scott Michael's book, "Marine Fishes" give it a shot, http://search.barnesandnoble.com/Marine-Fishes/Scott-W-Michael/e/9781890087388 >
Cycling
Also, as a final question, I recently realized that a piece of skinny plate live rock would go perfect as a shelf in the tank, but I am worried about it cycling the tank when I already have fish in there (and soon to have clowns). Are there any tips or ways I could minimize the effect of adding a new piece of live rock into the tank? It would only be 1 piece of rock.
<Most likely will not cause a problem, but if worried cycle it in a QT tank or bucket.>
My params have been stable for a long time now
Nitrites: 0 ppm
Nitrates: 0 ppm
Ammonia: 0-0.1 ppm
Salinity: 1.025
And my temp swings from 77 at its lowest (at night) to about 81 at its highest (in the day).
<I would set the heater a little higher to minimize this swing.>
Also, should I be running my actinic lights at the same time as my MH?
<Can>
Or can I only
them on an hour before and for an hour after my MHs? Also, I have a black light for nighttime. Any fish/corals/inverts that look cool under black lights?
<Many, however many fish can see ultra-violet light, so do not leave it on too much.>
Thanks so much for the help.
<Welcome>
-Aaron
<Chris>

Query Marine Setup, 7/20/08
Hi
<Hello>
I have a 150 litre salt water tank running with:
1 Clown Fish;
Yellow Tang;
<Needs a bigger tank.>
10 kilos live rock;
2 Banded Shrimp;
2 Anemones;
2 soft corals;
<May have problems with allelopathy combining corals and anemones in this sized tank.>
1 Red Stripped Sand-sifting Gobi; and
1 Valentino Puffer.
I am running the system with the following:
Berlin Air Lift 90 Gallon Skimmer;
Deep Sand Bed Filter;
Wet and Dry Trickle Filter;
Refugium (with live rock, sand and Caulerpa).
I am currently running the system in this order, I was wondering if this is the best and most effective order to run it in?
<Should be fine.>
Also, can you recommend, or is my current skimmer the best for my system?
<Generally with skimmers you get what you pay for, see here for more on the more common models, http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/cav1i1/protein_skimmer_impressions.htm .>
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers!
Shaun
<Chris>

Reef tank – Triggerfish Behavior and Ideas for Shoaling Fish Addition – 07/15/08
Thanks for the great website!
<<Thanks for using it!>>
I was hoping to get a stocking suggestion as well as advice on odd fish behavior.
<<Okey-dokey>>
First, the tank stats: 250 gallon show tank, 50 gallon fuge, 150 gallon sump, SPS only
<<Very nice>>
....will have LPS in future, Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate: 0, calcium: 400, alkalinity: 3.5, Mg: not measured.
<<Okay>>
SG had been consistently kept at 1.025, but we purchased a refractometer recently and realized SG was actually 1.029!
<<Mmm, doesn’t automatically mean it is correct…do make sure the refractometer is calibrated/accurate>>
We have been gradually decreasing this with the goal of 1.025 in another week or so. The tank cycled for about a month with live rock from our established tank as well as some new rock....about 200 pounds total. Rock is arranged in two mounds with the center and sides open to allow plenty of water columns for swimming.
<<Excellent>>
Fish were added about four weeks ago and include a Naso tang (6 inches), Two Bar Rabbitfish (6 inches), Yellow Tang (5 inches), pair of Sebae clowns, and a Sargassum Triggerfish (5 inches).
<<Neat>>
All the fish had been living in our other tank for several years except the Sargassum Triggerfish, which was added at the same time as the other fish after a 10-week quarantine.
<<Why so long I wonder…4 weeks should have been plenty>>
The SPS (also from the old tank) has grown an amazing amount for only being in there a month. LPS, additional SPS, cleaner shrimp, peppermint shrimp, and a Mandarin Dragonet (3 inches) will be added from the old tank after the new one has stabilized a bit more.
Question 1: The fish show zero aggression toward each other even during feeding time. They eat a flake diet from an automated feeder plus thawed fish/shrimp goodies several times a week.
<<I very much urge you to have a look at adding New Life Spectrum pellets to this diet. This is a highly nutritious and very palatable food that all your fishes (with the possible exception of the dragonet) will enjoy and benefit from>>
The Sargassum Triggerfish spends nearly all his/her time in one corner of the tank near the surface of the water swimming into the glass with his mouth.
<<Hmm…>>
He leaves the area to eat flake and seafood, but then returns to his spot. If we are working in the tank, he leaves his spot to come check out what we are doing. I know it's possible he is merely looking at his reflection, but I fear he is just really bored!
<<A possibility I suppose…with this very intelligent family of fishes>>
Crazy question, but any suggestions for entertaining an intelligent, bored triggerfish short of putting on a leash for a walk or throwing him a ball?
<<In my experience, this genus of Triggerfish seems to enjoy having a “cave” to call its own to clean/maintain and from which to rest/poke it’s head out and watch the world go by. Perhaps some subtle rearrangement of the rockwork is in order>>
Question 2: We would like to add a small harem of 3 to 5 fish. We are looking for something pretty, non-aggressive, small (less than 4 inches), and not horribly expensive (less than $200 for 3 maybe???).
<<Less than $200 for a trio!!! Now you’re just being impossible… [big-grin]>>
Sooo, any suggestions?
<<Indeed…a species of Cardinalfish>>
The only fish we could think of are anthias or wrasses, but the anthias all seem to be horrible keepers and the wrasse all seem to be a bit large.
<<And haremic/schooling behavior form either species is not guaranteed in even a tank of a couple hundred gallons-plus, such as you have. With the fishes you have already, the very best Anthiine species for your tank would be a trio of Lyretail Anthias (Pseudanthias squamipinnis)…but these are a large species that can/will get to be a bit more than 4-inches. As for a suitable Wrasse trio, I would look to the smaller Flasher Wrasse species like the McCosker’s Flasher Wrasse (Paracheilinus mccoskeri) or the Carpenter’s Flasher Wrasse (Paracheilinus carpenteri)…both make for exquisite displays, though they are “jumpers”>>
Any other ideas for three small peaceful fish?
<<Actually, I think a half-dozen Pajama Cardinals (Sphaeramia nematoptera) would be a nice addition…or for something a bit smaller, 6-10 Longspine Cardinals (Apogon leptacanthus)>>
We had ranked Scott's Fairy Wrasse high on the list.
<<Is a possibility…but is less likely to “get along” with conspecifics…and will get larger than 4-inches>>
Thanks again for all the help!
<<Happy to share>>
Love reading the dailies!
<<Me too!>>
Michele
<<EricR>>

Re: Reef tank - Triggerfish Behavior and Ideas for Shoaling Fish Addition - 07/17/08
Thanks for the info!
<<Welcome…I hope it was of use>>
We are leaning toward the McCosker's Flasher Wrasses.
<<Spectacular little fish…but are prone to jumping, especially if harassed at all>>
I am not familiar with the Longspine Cardinals, but we will take a look at them.
<<The photos on the WEB don’t quite do them justice…hopefully you can check them out “in person”>>
Sooo, I must explain why we did a TEN week quarantine.
<<Okay>>
We fully intended on a four week QT and bought the fish ahead of the tank move so all fish could be added together. The plumbing (it's crazy, sump and fuge in a separate room, frag tank, etc.) took far longer than hubby anticipated.
<<Ah yes, I do understand>>
Funny thing is the trigger seemed less stressed in the very small quarantine tank than in the big tank.
<<Hmm…>>
He has plenty of caves to choose from and I assume he sleeps in one at night, but I have not found his lights out spot yet.
<<Maybe well hidden… I do hope the Naso Tang isn’t picking at the Trigger and you just haven’t caught it (Naso Tangs “can” be terrors…and at the least, yours is, or soon will be, “king” of this realm>>
He is quite funny and comes to the glass in front of anyone who approaches the tank.
<<Does seem like it is “bored”… The tank is certainly large enough at 250-gallons…I suspect this fish will self-adjust to its environment soon>>
Could he just be more interested in watching what's going on in the room more than hanging out with the other fish?
<<Maybe so…and maybe this tank is too sparsely populated for its liking and the addition of more fish may elicit a change in behavior. But is all speculation…>>
Thanks for advice on calibrating the refractometer. How great would that be to decrease our SG and find out it was right all along!
<<Indeed… Very important to do so with a “new” measurement device such as this…and then periodically thereafter>>
Have a great day!
Michele
<<You too! Eric Russell>>

Stocking... adding to a 120 gal. reef   7/4/08
I currently have a VERY peaceful 45 gallon tank with: 5 clown gobies, two ocellaris clowns (paired), a yellow watchman goby and peppermint shrimp.
(live rock, assorted snails and hermits, some soft corals/zoos/mushrooms) 
I will be upgrading my tank to at least 120 g now that a renovation project in the house is complete. Tank will also have a refugium for pods and spaghetti algae, and sump.
I have been planning for the new tank and am looking at possible new fish for the tank. (I love gobies and blennies-great personalities-- but I know I have a lot already) I will likely be adding new and getting rid of a few of my existing corals (some are now too big--probably stick with softies-zoos-mushrooms) The fish I have now are pretty low key--with only the clowns making any real movement in the tank (clown gobies perch on the coral and watchman hides--unless it is feeding time)
<What they do>
I have ruled out tangs as possible tank mates (ick magnets)
Dwarf angels (pick on coral and inverts)
Flame Hawkfish (pick on microfauna & inverts)
Fish I am considering are:
*Green banded gobies (possibly a couple-they say they are good in groups)
<Yes>
*Green chromis (a small group)
*Mandarin -1 (had one before that was eating brine shrimp and doing fine until ick outbreak/disaster in tank several years ago.
*McCosker's flasher wrasse (1) or Longfin fairy wrasse (1)
*Yellow headed Jawfish (1 or 2--will plan for extra deep sand bed if I go this route--buy a deeper tank-set up rocks for maximum stability)
*Firefish (only one)
<Most species are better in twos>
*Rainford goby (1) (although it may compete with mandarin for microfauna)
<Not much, or too much in a volume of this size>
*Twin spot blenny (1)
*Second pair of ocellaris (small, black) not sure whether this would work out - they would go in at the same time existing clowns moved to new tank *Additional clown gobies (have green, yellow and black--still some other color choices--and these guys have been fine together) Would likely add new fish (after quarantine of course) when others are moved to new tank
<Gobiodons do live in and on stony corals... mostly Acroporids... do sometimes fight amongst themselves>
I know I should be looking for fish that won't be competing for the bottom of the tank (and the above list contains quite a few that hang at the bottom). Also want to avoid fish that feed heavily on microfauna, since I want to add the mandarin eventually.
Are there any fish from the above list that you would rule out as compatible with my existing fish, and do you have any other suggestions as to possible tank mates.
<Mmm, my comments above>
Thanks for all the work on the website helping people in this hobby. I know I have learned a great deal from the site over the past 5 years.
Maureen
<A pleasure to aid your success, endeavours, enjoyment. Bob Fenner>

New tank stocking, Reef   6/30/08
Hi I have recently setup a new 180g reef tank and it has just finished cycling. I have some questions about adding fish and in what order would be best. I am worried that because the liverock is not very established the fish wont have anything to eat.
<Then... I'd be patient and wait till there is such>
I currently have 2 Banggai cardinals and a copper banded butterfly that appear to be eating fine. I want to add a blue hippo tang, a mandarin dragonet, blue throat trigger, and a flame angel to the tank eventually but am lost when it comes to when to add each and in what order. could you help me out. Cory Bader
<In this sized volume... in a few months... the trigger and angel last. Bob Fenner>

Livestock question for 60 gallon marine aquarium 6/25/08
Good afternoon Great Sages of the Marine Aquarium World,
<That's what I'm talking about... Oh, hi>
I would first like to thank you for your wonderful website. I have used it and my copy of CMA to build my marine knowledge for the past two years. Both have kept me from making big mistakes, or helping me to fix the smaller ones.
<Heeee! Know what you mean>
Now this is my first message to you and I would like your advice.
<Ok>
I received a 60 gallon marine aquarium complete with a 16" Snowflake eel I named "Frosty" for Father's Day. The tank also came with a few hermit crabs and some burrowing snails. I even received the cycled water. Everyone is fine and in good health.
60 gallon acrylic 48" Long x 15" Wide x 20" Tall
100 lbs of LR
protein skimmer
300gph filter
3 power heads
stealth heater
315w pc, ½ white, ½ actinic
Having kept a nano reef for two years, I am looking forward to creating a larger reef system of a few fish, soft coral, and sps coral. I have in the plans a 20 gallon refugium and a larger skimmer to add to the current setup.
With Frosty being the first resident of the tank and not really wanting to get rid of him, I am looking for suitable tankmates. After all the reading and suggestions this is the list came up with.
Maroon Clown (another species would be ok. Just not eaten)
<Mmm, Premnas do get quite large, mean... this would have to become the alpha fish here... If you get, I'd add last>
Wrasse (Fairy, Canary yellow, Flasher)
<Good choice>
Damsel (3/4 line)
<Ok>
Fancy Sea Bass
<Check out the species... Serranocirrhitus is about the only suitable as single... this sys. is too small for most... others need to be in groups>
Large snails or crabs (Frosty won't think they're a snack)
<Mmm, I'd skip till post-Frosty>
Cleaner shrimp
<Read on WWM re>
I would really appreciate any suggestions on livestock or coral.
Best Regards,
Sasha
<Read on my friend, read on. Bob Fenner>

Help keep my dream from becoming a nightmare 6/25/08
Hi all. I have a question about stocking choices. I have a 120 gallon ( 48X24X24) Oceanic Tech series tank with a MegaFlow Model 4 ( 36X14X19 ) sump. In the tank I have a live sand bed about 2-4 inches depending on the area of the tank where measured, as well as 150+ lbs of live rock. I do weekly 10%-15% water changes. My water parameters are all good, the only measurable pollutant being a nitrate level of about 0-5ppm.
<No big deal>
I have a clean up crew as suggested by ReefCleaners.org and my tank is crystal clear and relatively free of algae. Currently I have a variety of Acropora, Stylophora, Pocillopora (about 10 in all) as well as a Duncan Whisker and an Australian Acanthastrea Lord. I currently house a 4 inch purple tang, (2) 2 inch tomato clowns, a Yellowfin flasher wrasse, and have a 3-4 inch female Bellus angel in quarantine. I want to add a couple more fish and wanted to get your opinion of my choices for both compatibility as well as stocking level. First, a Midas Blenny.
Second, a Blackcap Basslet. Possibly a Bluespotted Jawfish ( not sure about sand depth ). Lastly, a Flame or Lemonpeel Angel. I've considered adding all or some of these fish. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Shawn G.
Baltimore, MD
<Mmm, sounds like a very nice system thus far... I'd make a choice between the Ecsenius and Gramma... too likely to fight... the Jawfish will go fine here, but likely need more fine substrate in a particular area (can be put in a glass or polyethylene, i.e. chemically-inert) tray or such...) and do make sure all exit holes are screened... The Centropyge choices are fine here as well. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Re: Custom 85 Gallon, reef set-up/stkg.  6/20/08
Bob
<Meyer>
Thanks for your quick response...
<Welcome>
Current corals consist of LPS, Zoanthids, Kenya Tree, Blastomussa, mushrooms and Open Brain. I plan on sticking with these types of low to medium light requirement species.
I may look at a sponges and gorgonians once the new tank has a chance to cycle.
<Mmm, do read re the needs and compatibility of what you list here>
The current fish that I have that will be housed in the new tank are a Yellow Tang, two Yellow Tail Damsels, a Three Striped Damsel and a variety of reef critters that include snails, Sand Sifting Starfish, Red Legged Hermits and a Black Cucumber for detritus removal. My hope is that my local fish store will be able acquire a Aquillies Tang for me. So far, no luck.
<... And re Achilles Tangs. BobF>

Reef Tank Temperature, Livestock, and General Advice – 06/20/08
I have a 55 gallon reef I retrofitted w- 325 watts of Coralife compact fluorescent ½ 10K & ½ Actinic (sufficient for corals below)
<<Mmm, is debatable…I prefer to see a 70-30 mix of 10K to Actinic lighting…a 50-50 mix may look nice, but it is not as “useful” to the photosynthetic organisms>>
under a hood w- a rear opening. I have 2 cooling fans salvaged (so not sure the CFM) from an old PC, one @ each end, one inlet & one exhaust.
<<A useful employment>>
The temperature consistently stays @ 82 degrees.
<<This is not “terrible” in my opinion>>
Prior to adding the fans it spiked to 86 & I lost 2 clown fish.
<<Hmm, would have expected this to be more of a problem to your corals than your fishes…perhaps there are/were other aggravating circumstances>>
My question is can I get away w- the 82 degrees since there is not a swing in temperature?
<<It is my opinion that, yes, you can. This may not be an “ideal” temperature as touted by many…but it is certainly “survivable” in my experience…and maybe even more “natural,” if you’ve ever heard/read Dr. Ron Shimek. As far as temperature goes, I’ve been diving off the Big Island of Hawai’i a few times now (and talking/thinking about it…getting the urge to go again!) and the water temperature was during those visits was 82F…and not just at the surface but down to about a 100ft depth. I would also like to add that my own reef system often sees temperatures of up to 85F (with no mortalities re) during the hot summer months here in SC>>
It seems to be pushing the limits I see published for acceptable range but I have also read in more than one source that the swing is more important than the actual temperature.
<<That too is debated by some, but having to take unknown factors/possible aggravating circumstances in to consideration would deem some measure of stability to be a good thing. In other words…for captive systems, it may be best to keep the “straws” that could break the camel’s back to a minimum>>
How much affect does ambient air temperature actually have?
<<It does have an effect…but the heat producing devices of the system (pumps, lights, etc.) are generally an overriding factor>>
We keep the house @ about 76-78 degrees but I could possibly add a window unit in this room (assuming I can ever get the window unstuck).
<<You would likely need to keep the room uncomfortably cool to have much effect here. But adding more/more powerful fans to step up evaporative cooling is certainly an option…I would put one over your sump as well>>
Filtration & Flow:
50 pounds live rock w- 1" sand bed
Wet / Dry w- filter pad & Seachem Purigen & PhosGuard & charcoal (plan to replace PhosGuard & charcoal w- Seachem's SeaGel)
Could I put the media in the overflow or should they stay where the bio balls would go? No bio balls.
<<I would keep this where you have it. I am not a fan of placing items within/restricting overflows>>
Excalibur SV1 skimmer in sump
600 GPH return
2 600 GPH Koralia 2 in opposite top corners
1 600 GPH power head next to overflow behind the rock ¾ of way down tank. The overflow is off-center @ about 1/3 of the tank length.
Is the above sufficient when compared w- the info above & below?
<<Livestock incompatibilities aside…yes>>
Inhabitants as follows:
2 Peppermint Shrimp
2 False Perc's
1 Brittle Star
6 Red Leg Hermits
20ish Astrea (increase)
Green Sinularia
Xenia
Finger Leather (Lobophytum)
Green Stripe Mushroom (Actinodiscus)
Bubble Coral (Plerogyra sinuosa)
Ruffled Ridge (Turbinaria)
Candy Cane (Caulastrea)
Green Star Polyp (Briareum)
Pink Tip Anemone (Condylactis, (passiflora or gigantea not sure))
<<Mmm…trouble waiting…in this mix of sessile inverts>>
Mistake w- the anemone? It is new.
<<In my opinion…yes. This tank is too small and likely too densely populated for such an animal. I predict problems one way or the other>>
Water parameters:
Salinity 1.023 (should I raise slightly?)
<<Yes…closer to NSW levels of 1.025/1.026>>
Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite consistently 0
Calcium 420
Carbonate Hardness KH 8
PH 8.2-8.3
Would like to add to tank:
1 Six Line Wrasse (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia)
<<Can be a terror in this relatively small system…even if added last>>
1 Lawnmower Blenny (Salarias fasciatus)
<<Again…the size of the tank may preclude this fish getting enough to eat/being able to meet its nutritional requirements>>
1 Royal Gramma (Gramma loreto)
<<An excellent choice for this size system>>
2 Kaudern's Cardinal's (Pterapogon kauderni)
Would the additional livestock on the wish list be too much for this tank & do you see any compatibility issues?
<<You don’t list any “current” piscine livestock…if that is the case then no, not “too” much…otherwise, compatibility issues are already noted>>
I think I may have done too much to fast but have had no major problems as of yet. Would definitely like your opinion of the overall system & any advice on changes that may need to be made.
<<Your “mechanicals” seem fine, though “I” would likely upgrade the skimmer to a suitable Euro-Reef or AquaC model. And you have my thoughts on your livestock as well>>
Thanks for all you do, your site has been my best source of information.
<<Is quite the collective effort…we are pleased you have found it to be of benefit. Regards, EricR>>

Stocking Plan & Clean-Up Crew Questions, SW... reef...  06/06/2008
Good evening,
<Sean>
I've been researching for many months in preparation for setting up my new tank. Your site, with its articles and FAQs, has been an absolutely fantastic resource along the way. This is the first time I've actually asked any questions, so I've been saving up quite a few along the way.
I hope I'm not using up my quota here...
<Not even close>
Background and proposed fish plan:
My tank, which is cycling now, is 110 gallons with 110 lbs. of LR and a 2-3" sand bed.
<Some might say a "tweener"... that this bed should be either shallower or deeper>
The 15 gallon sump includes mechanical filtration, carbon, protein skimmer, heater and poly filter. Also considering a UV sterilizer, refugium and/or chiller if they appear necessary. I'm using an RO/DI to filter the water used in the tank. Here are my "must" haves
(showing max. adult size):
* Dwarf Zebra Lionfish (7")
* Lemon Butterflyfish (5")
* Flame Angel (4")
* Coral Beauty Angel (4")
* True Percula Clown (4") OR Maroon Clown (6")
* LPS Corals
Questions about the fish plan:
* Would the percula be big enough to avoid the lion's menu if I get it first and give it a head start on growth? The FAQs weren't clear.
<A bit of a gamble... as these Lions can really "open up" their mouths>
* If the percula is too small, I can go with the maroon, but is that too aggressive for the butterfly, even if I get the butterfly first and give it plenty of time to settle in before introducing the maroon?
<Premnas are always a wild card... if it's allowed to be the alpha fish here, there are many "bommies" of coral (vs. the usual stacked wall), there should be little problem...>
* If the percula is not too small, would a pair be OK? I understand that, in a pair, one stays smaller, so I wonder if the smaller would be at risk...?
<With the Lion, yes>
* I realize that there is some risk to the LPS from the butterfly and the two angels. Is this mostly a matter of limited growth/appearance if nipping occurs, or will I lose the nipped LPS?
<Good odds here of there being minimal damage... the tank is big enough, and there is sufficient forage on the 110 # of rock>
If one or more of the fish decide to nip, is it likely to be with all my LPS, or would some be safe (in which case I could just remove any that are under attack)?
<Yes... to the sump/refugium easily>
Questions about the clean-up crew for this setup:
* Starfish -- Would serpent, brittle and Fromia stars provide sufficient detritus removal, sand shifting and algae control (in combination with the above fish) that I shouldn't need snails, hermits or other crabs?
<Mmm, yes... do read re their suitable selection, use... I would eschew sandsifting stars here>
* Hermits & Snails -- From one FAQ, it appears that these should be OK, since their shells are too hard for the lion to eat. Even if the stars could handle the load, would you still recommend some hermits and/or snails? In particular, would it make sense to still use Nassarius snails to stir the sand?
<I do like Nassarius... there is some chance of a Lion inhaling both groups... and am not a fan of necessarily myself...>
* Other Crabs -- From one FAQ, it appears that a large emerald crab would not be on the lion's menu. Would the same hold true for a large sally lightfoot crab, since they appear to reach the same 3" max size?
<Again, I would take care in introducing decapods... they are destructive>
* Coral Banded Shrimp (CBS) vs. a Wrasse for keeping bristle worms in check - I saw one FAQ indicating that a dwarf lion probably wouldn't bother a large CBS and another indicating that a CBS would definitely be lunch. Is it really a matter of luck?
<To a degree, yes. When it molts... is fair game esp.>
The other alternative frequently noted in FAQs is adding a wrasse. With a dwarf lion, is a 5" wrasse big enough to avoid being inhaled?
<S/b, yes>
If so, which of the following would be your choice for handling bristles and possibly flatworms without harassing the lion or butterfly: Melanurus, Yellow Coris, Puddingwife, Radiant, Neon, Pinkface (Five Stripe), Eightline?
<The Yellow Halichoeres/Coris>
I know wrasses like
to beat up snails, but would any of these leave the Nassarius snails in the sand alone?
<Likely so>
Between a wrasse and a CBS, what would be your recommendation in this setup?
<the Wrasses>
* Bubble Algae - From what I've come across, looks like Kole tangs and emerald crabs are the best for eating this. Which would you recommend in this setup?
<The Kole>
If the emerald won't get eaten, that would be my preference, since the Kole tang would tax the bio load and might be too aggressive for the butterfly and/or lion, though it would help with algae control in general.
Questions about a possible addition to the mix:
* Hawkfish -- Would an arc-eye be too aggressive for the lion and/or butterfly, or would a Longnose be better in this set-up without being at risk of becoming lionfish food?
<The Longnose>
Some of the FAQs seemed to indicate that some hawks like flame and Longnose would leave the larger shrimps (like CBS), hermits and other crabs (like emerald) alone. Would that hold true for the arc-eye as well as the Longnose?
<Mmm, no... all Cirrhitids are keen crustacean hunters, eaters>
Thanks VERY much for your help.
Sean
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Stocking, reef  - 6/3/08
Hello again everyone,
<Hello Marc>
I was just trying to get your professional opinion on stock for a 75 gallon tank.
<Well, not ‘professional’, but I’ll see if I can help. I sure love to opine!>
What I have right now is a maroon clown, a Firefish, three chromis, a chalk bass, three emerald crabs, a lawnmower blenny, a feather duster, a six-line wrasse, a cleaner shrimp and an assortment of snails and hermit crabs. I also have several soft corals, mostly mushrooms. For filtration I have a Remora Pro, 80 lbs of live rock and three Hydor water pumps. I do a ten to twenty percent water change once a week.
I was hoping to add a dwarf angel, probably a flame angel, or a coral beauty. If that bio load sounds reasonable, do you think I could add any of the following, two more Firefish, three more chromis, a flasher wrasse, a diamond goby, or a Kole tang? First and foremost, I would like to add the angel, if you think that would work, do you thing I could add anymore, or is that overkill? If so, which ones?
<Personally I’d stop where you are; your tank is pretty full right now. If your heart is set on bigger water changes and you’re ready to deal with possible territory issues, I think all options are equally weighted- with the exception of the tang. I am hesitant to recommend any tang in a 75, certainly not one with other large inhabitants. Another Firefish or two might be your best bet.>
And I'm sorry, just one more question.
<Answers are cheaper in bulk.>
I have some soft corals, mushrooms, polyps, and xenia. I have a Coralife compact fluorescent with two 65 watt bulbs. I want to add more light. I'm stuck between another light like I have now and still use the old one, or adding a t-5 fixture with four 54 watt bulbs, in your opinion, what light would I be better off with?
<Lighting is a complicated issue. The t-5 will give a better quality light watt for watt, but the PC will be less expensive. I’ve found that it’s always best to plan far ahead- upgrading to your top equipment right away saves a lot of money on intermediates. If you think you ever might want more light, you may wish to consider a larger t-5 setup. I’m sure other crew members have ideas about this as well, perhaps they will chime in. Like I mentioned, a complicated issue with a lot of divergent opinions.>
Thanks again for the help,
<No problem.>
Marc
<Benjamin>

Too many fish? Reef   4/19/08
Hey guys,
I've got an established 125 g reef tank with a 25 g sump, 130 lbs live sand and 125 lbs of live rock. My question is if you think I have too many fish?
5 chromis viridis
2 pajama cardinals
1 sixline wrasse
1 Rainford's goby
1 lawnmower blenny
2 twin spot gobies
2 firefish gobies
1 green clown goby
2 saddleback clownfish
1 orange shoulder tang
<May become a terror. Keep your eye on this fish>
1 Desjardins tang
1 fathead anthias
I change 10 gallons of water every week and I've never had any troubles with ammonia, nitrate or nitrite levels. I know it seems like alot
<No such word>
of fish, but I thought that many are so small, it is ok. The sad thing is, I want a mimic tang also. I think it's best I remember the old Japanese saying "Look at a passing beauty as you would a passing cloud."
thanks, Alan
<Good axiom. I think you'll be fine with what you have. Bob Fenner>

Picasso and Ricordea
Directions for stocking new mixed reef/fish/invert system 4-3-08
Hey Guys,
<<Joshua.>>
Got a few questions for you:
<<Okay.>>
First, I am planning over the next couple months to get my 80 gal reef tank up and running with a 4-5" DSB and live rock. I wanted to run my possible fish ideas by you and see if you saw any major conflicts.
<<Okay.>>
1-2 Yellowheaded Jawfish, a couple neon gobies, a couple Falcula Butterflies,
<<I would not go with more than one.>>
1-2 fairy wrasse and the real iffys---a hippo tang
<<Skip the latter in this size tank.>>
and a really small Picasso Trigger.
<<I foresee possible aggression/predation issues in the long term…particularly with the more benthic fish, like the Jawfish and the goby.>>
The game plan is to let everything settle in their nooks for a while before thinking about adding the tang and/or trigger.
<<I would forget about the former and reconsider the latter, at least perhaps a different species. For any trigger 80 gallons is pushing it to be honest, I would not feel comfortable letting an adult live out his life in this size a tank…especially with other tank mates.>>
There will be lots of nooks and crannies for fish to hide in my aquascape.
<<…..If your trigger doesn’t rearrange it as he ages, hehe.>>
I don't know much yet about the hippo tang,
<<I encourage you to research it, by all means gain knowledge, but in the end I would surmise you too will see it is not a good match for your aquarium.>>
but according to what I've read, the Picasso wont really harm my reef as they feed mostly on shrimp and stuff. how reliable is that if I am diligent to keep it fed and healthy?
<<As far as predatory behavior goes, the trigger would much rather have crustaceans, bivalves and slow moving fish over cnidarians. However, this does not exclude them from “playing” with or abusing your Cnidarian life by attacking/moving them directly or the underlying rockwork. In particular if you get into stony corals it may use them as a dog uses a dried bone. The point? There is a risk.>>
Will he or the tang try to eat any corals I would like to add?
<<The tang? Not very likely, the trigger? See above.>>
Second, my tank is 21" deep counting the DSB and according to my math, I am totally unsure whether I should wait and invest in metal halide or stay with power compact.
<<Either way I would not go with PowerCompact, the design of the bulb itself is somewhat flawed for this application. The bent back on itself design literally causes the bulb to cook itself, and the lumens depreciate very quickly. This means you would have to replace the bulbs every 6 to 9 months for optimal par ratings. Besides that, aesthetically, they don’t produce the color that T-5HO or VHO produce. If you go the route of florescent lighting look into T-5 HO. As far as what lighting I would pick for you? It really depends on the targeted photosynthetic, zooxanthellae hosting animals you plan to keep.>>
I would like to have both SPS and LPS eventually but would around 550 watts from 4 x 64 watt power compact be ok?
<<See my above comments re:. Look into Sanjay Joshi Articles for an in depth look. For what you are aiming for a think x2, 150 watt DE MH would be good, supplemented by T-5HO fluorescents. HOWEVER, that is a VERY general guide, please research diligently and pick a lighting system that best matches.>>
Lastly, I have a beautiful Ricordea floridae that has grown green/blue and beautiful. Recently I accidentally acquired an annoying white sponge with a hair like crown that is multiplying like crazy. A large one was growing on rock under my Ricordea so I used a pair of Needlenose to gently lift up its size and pull out the sponge. Now my Ricordea has folded in half away from that side and has stayed like that for a month now. Tried relocating just leaving it alone but nothing has changed it. What should I do?
<<Sponges like corals, are very adept in secreting allopathic compounds, Best you can do is provide optimal water parameters and run some extra carbon.>>
Thanks for all your help! Its priceless!
<<Welcome.>>
Josh
<<Adam J.>>

Tank stocking, Emperor Angel  – 04/1/08
Good morning crew..
Do you think I could add a Juvenile Imperator Angel to this community? I'd add it last. I am also aware that this fish may not be suitable for reef systems.
<A 210 gal. will ultimately be too small (a few years), and not very reef "safe" no. B>

Tank stocking, reef    4/1/08
Hello Bob
<Wayne>
Thank you for making your time and experience available to so many hobbyists. WetWebMedia is a great site. I've been using it for many years.
<Please send all corr. there... I automatically delete the vast maj. of "junk" that comes through here>
I'd appreciate your advice on a new tank I'm setting up.
I have a 210 that is cycling, with a 55gal refugium and AquaC EV-240 skimmer. 750 watts of MH lighting, and 156 watts of actinic lighting, and 220 lbs of LR. I ultimately plan on having a mixed reef, mostly LPS, and some SPS.
I've been working on a community list for my tank, and here is where I would appreciate your advise. I'm planning on keeping...
7 Blue Chromis
3 Resplendent Anthias (1 male, 2 females)
1 Purple Firefish
1 Helfrichi Firefish
1 Yellow Tang
1 Hippo Tang
2 Ocellaris Clownfish
2 Midas Blennies
I also intend to keep snails, shrimp and Serpent stars for a cleanup crew. All fish will be quarantined.
My question (s)...
In which order would you add the above fish?
<Damsels first, the Anthias last... the rest really don't matter much>
Do you think I could add any more fish than the above list?
<Yes>
Thanks - Wayne
<BobF>

Stocking order and capacity, reef   03/10/2008
Dear Crew,
<<G'Morning. Andrew today>>
Thanks very much for this site. I suspect it has saved thousands of fish from an early demise. I've been reading about marine fishkeeping (including your Conscientious book) for at least 5 years but finally got a tank when I had time and cash for it. My setup is a FOWLR with the following specifications: 72 gallon bowfront, about 10 gal sump with bioballs, skimmer, about 80 lbs of "pre-cured" LR, 90 lbs sugar quality aragonite sand, 700 gph Mag Drive pump, GFI, and compact fluorescents with LEDs for "moonlight." It's been curing for almost 3 weeks. "Vitals" have been stable at 78F, 1.022, pH 8.4, and nitrate 20-40ppm. No ammonia or nitrites have been detected.
<<Do I take this as your curing this in the display tank....AKA cycling?? If you are, are you using an ammonia source besides the die-off from the live rock? As you say you have not had any readings for ammonia and nitrite, I would say you need to provide an ammonia source.>>
I've got a trashcan full of heated saline in the basement, and my wife is already calling me a fish geek. The live rock seems healthy with lots of amphipods scurrying around, some small feather dusters, and some other small tube shaped worms that come out at night. I have no fish yet by my 2 year old and wife are READY . So am I. Finally to my questions.
1. Is this an ok stocking order:
Percula Clownfish (Amphiprion percula) (4'')
Firefish/Fire Goby (Nemateleotris magnifica) (3.5")
Royal Gramma (Gramma loreto) (4-5")
Coral Beauty Angel (Centropyge bispinosa) (4-5") OR Flame Angel (Centropyge loricula) (4-5")
Maybe Yellow Tang (Zebrasoma flavescens) (8") OR Purple Tang (Zebrasoma xanthurum) (4-9")
1-2 Skunk Cleaner Shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis)
<<I would say, if anything regarding the tangs, I would only add a yellow tang, and even at this, I would add this with a view that an upgrade "may" be needed in the future. No problems with the clowns, Firefish, Gramma or CB / FA>>
Sorry about the truncated email. I accidentally sent it. (Damn laptops). To continue:
possibly Orange Marble Starfish (Fromia monilis)
<<Ensure the star is well fed. Read more here and linked articles and FAQ's http://www.wetwebmedia.com/seastars.htm >>
2. Is this too much life for my current tank? I understand that the Angels and/or Tangs wouldn't be appropriate for at least 6 months. I'd actually like to keep more than one clownfish or Firefish but understand this is probably too much unless I cut out and Angel and/or Tang. The LR is supposed to be from Fiji.
<<See above comments above about stocking, take note of the tang comments. If it was me, I would leave the tangs completely...Make the clowns into a pair and have the rest....>>
Thanks in advance and keep up the great work, Dr. Rich
<<Thanks for the questions, hope this helps. A Nixon>>

Fish stocking suggestions, reading   3/9/08
Hi Crew,
<Jason>
I am considering changing my fish stocking profile for my 90 gallon reef and wanted your expert feedback on some suggestions I recently received. I'm looking for colorful fish that swim around and will be compatible with my current inhabitants. Most of my current fish are real hiders, and the clowns are breeding so they are very territorial.
Here's what I have now:
Pair b/w ocellaris (spend all day in their xenia host)
5 blue Chromis (stopped schooling, now hide)
Purple Pseudochromis (loves to hide!)
Bodianus bimaculatus (fairly active)
Flame angel (comes in and out)
Lawnmower blenny
First off, the Chromis have been somewhat of a disappointment. They mainly hang out at the back of the tank in two groups (the cool kids and the rejects), though they used to swim around a lot more. I am thinking of removing them (or all but one).
<Not solitary animals>
The suggestions I've had so far are:
Zebrasoma tangs
<One>
Fairy wrasse
<More than one...>
Flasher wrasse
<Ditto...>
Genicanthus angel
Rabbitfish
Any thoughts on one or more of these, or specific species recommendations?
Thanks!
Jason
<Posted... learn to/use the search tool, indices on WWM. Bob Fenner>

Question - fish selection..
Stocking Tradeoffs, reef  – 03/08/08
Hi there!
<Hiya! Scott F. in today!>
I love your site, and have been reading long and hard in trying to decide the fish I would like to stock. However, there is an absolutely amazing collection of fish out there, and a huge variety of ways to do things, so I would like to get inputs from others to see if this fish combination would work. From what I can tell, it should - but of course my LFS is always much more enthusiastic than I necessarily am.
<Well, it's nice to have an enthusiastic LFS! However, you need to use your judgment and gut instincts to make these decisions, so I commend you for doing additional research.>
I now have a 92 gallon corner bow-front tank (moved from a 29 in mid- November) containing the following:
Fish - 1 Purple Tang (Zebrasoma xanthurum), 1 Sixline Wrasse (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia), and as of today, 1 Bicolor Blenny (Ecsenius bicolor), who is scheduled to be in quarantine for the next month.
<Yaaayy! I'm thrilled to hear that you embrace the WWM "mantra" of quarantine. It's an easy, yet valuable procedure that will save you tons of heartache- and valuable animals!>
I know the Tang and Wrasse would usually be the last 2 in, but here they are the only 2 that moved from the 29...hence some of my questions.
Tank - About 60 pounds of LR, a DSB, a Tunze 9010 skimmer (I am aiming for moving it to a sump/refugium at Christmas), 1 each Hydor Koralia 2 and 3 powerheads, and a MaxiJet 1200 powerhead. and a variety of other critters - 4 Skunk Cleaner shrimp, 2 Blood Red shrimp, 1 or 2 Peppermint shrimp (they disappeared during the move, have recently reappeared), 3-4 hermit crabs (all that remains), a variety of snails (Astrea, an Olive, a Tiger Cowry, Nassarius, Ceriths, a small Conch, and several Margarita), a small blue Tuxedo Urchin, a simple gray- brown Brittle star, and 2 anemones (Eric identified them as Bunodosoma cavernata…the Warty Sea Anemone).
<That Eric guy knows his stuff, I tell ya!>
Corals - I have 2 Acroporas, 1 Stylophora, a Caulastrea, a Micromussa, 2 Fungia (1 orange, 1 green), a green Favia, an Acanthastrea, a very happy moon coral (Favites), some orange and black Tubastrea, and a small Lobophyllia (was a rescue, seems to be happy).
<A neat collection of more-or-less compatible corals...I like it. Do keep plenty of space between them, as some are a bit aggressive at night and can nettle each other.>
What I am curious about - some I have read about, some I have not...
1. Will the Blenny do well with a 3 week quarantine? Also, from everything I have read, it should get along fine with the other two fish - not the same zone, so they should mostly ignore each other, right?
<Wow- putting me on the spot, here! In theory, these fishes occupy slightly different niches and "strata" in the water column, and will not interact too much with each other. Of course, in the confines of the aquarium, the dynamic is vastly different and fishes do not always follow our behavioral expectations. If there are enough hiding places, I do not believe that you will have too many problems. However, the wrasse is known for being a bit of a tough customer at times, despite its diminutive size, so be sure to keep an eye on things. I have personally kept this wrasse with various Blennies without incident over the years.>
2. Would a Flame Angel (Centropyge loricula) and a group of 3 Canary Wrasses (Halichoeres chrysus) work with these 3 fish? I understand the Centropyge should be scrappy enough to contend with the Tang and Sixline Wrasse.
<It can work, but that would be it for stocking, as far as this aquarium is concerned. At some point, the Tang might need larger quarters, or could become a behavioral problem. I'd also be aware of the potential for the Angelfish to pick at your corals. If you're willing to accept this risk (as a Centropyge fanatic, I am!), it's a nice addition.>
But I haven't been able to find anything about how the Canary Wrasse would get along with the Sixline - are they dissimilar enough to get along? I do understand that, since I had my shrimp first, the Canary Wrasse should get along fine with them as long as I feed my tank well.
<Good thinking. I maintain several Halichoeres species wrasses (including the Canary) and a Pseudocheilinus tetrataenia without any problems, although my aquarium is larger and contains lots of hiding spaces for everyone. The shrimp are a potential meal, so it's a dice role regardless, IMO.>
Other fish I had looked at and discarded for one reason or another were the Hippo Tang (tank too small, wrong shape), the Bannerfish (Heniochus family - nips at corals, gets too big), Hawkfish (like shrimp - but so do I), Chromis (just can't get excited about them), and Anthias (haven't seen smaller ones that appeal)...so you can see I have been searching. But boy, the choices can be overwhelming!
<Yes they can, but you've done a nice job!>
Next, I am curious - I recently rearranged some of my rocks so I can do several things.
1. I am going to add a modified AquaClear 110 as a HOT refugium soon...I figure that should help with copepod production.
2. I want to add some sea grass in a corner of my tank. I have found very little information about this - is this possible (my tank is 24" deep), or would the seagrass overrun my tank? I am open to reading more about it - I haven't seen much so far that says I cannot do it, but don't know who has tried it either.
<Awesome! Seagrasses are great! They will generally not overrun your aquarium, as they are rather slow growing compared to many macroalgae. Check out www.theseanursery.com for good information from seagrass expert and hobbyist Sarah Lardizabal. An established, well fertilized substrate is a good idea before attempting grasses.>
3. Once I get my copepod production up some and get the DSB more mature, can I still add a Hector's Goby (Amblygobius hectori) without overloading my bioload?
<I would avoid this fish in this situation. You will be maxed out, and the food supply will be a challenge in all but the most established aquarium for this fish, IMO.>
I would greatly appreciate your input - you are always tremendously helpful with your information, and it's useful to get input other than just what my LFS recommends. I really enjoy reading the FAQs daily...and I love the variety of opinions expressed here, since I am definitely getting the impression that there are as many ways to do this as there are people who have tanks.
<Amen!>
Thanks tremendously for your help, Writing to you from snowy and cold Kentucky, and looking forward to learning more at MACNA in Atlanta,
Kerstin:-)
<Well, Kerstin, I'll see you there! I'm doing a presentation on marine biotope aquaria, and I will touch on some of the things that we've looked at here! Hope to chat with you then! Regards, Scott F.>

Bioload Question, reef  3/7/08
Been reading the site now for about 6 months, and learned a lot from this large data base of information.
I'm currently adding livestock to a 125 reef ready tank with a 55 sump under it, got a CPR refugium (25.5" L x 4.5" W x 12" T) and also have the sump set up as a refugium also.
<Sounds good.>
Have 3 skimmers operating all the time, Red Sea Berlin venturi (I know not the greatest but was cheap), AquaC HOT (old skimmer from old tank), and a DIY skimmer from your website.
Display has a 7" DSB, sump has a 5" DSB, approximately 260 pounds of live rock. Lighting is two Icecap 400Watt Metal halide 12k Coralview lights suspended 15" above water, Icecap 660 VHO with two 10k daylight bulbs, and two blue actinics. Running the lighting 12 hours a day, with the sump having two 75 watt bulbs running the opposite 12 hours. Main question is: I plan on adding a Sailfin Tang, Blue Hippo Tang, Orangefin Tang, (aware of possible fighting with tangs, will separate if becomes issue) mated pair of Maroon Clowns,
<These guys will not fit in with the rest of your choices, too aggressive.>
Flame Angel, Coral Beauty (aware of possible aggression with angels also), Yellow Head Jawfish, Black Cap Jawfish, Flame Hawk (aware is possible threat to shrimp), Royal Gramma, Green Mandarin. Plan on having several SPS, and LPSs corals, with some softies (running activated carbon on intake of sump). Do not plan on having an anemone due to not a fan of them roaming around and having a heyday with corals. Hoping to keep some clams,
<The angels may pick at the clams, reconsider.>
Long Spine Urchin, two Fire Shrimp, two cleaner shrimp, few Peppermint Shrimp. Any input on my system would be appreciated.
<Sounds OK to me seeing that you are aware of potential problems.>
Thanks
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
-Daniel

55 gallon reef stocking 03/06/2008
Hi all!
<<G'Morning, Andrew today>>
First off, I would like to thank you for the wonderful site - i have found many answers to many questions here.
<<Thanks for the kind words>>
I currently have a 55 gallon LPS reef, with about 60 lbs of live rock, 50 lbs live sand, newly acquired ASM g1-x. My current fish stock include 2 Perculas, 5 small chromis, 2 Firefish, and various cleanup artists...My question is do i have room to ad possibly a small wrasse and some kind of
sand sifting goby?
<<Size of your tank and stocking, i would suggest not>>
Which kind of goby would be best?
I have read that certain gobies such as the orange diamond goby can wreak havoc on a DSB - what are your thoughts? By the way, nitrates stay at about 5 - 10.
I appreciate the insight,
<<I think your stocking levels are at the maximum as you currently are and would not suggest adding anymore fish>>
Scott
<<Thanks for the questions, A Nixon>>