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FAQs on Fairy, Velvet Wrasses, Genus Cirrhilabrus Compatibility
Related Articles:
Fairy Wrasses, Related FAQs:
Velvet Wrasses 1, Velvet Wrasses 2, Velvet
Wrasses 3, Velvet Wrasse
Identification, Velvet Wrasse
Behavior, Velvet Wrasse Selection,
Velvet Wrasse Systems, Velvet
Wrasse Feeding, Velvet Wrasse
Disease, Wrasses,
Wrasse Selection, Wrasse Behavior,
Wrasse Compatibility, Wrasse Feeding,
Wrasse Diseases, | 
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Exquisite Wrasse... comp. f'... adding to an existing mix
10/5/09
Dear WWM.
<Hey Kai! JustinN here!>
I released my new Flame Wrasse yesterday after quarantine. My Exquisite
Wrasse reacted by chasing the new fish around the tank, albeit nothing
serious. It was just some minor chasing to show who's boss around.
<Pretty typical with a newcomer to the glass-walled world.>
I decided to separate them even though I thought it was nothing serious.
So the Exquisite is now in a Betta box. The thing is, he's trying to
escape by rubbing and pushing his snout against the sides of the box.
<Can't say I blame him -- I'd be mad if I were the sheriff in town and
got stuck in a jail cell! ;)>
I believe he has hurt his upper lip slightly in doing so. He is still
feeding on NLS pellets and frozen mysis shrimps. Is there a cause for
concern?
<Just monitor -- if he's still eating, its likely not major if
anything.>
He has stopped rubbing and pushing after 2 hours of doing so. I guess he
felt the pain. I really do not wish to cage him up like this, but its
for the better of both fishes in the mean time. I plan to release him
after the
flame wrasse gets more comfortable and bolder in his new environment.
Both fishes are healthy and feeding well and are very healthy. The
exquisite is an "alpha" male after spending awhile in the tank. He
flashes and display to the other fishes every evening when I dim the
lights. I hope this is nothing serious and hopefully it will heal in
time. It will heal...right?
Thanks for your time.
- Kai
<Well Kai, sounds like typical growing pains of adding a newcomer to the
world. Assuming that the tank is large enough to handle both of these
typically alpha characters, all should heal with time, yes -- however,
there will likely still be an unavoidable struggle for 'dominance' for a
period of time. I would call this normal, and just observe for any
severe bullying that may grow as time goes on. Ciao! -JustinN>
Re: Exquisite Wrasse 10/5/09
Thanks for the reply Justin.
<Glad to be of assistance, Kai!>
The Flame Wrasse has settled in nicely and is picking off food from the
water column.
<Good, sounds like he's settling in nicely.>
Came home to find the exquisite still interested in food, which is good.
<Agreed.>
Can I now conclude that his mouth is not under any serious injury and
will heal in time?
<Based on what you previously reported, I would say that this is a high
likelihood -- since the injuries were unnoted prior to the captivity,
I'm sure they are related.>
I will release the exquisite back into the main tank once the flame has
settled down and claim a piece of real estate to himself. Thanks for
your help. Yes the tank is big enough for these two fishes. I removed
many of my fishes prior to adding these two Cirrhilabrus, to maximize
swimming space and territories.
<Excellent, sounds like you're well on your way and on the right track.
Good luck, and let us know if you have any further questions! -JustinN>
Thanks for your help!
Adding a solar fairy wrasse 10/1/2009
Hello all,
<Howdy Jen!>
I have a 75gal low light reef and wondered if I can add Cirrhilabrus
solorensis to my crew. I'm currently stocked with 2 dwarf angels, 2
small gobies, 2 clowns, a fridmani Dottyback and a canary wrasse. One,
am I already at my stocking limit and two, do you think my wrasse and
Dottyback would even allow a new fish into their tank?
Thanks for your help!
<I do give you good odds here... 70-80 unqualified percent... that these
Velvets will blend in fine... they occupy a bit "higher" niche than the
Halichoeres and Dotty... and the length of the tank should work... I
give
it the "arf arf" seal/Zalophus of approval. Bob Fenner>
Re: Cirrhilabrus luteovittatus, now comp. 08/05/09
Sara,
Do you think it would be ok to add a Sixline to this tank
<Well, there's no guarantee that two wrasses will get a long. But in a
75g tank with lots of rock work, it's probably a smaller risk than
most.>
(75 with x2 false Percs, 1 yellow watchman goby, 1 Kole tang, 1 velvet
fairy wrasse) down the road, or would this cause problems?
<With wrasses you can never be sure, but I think you'd be ok.>
Do you think a springeri Pseudochromis would be mild enough for the
velvet fairy?
<Again, there's always some risk mixing wrasses together, but I think
you'll probably be ok with these two in a tank of this size (provided
there's enough rockwork).>
Thanks for the input!
Carter
<De nada,
Sara M.>
Will the Yellow Streaked Fairy Wrasse and the Clown Fairy Wrasse Work
Together? – 10/19/08
I am getting a 135 gallon tank and have
started researching what fish I want to have.
<<Very good>>
I know
I want a few tangs and wrasses and had some questions.
<<A “few”
tangs will be an issue…in my opinion…though I think a “couple” is doable
here>>
Do the Yellow Streaked Fairy Wrasse and the Clown Fairy Wrasse
get along together?
<<None of the Cirrhilabrus Wrasses really “get
along”…but it can be possible to keep differing species in a large
enough tank…although Cirrhilabrus luteovittatus (Yellow Streaked Fairy
Wrasse) is generally considered one of the more aggressive species of
the genus. Still…these two fishes “could” conceivably coexist in this
6-foot tank>>
Also, would I have problems with having a Purple Tang,
Yellow Tang, Naso Tang and Blue Hippo Tang in the same tank?
<<Mmm,
yes…way too much Tang…way too little tank. Though you have likely seen
both in smaller systems than yours…the Naso and Hippo Tang both require
larger tanks than what you have for their long-term health…both physical
and social. You might get away with the two Zebrasoma species together
for a time, but the Purple Tang may become a terror as it matures. I
would suggest mixing genera with a small Acanthurus species (e.g. – A.
japonicus) or Ctenochaetus species (e.g. - C. strigosus) to accompany
the Yellow Tang, for the best chances of success>>
Which of these
should I introduce first, second, etc.....?
<<I would introduce the
Wrasses first and together…and the Tangs last (after quarantine), and
also together if possible>>
I can send you a list of all the fish I
want and see what you think.
Thanks,
Debbie
<<I’m happy to help
Debbie…do first research your fish choices re compatibility and
suitability to your system…then once your list is pared down, write back
for some input. Regards, EricR>>
Re: Will the Yellow Streaked Fairy Wrasse and the Clown Fairy Wrasse
Work Together? – 10/20/08
Okay, I have made some changes.
Instead of the Blue Hippo, I figured the Blue Tang instead, since it
doesn't get quite as big and the brown powder tang that you talked about
with the yellow. Is that better?
<<Providing the scientific names
would help…I am going to assume by “Blue Tang” you mean Acanthurus
coeruleus, the Atlantic Blue tang…and no…this is not better. The
Atlantic Blue tang, while not as heavy bodied, will get bigger than the
Blue Hippo Tang. Try using fishbase.org for researching your fish
selections to get a better idea of their ultimate size, geographic
origin, diet, habitat, etc. I very much suggest you limit your Tang
selections to the Yellow Tang and Whitecheek (aka Powder Brown) tang for
this tank…especially considering you seem new to all this>>
I am
copying the list here, mainly because I am worried about bioload. I am
planning on a refugium to add more water to the system, and am trying to
find out how big it needs to be.
<<As big as you can go…really. Do
also read here and among the many related links at the top of the page:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm >>
Okay, here is the list:
Reef Safe or Semi-safe fish I want for my BIG tank:
TANGS SHOULD ALL
BE ADDED TOGETHER
Yellow Tang (yellow and large) 8"
<<Okay>>
Powder Brown Tang (black, tan, red and yellow and large) 8"
<<Be sure
to get Acanthurus japonicus, and stay away from the similar Acanthurus
nigricans. Both are often sold under the same common names of” Powder
Brown” or Whitecheek” but the former is much more aquarium hardy while
the latter has a dismal record re and should be left to advanced
hobbyists with the proper systems to keep this fish. Look them up by
their scientific names and study the picture so you learn to tell which
is which>>
Blue Tang (blue and some yellow on tail and large) 10"
<<Likely Acanthurus coeruleus and unsuitable for this tank. Best to
stick with the first two Tangs and leave it at that>>
WRASSES SHOULD
BE INTRODUCED TOGETHER BEFORE TANGS
Clown Fairy Wrasse (blue and pink
and yellow and medium) 5"
<<Cirrhilabrus solorensis…a beautiful
fish>>
Orange Back Fairy Wrasse (orange and purple and red and
medium) 5"
<< Cirrhilabrus aurantidorsalis…another beauty…as most all
species from this genus are>>
Mated Pair Black and White Ocellaris
Clownfish (black and white and medium)
4" each
<<Okay>>
Coral
Beauty Angelfish (blue and orange and medium) 4"
<<Be sure to acquire
a healthy specimen that has been at the dealer for a couple weeks as
this species prone to damage from collection/handling>>
Flame
Angelfish (red and medium) 4"
<<A superior aquarium species from this
genus (Centropyge). These small Angels are feisty…especially toward each
other. If you get them both I suggest you introduce them together if
possible>>
2 Purple Firefish (purple and white and small) 2" each
<<Although a social species, I find these fish don’t cohabitate well in
aquarium settings. Also, with the exception of conspecifics, these are
very timid fish that are easily bullied to the point of starvation
and/or stress induced ailment. Not a good choice considering the
tankmates you have chosen…I suggest you pass on these fish>>
2 Yellow
Stripe Clingfish (yellow and black and small) 2" each
<<Another
dubious choice in my opinion, and better left to a species tank and a
time when you are more experienced in the hobby. We have little data on
these fishes but what we have you can find here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clingfishfaqs.htm >>
2 Neon Gobies (blue
and black and small) 2" each
<<Okay>>
7 - 9 Blue Green Chromis
(green and small) 2" each
<<This is another social species that, in
my experiences, generally dwindles in numbers due to continuous
harassment from the one or two dominant individuals>>
You guys are
great!! I really appreciate your help, I want a good system but, I also
wanted a colorful mix.
<<Quite understandable…just keep within your
knowledge/skill level and the constraints of your system>>
This is
difficult!!
<<Just keep reading/learning>>
I want some of the
other fish that don't do good with coral and may start another tank for
them but, I don't like how those tanks have no color because of no
corals. Any ideas there?
<<Hmm…beauty in the eye of the beholder... I
find well designed and stocked “natural” looking FOWLR systems to be
“very” attractive and interesting>>
Again, thanks,
Deb
<<Happy
to share. EricR>>
New addition advice, Cirrhilabrus comp. 8/18/08
Crew,
<Karl>
I need some of your knowledgeable and generous advice. I'm
thinking of adding a Clown Fairy Wrasse
<Cirrhilabrus solorensis>
to my mature 55 gallon peaceful FOWLR tank with 60lbs LR. 4 Green
Chromis, Firefish, Bicolor Blenny, Bali Coral Angel, Maroon Clown
(assertive but not aggressive)
<Mmm, will likely become more the
latter with time>
and a Cleaner Shrimp. I'm using Aragamax Select
(sugar sized) for the bed which I hope is OK (I understand
Wrasse
like to 'dig in' ).
<Mmm, not all genera/species... not Cirrhilabrus>
Would this be advisable in you opinion?
<Mmm... not really... this
tank is pretty much full behaviorally... and these wrasses are not
really suitable in such small volumes, placed/kept alone... Live in
haremic associations... as you'll find with a bit of reading, on WWM,
elsewhere. Bob Fenner>
~ Karl
McCosker's Flasher Wrasse with Cerith and Nassarius snails. - 07/19/08
Hello Crew!
Let me start by saying thank you for the excellent job
you do! Now for my question. I want to know if the McCosker's Flasher
wrasse and Carpenter Wrasse will be compatible with my clean up crew? I
have read on several online retailers web sites that this fish is "Reef
safe" and will not harm inverts. Is this true?
<Almost always the
case, yes. Cirrhilabrus and Paracheilinus species by and large feed on
"off the bottom" zooplankters>
I really enjoy the work that my
Nassarius, Cerith and Nerite snails do. They are excellent little
scavengers and I don't want to add anything to the system that is going
to hunt them down and kill them. The system is a 105 Gallon Half hexagon
with a 35 Gallon sump/refugium with Chaeto and Macro growing in the
refugium. 4-5" DSB in display tank and refugium, ETSS Reef Devil
Skimmer, 1/4 hp Chiller, Mag 18 Return pump with 3x 1/2" water outlets,
4x65watt PC's and approximately 65 Lbs of Live rock. The system is
cycled and about 2 months old. I purchased a kit of Copepods and
amphipods along with only snails for the clean up crew. My goal is to
research all the fish prior to purchasing them so that everyone gets
along in a nice little community. Are there any Gobies or blennies that
you might also recommend that will not feed on my clean up crew.
<Many... see WWM re...>
Thank You so Much! Mario from Rancho
Cucamonga, Ca.
<Welcome, from BobF in very VOGy Kailua Kona>
Labrid comp. 7/12/08
Hi all,
This one will be real
quick. What is your opinion on keeping a Sixline Wrasse, and some sort
of Fairy Wrasse in the same 75 gallon tank?
Thanks,
Marc
<Likely enough room for all here... The Lined staying in and amongst
rock, the Cirrhilabrus up and about in the mid water. Bob Fenner>
Cirrhilabrus/Paracheilinus compatibility/harem size 2/16/08
Good morning WWM Crew,
<RA>
Well, I've been thinking a lot
about what exactly I'm going put in my 86g (48"L x 16"W x 26"T).
I've been thinking about getting a harem of the smaller (3") wrasses
of either of the above genera.
First off, would these fish be
compatible with a pair of maroon clowns and a BTA?
<Mmm,
possibly... in a system of this size, shape... there's a very real
poss. that a Premnas would kill other fishes in time>
My tank is
tall, and the top of the live rock barely extends past the bottom
half of the tank, giving plenty of open room for the wrasse.
Second, how large are harems in the wild generally?
<Of the above
genera, species? Usually dozens of individuals... some lower "caste"
males perhaps only with a few females per>
I'm trying to form a
biotope, so I'm avoiding all fish that only school/group in very
large numbers. How many wrasse could I keep in my tank?
<Not
many... perhaps a handful here>
Well, thanks for reading this.
Your crew has been very helpful with me and my countless
hypothetical questions.
TIA,
Random Aquarist
<Welcome.
Less random BobF>
Re: Cirrhilabrus/Paracheilinus compatibility/harem size
2/17/08
So, I'm guessing it would be best to not mix maroons
with wrasse.
<We are in agreement>
However, I still like the
idea of mixing clowns and wrasse. What BTA-hosting clowns would be
compatible with a harem of wrasse?
<Smaller, easier-going
species... particularly tank-bred/reared... Ocellaris, true
Perculas... at the top of my choice list. Bob Fenner>
R6: Adding Another Wrasse To My Tank (Not Going to Be Easy) –
02/17/08
Lights are back on and the Sixline is after the
Solar again, seems like he’s on a mission.
<<Mmm, yes…can be
relentless>>
Even when the Solar Wrasse finds a hiding place the
Sixline relentlessly searches for it. When he finds it he chases
around the tank at full speed until a new hiding spot is found...
this cycle has repeated itself several times but so far no one seems
hurt. Will this settle down in time and if so what signs should I
look for?
<<Less chasing about>>
If not, how long do I wait to
try and remove one of the two, which would be decided by which one I
can actually catch.
<<Sometimes these introductions just don’t
work out… If the Solar wrasse does not/can not feed, if any physical
trauma occurs beyond a nipped fin, or if the “incessant” chasing
does not stop in a couple days…I would remove one of these fishes.
EricR>>
R7: Adding Another Wrasse To My Tank (Not Going to
Be Easy) – 02/18/08
Solar is hiding for the last 8 hours or
so under some rock and the Sixline seems a little less interested in
finding it then before.
<<Mmm…maybe a glimmer of hope>>
I also
re-aquascaped part of the tank to hopefully disorient the Sixline a
bit and enforce a truce while they all laid low.
<<A good move>>
An hour or so after I finished, the Sixline did find the Solar
Wrasse in its hiding spot but just swam up to its face and stared it
down for a while. This time Solar didn't make a run for it but
instead just backed in deeper after the Sixline left. Hope this is a
good sign since I really like both fish. All that being said, how
long should I wait to see if the Solar comes out and feeds before
getting concerned?
<<Hard to say, Danny… If the fish was
introduced shortly after arrival at the LFS then it likely hasn’t
fed much for days already, if at all, and is in a weakened state
from the stresses of capture and transport and will need to feed
soon in my opinion (within the next couple days). If this fish was
quarantined and feeding/fed well before introduction then it can go
a bit longer. EricR>>
R8: Adding Another Wrasse To My Tank (Not Going to Be Easy) –
02/20/08
Eric,
<<Danny>>
A quick update...
<<Thank
you for this>>
The Solar had been spending the last 2 days hiding
under the rocks but I could see him through the bottom of the tank
to monitor his vitals.
<<I see>>
This evening a gave the gang
Mysid shrimp with some Selcon for added impact and the Solar came
out in seconds!
<<I’m sure it must be hungry…>>
However, the
Sixline was on his case right away.
<<Mmm, can be true
“beasties”…much belied by their size/popularity in the hobby>>
I
managed to keep the Sixline at bay by using my net to distract /
scare him back and that allowed the Solar a chance to gulp down a
half dozen or so Mysids.
<<A good strategy…is “very” important
that this fish be able to feed/gain strength. I am impressed and
pleased with the lengths you are willing to go to in the interest of
this fish>>
After feeding and the Sixline persisting in his chase
attempts the Solar went back under the rock. To me this is a big
step, since at least he's shown a desire to eat...
<<It is a
plus, but even though it appears there has been no physical trauma
to the Solar Wrasse, the psychological stress imposed by the Sixline
does have a deleterious effect>>
And, if I can entice him at
least 1-time a day to eat there may be some hope.
<<If the
Sixline Wrasse is not pursuing the Solar Wrasse in to its hidey-hole
as they most often do, maybe so>>
You never know, maybe the
Sixline will get used to his presence over time or the Solar might
stand his ground.
<<Habituation is a possibility…but don’t ever
expect these two fishes to be “friends”…I expect there will always
be a bit of chasing-away to some extent>>
I also want to thank
you for listening (reading) and always responding.
<<No worries
mate…is what we do!>>
Being new to this fascinating hobby it's
good to have some place to get impartial advice from people who are
doing it for the love of the hobby too!
Danny
<<Ah yes, it is
truly our desire to have you/folks like you succeed in the hobby.
EricR>> |
Wrasse & Jawfish? Cirrhilabrus comp. 12/10/07
Good
morning/evening/afternoon?
<AM here/Hawaii now>
I bought a 2.5"
wrasse a week ago. He's in quarantine (glass bottom with a single 14lb
piece of liverock) hiding on me but seems to be doing well... feeding,
etc.
Being smaller and not being able to get a great look at him to
distinguish, I figure he's one of the following 3 species:
Cirrhilabrus luteovittatus, Cirrhilabrus rubripinnis, Cirrhilabrus
tonozukai
<Neat fairy, velvets...>
He definitely has a more
burgundy tinge to his coloration but I haven't been able to notice any
blues/greens on his sides.
<This genus' members are highly variable
per species at times... see Fishbase.org>
In any event, I bought the
little guy as a peaceful addition to my 90g reef tank. I have about
100lbs of live rock and some soft corals. I introduced a Kole Tang
recently, already have a yellow-tailed blue damsel and two yellow-headed
Jawfish. I've read that these wrasses are very peaceful and so are the
Jawfish, however thought I'd ask the question... should the wrasse fit
in nicely with the jaws?
Thanks,
Dave
<I think so... will
likely be "high above" them in placement most all the time... Bob
Fenner> Re:
Wrasse & Jawfish? More comp.... 12/10/07
Sorry for the
added email... I was able to coax the wrasse out of her hiding place.
<Likely a him...>
Given the red to burgundy coloration and a single
black dot higher up towards the tail, from your pictures I'd venture a
guess that the wrasse is Cirrhilabrus tonozukai. The dealer also called
it a Fairy Wrasse.
<This is a common name for the entire genus>
Dr
Foster's website would indicate that this wrasse would be compatible
with Jawfish? and every website I saw mentioned that these are very
peaceful wrasses ideal for community tanks. So I'm guessing they would
be a decent match for the Jawfish?
<Should be>
Secondly, I do have
hermits, a serpent star, a tuxedo urchin, soft corals, and a coral
banded shrimp. Would any of these be of concern as far as being eaten by
the wrasse?
<No>
While I still have your attention... I have a
slightly larger than golf ball size tuxedo urchin. At the moment, he's
sitting in the middle of my soft coral polyps... would you expect any
harm to be done?
<Possibly... I would move it. RMF>
Wrasses
for my 58??
Bring on The Wrasses! (Stocking Question) - 11/20/07
Hello WWM crew
<Hi there! Scott F. here today!>
First, kudos to
you for all the wonderful information and help you give out on a daily
basis.
<Well, thank you kindly! Proud to have been associated with
this group for over 5 years. We have amazing people whose love for this
hobby and aquatic life is inspiring!>
I have a 58 RR that is LPS
dominated, mainly with Acans/Micros.
<Ahh- you're one of THOSE
people! Just kidding- they are beautiful corals! I just laugh because
some of the hype that's been attached to them of late.>
I currently
have 1 Green Banded Goby, 1 Yellow Neon Goby, 1 Red Head Goby 1 small
Royal Gramma and 2 Wheeler's Watchman Gobies.
<Wow! A great
assemblage of some of my favorite little fishes! Sounds sweet!>
I
would really like to add a wrasse to the tank. I was thinking about 2-3
Carpenter's Flashers or McCosker's in the same numbers. Would this work
with my current fish list?
<I believe that this could work fine. The
smaller Fairy and Flasher wrasses will make fine tankmates for the
fishes that you have, and their colors will be stunning, complimenting
your coral collection!>
If need be I have another home for the Royal
Gramma.
<This fish would be my only concern. There is a slight
possibility that the Gramma will not be as friendly as we'd like.
However, the Gramma generally occupies a different strata within the
water column of the system than the wrasses do, and may not be an issue.
Observe carefully and intervene if needed.>
Would this work?? If not
could I add one wrasse instead of 2-3?
<I think that these wrasses
are more comfortable, and display better in small groups. I would not go
solo.>
Everything I am reading sounds like they are happier and have
a better survival rate if housed in small groups.
<Cue "Twilight
Zone" theme- you read my mind!>
Thanks in advance for any
help/direction you might be able to give me
Patrick
<You sound
like you're on the right track! I'd love to see pics of this tank when
everyone is settled in! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>
Solar Fairy Wrasse...Compatibility/Pairing – 10/10/07
Hi,
<<Hello Joel>>
I have a 3" or so Solorensis (aka Solar, aka Painted,
aka Clown Fairy) Wrasse.
<<Ah yes...Cirrhilabrus solorensis. Very
nice little fish>>
It is looking female, gorgeous fish. I want a
male, too.
<<Okay...though it might be best to obtain another female
and let the dominant individual “turn”>>
I've seen them paired in
tanks successfully.
<<Indeed, this can be done...and the bigger the
tank the better re>>
But when I got this one, no second fish was
available. I have two options that I can see:
1. Get a small
juvenile. What are the odds it (or this one) will go male?
<<Pretty
good>>
2. Get a male roughly the same size as the one I have. I found
one for a great price, beautiful specimen.
<<A bit risky if the
specimen you already have has started making the change to becoming
male. You would need to be very sure...>>
Would this be stupid?
<<Could be problematic...as stated>>
Will they fight to the death if
they are the same size?
<<Not usually, if of differing sexes...but
there are no guarantees>>
Or I suppose the 3rd option -- forget it
having added this one already, there is no hope for keeping two. But I
don't want to hear that!
<<Is worth a try I think if you can obtain a
female for certain...and have a bit of patience. And it will certainly
help things if you can remove the one you have to quarantine for a day
or so and introduce/reintroduce the pair to the display together>>
Thanks,
Joel
<<Regards, EricR>>
Re: Solar Fairy Wrasse...Compatibility/Pairing – 10/11/07
Thanks.
<<Welcome>>
How long does it usually take if 2 females for one to go
male?
<<Is variable between genera, species...and can be dependent
upon/effected by environmental factors...but likely 1-3 months>>
Mine
is showing NO signs of going male, and I got that male from the shop and
added it 2 days ago (it was get it or lose it time!). They seem totally
disinterested in each other (no fighting), and both eating well, fat. I
think it will be ok in the end.
<<Sounds as though... EricR>>>>
Fortunately, the store I got the male from QTs for 4 weeks before
selling and I got it out of QT.
Aggression in fairy wrasses 7/25/07
Hello Crew,
<Lisa>
Have you had any experience of really aggressive/territorial
fairy wrasses?
<Oh yes... Cirrhilabrus are definitely such amongst
conspecifics...>
I have a 2.5 inch long, well-fed male redfinned
fairy wrasse, who is beautiful and comical, yet has developed a real
attitude problem.
Within a couple of months of being introduced to my
300L reef aquarium, he has metamorphosed from a shy retiring individual
to a bit of a thug!
I suspect he took out two small blue reef Chromis
not so long ago during hit-and-run dashes, and he has now started
flashing and flaring at, and attempting to hit my percula clown pair (2
inches), who were recently returned to the tank after illness. He spent
a number of his early days in the tank sucking up to my yellow tang, and
the two are now best buddies. The tang (3.5 inches) sometimes tries to
protect the clowns by getting in between them and the wrasse, but at
other times he and the wrasse gang up and maraud around the tank as a
team. The only other fish inhabitants are a sixspotted goby pair (2
inches), who keep to their area at the bottom of the tank, happily
sifting sand all day long.
They can fend for themselves, and seem to
scare away the wrasse when he tries to start on them. Their only real
issue with the wrasse is that they spend all day digging out a bed under
a rock, and as soon as the lights go out, the wrasse comes along and
forcibly ejects them from their bed and settles in himself, weaving his
mucus cocoon! They have now taken to preparing several beds each day, so
they know that they will have somewhere to sleep!
I would say that
this was an issue with the wrasse disliking fish of a similar colour to
himself, but I have also witnessed him harassing bright blue reef
Chromis.
<Mmm, maybe it can't see itself...>
He even sometimes
flares at me when I am peeking in at him, and has been known to nip my
fingers when I reach into the tank. I thought that fairy wrasses were
supposed to be relatively peaceful creatures, when kept away from 'their
own kind',
<Usually so>
and I am beginning to suspect that mine is
a psychopathic exception to the rule! Do you have any tips or hints, or
do you think I should prepare myself for Marley's (Marley the wrasse,
geddit?!)
<Shades of Charlie Dickens!>
return to the store?
Many thanks for your tireless work and help,
Lisa
<Maybe this or
the addition of a couple of females... BobF> Leopard and
Fairy Wrasse Together? - 03/10/07
Hope all is well crew.
<<Doing fine, thank you>>
My question for today is would a leopard
wrasse get along with my yellow sided fairy wrasse.
<<Is likely,
yes>>
The tank is a 90 gallon reef.
<<Too small really...do you
have a large and mature in-line refugium to help provide a ready supply
of foodstuffs for these little understood and often quite difficult to
feed fishes?>>
I really like the potters leopard wrasse.
<<A
beautiful fish>>
But all are Beautiful.
<<Indeed>>
What
Leopard would you suggest?
<<None are easy...all are delicate
shippers and fussy to get to feed. The majority (80%?...maybe more?)
don't survive more than a week or so after capture. If you can find one
that is already feeding on Mysis and/or New Life Spectrum pellets (the
latter is important for long-term health in my experience) then you may
have a chance of keeping one of these amazing fishes alive. But if you
have any doubts...either in the health/vitality of the fish or your
ability to provide for its long-term well-being...do please pass it up
for a more suitable species. Regards, EricR>> Mixing a
Lineatus and Hawaiian Flame Wrasse - 02/21/07
I have a 90 gallon
tank with no fish in it yet. I just purchased a C. lineatus wrasse, but
won't receive it until next week. I also would like to purchase a
Hawaiian Flame wrasse for the same tank.
<<Both beautiful
fishes...and pricey too!>>
Would these two fish get along.
<<Is
possible, yes. I have kept mixes of flasher/fairy wrasses before with
little problem regarding interspecific aggression, though in a much
larger system. I suggest you introduce these two (after quarantine) to
the tank at the same time to eliminate the problems associated with the
tendency of the first fish introduced to "lay claim" to the tank. The
availability of plentiful hiding places will also help should aggression
initially be an issue. And do take in to consideration these fishes
tendency to jump out of the tank. In my experience this is most likely
when/if the tank should suddenly "go dark." You can't do much about
sudden power outages, but be sure to have your lights on timers and
consider using low-wattage fluorescent (even actinic) bulbs to try to
"ease" the transition from light-to-dark>>
I have 100 lbs of live
rock in the tank, eventually it will be a SPS reef tank.
<<Sounds
good...a nice environment in which to showcase these lovely fishes>>
Thanks, John
<<A pleasure to share. EricR>> Fish
Compatibility, Cirrhilabrus 1/14/07
Crew
<Hey Mike, JustinN with you today.>
I have wanted a Flame Wrasse
Pair for some time. I have the opportunity to pick up a pair in the 3
to 4 inch range for the male. However, I am concerned about
compatibility with my current fish inventory.
<Good for you to
research ahead of time, I commend you for this.>
I have an
established 110 mixed SPS LPS reef system. Currently my fish inventory
is 1 blue hippo tang (fairly large), 1 yellow banded maroon clown
(fairly large), 2 assessors, 1 red velvet wrasse, 1 mandarin goby and 7
blue chromis reef fish.
<Ok>
I know there are no guarantees.
<Of course, fishes are still individuals.>
However, I would like
your opinion on compatibility issues particularly with one wrasse and a
couple of larger long time tank residents already in the system.
Thanks, Mike
<Well, Mike, I see nothing that leads me to think that
this mix would not work. As you stated, no guarantees can be made as
individual specimens have individual temperaments, however, I think that
with proper quarantine and assuming that you have sufficient hiding
places provided, these beautiful wrasse will be a wonderful addition to
your reef. Hope this helps! -JustinN> Cirrhilabrus wrasse
compatibility 11/27/06
Bob,
<Hey Jonathan,
JustinN here with you today>
I was just wondering if these two fish
would be compatible in my 46 gallon reef set up: Cirrhilabrus solorensis
and Cirrhilabrus scottorum. I already have the Cirrhilabrus solorensis
in the tank and was interested in adding the other. Currently in the
tank I have a pair of clowns and a yellow watchman goby.
Let me
know. Thanks!
Jonathan
<Mmm, in a larger setting, I would think
they would work without problems. However, I think there would just not
be enough room for two fish with an ultimate adult size of about four
and a half inches. Hope this helps you! -JustinN>
Ruby Head
Wrasse, Cirrhilabrus comp. 11/24/06
Hi,
<Hey
Terri, JustinN with you today.>
I just purchased another
Cirrhilabrus cyanopleura, or Ruby Head Wrasse.
I wanted a companion
for the first Ruby Head, and from what I've been reading, species of
Cirrhilabrus are compatible. The newcomer is getting a severe beating
from the first wrasse.
<Mmm, to be expected somewhat. These fish are
typically not tolerant of other males, and will fight voraciously, until
the less dominant is either submissive, or on its way to changing back
to a female.>
What do you recommend? The tank is a 240, so there
should be plenty of room for each wrasse to claim it's own space. Should
I purchase another wrasse, to divert attention from this one? I like
wrasses so this would not be a problem. Would rearranging the rocks
help?
<Rearranging the rockwork may help, but honestly, my
suggestion would be to return the second Cirrhilabrus cyanopleura back
to the LFS in exchange for another species of fairy wrasse. The
difference in color and appearance should break up the hostility you
currently see.>
The first wrasse, until now, has been the sweetest
and most docile fish in the tank. Fish include damsels, chromis, two
tangs, two clowns, two angels. My other recent purchase was a juvenile
Koran angel, who gets along with everyone.
<Sounds very nice>
Thanks!
Terri
<As stated previously, while species of
Cirrhilabrus can be compatible, its often hard to strike that balance
when they're both of the same species and both male. Hope this helps
you! -JustinN> Re: Ruby Head Wrasse comp. 11/25/06
Hi,
<Hey again, Terri>
I originally had a male and female, but
the female jumped out of the tank
recently, didn't notice until too
late, and I wanted to get another wrasse for the first one. All open
spaces have been tightly secured too.
<Ah, I see.>
> My other
recent purchase was a juvenile Koran angel, who gets along with
everyone.
> <Sounds very nice>
I like this guy, seems very
friendly and intelligent.
> <As stated previously, while species of
Cirrhilabrus can be compatible, its often hard to strike that balance
when they're both of the same species and both male. Hope this helps
you! -JustinN>
Thank you, JustinN! I ordered this one from the web,
and didn't think to specify a female. Didn't realize two males of this
species would not get along,
Terri
<Well, Terri, you could
always just 'stay the course' as the saying goes, and see how things
work out with the fairy wrasse. They are thought to be sexually
dichromatic, and given time and space (which you obviously have) the
submissive should eventually revert back to female. Hope all works out
for you! -JustinN> Wrasse/Cirrhilabrus
Compatibility - 08/03/06
Dear WWM,
<<Good Morning>>
We
have a six-line wrasse, a yellow finned female fairy wrasse, a twin-spot
or clown coris wrasse, and a red head solar or clown fairy wrasse. With
regards to the twin-spot we did not know what we had until we brought it
home and looked it up (we typically do not buy anything without doing
this first but this one time we did, so...).
<<Mmm, yes...impulse
buying...most all have been there/done that. You since have learned
this fish will grow to be a bruiser/will eat your other fish, perhaps
returning it is in order?>>
The yellow finned female fairy wrasse
keeps chasing the red head Solor or clown fairy wrasse. We are
considering getting
another clown fairy wrasse (to possibly stop
getting the one we have now chased) but I read that males can be
aggressive within their own species so that may not be the best thing to
do. What is your opinion on this and is there a way to tell a male from
a female clown fairy wrasse?
<<The "fairy" or "flasher" wrasses are
not "gentle" fishes as the name might imply. Keeping multiples is
usually limited to keeping single specimens of interspecifics together,
or keeping a male and "several" females (to "spread" the male's
attentions). Even then, some bickering may occur among interspecifics
until a "pecking order" is obtained. And like most all fishes, my
experience with wrasses has been that the species most similar in
size/color will fight the most with the larger species ignoring the
smaller species...unless their big enough to eat them, of course. As
for sexing Cirrhilabrus solorensis, to be honest I don't know...I'm not
even sure this species is sexually dimorphic>>
We are also
considering getting a yellow coris wrasse and a radiant wrasse.
<<By
"yellow coris wrasse" do you mean Halichoeres chrysus? An excellent and
relatively peaceful aquarium fish in my opinion, though I do wish folks
could get away from calling this fish a "coris" wrasse. I think
"canary" wrasse is more suitable/descriptive of its nature...but enough
of my rant>>
Do you think we will have any trouble if we add
these? Our
current tank is a 210 gal. and we are considering buying
a 500 gal. from our local saltwater shop as he is downsizing and if so
will move everyone into this tank.
<<Even with the 210 I think
you're fine, as far as bio-load. But I do have concerns with the
six-line and the twin-spot wrasses. These may make it difficult to add
future specimens. The six-line looks small/cute enough, but can be real
monsters. I have seen these kill newly introduced wrasses of similar
size...even in very large systems>>
I would also like to say that we
have struggled with Goniopora but either our tank is extremely
established or squirting it with phytoplankton from a turkey baster is
doing the trick.
<<Mmm, a difficult species for anyone...Most don't
survive their first few months, those that do rarely make it a
year...probably best left in the ocean until we learn more about it/its
care>>
We bought a small $10 one and it is doing wonderful, puffing
out all over the place since I have been squirting it. I feed it every
other day. Maybe this will help someone else if they are having
trouble.
<<I do hope yours continues to prosper>>
Thank you guys
<<and gals>> so much for this website and all of your insight on the
saltwater world.
<<We're all happy to help>>
It is extremely
difficult to find people willing to help and with the experience and
knowledge that you have.
<<Is indeed a cumulative effort>>
Best
regards,
Marc & Belinda Barry
<<Cheers, Eric Russell>>
Fairy Wrasse... feeding, compatibility 5/14/06
Hello,
<Hi there>
First of all, I would like to thank you for all
of your support over the years. I would also like to ask a question, I
have recently run into the problem of newly acclimated fish, fairy
wrasses in my case, being scared away from food by competition. In my
case the competition is a powder blue tang, sailfin tang, and a juvenile
Chrysurus. I just lost a gorgeous lineatus wrasse to this
unfortunately.
<Happens... Cirrhilabrus are not bold competitors, as
you mention>
He was around five inches long so it wasn't like he was
a baby trying to compete with the guys. Which brings me to my question,
I have heard of people using acrylic containers with holes in them to
give the new tankmates time to adjust and get used to feeding in the
tank with competition. So would you recommend this and if so, where
would I find a contraption like this.
<Might prove useful, you'd
have to either fashion this/them or have an acrylic/plastics shop do it
for you. Not made commercially>
But if you do not, I would
appreciate if you could instill some other sort of information about
possible techniques upon me. Thank you very much for any help that you
can give me.
Regards,
Dave
<Different
temperaments/compatibilities, different tanks... Bob Fenner>
Cirrhilabrus Wrasse Compatibility with Hermit Crabs 3/3/06
Thank you WWM Crew for all your past advice.
Two of my Red Legged
Hermit Crabs (Paguristes cadenati) disagree with the common fact that
Cirrhilabrus Wrasses are "Reef Safe."
<Heee heee... who's "right?">
My Social Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus rubriventralis) must have gotten
bored and ate up some free-range fish food.
<Yee hah! Get along
little anomurans!>
It was no great loss (But a great show.)
I
post this experience just so others can know and so they will not get
terrified if one of there Cirrhilabrus Wrasses takes down a tank mate.
<Thanks>
One thing, he has never eaten one of the Blue legged
hermit crabs (Clibanarius tricolor) ???
<Not as tasty? Might if
hungry enough. A point in lesson here: "All animals, as species,
individuals are only to some degree "safe" or no"... Thank you for
sharing. Bob Fenner>
Cirrhilabrus Wrasse Compatibility
- 2/11/2006
I am looking to add a trio of Flame Wrasses (1 male
and 2 females) to a tank that already has a solorensis wrasse, 2 false
Percs, and a yellow
watchman goby. Should I expect any
compatibility issues, especially between the flames and the solorensis?
<The solorensis is relatively peaceful but the Flame Wrasses are
aggressive. If you have a large enough tank you may get away with it.
Read here for more info on selection/compatibility. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/wrasses/>
Thanks. <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Andy
Re:
Cirrhilabrus Wrasse Compatibility - 2/11/2006
Thanks for
getting back to me. <You're welcome.> I looked at the link but did not
see the Flame Wrasse and not sure if I am missing it or if it is under a
specific family that I am unaware of. <Didn't search hard enough my
friend. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/wrasses/cirrhilabrus/index.htm Is
also known as Jordan's Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus jordani).> Also, you
mention a big enough tank -- this is a 90 gallon with a 40 gallon
sump/fuge, an ASM G3
skimmer and a closed loop. <Tank is large
enough. Do provide caves etc for them as in live rock. This wrasse
isn't one of the easiest to acclimate to prepared foods. Do make sure
they are eating before buying. James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks. <You're
welcome.> Re: Cirrhilabrus Wrasse Compatibility - 2/11/2006
Thanks. I didn't realize name that the flame fell under -- sorry. I
have about 130# of LR so I am guessing that this will be fine for them.
<Yes>
Thanks again for the advice. WWM is a great resource. <You're
welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Andy
Clown fairy wrasse
addition - 01/12/2006
Dear WWM Crew, <Marc/Belinda.
Belinda reminds me of a favorite song by the Grass Roots. Bella-Linda>
Over the weekend we went to our local saltwater shop
and I fell in
love with a fairy wrasse they have
labeled as a clown fairy
wrasse. I have not been able
to find much information about this
type of wrasse on
the internet or whether it would be compatible in
our
tank. Our 210 gallon community tank consists of:
2 black
onyx percula clowns (mated pair)
1 radiant wrasse
1 yellow coris
wrasse
2 yellow fin fairy wrasses
2 firefish
2 zebra barred
gobies
2 scissortail gobies/Dartfish
1 scooter blenny
1 male
green mandarin (plan to add a female)
1 bicolor blenny
1 diamond
watchman goby
1 6-line wrasse
1 rusty angel
1 bicolor
Foxface Rabbitfish
1 royal Gramma Basslet
3 pajama cardinals
(spotted cardinals)
1 sailfin tang
1 Hector's goby
2
greenbanded gobies
1 two spot bimaculatus blenny
1 blenny (green
with black line across top and lime
green head with forked tail)
2 cleaner shrimp
1 queen conch
1 sand shifting sea star
1
star fish
1 cucumber
I think this is it. Can you tell me if we
would be able to add the clown fairy wrasse we saw at the
store? Would it be overcrowding or pick on or be picked on by
others? Our tank is pretty peaceful and
we do not want to disturb
that. <I wouldn't add any more fish. You are around 7 gallons per fish
now. But to answer your question, the Red Head Solon/Clown Fairy Wrasse
(cirrhilabrus solorensis) is reef safe and grows to 5" and I believe a
rather expensive wrasse.>
Thank you so very much, <You're
welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Marc & Belinda Barry
Fairy
Wrasse Harems 12/7/05
Hey crew, how are you this evening?
<Scott F. here today...Doin' fine!>
I just have a quick question on
compatibility among the genus Cirrhilabrus, but first I have a question
regarding Cirrhilabrus lubbocki. Is there a way to determine the genders
of these fish? I've seen several articles and books that recommend
keeping a large harem of these as they stay less than 3" as a nice
schooling species, but have not been able to find pictures identifying
male from female or any retailers that sell genders individually. I'd
hate to just buy some and let them pick each other off until one male
and however many females were left. If you have a retailer
recommendation that can help or a way to identify them that would be a
great help. Or if they can be bought young enough so they will work out
their own social order, that would work too.
<With regards to sexing
these fishes, the males will typically display distinct color on all of
the fins, particularly the anal fin, whereas females usually possess
clear anal fins. Although not a 100% reliable method, this is a fairly
accurate way to determine the sexes.>
Second, I've heard that while
single males don't get along in the same system amongst the genus, that
harems of different species can sometimes be kept. I'm currently in the
planning stages of a 750-1150 gallon tank. I'm still about two years
out, but my nights are spent feverishly picking what specimens to keep
and all of the other details that make our hobby the stuff of madness.
The problem therein lies that I'm in love with 3 species of
Cirrhilabrus: Cirrhilabrus jordani, Cirrhilabrus lineatus, and
Cirrhilabrus lubbocki. I would like to keep a harem of each, but I want
to know if you guys would recommend this. Or should I cut it down to
just two? Also, if there is no way to distinguish C. lubbocki and you
don't recommend getting a group of them to let them sort it out, then
that might be the solution right there.
<In a tank of this size, I
don't see any problems with this plan. The most difficult part of
maintaining harems is finding females! Collectors tend to pass on the
less colorful females, shipping the more marketable males.>
Anyway,
any advice or help you can provide would be great. I know people have
kept many fairy wrasses in the same tank, but these are usually the
exception and not the rule. I prefer to err on the side of caution when
it comes to these things. Thanks again.
<Again, I think that small
groups of 1 male to 3-4 females as you're planning is the best way to
go. If you can find a group of females, you're likely to end up with one
fish emerging as a male in the end. Good luck with your planning, and
send pics when this monster tank is up! Regards, Scott F.>
Cirrhilabrus Trio In A 50 Gallon Tank? - 11/10/05
Hey Crew,
<<Hey!>>
I've read through the FAQs and still am unsure if my setup
will be sufficient or not to provide for the finned buddies I'd like to
get. The LFS I frequent for all things salty has 2 separate trios of
Cirrhilabrus (C. solorensis & C. rubrisquamis) in Quarantine (they Q all
their fish 7 days before they hit the sales floor).
<<Both are very
attractive wrasses.>>
So my question(s) is this... Assuming both
Trios make it through Q at the LFS healthy. Will one trio be suitable in
my 50 gallon low-light reef?
<<Yes>>
And if so, would one of the
trios be a better choice in those confines than the other?
<<Whichever you like the better.>>
The 50 gallon (36"x18"x18") tank
in question is a 2 month old low light reef w/3" aragonite sand bed and
35 lbs of new (2 months cured) Tonga live rock and roughly 10 lbs of
mushroom and colony polyp rocks from my main reef tank. The only other
residents in this tank currently are Nassarius and Cerith snails and
anything that hitchhiked in on the Live Rock. The tank has a skimmer and
a small HOB refugium w/ Macro Algae (Chaetomorpha) and has roughly
750gph water movement.
<<Should work nicely for the wrasses.>>
If
one of the trios will work... would you foresee any conflicts w/ adding
a few Firefish and a couple of Cleaner Gobies sometime down the road?
<<Mmm...should be fine, though probably not more than one Firefish due
to conspecific aggression among this species.>>
Thanks for your time
and all that you provide to the Hobby.
Andy
<<Happy to assist,
EricR>> Re: Cirrhilabrus Trio In A 50 Gallon Tank? - 11/21/05
Follow up ... I ended up picking up the "trio" of C. solorensis.
<<Beauties, ain't they?>>
In the LFS tank they were fairly washed out
color wise and showed no aggression (they were in a sand less tank w/ a
Flame Angel and couple pieces of live rock), but since they've colored
up very nicely, and voraciously eat anything and everything offered.
<<Not atypical>>
But here in lies my question, all 3 now match to
some extent the coloration of the male photo in your Cirrhilabrus
article (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/wrasses/cirrhilabrus/
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cirrhilabruspt2.htm )... And the largest
and most colorful of the three has been aggressive
<<Establishing
dominance>>
(chasing around the rockwork and nipping) towards the
other two, not to the point of tearing fins or causing cuts, but on
occasion the smallest will take to the sand during daylight hours to
evade harassment from the dominant male.
<<Maybe nothing to worry
about. I have a Leopard Wrasse pair (Macropharyngodon meleagris), they
were purchased as females and the more dominant morphed to a "super
male" which even after a year, every month or so will chase the female
to the point of hiding in the sand for a bit...she doesn't seem any the
worse for wear for it...and the male's colors seem to benefit from the
brief excitement too. If all three C. solorensis are eating and not
being physically mauled, I would be inclined to see how it plays out.>>
Is this normal behavior for Cirrhilabrus when introduced to a new home?
<<Tis normal, period... These fish (Cirrhilabrus sp.) are haremic and
will defend their territories against other males. Even with a male and
several females you will see some chasing as the male continually
establishes dominance.>>
If so, any estimate on how long this Ike and
Tina show normally lasts?
<<Will likely die down in a few weeks.>>
Or is it probable that my "trio" is actually a group of males.
<<Possibly...or maybe the "lesser" two are/were in the process of
changing to males when collected.>>
How sexually dimorphic is C.
Solorensis... Are the pictures in the article representative of all
female Solorensis?
<<Probably not "all", as coloring is effected by
diet, environmental conditions...>>
In your opinion would I be best
to split them up now, or at what point would you suggest separating
them?
<<Separate once it becomes obvious they (it) are becoming
mal-affected.>>
Are there any other tricks that might settle the
aggression...
<<Remove the dominant male...rearrange the rock and let
the other two wrasses become "settled" for a week...reintroduce the
male.>>
I do have a mature Bicolor Angel that I could move into their
tank that would happily beat on all of them <<Hee!>>, or I could move a
few Chromis or possibly even a pair of black Ocellaris clowns in.
<<A
few Chromis might provide some diversion.>>
Either way, the earliest
I would feel safe moving an aggressor or dither in is a couple more
weeks as I wouldn't want to risk any of my other fish, prior to
observing a month of sustained good health from my new Cirrhilabrus.
Btw... I remember reading (I think it was in Mr. Fenner's CMA, but it
could have been in Paletta's New Marine Aquarium), that in a large
enough system male Cirrhilabrus can revert back to female, any idea's on
the time scale involved in this transformation?
<<I have heard of
this with "not yet completely turned" males, but I have never witnessed
it. At any rate I would think it would take some weeks to happen.>>
Thanks
Andy
<<Good luck Andy...I'd be interested to know how
things turn out. EricR>> Stocking Fairy Wrasses 8/31/05
Hi,
<Hi there! Scott F. with you today!>
I have a 90 gallons aq.
with live rock and corals, I have a Lubbock Wrasse and would like to add
an Exquisite Wrasse. Are they compatible? Thanks,
AJ
<Well, AJ,
both of these fishes are from the genus Cirrhilabrus, and are found in
nature in fairly sizeable, mixed-sex groupings. A dominant male defends
a "harem" of females and subordinate males. This is a great way to keep
them in captivity. In a situation where you'd simply have two (probably
male) fish in your system, I'd be a bit hesitant. However, if you are
able to obtain males and females of both species, you may have better
luck. In my experience, it is possible to mix individual males of
different Fairy Wrasses together, if you have both males and females of
each species in the mix, if the tank is large enough, and if there is
enough "territory". If you manage to obtain a group of just females
(kind of rare, because males are more commonly collected), you'll be
pleased to see one of the females (the dominant one) turn into a lovely
make in a short amount of time (the fish is known as a "protogynous
hermaphrodite"). See if you can get some females to throw into the mix!
Good luck! Regards, Scott F. > - Fairy Wrasse and Clown Gobies -
Hey Bob
<Actually, JasonC today...>
You will not remember me but
you answered many of my questions back when you were working with the
now defunct flyingfishexpress.com folks. <Seems like a long time ago.>
Thanks for all that info, it helped me a lot.
I'm putting together a
new system, a basic reef with a RBT anemone and 2 Percs (had them for
years) under MH lights. The tank is a 110 gal, 30 high, 48 long, 18 back
to front with a massive skimmer (Euro-Reef CS8-2), 20 gal refugium with
6 inch DSB, 35 gal total in sump. There will be 4 Maxi-jets hooked to
a wave-maker/controller, and I have not decided on the size of the
Maxi-jets. There will be corals in the tank, however the focus is going
to be on flasher and fairy wrasse.
If I do my home work,
and pick the wrasse for size and color to offset aggression, how many
individuals could my system hold? <I wouldn't go nuts with fairy wrasses
- even though they aren't typically aggressive fish, mixing more than
two species in your tank might lead to trouble. You could do male/female
pairs of each.> Also, are the various clown gobies (Gobiodon sp) able to
live with fairy wrasse? <Sure.>
Thanks for the help!
Rich
<Cheers, J -- > Wrasse Harem
Hi,
<Hi there!
Scott F. with you today!>
First, I would like to say Thanks for your
website, I think it is the best site online. I have spent many hours
reading all the information there and your site has helped my further my
knowledge about this hobby more than anywhere else. I have such high
respect for people so dedicated to this hobby.
<Thanks so much for
the kind words. I'm lucky to work with some great people here!>
On
with my question, I am interested in purchasing a Cirrhilabrus
luteovittatus , but I have seen some info that says they are
semi-aggressive. I have a very peaceful tank (72 gallon) so I was
wondering if you would tell me your opinion on this fish. Would he
cause any problems in my tank with the other peaceful fish. I have a
Purple Firefish, Clown Goby, Court Jester, Possum Wrasse, 3 small
juvenile flasher wrasse (Carpenter), Exquisite Wrasse, and a
Cirrhilabrus solorensis and some shrimp.
<Nice mix of peaceful,
colorful fish there! I like that mix! In fact, I'd call it near perfect!
Personally, I have not had any problems mixing different fairy or
flasher wrasses together, as long as sufficient space is provided. Yes,
there is a social dynamic that may be disrupted. In wrasse communities,
I generally worry for the newcomer, not the other way around. If you do
add the new fish, observe very carefully and be prepared to take action,
if necessary. There are no guarantees, unfortunately!>
Also, if you
have time, could you please tell me how you can tell the difference
between male and female flasher wrasses.
<Well, from an external
standpoint, it's generally color and extended finnage on males. Females,
almost across the board, are not as colorful as males. It's usually that
simple. I know that's not much to go on, but that's usually the best way
to tell. If you want a mixed group, buy a few immature specimens, wait a
few months, and one will definitely turn into a male...>
When I
purchased them at my LFS, they said they were capable of changing sexes
so that one would turn into a male, leaving the other 2 female. So my
question is, is this true because I purchased them so that I could have
a harem, but so far I can not tell much difference in them after 4
months.
<Give 'em more time...It will eventually happen...Could even
take longer, but it will happen>
They rarely ever swim together but 2
of them are always flashing. The only difference is that the 2 that are
always flashing have 2 elongated rays on their dorsal fins and have blue
lines and
the other one has 3 rays but her stripes are not blue, just
a darker orange. I'm just guessing, but it seems like so far, I have 2
males and one female.
<That would be my guess, too!>
Do I have a
chance of them turning into a harem with one male and 2 females? I would
really appreciate your opinion on this.
Thanks for your time,
Ashley Whittington
<I certainly think so, Ashley. Just keep everyone
happy, observe carefully, and I'll bet that harem will form! Good luck!
Regards, Scott F> Breaking The Wrasse Impasse (What Wrasses
To Mix)
Thanks for the advice Scott!
<My pleasure!>
I would
love to get a harem going but Rhomboid Wrasses are so hard to come by,
especially good ones. I'm afraid by the time
I'm finished collecting
his harem, he's too old to flash anything!
<And you might have
spent all of your retirement fund trying to get some, too!>
Are you
saying that the male wrasse is not choosy with his harem?
<In most
cases, the natural "social order" will form, and he will accept them.
This has been my experience with a number of fairy wrasse species>
And it wouldn't matter when I add them? My concern is that the male may
dislike the gals that I choose for him and decides on some domestic
violence!
<Well, there are no guarantees when you're dealing with
fish, particularly in captive situations. Fish, like people, are
individuals, and you never know what they are thinking>
And as for
other wrasses to make him sustain color, are you
speaking of other
species of fairy wrasses within the genus? They won't harass each
other?
<Well, it is possible to mix males of the same or different
species if your tank is large enough. And, in all likelihood, you'll get
to observe the "flashing" behaviour even if you keep one male with
several females of the same species. Again, of course, there are no
guarantees that the fishes won't harass each other, but it is worth
trying in a large >
I do have a mystery wrasse waiting to go into my
display, but I think they are quite different in behavior than the fairy
wrasses. Would he work to keep Rhomboid's color?
<Perhaps, as they
can occasionally encounter each other...Hard to be sure, though, as they
inhabit different environmental niches within the tank>
I know I'm
stretching...
<You're doing fine!>
Tks for your help! Roy
<My
pleasure, Roy! Enjoy the beautiful fishes that you're going to be adding
soon! Regards, Scott F> Mixing Fairy Wrasses
Hi,
<Hi
there! Scott F. with you today!>
I love your website and think it is
the coolest out there on this subject.
<Awesome! Glad you enjoy it!
We have lots of fun being here for you!>
I have two quick questions.
<Sure>
I have a 250 gallon FOWLR and am curious if wrasses can co
exist together when mixing. I have a male (4 inches or so) and female
(2 and a half inches) lineatus wrasse (Cirrhilabrus lineatus) and a red
headed fairy wrasse (2 and a half inches) (Cirrhilabrus
solorensis). They show no aggressive behaviour but I am not sure how
they evolve. I would really like to add one more wrasse to the
mix. Either a Laboute's fairy wrasse (Cirrhilabrus laboutei) or a
Golden Rhomboid wrasse (Cirrhilabrus rhomboidalis). Do you think this
is pushing it?
<In a smaller tank (like under 100 gallons, I'd say
that it would be pushing it. On the other hand, in a tank of this size,
there is enough physical space for fishes to avoid one another if they
need to. Ideally, Cirrhilabrus wrasses should be maintained in groups of
one male to two or more females. In nature, these fishes are found in
haremic units, with a dominant male defending a harem of subordinate
females and immature males. However, in your tank, I'd go for it. There
are, of course, no guarantees, but I think that it's worth a try>
Also, My tank parameters are perfect as of this morning. O ammonia,
Nitrite and under 5 nitrate. My sump though does not smell
appealing. Should I be cleaning my bio balls?
<Not really. But you
could use some activated carbon and/or PolyFilter to help remove the
odor. Do a little investigating around your system to see what could be
causing the offensive smell.>
Your help would be appreciated,
Thanks, Matt
<My pleasure! Regards, Scott F>
Fairy Wrasses 12/2/04
Hi! I currently have a 180g setup with
nine fish in it. Among those fish are 4 Fairy Wrasses- C. luteovittatus,
C. cyanopleura, C. lubbocki, and C. lineatus- all are males. My question
is, can a female lineatus be added safely or will she be harassed to
death by the other fairy wrasses? The local LFS has a female in stock
and she'd be the smallest of the wrasses in the tank. Your help is
greatly appreciated! Scott <Although Fairy wrasses are relatively mild
mannered (especially for wrasses!), I am surprised that those that you
already have are tolerating each other. Many fairy wrasses do live as
pairs or harems, so the M and F lineatus should be OK, but the other
males may harass her or become increasingly aggressive due to the
presence of a female. If you do attempt to add this fish, first and
foremost, quarantine! Then, be prepared to remove the other males in
decreasing order of aggression if necessary. It is strictly a matter of
taste, but if I were in your position I would be willing to give up all
of the other males to keep the M-F pair. Best Regards. AdamC.>
Re: Fairy Wrasses 12/9/04
Thanks for getting back so quickly!
<Glad to!>
I too am surprised that they all get along as well as
they do. There is so little aggression it's almost scary. Since the
addition of the lineatus there has been even less than before. It is
pretty cool, though, how they interact; i.e. color changing and flashing
as warnings. <Seeing really natural behavior is amazing!>
Just out
of curiosity, why choose the m/f lineatus over a diverse group of fairy
wrasses? Thanks again! Scott <Just a personal interest in observing
courting and knowing that fish must be in exemplary health to
breed. Best Regards. Adam> "Red"
Fairy Wrasse--Help
Hello.
<Hi there>
I saw a very
colorful fish at my local fish store that was labeled "Red Fairy
Wrasse". It was about 3"-4" long and was $56. After I went home, I
researched it and couldn't find any fish that had the common name Red
Fairy Wrasse. From my research, I concluded that all Fairy Wrasses are
peaceful, rather easy to take of, and don't get any bigger than 6" or
so.
<Fair generalization>
From my research, I concluded
that
the Fairy Wrasse at the store was of the genus Cirrhilabrus.
<Yes...
you can see a bunch of pix of these on fishbase.org, WWM:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/wrasses/cirrhilabrus/index.htm
>
First question: Is this true?... Second question: Should I buy
this fish and put it in my 70 gallon FOWLR with a Cinnamon Clownfish, a
Coral Beauty Angelfish, a Fuzzy Dwarf Lionfish, a Foxface Lo, and two
Sea Urchins?
<Is the Lion small enough to where it won't swallow the
Wrasse? Your tank is getting crowded, but behaviorally all should get
along. Bob Fenner> Re: "Red" Fairy
Wrasse--Help.
Thanks for the reply, Bob. I decided not to get
the Wrasse. I didn't have enough trust in the fish store that the Wrasse
was to buy it for $56. To answer your question about the Lionfish--yes
he is small; small enough that he doesn't even bother my Cinnamon
Clownfish. I think I may buy 1 or a trio of Banggai Cardinalfish to go
with my Black Long-since Sea urchin. Thanks again--Greg.
<Better to
shy on the side of conservancy. Bob Fenner> Don't
Pass Up A Wrasse!
Hello,
<Hi there! Scott F. here today!>
I
have a 125 reef with mainly soft corals, LPS corals. I have peaceful
fish: 3 purple Firefish, 3 red Firefish, 1 green clown goby, 1 threadfin
goby, 1 citron goby, 1 red head goby, 2 maroon clowns, 1 rose e quad.
anemone, a green e. quad, 4 cleaner shrimp, 3 fire shrimp, 6 peppermint
shrimp, 4 green Chromis, and two neon blue gobies in the mail as I
write.
<My kind of fish population! Small is beautiful, especially in
a large tank!>
I am very interested in ordering a fairy wrasse or a
flasher wrasse. I have reviewed the marine center page and there are so
many I am overwhelmed. I have tried to avoid difficult species. (I just
don't like killing things.)
<I can dig that!>
Could you recommend
some hardy, compatible, pretty species for me that stay small?
<Well,
there are, as you stated, many, many different species that stay small,
are colorful, and are easy to care for. In my experience and opinion,
you could do well with many Cirrhilabrus species. I really like C.
solorensis, C. rubriventralis, and C. scottorum (heh, heh, heh!). If
you're like me, and want to support the "home team", you could get a C.
jordani (Hawaiian Flame Wrasse)...>
(I prefer lots of small colorful
fish, rather than a few big ones, although I am seriously considering
setting up a fish only tank b/c dog face puffers and cow fish are just
too cool.)
<Diggin' this! My thoughts exactly, bruddah!>
Are fairy
wrasses and flasher wrasses really reef safe, or are they like
Centropyge's where you're always taking a chance.
<No- they really
are "reef safe", being strictly planktivorous, and not interested in
corals or sessile inverts at all. Maybe the only caveat with these
fishes (and one that's frequently overlooked by most hobbyists, IMO-is
that they are predominantly found in deeper water, and seem to behave
more "calm" in less brightly lit tanks (or perhaps, 20000k would be a
nice compromise)...Yes, they will adapt to brightly lit tanks just fine,
but this is just something that you may want to think about when
planning for these fishes. They can be kept individually, or in small
groups- like 3 females to one male...or groups of 5 (3 females to 2
males)...>
Thank you for your help, John Kim
<Any time, John! Good
luck with your tank(s)!> Don't Pass Up A Wrasse (Pt. 2)
Scott,
<Good morning!>
I forgot to mention that I have one blue
mandarin. Will the wrasse compete with it for food. Again thank you for
your help.
John
<Well, John, I'd have to say an unqualified "no".
Fairy and flasher wrasses tend to pick food from the water column,
whereas Mandarins generally confine their feeding to the substrate and
rocks. Sure, the odd Fairy Wrasse might pick something off the rocks
now and again, but the vast majority of their feeding does take place
in the open water. Hope this alleviates any lingering concerns you might
have. Good luck! Regards, Scott F> - Fairy Wrasses -
Since fairy wrasses are peaceful fish, could two of different species
co-exist? What if one was added a few weeks after the first.
Specifically Laboutei and exquisite.
<Well, for starters... it really
depends on the size of the system. But provided the system is large
enough, I would say it would probably work, however your chances are
better with a male and female of the same species rather than different
species. Cheers, J -- > Flame Wrasse
Can
I add a flame wrasse (male) to my existing 90 gallon fish only tank with
60 pounds of live rock? Below is my current livestock, water condition,
inhabitant behavior:
Livestock:
- 4" Scott's fairy (male)
-
2.5" Cuban hog
- 3" juvenile imperator
- 4" juvenile personifer
- 2" African flameback
Water Condition:
- ammonia/ nitrite = 0 ppm
- nitrate = 2 ppm
Behavior:
All specimens are behaving socially
and happily amongst each other (no aggression).
If the flame wrasse
is not a good choice, can you please make a recommendation?
Thanks.
Dan
>>
This Cirrhilabrus would fit in for now... but your ninety
is going to be getting crowded with those large angelfishes growing
up...
Bob Fenner Reef Safe Wrasses! (6/25/03)
Hello. What is a good reef safe wrasse for a 30g tank? <Many of the
fairy wrasses would be fine, one of my favorites is the Scott's fairy
wrasse. Cody> Australian Lineatus
Crew,
<Hi there>
I didn't notice this species anywhere on your website
<Here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/wrasses/cirrhilabrus/index.htm
the folks at Marine Depot have this Fairy Wrasse species name
misspelled... there is but one "n"... pls see it on fishbase.org>
but
wondered if
you knew anything about this fish. It looks very pretty
and fairly reef
safe (http://www.marinedepotlive.com/auliwrli.html).
<Is... the whole genus>
In addition, I keep
my reef between 80F
and 81.8F with Heaters and Chillers and haven't had
a problem for
2yrs.... would that be a problem for this Wrasse?
<Nope, not likely.
Just make sure you keep the whole top covered... very good jumpers. Bob
Fenner>
Christopher Slabe
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