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FAQs on Wrasse Disease/Health 2

Related Articles: Wrasses, Wrasses of the Cooks

Related FAQs: Wrasse Disease 1, Wrasses, Wrasses 2Wrasse Identification, Wrasse Selection, Wrasse Behavior, Wrasse Compatibility, Wrasse Systems, Wrasse Feeding, Wrasse Reproduction

It's a shame more wrasse species aren't offered for use in the hobby. Many are hardy and beautiful.

Re: Sick Heniochus... looking for an in-gravel wrasse   3/1/09 
Hi again Bob
Ok, I'm sort of on a roll with the whole treatment situation for ich.
I'm essentially following the protocol from the Scott F article I referenced previously (fish in isolation, treatment with copper, fallow tank for a month). Here's the problem--I cannot find my yellow wrasse.
I know that they bury themselves in the sand when threatened, but I've been hesitant to do much more than surface poking at the sand since I don't want to disrupt large amounts of chemicals that might be hiding down there. So, the question is there a way to hunt him down or do I just let him be. If I let him be, is the one fish going to mess up the
whole idea of the fallow month? I'm guessing it is. Oh, and I'm not planning on asking that fish store for any more advice--he probably wants my whole tank to die so he can sell more fish. Thanks again for your help and knowledge.
Michael
<I'd scoop about the entire bottom (with the rock out likely) with a  large-sieve net. BobF>

Wrasse Problem… Internal Parasites? – 04/01/08
Hi,
<<Hello>>
I have a 190 litre tank and my wrasse I think is ill, so could you please help before I go to my reputable aquatic shop.
<<I shall try>>
The water quality is fine except a nitrate problem which has been here for ages and we’re slowly getting to the bottom of it.
<<Mmm, depending on how much of a “nitrate problem” you have…this may well be what is malaffecting the wrasse>>
Right my wrasse is fully grown, sorry I forgot what type it is!,
<<From the photos I can tell this is an exquisite supermale-phase of Macropharyngodon meleagris (Leopard Wrasse)>>
and he usually comes out of the sand in the morning and goes back to the sand at about 6pm, however for the past week I haven’t noticed him as he only feeds in the morning. A day ago I noticed he was just sitting on top of the sand as usually he is swimming about.
<<Indeed…a very active species>>
He stays there for about 10 minutes and then will swim slowly about on top of the sand to a new place to sit. And he has only swam about an inch off the sand at the most. But as he sits he kind of flops onto his side.
<<A very bad sign>>
He looks normal to me, and if food floats by him he just moves away. Please can you give me some help as I know that this could be the start of a major problem with him.
Alex
<<It’s more than a start of a major problem, Alex. I’ve seen this kind of behavior before and it usually does not end well. The fact the fish has stopped feeding bodes very badly, in my opinion. I suspect internal parasites as the problem…very difficult to treat, considering the fish is not eating…and even then is “iffy.” You can try segregating this fish and providing dips/baths with a product like Seachem’s ParaGuard or the like…but sadly, I hold little hope for this fish at this stage. Regards, EricR>>

Re: Wrasse Problem…Internal Parasites? – 04/04/08
Hi, sorry again EricR!
<<No worries>>
I have been to my local fish shop (who is very good) and says that there isn’t much to lead on in the way of a diagnosis and he said it could be his swim bladder if he goes onto his side, I will ask him about parasites. Yet I thought internal parasites could cause the swim bladder to go?
<<Hmm, I suppose so…would think they could/would cause many issues with internal organs>>
+ how could the parasites get there?
<<Likely “came with.” Do read here and among the links at the top of the page: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/parasiti.htm >>
None of the other fish are showing any signs of problems hovercraft boxfish, flame angel, 2x black ocellaris clown fish and a solandri puffer, all fully grown except the hovercraft as he is young and I know he will out grow the tank in a few years but we have plans 2 move him. And they are all eating.
<<This is not uncommon/is often the case. Internal parasitic issues are often isolated cases…in “my” experience>>
If it is parasites can it spread?
<<Internal parasites seem less likely to do this than external types…due to a lack of intermediaries or due to being species specific>>
Will I be able to see the parasites?
<<Not without a necropsy of the fish>>
If it is parasites? Would the purchasing of a UV sterilizer remove them?
<<No>>
Sorry for kind of wasting your time however I want the problem to be fixed.
<<As stated in my previous reply…if my diagnosis is correct, I do not think this is “fixable” at this stage of the progression>>
Alex
<<EricR>>

Mystery Wrasse Disease 12/15/2007
Hello WWM crew. Your website has given me years of valuable info. I have used the experiences of others on your site for years to learn about this great hobby. Now I have a problem of my own that I would greatly appreciate your help. I came home today and realized that my prize fish, a 4 inch mystery wrasse, has some sort of "disease" covering his mouth. This disease looks like fluffy white whiskers coming out of his mouth. These whiskers appear to be coming from inside the mouth and do not allow him to close his mouth.
<Not good... likely resultant from a physical trauma ("jumping")...>
I am at a loss because I have not seen anything similar to this before. I have had some run ins with marine velvet in the past, but this looks nothing like a parasite.
<Is simple decomposers...>
In my (clueless) opinion it seems like some sort of fungus growing out of his mouth.
<Likely bacterial...>
The tank is a 120 gallon that has been up for about a year. I have finally gotten around to quarantining all new specimens, and have done so throughout the entire life of this tank. Below I have attached a picture of the wrasse.
<Didn't come through.>
 It is not very helpful because the white "whiskers" around his mouth blend with the color of the mouth, but you can kind of see them along the bottom of his mouth. Hopefully this will help you in your assessment. Thanks in advance for your help with this problem, and thank you for all the help you have provided others. This is a valuable resource for all marine aquarists.
<Not much to do here... Perhaps adding more iodine-ide-ate in whatever format you currently use would be of help... Otherwise, waiting, hoping... maintaining optimized, stable conditions is about it. Bob Fenner>

New black dots on a 8 line wrasse question  3/16/2007
Hi Guys,
<Matt>
Greetings from sunny Adelaide, Australia. First off love the site and all the great work that has been put into it. I searched the wrasse FAQ but couldn't find a answer so here goes a email
<Good>
280L tank, all the levels are right (bar it being a little warmer than most tanks but that's a different story) and none of the other tank mates seem to have any issues. He's still eating as per normal (he's doubled in size since I got him 6-7 months ago) and swimming around like the speed demon he is.
The black marks (it looks like ink marks) on both sides appeared in the last couple of days and therefore I'm very interested to know what they are ?
<Mmm, if this were unilateral (one-sided) I would jump (?) to the ascertain that this was likely a mechanical injury, nervous reaction... But both sides?>
Since they are on both sides I don't believe they are a scratch, I'm more leaning towards a infection of some type. from my reading maybe even a UTI ?
<Mmmmm>
Attached are a left & right photo and a circle has been placed around the area of interest.
Cheers
Matt
<Any other livestock showing signs of distress? Anything showing up in water quality tests? Something different done the last few days? I still suspect this is some sort of injury reaction... Bob Fenner, who would "wait and see" here>

Wrasse with swollen lips  3/10/07
Hello,
I have a sixline wrasse with what I believe is a bacterial infection.
<Mmmm>
I am in college so my parents take care of my fish while I am away. While I love my parents they never seem to alert me to these problems while I am away, so I have no idea how long this has been going on. Now that I am home for spring break, I have transferred the sixline to an established quarantine (31 ppt salinity, 0 ammonia, 0 nitrate, 0 nitrite, 8.3 pH) after trapping him in a plastic container to observe and possibly treat the wrasse with a pH adjusted freshwater methylene blue dip. I am hesitant because I had trouble making a diagnosis from the mostly-vague disease descriptions that I found in my available books and web resources. I have attached photos of the wrasse's mouth.
<I see these>
The wrasse also has some raised patches of light white on its body and is twitching slightly. Although he is eating Mysis shrimp and flake food well I have not seen any feces as of yet. If you have any ideas as to what the affliction is and possible courses of treatment please let me know.
Thank you,
Caitlyn
<Is not really a disease as in an infectious or parasitic affliction... not pathogenic... But, skipping ahead, this is not an uncommon "developmental" condition from this specimen being damaged in capture, shipping, handling, perhaps a trauma in your system... The long and short of it, is that this is not "treatable"... but the specimen looks healthy otherwise. I would not "treat" it. Bob Fenner>

Re: Wrasse with swollen lips  3/10/07
Hi Again,
Thank you for your quick reply. I do not know what to say as the wrasse's condition has deteriorated greatly overnight, upon observation this morning its face was completely swollen with some rough growths.
<Yikes... I obviously "spoke"/keyed too "soon"... perhaps there is something else at play here... Though I stand semi-firmly by my guess as to primary cause here. Mechanical injury>
I performed a 50 percent water change although water quality had revealed nothing. The fish is breathing heavily and lying on the bottom of the QT. The fish's condition
has worsened extremely since I have been home. Still nothing I can do??
Please help, I do not think this is only stress.
<I don't think there is anything efficacious you can actually do at this point. Such "developments" almost always quickly progress at this stage to death... sorry to state. BobF>

Wrasse Injury and Behavior - Help!  2/12/07
Hi WWM Crew -
<Beth>
Long time reader, first time writer.  I did some searching and didn't really see anything that fit the bill.  Tried using the links to the public chat forum and I get a "500 Servlet Exception" error.
<Will cc Zo... the "maker" here re>
Reef tank Basics:
225 gallon tank (been up and running since 08/11/2005)
~200 pounds live rock and ~70 pounds live sand
Protein skimmer, chiller, RO/DI water, use Tropic Marin PRO salt
Lighting: 4 96W 10000k power compact,  4 96W actinic power compact, 2 metal halides (250W each)
Water params: pH 8.0, Nitrates 20 (reading prior to 45 gallon water change today - so that should go down), Nitrites trace (not 0, but not on scale to measure with test kit), Ammonia 0, iodine 0.4, phosphate 0 - 0.1, alkalinity 2.5, calcium 390
Livestock:
Tangs: Clown Tang, Yellow Tang, Blue Tang
2 tank raised Ocellaris Clowns
Diamond Watchman Goby
2 Blue/Green Chromis
Mandarin Goby
Wrasses: Redtail Wrasse, male/female pair Hawaiian Flasher Wrasses,
<How nice! Jordan's>
6 Line Wrasse, Christmas Wrasse, New Guinea Wrasse, and Clown Wrasse
<... this last may get VERY large>
2 Fire Shrimp
7 peppermint shrimp (although I can only account for 3 at time of writing)
1 Sally Lightfoot Crab
<Am quite surprised your wrasses haven't eaten the crustaceans>
1 Orange Linckia Starfish
1 Sand-Sifting Starfish
1 Brittle Starfish
Various corals (Brain, Galaxea, Frogspawn, Ricordea mushroom, unknown mushroom species, 3 kinds of zoanthid, candy cane coral, torch coral, Blasto, 2 different cup corals, 2 leather corals, xenia, colt)
Writing today with two issues/questions about two of our established wrasses.
Redtail wrasse (in display tank since 10/23/2005)
Flame wrasse pair (in display tank since 01/21/2006)
We have noticed some coloration changes in the redtail wrasse.  It's head has started to fade a bit in its coloration.
<Mmm... may be natural... Males do change in this way with age, growth>
Her tail also does not seem as vibrant a red as it once was.  We also noticed today that it was chasing the Christmas Wrasse, picking at the front of the acrylic tank (making a snapping noise) and acting a bit "funkier" than usual.  It is eating well.  While I know that diet can affect a fishes coloration, I don't think that is what it is as the other fish don't seem to be affected.  We change up what is fed to the corals every couple of days.  The fish get frozen cube food: herbivore (green) every day and then Mysis or a mix of brine and krill.  On occasion will add garlic extreme to the food mixture.  Also add a seaweed variety (sheets of either red, brown, or green seaweed) for the tangs.  Notice that sometimes the wrasses pick at this as well.
<No worries... are pretty omnivorous>
  Recently ordered some of the additives I've read about in some of the postings on the site, so will be trying
those in the next couple of days.
<Are of benefit, use>
Since the redtail does not appear to be sick or injured, is it possible it is changing into a male?
<Yes>
  How long does a typical transformation take (days, weeks)?  
<Weeks to months>
Any other ideas aside from diet on the change in it's head color?
<All sorts... see fishbase.org for more pix>
Now onto the next question.  We have a pair of Hawaiian Flame Wrasses.  Yesterday I noticed the male's snout seemed a bit off kilter (pushed in on the top).  My husband thought that he ate during the first feeding, but is now not 100% positive about that.  During the second feeding last night I saw him momentarily and thought he looked different.  He did not eat and hid until lights out.  This morning I found him in his normal hangout and his nose does look off.  He sees fine as he will dart away when an object is placed in the tank near him.  He has come out and swam around.  No other tank inhabitants seem to be bothering him.  He did not come out and eat during the first feeding.  He did pop out afterward when there was still some food in the tank, but can't say that he ate very much if at all.  We thought about trying to quarantine, however he does not seem to want to be caught and I don't want to stress him more (or his mate) by removing him (if it's even possible to
catch him).
<I would leave this fish where it is>
  My guess is that he either hit the tank wall or was injured by another fish.
<I'd go with the first guess... from "jumping">
  Unless it was the redtail, not even sure who the culprit would be?  The newest tank mate is the clown wrasse
<What species is this?>
(in residence about 2 weeks in the display tank) and is 1/3 to 1/2 the size of the male flame wrasse.  I know it's trouble if he won't eat, but how long do we let him go?  Any ideas or suggestions?
Thanks!
Beth
<Really just to keep trying... different foods... and add the supplements to the foods and water>
P.S.  I don't have any pics to send at this time, but we do have a fish cam set up.  If you want to take a look I have included the address, but am hoping that you won't post that piece as I don't think our home computer network could take the traffic.
<I will delete here>
You can pan the cam left and right and zoom in.  Redtail wrasse is out and about.  Female flame is out and you can probably see her, but the male is hiding since the water change started.  His hangout is left of center tank on a rock shelf under the xenia, left of the candy cane and above and behind the Galaxea.
<Bob Fenner>

Sixline wrasse 1/1/07
Hey, I purchased a sixline wrasse about 3 days ago. My water parameters are all fine.  <Numbers next time, fine is relative.> But anyway, my wrasse is active and eating and seems do be doing well. My problem is that on the wrasse's left side, past the gill,  there is discoloration. I don't know how to describe this, it just seems like a patch of discoloration on the skin. Please get back to me with any ideas of what this could be, thanks a lot,
Mael
<Could be lots of things, physical damage, beginnings of a nutritional deficiency, disease, or just normal genetic variation.  Hard to be specific without more information and a picture.>
<Chris>

Klunzinger's Wrasse Acting Strange/Proper Preparation of Natural Seawater - 08/13/06
Hi Mr. Fenner,
<<EricR here this morning>>
Hope everything is fine there…
<<Yes, thank you>>
Here is a problem which I don’t know yet whether it’s a big problem or a small problem.
<<Hmm, let's see then...>>
It’s about the behavior of my Klunzinger's Wrasse
(Thalassoma klunzingeri).
<<A very neat/attractive fish>>
He has been acting totally weird lately.  He was the type to cruise around the tank searching for food (ate very well) and even when I clean the tank he never hides.
<<Typical, yes>>
But 2-days ago he never came up to the surface from his hiding place inside the sand bed.  So I thought he was tired or something but the next day also he never showed up so I was obviously scared as I thought he was dead.
<<Not necessarily...have observed this behavior in other/similar species>>
Then I put my hands inside and tried to search for him inside the sand then suddenly he just came out moved around like lightning and vanished under the sand again.
<<Yikes!...I wouldn't do this, quite stressful to the wrasse>>
I repeated my actions again once but got the same results & since then he is hiding.
<<Best to leave the wrasse be>>
My water quality: Ammonia 0.02 & Nitrite 0.05.
<<Mmm, should be "zero"...and may be what is affecting/mal-affecting the wrasse>>
I use normal seawater for monthly 20% water changes which I collect from the shallow sea so I don’t think I can maintain my Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate at '0' levels.
<<This is distressing to read.  Unless you are properly "processing" this water (please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/seawater.htm) you are likely introducing pollutants and pathogens to your system>>
Am I right???
<<Indeed my friend...this is "false economy"...and may likely mean the ultimate demise of your fish/system>>
I didn’t check for Nitrate as my test kit is over. Salinity: 1.020.
<<Salinity should be 1.025/.026>>
My tank is 80G and has only another Blue tang and a Bannerfish which are normal at this moment.
<<Mmm, must mention...this tank is too small for the tang in the long-term...and marginal for the Bannerfish...in my opinion>>
My green algae growth is fine
<<I'll bet...>>
& I have a lot of live rock.  What do you think about this situation?
<<I have seen these "burrowing" wrasse hide before for as long as seven days when pestered.  In this case I think the problem is environmental (water chemistry issues/pathogens)>>
What’s up with him?
<<Something in your system/water is bothering the wrasse>>
Will he be normal again or should I expect the worst?
<<Properly quarantine/treat/buffer the NSW, or better yet, convert to synthetic, and you will likely see an improvement>>
Thanks, best regards,
Rachel  
<<Cheers my friend.  EricR>>

Hawaiian Fourline Wrasse w/ white spots  7/23/06
I have a question about my Hawaiian Fourline Wrasse (Pseudocheilinus tetrataenia)... He's been in my reef tank for a little over a year, and over the last few weeks, when the fish wakes up in the morning, he has small white spots on his body and fins, 30 or 40 spots total. These spots resemble grains of salt, and within 3 or 4 hours of the lights coming on, they are all gone.
<Is Cryptocaryon>
  I am wondering if these are just pieces of sand & debris that the fish picks up when he hides or buries himself at night?
<Mmm, no>
If so, I don't know why they would suddenly appear after a year's time?
<A latent, space-infested problem...>
If they are a skin parasite or some sort of infection, then why would they disappear every day?
<Improvement in the diurnal resistance, immune system of the host... the spots are not the parasite... the parasite not the spots... but the resultant irritation marks...>
The Hawaiian Fourline Wrasse it acting normal, and has a healthy appetite.  He is not being harassed by any other fish or invertebrates.
All of the other occupants of the tank appear completely healthy.
Water parameters:
pH - 8.3
Nitrite, Ammonia - 0
Nitrate - undetectable
Calcium - 410ppm
dKH - 11
SG - 1.026
Temperature ranges from 81.7F-83.1F daily
Thank you in advance for any advice,
Steve in Denver
<Could be that you might get by with this "ping-ponging" situation for years hence... Much more likely "something/s" will change to shift the balance in the parasites favor... see WWM re Crypt... what you might do/consider for actual eradication. Bob Fenner>

Green Wrasse and Ich? Labrid ID, Disease   7/18/06
Hi Crew,
<Lynne>
I just bought a Green Wrasse
<Gomphosus varius?>
from my LFS on yesterday (Sunday). He's a solid size at about 2 and a half inches long.
<... male coloration at this size? Maybe this is a Halichoeres species...?>
I acclimated him to my QT where he is now. He is eating heartily and is starting to swim around and explore the tank after an initial 24 hour period hiding behind a rock.
I looked him over very closely at the store and he appeared to be very healthy and a very active swimmer. I did not see any blemishes or spots and there were no other dead or unhealthy looking fish in the tank he came out of.
I purchased him because everything I've read about Wrasses is that they are very hearty and disease resistant.
<Umm, no... the family Labridae has a huge span/range of suitability for aquarium use. Some species, genera rarely live...>
The store clerk said Wrasses rarely get sick because they have a very heavy slime coat.
<Incorrect>
When I was feeding him tonight (Monday) I noticed what appears to be 2 tiny white spots on his back fin. He has been hanging out in the sand but the spots do not look like sand stuck to his fin, although I suppose they could be.
I'm really starting to get concerned as I paid $60 for him and I am sooooo paranoid of Ich, that is why I quarantine all my new arrivals for a solid 30 days before moving them to the display tank.
Do you think I should be concerned about Ich with this Wrasse and how long do I wait before treating him?
<... Till it appears that this is really parasitic>
I do not want to treat him unless it is absolutely necessary.
Any advice would be very much appreciated!
Thank you very much.
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/wrasses/index.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
 

Disease ID (photo attached)   6/28/06
Dear WWM crew:
<Jeff>
It seems I need your generous assistance again.  My yellow "coris"/Golden/Canary wrasse (Halichoeres chrysus) has a pale light pink
"spot" near its tail fin and anal fin (but only on the body, not the fins).   In the attached photo, you can barely make out a light pink (almost white)
area near the said fins the spans about half the height of the fish.  I hope the attached photo is good enough (the glass is not clear and has some algae
growth; and the camera is not suited for this kind of shot).  The yellow coris also scratches itself against the rocks on that light pink area.  This
is the only abnormal behavior I've observed.  He is otherwise eating, foraging for 'pods, coming out to swim during the day and burying itself in
the sand at night.  Can you identify what disease this might be?  And if so what's the treatment?  Thank you for all your help.
J.N.F.
<Does appear to be some sort of mild petecchia... surface bloodiness... due to what however? I would do your best to continue to provide good care here (low nitrates, decent nutrition) and not specifically "medicate" per se. Bob Fenner>

- Please help, sick wrasse! 6/15/06 -
I have a 4 year-old Red Head Solon Fairy Wrasse that I fear is ill. It's left eye is bulging out and distorted. It still eats well, but is more shy and spends most of the day hiding among the live rock, but otherwise seems relatively ok. It's color is good and doesn't seem to be breathing abnormally. Is there some kind of disease that would cause this? <Sounds to me like Popeye, although I'd look carefully at this eye to make certain it doesn't look like it has an air bubble in there. If it is just swollen then it can heal and return to normal.> Is there some kind of treatment I can give it? <Not directly. You could add some Epsom salts - about one tablespoon per five gallons (which will effect your salinity) to help with the swelling. Not much else you could do beyond catching the fish and letting it recover in a quiet tank by itself.> It is housed in a 120 gal. with a percula clown, a pajama cardinal, and a 21 year-old pair maroon clown and large carpet anemone. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated as I have grown quite attached to the beautiful wrasse. <Mostly I can wish you luck and we can both hope for the best.>
Sincerely,
Josh C.
Atlanta, GA
<Cheers, J -- >

Male bird wrasse scratching  - 2/21/2006
Greeting from down under to the crew at wet web media. I have a question about a male bird wrasse i purchased 2 months ago.
He is 7 inches long, eats well, very active swimmer and looks really health. NO external signs of disease. But he has a habit of rubbing or scratching
himself on the aquarium glass at the back of the tank. Now i have noticed he does this a lot when i am near the tank and sometimes it is a constant thing
just swimming around in a circle and rubbing itself when he passes the glass. but when i walk away from the tank and stand at a distance so that he
cannot see me the rubbing or scratching seems to ease. He is the only fish that does this and has done it since i put him in.
<Not atypical for the species...>
I have a 150 gallon glass aquarium, 8ft long 2ft high and 1.5ft wide. I have two external canister filters, an overflow into a 30 gallon sump, an
aqua medic multi sl TurboFlotor skimmer about 140 pounds of live rock and my tank turns over about 23 times an hour.
My stock includes
1.Male bird wrasse 7inches
2.sohal tang 3inches
3.powder brown tang 3inches
4.magnificent Rabbitfish 3inches
5.pinktail triggerfish 4inches
6.emperor angel 5inches
7.bannana wrasse 2inches
ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 15ppm, ph 8.3
I have no idea what this is so if you could please try to help me that would be greatly appreciated.
THANKS..
<I wouldn't over-react here... but just watch and wait... Likely to be some troubles as time goes by with dominance by the Sohal BTW. Bob Fenner>

My 6 line wrasse needs help   2/1/06
I am trying to save a 6 line wrasse I bought about 4 weeks ago.  It had a large abdomen at the time but seemed otherwise healthy.  Over the last
few weeks its abdomen has swelled greatly.  Its now has severe buoyancy problems, it tries to wedge its self to stay upright and flips upside
down if not moving. Its vent is inflamed, and at times a thick ivory colored mass seems to protrude then retract.  I am treating with MelaFix
<Worse than worthless>
in a hospital tank, and suspecting an intestinal worm or other parasite.
<Maybe>
The fish is still eating well.   Is there any thing I can do to help this fish or is euthanasia the best option?
Thank you for your help,
Kim    
<Only if in your opinion the animal is "overly" suffering. I would add a level teaspoon of Epsom Salt per ten gallons of system water here... and see if "this too passes". Bob Fenner>

Re: my 6 line wrasse needs help   2/2/06
Hi Bob, Thanks for the response! I will try your suggestion, I hadn't considered Epsom salt.  
<A very useful, inexpensive, readily available, safe cathartic>
I did use Prazipro last night, which is fish Droncit and ordered Discomed on line last night when no one in town had it.  I gave a brief, 2-3 minute dip, which it didn't seem to enjoy much as it thrashed about, I removed it when its breathing became labored.   But right away worms began being expelled.
<Interesting>
  They were almost ? inch long, very thin on one end with the thicker part the last to come out.
<Likely either nematodes or acanthocephalans>
One was still alive but died right away. I looked at it under a microscope and didn't see any obvious segments.
<Cutting a coronal section near the distal (head) end and looking end-on may reveal a roundworm definitive triradiate esophagus>
The fish abdomen was much smaller this morning and it seems a bit better able to maintain its balance. Two more questions if I may:
If it survives, I am wondering how I will know when it is "cured" and safe to go into a tank?  
<A few weeks...>
This is my first experience with this problem, so I am also wondering how infectious this type of problem can be?    
<Mmm, as in spreading to other fish species? Not very in general... and all fishes (and humans for that matter) have gut and parasite fauna>
I had hoped the MelaFix would help with the vent inflammation, I take it your not a fan. I will stop using it today.  
<I would (stop)>
Looking forward to seeing you again at the WMC, Morgan tells me he may be coming as well.   It should be a great time.
Thanks again for your help.
Kim
<Will indeed... and twill be a hoot. See you then/there. Bob Fenner>

Re: Much improved but still has balance problems...   2/7/06
The 6 line wrasse I wrote you about is doing much better, the swelling is about gone.  Tomorrow will be 1 week on the dewormer so I plan to
stop that treatment.
<Good>
I have been using the 1 tsp per gallon Epsom salt treatment as well. The only remaining symptom is the balance problem.  This  hasn't gone away.  
<May, with time, or no>
Other than a few more days on the Epsom is there anything else you would suggest to correct this problem?
Thanks, Kim
<Only good nutrition and water quality... and precious time going by. Bob Fenner>

Hypersalinity and Wrasse Death - 12/21/2005
We had our first fish loss and was wondering why.
<Ok>
On Saturday, we picked up a Cirrhilabrus solorensis for our 40 gallon aquarium. The LFS has salinity of 1.021 and we are at 1.024 to 1.025. (I'm trying to bring it down slightly with water changes). The wrasse was at the LFS for 2 weeks. We acclimated for 65 minutes,
<Not long enough. Should have been adjusted over a couple of days at least.>
then a put in a drop of a blue solution that the LFS gave me in the past fish purchases (a mix of 3 solutions, no copper) for a minute. The wrasse was not bothered.
<Even though, it would be better to learn the name of this "solution" for a better understanding of its use/ applications.>
In the tank he went. (Yes, no QT).
<A little QT time would have been a perfect place for a slow acclimation.>
He then ate a meal of flake food and a meal of mysis shrimp that day. The wrasse was a half inch bigger than any other fish, but seemed to be a bit of a wimp. The Gramma loreto chased it out of the Gramma's favorite cave; no contact, but the typical big opening of the Gramma's mouth. The "alpha" Chromis viridis took a couple of runs at the wrasse. The Amphiprion ocellaris, the other Chromis viridis, and the 2 cleaner shrimp ignored it. The wrasse found a cave that nobody ever liked, so I figured it was fine. I didn't see it for a day, and tonight during my water change I noticed it dead in the thick group of macro algae. There were no signs of disease or wounds. On Sunday night, my readings were: nitrate / nitrate/ ammonia 0, phosphate 0.08, calcium 500, alkalinity 13.4 (it had been low in the past and I brought it up in the past week),
<A bit too much huh?>
temp is always 77-78.
     Was my acclimation too fast for the specific gravity difference?
<Yes.>
Was the intimidation by other fish a factor?
<Not likely, it takes much longer for that. Many signs (degrading health, not eating, Etc.>
Could it have gotten tangled in the macro algae?
<Not the cause for sure, perhaps the result of corps meets current.>
Was this a delayed shipping effect?
<Possibly. Maybe the fish was already weak.>
Any hunches would be appreciated.
<I do believe it was the sudden increase in salinity, perhaps pH (I don't see that one). Be careful with you calcium and salinity levels. Your in the "storm conditions" zone. May have carbonate precipitation soon. - Josh>

Strange growth under gill plate  11/15/05
Hi,
<Howdy>
I have a lunar wrasse in a 90 gal tank along with a queen angel,
<Will get too large... psychologically first, then if it survives, physiologically, for this system>
a Condy anemone and some hermit crabs. The problem is with the wrasse. He has a strange growth protruding from under his gill plate, toward the rear. It sticks out just past and along the edge of the back part of the gill plate. It is bubble-like in appearance and sort of translucent, not a solid looking mass of tissue. Kind of like little water filled balloons (it looks as strange as it sounds). It labors his breathing and he is more lethargic now. 
He has been lethargic with a decrease in appetite for several months and I suspected something was wrong. Well, this problem is visible now with this growth or whatever coming out from under his gill plate. It has been visible for several weeks now. He's been doing ok for a while now with it, other than the aforementioned symptoms and just not being his normal energetic and curious self.
<Likely the actual gill, branchiostegal (supporting member) itself... from a physical trauma... a bump, or jump...>
The system parameters are in healthy ranges - salinity 1.023-1.025 pH 8.1 temp. 76-78* Amm. 0 Nitrates 40 Nitrites 0
Everything else in the tank is fine and show no signs of illness. Do you have any idea what this could be? Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
Tim
<This genus, species of wrasse/s are very active... the Angel could have "spooked" it... Not much to do re... but hope for a self-cure. Bob Fenner> 

Re: strange growth under gill plate  11/16/05
Thanks for the response. I've been watching it over time and it seems to be slowly growing/getting bigger. Would that be typical if it were caused by trauma?
<Mmm, yes... if not directly fatal, often this critically important tissue will enlarge, over-grow such traumas>
What concerns me most is the length of time that this has been a problem; it doesn't seem to getting any better; if anything, worse.  Also, were you referring to the angel or the wrasse about getting too big?
Thanks again for your help.
<The Queen. Bob Fenner>

Re: strange growth under gill plate  11/16/05
Hey Bob,
Sorry to keep bothering you with this same problem.
<No worries>
I looked up in fishbase the gill area, i.e. branchiostegal and membrane. That all looks normal on this fish. The growth is underneath that and coming from inside, out towards the back of the gill opening.
<Mmmm, could be a goiter... a tumorous growth related to Chromaffin tissue... akin to Thyroids in tetrapods>
It is getting bigger/swelling more.  Is there anything else inside there that could swell like this or is it maybe a growth of some other tissue? 
<Yes... I would immediately try adding iodine/iodide (Lugol's solution) to the fish's foods, and to the tank water once a week>
I'm afraid I'm going to lose this fish eventually and just would like to get this identified to see if anything can be done, so I appreciate you patience and help.
<Sorry for not mentioning this possibility earlier. Cheers, Bob Fenner> 

Re: strange growth under gill plate  11/17/05
Bob,
<Tim>
I got the Lugol's solution from Kent Marine. It gives directions for adding it to the water, but no info on how to use it in food. Should I use part of the recommended dosage in the food and the other part in the water? 
<A drop or two per food session is about right... ten, fifteen minutes before offering>
Do I only dose the food once a week - along with the water as you mentioned? Or does it need to be in the food daily/more frequently for now? It seems you really need to be careful with this stuff from what it says and I don't want
to over do it (or under either). Thanks again for all your help!
Tim
<Correct... In general one only wants to provide iodine/ide with testing. Not a real problem at this juncture, in your circumstances. Bob Fenner>

Re: strange growth under gill plate - Almost Instant Success!  11/18/05
Great, I'll stick to that regimen until this clears up. I gave him a drop last night in his food and, I tell ya Bob, this fish already looks a whole lot better! He is swimming around a lot and eating much better. The swelling has gone down too. I think you nailed this one. I can't thank you enough for your help and patience with this. It's much appreciated!
Blessings,
Tim
<Ah, glad to hear of the fish's improvement, your success. Bob Fenner> 

Is it common for Wrasses to go blind? Not too uncommon 11/3/05
I have a 55 gallon tank with 4 fish. (Purple Tang, Flame Angel, Clown Fish, Green Bird Wrasse)
<Mmm, will be too crowded... psychologically>
I have had this tank for 3 years now. There have been no problems and the only fish that has died on me was my harlequin tusk. He went blind.
<Happens>
I tried to hand feed him, but after months of suffering, he finally died. A few months later, I replaced him with a green bird wrasse, who has done just fine except this past week, it seems like he too is becoming blind!! I do water checks every week, and 20% changes every month. I feel like the tank is in good condition. My question is, are you aware blindness being common in this species? 
Thank you
<Seems like labrids do "go blind" as a family/group much more than most other marine fishes... perhaps w/ the exception of Pteroines/Lionfishes... Is it simply stress per se? Or a lack of nutrition... bright captive lighting... even a parasitic cause? Bob Fenner> 

Constipation... ASAP fish help?!  9/21/05
Hello,
<Hi there>
I have a Red Sea Lunar  Wrasse whom is severely constipated, i just recently noticed that his rectum is swollen and red.. I called the local pet store and they said to feed him Spirulina to loosen his bowels.  This is a rare fish in which we paid quite a bit of money for and are very fond of....my question is can he die from this?
<Yes>
thanks for any information you can provide me with
<I would quickly move this fish to separate quarters and administer (add) about a level teaspoon per five actual gallons of system water of Epsom Salt (Magnesium sulfate) to the water... monitor behavior, aspects of cycling. The Spirulina takes too long, may not work... be eaten. Bob Fenner>

Lineatus Fairy Wrasse With Injured Jaw - 07/02/05
Hi, I have a beautiful lineatus fairy wrasse, appears to have a injured  jaw, I had a Aust Scott's wrasse in the tank with him, he was the boss, he never attacked him but he startled him flaring up to him showing he is king and I suspected that he banged his jaw against the glass.  It doesn't look broken but it is gapped a little and he can't close his mouth.  Will he recover from this  
injury? He shows interest in food and takes some of the smaller pieces in his mouth, kind of shakes his head after taking a few pieces in. Is there anything I can do for him.  I really don't want to lose him.  He swims just find by the way, flaring his fins and swimming proud.  Thanks, Scott.
<<Well Scott, difficult to say what might be the problem here.  Aside from immediate danger from internal injury (if present), the real problems are going to be whether this fish can still eat properly and in enough quantity to survive, and/or secondary infection from an open wound.  My recommendation would be to remove the fish to a quarantine/hospital tank where you can watch it more closely, medicate IF it becomes necessary, and feed and recover (hopefully!) free from the stresses of the display tank.  Regards, Eric R.>>

Sick Lunare Wrasse 07/01/05
Hi Guys
<And the divine goddesses here...>
As you have helped me out in the past thought I might try again. I have
a very sick Lunare wrasse. Have had him for some time now around 8 months
and he has always had a bit of a belly
Recently it started getting larger and he had a few white patches
develop around the swelling. He is in a five foot x2x4 tank all by
himself and the water quality is good. I thought it was possibly a
bacterial infection
So have treated him with the relevant LFS treatments, he has not
responded and has become worse. I have been to the vets who also think
it is bacterial and have given me some stronger antibiotics which I am
now treating him with in a separate hospital tank. They have said if
this does not work then they can inject however the mortality rate is
high so am trying to avoid this. As he does not appear to be responding
to the antibiotics is there anything else this could possibly be?
<My first and best guess... as you state the fish has always had a belly... is an internal parasite... I would try (in succession) an anthelminthic (like Praziquantel) and Metronidazole (in foods)...>
I have
also notice a small hole developing behind his gills however it looks
only skin deep at this stage? As the water is okay wondered if I am not
feeding him the correct diet, have been feeding a mix of cockles and
small mussels (rarely) is there anything better I could be feeding him?
<A wider mix of meaty, marine-originating foods. Fresh or frozen/defrosted, home-made or store bought>
Thanks any advice would be appreciated.
Kind Regards
Leigh
<Please read re the use of the stated medicines on WWM. Bob Fenner>

Mouth tumor (?) on wrasse
Good morning:
Couldn't find the answer in the archives, so I'll burden you w/ the
question:
<Okay>
I have a mature Christmas Wrasse
<There are three such commonly named labrids... this one is probably Halichoeres ornatissimus>
who has been healthy since purchase and
placement in my 125 (reef w/ deep sand bed) 8 months ago. 4 weeks ago he
began "pecking" at the back of the tank. I noticed a deformation w/ his
mouth. I put him in my QT. He also had rot on his caudal fin. MelaFix did a
fine job at that, but nothing for his mouth. It appears to be a tumor (no
visible fungus or discoloration); his upper lip has turned up, the right
side of his mouth and jaw are badly distorted, he can't close his mouth. He
doesn't appear to take any food, whether brine, Mysis, flake, whatever. I've
treated for parasites with both chelated copper sulfate and Praziquantel,
and for fungus with Nitrofurazone and Furazolidone. No improvement. He still
has his coloration and is swimming despite apparent lack of food an my
rather harsh treatments for 3 weeks. Is there any hope, or should I end his
suffering?
<If the fish appears to be wasting away I would euthanize it>
FYI, water quality in the 125 was excellent (zero ammonia, zero nitrite,
very low nitrate, no phosphate., corals and the stupid, vandal anemone all
healthy) except for low calcium.
Jon in da Nort'woods
<Some specimens do seem prone to such growths... perhaps to some degree environmentally linked. Bob Fenner>

Mysterious 6-line wrasse death
Hi Crew,
<Greg>
I hope you enjoyed a wonderful holiday season!
<Yep, lots of projects, visitings...>
  During my vacation, I took
the opportunity to purchase a 6-line wrasse (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia) and
two firefish for my 180g reef.  These fish have been in my 20g QT for 2
weeks and all appeared to be doing well (all eating flake food well) – that
was until this morning when I discovered the wrasse was dead.
<Mmm, well, one thing... flake food on any sort is not "that" nutritious...>
Yesterday I
did notice the wrasse was very still (but still very alive), under a piece
of PVC tubing.
I do not understand what would have caused this fish to die.
<Stress is easily a component here as well>
  It had no
visible spots, fungus, worms, etc. and it had a good appetite.  It had no
nipped or cloudy fins (or eyes) and it did not appear at all emaciated.  Do
“special” considerations need to be made for 6-line wrasses in QT?
<Best to supply with a bit of live rock, some live and/or meaty food>
This is
a bare-bottom tank with only a few 1” PVC pipe fittings and some red
Gracilaria for cover.  Although the firefish did occasionally swim at the
wrasses with its mouth open, I never noticed actual contact and they would
typically even share a flake of food.
I would really like to add a 6-line wrasse to my reef tank to control
flatworms and because I really enjoyed watching this fish in my QT but I am
concerned about the cause of this death after two weeks in QT.  A secondary
concern is the effect this fish could have on the ‘pod population, since I
already have a mandarin in my main tank.
I do have a 50g refugium (5” DSB +
LR. + Caulerpa & Gracilaria) attached to the 180g tank to help with ‘pod
stocking.
<This size system and refugium can easily support both/all these fishes>
My main tank also contains about 200 pounds of LR. and 2” of
aragonite.  Considering this, do you think it would be a problem to add a
6-line wrasse to my main tank (assuming I can get it through the 4 week QT
period)?
<I am inclined to suggest an extended bath/dipping procedure in lieu of actual quarantine. There are other folks here that are staunch four weeks or heck re quarantining, but I am of the opinion and experience that many smaller, shyer species of fishes are worse off for the experience... gobies, blennies, small wrasses included>
Lastly, I would also like to add a H. chrysus or a H. iridis.  Would either
of these fish live peacefully with a P. hexataenia in my reef tank?  
<Yes, both these Halichoeres species are fine here>
Would
two wrasses begin to cause the ‘pod supply to dwindle for the mandarin?
<Would put a dent in it, but I say go ahead>
As always, thank you (in advance) for the terrific advice!
--Greg
<Happy to proffer it. Bob Fenner>

Sick bird wrasse

Your web site is so helpful and for people like me who need answers it's the best place to go.<Thanks, Maybe I can help you.> My problem is with my green bird wrasse (male). For the past six weeks now he's buried under my rocks and has shown no interest in eating at all. I have been able to squirt some brine shrimp by him with a turkey baster and it appears he is getting a little to eat.  He used to be a very active swimmer and would be the first one out  anytime the lid to my 75 gallon tank opened for feeding time. I'm amazed with how little he's eaten that he's still alive. He shows no external signs of parasites or gapping gills, no marks or scratches or any discoloration. His eyes are fine and his fins are fine, he doesn't look any different, it just looks like he went shy on me.  I've tested my water almost every other day and everything appears to be fine except for a steady nitrate reading of 80 in my fish-only tank. It appears my water quality is good. I'm afraid to put him in my quarantine tank, or what I call my "death tank".  I'm know you don't have much to go on, but I just wanted to run it by you for some possible causes of his behavior and what I can do to help him. I've been offering frozen brine shrimp, frozen blood works, Formula II, other flakes with krill and shrimp in them and Spirulina pellets. If this is a nutritional deficiency what else can I provide for him, or use to entice him into eating?
Thanks for your help, it's always very appreciative.
<I think it might be a PH issue.  What is your PH at.  It should be at 8.2 to 8.3.  If it is off it will burn the wrasse. (They don't have scales.)  Otherwise, Do some waterchanges and get the nitrate down to less than 40 PPM.  That should make a difference.  Good Luck. MikeB.> Sick bird wrasse
Your web site is so helpful and for people like me who need answers
it's the best place to go. << Glad to help. >>
My problem is with my green bird wrasse (male). For the past six
weeks now he's buried under my rocks and has shown no interest in
eating at all. I have been able to squirt some brine shrimp by him
with a turkey baster and it appears he is getting a little to eat.
He used to be a very active swimmer and would be the first one out
anytime the lid to my 75 gallon tank opened for feeding time. I'm
amazed with how little he's eaten that he's still alive. He shows no
external signs of parasites or gapping gills, no marks or scratches
or any discoloration. His eyes are fine and his fins are fine, he
doesn't look any different, it just looks like he went shy on me.
I've tested my water almost every other day and everything appears to
be fine except for a steady nitrate reading of 80 in my fish-only
tank. << That is high. >> It appears my water quality is good. I'm afraid to put him in
my quarantine tank, or what I call my "death tank".
I'm know you don't have much to go on, but I just wanted to run it by
you for some possible causes of his behavior and what I can do to
help him. I've been offering frozen brine shrimp, frozen blood works,
Formula II, other flakes with krill and shrimp in them and Spirulina
pellets. If this is a nutritional deficiency what else can I provide
for him, or use to entice him into eating? << Well I love wrasse, and study them often.  But this is tough.  Thanks for addressing the nutritional area, as that was my very first concern.  Sounds like you have a healthy balanced diet for him.  So if not that, then maybe a lack of small live foods.  Most wrasses thrive on pods.  They usually do great in a tank, devour all the pods, then slowly waste away.  That is still a concern.  If not that, well I'm still taking shots in the dark.  I don't think I would remove him for fear of increasing stress, but may just wait it out and hope it has a happy ending. >>
Thanks for your help, it's always very appreciative.
<<  Blundell  >>

Treating A Cleaner Wrasse
Dear Crew members,
<Scott F. here today!>
I have a common cleaner wrasse, which has lived for more than 6 months in my tank. It adapts well in the environment & I must confess that it seldom does any cleaning on other fish. Taking in dried flakes (small pieces ..), minute chopped shrimp meats & some Nori ..etc, it eats anything & is extremely active.
<Glad to hear that...We really discourage keeping cleaner wrasses for a variety of reasons, not the least of which is that they generally fail to adapt to captive fare...Sounds like yours has beaten the odds in the short run!>
The main tank is going through a "fallow" now because of a marine velvet outbreak. All fish are taken out & housed in various quarantine tanks, including the small cleaner wrasse. It stays with my majestic angel. I am also treating Copper on all quarantine tanks which house fish, except this tank which houses the Cleaner & the Majestic. Its because I am not sure if the cleaner wrasse can tolerate CU treatment or not? I intend to use 2/3 dosage anyway as I have to consider the angel too. Please advise me if Cleaner Wrasse can tolerate Copper treatment well?
<I'd avoid copper with this fish. If the fish is, indeed sick, a Formalin-based remedy is a safer bet, IMO. Even then, I urge you to be careful...If the fish is not displaying signs of the illness, I would not use medication at this point. Just observe carefully.>
By the way: what is IMO, which is frequently quoted by you people?
<"In My Opinion"...FYI: "For Your Information", HTH: "Hope This Helps"...There are many others, of course- but these are common ones you see here!>
I have to confess, too, that I bought this wrasse before reading your article on the poor survival record of this type of fish. More so that I intend to provide good for this small fellow as it is so valuable & I like to see it live for long. Your help is much appreciated. Best regards.
<If this fish has to be in captivity, I'm glad that it has a dedicated owner like yourself! Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

Sight Impairment on a Wrasse
I have a blind Paddlefin Wrasse. <Sorry to hear that...Ryan with you today> He was in the QT tank when we had a  couple
fish pop up with ICH spots, so he was in there and we added copper, which  I
was assured would be fine.  We only left him in there with the other fish  and
copper a couple weeks and moved him to the main tank, right after being put  
in the main tank he got pop-eye on one side. <Likely from poor water quality in QT, sorry to say.> I put him in a different QT  
tank I'd borrowed from a friend and gave him Erythromycin (sp) and it cleared  
up the pop-eye within a week. <Good.> But after we put him in the main tank this  time
it was apparent that he couldn't see.  He gets really excited about  food
being placed in the tank, gets really agitated and swims all over, but he  can
never seem to find it, he pecks at the sand and then spits it out. <How sad!>  We've
tried a variety of foods and a feeding stick but he wants nothing to do  with
that.  So it's like he can smell the food but can't make it to the  table, poor
guy.  Any advice on how to feed a blind fish? <Possibly a clip of sorts...In a place that he can find everyday.  A feeding tube (oral syringe with 1/4 inch airline tubing) could shoot food right in front of his mouth.>  I have  tried to enter "feeding
blind fish" in your search but I get a whole page of  questions and never can
find the right one?  Sorry to hassle you! <No worries!> I  am getting concerned for the
little guy.  I think he's happy but he doesn't  swim constantly like he did, he
swims a lot then lays against the glass as if  resting then takes off.  <Doesn't sound good...Give him time, try and feed him as much as possible.>
     While I have you here I'd like to pester you with  another question.  A
year ago while snorkeling off Kauai we saw a gorgeous  wrasse, the Thalassoma
trilobatum, it was orange with blue, green, and yellow  ladder lines down the
side.  I have been searching for a year for one. I  have called all over
Hawaii even.  Marine Center got my hopes up with a  Christmas Wrasse they had, but
they say that they are green and purple, that  they just look orange in the
ocean.  From their description they gave me  sounded like a Klunzinger's Wrasse
I had, they told me they were the same  colors.  Can you tell me what the name
of the fish we saw down in Hawaii  was and if you've ever seen them in the
aquarium trade?  <You may have seen a supermale variant of the Klunzinger's Wrasse.  Supermale colors are astounding- But harder to keep vibrant in captivity.  The marine center would likely be your best bet for finding one, at least this time of year.  See ya! Ryan>
      Thanks again so very much for all your  help!

Wrasse looking bad.
Dear WetWeb crew,
<< Blundell here. >>
Was hoping you could help me with a bit of a mystery.  Many months back, I ordered a large Coris gaimard from Jeff's Exotic Fish (great e-supplier, btw).  Well, it arrived and it was beautiful.  A little over 6" female! << Seen lots of those fish recently, they are great. >> Did very, very well for several months.  Then in June, I had to go away for a few days and left my fish in the care of a very concerned and capable neighbor. << But is still worried you didn't it?  Don't worry it is a concern to all of us. >> When I returned, my Coris was on the bottom of the tank, curled up into a C shape.  When she did swim at all, it was in tight, looping spirals, usually upside down. << Bad nutrition or bad water quality. >> Seemed to me to be an internal infection of some sort, so I removed her to my hospital tank and treated her with Maracyn (and Melafix, just for the scraping). << Can't hurt, sounds like a good idea. >> For almost two weeks she continued this behavior, and each morning I would check on her expecting her to be dead.  Then, after being away for a day or so, I returned to find her upright and healthy, though very thin and sluggish.  She greedily took food, and after several days of recoup time I returned her to the display (which is 150 gallons--the hospital tank she was in was only a 20 gallon).  She is still alive and doing reasonably well, but rather than fattening up the way I would expect, she simply grows thinner. << Not sure what you are using for food, but I would recommend some variety and possibly live foods. >> I know there is competition for food in the tank, but I feed both ends of the tank several times a day, and I watch her eat what I would think to be an adequate amount of food.  I feed enriched brine, Mysis, bloodworms, diced tiger shrimp << Really??? >>, angel formula (mainly for my angels!), leafy greens, and two good quality flakes--one vegetable and one meaty.
<< Well that is great. >>
Specs:
150 gallon with good water quality: 0 Ammonia and Nitrites, Nitrates run high (70-90) because of the large, sloppy eaters.  I keep them in hyposalinity (1.011) to cut down on crypts, which have always plagued my angels.
Occupants:
Large Volitans Lion (8")
Large Maculosus Angel (7", was 1" when I got it!)
Med Queen Angel (5")
Small Chain Link Moray (10")
Large Foxface (7")
Med Sailfin Tang (3")
Med Arothron manilensis (4")
Med Canthigaster janthinoptera (2")
Those nine fish have been the stable population of the tank for months (most for many years).
Any suggestions?  Is the Coris simply overwhelmed by his tankmates? << I don't think so. >> Possible internal parasite?  Is the low salinity an issue? << Well that is way low.  I would look into that. >> Any help fattening up this beautiful fish would be appreciated. << Yeah the salinity seems super low.  Also, I wonder if having those aggressive fish is causing short term, quick to happen, ammonia spikes. >> Thanks again for all your great work.
Jim Jensen
<<  Blundell  >>

Sick Wrasse

<Hi, MikeD here>
I have a 4" Christmas wrasse (Halichoeres ornatissimus) that has one
pectoral fin tattered and the gill on that side is slightly swollen.<ouch>
Looking this up, I found the most likely problem was a bacterial
infection and to use a broad-spectrum antibiotic, such as Erythromycin
or Neomycin. Does this sound right?<With the former, using Maracyn II for gram negative bacteria in conjunction with the Erythromycin is often wise and has worked well for me. The bad part is that these are expensive meds, to the point I've been rethinking the wisdom myself, having seen a couple of other highly touted broad spectrum antibiotics mentioned on a regular basis.>
I placed the wrasse in my 10G QT (filled with main tank water, several
PVC tubes to hide in, a cycled AQ mini, heater, and an airstone) this
morning. My main tank had the following parameters this morning:
ammonia: 0
nitrIte: 0
nitrAte: <10ppm
ph: 8.0
temp: 80F
copper: 0
The "main" tank is a 60Gal with CPR backpack and magnum 350 canister and
a couple of powerheads. This tank is about 6 months old and was cycled
using damsels (this is the last time I use fish to cycle... ever! I use crustaceans as a personal preference, and were I to go with fish, would ALWAYS suggest Mollies over Damsels!>) and I
change about 10%-20% of the water every day (or at least every other
day).
When her right pectoral fin first started to deteriorate (two weeks
ago), I looked into the aragonite gravel being too course since this
wrasse burrows at night.<Probably correct> (I still think this might have been the
initial cause of some of the damage.) I changed out the sharp aragonite
gravel for some nice, round coral sand on Monday. (That was a pain to
do without stressing my fish. I rinsed the sand with dechlorinated water
and tank water, then moved the wrasse and my gobies into a large
breeding net while the change occurred. The fish all acted normally
after I was done.) Her fin has not gotten better, but seemed to not get
worse until this morning when her gill looked swollen and the fin was
"clamped" and more tattered.<This may have been because of the upset to the entire biofilter in the substrate portion itself, since this fish spends 1/2 of each day directly in it>
Her roommates are three small blue-green Chromis, a small maroon
clownfish, and two neon gobies. The neon gobies have been spending a lot
of time "cleaning" the wrasse, but this morning her gill started to look
swollen so I set up my spare QT tank. I've never seen any real
aggression between fish although the Chromis like to chase one another.
(A note on the neon gobies, they made it out of QT and into the main
tank a week ago, which is after this all started.)
My questions are:
I bought some Maracyn, which is a Erythromycin medication. Does an
antibiotic sound like the right course of treatment? Should I also set
up a small Tupperware bucket of sand from the main tank for her to sleep
in or should I leave the tank with a bare bottom? I worry that without
sand to sleep in, she'll stress out.<Tough call. sometimes the stress can be severe enough to outweigh other benefits> However, the sand might slow the
healing process by rubbing on the damaged fin. Advice would be most
welcome!<I'd probably go with the antibiotics myself and give the fish a sand bottom, likely inert silica sand in the treatment tank.>
Thanks! Puffergeek in San Diego

Wrasse Unhinged! (Damaged Mouth On Wrasse) 7/29/04
Dear WetWeb people,
<Scott F. your WetWeb Person today!>
I have a question concerning a 2 1/2 inch Yellow Coris Wrasse I have had for a little over two weeks in a 10 gal.QT tank.
<Good work on the quarantine procedure!>
The water quality is good ( ph 8.3 nit. 0) and the tank was treated with chelated copper sulfate before the little guy was introduced. He looked quite healthy for a week and then started showing signs of swelling and discoloration just under his eyes and he also started hiding and acting sluggish. I treated the tank with an antibiotic called Maracyn Plus because it looked to me like a bacterial infection.
<A good product, as long as directions are followed, and as long as it is applicable to the illness that you're treating!>
I also put a container of sand from my main tank in the qt because I read that these wrasses like to sleep in the sand.
<They do, and that's a nice touch>
After several days, the wrasse looked more active etc., but his mouth has been continually open since then and he doesn't seem to be able to shut it.
<Hmm...>
He just sort of sucks up the Mysis shrimp that I have been feeding him.
<Well, thank goodness that he's eating...always a good sign>
I read on your website a question similar to mine and you answered that it was normal for a wrasse to swim with it's mouth open. Is it also normal for them not shut it when feeding?
<No-it's not normal for the fish to have it's mouth open continuously>
His mouth wasn't always open when I first brought him home. After the wrasses qt time is up, if he is active but his mouth is still open is it ok to introduce him to the 55 gal. main tank with the three green Chromis damsel fish that inhabit it? Thank you for your time, Christy
<Well, Christy, I'd hold of on introducing the fish into the display until you've gotten a handle as to what this might be. Perhaps it's an injury that may heal itself. On the other hand, if the inability of the fish to close its mouth is because of some kind of internal infection in the mouth-well, that's another thing altogether. Keep making sure that the fish eats, and give him an extra week or two in quarantine, just to make sure that he's otherwise okay. If this proves to be a "physical challenge" for the fish that it seems to be able to deal with, then feel free to introduce this guy into the tank. Let's hope for the best! Regards, Scott F.>
 






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