Making Brackish Water   1/26/06
Good Evening!!
<<Good Evening to you too.>>
Is it alright to use the same salt used in saltwater tanks, for brackish water tanks?  
<<Not only is it alright, but it's the only way to make brackish water.  Lisa.>>

Specific gravity for a Brackish Tank 4/06/05
<Pufferpunk again>
That is an approx for a 20 Gallon tank - correct?? lol just making sure
<I use a rough estimate of a cup of marine salt/5gallons, to raise the SG .005. You'll have to do some math & be sure to check with a hydrometer a couple of hours after mixing into tank. Premix into a bucket 1st, to dissolve. ~PP> 

Brackish system filtration 2
Michael:  <That's me! I think...>
The Emperor 400 with the two bio-wheels is my only filter. <Should be ample for a 30 gallon brackish aquarium>
It has been about one week since the ammonia spiked. The nitrIte and nitrAte spiked around the same time.  The ammonia then dropped below .25ppm and has remained there.  <Probably because the tank still has some nitrifying bacteria> The nitrAtes have remained below 10ppm except for one day late last week when it spike to 80ppm but it fell back below 10ppm within 24 hours. The nitrItes, however, have remained a constant immeasurable high.
At the time I added the Puffers, I didn't realize that brackish water had it's own special brand of bacteria.  <Depends on the salinity> Because of this, I was expecting the cycle to remain stable as it had done in the past when I shuffled freshwater occupants to different tanks -- as in removing 7" worth fish from a tank and then adding 7" worth of different fish into the tank.  <However, you waited a month to do this - more than ample time for most of the bacteria to starve> I know better now. I have read that making frequent large water changes to save fish will not harm the biological filter. Is this not true?  <Removing wastes before the bacteria have a chance to process them is essentially starving them, thus interrupting the cycle> As far as lowering the salinity goes, I was told to do so for the Bio-Spira to work. I thought this would be okay since it was both advised and was such a small amount, only 002.  <To allow the freshwater bio-Spira to survive, lowering the salinity might have been necessary. However, it will still stress the inhabitants and the current population of nitrifying bacteria>
Yes, it is nitrItes not nitrAtes.  <Odd!> I WISH it were the other way around. <So do I...> It was the nitrItes that soared when I added the Bio-Spira.  <Bio-Spira might only introduce the bacterial strains that convert ammonia to nitrITes. I will have to contact Marineland regarding this issue> There is no possibility of anything non-microscopic decaying in the tank.  I feed krill to my Puffers with tweezers and bloodworms with a turkey baster to ensure little waste and I don't overfeed. I make sure to net anything they miss (which is always nothing). All four puffers are accounted for. My only plants are the four Marimo Balls and they are in excellent condition. There have only been two Gobies and they were both moved to a temporary tank. That tank, by the way, is having the exact same problem as the Puffer tank. There is no undergravel filter. The only possible dead organic matter is a little algae on the fake driftwood.
Yes, the nitrite spike is still occurring. Unfortunately, I can't move my Puffers to a different tank as I only have one other and it is having the same problem. I have not been cleaning the gravel or changing the filter media for the last two weeks.  I have been trying to give the bacteria a little peace. When I change out the water and the water level get to low for the filter to continue running, I turn it off and float the bio-wheels in the tank until I start refilling the tank with water. During cleaning and water changes is the only time anything connected to my tank is off.
Okay. Let me see if I understand what you want me to do. I am not make anymore water changes at all.  <In order for your tank to cycle correctly, you will need to not interrupt the process> No matter how high the toxins get. Won't I end up losing my Puffers before the tank works its cycling problem out?  <Quite likely - pufferfish should not be subjected to the stress of a cycle.  If I were you, I would see if a friend or a LFS will hold them for you.  If not, move them to the other tank, and treat that tank with Amquel+ daily and use a Poly-Filter to keep down the ammonia\nitrite levels.  Fishless cycle your 30 gallon or put in a couple of feeder fish, and allow the cycle to run it's course.  It should cycle faster than ordinary due to the bacteria introduced by the bio Spira.  Monitor the water levels, and when you see 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites and a nitrate spike, the tank is cycled.  Do a 25% water change and introduce your puffers then>   What if I make smaller water changes?  <Water changes of any type will affect / delay a successful cycle> I am also to clean my filter cartridges daily.  <Daily really isn't necessary during a cycle, you don't want to remove most of the waste and starve the bacteria> I thought the fibrous surface of the cartridges was a good place for the bacteria to develop.  <It is, but it's purpose in an aquarium is mechanical filtration, and it should strictly be treated it as such>  Don't worry about the bio-wheels, I don't clean those.  <Good>
Please let me know if I understand your suggestions correctly and thanks for the help!  <No problems, good luck, and next time cycle your tank first!  M. Maddox>

New heater
Hi,
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
I just got a new heater today for my 55 gallon brackish system.  It is submersible, and the old one was not.  I found a good place for it behind a log in the back of the tank, but then I had second thoughts about it.  
<Sounds ok to me>
I have a puffer who seems to be either very sensitive to changes in light, or is just very groggy when he wakes in the morning.  He is very awkward, bumping into everything and resting on the logs and  rocks for about 5-10 minutes every morning.  
<Common behaviour>
I have tried very gradual light changes, but it doesn't seem to help.  I am worried that he will clumsily bump into the heater or rest on it.  If he does, is it possible that he could burn himself?  
<I don't think so, as long as there is a log between the heater & the fish.>  
Is the best place for this heater on the glass where the old one was, out of the way, even though it is submersible?  
<I'd be more concerned about a hot spot being created by the heater being "enclosed" by the log.  No water will be circulating across the heater.  It may damage it (I'm not really sure), you might want to ask the manufacturer. There are also heater protectors made for this reason, if you were to mount it back on the glass.  Some puffers burn themselves by laying against it, or even between the heater & glass.>
Thanks very much for your advice, Dave
<Your very welcome--Pufferpunk>

Brackish sump question (10/11/03)
WWM Crew
<Hi! Ananda here tonight...>
I currently have a 37 and a 29 which are both brackish and I and planning on putting the fish together.
<Hopefully they're all compatible...>
I am ordering a 120 All Glass this week and was wondering if I should get it drilled for the extra $45 and go with a wet dry sump system.  
<I would.>
I would use canister systems as I have now (and get the tank not drilled) but I would like something with more water flow and easier access to the media, not to mention my Fluvals have broken several times.
<Yikes! Nasty stuff can build up in a canister filter when the power goes out, and then if the filter comes back on later, said nasty stuff can harm the fish in the tank -- it's a tale I've heard about a few times.>
I want to build a sump myself and was wondering where I can find good plans with pictures on how to do this. I was thinking of a 20 gallon tank with acrylic dividers, but I’m not sure where to begin.  
<More info here and the associated links: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/diytksfaqs.htm -- and there are probably several links to pages with pix or plans for sumps. Also check out http://www.thekrib.com for more do-it-yourself sump ideas.>
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks Jason
PS-The following link is something I have been looking at.  Is it sufficient?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2351772054&category=3212
<The design looks good to me -- though with a 120, you may want more volume than that one has (that's equivalent to a 15 gallon tank, and I usually hear 30-40% of display tank volume as being a good sump volume). Depending on the specific gravity you run your tank at, you might also experiment with a nitrate-exporting refugium. Look at marine refugia, and where they have live sand or live rock and Caulerpa or Chaetomorpha, substitute your planted tank substrate of choice and a Vallisneria species. Then again, if you run a tank with an s.g. above 1.015, you could probably try the Chaetomorpha. Do have fun with your new system! --Ananda>

Switching UGF/Powerhead set-up from Normal Flow to Reverse Flow
Hello WWM Crew!  
<Hi! Ananda here today with the brackish questions....>
I have a UGF and a supplemental HOTB-type power filter in my sixty-five gallon light-brackish tank.  I have two powerheads on the UGF uplift tubes.  I thought about setting up the UGF with reverse-flow when I first started, but for some forgotten reason went with normal flow.
The tank has been stable for the past month after cycling the month before.  It is now populated with two F8 puffers, one GSP, four mollies and two silver scats.  
<Watch out for those puffers...they may decide to snack on the mollies' fins.>
Tests indicate Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, pH 8.2, temp. 80 F., SG 1.004.  
<Sounds good for now... the scats and GSP (green-spotted puffer) will want more salt as they get older.>
Substrate is coarse gravel on bottom, medium-grade gravel on top of that, and a top layer of crushed coral.  Total depth of substrate is 3" in front sloping up to 4" in rear.
<This is a bit deep for an undergravel filter. If you ever need to tear it down a bit, I'd remove some of the coarse gravel on the bottom.>
I think switching the system to reverse-flow will improve the system by preventing UGF clogging and making gravel vacuuming easier, more productive.
<Actually, you're more likely to get clogging because your powerheads cannot circulate the water at nearly the same rate when they're in reverse-flow mode. That leads to dead spots in the gravel bed, A Bad Thing in an undergravel filter system.>
However, won't it cut down dramatically on H2O circulation?
<Yup.>
What effect would switching to reverse-flow have on the bio-filter? Would the tank re-cycle?  Or would the beneficial bacteria population remain practically unaffected? Or would it be a good thing, and why?
<The bacteria will still be there, so you shouldn't see another cycle.>
Thanks for your time!  65
<hah! I'd wondered if this was you... I didn't answer this one on the forums 'cause I don't have much personal experience with UGF systems. I consulted with Ronni on this one, since she's got experience with UGF filters, both regular and reverse flow. --Ananda>

Canister filter on a brackish tank...with live rock? (Java ferns, revisited)
Ananda,
Thanks so much for the quick advice.  
<No problem -- always happy to see someone else doing a brackish tank!>
I forgot a couple of things about my  brackish tank, though.  Do you think I could similarly try running it with only a canister filter, or is the salt going to complicate the water too much?
<I don't think the salt will have an effect on the canister filter; I've heard of people running them on saltwater systems without too much trouble...though they can build up some nitrates in those systems.>
And I was reading the WWM brackish section, which says you can try live rock
in brackish tanks.  Does this mean live rock from marine settings?
<Yeah, it does, but I wouldn't try it in anything but a high-brackish/near-marine tank...the critters that make it live rock are unlikely to survive anything below 1.015, if they make it that far.>
Thanks in advance.
Andy B
<You're welcome. Do check out our brackish forum on the WetWebFotos chat forums! --Ananda>

Re: wood for aquascaping
First of all let me say I am very impressed not only with your site ( boy am I getting an education).  
Second, thank you for tour incredibly quick reply to my last question about velvet.  It remains to be seen whether my fish (scat) will make it.  Without your advice the chances would have been zilch.  
My question:  
I need to provide more cover/structure for my fish to get out of each other's way (especially my Chromides).  I like the look of wood over rock.  However, the wood I am considering, labeled "Mopani wood", is indicated on the label to help soften the water.  My understanding from what I've gleaned from your articles & FAQ's is that brackish aquaria should be fairly hard water. ( I believe our local tap water is considered to be quite hard).
<I would test it for hardness>
"Wood" it be a mistake to use wood?
<I believe so. Look to types of rock (carbonate, Tufa...) that impart alkaline earth materials (calcium, magnesium...), alkalinity to the water>
Also, in an effort to increase pH slightly (was about 7.6 - trying to get to 8.0 or so) I have started using baking soda (I'm cheap).  However some of the commercially available products apparently use a variety of bicarbonate salts and claim this is superior.  Is there a problem with adding only the sodium bicarb?
<No problem other than it will only raise pH to about 7.8>
Thanks a bunch (still crossing my fingers on the scat - he doesn't look too well at the moment)
<Hang in there. Bob Fenner>
Andreas

Brackish 55
Hello, Dr. Bob
<Anthony Calfo in your service>
I'm writing you from Alberta, Canada where it is difficult to get any info on Brackish or Marine systems. My problem/question is regarding my 55 gallon brackish tank (Specific gravity ~1.010). I currently have 4 scats (2 silver, 1 green, 1 red tiger)(1.5 - 2 in), 1 spotted puffer (1in) and 2 Monos (1in) as you probably know they are all very messy creatures, and I will be adding more fish (bubble bee gobies, archers, more Monos..) 
<I have to say that you already have enough/too much fish for a 55 if you are going to be considerate of their adult sizes. Furthermore.. the smaller gobies will be eaten in time by any number of the aforementioned fishes>
They are raising the nitrates to very high levels in a matter of days, with very little to no excess food (frozen blood worms, frozen brine shrimp, algae tablets). 
<overfeeding doesn't always mean left over food. They may simply be eating and passing more food than they need (or in this case if they are larger... then there are already too many fish). Still... the nitrogen is the same in the end whether is passes through the fish or not>
The tank is fully cycled. I have a penguin 330 filter with BioWheels (330 GPH), and a quick filter (~170GPH). I've been researching different methods of filtration, in search or a better way to keep nitrates down, and the Miracle Mud is looking very good (except for the $$$). 
<I would favor water changes and better filtration by far over anything marketed as "miracle" anything>
I will eventually make this tank or another larger one full marine, due to the fact that the scats and Monos require full marine as adults, plus I would like to have corals. 
<which are not compatible with at least the scats>
What you recommend for a good filtration system that can handle brackish and marine? If you have any suggestions for this tank or a future marine tank it would be much appreciated? Thank you.
<the nitrates are going to continue to be a problem for many reasons... however, better filtration will be obtained from a wet/dry filter while the tank is brackish and from live rock and deep fine live sand once the tank goes marine. Best regards, Anthony>

Brackish Question
Dear Mr. Fenner,
I'd like to start by complimenting you on your book, "The Conscientious Aquarist". It is my favorite pertaining to marine systems. When I wanted to take the leap from fresh water to a marine system, your book came highly recommended as a starting point. I have had no major difficulty (yet) with my marine system, but over time I find myself rereading sections as I have questions.
<The joy and luxury of book-length manuscripts>
The question I have, pertains to my brackish tank. My tap water here in Phoenix has a pH of 7.8 and I add Jungle Laboratories Aquarium Salt to bring the salinity up to about 1.003, so that both my Spotted and Figure 8 Puffer fish and my Loaches will be able to coexist (when I get a larger fresh water tank I will transfer the loaches: a skunk and a yo-yo, to that tank). My problem is that when I add the salt, the pH jumps to 8.2.
<You might try simple sodium chloride, even table salt, but kosher, ice-cream salts will get you around the iodide added if that bothers you... and won't elevate pH>
I only recently decided to check the pH, because my Loaches were getting slow and I had run out of ideas as to why. This is where I learned that it was the salt that was bringing the pH up.
Should I switch to R.O./D.I. water or a mixture of R.O./D.I. and tap and add the aquarium salt? 
<If you'd like... but I would try the solution mentioned above... Your livestock need the mineral content that R.O and/or Deionization of the tap would remove>
I am concerned that the salt in such a low concentration wouldn't have enough of the minerals the fish need. 
<Ah! You are correct>
Or should I use the tap water and Instant Ocean? 
<A good choice... but will also elevate pH slightly>
I have experimented with putting a little Aquarium Pharmaceuticals' 7.0 buffer to bring the pH down to 7.8 and the Loaches are much happier, but I am concerned that without dumping a bunch of the buffer in, it will wear-off shortly and the pH will jump right back up and the fluctuations will irritate the fish even more (the puffers don't seem to care one way or another). 
<Again... you might have taught chemistry?>
Another possibility could be to use the tap water and Aquarium Salt as I have been doing and use some 7.8 buffer (if there is such a thing), but this is starting to get to be more of a cocktail than may be sensible.
<Agreed>
I have a cheap outlet for R.O./D.I. water which I use in the marine aquarium, so I usually have some on hand and I also have plenty of Instant Ocean around, and I buy the Aquarium Salt specifically for the brackish tank and my stepdaughter's goldfish. Knowing what I have around, would you have any suggestions for creating the best water for my brackish fish?
<The protocols you mention are worth investigating... I would likely just add a source of sodium chloride (maybe to a slightly higher spg of about 1.005, and leave it at that. Bob Fenner>
Thanks much,
Joe Scioscia

Cheap skimmer in brackish water.
Hi Bob,
I have never seen such a collection of information on skimmers in one place. Maybe you can answer a couple of questions for me.
<I'll try>
1. I am looking to build a marine tank in a couple of years but currently I have a tropical and brackish water tank. I have heard that protein skimmers can be used with fresh or salt water (use with full marine being the most efficient). 
<Yes, all so>
I have purchased a (simple) Sander protein skimmer, and have placed it in my brackish tank with the aim of learning the use and benefits of such. One of the items that struck was the fact that the protein skimmer works on the ability of the bubbles to hole their shape relevant to the amount of sal dissolved in the water, do you foresee me having an problems operating the skimmer with 10ppm or less(1.006SG) or using it with fresh water?
<Mmm, some... as you state, all-marine systems are easier to skim... and the simpler Sanders units (they make much larger, more sophisticated units) don't "foam much"... BTW, Sanders even has "Pond Foam Fractionators" that employ low partial pressure on the collectant side (a partial vacuum) to hasten collection of foam... and there are chemicals that can (I would not) be added to the system water to enhance collection...>
2. When I set up the skimmer the bubbles where adjusted to about an inch from the top of the spill for the cup, initially I set the bubbles to burst at the top (large bubbles) but found all I was getting was slightly yellow water. Do you have any tips re: low/no salt usage for aquaria?
<This is likely about all the good this unit can/will do you in the brackish application... still worthwhile...>
3. The skimmer has a wooden air stone, how often should I replace it and where may I get spares?
<Need to experiment a bit in your setting... but likely about once a month... try blowing through it (lung power!)... if it's hard for you, it's hard for your pump... replace it. Oh, and I'd order the replacement wood diffusers through an e-tailer that specializes/offers the Sanders line (Quality Marine is their major importer in the U.S.>
my set up is as follows:
Brackish tank 24x12x12.
UGF with powerhead.
specific gravity fluctuates between 1.000 and 1.010
tank has been cycled and is stable, 6 months old, setup with spare aged bio filter from tropical tank.
population:
2 x figure eight puffer fish 1.5 inches each.
2 x shark catfish 1 of 4 inch and one of 5 inch
2 x red Chromide 2.5 inch each
1 x gibbiceps pleco 6 inch
1 x Bristlenose pleco 3 inch
1 x bumble bee goby 1 inch
<Sounds nice. Am working on brackish writing (more on plants today) the next few weeks. Bob Fenner>
Alex