FAQs on Marine Disease
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I'm wondering about using either an ozone
generator or a UV system to help me keep on top of potential
disease. Which would you use and what are the
benefits of either. If I get an ozone generator do I
need a controller for it? Please help it's all so
James Wilson, Bath
This will have to be a greatly foreshortened explanation
to what could be a very long explanation James. Both types of
water filtration gear will indirectly help w/ reducing the
pathogenicity of disease causing organisms'¦ through
improvement in water quality. 'Some' well-engineered
ultraviolet sterilizers that are fitted with proper flow rates
are able to 'zap' small organisms (bacteria, fungi,
perhaps some Protozoans) sufficiently to kill them outright; all
do some good in producing ozone (O3) to a degree. There are
Ozonizers (ozone generators) that are actually ultraviolet lamps,
though most in our interest are corona discharge types.
Ozone generation by itself is a great sanitizer of water,
increasing dissolved oxygen, increasing RedOx, helping to resist
acidification and all its related downsides (unavailability of
alkalinity, alkaline earth materials'¦ i.e. Calcium,
Magnesium, Strontium'¦). This technology is such a boon
that there are NO commercial aquariums, marine livestock
wholesalers, or aquaculture facilities of size that I've been
to that don't employ it. In fact, given the choice of UV or
Ozone, not only would I take the latter, but the next choice
would be a desiccator (to dry out the air going into the
Ozonizer) than a UV in turn.
Rest assured, you are not alone in your confusion. The variation
in the utility of this gear, its appropriate application, and
attendant possible beneficial effects are subject to a myriad of
interpretation. Both will help in a few ways, but Ozone is my
greatly preferred (over UV) adjunct to an otherwise well-filtered
A controller for the Ozonizer is not really necessary'¦
IF the unit is sized about where you want it and 'oxidizable
materials' are about constant (not hard to do). Even small
(hundreds of milligrams of O3) ozonizers have adjustable dials
for output'¦ with simple measure; one can get close to
what the constant output should be.
I keep losing new additions to my marine tank
I have a 400L reef tank which has been running since June, live rock,
invertebrates, coral and fish.
I cycled my tank for 6 weeks before adding any live stock.
I do a weekly water change and my ammonia, nitrates etc are always zero,
pH spot on.
I run skimmer, chiller, bio balls and Rowa Phos in a bed filter. Led
lights and Vortech MP40W Es fans.
My problem is all my corals, invertebrates and the first fish I added to
the tank an Angel beauty,
Six line wrasse and Red hawk fish are great. But now every time I add
any new fish to the tank they die.
<Possibly killed by one of the inhabitants. The Hawk and Angel will not
accept there own genus. Six lines can be quite rambunctious.>
If there was a disease in the tank wouldn’t it kill my older fish too?
The new fish always are eating and seem happy then overnight they just
I don’t quarantine my new arrivals as I live in a unit and just don’t
have the space.
<This is a time bomb; QT tanks can be small.>
I am at a loss as to what is causing this.
<Stressed, sick, aggression... The list is long. Using a proper QT would
allow for observation and help determine the cause.
Re: I keep losing new additions to my marine tank 11/16/12
Thanks for getting back to me so soon regarding my problem, I will set
up a quarantine tank before I add any new additions.
<Wonderful, this will definitely help you in the long term.>
Just a little concerned as to how to go about this, will have to read up
on it more. I thought the quarantine tank had to be cycled like the
Otherwise how do I keep ammonia, nitrates etc under control.
<Water changes. Read more here on QT setup and use--