Ich and Powder Blue Tang
Hello Fishmasters!
Many thanks for all the great information, and excellent discussion forums. I
was hoping to get some personal help today if possible!
I have a 125 gallon aquarium with 100 pounds of LR and a few easy to keep
corals. I have a Blonde Naso Tang (5 inches), a powder blue tang, two clown
fish, two green Chromis, and one coral beauty. I have two Cascade 1200
canisters, a Aqua C Remora Pro Protein skimmer, and a 25 watt UV
sterilizer. Water parameters: ammonia: 0, Nitrite: 0, nitrate: undetectable
(Salifert), Calcium 450, SG 1.025. pH and alkalinity also excellent. I do a 12
Gallon water change every 10 days.
All of the fish looked healthy when I bought them and all of the ate well in the
store. I quarantined all the fish (two at a time) for an entire month before
introduction and everyone looked great and was eating well. (Can you tell that
I have been reading your website?)
Two weeks after introducing the Powder Blue into the main tank, I noticed a
several "grains of salt" on the body of the fish (Needless to say...my heart
sank). It was still swimming actively and eating well which was good.
<< Very common for these fish. >>
I moved it to the Q Tank, lowered the salinity to 1.020, maintained the temp at
80, and treated with formalin for 7 days. I performed 12 Gallon water changes
every other day. I then ran carbon, and I watched the fish for another 7
days. Everyone else in the main tank looked fine, and just before
re-introduction of the powder blue...I noticed several more cysts. I kept it in
the Q tank, treated it with formalin again, and re-lowered the salinity to
1.020.
I noticed three small "grains of salt" on the angel yesterday in the main tank
and they are gone today. All the rest of the fish in the main tank look
perfect.
The powder blue tang still looks great (eating/active), but I can not seem to
kick this infection. Is it time to try copper? Do I need to empty my main tank
and run it fallow? Do I have some kind of sub-clinical infection in my main
tank that should be treated or should I leave the main tank alone?
<< I'd either leave the tank alone, or better yet is to start adding garlic to
their food. I think you'll be very pleased. >>
My powder blue would appreciate any advice that you have!
Thanks!
Jason
<< Blundell >>
Sailfin Tang/HLLE
Hello,
<<And hello to you, JasonC at your service...>>
My Sailfin tang has developed a pretty serious case of HLLE. Most of its face is worn away, and his lateral line is worn away too. Is there any way to cure this. He has been living with this for a long time now and is doing fine. It is just ugly looking. I have vitamins, and iodine. I also have one of those metal rods that remove extra electricity from the tank. Is there any way to cure this?
<<HLLE is typically caused by nutritional deficiencies. What are you feeding? I'd begin here. Do also read through the HLLE faq on our site:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/hllefaqs.htm
Cheers, J -- >>
Re: HLLE
I feed frozen algae formulas, the algae sheets you put on a clip, Spirulina pellets, I also feed brine shrimp that is mixed with
Spirulina. I
soak the food in vitamins also. Thank you for your help!!!
<<Sounds pretty good except for the brine shrimp - less nutrition than potato chips, even with the vitamin enhancements. You might try substituting these with
Mysis shrimp. The algae are good, but you might want to try and get some live algal material in there as well. Perhaps more, or renewed live rock... these fish like to pick at the fauna on live rock all day long. Cheers, J -- >>
Naso Tang
Quick question. Today I noticed that my Naso tang was breathing really heavy and was not eating. The other fish look to be doing fine and so do the xenia, mushrooms, and buttons. Checked the water parameters and everything seems fine. I am running a skimmer in the sump and two power heads in the tank so they should be getting enough oxygen. Don't know what to do? Please give me some suggestions.
<the fish may be showing the early stages of a serious parasite infection that has started in the gills. Please consult our section on Wet Web Media on
quarantine tanks for preparedness. If this fish needs medication it will need to be done in a QT tank to be effective and to spare poisoning your biological filter and calcareous media. Best regards, Anthony>
A red spot in my Tang
Hi Bob Antoine and all the crew,,, I'm passing on this site!!
<Salute, my friend!>
The last night I was watching my 3" Yellow Tang (Zebrasoma F) & I discovered
a little red spot just in the middle of his body. This spot is around 1.5 mm and looks like blood at simple sight but if you look in a lateral view it is
more like little red hair (I don't know how to describe it better). I figure its a kind of fungus...
<likely not a fungus but still treated the same>
how can I proceed, fresh water baths with Methylene blue?
<exactly>
how long the bath will be?
<daily for 3-5 minutes... please read through our Wet Web Media archives and FAQs on the proper protocol for conducting the dips... perhaps do a
Google search from the index/home page to speed your search if not familiar with the site layout)>
how often?
<perhaps 5 in 7 days>
or could be a bit or hit from the two damsels (but I never see the damsels trying to hit him)?
My tank is: 200 ltrs, PH 8.3-8.5, SG 1.22-1.23, Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0,
Nitrate 2.5, temp. 26°-27° C , 30 ponds of live rock, 5-6 blue legged
hermits, 4 Turbo snails, and nothing else. I perform 10% water change
weekly.
<good water change schedule>
Please, help me, In your article about Zebrasoma F. you said that it is
"happily easily treated by common methods" really I hope so...
Thank you Carlos Díaz
<you already have a good idea my friend. And it is best to remove this fish
to a quarantine tank as well. Better and faster treatment (easier to catch
for dips) and full tank meds can be dosed in QT (never dose a main display tank with meds). Kindly, Anthony>
Re: a red spot in my Tang
Hi Antoine, Thanks for your always prompt answer...
<my pleasure>
I didn't have a QT tank, now I know I need it, but... Because the time to
proper set a new tank for this purpose
<actually a common misconception... no time needed. Use aged filter media, aged water, possibly a little bit of cured live rock and daily water changes for immediate tank set up. For future... always run a sponge filter in
your display sump and leave QT empty (this a cycling fish is not needed in residency)>
and for the sake of the Zebrasoma Life, can I administer him the fresh water baths and
return him to the main tank???
<I doubt that you can conduct the necessary daily dips with less stress. Trying to catch him
in a fully rockscaped tank will likely be far worse... plus the tomites in the display sand/gravel will just keep re-infecting him. IMO... a waste of time. QT is
almost always and only the solution.>
I am nervous that if I wait a little longer (the time that I will need to set up the qt time, the fish will be worst.
<daily water changes on a 10 or 20 gallon QT are quick and easy and quite necessary
anyway to "cure" parasites in any tank... display or QT>
Can the QT tank just be a 5 gallon tank with nothing else but a air pump and new salt water...?? performing daily water changes to avoid
ammonia and nitrites...??
<the 5 gallon is rather small... at least a 10 gallon would be nice. And some cured live rock or a sponge filter (soiled filter media in the meantime will
help) will be necessary. Plan on doing a 30-50% daily water change for the first week in a small tank. Test water quality to confirm/guide you>
Thank you Antoine for your response, Carlos
<again... my pleasure. Good luck, my friend>
Tangs/HLLE
I have a blue regal and a yellow eyed tang in two different aquariums, both have had HLLE for quite some time now. I have asked many different people on how to help clear this up and have gotten a variety of answers, most stating water quality, diet, live rock, electrical current in the water and vitamins.
<many theories yes... none definitive. Diet is at least contributory... electricity
is a weak argument. Live rock with lush macroalgae is clearly a help. Natural sunlight is perhaps the best solution of all>
I have tried just about everything I've been told to help clear them up. The blue regal has shown some improvement, however the yellow eyed has gotten much worse. (All of my other fish are in excellent health) They are both very healthy looking otherwise and are veracious eaters.
<what kind of diet?>
I saw on your Q & A page about the use of baby vitamins, iodide and vitamin prep s. I have never heard this, what dosage would you use for the baby vitamins? I have 90 and 70 gallon tank. As for the iodide and vitamin prep s, I'm not sure what they are, where they can be found or what dosage to use. Is there anything else besides this that I can do? I try to do the best I can for my pets and any advice will be greatly appreciated, Thanks, Georgia
<the best way to dose vitamin supplements is in a prepared recipe to be ingested (much better
than putting in the water). I like using the baby vitamins and Selcon (HUFA supplement... an aquarium product). Do use the
Google search tool on this site and beyond to discover fish food recipes that suit your fish load (mostly
herbivorous fishes). Making your own fish food is a great way to save money and offer high quality food to your fishes. Kindly>
Tang with Fin Rot?
Hi guys,
<whassssup?>
You have a great website!
<thank you... pass it along. The "great website" part... not the "thank you": that was just for you>
I have two questions for you. We have a 75 gallon tank with a yellow tang, tomato clown and a cleaner
wrasse. I think my yellow tang may have fin rot! I have found lots of information on your website on how to treat it, but I want to confirm
that is indeed what is wrong. His tail looks split in some areas, and in general it's more transparent than it used to be.
<eroding? could be fin rot if restricted to one or few fishes>
Same for his top fin. Does that sound like fin rot?
<possibly... but is the wrasses spending way too much time on him? Some will "clean" fishes raw>
I'm pretty sure he isn't being harassed by the clown fish. He pretty much ignores
him. Assuming it is fin rot, we put in some Melafix.
<such homeopathic remedies are weak at best. Some are snake oil... or tea oil :)>
We have seen minor improvement in his fins,
<natural healing... healthy fish>
and he is acting fine. However, our Alveopora, which has done wonderful for over a year now, doesn't seem to like the medicine (his
'flower pot tentacle' don't come out, or are only short stubs). I didn't think we had to do a quarantine for this type of medicine, but
would this be a better option?
<quarantine is necessary for all medications... especially in tanks with such invertebrates that filter feed and absorb nutrients every day through great volumes of now "medicated" water. Please do a large water change and add poly filters/carbon>
I'd appreciate a confirmation of our diagnosis and treatment!
<a picture would be helpful. Else, send the tang to QT with a Nitrofurazone/Furazolidone combo drug>
I really don't want to lose this guy, or even more so, the Alveopora!
Thanks, Amy
<best regards, Anthony>
White Spots on Tangs
Hi Bob,
<Steven Pro in this morning answering a few questions, before Bob, Anthony, and I head off to LA to visit saltwater fish wholesale facilities.>
Recently I added to my 60 gallon tank a blue tang and a Naso tang.
<Too small of a tank to house two tangs comfortably. There will be too much aggression between the Surgeonfish. Also, a 60 is way too small for a Naso, even if there were no other Tangs.>
I already had a yellow tang in there.
<Ugh, even worse to have three.>
It took a few days for these new fish to get accustomed to my tank. After about 8 days, they started feeding properly (brine shrimp, lettuce etc...)
<Neither of these two foods mentioned is appropriate for your fish. Do archive the site looking for recommendations, including Nori and Formula II.>
and few days ago I noticed white spots on my blue tang.
<Very typical with these fish. I strongly advise you to quarantine all new livestock for one month prior to introduction to your main tank.>
I tried to look again few days later it was gone, then it came back again. I saw the same thing on my yellow tang. When I turn on the light in the morning, I would see white spots all over the yellow tang and blue tang. When I come back at home in the afternoons, the yellow tang is clean but the blue tang would have some on it, but not as much.
<Typical pattern due to the lifecycle of the parasite, Cryptocaryon.>
I do have a cleaner shrimp in my tank and I see it cleaning them. Yesterday, I decided to give my blue tang a fresh water bath, since the white spot had increased on the body.
<I like freshwater dips. I would use them and quarantine at this point.>
I also put some copper in the fresh water. I dipped it for about 8-10 minutes and since I have returned it in the tank, it's been breathing heavy and I think I'm going to lose it. Anything I can do to help it survive?
<Many things can and could have been done. Please educate yourself using the vast resources of WWM regarding Marine Ich, Cryptocaryon, quarantine procedures, and even
compatibility issues.>
I have successfully done this procedure (fresh water bath) in the past many times.
<And it should be continued with other protocols.>
I cannot treat my tank with copper because I have live rock and some inverts in my tank. This morning I saw, again white spot on the yellow tang and the Naso tang. Few hours later I stopped by at home and again, I could not see the spots on both fish. Do the parasites get on them in the dark?
<They live, breed, and die in 24 hours. The fish are constantly reinfected with new parasites.>
I'm just confused again and I need your help to clean up this mess.
Thanks, Sam
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>
New Tangs with Ich
Hi Bob,
<Steven Pro this afternoon.>
I recently purchased a Naso Tang and a Gold Rim Tang and put them in my 180 gallon tank and to my
surprise they got along very well (the Naso Tang always try's to stay next to the Gold Rim Tang). Well about a week later I saw some ICK on them and waited to see if it would go away like it did with one of my damsels but after 3 days of the cleaner shrimp picking at it, the ick was still there so I pulled them out and gave them a 20 second fresh water DIP as recommended by the
LFS.
<Terrible advise. Twenty seconds was a waste of time. Two minutes is the minimum for it to be
effective.>
I did not dip them any longer since they were extremely afraid specially the Naso which even released his waste after being in the fresh water for 10 seconds.
<Does not sound like behavior I would worry about. A FW dip is typically more stressful for the owners
than the fish. Any fish that can be dipped and dies because of the dip, was not going to live anyway.>
and put them in a 20 gallon QT tank with CopperSafe. Both fish have been in the QT tank with CopperSafe for a day and a half and both are eating but yet the ick is still there. My question is should I give them another fresh water dip and how long should the FS dip last or should I just let the CopperSafe do it's work ?
<A day and a half is awfully short. Patience is required in any treatment protocol. You already started the copper. It would not be my first choice, but you might as well finish the treatment.>
One more question I have a Coral Banded shrimp which has grown to about 3 inches with 6 inch whiskers and I've caught him several times trying to eat my Cleaner Shrimp. Do you think my cleaner shrimp is in danger?
<Yes>
I thought they could get along in a 180 gallon tank, should I be worried and remove my Coral Banded shrimp ?
<One or the other.>
Thanks.
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>
Yellow eyed tang
I have a yellow eye tang been in the tank for a few months. recently it has
gotten to look like it cant shut its mouth.
<A very bad sign, development... Often, a "bump" or rubbing on a bag in transit will result in microbial infection, loss of feeding, vigor... death. Best to react ASAP>
It looks like his mouth is peeling. any ideas? It may also help to know that it wasn't until recently
that I found out you are supposed to feed them seaweed. Could these two things be linked?
<Yes, likely>
In the tank are 5 damsels a wassy or rassy however you want to pronounce it a clown (orange and white) 6 black and white fish my wife
picked up 3 hermit crabs 3 anemone 4 featherdusters about 20 lbs of rock and a walking pin cushion. Okay laugh I don't know the names of all these fish.
Its a 30 gal tank with proper filtration unit (recommended by the fish shop)
and a 50/50 bulb. please help. Mike
<Yikes... this is a lot of fish in such a small tank... the Damsels in particular are often quite territorial (depending to a large degree on species). Please use the Google search tool at the bottom of our homepage: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ with the names of your fishes, "tang health"... to learn what you should know as a keeper of this life. Bob Fenner>
Blue Tang With HHLS/HLLE
My wife has sent you several questions in the past and indicated that you have
been most helpful. We are having a problem with our Blue Tang. (other than the
typical paranoid way they behave in general!!) We noticed today that our fish
has two spots on the same side of the body next to the eye, and about the same
size as the eye (each spot) where the color seems to be very light. It almost
looks like someone took an eraser to him. Also, on the lateral line on both
sides there is a faint line that I have not noticed in the past. It looks like
someone pulled a thread out of a piece of cloth. Very thin, but noticeable.
Our local fish supplier indicated some type of lateral line problem that could
be caused by leaking electricity? into the water? Never heard of this before.
Also as possible lack of vitamin C. The spots by the eyes he indicates are most
likely the same problem. Have any ideas? He looks better tonight than he did
earlier today.
<Take a look at the fish at this link to see if it looks similar
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/hlle.htm If so, go to the FAQ on HLLE, link at top of
page, for advise and instructions on effecting a remedy.>
Thanks in advance for your help...
Regards, Wade Sorensen, Phoenix, AZ
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>
Re: Tang
I have a tang that is breathing very heavy and noticed that around his gill
are it is white not spots just white any idea or suggestions on what it is and
how to treat it. Also when I'm near the tank he comes up to the glass and looks
as though he is striking the glass with his to spikes on his tail is this
normal.
<For narrowing the symptoms and treatments:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/MarInd3of6.htm, Best regards>
The Parasites Won...
Robert or Jason,
<<JasonC here>>
Well all of my fish died of what appears to be velvet except my big, fat blue
hippo.
<<oh, I am sorry to hear this.>>
He is actually doing well.
<<some good news!>>
He eats lots of medicated flakes and thoroughly
utilizes my 2 cleaner shrimps. When I FW dipped all the ones that died these
strange things came off them. They looked like white shrimpy looking things with
two long antennae like horns coming out of one end. Do you have any idea what
these were?
<<I don't know, but the parasites that cause Ick and Marine
Velvet cannot be seen without the aid of a microscope so we can scratch those
two off the list.>>
None of these came off my Alive Hippo thank goodness),
but I did get a few small white things with two black dots like eyes) off him.
Have no idea what these were either. They looked very similar to Mysis shrimp,
only smaller.
<<same thing, doubt it was something severe, but better off
the tang than on, I suppose.>>
Can a Tang die from sadness?
<<I
don't think so.>>
He is very sad that he is all alone.
<<he's not,
he's got two cleaner shrimp waiting on him hand and foot, uh... fin.>>
He
is a very SHY fish and only comes out to eat unless other fish are in the tank,
which none are.
<<probably just a little bugged out as to where everyone
just went. Will get over it.>>
How long must we wait to get him any
friends?
<<I would wait a week or two perhaps more to make sure that
nothing crops back up.>>
And will he get a long with a smaller Achilles
tang?
<<probably not - it's best to keep one tang to a tank with 50
gallons.>> Which is the best tang to get to befriend a Blue Hippo?
<<none at this juncture.>>
We also wanted to get either another pair
of True perculas or Maroon clowns, will tangs get a long with these?
<<sure, but think about the perculas, maroons have a reputation for being
a little mean.>>
Should we get all new arrivals in one day, or break it up
and if so, which should we get last?
<<I'm a big fan of adding only one
thing at a time, and then waiting a month or so before the next add. You will be
quarantining these fish before you add them to your main tank, yes?>>
How
many fish can we have in a 50 gal? Is 6 too many?
<<not if they are all
very small and will stay small>>
Thanks in advance for your wonderful
advice.
<<You are quite welcome. Cheers, J -- >>
Now What Do We put in Next?
Thank You for your quick response? I think we need a tang of some sort. We used
to have two perculas, two damsels and one Hippo same hippo we have now) and he
would NOT come out at all. We had him for months before we saw him. He would
even hide while he ate. Then we got a gold rim tang and he hippo) came out and
swam all over. He only hid at bed time. Then all but hippo and male Percula
died. Again, Hippo would not come out. We ended up getting another Goldrim
(about 2 months ago)
hippo came out. It appears as if he needs the security of another surgeon fish
in there.
<<I would respectfully disagree with this assessment.>>
Is
their any other explanation for his behavior?
<<not really, probably just
feels more gregarious when there are other fish around or that something is
wrong when it's the only one in the tank.>> Also, my hubby REALLY wants an
achilles, can these two tangs get along? He loves gold rims, but we have not had
good luck keeping them
alive.
<<I would recommend that you read up some more on tangs. I know
these are very beautiful fish but they are best kept one to a system:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/GoldRimSs.htm
>>
Also, we don't have quarantine tank, but what kind of Dip can we do to get rid
of all parasites before putting any new arrivals in tank?
<<A pH adjusted,
freshwater dip I suppose, but it you're going to throw down money on expensive
fish - please, please think about a quarantine system - no sense in flushing
your money. >>
Just FW or mixed with meds? <<Read up: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dips_baths.htm
>>
Jason, thanks again. Your info is greatly appreciated and helpful!!!!
<<Thank you very much for saying so. Cheers, J -- >>
Miscellaneous (Tangs, Ich)
Hi Bob, or Steven, or Anthony,
<Anthony Calfo in your service>
I hope everyone is doing great. I have a few questions. First, are Tangs more susceptible to ich than other fish?
<many do seem to be (mostly from temperature drops like when new/transported and from improper cooler water changes>
The reason I ask is that I have a 75 gallon tank with a flame angel, a Flamehawk, a purple firefish, and a
newly added juvenile sailfin tang ( I had previously kept the sailfin in a 30 gal for the last six months but as you can imagine he got too large for
this tank), some snails, hermit crabs and a cleaner shrimp, 45lbs live rock. Within a week of adding the sailfin very small white specks (about
5-10 at this point) appeared on his body which I attribute to ich.
<quite possibly... and is this tank much cooler (more than 3 degrees?>
None of the other fish show any symptoms whatsoever though the angel and
Flamehawk
will allow the cleaner shrimp to groom them. Before I had the sailfin in there I had a purple tang which also displayed the signs of ich which is
why I ask my question. I gave the purple a pH balanced Methylene blue fresh water dip for 10 minutes and quarantined him for three weeks before
sending him back to the LFS (I too like one of your other daily questions tried to put the sailfin and purple together. Big Mistake! and if the
other reader is reading this I can assure him/her as you did that it will never work). Do you think I should quarantine the sailfin or do you think
the cleaner shrimp will take care of it?
<please do QT the fish... never rely on cleaner fish/shrimp to effect a cure once an infection sets in>
Unfortunately, I haven't seen the tang go to the cleaner shrimp. Do you think the tang will utilize his
services?
<hard to say, but again... don't count on it>
Finally, The purple firefish is also having problems. He won't or can't
close his mouth. It looks like lockjaw or something. Have you ever heard of this?
<yes... commonly a dietary deficiency (usually a precursor to death when it reaches this stage. Has the
firefish been allowed to eat a narrow diet or one of whole prey items only (brine shrimp and the like)?>
Is there something I can do? He seems to be eating just fine though a little awkwardly.
<Selcon and Vitachem (they are different) in food ASAP>
Thanks, Jeff
<quite welcome, my friend. Anthony>
Big spot won't go away
Dear Bob,
Thanks for all your advice lately. This is a problem that just won't go away.
<The advice?>
Our tang has a white spot (ick?) on the top of his back, just under the
dorsal fin that has been there for several months.
<Not ich... maybe an "internal mark" of some sort... perhaps a lone trematode,
cestode...>
He had a few white spot outbreaks after introduction (treated with increased temp and
reduced salinity) but has been stable for several months. Should we be concerned? Is there any way we can get rid of it?
<Only you can answer the former, not easily to the latter... If you had occasion to have the fish netted, you could try "teasing" the spot out with a pin, other sharp implement... I'd leave it as is>
It looks like a large grain of sand. I can't tell if it's growing but it's pronounced.
We have 2 cleaner shrimps but they seem to have trouble reaching the
area since he brushes them off soon after they jump on to clean. They
can't seem to get past the stomach area. I was thinking of giving him
some kind of dip. I wish I could just brush the thing off. He doesn't
seem particularly bothered by it but I worry if it's a parasite then it
could be sapping nutrients from him.
<All living things (yes, including humans) have these sorts of "hitchhikers"... some are outright parasites, that in number, placement, metabolism may be detrimental... others are more or less "space" parasites of little trouble... some are benign to beneficial to some extent, ways... Bob Fenner>
Thanks, Allyson
Re: fish health appearance
Thanks for the info on a the gray angel but for my clown tang how do you know he is well
fed?
<Look at the fish "head on"... it should appear convex, rounded outward on the sides... you don't want a skinny tang... especially one that is thin in the head region. Bob Fenner>
Miguel
Re: fish health appearance
It's really hard to tell for my clown tang? Are you saying the body should be larger then the head?
<Yes, wider in profile>
If that is the case, my fish don't have that . I see no cones on the fish.
I can tell when his stomach is empty. That mask of the fish is quite large
compared to the rest of the body!
<Please read through the Acanthurid fish sections where I keep sending you: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tangs,.htm
and the linked files beyond... there are examples and pictures of well-fleshed, and not high/low index of fitness tangs there>
I feed them 3 times a day. A salad thing for tangs and flakes. What is a good food that gets them
fatter ?
<READ. Bob Fenner>
When I first got the clown tang, it was hard to feed but not now. I just want him to be
healthy. Thanks, Miguel
Compatibility?
Mr. Fenner,
<<JasonC here, filling in while Bob is out diving.>>
I have been reading a lot on your site about Tangs and good ones vs. bad. We lost all our fish recently except our large Hippo. He seems to be doing great. Eats
a lot, isn't really scratching anymore and only bugs the cleaner shrimps occasionally. Our stock all died from Velvet mixed with some very odd looking shrimpy like bugs on them (they came
off during FW dip). My question is how long do we need to wait before adding any new
fish( we will not be quarantining, but will follow your dipping directions and maybe put fish in a 5 gallon medicated bucket for a few hours to make sure no parasites get in tank.)
<<I would wait from two weeks to a month, just to make sure the coast is clear.>>
We live in a one bedroom apartment right now and literally have NO room for quarantine tank. Let alone our
50 gal. What are the best fish to get to befriend our lonely Hippo Tang?
<<How about a neon goby? Would help keep the hippo clean...>>
We want a pair of Perculas (true) and an achilles tang, but your site says these are one of the bad tangs. Is there a tang better suited for our Hippo? <<I would think that two tangs of any type wouldn't work well in your tank.>>
And how bad is the achilles?
<<Bad enough to kill other fish it doesn't like.>>
We are in the process of buying a house and will be upgrading to a 100 gal when we move. But in the meantime how many fish can go in our 50 gal and again, which are best for our lonely fellow? When can we get these new fish?
<<If the move is in the near future, I would implore you to wait until you can build a quarantine system and then start working with some of these more difficult and touchy fish. Quarantine is so, so, so important, I can't really endorse not using it... it just makes such a different that short of two weeks in a bucket, you're not going to be able to approximate it. Dips will help, but you could as easily have your whole set of problems back without a more strict quarantine.>>
Thanks again for all your help!!!!
<<You are welcome. Cheers, J -- >>
Tang breathing on one side
Bob,
Hi its me again. Anyhow, my Dussumieri Tang has been in my 50 gal. quarantine tank for 4 weeks now. Everything looks good, his color, feeding. But
there's one thing funny. How come he's breathing from only one side of his gills? The other side is barely moving. Looks almost like its welded shut. Two days ago I gave him a freshwater /
Methylene blue dip. Just for safety measures. Can you give me your personal opinion why this is happening to him. Thanks
<Maybe nothing. Sometimes fishes do just seem to use one side/gills. Bob Fenner>
Linstun Lee
Re: tang problem
<< howdy, Jason C here impersonating Bob Fenner to practice for his upcoming dive trip >>
Hey there! I wrote not too long to you about my yellow tang, who seems to have some sort of red blotchiness on his skin. I read in a book called
"natural reef aquariums' that some tangs exhibit redness on the sides and
fins when there is an accumulation of protein matter in a tank, especially in
the absence of protein skimming. My water is always sparkling and my quality is good, so
I've put off the purchase of a skimmer though I am considering purchasing one now.
<< don't put off that skimmer purchase for too long. I'm a huge skimmer fanatic, and Bob himself has issued this challenge - he will purchase your skimmer for you IF - if you drink the skimmer effluent.
Sounds like a good deal, but it's not - efficient skimmers pull out amazing amounts of stuff you can't see, but your fish are living in. You will find that this one thing goes the farthest to high quality water. >>
I've performed two water changes and the tang, his yellow very pale, still shows what looks like red blotches on his sides and
the base of his fins. I've tried feeding him broccoli (which he wont eat), spinach, romaine, omega flake foods and formula 2 frozen algae cubes. The
redness seems to disappear for a few days and then returns. otherwise the
fish swims fine, doesn't appear distressed at all. I've considered HLLE, but
there doesn't appear to be any "erosion". Please save my tang!
<< I'd bail on the human foods - the broccoli, romaine, spinach - they put other things into your tang/tank that aren't going to help here. Do try to get
a hold of some Nori or other dried sea weed product - an Asian grocery store will certainly have this. Also check your LFS for a fishy-vitamin like Selcon/Zoecon and start adding that to the foods you are offering. Could be your problem here is all diet and environment related. Do try to think about that skimmer. Cheers - J >>
RE: Fw: Tang gut microfauna
Mr. Fenner,
Thanks for your prompt reply. I'll see what I can find using the references
that you have sited. The research that we are pursuing are the possible
agents causing HLLE.
<The Octamita/Hexamita chase? Let's chat this over>
As a preliminary to this, we have yellow tangs that we have been treating and are looking for others who may have identified
microfauna from the gut to compare with some things that we have uncovered, primarily flagellates. My literature searches using several scientific
databases have been mostly unfruitful so far.
<There are a few celebrated "causes"... I'm decided that this
"condition" is mostly nutritional, but multi-causal in nature. Please
read through (credit to Stan Sniezsko, not I) the following: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mardisease.htm
and
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/hllefaqs.htm
Bob Fenner>
Tony Moore, M.Sc.
Aquarium Biologist
The Living Seas/Epcot
407-560-7666
My own question of the day (Re: Fw: Tang gut microfauna)
on this one...
James - has the job I wanted when I was younger - my experience with HLLE is all nutrition related. Without all circumstances, hard to know... perhaps
treatment has nuked microfauna, which in turn is blocking some kind of nutrient uptake... interesting. You know this microfauna thing much better
than me. Certainly large displays like EPCOT-living seas are subject to different factors hobbyists like myself can barely comprehend - giant
captive system, like big forest of single-species tree. One small
disease/pathogen, and lots of capable hosts and you got yourself an
outbreak. Interesting problem.
<Jason...>
Is that a chiding there or am I just off the scent? Curious. Did read your
reply to the same. Thanks. J --
<Much more, directed could be stated... hard to say what size system, water, food treatment protocols might be utilized here... and always an important element of responding to bear in mind the "browser effect"... that is, how the input may/will be taken by other folks who read it... perhaps (yes) years from now... Something for everyone (if possible/practical) of a broad interest, ability level. If a very involved topic, an addition to "the writing list" to either send a more definitive reference (in this case "to the library") or pen a feature/article. Bob
Fenner>
Fw: Tang gut microfauna
Hello Bob,
Here is an e-mail that came to me.
There have been a few in the last week, but this one more from a colleague
rather than a customer. Hope all is well. Take care, Don
P.S. I was in S.D. a few weeks ago and met one of your roommates friends. Jamie from New Jersey. Small world!
<Hmm, Jamie from NJ? My wife's family live there... but don't know of a
Jamie...>
Mr. Fenner,
Recently, Richard Stratton answered a letter in his TFH column Salt Solutions, concerning tang diets. I am currently conducting research on
this topic. In his answer, he briefly mentioned the microfauna found in their
guts. I mailed Mr. Stratton concerning his references for information
about this microfauna and he replied that the most immediate source that he had was your book, The Conscientious Marine Aquarist. Since I do not own a copy
of your book, could you mail me any possible references that you have on this topic. I have found a lot of articles that talk about this topic but
none that contain research findings or any references to research. Thanks for any information that you can give me.
Tony Moore, M.Sc.
Aquarium Biologist
The Living Seas/Epcot
<I have often mentioned the loss of gut microfauna of Acanthuroids as a
consequence of exposure to copper, other chemical "remedies"...
Stemming from work I am associated with from the early 1980s, testing
anti-fouling paints (organo-tins, copper...) in San Diego (a related lab in
Kaneohe Bay, Oahu)... for the US military. Don't know if in writing for
ornamental aquatics literature if this is specifically cited. My coverage of
these groups and bibliographies can be found: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tangs,.htm
and beyond... but I would go to a large/college library, or if you have access
to the Zoological Record/BIOSIS at your facility, search the literature under
the key terms. Bob Fenner>
Fwd: [SDMAS] Purple Tang loosing pigmentation
Hi All;
Does anyone know what would cause a purple Tang to loose pigmentation.
<Mainly nutritional deficiency... but water quality, physical damage, disease may play a role>
My fish has lost color on only one side and it looks like white blotches.
He looks healthy and has been eating. I am concerned because the blotches are getting bigger. The only
thing I have done differently has been adding Lugol's one drop a day 5 days a
week ( this is what the directions say for a tank my size). Needless to say I have stopped adding
Lugol's.
Any Ideas? Maurice B.
<I would stop the Lugol's... look into potassium iodide instead. And do utilize a liquid vitamin prep. on sheets of algae in the daily diet. Bob
Fenner, WetWebMedia>
Sick Tangs (Hippo and Goldrim)
Help, I am at a loss and am unsure what to do. We have noticed some brown and white Pimple like spots that are a
little inflamed on our blue tangs. Our baby blue tang has them all over with one BIG white bump near it's tail. The
bigger (fat) blue tang has some brown inflamed dots/little
bumps on her body and some spots look like they may be scars or places where these bumps were removed by shrimps or
Heniochus. We cannot figure out what is going on. We have two true Perculas that are fine,
Heniochus have Ich like
spots in the morning as well as the gold rim tang.
<This probably is ich>
All eat great and we feed a variety of food with Vita-Chem and Zoecon. We also occasionally
mix Garlic elixir in with their frozen food. I check water a few times a week and noticed
that Ammonia is at 1.0ppm,
<Yikes! This is way too high... should be zero. I would not feed this system
any foods at all at this point... and prepare to do a water change...>
nitrites are 0 and PH is 8.4... Phosphates are also high. We will do a 10 gal water change
today, but still are unsure what to do about brown and white
bumps/spots... Could Freshwater dips help?
<No to the freshwater dip... the best "treatment" at this point is
to cure the causes of the high ammonia (et al.)... What do you think the cause/s
are here?>
or will it stress fish more? We don't think it is an infestation in tank as not everyone has it.
<The tank itself IS infested... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mardisease.htm
and beyond via the posted links>
Also, two of the fish we have had about 4 weeks, the others for 13 months.. So how could they have
gotten these Parasites (if that is what they have?)
<Latent organisms on the new fishes likely>
Please respond as soon as possible so I can work on getting them well. Also, we are on a fixed budget and cannot get a
hospital tank and have inverts in our tank, so medication is limited....
<Perhaps no need. Do study where I've sent you, and soon, thoroughly. Bob
Fenner>
Re: Sick Tangs (Hippo and Goldrim)
THANKS FOR SUCH FAST RESPONSE!!! My fishes will appreciate! High Ammonia, not sure what it could be. We have
been medicating tank with Melafix (Big Hippo Bites baby Hippo and we were trying to help heal his bites, which are gone
now and have not noticed bigger hippo biting smaller in a while) We also have been feeding Lots of medicated flakes
trying to get rid of white and brown spots/bumps. Could be too much food.
<Yes>
We have a 50 gallon tank with two decent sized tangs, one baby tang, two small Perculas and two small
Heniochus (don't think overcrowding is issue) I need to feed them or big tangs "pick" at other inhabitants in tank, but
honestly think should maybe stop feeding medicated flakes and only feed
Spirulina and Mysis shrimp and Formula two.
Also, we put a few pieces of Seaweed selects in tank that got stuck on filter area and clogged up tank while we were
gone this weekend (also could be problem)
<Yes... best to use an all-plastic clip for strips of prepared algae
foods>
This is first time ammonia has been high in over as year. Should I stop all
meds and just worry about ammonia at this point?
<I would, yes>
Why are problems only on my tangs?
<They are more susceptible to ich, these sorts of insults/challenges>
And what is the big white bump on my baby hippo tang as well as inflamed black/brown dots?
<Likely environmental. Please read where you were sent. Bob Fenner>
Re: Sick Tangs (Hippo and Goldrim)
Mr. Fenner Thank You so much. I printed out about 25 pages from your site, will thoroughly read and take action. Will
stop all meds, but can I still put VitaChem and Zoecon in their food?
<Ah, yes. Please do so>
Also, Phosphates are VERY high, should I add something to lower that or just focus on Ammonia?
<By doing what is advised to reduce ammonia, you will concurrently lower the
phosphate>
And sorry to seem redundant but will ammonia cause all these problems (according to your site yes, but just want
confirmation).
<Yes>
How many times a day should we normally feed fish? Also (sorry) how can I keep temp constant. We are in
Southern California where it is pretty warm during the day and the temp rises to about 83F, then at night dips to about
80-81, we have heater, but hard to keep constant... Any suggestions? THANK YOU AGAIN!!!!
<Please peruse the WWM site, the Google search feature there for general
husbandry questions. Bob Fenner>
What to do with a drunken tang? (Hey, isn't this a song?)
Robert Fenner,
A friend of mine at my LFS told me about this web site. He said that I could find most answers to my marine questions on
WWM.
<Wow, quite a compliment. Don't know about "answers", but do have considerable accumulated opinions on
WWM>
If I couldn't the man himself is willing to help. So I am asking for it. I hope I do not presume too much.
Four days ago I purchased a Hippo Tang. He looked great, and have just learned now about quarantining fish, something I should have done with this fish. Yes he looked good a four days ago, but my how that changed. I now swims around like he is a drunk. This way and that, in circles, up and down. Not eating. His tummy looks bloated. His color is bad. My water is
Amm. O, No2.0, No3.5ppm, O2.is 7.
<You have 2.0 ppm of nitrite in your water? This alone could be the trouble here. This is too much, way too much.>
95lbs LR and 90lbs of LS. I add nothing to the water and my other fish; flame angle, 4
Chromis, 2 cleaner shrimp, 1 peppermint shrimp, 20 crabs, and 10 snails are all doing well.
I have heard of fish taking in air (what my LFS said could be the cause), but there are no air stones in the tank (90g.) and the pumps never give off bubbles in the water. Do you know what I can do?
<At this juncture? Maybe move the specimen into a shallower, darkened treatment/quarantine system with near-seawater conditions
(spg of 1.025, no ammonia, nitrite...) and a bit of rock, PVC pipe for it to hide in... or just leave it where it is and hope>
Or is it best just to let it go? Or do you know of anyone who might be of help if you can't give out advice? :)
<Good question. I might query the various hobbyist sites on the Net and take in, weigh other peoples input. Ours:
http://talk.wetwebfotos.com/>
Thank you for any help you are able to give. I'm sorry I just learned about your website. It is truly wonderful.
Lessa
<Life to you my friend. Bob Fenner>
Update of Kole tang with ick
Hi Bob Fenner,
I wrote a few days ago about my poor gambling decision of whether to try and handle the delicate mouthed Kole tang or to just opt not to dip or
quarantine him and put him in the tank as is,... (I will NEVER make that
bad decision again,... or go to Vegas with a lot of money for that matter.)
<Both sound points>
I was smart enough not to put his water in with him. He has developed a few more spots on him for a total of about 4 white spots, most are barely
visible, one is like a large grain of salt. You suggested I leave him in place and this is what I have done, and have read/ reread all the reading
you suggested. I have also read another source which suggests soaking all
the fishes foods in garlic oil to help keep parasites off.
<Some folks do swear by this "treatment"... I do cook with the raw product quite a bit>
I grew up in Texas,...EAST Texas, where the mosquitoes will carry you away if you sit
still long enough. I have practiced keeping these pests off me all my life by eating raw pieces of garlic, and it works. So why not try it on a fish.
<Take care not to have a "slick" form on your surface water, but otherwise, I'd try it>
I have also seen this method work on dogs and cats for fleas. I have also
began to slowly raise the temperature of the tank to 80 and lower the
salinity to 1.020.
<I'd go beyond these... to 82-84, spg down to 1.017 or maybe a bit lower.>
My questions are as such:
Will the live rock or the cleaner shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis) be affected
by this change in temp and salinity? (I know it is VERY important to do
this change VERY slowly, mostly for the sake of this guy)
<Yes... if go to fast, too far...>
I am also getting another cleaner shrimp tonight just because I want another
one,...Lysmata debelius, but will he help to clean parasites as well/and
possibly help this outbreak come under more control?
<Yes... wait to lower spg more than what this shrimp is in for a few days after it is moved in>
Last question, if all of these procedures are carried out over a period of a
couple of weeks/months, is it safe to say that the parasite has been
eliminated from the tank as long as I am not seeing spots on the fish?
<Unfortunately no... Cryptocaryon can/does encyst, wait out, minimally cycle in/out of its continuing life cycle stages "waiting" (yikes, apologies to Frank Aubrey for this teleological stmt.) for opportunities to "really get going">
(by the way, no other fish has come down with ick as of yet - just two damsels).
If I don't see that any of this is working, I'm calling my voodoo aunties in
New Orleans to help out.
<A third and fourth good idea in just one email message.>
Thanks for all of your advice. Peace, Jana
<And to you my friend. Bob Fenner>
Tang update
Hello again Robert
It Jason again with an update on our new Tang Acanthurus pyroferus
As you and other fish people suggested, I moved our new tang to the main system. He went from 1.012
to 1.19 salinity in a drip feed in about 2 hrs. I figured if he stayed in that q tank any longer he be dead soon anyway. He spent 2 days
not wanting to move and was being harassed by my trigger. He has not eaten since Tuesday. This morning I started making plans
to bring him back to the store. He just was not wanting hold his own with the other fish. My Trigger absolutely Hates him! Then he started to
brave it out later during the day. I started seeing him pick at some rock and
explore the rest of the tank. But still That damn trigger was trying to spear
him full blast with his mouth. My Annularis Doesn't really bother to chase unless
the Tang is in his way. My Flame angel is about the same size as the Tang. They really
don't seem to like each other either. They just flutter aggressively next each other and separate.
I'm Thinking of removing the trigger into my 12 gall eclipse for a few days.
Will this help?
<Possibly... but your systems are psychologically overloaded... too crowded period... time to do some hard thinking, and acting on what to remove/keep. Bob Fenner>
Thanks again, JET
Hello again! you've helped me before (Tang Health)
Hello again Robert
You've helped me with my annularis angel not long ago!
He's doing excellent! What personality on that fish!
<Ah, good to hear of your success>
I need some advice on a new critter!
We just got this new guy a week and one day ago. We acclimated him to
our 10 gal q tank via drip feed. I noticed unfortunately not till I put
him in the tank that he has one Black dot on his back fin, which I have
been told could be black ick or worm. The water parameters are good. I
started a hyposalinity treatment the next day. and over a week dropped
salinity from 1.020 to a 1.010. using this method
http://www.wyx.com/iheo/tank/hyposalinity.htm
<Am familiar with this protocol>
He has now stopped eating for the past 2 days. He was chowing down on
Mysis shrimp, prime reef, brine shrimp, flake food, and Seaweed selects. But now he nips spits and swims away! Do
these fish have fasting periods?
<May be the low salinity...>
Is this normal behavior. He also seems to gently glance the surface of his shell in the
tank. Not really like that of an itch from a parasite. Is that normal?
<Yes, to some extent>
He swims around and shows some interest in things. Not really stressed I don't think.
I have pics but don't really know if this will help. I've circled the black dot but still maybe to hard to see.
http://logos-and-graphics.com/tang/
<Yes. Good pix. A nice Acanthurus pyroferus... apparently in good health. If it were mine I'd return it to near seawater specific gravity and return it to your main/display tank... Don't worry about the "black dot". Bob Fenner>
Thanks for any info, JET
Injured Tang
Mr. Fenner,
I wanted to ask about your thoughts about my tang who is recovering from a nasty gash. I also wanted to say
that it was completely my fault. When you said that it was uncommon for such a thing to happen it made me
think. I told you about building up my LR for the new aquascaping some days ago. I made sure that the rocks
were secure. What I didn't do was make sure the pump that runs to my HOB skimmer was not loosened when I
was working on the rock. :(
<Arghh>
I went back to the "seen of the accident" to look over the area. The pump had slipped just slightly down
from the zip ties. What I am convinced happened was that my tang forged between two rock, nipped at it,
and cause the already weak pump to come down on the rock. I think that was what caused her to become
trapped and for the gash.
<Maybe. But will worrying change the future?>
My QT is running at optimal and I am keeping a frequent close eye on it and my tang. She has been for
most of the afternoon at the top of the water and gasping at times. I tested the oxygen level and it was
fine so I have concluded that the tear to the gill is causing her problems. What to do with that for right
now I am not sure. The gash it's self to my untrained eye does not look infected. I am not sure what it
would look like for that matter. I have search the web hoping for a picture of an infected wound but found
none. Do you know of any web sites with a picture of anything close?
<No my friend>
I just want to be able to take swift action if anything comes up.
I am more writing this e-mail to thank you for making me look at my actions in the tank and why this
happened. It was a sad but needed lesson.
Anna
<All will work out as you will see. Bob Fenner>
A trapped tang (at least injured)
Mr. Fenner,
First off I want to thank you for the quick response to my first email. That was such a welcome
surprise.
Just to recap, I wrote to you asking about the PVC pipe maze in my aquarium. I finished that two days ago
and I am pleased with how natural my artificial cave work looks.
This morning I walked into my living room where the tank is set up (lights still out) and glanced at the
tank and could not find my yellow tang. About ten minutes later the lights went on and I found him/her
trapped between two pieces of LR.
<Very unusual that fishes get jammed so>
I pretty much freaked out, jammed my hand in there and separated the
rock to free him/her. A huge gash is on her right side from the gill to just before the white spot of the
tail.
I netted Peanut (silly name I know) and placed her in the quarantine tank. I made sure to lower the SG to
1.019 and placed the suggested amount of StressCoat to the water. I placed a clip of green algae
(favorite) in and it was eaten like there was nothing wrong. I am very concerned about the gash and how it affects the
gills. Peanut's breathing is different. I wouldn't say labored but more spastic. I don't want to let her
suffer! Will time only tell or is there anything more I can do for my friend? If you get a chance (no rush) please drop me a
line. Thank you in advance.
<Hmm, well, that the fish is eating is a good sign... There are a few topical
things, dips, adjuvants that one can apply... weighing the trauma, effects of
these actions against their benefits. For now I would do nothing... if the wound
appears to be infected in a few days, it may be worthwhile to remove this fish
and daub on an antiseptic... we can talk then. In the meanwhile I would try to
keep its environment optimized and stable. Bob Fenner>
Black tang w/ intestinal blockage?
Hi Bob,
I am e-mailing you as a last resort, because I believe my black tang has an intestinal blockage. The tang is
about 3" and has been in my reef tank about six months. The tang has always been a voracious eater of
Nori, lettuce, live macro algae, Mysis shrimp, and formula one, so I believe it isn't linked to a bad
diet. The tang looks perfect on the outside, except that in the bottom "stomach" are of the
fish, the front
section is swollen and the back section is emaciated. The tang is breathing a little bit harder then normal,
but not super fast. I have read that Epsom salt can be used as a laxative for fish, but will it work for a
marine fish?
<Yes... as a dip/bath (not in the main tank of course), about a tablespoon per gallon, just in pH adjusted, dechloraminated freshwater... for ten minutes or so>
Thank you for any input you may have on the situation, or if it is indeed a blockage.
Thanks, Ethan Fisher
<Good luck to you and your tang my friend. Bob Fenner>
Re: Black tang w/ intestinal blockage?
Thank you for the information on using the Epsom Salt, because it worked very well. The tang passed whatever
it ate and is now eating and back in the reef tank.
<Ah, great news... Epsom/magnesium sulfate can work wonders. Bob Fenner>
Tang ick !
<Cheryl - Lorenzo Gonzalez for Bob>
I think I'm more stressed out than the fish seems to be. I have a tang
in a 5 gal. quarantine tank and his ick is worse this morning. I started copper treatments 14 hrs ago... I had first put him in dip-a-way
and he seemed to get better. I don't know if the dip-a-way is better than the copper or if I should dip him in fresh water also..
<Periodic freshwater dips (no more than once every 3-5 days) are an excellent
destroyer of all external marine parasites.>
the other big problem is that the ammonia level is at 1.0...should I make a 50 % change.?
<During treatment in so small a tank, you'll want to change a gallon every
day, since you have absolutely no viable nitrogen cycle in such an environment.
Be sure to dose the replacement water with the appropriate amount of copper.
Also be sure the replacement water has been properly mixed (spg should be around
1.017 during treatment) and de-chlorinated/aged as usual. Temp during ich
treatment should be around 82-83f. And if this fish was in your main system
earlier, then that system is now infected, and will need addition of
bio-cleaners soon - Lysmata shrimp or Gobiosoma gobies - definitely before the
Tang goes back in.>
Like I said...I'm more stressed out than he seems to be! I pretty sure he would
eat if I fed him...but I don't know if I should.
<Yes, you can/should. But definitely do a water change ASAP, and do them
frequently through the next 14 days. If the ammonia levels stabilize, you can
typically drop to 1 gallon every other day.
Tangs really can't stand copper, so yours will be quite weakened when all this
is done. Feed him sparingly, with favorite foods and some modicum of vitamin,
especially if he's already accustomed to vitamin-soaked foods. Take heart, and
good luck! -Lorenzo>
New tang, big-fish-mix
Hi Bob, quick question again.
<Hi Thomas, Lorenzo Gonzalez here, doing my best Bob impression while he's
incommunicado-in-Asia>
all is REAL well with my reef (added plenum), but had a question about my 160
(yes again). I had the tank coppered and was bringing the tank off of it, when i
noticed my tusk started hanging out in the upper right hand corner of my tank,
swimming all night!! his fins started to look ragged, so I treated with moderate
dose of Maracyn, I then came to realize that my miniatus grouper was no longer
so mini, and was territorializing the tank. I traded in the grouper, for a Naso
(lipstick tang), and added a small clown. I know I should have waited, but I seldom deal with this this
LFS anymore, and wanted to get my credit while
I could.
<Mmm. The tang is likely quite displeased with any remaining copper in that
tank. Tangs and copper never mix well.>
Anyway, I want to make sure I am not over stocked or have a bad mix. I have a
12+ queen angel, 5+- blue face, 6 in tusk, 7 in lunatic trigger (cross hatch),
the Naso and a small clown. the Naso is exhibiting white dots on fins (I did have
a quarantine tank, but that became my sump when I cracked the other).
<Did you at least freshwater dip the incoming fish? Extra important without a
quarantine system, and absolutely necessary if that clown is wild-caught.>
The tusk already seems happier, the tang is not eating (i got him yesterday,
looked good, swimming constantly). Sorry for the length, your writings suggest I
have a good selection, my question is one of space and how to coax the Naso to
eat. Thanks a million, Tom
<Sounds like a workable mix to me. Clown might be seriously shy due to
relative dwarfing by those big-boys. Bet that adult queen angel is a real
stunner. Oh yeah... the tang would probably appreciate some fluffy Caulerpa,
check out Gerald's 'Tang Heaven' (www.ipsf.com), if you really want to treat the
fish right. (Throw a light in the cabinet and grow this great stuff in your
sump!) In the meantime you can try some Nori, Spirulina, other pre-packaged
dried seaweeds, perhaps marinated in a tasty liquid vitamin to help bolster the
new Tang, or even some fresh baby spinach (not a long-term staple food) Put the
stuff in a clip, attached somewhere near where the tang mostly hangs out, and
leave it there a while. >
p.s. I lucked into a new LFS in the area that is heavy into successful
coral keeping, they are very well read and coincide with your methodology.
<Always lucky to find a decent LFS! Regards, Lorenzo>
Curing Ichy Tangs without copper
I'm sure you have had enough of these questions to last you a lifetime but I had an interesting idea (at least one I thought was interesting).
I have a 25 gallon tank (Eclipse 2, with power, chemical and bio filters and protein skimmer) with four hardy fish: 3 damsels, 1 clown. And about 12 lbs of live rock and no inverts. The problem is I have ick that has killed some of my other fish (royal
Gramma and Banggai cardinal). My hardy fish catch a little here and there but not enough to cause them harm.
What makes my situation unique is I do not have sand as substrate but rather small rock and crushed coral. Due to the small size of my tank, I should be able to remove all of the substrate. Would this, coupled with environmental manipulation (spg 1.015, 83 temp) aid in killing the ich since they would have no where to hide/breed?
Thanks for you time.
Regards,
Eric