Advice on filter/water circulation for 55 gallon  11/13/09
Hello, very comprehensive site, - through the years I found answers to many of my questions here! - Thanks!
<Glad to have been useful.>
There is a snapshot of my set up:
55 gallon
planted with Anacharis, Anubias, Anubias nano, floating Riccia and some duckweed
decorated with driftwood and rocks
2 heaters (temperature at 78-80)
Undergravel filter driven by a small loud pump
Livestock:
One 5 inch plecostomus
One 8 inch Jack Dempsey
One 7 inch Texas Cichlid
One Ropefish (about 14 inches)
<Poor thing! These gentle, gregarious fish are best kept in groups, and certainly away from cichlids and other aggressive fish.>
One Polypterus senegalus - 6.5 inches
<I've seen (Labidochromis) cichlids strip the fins from Bichirs, so to be honest, this the Bichir/Cichlid combination isn't one I recommend.>
Five silver dollars - about 2 inch diameter each
One 8 inch Leporinus fascinates
<Leporinus fasciatus can become extremely aggressive, and is a known fin-biter (apparently natural behaviour). I wouldn't be keeping this with Bichirs or Ropefish, and while I've seen them mixed with cichlids, I've heard of the odd specimen that has become so aggressive it's caused serious mayhem.>
I think I'm barely not overstocking tank or is it overstocked?
<In 55 gallons? Overstocked, and then some. More importantly, the selection of fish isn't at all wise.>
Cichlids compete for space but never gone worse then a lot of shaking at each other and some mild chasing. (prior to this set up i tried a species tank of Jewel Cichlids - that was "Battlefield Laterite" compared to what I got now :) )
<Well, the Bichir is still a baby, as are the Silver Dollars, so I wouldn't get too excited about a "job well done" just yet.>
I used an old Emperor 400 filter with two BioWheels, except it was second-hand and didn't have BioWheels and was very very loud - and finally was taken out of the tank - 4 months ago)
Water changes - at least every 2 weeks change of 5 gallons of water Ammonia is 0, Nitrites 0, i haven't measured PH in a while. Should be pretty hard, since in MN water comes of the limestone, but driftwood should compensate for at least some of it.
<No, driftwood doesn't work this way. Driftwood will lower the pH of soft water by releasing tannic acids; it does not substantially soften water though. For one thing, insufficient surface area.>
No loss of fish since set up of the tank 1 year ago with this exact livestock (they were much smaller, but the y also lived then in a 30 gallon).
<You got lucky. So far.>
4 months after the Emperor Filter was taken out of the tank I noticed slimy dark green clumps growing among the floating Riccia. Looks like green-blue algae to me. Smells nasty - like a swamp (previously tank had only a clean "aquarium" smell - which in larger amounts can be found in very good LFS places).
<Blue green algae.>
Is it a blue-green algae?
<Yes.>
Is there is a way to combat it with chemical/biological measures?
<Almost certainly -- as in I'd put $100 down on this -- the problems are two-fold: insufficient water movement, and very high levels of nitrate and phosphate. Blue-green algae is almost a "standard issue problem" with overstocked cichlid tanks, and often a precursor to bigger problems including Hexamita/Hole-in-the-Head, since the conditions that promote blue-green algae are the same ones that reduce the vitality of cichlids.>
Does any fish eat it?
<Not really, no.>
Plecostomus does not - drowned one clump but he showed no interest.
<Plec-type catfish are the biggest con in the game. They are more likely to *cause* an algae problem than fix one. Think about this for a moment. Algae does best in tanks with lots of nitrate and phosphate. Plecs are big, messy animals. Put the two together and you have happy algae. In tanks with big, messy fish algae removal is a two-step process: install bright lighting so that you can add Indian Fern and other algae-busting plants, and then use an algae sponge to remove whatever is left over. That's it. Those are the options. Nerite snails would be great, but the cichlids would likely eat them, but for $ a piece, you might feel they're worth a shot. Do read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_6/volume_6_3/fwalgae.html
>
Also clear parts of water surface are covered with a dimly iridescent film, like spilled grease or gasoline. What could that be?
<If it's golden, then likely Diatoms.>
It does disappear after water change, but comes back within 2-3 feedings.
<Proves my point: it's related to eutrophic conditions in the aquarium.
Hang-on-the-back filters are rubbish in terms of water circulation and I can't recommend them for fish tanks with big fish. I have no idea why they're so popular in America; you hardly see them in Europe, and frankly,
I don't miss them! You need massive water circulation in this tank, I'd say 8 times the volume of the tank in turnover per hour. Adding a big canister filter, ideally through a reverse-flow undergravel, would be the best
solution. Water changes need to be massive. And last but not least, you need to thin out your livestock. For a 55 gallon tank, you have something like three times the number of fish you can keep safely. The "inch per
gallon" rule applies to fish around an inch long, i.e., Neons, Guppies, etc. It OBVIOUSLY doesn't apply to big cichlids and catfish. Think about this for a moment. One Oscar is about 18 inches long when mature, as are twelve Neon tetras laid end to end. Which needs more aquarium space?>
Since largest fish are omnivorous - I feed a mix of bloodworms/mosquito larvae/spinach/peas/algae wafers/occasional feeder or shrimp.
<Why are you using feeder fish? This has been explained endlessly in books and magazines, but let's do it one more time. Feeder fish are "parasite bombs". Any fish bred for a few cents obviously won't be kept in good, hygienic conditions. Furthermore, feeder fish enhance aggression. Most importantly of all, cyprinids (goldfish, minnows, etc) are high in fat and thiaminase, and together these cause MAJOR health problems. Pick up any book on aquarium fish health and it will state in no uncertain terms that feeder fish are extremely bad. Bob Fenner has reported that a majority of non-old-age deaths of Lionfish are caused by goldfish feeders. So there's no real surprise here, and I can't for the life of me think why people still use them. They aren't even sold in England, and haven't been for a good twenty years. While we don't get much right in this country, I think on the feeder fish front we're definitely wise. If you want to offer live foods, choose something known to be safe, such as earthworms.>
Meanwhile fish look healthy and eat/behave as usual.
<For how much longer...? As I say, blue-green algae are common in tanks with poor water flow, limited oxygen, high nitrate, and high phosphate.
That's a cocktail of trouble. As fish grow, they become more demanding in terms of aquarium resources, so the fact they've been healthy when younger doesn't mean they'll stay healthy as they grow older.>
I reasoned that the undergravel filter alone does not serve the tank and I need to shell out for a new filter. This is what I'm looking for:
1. large enough throughput
2. preferred some kind of underwater water output - otherwise may get loud as water evaporates quickly in the summer.
3. quiet (tank is in the living room of a co-op and my mates will fry my cichlids if I raise DB level of the house again :) )
4. under $100 of at least under $150
<Since I'm not in the US I can't really price things up for you. But I'd mention that a Classic Eheim 2217 costs around 27 UK Pounds and has a turnover of over 250 gallons/hour. A couple of those would really help.
They're built to last and very quiet. So while pricey, Eheim filters are by far the best value since they routinely run for over ten years without problems. There are plenty of cheaper options, and a budget external canister plugged into a reverse-flow undergravel shouldn't break the bank.>
What would be your recommendations?
<See above. Alternatively, take back a bunch of fish, and keep two or three fish suited to this tank, maybe the JD, the Texas, and the Plec (but anything with the Plec is going to be filthy). Personally, I'd have stuck
with the Bichir, three Ropefish, and maybe a school of Congo Tetras or Rainbowfish for the midwater. I'd still have space for a Bristlenose Plec, which is smaller, cleaner, and does remove some algae.>
what else can improve water quality of the tank?
<Many, many things.>
Huge Thanks for help! - Elena
<Hope this helps. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: <sic> advise on filter/water circulation for 55 gallon  11/13/09
Thanks for the answer!
<You're welcome.>
I'll work on thinning the tank - frankly I knew long ago it's far from the best mix, but as it happens Cichlids' antics grow on you.
<Yes indeed. But they *are* demanding fish in so many ways.>
Bichir was the first fish in this set up - bought him 3 years ago at a size of a matchstick, and I'm bent on keeping him while getting better tank mates.
<Cool.>
1. Trade in JD and Texas cichlids, potentially trade in the Leporinus (I've seen aggressive behavior from some in the stores and while mine is peaceful, it could be just the cichlid presence that makes him so)
<Likely depends on the fish, the environment, and indeed as you say, the companions.>
3. if possible get more ropefishes - 1 or 2 more, It's all i can afford at the moment.
<Maybe swap the cichlids for them? Trust me: get three, and a nice hollow ornament, even a halved flowerpot, they can hide in, and you'll be charmed by them. They enjoy hanging about in groups, all tangled up, with their heads poking out of their cave.>
4. I'd like to may be get a few smaller cichlids that would display personality and add to the tank?
<Pelvicachromis spp. work great with Bichirs and Ropefish, as would anything reasonably small and mellow, e.g., Keyholes, Flag Acara, maybe even Blue Acara or a Firemouth (these are aggressive when breeding, but otherwise easy-going).>
For all my love to Polypteridae - they are not as colorful and fun to watch as cichlids.
<Understandable. Congo Tetras and Leopard Bushfish (Ctenopoma acutirostre) are my favourites to fill this niche. Bushfish are easy to feed on wet-frozen bloodworms and other such treats, and don't need feeder fish, despite what some might suggest. Congo tetras and Bushfish are from Africa, so together with the Bichirs and Ropefish, you have a nice African scene.
Add some Anubias and floating Indian fern for shade, and maybe a school of Dwarf Synodontis on the catfish front... what more can you ask for?>
I think of a couple Convicts, may be a Kribensis (couple),
<Convicts wouldn't be more choice at all; Kribs, and indeed other Pelvicachromis spp., like Pelvicachromis taeniatus, would be fine choices.
Since you're in MN, you might get in touch with one of the fish clubs there. I happen to be talking to one of them in Minneapolis in January, so know of at least one. Fish clubs are a great way to swap unwanted fish, to obtain plants and fish cheaply, and to track down "rare" fish you don't see in pet shops. But having said that, all the fish I've mentioned so far are in the trade and easy to order, even if they're not in the tanks this very day.>
Please advise!
Thanks Again! - Elena
<Cheers, Neale.>

Re: <sic> advise on filter/water circulation for 55 gallon  11/14/09
Neale,
<Elena,>
this will be the last email from me - I got more then enough info already!
<Oh!>
what about a Black Ghost Knife as a Bichir/Ropefishes companion in 55 g - MonsterFishkeeper forum recommended them as suitable tank mates for bichirs (and they are probably most beautiful fish ever!) - may this work or is 55 gallon too small for BGK?
<In terms of temperament, yes, non-aggressive Bichir species can cohabit with Black Ghost Knifefish. HOWEVER, do understand that Apteronotus albifrons is one of the most delicate fish commonly traded, and most specimens (surely 90% of them) die within a year. Given these fish can live 20 years and get to 45 cm or so in length, that's a sign folks don't keep 'em well. They are extremely sensitive to "old" water with high nitrate levels. They come from shallow, fast water habitats around rapids and waterfalls, so expect lots and lots of oxygen and water current. While your Bichirs would be fine with that provided the tank wasn't too deep (Bichirs are air breathers, so have to be able to swim to the surface) if you are having problems with blue-green algae, then it's likely your current filtration system is far inadequate for a Black Ghost. Oh, and it should go without saying that apart from inoffensive dwarf cichlids, you can't reliably mix cichlids with Black Ghosts. Sure, some folks do, but as/when they keep 'em alive for twenty years, then I'll accept it's do-able. For the most part, cichlids are poor tankmates for Black Ghosts. Too much competition for living space and food, and high nitrate levels are even more lethal to Apteronotus than they are to cichlids. Exceptions might be made for cichlids from similar fast-water habitats, e.g., Steatocranus and Nanochromis, but these are difficult fish to keep at the best of times, and not viable in the average community tank. Well oxygenated, fast-flowing, somewhat cool (24-25 C) water will be needed.>
If you know any clubs in Minneapolis I'd appreciate a contact info. I'm still new to the city and only know of World of Fish store (may be you know of them - largest in the city) and Aqualand (also a reputable store, bought my Ropefish there and got a deal on 10 gallon tank for crustaceans) - but not of any clubs!
<Well, the one I'm visiting is the Minnesota Aquarium Society in Roseville, MN, apparently not far from  Minneapolis.
http://www.aquarium.mn/
There may well be others.>
Thanks - Elena
<Cheers, Neale.>