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FAQs on Freshwater Popeye, aka Exophthalmia, Other Eye Issues

Cloudy eye on fish 9/5/08
HI,
I have a large a (7 inches) gray/black catfish type thing and it started out 10 days ago with a cloudy eye. For the last 10 days I have been treating with Pimafix and now both eyes have gone cloudy and maybe a tiny tiny patch on his whisker.
<Pimafix/Melafix don't work reliably. That's why we don't recommend them. So, stop using them, and instead switch to a reliable combination Finrot/Fungus medication. In Europe I'd recommend eSHa 2000; in the US Maracyn is the drug of choice.>
Maybe I'm imagining that one. Anyway, both eyes are cloudy after 10 days on Pimafix so I put a dose of cooper safe in because I can't figure out what it is and nether can anyone else. SSSSSO, the ph is 7.0 and temperatures is around 72-74. What do you think?
<See above.>
Lisa
<Treat with suitable medication, following instructions carefully, in particular remembering to remove carbon from the filter. Your fish should recover. Do also try and figure out the source of the infection. When both eyes turn cloudy, it's usually a water quality issue, so review ammonia/nitrite levels and act accordingly. Extremes of pH, or sudden changes in water chemistry, can cause problems too. Finrot/Fungus almost never "come out of nowhere". Cheers, Neale.>

re: cloudy eye on fish 9/15/08
HI,
<Ave,>
I have already done a round (5 days) of the Maracyn and I'm 3 days into a second round. My fishes eyes are a little better but nowhere near cleared up.
<Rinse and repeat, as they say in the shampoo manufacturing industry. Or put it this way, if things are getting better, albeit slowly, that's the direction you want. Complete a course of medication, do a big (50%) water change, and then repeat. Keep doing this until it's better.>
I was the problem to begin with by not cleaning the tank as frequently as I should.
<Ah, well, now you know.>
Should I try a different medication like tetracycline?
<Can't comment on this; haven't used either antibiotic myself. So would tend to recommend you stick with what's working. Fundamentally, eye infections are reactions against physical damage and/or marginal water quality. As the skin tissues heal, the eye will "get better". The job of the antibiotic is to prevent the infection getting deeper into the eye tissues (which would cause blindness) and to prevent any other infections from becoming established.>
Lisa
<Cheers, Neale.>

Re: cloudy eye on fish 9/16/08
Thanks,
Now I need a valium since I have been a neglectful mother sniff sniff.
<Oh?>
I will continue to take care of my fish and thank you for all your help. One more thing. Food. I have been feeding lately with frozen cubes of bloodworms, brine shrimp etc.. muti pack. How often do I do this and do you have a better idea.
<It's easier to overfeed than under-feed. I figure a single cube will be one meal for tanks in the 20-40 gallon range, and would tend to offer small meals this size maybe two or even three times per day depending on the number of fish and the size of the aquarium. Frozen food contains a lot of water, and is only about 5% protein; compare this with 30% or more protein in flake. Since protein is (ultimately) the stuff that makes ammonia, you're less likely to cause problems with frozen food than with flake food. In any event, the idea is to provide enough food the fish are obviously healthy, i.e., have gently rounded convex bellies. Overfeeding doesn't kill the fish by fattening them up to have coronary heart attacks, but by polluting the water; so provided ammonia and nitrite are zero, you're basically fine. Of course gross overfeeding can push the nitrates upwards, and that's bad for lots of reasons. But otherwise don't worry too much, and go by instinct.>
I heard that if I feed with feeder fish, my smaller zebras will go missing and once they get the taste of live food that's all they will want.
<Pretty much. You should never use live fish as food for any ornamental fish if at all possible. There are just to many costs/risks involved. Since catfish will eat just about anything, and in the wild even predatory catfish will be consuming stuff from fruit through to baby birds, coming up with a healthy diet for them isn't hard.>
Lisa
<Good luck, Neale.>

Cichlid, pop-eye please assist 8/1/08
Hello, I have read through many of your postings but really feel I need guidance concerning my yellow cichlid.
<Fire away!>
I set up a freshwater 55gallon tank on July 4, 2008. I am new to cichlids, but I have been spending hours researching online about them. (And finding that I have done SO many things wrong, but 5 out of 6 cichlids are now currently very happy.) I have mbuna cichlids. I realize I have done so much to my cichlids, but please help guide me to what I should do for my little yellow one.
<Ah, the cichlids we call Mbuna run the range from relatively easy to keep, tolerant fish (such as Yellow Labs, Labidochromis caeruleus) through to extremely aggressive, potentially tankmate-killing monsters like Blue Zebras (Pseudotropheus zebra/Maylandia zebra). Contrary to what you might imagine because of their similar water chemistry requirements, you can't throw them all into the one tank and hope they'll get along. They won't. The aggressive, potentially hyperdominant (read: nasty) fish will systematically bully and potentially kill anything it doesn't like.>
At first, I bought four 1" to 1 1/2" cichlids, but one wasn't eating or swimming and died within 72 hours. I took that cichlid back to the store, replaced it, and bought 4 more (for a total of 8.) I noticed my tank was starting to smell, so I did a 10 gallon water change which sadly killed 4. I bought 3 more and an algae eater (for a total of 7--I should have just left my tank alone and let it cycle.)
<The algae-eating fish is redundant in the Mbuna tank. Mbuna eat algae, and without it won't do all that well. Mbuna are also super-sensitive to poor water quality. While not *quite* as sensitive as, say, marine fish, they aren't far off. You need nitrate levels 20 mg/l or less, and zero ammonia and nitrite. All this recommends against keeping anything as messy (and big) as Plec.>
All of the fish were happy for a good week and a half. Then I noticed my little blue one had a white patch on his side, was not eating, and was isolating himself. I thought maybe his fin was torn off, but the next day I noticed it had gotten worse. I did not have a spare tank at that time and was worried that my other fish might have the same infection, so...
<The white patch was very likely Finrot or Fungus, and this would be caused by either poor water quality and/or physical damage. Let's recap: clean water has no smell, or if it does, the water should smell sweet thanks to all the plant life. If the tank smells offensive in any way, that's a very bad thing. It usually means there's decay in the tank, e.g., from uneaten food. Mbuna absolutely must not be overfed, and their diet should be biased towards green foods rather than anything high protein. Feed sparingly, from a mixed menu, and not just pellets/flakes. I'd recommend greens (tinned peas, cooked spinach, Sushi Nori) along with whole (i.e., low protein, high fibre) invertebrates like bloodworms and brine shrimp. Now, you also have to have lots of filtration and generous water changes or the water conditions will be poor. I'd recommend a filter offering not less than 6 times the volume of the tank in turnover per hour. So if you have a 55 gallon system (the minimum for Mbuna in all honesty) you'd get a filter with something over 330 gallons per hour turnover. External canister filters work great for this, but you can also use a undergravel with powerheads at each end of the tank. Read any book on Rift Valley cichlids for more on this topic. Water changes should be 25-50% per week. The more the better. Obviously the fish need hard, alkaline water, so understand water chemistry and manage this aspect accordingly. Again, a book on Malawi cichlids will help.>
I treated the whole tank. With Melafix (which seemed to do no good, as I have seen you do not recommend it either) and Pimafix.
<Both products may have value as preventatives, but aren't reliable as cures once the infection has set in.>
I also treated the whole tank with Jungle Parasite Buddies because I saw the blue one had long stringy thin feces. Now my tank is a wreck. The other 6 were fine, but just stayed on one side of the tank. The blue cichlid got worse by the day and after 3-4 days(?)the fungus/bacteria (that I thought Pimafix would help) had eaten him.
<At the moment you're wasting your money. In fish healthcare, just as with humans, you must identify the disease first, and then buy the treatment. You're randomly adding stuff here, hoping something will work. Slow down. It's better to work logically, step by step. So far all these symptoms are fairly generic, and tend to imply a reaction to poor water quality. Stringy faeces can be a symptom of poor diet, Hexamita, and many other things. So let's slow down and try and get to the bottom of things!>
That same day my little yellow one started isolating itself on the other side of the tank where the blue one had been and would not eat.
<He's being bullied. He has no place in this system.>
Its mouth seemed to have white cottony fungus/bacteria on it.
<Quite possibly Finrot, Mouth Fungus (actually a bacteria), or plain vanilla Fungus. All three follow on from physical damage. Think of them as the "gangrene" of the fish world. Easy enough to treat using products like Maracyn (in the US) or eSHa 2000 (in Europe). But treating them won't stop them coming back, so if this fish is bullied -- as it is -- and getting damaged, you'll cure one round of infection only to have to deal with again a few days or weeks later.>
I quickly bought a 2 gallon tank with a filter, put the yellow cichlid into it, and treated the hospital tank with Jungle Buddy Fungus Clear and aquarium salt, and kept the temperature stable at 80. The next day, I noticed she was getting white cottony growth on her cheeks.
<Needs treatment as stated above. Also note that "aquarium salt" is harmful to Mbuna, and known to cause something called Malawi Bloat. Again, any book on Mbuna will explain this.>
By the 3rd day, the cottony growth on her cheeks was gone and her mouth looked very good. She was still not eating, and on the 4th day (yesterday) I noticed one of her eyes is bulging a bit (pop-eye, I assume.) I read that it could be from unclean water, trauma, bacteria, etc.
<Pop-eye tends to work two ways. If only one eye is bulging, then physical trauma is the likely cause, with bacteria having set in secondarily. If both eyes are bulging, the infection is more likely to be systemic and caused by serious problems with water quality. Either way, treatment with an antibiotic (such as Maracyn) can help, but recovery is often very slow and depends on the fish otherwise being maintained in ideal conditions.>
While all of this was going on with my yellow cichlid in her own tank, I have done plenty of water changes to the main tank, and they are SO happy. Nitrites and Nitrates are 0, ammonia is minimal, temperature stays at a constant 80F, ph is staying constant at 7.5 and very slowly raising to the appropriate ph level for cichlids thanks to Cichlid Salt and crushed coral in my 2 filters, and my very soft tap water is now hard and in cichlid range.
<Understand this, there is no "minimal ammonia". All ammonia, any ammonia, is bad. Saying "minimal ammonia" is as meaningless as saying someone is "almost pregnant". So, here's at least one fundamental problem -- the ammonia. Mbuna have ZERO tolerance of ammonia, and long term it WILL cause harm. If you have ammonia in the aquarium, then one (or two, or three) of the following is true: [a] the tank is overstocked; [b] the tank is under-filtered; and [c] the tank is overfed. Pick and choose as seems appropriate, and act accordingly.>
The Jungle Buddies Fungus/Bacteria medicine said to not retreat until after 4 days. Since it had been the 4th day, and I noticed the pop-eye and all cottony growth gone, I did a very slow and gradual water change in her tank (after checking the ph on both and they were almost identical) using the main tank's water to fill her tank. She seemed fine with the change and maybe a little happier too (aside from not eating and the pop-eye and being weak) so I put her into a small breeder tank inside the main tank while I rinsed her small tank with hot water, then cool water, and used the main tank water to refill it.
<Cleaning the hospital tank is pointless if you're killing the filter bacteria as well. Be sure you understand what's going on here: hot water will kill filter bacteria, and the resulting ammonia crisis will stress/sicken any fish put in here.>
I put the Jungle Buddies Fungus/Bacteria medicine back into the small tank and put her back in it last night (it says it treats pop-eye as well as fungus and bacteria.)
<Oh good.>
Her eye is still bulging. I do not see any cottony growth or abnormalities on her anywhere aside from the eye, no appetite, and weakness. (I can't tell if both eyes are bulging, but one is definitely larger than the other and I can see the skin(?) covering over it.)
<This does happen with cichlids, and is usually a very good sign that not all is well in their tank.>
I'm going to leave my main tank alone for good, but keep checking ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, ph. My question (after my long novel) is what should I do about my yellow cichlid? Should I leave her in the hospital tank with the Fungus Clear (that says it treats pop-eye) for the full 4 days?
<Isolate from other fish, yes. Not sure 2 gallons of water is safe, but if that's all you have at the moment then so be it. Long term this fish needs to be re-homed.>
Should I leave her in her own tank with just water from the main tank? Should I add some Epsom salt to her tank to help the swelling?
<If you want.>
I think my main concern is that she has not been eating for at least 5 days and is weak.
<I'd be getting worried too. She won't eat if water quality is bad though, so check you have zero ammonia/nitrite first before you even think about offering food.>
I am glad that all of the cottony white is gone and her mouth and cheeks look clear.
<Good.>
Thank you so much.
<Hope this helps, Neale.>

Kribensis with popeye, hole in the head, a proto or fluke spike protruding from between two scales & ich..... 2/21/08
Sorry for the length of this submission-
But, this is a complicated matter-
I have a Kribensis with popeye, hole in the head, a proto or fluke spike protruding from between two scales & ich..... A crazy combination that I would think all stems from poor conditions.
This however is not the case. He came out of a healthy 55 gallon community tank with a balanced load of fish (including other Kribi's), under gravel filtration & a more than sufficient canister filter.
The #'s are 0(ish) Ammonia, 0(ish) Nitrites & 8.2-8.4ph. Water changes are frequent. Diet is varied and high quality. The other fish did not pick on him. In all, it is a healthy, stress-free tank....
My first suspicions of cause(s) were based on the fish being a recent addition:
The fish was only in the tank for 14 days-
He came from a planted display tank at a good LFS, he had been there 6+ months, had always looked healthy & had recently spawned- (his mate came home with us too.)
After 14 days the popeye developed. Again, I thought stress of transport & netting.
Other possible causes / stressors may have been:
New (well rinsed) carbon (could have contributed to the HITH too?)- And / Or, new beads in the filter- Or, a new plastic spray bar on the filter contributing toxins that the fish is sensitive too.....?
No other fish showed, or have shown (5 days later now), signs of any illness.
I moved the sick fish to a quarantine tank and began medicating / treating with Maracyn Plus (replaced % after water changes), adding Aquarium salt at 1tblsp per 10 gal (replaced % after water changes), 20% daily water changes and a temperature of 82 degrees F.
The fish has now developed hole in the head (some scarring indicates it might have been effected before) that also extends to the gill plates, a spike near the tail that looks like a fluke / proto & ich flecks in 3 areas...... This little guy is a hot zone.
The last part of this whole confusing ordeal is that he is fighting so well-
The fish stays mid tank at the bottom, upright, fins up / out, eyes are clear, colors are bright as ever, is attentive and eats (though challenged by impaired vision through 'popped' eyes...)
Aside from all the measures being taken, can you make additional suggestions as to the cause(s) and / or treatment?
I am considering augmenting the current treatment(s) with copper for the ich as it is acceptable to use in conjunction with Maracyn.
Any insight or info is appreciated.
Thank You-
Matt
<Hello Matt. Dwarf Cichlids across the board are sensitive to dissolved metabolites. Your fish certainly has HITH/HLLE. There are few reliable cures (Metronidazole is most recommended), so it is one of those things you try to avoid that fix.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/hllefaqs.htm
In any case, once fish are infected, even if you cure the symptoms, the disease often comes back again. It is widely believed that there are a combination of factors involved, but water quality is the trigger even if there is a specific pathogenic organism that does the harm. In other words, it's a lot like Finrot. The best I can recommend is treating the fish with Metronidazole, ideally in its own aquarium. But I haven't seen small cichlids with this amount of damage recover, so can't offer much hope in the long term. Do please remember carbon removes medications from the water, so if you treat a fish, remove the carbon. The addition of salt is probably not necessary either; contrary to myth, Kribs aren't especially associated with brackish water, and long term exposure to salt can damage freshwater fish. Cheers, Neale.>

F. Betta with Popeye 11/5/07
Hi Everyone,
<Elizabeth>
My female Betta has Popeye and it seems as though she is now blind. I have her in quarantine and am treating her with Ampicillin GEL-TEK, following the bottle's instructions. She isn't eating (I think) and is losing her color. I know fish have a really good sense if smell but I put in a pellet and she swims right past it. She lays at the bottom of the tank, then jets up to get some air then settles back down. Three times I have seen her swimming like crazy in a circle (her quarantine bowl is round) then she stops and hangs out at the top. Are her eyes sensitive to light?
<Perhaps>
How can I treat her if she won't eat the gel?
<Need to use something that can be applied to the water>
I can't find Ampicillin in capsule form.
<Is about... on the Net>
And how is she still alive after 7 days of this? Her bowl is one gallon, heated with a heating pad to a perfect 76 degrees.
<Is it filtered?>
I have to come clean and say that even though her main tank (6 gals) is filtered, water changed and vacuumed, while I was recuperating after an accident, I didn't get to REALLY clean her tank they way I usually would as I had reconstructive shoulder surgery. I feel awful. Very awful thinking that I have caused her sickness.
<Is possible>
What is your suggestion?

Thank you,
Elizabeth

Re: F. Betta with Popeye 11/07/07
Hi Bob,
<Elizabeth... would call you Liz if I knew you better...>
Found capsule Ampicillin online, thank you. She will be returned to her big, heated, filtered tank ASAP.
Thank you,
Elizabeth
<Ahh! Good. Thank you for this news. Bob Fenner>

Re: F. Betta with Popeye 11/13/07
Hello Bob,
<Liz...>
Returning Nigella to her big tank was an excellent idea. She may be hard of seeing but she seems happier. Fins finning, blowing bubbles and being back in her home has already helped. Her Ampicillin just came and the water has been treated.
<Ah, good>
It seemed logical to take some tank water in a small clean jar, add the dose of Ampicillin in that water and shake it up then add it back to the tank. In any case, that's what I did. Now we are waiting to see how well she reacts to her real medicine.
<Good>
I'll keep you posted on her recovery.
Cheers,
Elizabeth, Liz, Betty, Libby, the list goes on. Feel free to call me Liz:)
<Thank you for this update! BobF>

Fire eel with pop eye and cloudy eye – 10/30/2007
Hello All-
<Emily.>
I am so glad I have found WWM! I happened to stumble upon your page while doing research for my sick Eel. I'll try and keep this short. For the last 3 weeks my fire eel has had cloudy bulgy eyes. (almost looks like he's wearing goggles) Is this pop eye?
<Yes sounds like a bacterial infection of the eye.>
His appetite is a little decreased but he is still nibbling at his blood worms each day (not as much so in the last 2 days). He has also gone pale in color over the last week. I really don't want to loose him, I'm a novice fish owner! He's in a 75 gallon tank and I've had him for about 6 months. He has lots of hiding places and none of the other fish bother him. Last week I started treating him with Ampicillin
<...is for gram negative bacteria.>
every other day for 5 days since Erythromycin
<...is for gram positive bacteria.>
and tetracycline
<...treats gram negative as well negative bacteria of some types.>
has not helped. I have also done two 50% water changes within the last week. His color has improved a little but his eyes are still very cloudy. He just lays on his side hiding in his cave all day. He has always been a pretty mellow eel. I had my water
tested at a local fish store and everything seemed fine.
<Numbers would help, especially hardness and nitrates.>
What should I be doing for my eel?
<Although fire eels most commonly occur in soft water habitats like some streams, swamps and even flooded rice fields and only rarely are found near estuaries, they may do much better in hard to slightly brackish water in captivity. The exact reasons therefore are unknown and may be related to some interaction of ions (hardness, salinity, carbonate hardness) and the accumulation of possibly toxic compounds in the tank water (e.g. nitrates), that, due to dilution, does not occur in nature to such extent. Although adding salt to the standard fish tank can well be considered an antique technique from times when the need for partial water changes was unknown, I’d suggest to increase the salinity of the water to reach a specific gravity of 1.002 (roughly 3-4 grams marine salt from the pet store per litre). That should improve the constitution of the fish and won’t kill your filter bacteria. In addition I’d try to improve the diet by offering a variety of foods, because if he only ate bloodworms, he may also suffer from a lack of vitamins. Try earth worms, little shrimps and also soak the blood worms in vitamins from time to time prior to feeding. You have already used a lot of antibiotics, so I’d get a test kit and check if nitrites are 0 all the time. Nitrates should be below 20 ppm for good healing conditions. If another antibiotic has to be used (I hope not), try Maracyn.>
Thank you and warm regards! – Emily
<Also have a look at http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/matacembelids.htm and the linked files above. Hope that helps and your eel gets well again. Marco.>

Betta Fish Popeye 3- Ampicillin Dose 10/19/07
Hi Crew: Neale answered my question last time, suggesting Ampicillin . I wrote a few weeks back about my betta with Popeye. Tank is 2 gal, filtered with BioWheel. Tank tests at 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 5 nitrate ( this is the tap water) and 8 pH (also local) I age and dechlorinate the tap water. Temp is 80 degrees.
<All sounds good. Ageing water, by the way, is redundant now if you use a good dechlorinator. Though there's no harm doing it if you want!>
I began treatment with Epsom salt, moved to Furan and we are now on the second dose of Ampicillin.
<Very good.>
Poor Chip (we have had him for 18 months) cannot see, so I have been taking him out during tank changes (50% every other day since this started 6 weeks ago using a siphon) and giving brine shrimp, bloodworms initially. But the last 2 weeks, he misses them completely, even with me using an eye dropper, so I am using betta flakes so he can easily grab them. He has not eaten the last 3 days - he swims around blindly trying to grab them, but misses.
<Be persistent, but don't panic too much... fish can go days without food.>
Jungle antibiotic food did not work - he spit it out initially since it was so hard and he didn't like it.
<Common problem with small fish. Much medication is formulated for big, expensive fish like Koi that people are likely to spend effort on healing. Common attitude with small fish is they're "disposable". Shame.>
He has been sitting on the bottom completely since I started the second dose, moving every so often and coming up once in a while to grab some air. (Before he would often sit on his plant near the heater.) He now won't come up for food. His breathing is rapid since I started the Ampillicin. I stopped the Epsom salt and gave 1 1/2 tsps of sea salt to see if it would perk him up. It has in the past, but not this time.
<I'm not a fan of randomly adding salt to aquaria.>
I have 250 mg of Ampillicin dissolved in a gallon of water. With the help of the math teacher brother-in-law, we have calculated that it is about 13 oz of water per gallon to dose the tank safely. I have given him a dose every other day as instructed on the package, with the water change, I have not used a new Ampicillin pill each time, but just used the treated water which is sitting in a plastic milk jug. I am concerned that maybe I should be using a new pill each time to ensure it is fresh.
<Possibly, but I wouldn't worry too much. Store unused medicated water in a covered jar in the fridge though. Excess heat and light could certainly alter the drug.>
Should I not change the tank water, but just take out enough to replace it with the Ampicillin water? This would increase the dosage. There is no carbon in the filter.
<Hmm... in this instance I'd minimise water changes through the course of treatment. Though in practise, the medication is probably metabolised by the bacteria in the filter very soon after you pour it into the tank. But I've not used Ampicillin, since it isn't freely available in the UK, and my honest (and by UK standards, legally acceptable) advice has to be to consult with a vet. Not very helpful to you, I'm afraid. To be honest, it probably doesn't matter much either way, whether you change a bit of water or a lot, since I'm fairly sure the drug will be entirely metabolised by the bacteria within 24 hours.>
So, is there anything else to do?
<Pray to the Fish Gods.>
I have thought we were at the end several times already, but he is still hanging on. To review six weeks of care:
Water changes ( I am heating the water to 80 before returning him to the tank)
Meds tried: Epsom salt, Furan, Ampicillin
Feeding in small space to ensure he eats
Thanks, Asa
<You're doing everything you can. Stick with it, and hope for the best. As I say, treating small fish, especially in small tanks, is difficult and the results variable. The very nature of small fish that by the time we see a problem, the strain on their internal organs is often very severe. An adult Koi carp at least has some reserves of fat to draw on, and so various therapies can be tried out until you find one that works. But something as small as a Betta may only have a few days within which you can find the "silver bullet". Good luck, Neale>

Betta Popeye Not Responding to Epsom Salt 9/20/07
A week ago I noticed my male Betta, Chip had Popeye in his left eye. We have had him for 18 months. He lives in a 3 gallon Marineland Explorer tank with a filter and BioWheel. (We had gone away for a week and he got overfed - the nitrates were high, over 50.) I checked WWM and put in Epsom salt as required and I have been doing a 50% water change everyday, replacing the Epsom salt. He has been resting a lot, but comes to see me when I am near. He seems tired and the whole thing looks painful and it has not improved. When I have tried to feed him brine shrimp or bloodworms, he can't see them and they sink to the bottom. I have been giving him flake food instead and tuning off the filter so he can grab it more easily. The only things in the tank are a small decorative treasure chest, the filter tube and a silk plant for him to rest on. Any other suggestions? I am concerned about adding antibiotic to such a small tank, but I am also reluctant to let this drag on without him getting better.
Asa in DC
<Greetings. Pop-eye tends to be caused by two distinct things: mechanical damage (e.g., rough handling) or poor water quality. There are other things that can cause it, but not all that often. So, you need to zero out those two most likely issues. Is there anything in the aquarium that it could scratch itself on? Some people stick things like fake corals and plastic plants in tanks, and these can be fine, but in very small tanks it is so easy for a Betta to throw itself against one of these objects when alarmed. That's why I tend to prefer small tanks be decorated only with silk or real plants, and only very smooth rocks, such as water-worn pebbles. Second thing, check the water. A Betta needs water with moderate hardness, a pH around neutral, zero ammonia, and zero nitrite (with an "i"). The nitrate (with an "a") isn't such a big deal and I wouldn't worry about it. Temperature is a factor, but it isn't something I'd expect to cause pop-eye; pop-eye is really a reaction of the sensitive tissues of the eye to irritating water. Think of it as a bit like conjunctivitis on a human. Adding an appropriate antibacterial or antibiotic to the water may help to soothe the infection, and is certainly worth using. I hope this helps, Neale>

Re: Betta Fish Popeye Not Responding to Epsom Salt or Furan – 09/25/07
Hi Crew and thanks for the advice the other day.
<Hi Asa, Andrea with you today. Not sure who you talked to, but you are very welcome.>
It has been ten days since I discovered my betta had Popeye. I have him in a 2 gallon Marineland tank with a filter. Since I found out, I have been doing a 50% water change most every day, initially adding about 1 1/2 tsp of Epsom salt and, putting in 3/4-1 tsp with the water change (depends - it isn't always exactly 50%).
<This sounds good. I'd keep up with the water changes. Keep the water quality as stable as possible. Ease up a little on the Epsom salt. For two gallons, you want to have 1.5 tsp total in the water overall, including taking into account any evaporation. When the water evaporates, the salt does not, if that makes sense. So, since you are changing water every day, ok, adding another 3/4 tsp is probably ok. I'd say 1/2 tsp would be better.)
For 4 days, I treated with Furan (following those directions) and using the advice found on WWM, took a packet, diluted it by 10 cups of water and put in 2 cups as the ratio.
<This is fine.>
It looked kind of weak to me, but I was afraid to add more to such a small tank. Chip seems to perk up after the water changes with the salt. He can't see well, so I have been unplugging the aquarium to feed him - either flake food or brine shrimp.
<You might try some antibacterial food, such as Jungle antibacterial. Also, it is far better for the medication to seem too weak than to be too strong. You will help him heal much more with good water quality than anything else you can buy, including antibiotics. There is a time and place for medication, and this is one of them, but he needs good, clean water to have a fighting chance. You did the directions, and did just fine. The antibacterial food will help, as it will help him also from the inside out, especially since he is eating.>
Bloodworms are too small.
<Really?? The ones I buy frozen that my Bettas love are way larger than Brine shrimp.>
He is eating, but getting weaker as you can imagine.
<Very good that he is eating. Just keep up the clean, stable water.>
The swelling in his left eye is enormous and not going down.
<Patience. That is about all you can do at this point. Patience, and clean, stable water.>
He's resting a lot, but hanging in there. Was the Furan too weak?
<Most like, it was not too weak.>
Is there anything else I can do?
<Time and patience. Water changes. Epsom Salts. Try the antibacterial food. Other than that, you are doing great.>
Tank readings are 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites and 5 nitrates and pH of 8, which is what it has always been since that's the local water source.
<Are you using a dechlorinator? You might try something like Prime if you aren't. It is really good stuff.>
Tank temperature is constant 75 degrees, but a usually wait an hour after the water change before returning him so the water warms up.
<You might try bringing the water up to about 78-80 degrees, slowly over 24 hours. Bettas like it a bit warmer than 75 degrees, and it will help him fight the infection.>
Thanks,
<Anytime. And get the spacebar on your keyboard looked at ;-). It seems to be sticking.>
Asa
<Andrea>

3 spot Gourami w/ pop-eye; not enough useful information, poor grammar, etc... 7/28/07
Hi crew
<Hello there, Jorie here today.>
i

...was looking at my fish today and I

saw my 3 spot Gourami as
<with?>
...pop eye with blood at the bottom of the eye.
is
<Is>
...there anything I

...can do?
What is happening none of my other fish are all fine

<OK, first off, when you write us, please take a few additional moments to use proper grammar, capitalization, sentence case, etc. Since your query was so short, I fixed it to make it readable (we do publish our responses to queries on the Daily FAQs site - see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/daily_faqs3.htm and in order to make the Q&As understandable to all, we do request that our writers comply with these requests: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/faqstips.htm
More to the point, now: I need a lot more information to be able to help you here. Facts like how large your tank is, how long it has been setup, what type of filtration is used, what livestock you have, water temperature, pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate readings, water change schedule, etc. are all necessary information. Generally speaking, what I can tell you is that pop eye is caused by poor water quality, so do check your water parameters with a quality liquid reagent test kit. I suggest isolating the sick fish into its own hospital tank (filtered and cycled; as to the latter, use water from the main tank so as not to shock the ill fish's system) and treating with Epsom salt (1 tsp. per 5 gallons of H20) and pristine water conditions. I'm betting your tank has a harmful, if not lethal buildup of toxins which are causing your problems. The Gourami may just be the first fish to exhibit symptoms, but if the water quality's poor, the others will soon follow suit...
I can give you better/more specific suggestions if you give me the information I've requested above...
Best regards,
Jorie>
thankyou
<Thank you!>

Re: 3-spot Gourami w/ pop-eye; still not much useful info...recommend reading, increasing water changes - 08/05/07
Hi Jorie
<Hi again; sorry for the delay in responding, I've been traveling around a bit and haven't had much time to check in here...>
Ok, my tank is 5ft by 4ft
<In order to calculate the volume, I need the depth measurement as well; it does sound like this is a good sized aquarium, though.>
...and it has been set up for 4yrs now.
<Great.>
I have never had this problem before.
<Sometimes issues are cumulative...>
I have one catfish, 4 barbs and the others are all types of tetras.
<It would be helpful to know the species of each here.>
And I have fresh weeds in the tank
<Again, species?>
The water gets changed every 3 months
<Ideally, once a tank has established its nitrogen cycle, you should be performing a 10-20% water change every week or two (this depends on how heavily stocked the tank is, how good the filtration is, how messy the species of fish you have are, etc.; without more information, it's impossible for me to make a more specific recommendation.)>
...and the temperature is 82
<A bit high, but so long as it is stable, should be OK.>
...the pH and ammonia are good
<Useless info. I can't tell you what's an ideal pH for your tank, as I don't know really what you are keeping. As for ammonia, it should be at zero, as should nitrite levels.>
...nitrate is a bit low; could this be the problem and if so how do I change it?
<I think you are confused. As far as nitrates go, the lower the better; as high as 20 ppm is acceptable, but more towards zero is ideal. Do read here for info. on cycling a tank: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm
Also, I recommend getting a copy of David E. Boruchowitz's "Simple Guide to the Freshwater Aquarium" - it's a very comprehensive, clear book geared towards beginners. I know you have had your tank for several years now, but you don't seem to have a good grasp on Fishkeeping 101, which you and your fish could very much benefit from.
Also browse here for many helpful articles on freshwater fishkeeping: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwsetupindex.htm >
Thanks
<I don't know how much I've helped. Again, Popeye is generally caused by poor environmental conditions. As recommend before, I would isolate this fish into a cycled, heated, filtered aquarium and treat with clean water and Epsom salt. Aside from that, the best thing you can do for your critters is read and learn...
Best wishes, Jorie>

Cory With Popeye - 03/20/07
Please help me, My favorite fish is my Corydoras catfish. He recently came down with Popeye. I am not sure what type of treatment I can use for him. I've been reading online, but most of the advice is for other fish and not Cory's. I don't know their tolerance to meds. He's 7 years old. I did about a 30% water change last night. He's in a 150 gallon freshwater planted aquarium. The water is in good condition and I am not sure if he poked his eye, or what exactly happened. What would you suggest I do? I need help ASAP. I'm 25 and love fish. I know some people must think I'm nuts, but this little guy is my buddy and he needs to live.
Please, can you give me some advice? Thank you. Gina
<Place the sick fish in a clean hospital tank and treat with Metronidazole and Nitrofuranace.-Chuck.>

Re: Cory Cat With Popeye II 3/21/07
Okay, Where do I get that?
< Local fish store or online.>
Is there a certain brand?
< Brand type is unimportant.>
My QT tank isn't cycled.
Should I take water from the main tank and place him in it with that? Please,
suggestions. Thank you.
< Take 50% of the water from the main tank and don't worry about the hospital tank being cycled. All you need is a heater and an airstone. Place the fish in the hospital tank with 50% new treated water. Place the fish in the tank with the medication. Do a 50% water change every day and replace with new treated water. The medications would probably kill any biological filtration and that is why an airstone is needed. After three treatments you should start to see some results.-Chuck>

Re: Help help help. Corydoras with Popeye....this fish is 7 years old. Medication Not Recommended 3/22/07
Hi Chuck. This is concerning my Cory catfish. He has Popeye. You recommended this treatment Metronidazole and Nitrofuranace. I was not able to find this at my LFS. I asked for a brand name because that is all they carry. I have Petsmart and Petco here. They do not, at least mine, do not carry that. I looked.
So, I opted out and bought Maracyn. Do you think that this will help? I hope so. I love my little Cory. Let me know. Thank you. Gina
<Your fish has a real problem. The medications I recommend are what work best for me. I don't think the medication you have purchased will be as effective.
I believe I said that you may need to look online for these medications. Drsfostersmith.com has both of these in stock and can ship out overnight if needed. Typically these large chain stores don't carry alot of medications.-Chuck.>

Betta and Popeye... 3/13/07
Hi there,
<Hello Megan, Brandon with you tonight.>
I've recently setup a 3 gallon eclipse system with a Betta and a couple live plants.
<This is a very small volume, easy for things to get quickly out of hand. I would opt for a larger system sometime in the near future.>
It's been going great for almost 3 weeks now, I've done water changes each week (1 gallon or so), and when I last tested the water (last week), there was virtually no ammonia or nitrites/nitrates.
<Virtually is not quite the same as 0. A healthy aquarium has NO ammonia or nitrites.>
I have a heater and keep the tank around 80 degrees (although the heater I added seems a bit wonky in this little tank, and it can vary from 75-80).
<This is because of the size of the tank. As I mentioned before, get a bigger tank.>
I just went out of town for 4 days, with the Betta being fed by a friend on day 1 and 2, no food on day 3, and I fed him when I got home on day 4. When I got home, I immediately noticed he has what I'm assuming has to be pop eye (and temp was down to 75).
<Likely related.>
It's worse in one eye than the other, but appears to be in both. The eye is noticeably bulging out, and there are white rings around each eye. Other than that, he seems fine and is eating.
Researching your site, I see suggestions for Epsom salt, Nitrofurazone, and Metronidazole, and am not sure which to try. I was going to try the Epsom salts first, since that seems like the least obtrusive and most natural approach (and although I think this is pop eye, I'm certainly no expert and maybe it's just really irritated). My question is, if you recommend using the Epsom Salt first, how long should I let it try and work before resorting to something else?
<The Epsom Salt should work. I would get the temp back up to, and CONSTANTLY in the mid eighties, and use the Epsom Salt. A little less than the half teaspoon. Give it about three weeks.>
Also, according to what I read here, it sounds like about a 1/2 tbsp would be the right amount to add for a 3 gallon tank?
<A little less than this amount.>
And that won't harm my plants or bio filter, right?
<Nope. Might actually help the plants as they require Manganese.>
Then, at what point should I then try one of the other medications?
<You shouldn’t need to. Stable environmental conditions, NO ammonia OR nitrite, and the Epsom Salt.>
And which of the two, between Nitrofurazone or Metronidazole?
<Please see above. These two medications are likely to harm your bio filter.>
I also do not have a quarantine tank, and don't want to harm my bio filter or plants. How long is the usual treatment with those medications?
<There should be a recommendation on the back of the bottle. At a guess I would say two weeks.>
Would it be ok to put him in a bowl or jar for 1 or 2 days with the medication, and then move him back to his regular tank, or would I be better off just adding the medicine to his main tank?
<Honestly, I would wait until the B. splendens was better, and then go to Wal-Mart, buy a 10 gallon tank with a florescent hood, and an appropriate power filter, as well as some water conditioner such as stress coat. I would also ensure that I had an appropriate heater for this volume. My next step would be to go home proceed to set up and fill the 10 gallon with conditioned water, and allow it to heat to an appropriate temperature. The next day, I would cut a section out of the filter in the old tank, and place it in the new filter. I would then transfer the three gallon’s occupants to the 10 gallon. This is a rather inexpensive way to keep your fish happy and disease free.>
Thanks for the help!
<You are welcome, and good luck! Brandon.>
Megan

Popeye 12/12/06
Hello Crew,
<<Hello, Geezer. Tom here.>>
I just noticed my female swordtail's left eye is almost "popping" out of her head. What could cause this?
<<Bacterial infection, typically, but there are a number of others…>>
There are no noticeable sharp edges on any of the rocks that are in the aquarium... could her male partner have hurt her? They chase each other quite a bit.
<<A possibility but the “bulging” is more likely the result of infection than due to the possible trauma (injury). Though they “chase” one another, it’s not likely, as it would be in other cases of more aggressive fish, that the eye was an actual target of attack. Does happen unfortunately, though.>>
What could I do to cure her problem? Her right eye is fine.
<<Isolate her, if possible, and treat with Furanace or Kanamycin. Please understand that this “assumes” a bacterial infection. “Popeye” falls into one of those very “gray” areas that’s very difficult to pinpoint in terms of the root problem. In human terms, it’s the equivalent of trying to treat someone because he/she sneezed. We start with a “premise” and go from there.>>
Thanks!
<<You’re welcome and, I hope this helps. Tom>>

Popeye, Goldfish - 07/26/06
Hi.
<<Hello, Angie. Tom here.>>
We have a ten gallon tank with a filtration box and an oxygen pump fitted with two tubes. In this tank we have three goldfish. Will give you their approx. sizes of their bodies, not including tails: a potbellied Ryukin 3.2"; black moor 3.2"; and telescope eyed probably Yosakin 2".
<<First, the part you don't want to hear...your tank is far too small for these fish. The part you won't believe - or, at least, want to believe - is that they need to be in a tank in the 45+ gallon range. I'll, hopefully, clarify this as we continue.>>
After initial parasitic treatment for a white cyst on the black moor; the smaller Yosakin fish named Dean started to lay at the bottom. Tried aqua salt...nothing...then his eye began to swell. After calling every major fish store in town, and trying all recommended products and their subsequent protocols i.e.; Maracyn; t.c. Tetracycline; melafix - then melafix/PimaFix cocktail (currently on day 2 of this treatment). Dean's eye is bigger than ever.
<<Did anyone discuss water conditions with you? Unless the eye has swollen due to trauma (injury), the very first culprits I'd suspect are poor water conditions and/or overcrowding. A 10-gallon tank isn't large enough to support even one of these fish from either a qualitative or, quantitative, standpoint. Goldfish produce relatively large amounts of ammonia either through waste products or breathing. (Yep, breathing!) They excrete ammonia through their gills in order to rid their bodies of this toxin. A double whammy, if you will. Tie this in with the fact that they are particularly sloppy eaters or, at least lousy scavengers, and you've got a "triple play" on your hands. Might sound like I'm being glib but I'm deadly serious. So, what to do? Large living quarters and heavier filtration. Come as close to, if not right on, the same level of dilution of toxins in their home as they would enjoy in nature.>>
Poor little guy, he eats well and grabs food like mad during feeding times. I keep promising him we're going to do whatever we have to get him well. Nothing is working. His eye has now even sprouted more blood vessels to keep up with the rapid growth. It also appears the black moor still has parasitic feces. I really don't want to add anything else to the tank until Dean is better. Is there any hope of him recovering...how would I know if he's had enough and whether I should have him euthanized.
<<No way do I give up hope on a fish with a healthy appetite! Unfortunately, I can only supply you with my best advice which is to get your pets into an appropriate-sized aquarium with an equally appropriate filtering system. I won't blow smoke at you and tell you this will save Dean. I wish I could. I will tell you, however, that you will have done as much for them (and more) than medicating the bejeebers out of them has done thus far.>>
This has been real traumatic for us all as we suspect his suffering must be great; has been going on for almost two months.
<>
Thank you so much for your time and compassion.
Angie S.
<<If you wouldn't mind, I'd like to know how things turn out. My best to you all. Tom>>

Re: Popeye - 07/26/06
Tom,
<<Hi, again, Angie.>>
Thanks so much for your considerate and well thought out reply. No, nobody seemed concerned with tank size when I mentioned it. But was starting to suspect it by now. We change the water at least once a week, due to the murky nature. Finally took the substrate out for hoping that might help.
<<Then you've seen, firsthand, what I've described. For what it's worth, I'm glad. No doubt there are many who think we're concocting some type of hoax where this topic is concerned. I assure you, as you are now aware, we're in earnest.>>
A 45 gallon tank, though???... Oh boy. I never wanted fish in the first place; however bought this tank after my daughter bought the orange Ryukin and a little bowl to take to college! Oh...the fish never stepped foot in the dorm, daughter said it was too noisy.
<<The dorm or, the fish? :)>>
Holy Mackerel! What if I buy this big ole' tank and it breaks??
<<Not trying to help you spend your money, Angie, but you might research acrylic aquariums if breakage is truly a concern. Acrylic is not without disadvantages, cost being one of them, but it does have distinct advantages over glass that may interest you.>>
Seriously, though - I guess I'll get it. It'll be worth it to see Dean happy.
<<If you have any further questions, we'll be here, Angie.>>
Angie
<<Tom>>

Flowerhorn With Stubborn Popeye 7/25/06
Hi.. a pleasant day once again to you. Its me again, I consulted you before about the problem of my Flowerhorn. If you still remember, my fish has an internal infection and pop left eye. Well, I followed your advice. I apply the proper medication for my fish. But it seems he's not feeling better. He even got worse because his right eye got infected too and now his eyes both popping out and both are turning white. I am really worried because he's also not eating for days already. I think I've done everything to help him but I still want to know and try if there is anything else I can do to save him. Aside from giving him Nitrofuranace and Metronidazole and water changes, is there any other ways to help him get well or make him eat again. I am afraid to ask this but .. will my fish die?
<This disease can be fatal.>
What do you think is the percent for his survival?
< The key to a complete recovery is early detection and early treatment. Something has stressed your fish to the point that he is susceptible to this disease. It could be food, sanitation, temperature and even tankmates. You need to find out what had changed before he got sick. You could try to add some rock salt to the tank too. About a teaspoon per 5 gallons would be worth a try.>
I hope he'll gets better,.. because he is my beloved pet.. hope you help me again. Thanks in advance and for your time going through my letter. good day. RHEA from Philippines.
< These medications are usually pretty effective if the disease is caught early. Keep the tank clean by vacuuming the gravel and cleaning the filter often.-Chuck>

Flowerhorn With Cloudy Popeyes 7/7/06
Hi, A pleasant day to you. Well I need your help once again. I wrote you about 2 weeks ago about my flower horn with a case of pop eye. My two year old flower horn has his left eye bulge out before. It really grew big and his eyes turn whitish outside. Well I followed your advice to do a water change and put Metronidazole in the water. My concern now, is that his right eye is now slowly turning whitish just like what happen to his left eye. I am really worried that his right eye will suffer like his left eye. What should I do to stop or prevent this from happening?
<When the fishes eyes protrude they seem to get in the way and bump into everything and get infected. A treatment of Kanamycin of Nitrofuranace should get rid of the whit cloudy eyes.>
Pls help him. Will my fish will lose his eyes?
< If not treated the infection could render him blind.>
I don't want him to lose both his eyes so please, please help me. What best medicine should I give him?
<The above medications should get rid of the white and may have some effect on the Popeye too.>
Before I forget, his appetite is still poor. He hardly eats. Again thank you for your time in going through my letter. I am hoping for your help and response again. Thanks and good day. Rhea- Manila
< When the eyes get better the appetite should bet better too. Don't over feed when the fish is not feeling well and hardly eating.-Chuck>

Oscar fish eye split open - 06/22/2006
<<Hi. Tom here.>>
I have two Oscar fish in my tank, but only one developed pop eye disease.
<<"Pop eye" is not really a disease. It's a symptom, generally, of a bacterial infection that causes fluid to build up behind the eye. It can be caused by a variety of situations including poor water conditions or injury. Unfortunately, an internal infection is usually pretty advanced by the time the outward symptom - the swollen eyes - are discovered. (If it affects only one eye, I would be suspicious of an injury. Do your pets get along okay?)>>
I went to my local fish store and was told to buy Melafix and follow the instructions on the bottle.
<<Melafix is moderately effective on open sores/ulcers. Metronidazole, for example, would be more effective for bacterial infections as would Oxytetracycline, among others.>>
At first it looked as if it was working, but the last 2-3 days I've noticed that his eye looks to be split opened.
<<Yipes! Sorry to hear about that!>>
I was wondering if that was the medicine working or, is my fish's eye going to fall off?
<<No, that was a case of the medicine "not" working. Your fish may not "lose" its eye but will certainly be blind in it.>>
And if so, is it possible for my fish to live with only one eye?
<<Absolutely, your fish can live a long life with sight in only one eye. Do a Google search on Blind Cave Tetras. These fish are born with normal eyes but flesh grows over these early on and they spend their entire lives totally blind. I don't pretend to know what "Evolution" had in mind but these fish get along very well this way. Tom>>

Silver Dollar with one cloudy eye 6/6/06
Hello Crew
<Jasmine>
One of my Silver Dollars (I have 5 in total) has one cloudy eye. Water seems to be fine (ammonia=0, nitrite=0, nitrate=10ppm).
Being on one eye only, what could be the cause? Is it bacterial or a result of an injury?
Thanks
Jasmine
<Most likely originally the latter, possibly secondarily the former... If this is just "new" I would hold off on actual "treatment"... In all likelihood it will cure of its own accord. Bob Fenner>

Community Tank With Bloat/Pop-Eye Issues 5/27/06
Hi there, You guys have been an awesome resource! And, it's time for another question from me. I have a 35g that's been set up since February with a Penguin 300 bio filter.
I have 1 White Tetra, 2 Pristella Tetras, 10 Harlequin Rasboras, 10 Neon Tetras, 3 Black Mollies (1M,2F), 3 Platies (1M,2F), 1 Pleco and 1 Gold Snail.
I do water changes every 2nd week of about 25-30%, but my last couple changes have been closer to 50% to try and combat my problem. Ammonia is 0, Nitrites are 0. I don't know the pH or Nitrates (no test kits yet...just ordered them).
1 female platy seems to have dropsy or some type of bacterial infection. Her scales are sticking out a bit on one side, she doesn't seem to "poop" often, and I can see a white spot at her vent (constipated?).
1 female molly appears to have the same condition, but has a much larger belly.
1 rasbora has a little (white?) bump on his bottom lip and has been this way since Feb.
1 rasbora has a slightly bulging right eye.
With these different conditions, I don't know how I should treat the tank.
Any ideas/suggestions are welcome! Please help a novice trying to get this right. Thanks. Donna
< Sounds like bloat on the livebearers and pop-eye on the rasboras. The white lower lip thing is probably a benign growth. Do a 50% water change, vacuum the gravel and clean the filter. As few ways to go here. The bloat/pop-eye may be caused by the same organism. If it is bacterial then it may respond to a double dose of Nitrofuranace. This will affect the biological filtration and you may need to get it restarted. If it is a protozoan infection then either Clout or Metronidazole may work. The trouble with small fish like this is you probably only get one guess. If you guess wrong the fish is rarely around long enough for a second try. If it was me I would place the infected fish in a hospital tank and treat them with he double dose of Nitrofurazone and with the Metronidazole. Add a teaspoon of salt per 5 gallons to help get the medication into the fish.-Chuck>

Stubborn Popeye... not the Sailorman, Betta - 03/13/2006
Hi, I am having a dilemma with my Betta and if you could give me some advice I would appreciate it greatly. I have a five gallon Eclipse tank with three African Dwarf frogs and one Betta. My levels all seemed to be perfect and I did regular gravel vacuuming and partial water changes. And I use conditioned tap water. Last week I found my Betta listless and very inactive only to wake up one morning to see that we was developing Popeye. I immediately went to the pet store and bought Maracyn-Two because he had also stopped eating. I put him in quarantine with frequent partial water changes and a heater.
<Didn't have the heater before?>
It has been eight days on the medication and Epsom salt and he still has a white ring around his eye and is protruding slightly, his right hand side of his face still is swollen and he just started eating yesterday. Should I do another round of Maracyn-Two?
<Mmm, I would not>
And through all this my fros are fine at least! Thanks for reading my letter and if you have any suggestions for me I would be grateful.
Thanks, Mary Ann
<Just time going by at this point will show whether this fish, eye will heal more completely. Bob Fenner>

Pop Eye on Tetra 2/18/06
I have a 100 gallon tank with 2 magnum filters going on. One of my tetras has a bubbled eye. What do I do? I need help. I have put him by himself in a small
tank 10 gallon with half water which is 5 gallon water & did put that tablet fungus clear tank buddies. Do I have to add Epsom salt with it.?. Kindly
respond. thanks. Godfrey
< Treat the tank with the sick tetra with Metronidazole. The original tank may have elevated nitrate readings and so check the levels. They should be under 25 ppm although some fish like them lower.-Chuck>

Ram Now Has Popeye 2/18/06
Thanks for your quick response last week. I QT'd the fish and followed your advice with the Furanace. Unfortunately on day 3 of the treatment I
noticed that the expiration date on the medication was 2 YEARS ago... the ram hadn't really eaten in 4 days and I didn't think he would
survive another 4 days with new meds so I put him back in the main tank where he was eating and happy to be with his mate. His nares got better,
I kept up with water changes and thought all was well. (My ammonia, nitrites are 0, less than 10 nitrates, water is RO with RO Right mixed
to keep a lower pH and softness...)
Yesterday he developed Popeye. I QT'd him again, added Stresscoat and Epsom salts to his tank. (His QT tank water is all at 0 as above). I
see no symptoms of anything wrong, just one eye bulging out. The other eye may be swollen a bit, but not much I can tell. Is there anything I
can do to help this poor fish? I just can't figure out what is wrong with him... is there an all purpose antibiotic I should try on him?
Thanks again, Cathy G Oh, the expired meds all came out of a fresh shipment of meds to the
store - somebody needs to get a better supplier me thinks...
< The Popeye is an internal bacterial infection behind the eye socket. Treat with Metronidazole as per the directions on the package.-Chuck>

Guppy with Popeye 2/1/06
Dear wet web media,
<Leslie>
 I have a Guppy that has had Popeye for approximately 2 weeks. We had some aggressive Serpae tetras at the time, and I assumed it was due to the nipping they were doing.
<Maybe>
Immediately upon noticing the condition, I moved him to a fish bowl I have. It was the best I could do for a QT tank. I treated him with Epsom salts per your instruction in the FAQ section of your website. The eye has improved some, and he has started to eat (he wouldn't eat at first). There was a red ring under his eye for about a week, which has gone away, but I have still left him in QT because the LFS told me that Popeye is sometimes caused by a parasite,
<Mmm, very rare actually. If one sided, a trauma or aggression almost always... if bilateral, typically environmental in cause>
which eventually comes out from behind the eye. If it was a parasite, I did not want that released into my main tank.
 Basically, it has been two weeks and his eye is still bulging. The swelling has not gone down much. Should I treat him with something else, or should I just let him be.
 Thanks,
 Leslie
<Mmm, some expense involved, but antibiotics can be attempted... Covered on WWM... search under Popeye, Freshwater. Bob Fenner>

Betta With Pop Eye 12/24/05
Hello: A week and a half ago our Betta showed the first signs of Popeye. At the store I was told to use Melafix, but the problem just got worse. Now we are trying Maracyn Two in combination with Aquarium Salt and Cycle. We moved the fish into a hospital tank and changed the water every other day. The fish seems friskier and is eating again, but the eye condition didn't improve. Today is day four of Maracyn treatment; my question is for how long should I keep it on Maracyn and, eventually, what other medication would you recommend?
Thanks for your help! Roxanne B.
< The water changes are good. Treat with Nitrofurazone or Metronidazole instead. Both of these will work on anaerobic bacteria that are behind the eye pushing the eye out.-Chuck>

Kribs And Exophthalmia - 11/25/2005
One week ago, I noticed my female Kribensis eyes were popped out of her head. She lived for about 2 weeks and then died. Two days ago, I noticed that my male Kribensis had the same problem. I need to understand what is happening. Thank you, -Sherry
<Thanks for correcting and re-sending your question, Sherry. Exophthalmia, or "pop-eye", is usually caused by poor water conditions. First, you need to test your water for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate; ammonia and nitrite should be ZERO, nitrate less than 20ppm. If any of these are higher, you'll need to do water changes to get them back to normal. Also, please read here for more information: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwpopeyefaqs.htm . One to two tablespoons of Epsom salt per ten gallons of water may help a great deal, once the water quality is back to good. Wishing you well, -Sabrina>

Tiger Barbs And Exophthalmia - 11/15/2005
Hey guys,
<And gals - Sabrina with you today.>
I have a question about what seems to be an eye infection in one of my tiger barbs.
<Alright.>
I have a lightly stocked 72 gallon planted community tank. My parameters are all good, pH 6.8-7, nitrites, ammonia all 0.
<Great. Nitrate?>
Recently one of tiger barbs developed a cloudy, popped out eye. Only one eye developed this. I've had them for a couple of years with no problems, and as no other fish, tigers or others, displayed this, I decided to watch and see if it was a sign of natural age related disease.
<It actually may be injury-related.>
I do weekly or biweekly water changes and since my parameters are fine I do not think it is a water quality issue.
<Check those nitrate readings. This can impact exophthalmia/pop-eye.>
If it was, then other fish would display signs of stress as well most likely. I just noticed that the barb died and a second one developed the same popped out, clouded eye (though it isn't as developed yet). Otherwise it also seems fine, as do all of the other fish. Does anyone have experience with this? How would I definitely diagnose and treat it?
<I would first suspect injury, here.... Fish have a natural tendency to bite at eyes. Tiger barbs are nippy animals. Try watching them for a bit and see if you see any aggressive behaviour among them, or if perhaps one fish specifically is causing the others extraordinary amounts of stress.>
All help is appreciated. At this point I wouldn't bother quarantining because if it has been transmitted than most likely it is in the water already, unless the treatments would kill the plants.
<Mm, better to pull the affected fish.... Even if it is a bacterial infection of some sort, it may not have transmitted to other fish as yet. Furthermore, if the animal HAS been injured, it will give it time to recover.>
Thanks, -Eric
<Wishing you well, -Sabrina>

Tiger Barbs And Exophthalmia - II - 11/16/2005
Thanks for the advice. I will watch and see if there is an overly aggressive behavior.
<Excellent.>
I haven't tested for nitrates because all of the test kits I have only include nitrite tests so I was under the impression that I can only infer my nitrates from my nitrites.
<The two are actually quite different. One can be quite low, the other quite high.... do please try to find a test kit for nitrate and check on it.>
Eric
<Wishing you well, -Sabrina>

Popeye in an Older Betta - 11/14/2005
Good Evening...
I have been reading your chat forum.. Kudos on the GREAT JOB you do answering all who have questions!
<Thank you kindly for the kudos!>
I too have the "betta" obsession.... 8 at my worksite, and 7 at home.
<Wow.>
Two days ago, however, my oldest, has developed a red spot at the right front lower jaw, and yesterday I noted he is developing "Popeye" (left side). "Rupert" has been with me for 22 months now, and has not grown much since I've had him (leading me to believe he was fairly close to adult at purchase).
<Entirely possible. They don't exactly make 'em like they used to; a couple of years is about "right", unfortunately.>
All "the boys" have their tanks cleaned weekly -- their water is "well water" (brought from home). I have added one of the "Melaleuca" compounds to the tank,

along with some "slime coat", but don't seem to see any change in his afflictions.

Am I expecting to see change too early? Is "Rupert" perhaps too old to help?
<Mm, not necessarily.... I would generally try to see to it that this fish has optimal water conditions, appropriate temperature....>
Since you haven't found the Melaleuca compounds to be of much use, should I change his tank again and try Epsom Salt ?
<Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate) may in fact help reduce the swelling of the "Popeye"/exophthalmia.>
I've not tried any of the "medicated" treatments offered at PetSmart or PetCo (locals here) as I did not see any mention of Popeye or red spot on the "usage" labels....
<If anything at all, you could consider a broad-spectrum antibiotic, but I'm not sure I would in this case; at least, perhaps not just yet.>
If I should be treating with OTC medications, should I use Epsom Salt as well?

Thank you in advance for your assistance in helping my little buddy.... Best Regards from the "PhishPharm"..... ....Swim On!!!...
<Glad to (hopefully) be of some service.... Wishing you well, -Sabrina>

Treating Popeye Without Olive Oil 11/4/05
Hi, I recently purchased these two medications. I have had several fish come down with pop-eye and I was advised from the folks at wetwebmedia.com to use Metronidazole and that I could combine it with Focus to better target the fish. I have a couple of questions that deal with the administration of these medications.
1. The directions on the Metronidazole say that you can add it to the tank water system to medicate the fish. I have an 800 gallon system, so it would take quite a bit to treat the whole system for the time suggested. So if I put the infected fish in a smaller tank, are they just going to get re-infected once they are returned to the big system?
< Popeye and bloat are internal bacterial infections caused by stress. It could be dirty water, water temp too high, a vitamin deficiency, etc... You need to find out what the problem is and correct it. Everybody keep their tanks differently so you will have to figure out what the problem is in the big tank and fix it. No matter how much medication you use on your fish, they will continue to become reinfected as long as the problem exists. A separate tank will help cure the fish because it makes it easier to treat them. But unless you have solved the tank problem you are right and they will continue to become infected.>
2. How do I combine the Metronidazole with the Focus and get the fish to eat it? I currently feed the fish thawed blood worms, brine, and Mysis shrimp. Thanks Nick
< Metronidazole quickly breaks down in the aquarium. The best way to medicate is to get the medication inside the fish with the food. I would crush the tablets into as powder and mix them with the food and Focus. Then feed it right away.-Chuck>

Cichlid With Popeye 9/17/05
Hi, guys, I desperately need help with a Popeye. My sajica has developed a Popeye within 2-3 hours. I isolated him in the q-tank that had aquarium/Epsom salt 1 tablespoon/5 gal. with a dose of Maracyn plus. A few days later I don't see any improvements in his condition. (Water is changed daily) Now his eye got cloudy as well. He doesn't eat anything so medicated foods are out of the question. I am not sure what else I can do. Would you have any suggestions Thank you,
< Treat with Nitrofurazone and Metronidazole in a hospital tank. Change 30% of the water while vacuuming the gravel in the main tank. Clean the filters too.-Chuck>

Oscars and Exophthalmus - 09/16/2005
Hello,
<Hi.>
I have a question I hope someone can help me with.
<Okay.>
I have a Tiger Oscar about 5-6 inches long, and it's left eye is pretty messed up. It started last week with a white mass of some sort collecting right behind the left eye and ever since then it has gotten worse. The white mass got larger and began pushing the left eye out. Now, there is still a large collection of sort behind the eye and it is also red, like I can see flesh or muscle coming out.
<Exophthalmus.... "pop-eye". Can find more here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/popeyefaqs.htm >
I have been doing water changes, testing the parameter and treating with Melafix, I thought it may have been Popeye.
<Melafix will not help/affect this ailment.>
I used this medicine before when my fish were acting very sickly and breathing very rapidly and it worked and brought it back around. He is still pretty active although he is swimming a little on it's right side. Does this sound like Popeye or could something else be wrong? What else can be done? Please help me! I cringe every time I look at him.
<Check your water quality. Maintain ammonia and nitrite at ZERO, nitrate less than 20ppm, and add Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate) to the water at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons. This should help with the swelling. You can re-dose this in a few days after a large water change.>
Desperate in Texas
<Please do take a look at those FAQs. Wishing you well, -Sabrina>

Flowerhorn, Exophthalmus - 09/10/2005
Hi,
<Hello.>
I have a Flower Horn called Y6 ( Breed : Red - monkey), about 1.5 years old. It's a beautiful fish and it likes to play with us. However, I found one of its eye has been expanded. But it is still red in colour and play with us as usual. What's wrong is it?
<Something has caused a fluid buildup behind the eye; perhaps physical trauma (very likely) or an infection. This is called Exophthalmus, or "pop-eye".
I bought a medicine called : Waterlife - OCTOZIN because I asked some people that in the fish store of Flower Horn.
<I would likely not use medicine for this condition. Instead, add Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate) to the tank at a rate of one tablespoon per five gallons. In a few days, you can do a water change and add Epsom again. This will help relieve the fluid buildup.>
I want to ask :
1) Will Y6 die easily?
<I doubt the fish will die. He looks to be in excellent condition aside from this problem. It is possible that he will lose the eye, and if he does, you might want to use an antibiotic like Nitrofurazone or Kanamycin to prevent infection - but even then, if he's in otherwise good shape, he'll probably pull through okay.>
2) What's the name of the disease?
<As above, this condition is called Exophthalmus. Any major swelling of the eye can be called this.>
3) How can I save him?
<Keep caring for him very well; keep his water quality perfect. Add the Epsom, and watch to see if it helps.>
P.S : I took 4 photos of Y6, hope you can reply me as soon as possible cause I love him very much, THANKS A LOT!!
<Thank you for the images, they are VERY well done and show his condition very well.>
Vienne from Hong Kong.
<Wishing Y6 a swift recovery, -Sabrina, from California, USA>

Pop Eye on a Silver Dollar 8/3/05
Hi, I am Janet. I have a 55 gal fresh with 10 white clouds, 4 black tetra, 2 spotted Cory cats, 2 dwarf gouramis, 1 blue magic dwarf gourami (the other died in this heyday I have been having) , one goldfish, one black moor, 2 scissortail rasbora and 2 six or seven year old Silver Dollars that were given to me by a friend when his wife died. They were her babies.
Hi Oh Silver came down with Popeye then a god awful case of dropsy. I put in Melafix for the seven day prescribed and Hi Oh didn't really improve much. I changed out 25% of the tank, put in Stress Coat and Stress Zyme and some Methylene Blue. Hi Oh looked bad yet. I went searching on the internet and found your site with salt treatments for these diseases. I didn't have Aquarium Salts but another site said Kosher Salt would do too. So I mixed up the salt (one gal to 4 teasp Kosher salt) popped Hi in and watched him for distress. After 3 min.s (of the 5, unless distressed) I thought he looked like he wanted out. So I put him in the tank. Next morning HE LOST ALL THE POPEYE AND MOST OF THE SWELLING!!
I did a test and found my nitrates were 160 so I did another water change out of nearly 50%. Put in Stress Coat and Stress Zyme and Meth blue. My test today shows PH 6.0, Ammonia 0ppm, Nitrite 0ppm and finally, Nitrate 0ppm. It seems Hi Oh is getting Popeye again and I think his pal, Long John Silver is too. Oh, I put in new carbon filters in case of something in the water affected the old new filters I had in.
Hi looks great other then that. A very small swelling on his cap (above his eyes/face), looks somewhat silver in most places, eating, swimming all about and with his buddy.
My question is should I start over and put the two in a hospital tank and treat with Melafix again or just do salt dips again? How many times can I salt dip a fish and at what frequency.... daily, every other day, ???? Salt seems to best work to bring down swelling. I have been fighting this for 3 weeks now and Hi is still here. He does sit stationary a bit crooked but he swims great. I think he can see yet out of his eyes. So far Long John is puffy in one eye.
This whole mess started with fish from PetSmart and putting their water in my tank. I didn't know not too since I read to do it in a dumb book, only to find out NEVER put water in another tank. I have NEVER tested water before so that is all new to me too but I desperately want to save the boys. Please help me : (
< The high nitrates are stressing your silver dollars. Keeping them down to under 25 ppm will be very beneficial. I have found that salt dose reduce the swelling and some fish do recover enough to be cured from this internal bacterial infection but just don't seem to be cured. I would recommend Metronidazole to treat the infected fish in a hospital tank so it won't affect the good bacteria needed to break down the fish waste.-Chuck>

Cricket my platy has Popeye 7/22/05
Hey crew,
<Jennifer>
I have a red female platy named Cricket who has developed Popeye. I am not sure why?
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/popeyefaqs.htm>
I test my water 2x a weeks and all is in the norm. I think she may have ran into something while I was trying to get my red male out of the tank.
<Possibly>
(he is small about 1 inch but very aggressive and picks relentlessly on my blue sail fin undetermined sex platy) Anyways deep tank, lots of hornwort and short net stick working against me in the battle to capture him
<A good idea to have, use two nets...>
and put him in his new 5 gallon tank. After he was out I noticed she was sitting under the bog wood where she stayed barely coming out for 3 days. I noticed while feeding her on the second day that her eyes where looking a bit strange. On the third day I took her out and put her in a 10g naked hospital tank, I started treating with Maracyn two since both eyes were swollen then on the third day I realized that the meds said expire 7-05!
<Mmm, don't let this throw you>
 So I changed 80% of the water and started the meds all over. She is now on her third day of the new Maracyn two treatments with no improvement it actually looks worse in one eye now.
I don't know what to do? After I finish the Maracyn treatments should I try Epsom salt?

Someone told me that they used JungleLabs fizz tabs for fungus and Popeye with success, should I try that?

She has still been eating but has not been active since the night I moved the male.
I really don't know what to do since I don't know what the cause is. I have two other adult platies in the main tank along with several (maybe 25) ranging in size from 1 and a half cm.s to a little over a half cm. All seem healthy including my three deformed fry.
Please help me!
I hate having to euthanize my fish.
Also after reading your FAQ section I see that Popeye can last for a very long time? Why is that?
<Latent damage to the eye/s... trapped gas at times>
Is it painful for the fish?
<Mmm, I don't know. Doesn't appear to be>
If it was because of a bacteria wouldn't she be getting better from the antibiotics and not worse?
<Not particularly... just as with human health, there are bacteria that are susceptible to some antibiotics, but not to all>
Please help, I get very frantic when my fish get ill, I am starting to be afraid to look at her for fear of seeing her eye burst or something, I really do not want her to suffer and will not let it get that far, so I am just trying to help her out as much as I can now.
BTW, today her water tested:
Nitrate- about 10
Nitrite - 0
pH - 7.5
Thanks in advance, I really hope she makes it!
<Me too. Bob Fenner>

Sorry I forgot to add the picture. It was taken with a camera phone so the quality is not great but it is fairly clear. This picture is from yesterday 8 days after the male was removed, today one eye looks a little worse.
Thanks again everyone
<Welcome. BobF>

POPEYE IS NOT JUST A SAILOR
Hello,
I apologize in advance if the problems that I am about to describe have been addressed in previous inquires, and understand if you cannot respond to this email. I have been experiencing problems with my male Betta for over two months now. It appears that he has severe Popeye, and a greyish discoloration near his head. He also developed fin/tail rot, but luckily I was able to treat it and it is clearing up nicely. I have searched for Popeye on your site, as well as discolorations and fungal and bacterial diseases, but could not find any information that seemed helpful in this situation.
Originally he was in a 1/2 gallon tank, with the temperature at an inconsistent temperature (it would fluctuate quite often and drastically, and I think the abrupt changes are what compromised his health.) After discovering that his eyes were blood red and protruding, along with the patchy spots near his head, I went and purchased a 2 1/2 gallon tank, have been doing full water changes weekly, and have been keeping the temperature constant at about 75 degrees.
I have been also alternating medications, trying to find something to treat his eyes, and have tried Maroxy, Maracyn, and Maracyn 2. Nothing has seemed to work. He appears fine, his appetite is great, and he is very active, although he has not made any bubble nests at all since he has been sick. I have not tested his water for pH, nitrates, etc. and think that may be the next step to see if there is something wrong with the water. I'm not sure what to try at this point, but would really like to get my Betta back to normal! I hate seeing him suffer!
Thank you,
Jade
< The internal bacterial infection behind the eyes can cause permanent blindness if not treated. Popeye can be treated early with Metronidazole and consistently clean warm water. Avoid extremes in temp and water chemistry.-Chuck>

Popeye--differentiating injury from bacteria
Hi Bob,
<Hello Angela>
You've given people lots of great advice and I think it's fantastic stuff. I've read through your FAQ's but am having a problem identifying the cause of my fish's pop-eye.
<Ahh!>
I have two fish (unidentified... my dad bought it) in a new 29 gallon tank. It has only been cycling for 8 days now. Ammonia is at 0, Nitrite at 0.25 ppm, and Nitrate at 5 ppm. pH is at 7.8 - 8.0 and temperature at 79 Fahrenheit.
<Okay... would have been better to not have the fish in a cycling system...>
One of the fish developed pop-eye slowly. The pop-eye is only on one eye, not both. I read in the FAQs that it's most likely injury related then.
<Yes>
However, the fish is not eating. Furthermore, it's developed cottonmouth. My sister says a black spot developed in her abdomen. I am worrying it is bacteria related, although it is only one eye that developed pop-eye. Furthermore, her buddy is doing well. He eats all the time and loves to swim around...so I am hoping it's an isolated injury.
<Me too>
I am not medicating right now, but have added some bio-support to boost the filter's bacteria to improve water quality. I also added some Aquarium Pharmaceutical's Melafix to the tank as well. The next day, she was doing much better. But by nightfall, she resorted to hiding behind a rock again.
<I would discontinue, not use the "Fix"... it may forestall or eliminate your nitrifying bacteria... perhaps the root cause, but definitely a contributing factor here (the lack of biological filtration)... and perhaps add a bit of salt...>
Can you please help me identify if the pop-eye is injury or bacteria related? And what steps should I take to curing it?
<Can't tell the cause here... very likely environmental primarily, bacterial perhaps secondarily... to cure? A bit of Epsom is all I would try>
I've read that pop-eye is not contagious,
<Depending on its cause/s>
but if it is caused by bacteria infection, then what can I do to improve the water quality to prevent other fish from becoming sick? Please help as she hasn't eaten for days!
Thanks so much, Angela
<You can do what you can to "speed up" the establishment of nitrification. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm and NOT do things that will cause more trouble... like adding "medicines", "herbal remedies"... DO feed sparingly, and NOT add more livestock... Do please learn what types of fish/es you have... as they have different needs, tolerances... Bob Fenner>

Oscar with Popeye
I Have an Oscar which appears to have Popeye. By the advise of the first Pet Store I treated the tank with a partial water change, aquarium salt and tetracycline tabs for six days....The fish still had Popeye. So by the advise of a second pet store I again treated the tank with a partial water change 50%, aquarium salt and penicillin every other day for three treatments. Still the fish has Popeye. what else can or should I do. I have had aquariums for 15 years or better and never had a fish with Popeye.
I would be appreciative of any advice. You can e-mail me at <Thank you for writing. Popeye (fancy name exophthalmia) is a hard condition to cure... when "one sided" (unilateral) the cause is typically "mechanical injury" (a bump in the night)... Treatments per se are not necessary... but does take a good long time for the bulging to subside (weeks to months). Keep the system clean, maintenance up and you should see improvement in a few weeks. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/popeyefaqs.htm and possibly the "Neotropical Cichlid FAQs" posted on WetWebMedia.com
Bob Fenner>
THANK YOU,
K. JACKSON

Re: Oscar with Popeye
Since I received your information on the subject of Popeye with my Oscar. I have kept a good watch on the tank and Oscar for any changes. My Oscar originally had her eye popping out and another bump on the upper back of the eye. Since I stopped treating the tank with antibiotics the bump has gone and another one has appeared her eye is still popping out and there is now blood in the eye chamber. What should I do if anything? And If there is no treatment will her eye eventually hemorrhage or will it go down. Any information you have will be helpful.
<Do your best to keep the system optimized and stable... and the fish fed with nutritious foods... This and patience is all that is needed, desired. The eye will improve or not otherwise. Bob Fenner>
Thank you,
Kelly

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