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FAQs on Freshwater Aquarium Set-up 1

Aquarists cause themselves tremendous problems through the common mistake of overcrowding their tanks. Here are some cramped Knifefishes in captivity.

Dying Fish in Freshwater System
>Hello and thank you for having a great forum to ask these kind of
questions.
>>Greetings, and you're quite welcome. Marina tonight.
>I hope that I provide everything that you need in order to guess what the problem might be. If, please let me know and I will
provide what I can. I am new to aquarium life and have not dealt much with fish. I thought that I had read all the important stuff, but there is a definite problem with my tank. I have a 29 gal tank, running 7.1 ph and 77F. I change the water every
three to four weeks, which is what I was instructed to do. I have been adding Stress Zyme weekly (1 tsp per 10 gal of H2O) and have added aquarium salt each water change, along with Amquel and AmmoLock. Since I live in an area where the water is pretty hard (lime) I have also been using a tap water conditioner.
>>Not sure what "conditioner" you could use that would address water hardness and subsequent alkalinity sufficiently. I live in an area with very hard water as well (it also passes through much limestone) and have found it's really best NOT to mess about with it.
>After about 6 months after setting up the tank, the tank was populated with 2 pairs of guppies, 2 tetras, 2 algae eaters (don't recall the actual species - max of 3 inches), 2 catfish (don't recall the species there either, max of 2 inches) and 2 fish I would like to say were common goldfish, but aren't.
>>Fancy goldies, maybe? Not exactly the "best" mix in the world, but it can certainly work. However, considering the size the goldies can attain, and the fact that they are rather infamous for being "dirty" fish (produce MUCH body slime, for one thing) I would have preferred to either see a species tank (only goldies) or no goldies at all. However, you have what you have, haven't you?
>I don't think I overstocked the tank, as the only the algae eaters were supposed to grow to 3 inches.
>>This is incorrect. Even the most short-bodied of fancy goldfish will attain an ultimate length of 6-8", and considering the girth of the animal means that using the "inches of fish/gallon" rule that I believe you've been "educated" about, you're well on your way to being overstocked as it is. Also, filtration...??? And, the tetras, cats and algae-eaters are probably NOT at all appreciative of this salt you're adding. The goldies are. Have you also measured salinity?
>About the 8th month, the fish started dying and although I have tested the water and all the readings are within limits, the deaths continue.
>>Sorry, mate. "Within limits" tells me very little. Also, you should know that using all of these water additives/conditioners can give you false readings, most specifically in the area of ammonia. This also just happens to be the most toxic of compounds you endeavor to convert with biological filtration.
>Guppies will not survive more than a few months. I thought that the problem was that fish just didn't live that long. Based on what I have seen, nothing is farther from the truth, guppies living 2-3 years (not months).
>>Indeed.
>Currently my tank has 1 algae eater, 1 catfish, 2 guppies (purchased last month), 2 tetras, and the goldfish. I had purchased 2 gouramis (spelling) and they died after about 1 month. I purchased 2 glass fish and they died after about 4
months.
>>Two species that are not at ALL appreciative of salt! Now you know. Also, you will not do well to continue replacing the fish that die.
>So far, nothing has really been surviving and yet all the tests show that the water is fine. I thought that the deaths might be attributed to predation, but after watching the fish for a day, while one of the algae eaters died, I noticed that none of the fish really bothered it and other than the tetras chasing each other ONCE in a while, there is no sign of hostilities between the fish...making this whole situation even worse, as I can't determine a cause.
>>Neither can I without specific readings and make of test kit.
>I know that this isn't much information to me, does it lend anything that you have seen that you might suspect that I can check out? Is there some tests that I can run to check if there is something in the water that I am missing? Looking at the fish, I don't see any physical problems. I took a couple of fish to PetCo and asked them, they sampled the water and said it was fine.
>>A word to the wise--find and frequent a QUALITY local fish shop. Petco and the like rarely qualify as such. Also, do know that more likely than not they're using very cheap test kits as well. Again, "fine" doesn't give us specific readings, and since you've been using these products you (and they, even though they should know this) are possibly getting false readings. Check for "Nessler's reagent". Also, if salinity isn't being tested, stop adding salt.
>I guess that the only other cause could be over-feeding and so I have resorted to feeding the fish a very small pinch of food, then adding more as it is eaten up until they show no interest in the food, usually about 2-3 minutes in the feeding.
>>This is the proper method of feeding.
>So, I think that might leave over-feeding out, unless the fish are gorging themselves and I haven't learned to stop before that point. Any help or a starting place would be most helpful. I started this endeavor as a way to relax, other than petting my dog, but it is only adding to the frustration, and has basically become a money pit...all the best looking fish dying shortly after being introduced into the tank.
>>Slow is the way to go, and if you're vacuuming the gravel when you do these water changes it may also cause trouble. Not knowing what kind of filtration you're using, substrate (especially if utilizing undergravel filtration), sizing of filtration units, as well as test results and kit make leaves me with little to go on.
>>ADDENDUM<<
>Duh. Dummy here. After reading some more, it occurred to me that it is NOT lime that is in my water...it is alkaline.
>>No, lime MAKES water alkaline, alkaline being BOTH high pH AND well-buffered (meaning it resists change in pH). In any event, DON'T mess about with it, as the pH WILL bounce, and if you're doing this, this could explain the deaths quite neatly.
>The only thing that I could recall was that we use CLR to remove the scales from our facets, etc., and so the first thing to pop in my head was LIME. Sorry...I guess LIME in water would EAT anything in the water and hence kill whatever is in the water.
>>Incorrect.
>Still reading through the TONS of things that aren't really part of my problem, but are good to know. It is GREAT having a resource that consistently answers the questions the same way. My experiences with the local store vary depending on who I talk to and what they are interested in.
>>Yes, many decent LFS's (local fish shops) have people who have areas of specialty. For instance, the LFS I started out with had an African Cichlid specialist, a South American/New Word cichlid specialist, a discus and planted system specialist, koi and goldfish specialists, salt specialists, and reef specialists. We rarely crossed over, and would often send customers home to return when the appropriate employee was working.
>Since I have you online....SHOULD all these fish happen to die, which I hope won't happen, can you recommend a good mix of fish that will live throughout the tank, not just bottom and top?
>>Well, eventually they WILL all die, but hopefully they'll have a chance at living out their natural lifespans. What's eating at me right now is that I'm interpreting your scant information to mean that you've been messing about with the pH, and this WILL kill the fishes quickly. Almost all freshwater fish, and I think I can safely assume that ALL the fish you're trying to keep are farm-bred. This means that they're well adjusted to varying pH values, and once properly acclimated their water quality *should* be sufficient. However, you seem to be adding and fiddling so much that I would be hard-pressed to suggest suitable species without basically starting from scratch. Also, the filtration thing again. Try sending me the information I've outlined above, and let's see if we can start from there. Also, try making weekly water changes of 25% withOUT adding salt.
>I did see the note about changing the water every two weeks or so...that will make a big difference, as the store people stated 25% once a month. Iley Pullen
>>Indeed, however, in a PROPERLY stocked and setup system, monthly can do just fine. In the meantime, let's slow down, use NOTHING other than dechlorinator (sodium thiosulfate) for the water changes, NO salt, NO other additives, and send the actual test readings, etc. Also, go to our freshwater aquarium article section, and start with setup tips for beginners. I think we need to get you back to basics, as this really shouldn't be so complicated. Marina

Heater
Over the last month I have bought 4 gold barbs and 2 checkered. I was told by the aquatic centre that I didn't need a heater in the water as long as my house was centrally heated in winter.

However I have been told by someone else that they need to have a heater.

They seem very happy at the moment but I am aware that the weather has been warm.
<yes, this is why indeed... a heater would serve you and the fish well during the colder months>
They are kept in my living room away from drafts. The tank is plastic and so I was told can't take a heater.
<Plastic? how large is this aquarium? Does it have a filtration system? If not I would also invest in a 10 gallon aquarium (glass) which are about 10 dollars for just the glass, and then a bio-wheel filter, with a heater>
Does this mean I need to buy a new aquarium and heater or will they survive?
<good luck, IanB>

Small Aquarium Stocking
Hi,
I have a question about using a small fish tank in a college dorm room. I want to have a small aquarium, and I would prefer to have a shark living in it. Are there any specific shark varieties that would do well in a small aquarium? What size aquarium would be better a one gallon or a 2 and a half gallon tank. I am not looking to set up a huge aquarium, but I would like to know if there is any kind of shark I can get that would do well in this small of a tank. Also, I know a pleco would be much too large of a fish to have in the tank, but would there be any other algae-eater that you could recommend? Thank you so very much! Jammi
<Hello Jammi, unfortunately I am not aware of any shark or shark looking fish that would live in a tank that small. I would definitely go with the 2.5gal over the 1gal, the bigger the better. The Otocinclus is a great algae eater that stays small. http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/otocinclusart.htm
You might want to look into the Eclipse systems, they are compact, good looking, and the filtration is in the hood. I have a 3gal Eclipse with a Female Betta, Otocinclus, and some plants (Java Moss on a rock, and Anubias). As far as fish go, you might consider some (3) small Tetras (maybe Neons or Cardinals). The White Cloud Mountain Minnow is also an excellent small fish. Or maybe fancy guppies? Check out fishbase.org for information on all of the above fish. The picture of the White Cloud on fishbase does not do them justice. I hope this helps to get you started, Best Regards, Gage>

First Tank Woes
>Hi, I'm new to this so please bare with me.
>>We were all new at one time or another, eh?  Marina to help you tonight.
>I have just purchased my first aquarium, I have:
9 neon tetras
2 tiger barbs
1 silver shark  [Marina's note, probably Bala shark-barb]
1 redtail shark
2 swordtails
1 catfish
2 angel fish
2 platties
2 rocks
Real plants
I set up the aquarium filled with water and left it for about 5 days and was told by my local aquarium shop that is was now ok to add fish, and I did.
>>Oh my goodness, they had you set up the tank empty, and then sold you ALL these fish at ONCE, yes?  I'm hoping it's a 150 gallon tank..
>A day later one of my tetras had died, this concerned me so I check the water and this is what I found: pH about 9
>>Zoinks!
kh 20
gh 14
>>You're testing your hardness??  No need, my friend.  All of these fish are accustomed to varying hardness, but a pH of 9..WOWEE, that's Lake Victoria hard!
>no2 50
n03 200
>>Well, I'm surprised you're getting nitrite and nitrate readings so quickly, unless your source water already has them present.  Do test the source water for nitrogenous wastes, pH, but don't worry about the hardness.
>I left a bucket of tap water overnight and did a water change and the levels have improved slightly.
>>It would be nice to know the percentage of tank volume, neither piece of information appears to be available.
pH 8.4
kh 20
gh 18 (higher)
no2 10
no3 75
>Do you think all my fish will die?  I feel so guilty as I have now been told I possibly put them in the tank too early!
>>Balderdash and POPPYCOCK!  What has happened is that you have added TOO MANY fish TOO QUICKLY.  All from the shop that gladly sold you these animals, yes?  Along with all the test kits, I'm sure.  You have not mentioned filtration yet, and I will be hard-pressed to fully advise you without the following information:
Tank volume; Filtration; Lighting (for those real plants); Substrate.
>Am I doing the correct things?  Many thanks
>>You're doing the very best you can, but alas, you need to do some homework first.  I will direct you to see this link and to purchase a very good book for planted aquariums-- "Ecology of the Planted Aquarium" by Diana Walsted.  If you want the beauty of a planted tank, THIS is by far one of the best books around.  Now for the link:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwsubwebindex.htm
>>Make very best use of all the information contained therein, and know that you can save your fish, just don't stir the gravel or vacuum it, when you do the water changes make it BIG, and the tests that are important are the pH (though don't fiddle with it right now), ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate.  These are the nitrogenous wastes that are killing the fishes.  Do this, and we go on from there.

The Hanging Fish Gardens of Babylon
>I've noticed that on different decorations they are now suspending fish bowls from ceilings, with fish in them and plants coming out the top. They say the fish live off of the plants and the plants supply the oxygen. What type of fish and plants are they using?
>>Hello, Brittany. I have seen this done with the male of the species Betta splendens (an animal with what is known as a "labyrinthine organ"--an organ that actually allows the fish to assimilate atmospheric oxygen), and the plantings I have seen used are often Pothos, Syngonium, and bamboo. I believe that any houseplant that doesn't require a great deal of light and will root in water would be appropriate. I do not believe that the fishes require NO feedings, however. I am sure that the plant/fish biotope will create a small population of small animals, but I am not so sure they're truly sufficient for the nutritional needs of the fish. I would supplement with small, frequent feedings, and expect to change a small bit of water. The plant roots would uptake many nutrients, but since they'll root as well with fresh water it seems prudent to treat it more like a planted aquarium than a truly self-sufficient biotope. Marina

-Eclipse system 12-
Hi! <Hi! Kevin here> I'm looking into small (10-15 gallon) aquariums, after spending a few days online going over brands and filter types I decided on an Eclipse system 12, but when I walked into the petstore and asked about it the first thing the 'petstore guy' said was, 'I don't recommend it, it's junk.' Do you agree?
<Depends on what you're going to do with it. I'm a big fan of the eclipse line for small community freshwater setups. I think you've made a good choice.>
and if so, can you recommend another aquarium set up with filter, hood, and lighting for under $100? I'm only planning on a few (maybe 4 or 5 small) fish and plants, is the eclipse filter sufficient?
<Sounds like you're in for a very successful setup! Good luck!>
Thank You so much for your help, beautiful website :)
<Hope you learn from it! -Kevin>
Sincerely, Virginia

Where to start?
Dear WWM Crew,
<Greetings! Ryan with you>
I have read many FAQ's and have received a lot of help. <Great> Thanks so far! <Surely-It's nice to be of service> I'm a teenager who has taken an interest in fish. I went out purchased a 29G tank, with an AquaClear 150 Power Filter, I have about 10-12 lbs. of white gravel in the bottom. I purchased a hood with a light, a couple small fake plants, and a small castle. I have two Goldfish, and 3 Black-finned Tetra's, please help me determine what I "need", and what I "want", <Wow, how much simpler would life be if everyone asked me this question? Just kidding- Jared, I would start by adding some good circulation in your tank- and being really careful to not overfeed. Get in the habit of removing what you're fishes don't eat> as well as how long should I leave the light on for too? <There are no plants in your aquarium, so light is not necessary. However, any animal will benefit from a predictable schedule. Put your lights on a cheap timer for when you're home.> Thanks a lot, your advice will be greatly appreciated! -Jared, MN <Anytime- And good luck in your new acquisitions! Search the web for local clubs that share similar interests-Ryan>

- Freshwater Livestock Selection and Lighting -
What's Shakin'.
<Not a whole lot - JasonC here...>
I'd like your opinion on a setup that I am considering. <Ok.> I have a 120g tank that is 4x2x2. I'm planning on putting an ornate bichir, black ghost, butterfly fish (you know the brown surface skimming variety) and a tire track eel together. I want to use a large piece of driftwood in the center with various live plants. Would sand be a good substrate? <Mmm... you'd be better of with something a little more coarse that would lend itself to easy cleaning/vacuuming.> I'll be using PC lights from my old reef setup. 220W total. What spectrum of bulbs? <Daylight would be fine, but the majority of your livestock choices might not appreciate the intense lighting, you might consider cutting back and keeping this tank dimly lit.> I also want to use an Eheim Wet/Dry filter. Would that be enough? <If you use their large one, I think so... but you should check Eheim's specifications.> Do you think all the critters will get along and tolerate similar water parameters? <Most likely, but you might want to house more than one angel, just to keep aggression against the other fish down to a minimum.> Many thanks and handshakes in advance.
Mike
<Cheers, J -- >

New Freshwater tank planning
Alas, due to a tight travel schedule and ever-diminishing time resources, I am going to have to give up my reef tank (it's been up and running for the past 12 years).
<Bummer>
All is not lost, however, because I would like to set up a large (180 gal) tropical freshwater tank.
<YEAH!>
I would like your advice on a couple of areas, please:
I plan to get a "reef ready" tank with internal overflows (just in case I ever go back to reef). The tank will not be planted, and I would like to use bio-balls for filtration. Does that sound like an OK idea?
<Sounds good to me. If you are going for low maintenance leaving the plants out is a good idea, although there are some low maintenance, slow growing, low light plants you could use. Bio-balls will work just fine.>
I hate the idea of getting rid of a perfectly good (urchin pro) skimmer -- can I use it for freshwater? I guess even if it is not as effective as in salt, it will at least oxygenate the water.
<Won't really work in freshwater, it would aerate the water, up to you. My electric bill is insane, so the more I unplug the better.>
I plan to use natural gravel and hard rock (not limestone). Do the same parameters apply for freshwater gravel beds -- under 1 inch or over 3?
<kinda, but for different reasons. If you are going with no plants you will want to use enough to cover the bottom of the tank, around an inch is good, easy cleaning. Plants need deeper substrate to root it.>
I would like to populate the tank with Clown Loaches (among others). I have had good long-term success with these animals (I have two that are more than 12 years old). Can I mix a "school" of smaller ones with the two large ones? (the big ones are about 6 inches).
<Clown Loaches love company, you can mix in smaller ones, I would try the medium sized ones, a few inches.>
Can you recommend other long-lived, peaceful fish for a community tank?
<hmm... Clown Loaches can be a touch aggressive, so nothing too peaceful. Maybe some Barbs or some Angels? A big shoal of Corys is always fun. You have a lot of choices, its really up to you, check out our freshwater section and fishbase.org for more information. fishbase.org is great for checking the requirements of any fish that you have in mind. Best Regards, Gage>
thanks
tom

Multiple tank filter system
Hi. I was wondering if you could give me some info on setting up multiple
aquariums on one filtration system. I have about 10 freshwater aquariums
that I want to set up on one filter but I can't find any designs anywhere.
Could you please help??
Thanks, Eric
<There are a few articles and FAQs files archived on the business subweb on WWM re these systems. Please start here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/AqBizSubWebIndex/Biz%20Index/Biz%20index.htm
under "Set-Up". Bob Fenner>

No Heater?
Hey Everyone,
I'm just starting to think about putting together a freshwater tank without a heater.<not a good idea> So far I'm looking at either Kuhli or Yo-Yo loaches, not sure which ones I like more, but I think price and availability will be the
deciding factor.<these loaches like warmer water, if you live in a colder climate they will die with a drastic temperature drop, especially the northeast in the winter, would invest the 20-30 dollars in a heater> I'm also looking at the Japanese Swamp Shrimp.<ok, found this link, hope it helps http://suiso.com/ebi.htm>
Questions:
Will the loaches bother the shrimp? Will there be too much competition for food on the bottom? How many of each should be in a 40 gal tank together?<http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/cobitids.htm> Is it okay to put the shrimp and loaches in without quarantine from each other? <would quarantine all fish for at least 2-4 weeks before placement into the main system> Or will they contract diseases from each other? <can> Which ones should be put in first? What other fish would be good to populate the upper portion of the tank,<rainbowfish, conga tetras etc, can find other choices at WWM> hopefully from Asia, and not get too big? What kind of lighting should I have? <do read more at WWM> Do I need lighting when there isn't any live plants?<yes, for the fish> I get a fair amount of indirect sunlight where the tank will go. I have a filter already, it is a little old and I don't know how many gallons per hour it is, but it has a pretty good turnover.<would get a filter with a bio wheel> It is the kind that hangs on the back and basically sucks water up and passes through a sponge before it overflows back into the tank.<again would get a filter with a bio-wheel> What else could I add into the filter (because there is lots of room to add material) to increase filtration?<http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwset-up.htm> Do you think this is adequate? If not, what should I look at? (cost is a factor)<invest in a bio-wheel filter, will help tremendously, and do read about the cycle the aquarium must go through before the fish are placed. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/estcycfaqs.htm>
Also, if the Japanese Swamp Shrimp aren't available is there any other shrimp that would work well in this setup?<http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwcrustaceans.htm>
Sorry about the amount of questions, I like to have everything mapped out before I do things. <agreed>(except when my excitement gets the better of me) I don't even have a tank yet, but I want to get everything going soon after I do.<Keep reading my friend, IanB>
Thanks for the help, Mike

In the beginning, there was a tank...
Hi Wet Web,
<Hi Samantha, PF here tonight>
I am a beginner fish owner with several questions. I recently purchased a 29 gallon tank package (tank, heater, filter, thermometer). I set up the tank properly, washing it, the gravel, the plants - everything. The tank was filled, water conditioner and salts were added, and I let the tank run for one week. A friend recommended we purchase pH and ammonia test kits, and test the water before purchasing feeder fish for starting the initial tank-water cycle. So we did. <You wouldn't have any kind of nitrate or ammonia without something there to decompose, no surprise there was no change> The pH tested very basic, so we added the pH down solution....actually we added several rounds of it over a period of 5 days. <This stuff can take a while to take affect> The ammonia test, we did not attempt at this time. No changes occurred. It still showed the basic blue color to test. Ok...off to the local fish shop. They instructed me that pH isn't something to be overly concerned about. <That all depends on what kind of fish you are keeping, some less, others vital.> Ok. They sold me three cute feeder fish, and off home we went. I introduced them to the tank slowly and all was well for about two days. Then the tank started to become cloudy - I could actually see the coloring in the water swirling about! <This is bacterial growth from fish food/excrement> It got so bad that I couldn't see fish nor plant. Everyday it got more and more yellow and cloudy So I put the fish in a pail, and completely emptied, washed and re-did the tank and let it run. However, foolish me almost killed the poor fish in the bucket I had them in. As soon as I saw them wobbling on their sides I panicked and put them back into the tank. They survived, thank goodness. But it is now happening again. The water is turning yellow and cloudy slowly. Why is this happening? <Your tank is still cycling> I did not use any chemicals to wash the tank and supplies, no pH solutions were added the second time, just the salts and conditioners. The fish appear to be happy. They swim, eat and have periods of floating, where it appears they are resting. I keep the tank temp at 74 degrees F. I hope to have a community tank with tetras, mollies, a bottom feeder, an algae eater and the 3 feeders. But I don't want to rush into anything until I can get this under control and running properly.
<Tetras, as I recall are Amazonian black water fish, be sure and research any fish before making the purchase. Your time spent will pay in healthy/happy long lived animals you don't have to replace.>
1. Why is the water turning yellow? (I have town water, used water conditioners and salts as directed) Could this be a disease?<Much more likely it's bacteria, see above>
2. Should I have an air-rator device of some kind?
<Not necessarily, you filter will provide aeration>
3. I've read on your website that small frequent changes are best. Is once monthly sufficient for a 29 gal tank? I have 22 gal of water in the tank right now. <twice a month would be better, weekly better yet. A 4 gallon bucket (most home repair/supply stores have them) with an airstone in it would be a good place to condition water.>
4. The pH test kit and the ammonia test kit have no expiry dates on them, they are a no name type brand. Can these kits become expired? <Yes> Is there a widely known, reliable brand you can recommend? <I'm not an expert on FW testing, you might want to go over to the forum and post this under the Equipment & Dry Goods section. Here's the link to the forum: http://wetwebfotos.com/talk/ I do know Salifert makes a very good test kit, but bear in mind they are priced to match. AS I recall, they're are test kits you can get that include pH, ammonia, nitrate, etc. for about $35>
5. Is it necessary to have a test kit each for pH, ammonia, nitrates? <Yes> Should these tests be used frequently? Once a week or more? <Once a week would be a good routine>
6. I would like to add real rocks to my aquarium to create neat living areas for the fish. How can I safely go about this? I have checked my local pet stores, but none sell anything but gravel. <Ok, there rocks you can get at a home supply store, or garden shop. You might want to see if any of your local greenhouses also do ponds ( a growing hobby ) they may be able to point you to some good local rocks to use. Also check here for some advice from Bob: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PlantedTksSubWebIndex/rkwdscapeag.htm >
7. During the initial cycling for a tank to get it started, should I be doing any water changes? <Small, regular changes won't hurt> How will I know when to do one? If so, should the water changes be less than those of the monthly maintenance type changes? <No, biweekly would be better, say 5% (4 gallons)
8. How do I know when the cycling is done and it is safe to start introducing other fish? <Test for ammonia and nitrate, when you have 0 ammonia, and the nitrates are dropping, there you go. Add fish slowly>
9. I am suspicious that my filter is of poor quality. It is an Aqua-Tech filter that hangs off the side of the tank. It sucks water up into a bucket area and it passes through a flat cartridge like filter before pouring back into the tank. The filter is a black plastic sheet with a pot-scrubber like foam attached to it. Between the two is a small amount of charcoal pieces. No matter how many time I try to shake it to even out the charcoal, they settle to the bottom of the filter cartridge. <Not really an issue, most charcoal becomes "full" in a few days anyway.> I am worried that this is not filtering enough, or efficiently. Could this be the case? The force of the water pouring back into the tank is very strong. It pushes the fish all the way down to the bottom when they swim through it. Should a filter do this? <Not a problem really. The biggest problem with your filter is that when you change out the media, you remove a big chunk of your biological filter. You might want to look a unit with a BioWheel instead. Now, if you go that route, don't ever replace the BioWheel unless it breaks. Even if it looks cruddy and barely rotates, leave it on - it will keep your biological filter intact.>
10. Is there a method for feeding fish when you will be away for a couple weeks? <There are feeder blocks you can buy> I am new to my area, and know no one. I do not want strangers in my house. <And I don't blame you.>
11. Can I add water to the tank in between water changes, if the level appears to be low due to evaporation? <Yes, you should be topping off your tank>
Thanks for any help you can provide to me on these topics,
Samantha
<You're welcome Samantha, welcome to the hobby and have a good night, PF>

Looking for a thematic tank for a little girl's room
I realize that this is more trivial than your usual question. But I'm looking for a "feminine" tank for my little girl's room. A castle would be great, but we're open for just about anything other than the standard 5-gallon she has now. If it tells you anything, all the fish are pink and match her room! Any suggestions would be appreciated. Many thanks!!!!!!!!!!! J Riddle
<Depending on what size tank you want, there are several options that are quite beautiful. The 2.5g to 5g Mini-Bow tanks come in a variety of colors, I think pink is one of them. The 10g Via-Aqua tanks also come in a variety and I know pink is one although these tanks are getting harder to find now. Both have filters and lights included with them and are big enough that you could put a small castle in them. I have one of each of these tanks and love the bright colors. Ronni>

Re: Girly Tanks
Many thanks for the information. Where can I find them. the Mini-Bows and the Via-Aqua? JAR
<You're quite welcome. Many retailers sell the Mini Bows and a few are still selling the Via-Aqua's in certain colors. The ones I know for sure that have the MB's are PetSmart and Dr's Foster & Smith. Drs Foster & Smith also has the Via Aqua in one or two colors. But check around, other places will have them too, I just haven't looked specifically for these tanks lately. Ronni>

Re: New Tank Problems and General
Greetings,
<Good morning>
On basically the spur of the moment, I set up a ten gallon aquarium. Filtration is a small Whisper Power Filter (for 5-15gal aquariums) and a 50watt heater. I got the temperature at a nice 78, and constant. I have two live plants, a long leaf plant resembling a Sword, and another that resembles upwards ivy (for lack of true names, I apologize). As I know that beginning fish are basically explorers in a new and dangerous "land", I added only 4 things. 2 Guppies (male and female sold in pairs), A Zebra Danio and an Aquatic frog.
<You probably should have waited on the frog until the tank was cycled.>
I used a Trial Sized Tetra Aqua Safe water conditioner at first (according to the directions given), and A little bit of Doc Wellfish's Aquarium salt (what is that stuff, anyway?).
<Basically, it’s an expensive salt. The same results can be achieved by many other means but this is marketed solely for aquarium use. And actually, do some reading on frogs. You may find that you don’t want to use any salt (I’m not positive if they like it or not as I’ve never owned one).>
When first entering their new homes (I don’t have another aquarium to use as a quarantine, unfortunately) it only took a few hours for the first to die, the female guppy. At first everything seemed fine, but then she started being lethargic and finally it almost seemed as if she had narcolepsy. She would float by the heater, head upwards, and I saw no gill movement at all; then suddenly she’d spring to life, dart about the tank in a frenzy, then float again. She died shortly after she actually started sinking.
<Sounds like shock. Did you acclimate them fully before adding them to the tank?>
The next day (today), everyone was eating and seemingly enjoying he place. The frog (Who I have lovingly dubbed "Laze" as in "Lazy") sits beneath the fake rocks I put in. He shed his first skin (I was told this is normal, was I right?) but I have not seen him eat at all.
<Should be OK on the shedding. Your LFS should have some specific frog food, probably something called Frog Bites that you may want to try.>
Now the male guppy (who has been picked on by the Danio a bit), just after adding two live bulbs (Aponogeton and Dwarf Lily Hybrid), seems to be going lethargic as well, though he is not floating head-up like the female did. He'll swim a little (very little), then let himself sink to the bottom. His gills are moving, so I know he is breathing. Is this new-tank stresses? If so, is there anything that should be done besides regular maintenance? The Ph is perfectly neutral.
<Check your water. The ammonia level may be starting to spike and causing distress, if so, do daily water changes until the ammonia and nitrite levels drop back down to 0ppm.>
Also, I would like to try something, and you seem knowledgeable enough to give me some tips to do it, if it’s possible. I want to someday build an all natural tank, the most electronics being maybe a small filter (meaning less than normally needed), heater and light, if that at all. To get a better idea, all natural plants, natural gravel, etc; a bit like a biodome tank. Is there anyway to achieve this state of harmony?
<Go to http://www.wetwebmedia.com and do a search for biotope. That should give you a lot of information on it. You might also use your favorite search engine to search the web for it.>
Also, how do you know when you have a nitrogen cycle going, and when it will be safe to add livestock besides my poor Danio and Guppy?
<You can tell by testing the water for ammonia and nitrites and it will be safe to *slowly* begin adding fish when both of them have been at 0ppm for several days. It is highly recommended that you QT all new arrivals before adding them to your tank.>
Thank you for your time. Ray in Texas
<You're welcome! Ronni>

Re: SW to FW Conversion
A friend is giving me an aquarium. It has two holes in it and has a wet dry filter. He used it for saltwater. Can this filter be used for fresh water aquarium? Do I need to add anything or take out anything?
<Yes, you should be able to use it for FW with no problems. If possible, have your friend come over and set the tank up for you (minus substrate and decorations, you can add those yourself) since he’ll know exactly how everything hooks together.>
He is also giving me an RO machine at a low price. (He is moving out of state and doesn't want to move everything.) Is RO water good to use on freshwater aquariums? Would I have to add anything to the water after using the RO machine?
<You won’t want to use straight RO water but if you mix the RO with aged tap water you will be fine.>
He told me about your site and thought I'd check before getting and setting this all up.
<Do run a search using the Google search box at http://www.wetwebmedia.com for SW to FW conversion for more pointers.>
Thank You. Greg
<You're welcome! Ronni>

Setting up 300 gallon freshwater tank... temporarily?? (02/20/03)
Hello guys
<Ananda here today...(one of the gals)>
Our family has been into fish for years on a small scale fresh water brackish, African We have acquired a deal on 2 large tanks with filtration etc.. The 175 gal will be our first reef is was set up and running for years.
We will be setting up the 300 gal first as a freshwater tank. The boys would like to have a lot of plants and fish. It has never been set up but has all equipment for a reef which after we get into the 175 gal reef I am sure some day we will convert the 300 fresh to a reef.
<Converting a 300 gallon freshwater tank to a reef is no small chore. And if you have plants, it would be an even bigger chore. I have both freshwater planted tanks and a small reef tank. Honestly, I find the planted tanks take at least as much work to maintain as the reef tank does. However, a very large planted tank can be beautiful, and the tank size gives you a very wide variety of freshwater fish to choose from.>
The 300 has 2 corner over flows a Life reef lf1-300 Berlin filter sump, 6 ft tall Protein skimmer, Life reef automated denitrifier, 25 w uv, we still need lights.
<Lighting is often the most expensive hardware purchase for either a reef tank or a planted tank. You will need metal halides either way; for a reef tank you would probably want 2-3 times the wattage of a planted tank, depending on the types of corals you want to keep. I would contact LifeReef about how to set up the sump for a freshwater system.>
I figure we should install the sump. Do we need the protein skimmer the denitrifier and the uv filter or should we put them in the loop when we convert to reef on the 300.
<The protein skimmer will not work on a freshwater tank. If you plant the tank, your plants will be the denitrifiers. I would consider leaving the UV system off unless the tank inhabitants become diseased. --Ananda>

New Tank Set Up
My new tank is doing great thanks to your very good assistance. Your detailed response was extremely helpful to me. Cheers, Rosalie
<I'm very glad I was able to help and thank you very much for the update! I find myself lying in bed at night wondering what's happing with the tanks I've given advice on so it's nice to hear back once in a while! Ronni>

First Time Fish Keeper
Hello all, I am a complete novice at the fish tank thing... never even had a goldfish before...
<Welcome to the madness… uh, hobby! I am going to assume that you’re planning on keeping freshwater fish so these answers will apply only to that. I’m also going to recommend that you get a book pertaining to first aquariums and read it to help you on your journey.>
I bought a 29-gallon tank and can get a deal on a fluval 204 canister. Does this suffice, being that I plan to have the suggested amount of fish per gallon?
<This filter should be about perfect.>
Also, besides cleaning the tank, how long should I let the filter run before I can add fish?
<Start your tank with just a couple of goldfish to help with the cycling process. Don’t add any new fish until your ammonia and nitrites both read 0ppm. If you don’t have the test kits you can take water to your local fish store and they should be able to test it for you. Once the readings are at and stay at 0ppm, then you can get rid of the goldfish and go with tropical or keep the goldfish and slowly start adding more. The key here is that whatever you add needs to be added slowly (to prevent overload of your biosystem and causing ammonia/nitrite spikes) and all new fish should be quarantined in a separate tank before being added to your main tank. The QT period should be 2-4 weeks and is to prevent diseases from being introduced into your main tank.>
My house is always at 76 degrees. Do I need a heater if I get fish that are in this range?
<You might be able to get by without one but I would still recommend a heater just in case of fluctuation. Depending on the fish you keep, 78 is a good general temp.>
Does my tank require ANYTHING else to run properly besides the canister and the lighting? Such as a heater or powerhead (doesn't the canister filter provide the circulation, making the powerhead unnecessary?)
<Correct, your canister filter will provide filtration and circulation so you won’t need a powerhead. You shouldn’t absolutely need anything else although as time goes on I’m sure you’ll do like the rest of us and find things that your tank just “can’t” run without. *G*>
Finally...I read everywhere that besides filtration, the tank water actually has to be replaced every so often. How often is that and how do I do that? (I hope it's not siphoning the water into a bucket and then adding fresh tap water, that would seem a little primitive)
<This is very true and very important. And unfortunately, siphoning it out and replacing it is about the only way to do it. Before you add the new water though, you need to let the water sit for a few days to give the chlorine time to dissipate or it will kill all of your fish. It also needs to be at or very near the same temperature and also have the same PH. As far as frequency, I recommend 20% every 2 weeks or so.>
Thanks for the help - J. Luque
<Glad to be of service. Please also check out http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwsubwebindex.htm and read through the FAQ’s & Articles there for a lot more info. Ronni>

Heater choices
Hi. I appreciate your help very much! <No problem. Truly our pleasure. Paul here tonight, at your service.> I am planning to purchase a heater for my 20 gallon freshwater tank. <very cool....I mean cool as in cool idea cool. Not cool as in water temp....you know what I mean. Heheheh> I have read that Tronic and Ebo Jager are good brands. Do you agree? <Totally agree on the Ebo Jaeger brand. Not much interaction with the Tronic brand but have heard praise of their worthiness. I have Ebo Jaeger in all of my fresh and saltwater tanks. In my 90 gallon I have had the Ebo Jaeger in there for over 7 years and it still is running strong. Most brands are fine though, IMO. Many places online to purchase all major brands cheaply these days.> I was thinking I should get a 100watt heater. <Most systems require 3 - 5 watts of heater for each gallon. In high flow rate or wet/dry filter applications, 5 - 8 watts per gallon are suggested. Your recommendation sounds about right.> Our house is usually 72 degrees. Does that sound right? <fine> Should I get a heater guard to protect my fish from getting burned? I have a pleco that likes to hang on the filter tube so I am wondering if he might try hanging on the heater too? Also, is it best to position a heater vertically or horizontally? <Totally user preference here. I like to try and hide my heaters if I can so. Depending on what I am going to hide the heater behind will dictate the horizontal or vertical orientation. In aquascaping aquariums, I like to try and use a rock or plant to hide the tube from site. The key is making sure you have the setting you want before doing that, as it can sometimes be difficult to adjust once down behind some rock or plants or something.>
Thanks so much for your help! <The pleasure is al mine Wendy. Happy fishkeeping>
Wendy

Freshwater / Saltwater Sand Bed
Gentlemen,
Hope you can help me. I'm in the process of setting up a large aquarium -
750 gallons. Plan to initially set up as freshwater for a year or two and
transition to saltwater at a future date. For freshwater, I'm debating
between Under Gravel filtration w/external mechanical filtration vs sand bed
and external mechanical and wet/dry filtration. Thoughts?

 If I go the sand
bed route - is there a type of sand that will work for both fresh and salt
set-ups? Recommendations are appreciated!
<Only for freshwater organisms that appreciate hard, alkaline water. The substrates of utility for marines are mainly calcium carbonate based. Please see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsubstr.htm>
Thanks. Your website has been a source of great help.
<Ahh, glad to find you are familiar. Bob Fenner>
Regards,
Steve Walker

RE: Freshwater / Saltwater Sand Bed
Bob,
Thanks for the quick reply.
Given that I hope to initially set-up the 750 gal tank as freshwater with
eyes toward community tank - tetras, Gouramis, angels, etc... - what type of
sand bed should I begin with for fresh and what depth?
Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PlantedTksSubWebIndex/substraags.htm
Bob Fenner>
Thanks again.
Steve Walker

Re: New 15 gallon FW tank
Hey crew, great site! I have read literally hundreds of websites over the past few weeks in search of information, and most of them conflict with each other. You guys seem to have your stuff down. I have a few questions for you experts that I either haven't found specific-enough answers for or which I want the advice of a 'pro'. Please, in addition to answering any questions you can, comment mid-paragraph if you see issues I should deal with prior to
stocking my tank.
I splurged this Christmas and used some gift certificates to get a 15 gallon Eclipse 'Show' Tank, which is beautiful and sitting on my desk as I write this. It has an activated carbon filter and sizeable BIO-Wheel, etc etc etc. I bought 2 15 lb bags of SeaChem 'Onyx' gravel because I heard the darker gravels can highlight natural fish colors. It's untreated, porous, and
'possesses a slight buffering capacity'.
1. What does that last line mean in terms of what it will do to my
water/fish?
<Essentially nothing. It may contribute to alkalinity.>
2. I also got a bunch of fake silk plants. I don't have the time, room nor lights for real plants... yet). One of these plants that is supposed to be Lilaeopsis has some sort of bendable, possible wire or cord in the middle of it. It is made specifically for aquariums, but is this wire apt to rust over time and pollute the tank? I read about this frequently.
<Unlikely.>
3. Lastly, my handsome chunk of Malaysian Driftwood is presently soaking in tap water in a 5 gallon bucket with regular 2x a day water changes to remove tannin and anything else that might leach out. This wood will gradually 'lower' my pH reading, correct?
<Possibly. Depends on overall mass, make-up. It may not, but wood tends to lower pH.>
My test kit just arrived as well. I tested my water straight from the tap and found the following (imprecise to say the least) results:
 dH: 12-13
 pH: 7.5-8.5
4, I know water from the tap settles and these measurements change, so what should I prepare for/expect after activated carbon/driftwood/time set in?
<Just test pH, alk, ammonia, nitrites, nitrates as usual. This is all individual so you will need to wait and see.>
5. I also read on this site that the best chlorine/chloramine treatments are poly-vinyl ones. Is it safe to assume that all tap water has dangerous amounts of chlorine/amine in it and should be treated? To what extent? Any recommendations on brand names for this? My tank came with Wardley (R) Watercare CHLOR-OUT. It smells slightly like acetone. Is this one of those fish mucus-inducing brands that I should avoid?

My room temperature usually fluctuates from 72-78 F, since my computer and monitor are on almost 24/7. I am seriously considering buying a heater, but my room temperature stays between 72 and 78 (usually 76) and I think/hope the light on the Eclipse hood combined with black substrate will sufficiently heat up my tank for most FW fish.
6. Should I get one anyway? I have about 8 bucks to my name so price is important. ;) Should I just fill the tank and let it settle and monitor the temperature over the first week?
<No, get a heater.>>
7. I am very sure that my local tap water has something in it, since it leaves a white residue when it evaporates. My friend who is into SW tanks said it is high in phosphates. Should I treat this for FW fish or would it be sort of like the 'water softeners' that do more harm than good?
<You may want to consider some sort of water filtration/treatment, or buy water from your LFS.>
8. Pondering the issue of aeration... Is the Eclipse hood bound to provide enough aeration with the bio-wheel and minor splashes from the filter output or should I buy a small air pump and air stone?
<Aeration is fine as is.>
Now finally to stocking the tank: I have done lots of research, to no avail, in search of recommendations for good *SETS* of compatible fish for beginners. I am looking for recommendations on good tank mates, preferably very hardy and tolerant fish that will do well with each other. I came to the conclusion that guppies are good (64-82°F; pH 5.5-8.0; dH 10-30), as well as Corydoras (Trilineatus is what I am aiming for, 72-79°F; pH 5.8-7.5;
>dH 2-12). I don't think Cardinal or Neon Tetras would survive in my water, despite my fondness for them.
<Any of these are fine. You are smart to match water conditions to the needs of your fish.>
9. Rainbows are also reportedly very hardy fish but would they survive? Praecox, Turquoise, or Boesemani are my preference.
<Depends if you can match proper conditions. This is entirely up to you and your water.>
10. With guppies at the top and cories at the bottom, my tank would need a midwater fish (something colorful and lively but not aggressive or a tail-nipper) that would survive in alkaline, harder water. What do you recommend?
<Hmmm, remember this is only 15 gallons, do be cautious stocking/overstocking. Most of the fun is actually shopping around for *really* nice fish. I would suggest starting with a few small fish and go from there. The temptation will be to add more and more.....so start slow and add slow!>
11. Any last words of advice or pre-emptive eulogies for my future fish?
<I don't do eulogies! I'm a positive thinker! Watch water quality, perhaps get a good book, don't overfeed, and check out the FW stocking section of WetWebMedia.com. Take it nice and slow is my best advice.>
Much thanks, for your responses to others and for your fantastic site!
<Thanks! Hope this works for you! Craig>

UV in freshwater aquaria
Hello,
<Hi there>
I’ve read a lot of your FAQ on using UV sterilizers on marine aquaria but I haven’t found anything about using UV in freshwater aquaria.
 I’ve just bought a 480 litre tank which is cycling at the moment and I am considering buying a UV unit, principally because of the practicality of chemically treating a tank this size for disease and the lack of availability of a quarantine tank for the larger size fishes that I intend to keep in it, as well as the cost of stock replacement and the fact that I really HATE seeing fish suffer.
 My local dealer recommends a Vecton 8 watt unit or a pond clear 6 watt unit but this is contradicted buy the advice on the Vecton box which suggests a 25 watt unit for this tank size.

I have two questions – what are the pros and cons of using a UV unit in a freshwater setup? (My dealer says it will eradicate 99% of disease problems!) and if you recommend a UV unit for my setup, which one of the ones I have mentioned?
<I don't know about 99%... but will help reduce incidence, virulence of water born pathogens... and improve water quality overall. The only negative is the initial and operating costs... electricity and bulb replacement. Bob Fenner>

Turtles to fish
Hello,
I just discovered your site--maybe just in the nick of time.
Here's what I'm doing:
I kept two rather large Red-eared Sliders in a 90-gallon
tank for several years. About a year ago, they were adopted
by someone else. Since then, my system has been running with no livestock in it, no heater and no maintenance other than topping off the water. Last week I decided to set up the system for fish.
In addition to the existing gravel in the tank, I dumped
some dry gravel from a second tank (also formerly a turtle
tank) into the 90-gallon tank. Then I vacuumed the bottom,
cleaned the Fluval 304, filled the tank with all new water
and turned on the heater.
I haven't tested the water. Is this likely to be a safe
environment for fish?
<Should be>
Is it possible that it is a still a
"cycled" system?

What should I do now?
<Start doing those weekly water changes and add some fishes...slowly>
Thanks for your help.
<No problem! David Dowless>
Charlie Stricklen

Flow Rates of Overflows, Etc.
Thanks for the opportunity!......
For an 8'x2'x2.5' freshwater tank with large cichlids, I'm assuming I'll need about 3000 gallons of flow per hour. I am having the tank constructed, and I want to be certain I am building into the design the things I need to make such flow possible. How much flow can I expect from overflows? I guess I mean what will a 1" pipe allow to pass through on a gravity feed from the top or bottom of the tank?
<There is much info available about this on the web. Try sizing overflows at one of our sponsors. This will give you an idea of capacity. Nevertheless, I recommend sizing overflows and plumbing. You can always turn it down.....but the reverse requires re-engineering, expense.>
I am guessing I'll need several holes drilled (depending on their diameters) to facilitate filtration, etc. on a tank such as this.
<Yep>
I am debating between wet/dry vs. pond/pool filters (e.g. Aquanetics, but I can't seem to identify just what I need) vs. fluidized bed (or a combination). Since I want to be able to keep the detritus, etc. out of the water as much as possible to reduce the total nutrients in the system day to day (i.e. changing the prefilter daily) it would seem easiest to have a wet/dry setup in a big (75 gal?) sump which utilizes a micron bag that I can access easily. The water would then flow through the bio-balls and other media in the sump. But would two or three overflows (typical commercial design) generate a sufficient water supply for the return pump (please suggest some options).
<You will need to remove particulates, chemical and biological filtration. With Cichlids all three are necessary, they are messy eaters and big eaters make big waste problems. I would size the system to your needs, and then some. I always doubled my capacities with cichlids.>
Alternatively, I guess I could have a hole drilled about every foot or so along the top of the tank, fit them with bulkheads (no overflow boxes this time, and feed all the 1" (or whatever size) pipes into one or more micron bags just before the sump. As far as noise goes, would this be as quiet as a Durso standpipe in a "traditional" overflow box?
<Regardless of overflow type, I would vent them just like a Durso to avoid suction noise. Again, over sizing these is well advised.>
Still, I'm worried about water flow around and under the decorations, etc. for the purpose of allowing the overflows to mechanically filtering the water prior to wastes accumulating to a significant degree (remember... big messy cichlids!). Would you support the idea of a closed loop arrangement to move water from the lower layers of the tank around? How about a similar setup yet with the addition of a canister or whatever prior to returning the water? I had thought about using the wet/dry with the addition of some form of mechanical filtration added (the closed loop turned into a filter supply and return.. perhaps the Aquanetics deal).
<All of these would work. A closed loop is a good idea. You can take much of your ideas with perhaps the exception of actual water flow, from reef and messy marine set-ups.>
Another thing, and please forgive my rambling, I'm not looking forward to the nitrate boom and the need to change 100 gallons of water each week. Any suggestions to naturally reduce the nitrates in fresh water? I have thought about some way to include floating plants in the tank (somehow dealing with the overflows; don't want them sucking all the plants away!). I've also considered building a "freshwater refugium" wherein I would cultivate fast growing bunch plants, etc. to help naturally reduce the nitrates (the "refugium" would be needed since my fish would devour any plants in the tank proper and create filter blockages and generally big messes). I've been wondering about adding fresh water mussels too.
<Work on maximum filtration up front, concentrating on removing un-eaten food and fish wastes. This should eliminate the wastes before they become a nitrate problem.>
I guess overall, I'm looking for something that is much more sophisticated than the 18 tanks I currently keep. I have been successful for years with more modest projects, but I'd like to move from a crude 18 tanks to three very large biotope tanks of "museum quality" (for lack of a better way of putting it!). I really want to do it right, and need some direction........... If I'm way off please let me know! Thanks!
<Nope, planning ahead is right on target! As I see it your main concern should be sizing your filtration/flow rate to your needs.
Sounds like fun! Craig>

Freshwater questions - Lighting and filtration
Hi Guys, have really enjoyed the sight and loved your previous advice. A couple new questions.
<Excellent>
1. I am finishing cycling my new 72 Gallon freshwater tank. I don't plan to make it heavily planted - but I do want to grow a few plants. Currently I have 4 java ferns, 1 Bolbitis fern and some Java Moss all attached to small pieces of bogwood or coconut shell caves. (If you haven't guessed, I was thinking easy maintenance, low light requirements, movable plants - LOL). Now I am also thinking of adding some Riccia fluitans (attached to a mat that can be secured to some rocks, etc to give a lawn effect).
<I have found that hair nets work well to secure the Riccia, fishing line works too, but the hair nets I bought were 3 to a pack so I got to wear one while decorating. It takes aquascaping to a whole new level.>
Currently I have a single fluorescent strip light that came with the tank - (it has a 40 watt G.E Aqua Ray 9325K bulb). From what I have read, 2 to 3 watts per gallon is recommended for heavily planted tanks. So I since I am at about .6 per gallon, I know I am way under that.
<That watts per gallon business totally depends on your plants, the depth of your water, surface agitation, how thickly caked with water deposits the glass in your hood is (I've got some pretty nasty ones), and other factors.>
Will the plants I chose do ok with just this single light?

If not, would you recommend going to a dual fluorescent strip (80 watts), a triple strip (120watts), or a compact fluorescent (110 watts).
<It depends on how sick your obsession is. I like the power compact idea.>
Also, I know from your articles, you favor the Vita-lite (or similar bulbs in the 5500k range). Is my Aqua-Ray bulb the wrong range for what I want to do?

If I have to go to more than 1 bulb - could I mix a 5500k and my existing 9325k bulb?
<sure, as long as they are both the same type of bulb/correct bulb for your fixture.>
2. Second question - I a filtering this 72 gallon with a wet/dry sump filled with bio-balls (the tank was reef ready). I feel comfortable this is pretty sufficient - but I have been toying with the idea of adding a second "backup" filter if I can find a used canister fairly cheap. My main reasoning would be to use this as both a failsafe - Plus while I would have
the canister do some biological filtration, I would mainly use media for more mechanical filtration. Is this overkill or a reasonable idea? Any downside to this idea.
<Like I said, it depends upon how sick your obsession is, I think the wet/dry will be fine, but the more filtration the merrier. With the wet/dry on the tank I would focus the canister on mechanical filtration.>
Thanks, John
<You might also want to try rigging up some DIY CO2. Check out the planted tank articles on our site as well as the links below. Best Regards, Gage
http://aquabotanic.com/
http://www.thekrib.com/ >

Filtration
Howdy,
<happy New Year>
I found your site and read for a few hours yesterday learning a TON of information regarding my new 30 gallon freshwater tank.
<excellent! keep learning and sharing>
The basic setup that I have is a 30 gallon Power Filter, 100 watt heater, thermometer, ammonia chart (which changes color in the presence of ammonia), 2 plastic plants, and one large plastic magma/lava rock formation.
<hmmm... no mention of a primary biological filter here? Just a power filter? Even if it takes foam block instead of pads (some biological that can be preserved by rinsing instead of replacing)... the lack of a stable bio-liter like a large canister or UG filter is dangerous if true here. Certainly will fail with large or messy fishes>
I have (2) small 3 inch Tiger Oscars, and one 4 inch blue channel catfish.
<Oh, no! All three are huge as adults and grow quickly... this tank isn't big enough for even one of these fishes in the 12-18 month picture. Please trade these fishes in and get more appropriate sized specimens for a 30 gall (adult size 3-5").>
When I first got my tank I had read differing ways of cycling the tank for the first time and the leading websites, not yours, recommended just starting the tank with 2 to 3 small, hardy fish.
Let me start by what I did wrong: WAY overfed them, tried a bunch of different chemicals (store-bought) to deal with the ammonia problem. This led to ICK which I am now treating with CURE-ICK.
<do be careful here too...the oscars are tough, but the catfish is scaleless and will overdose on most medications easily>
Today I literally cleaned my whole tank with a light bleach solution and a 100% water change. I know this will now need to start the new cycle again and is but a temporary solution but I wanted to get all of the scuz out of my tank and start fresh - and hopefully a little wiser.
<and do buy a better filter ASAP. A large Fluval or Eheim would be quite helpful here. Much less stress for you and the fishes too... less work as well>
The questions that I have are as follows: How often should my fish be fed on a normal basis? Every day or every other?
<actually... 1-3 small feedings daily>
This is what my LFS recommended because of my ammonia problem.
<Your ammonia problem exists because they didn't advise you of a proper and stable biological filter>
How MUCH should I feed my fish? A friend claims the stomach is about the size of the eye.
<hmmm... and old rule of thumb that isn't true but works reasonably well to guide beginners to not overfeed. Indeed... a tiny feeding 2-3 times daily is best>
What other type of filtration would you recommend besides the Power filter that I have? Please try to give me the best solution under $200.
<absolutely, my friend. My advice (instead of a UG filter since cichlids dig in the gravel) is to get the biggest canister filter that you can afford that uses foam blocks (no HOT magnums here... go for Eheim or Fluval). Inside use all foam blocks or noodles for complete biological filtration)... and even slip a small course foam block on the intake in the tank to act as a bulk pre-filter (this will tremendously reduce the need to service the bio-foam in the unit. Carbon and chemical media can be kept in the power filter instead which is easier to service more frequently (but is lousy for bio-filtration)>
Erm, anything else that you can help me with would awesome and thanks again! Awesome website!!! Jim Howrie
<thank kindly, Anthony>

Heater for 2.5 gallon
My daughter got a 2.5 gallon eclipse with a carbon cartridge and bio-wheel, we want to know if we need a heater and a air stone for the following fish male guppies, Tetraodon Schoutedeni (puffer). Thank you for your help.
<I would get a very small wattage heater (likely 25 watts is the smallest) and carefully set this in the mid- 70's range. A warning about the fishes you list. The Puffer is very likely to eat your male guppies. I would go with something more easygoing to accompany them. Bob Fenner>

Re: Well Water... Bleeding gravel color
I just got a 10gallon aquarium for Christmas. The beautiful new gravel rocks started to shed their dye in the water. I have well water with a water softener.
<your water hardness (or lack thereof) had absolutely nothing to do with the leaching color... the LFS sold you/you bought inferior gravel...period. Even in hard water this would have occurred. And if by reason of acidity/low pH... then still would have occurred in alkaline water in time from organic acids. The gravel was the problem my friend... not your water>
Then I added the "start right" stuff, and my poor fishy was getting poisoned. What could make the rocks lose its dye?
<simply a bad batch or bad brand. Do try a natural aggregate instead of a colored one. Far better for the fishes anyway.. they show natural colors better on such gravel>
The guy at the store said it wasn't supposed to happen. Can you help me?? Terryjo
<Hmmm... was this an aquarium store or a department store? An aquarium store is unlikely to sell such a product. I would hope the merchant at any rate will stand behind their product. Best regards, Anthony>

Freshwater Set-Up
Hi, We are setting up a 12 gallon Eclipse system in our business office. My husband wants to decorate the tank with automotive engine components (brand new, of course). I have a 120 gallon salt water aquarium and know that
metal is a big no-no in salt water. Can we put metal in our freshwater tank? It would be aluminum or stainless steel so it wouldn't rust. I'm just concerned about dissolved metals in the water. Currently, we have a betta for the tank and will probably add two or three more fish, although we're not sure what kind yet.
<Interesting concept... I would run Polyfilter in your filter all the while (to hopefully remove metal ions as they go into solution). Is there any way to coat the parts with clear material... so they stay looking nice and don't interact with the water? Maybe ask your suppliers what they use for making such demos. Bob Fenner>
Thanks! Holly

Protein Skimmers for Fresh Water
Would there ever be a time that a protein skimmer would be beneficial in fresh water?
If so, please describe. Thanks.
<protein skimmers are used in freshwater systems that have heavy bio-loads and are hard (water hardness) and especially if they have at least some salt added. Pondkeeping and African cichlid tanks are the best examples I can think of. Hard salted freshwater with heavy fish loads. Best regards, Anthony>

Establishing Nutrient Cycling
How do you guys recommend starting the cycle without using fish? Drop a couple Hikari pellets?
<While any organic matter will work, with a saltwater tank you can just use liverock. There is plenty of dying matter on new liverock. If you are setting up a freshwater tank, you can still do fishless cycling using ammonia. There are numerous articles on the process. I got over 450 hits on fishless cycling when searching Yahoo. -Steven Pro>

Freshwater liverock?
Hey crew:) Here's a question I've always wondered. Will live rock become 'live' in the sense of biological filtration over time like salt water live rock will? Even if you 'kill' your live rock it will eventually hold biological filtration, is this true in fresh water as well?
<Yes it is. Bob Fenner>
Mark

New Tank For The Holidays
Thanks for the response. Well I did set up a system with flex tubing buried under the gravel (with just the tips exposed) to facilitate water movement in the tank - and it works well. Unfortunately I have had some other problems.
<That's always "par for the course", as they say...>
In essence, I had some problems with a leaky bulkhead. After trying to stop the leaks with no success, I had to cut it out (because the pipes from both side were glued in). My LFS had no bulkheads - so I tried to plumb it with some parts from Home Depot. Actually came up with a setup which worked (or so I thought). It worked fine till my pump was on - then I started getting a leak from the new bulkhead. So a late nite trip to Wal-Mart and some Silicone caulk solved that.
The pump and plumping then worked fine for a day - but then another leak - this time it was creeping up the threads of a ball cock valve I used as part of the new bulkhead set-up. So by this time I am pretty frustrated (not to mention my wife who isn't happy with the mess) - so I take the new plumping out, break the tank down, etc and call the manufacturer for a new
bulkhead - which should hopefully arrive this week - and then I will start fresh.

Now my question / dilemma. When I started to set up this new 72 gallon tank, I promised my wife we would have our old 29 gallon tank (which we drained 80% of the way and slid on its stand out of the way where the new one is going then refilled it leaving it in the same room close by) closed up and out of the room by Christmas. (These are both freshwater tanks and the 72 gallon is replacing the 29 gallon). Well, now that I have lost 2 weeks at least of cycling the new tank - I am not sure I can do that. So, I am trying to figure out if there is some way to cycle the new tank sooner.
Now, I have read all the faq's, etc and know that this is pretty unlikely - but what I am wondering is what if I set up the new tank with a few (3 to 5) fish from my other tank initially (along with some handfuls of gravel from the existing tank in a mesh bag in my sump) - and then in 2 weeks, I do a water change removing about 29 gallons from the new tank and
putting in all the water and the rest of the fish (about 15) from the old tank - plus hooking up the old tank filter to the new tank to run temporarily (or alternatively, putting the filter media in the sump of the new tank). Am I just asking for trouble - or does this have some merit?
<While I would never say that this kind of thing should be a "standard procedure", there certainly is some merit to "jump starting" a new tank by using gravel, filter media, and even some water from an established healthy tank. If anything, you will bring in a lot of beneficial nitrifying bacteria and other microfauna which will help this tank cycle much more quickly>
My thinking is that the water from the old tank, which has been running several years, plus the filter will help the cycling process along.
<Yep- as above..>
Plus given that I have typically done 50% water changes on the old tank every 3 weeks (I know probably too much at once and not often enough - but it was always a pain with buckets - now I have a Python for the new tank which will make things a lot easier) - my fish are pretty
used to a 50% water change. I realize most of the good bacteria are living on the gravel or filter media but I am not sure if enough would also be transferred via moving the water to the new tank.
<Well- like I said, it's certainly going to help, but it won't guarantee an "instantly cycled" tank. BTW, I think you'll find that smaller, more frequent water changes will give you great results with a lot less labor than you might think>
Am I all wet with this idea - and should I just live with a typical 30+ day cycle period - and an upset wife (although she is probably resigned now to this) because the old tank is still up and running in the family room over Christmas - or do you think this will work. Thanks, John
<I guess that the old adage from reef-keeping comes into play here: "Nothing good ever happens fast in a (reef) tank". Unfortunately, as much as we'd like to, or as much as we try to help-Mother Nature seems to have her own time clock, and is not obligated to follow ours! I think that, if you explain to your wife that it's better to let things go along naturally, than to try to force stuff, she'll understand. A tank full of dead and dying fish, suffering from ammonia toxicity, right by the Christmas tree will certainly not help the holiday be a happy one! Just hang in there-you're doing it right! Regards, Scott F>

What media should I use in my new Eheim?
I am going to set up an Eheim 2026 on a freshwater 55 gallon moderately planted tank. I use RO water with RO right and discus essential from Kent. I have two discus, two blue rams, 8 neons, 5 hatchets, 3 glass cats, two loaches (clown and yo-yo), 1 small clown Pleco, 4 Cory cats, and 3 otos.
What filter media would you run in the Eheim?
<All of the filter media products are made to handle a specific area of filtration. Decide what you want the filter to do for your tank and select media based on those decisions. Eheim does a good job describing the functions of their media>
If your answer includes a bio-media would you use Eheim sintered glass (Ehfistrat?), fluval¹s bio-max, bio-balls, or something else?
<IMO I would only run Eheim media products>
I currently have a Fluval 304 on the tank, but have decided to go with the Eheim instead (just haven¹t been completely thrilled with the Fluval). I have ceramic and Ehfistrat in the Fluval and will migrate that to the Eheim and then migrate from that to whatever you recommend for the long haul.
<You'll be happier with the Eheim>
Thank you for your help.
<You're welcome. David Dowless>
Jeff Abramson

Filter Sizing
I have a 37gal freshwater tank (African cichlids) and need to know Fluval or Eheim. Heard of newer Fluval clogging up quickly. I know u guys are more partial to Eheim. So any clue of what size to use looking at 2215 (164gph) or 2217 (265gph) would like to have luxury of self priming model. Any suggestion would be appreciated. Rocky
<well, Rocky- as they say- "Bigger is better" when it comes to filters...I'd go for the 2217, which can handle (according to Eheim) up to a 150 gallon tank. I'd rather have the luxury of more filter media space, than be limited by too little. And the price difference makes it worthwhile to go to the larger model, IMO. Good luck! Scott F.>

New Tank Set Up Questions
Hi, love your site. I just bought a 72 Gallon
bowfront tank and am planning on setting it up this
weekend. It will be a big upgrade from the one 29
gallon tank I have.
<Yep- should be nice! You'll enjoy the flexibility and stability that a larger tank affords!>
I plan on using it as a freshwater tank - but it
already is reef ready (got a great deal on it) with a
built in overflow system - so I will be using a
wet/dry filter.
My 2 questions - in doing some reading / research:
1. I have read where some folks recommend you put some
filter floss / batting down on your glass before the
gravel. The theory is to provide the good nitrifying
bacteria more room to grow. Is this a good idea and
is there any downside to it?
<I've heard of this, but I personally have never seen the necessity of doing so. I tend to just use a nice layer of gravel of the appropriate size, keep it clean, and maintain good water conditions. I don't think that you need to go to the extra trouble.>
2. I also would like to insure some good water flow in
the tank at the lower levels (for a variety of
reasons). Kind of similiar to reef tanks with steady
currents. My options are to put a couple submersible
powerheads / pumps near the bottom in a couple of
places - or do a plumbing setup with pvc tubes running
to a few spots on the bottom - with a single pump /
powerhead hooked to this pvc tube pushing water thru
it. The tubes would then be buried under the gravel
with just the tip - nozzle heads sticking out.
(Basically an idea I have stolen from here - its the
last concept discussed on that page - with pictures /
diagrams included):
http://www.vatoelvis.com/Movement.html
I am interested in what option you think makes sense
and why - and any downsides you see to either.
Thanks
John
<The idea is neat. I've never tried it, but it seems to be a nice approach. Much "cleaner" than powerheads, from an aesthetic point. I usually don't like to see things like powerheads floating in the tank, so this seems like a better idea. As long as this makes sense to you- I say to go for it! Have fun! Regards, Scott F.>

Wet/Dry "Aquasystem" for freshwater planted aquarium
Hello,
<Greetings from David Dowless in sunny Las Vegas!>
I have a 50 gallon "TruVu Aquasystem" tank, roughly 40x16x20" tall -a previously outstanding reef tank with built in wet/dry filtration system. I would like to resurrect this tank into a planted fresh water habitat for a few Discus, Gouramis, and such small mellow friends. I have NEVER had a freshwater aquarium (though I actually made a business out of the early booming reef tank phenomena of the late 80's/early 90's) . How do you think such a system would support the desired habitat?
<I think the tank will work great. Just remember to choose fish that are from similar habitats with similar water and care requirements. Of course you will need strong lighting from the start (reef lighting will be fine) and to get really lush plant growth, you may eventually need a CO2 reactor. You can research this on Wetwebmedia.com under freshwater articles.>
From what I've read, it will not need or even like the massive current flow that the reef thrived on. My primary question is in regard to the wet/dry filter system. How would you expect this to work?
<It will work but please submerge the bioballs to reduce the nitrate the wet/dry will produce. If you find that you need less flow, down size the circulation pump or add a ball valve so you can throttle the existing pump back. Just don't restrict the intake side of the pump>
I do have an Eheim canister,
<It will work>
protein skimmer
<Of little to no use in a freshwater environment>
UV sterilizer
<Can be used>,
and diatom canister as well
<diatom canister will work for occasional water polishing but isn't really needed. Your call on this one>
My guess is that the wet/dry will do the job without these?

I have two other questions, related to lighting and plants, but I'll send these as separate inquiries to aid in others searching's. Thank you very much for your time! Richard
<You are more than welcome. Good luck. David>

Freshwater Cycling, water quality, medications, ch, ch, ch, changes
First/ kudos for such a wonderful site I have been reading for over two hours.
<Thank you from the entire WWM Crew! Keep reading and stay tuned for the upcoming books!>
I had a tank for years when I was little with city water, it seemed so much easier then. Recently I was given a 20 gal tank. I have well water with a salt softener. My problem. I cannot keep my PH down, and the ammonia is 2ppm! I can't believe I still have fish.. A little history.
<Alright, if you have ammonia in your well water with a 7 pH and a creeping pH, I would first suspect your softener is not operating properly. If your water chemistry prevents the softener from removing ammonia, consider purchasing a reverse osmosis/de-ionization unit to remove these contaminants from your source water. See the sponsors of WetWebMedia.com for several of these.>
I set up the tank with rinsed gravel from the local pet shop (an hour and a half away from my house) for a week and a half, under gravel filter with the air stones on the side, over the side Whisper 2000 filter with carbon and sponge bag. plastic plants. I (had) have clear water and perfect ph temp around 76 and no ammonia, non existent. Water out of my tap is neutral ph. so after 10 or 11 DAYS and ph of 7...I put 4 neons , 1 catfish, 3 Rasbora scissor tails, and 2 pink tetras of some sort. In about a week the neons get ick. I figure its the pet shop I bought them from. After reading your site, (I put too many in too fast).
<Yeow, too much too fast and no test results of nitrites or nitrates! It is likely the fish died from nitrites. Slow down.....breathe...>
Started medicating. Then tested the water. PH high..9.0 AMMONIA .5PPM. Immediately get the ph neutralizer for my water, one cap ful for every 10 gal and switch out 1/2 the water while vacuuming. Neons and catfish do not make it, ph is now 8.5 and the ammonia is 2ppm.
<Alright, slow down and stop all the water additives. The "medication" likely killed off your biofilter so the ammonia spiked, to be followed by nitrites, which you should also be testing for. Perform regular water changes (with clean water) to keep this in check until your tank cycles again. If you must medicate, remove the fish to a quarantine tank and treat them there. I suspect the rising pH is your softener or perhaps the "rinsed gravel" if it is not packaged specifically for aquariums, usually coated. Water changes with RO/DI water (pH 6-7)from the local fish store will lower the pH. If it creeps up from there then I would suspect the gravel and remove/exchange it with coated gravel specifically for aquariums.>
Now water is cloudy, neutral at first and ph still climbing.
without writing a novel. When my treated well water out of the tap stands for a few days,, just in a glass the ph gets about 8.5. I do not overfeed the fish,, just about twice a week. So I changed the water again. 1/2
<You nailed it...it's your softener. Go to one of our site sponsors and look for a deionizer (less water waste) to treat your water. You should look into having your softener serviced.>
This time I use distilled water (figure my well water has too many minerals, iron and such), and carbon with crystals that keep ammonia down. The ph is at about 7.5 but the Ammonia is still high.
<Yep, killed biofilter from meds...>
The water is cloudy and the fish are swimming a little sideways. I've now use a product called Cycle that ads bacteria so the filter will work and the fish won't get stressed. I have added another air pump incase they are not getting enough 02., The water is still cloudy white (after reading your sight that is the bacteria ?).. the fish are not very active, they do not seem to like the light. I cannot believe the distilled water does not keep the ph down naturally.? I treated the tank with Ammonia Block 2. From the very beginning on advice from everyone. Its like a chemical cocktail for those fish.. I really want this to work.
<Make water changes, get a good test kit for nitrites, nitrates so you can see your tank cycle. The pH is about right considering you are starting with 9.0 to begin with. If you change 50% with pH 6-7 distilled water it can only reduce to the mean, IOW, 7.5.>
I realize now perhaps I should just wait and see?
<Mainly water changes with better water until the cycle is re-established.>
Now that I have read your sight finally, others are not as informative, I realized I should just let it sit.
<Tested for nitrites and nitrates too.>
I have the ammo carb in the filter along with carbon, inside the little cloth / sponge bag thingy.. Things have changed in 20 years, and I am only 34.
<Don't blink, it will again my friend!>
How long would you suggest is a normal waiting period for that bad ammonia to go down.. I read the whole AX and Y thing about the ammo block 2 but it is too late I already used it. You do the test you see that bright yellow and you panic and medicate. I just don't want the little guys to die, they are swimming weird. I know you get bombarded with so much I am just so in the country and I am such a city girl. I am having a withdrawal for info. Thank You. Laura
<Alright City Girl! Your tank will cycle again, so you need to perform water changes (with RO/DI water, reluctantly the distilled water because of other possible contaminants like copper) to protect your fish from nitrites resulting from ammonia breaking down. When this process is done ammonia will be zero, nitrites zero, and nitrates upward of 10 or more. Regular water changes reduce nitrates. Just stay on top of your water quality, likely for 10 to 14 days. There is much, much more for you to discover at WetWebMedia.com in the freshwater set-up pages, do check them out! Best of luck! Craig>

Freshwater Stocking/Set-Up
Thank you for all of the information. I don't know why people that don't have a clue open pet stores!
<It is all about the moolah.>
Let me make sure that I understand you correctly. I need the underground filter or I have to have a canister filter?
<Correct>
How is a canister filter different from a box filter?
<It has extra biological filtration capacity.>
Also, what size freshwater aquarium is easiest to maintain with the least amount of water changes?
<They all require water changes. You can and will be very happy with this 20 gallon tank if you pick appropriate fish. Right now, everyone you have listed will outgrow this tank and die because of it besides the Gourami. Let me suggest you remove everyone, put the undergravel filter back in the tank with about three inches of gravel. After ammonia and nitrite are both zero, you can begin adding some fish. I would look at Rosy Barbs, Tiger Barbs, various Danios, etc. They will all due well together, in this size tank, and with the Gourami.>
Thank you.
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Nitrogen cycle - should I just start over?
Dear Guys,
<Howdy>
I have been trying to cycle my tank for four weeks. The 3 starter fish are all dead. The ammonia never really spiked, it went to 0.5 ppm and stayed there.
<Judy, have you read this?: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/estbiofiltmar.htm
and the linked files, FAQs at top?>
The pH went from 7.4 (tap water) to 8.6 and stayed there.
<What? Is this freshwater? Do you have live rock? Any idea of what your alkalinity is?>
Nitrites are completely out of whack. My test kit only goes up to 5.0 ppm. I know nitrites have been higher than that for at least two weeks.
<Yeeikes!>
Last night I made several dilutions of 4 ounces of tank water using tap water to get the nitrites into a range that I could read it in my test kit.
<Good technique>
I estimate that the nitrites are 30+ ppm. Nitrates have stayed at 10 ppm. My questions: (1) is there a nitrite test kit on the market with an upper range greater than 5.0 ppm? (2)
<Yes, but unnecessary... if your nitrites are in excess of 1 or so ppm, there is trouble...>
should I just dump the whole thing and start over?
<Let's go back... tell us about your system, what you did to get to where you are now... it may be that there is no advantage to starting again...>
If so, should I use the sponge filter without rinsing it in the hope that some of the correct bacterial colonies have started to grow?
<Need background info.>
Or do you think bacterial growth has been inhibited by the high pH and high nitrites (I know they need nitrites - but maybe extreme levels inhibit their growth).
<A few things may be causing you troubles now, and later...>
(3) If I do start over I am going to try fishless cycling using plain store bought ammonia.
<Mmm, don't do this... please read over the above citations... save yourself time, money, grief>
The instructions I have give the desired starting concentration of ammonia in mg/ml, my test kit measure in ppm. Can you tell me how to convert ppm to mg/ml?
<Milligrams per liter is equivalent to parts per million... milligrams per milliliter will be 1000 times milligrams per liter... divide your readings (in mg/ml) by a thousand to get ppm. Bob Fenner>
Thanks, Judy

Re: Nitrogen cycle - should I just start over?
Dear Crew,
Bob responded to my first email and asked for more information about my system (sorry I wasn't more explicit in my first email). I am providing the additional information here with the hope that you can give me some much needed guidance. My original email with Bob's answer is attached below this new information for your reference.
<much help, thanks kindly!>
Here is the information about the system I am trying (unsuccessfully) to cycle. I am cycling in my deliberately bare bones 10 gallon tank. This tank will eventually serve as a back up to my 30 gallon. I cannot fill my 30 gallon tank at this time because I have to move it soon. However, if I ever get this nitrogen thing going, I will put the water from my 10 gallon tank into the 30 gallon and fill the rest with tap water and temporarily move the sponge filter to that tank.
<all sounds like a good plan thus far>
My main filter for the 30 gallon will be an Eheim canister filter (Ecco 2233).
<which is running on the 10 gallon now hopefully... diffused flow if necessary>
System that I am currently trying to cycle:
10 gallon bare bottom FRESHWATER tank
sponge filter
airstone
heater (water temp =80 degrees F)
thermometer
Days –5 to –1: Baseline measurements: tap water
pH=7.2
Nitrite=0.5 ppm
Nitrate=5.0 ppm
Ammonia=0 ppm
Day 0: 3 fish added to tank
Day 13: last fish died
Day 24
pH=8.4
<yowsa! What made the pH jump from 7.2 source to 8.4 in a bare bottomed tank?! No gravel to buffer. Either a chemical was added or there has been a misreading. If true, it may easily explain the fish death>
Nitrite=20+ ppm
Nitrate=10 ppm (this is the upper limit of my test kit. Actual nitrate value may be higher)
<no worries here on the nitrate even if fairly high>
Ammonia=0.5 ppm
I have only provided the first and last measurements I made. I tested and recorded results several times between days 0 and 24, but omitted them from this email in an attempt at brevity.
<understood and appreciated>
Before starting the cycling I read the article on your website as well as chapters on the nitrogen cycle and how to cycle a tank in several books. I understood the process and thought I understood how to accomplish it.
<indeed... fairly straight-forward>
In light of the above information: How do I proceed from here? Dump it out and start again? Is anything salvageable?
<no dumping yet... but do try to discover how that pH got way up there (any buffer or additives?). If the readings were accurate, it is a problem that may kill more fishes. I'm not too concerned about the cycling... it all comes in time with stable water chemistry. Let me suggest a large water change, wait 2 days... test pH again and then add a few hardy starter fishes>
If I ever actually get to the point of being able to stock my 30 gallon tank, I promise to name my first fish after you! Thanking you in advance, Judy
<in that case... Stimpy Rodriguez it is... Anthony Calfo is just an alias. Thanks kindly>

Jebo Aquarium Tank Inquiry
Dear Bob,
<cheers>
I'm thinking about purchasing a 15 or 25 gallon Jebo aquarium tank for my future trio Japanese Blue Glass Guppies( including 1 neon green Cory catfish and 2 algae eaters.) I want to know if the Jebo tanks (a tank made in China) are a good brand to invest in? (If not can you recommend a brand of aquarium tank that is good for guppies.)
<alas... we are not familiar with this brand yet in America... mfg site at
http://www.jebo.com.cn/html/company.html >
Do you know if the filtration system of the Jebo is ok?
<likely fine for modest needs of guppies>
And I also plan to have live plants and sand in my tank.
<excellent>
Do I need an under gravel filter?
<not necessary>
And should I use power heads?
<in larger aquariums over 20 gallons>
And what kind of heater do I need?
<a titanium one or one with a remote thermostat would be ideal but may not be necessary>
Should I also clean my new tank before I add anything in it?
<rinse with salted water>
After cleaning, should I add the sand, plants, and water in and let it cycle for 2 weeks before adding any fish?
<just a few days for clarity and temperature stability will be fine>
After that should I put in a cheap fish to test out my water?
<yes>
If so for how long before I can put the fish I want in?
<4 weeks would be ideal>
Any suggestions or advice would be much appreciated. Thank you for your time Bob. Sincerely, Anna
<best regards, Anthony>

A Bait Tank
Howdy! By the time you see this, the auction will be over, but I thought this
was almost hilarious:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2057335328
Aquanetics is selling a bait tank! And the category was under Fish bowls!
HEEHEE.
-Cathy <><
<Hysterical... but really a very nice unit... and it does sell for about this amount. Bob Fenner>

New Tank
Hi Bob,
<Steven Pro in this evening. Bob is probably still on the road from Dallas back to San Diego.>
My husband and I decided to get our to little kids a fish tank a week ago Saturday. We bought a Starter Kit from Walmart and some fish. We set up the tank (5 gallons) according to the directions, washing everything out and putting in the chemicals for tap water. Our problem is that our water has been cloudy for a week now and there is a horrible smell coming from the tank. What do you suppose is the problem?
<Several possibilities; initial overstocking/cycling problems, overfeeding, under filtered, etc. Please take a look at this article,
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwtips4beginners.htm>
Help, we are very new at this. Thanks, Sheila Squier Oldershaw
<Welcome to the hobby! -Steven Pro>

Filtration and lighting a planted tank
Hello to all, I first want to say what a wonderful web site you have and what a potential for learning exists here. << Thanks, we do our best! >> I am starting up a 90 gallon plant tank and have just a couple of questions regarding filtration and lighting if that is OK. << shoot >>
For lighting I have a Power compact lighting system that is a 4 bulb 96 watt each system. <<Fabulous!>> What temp spectrum bulbs would you recommend? I was thinking of using 2-6500k and 2-5000k bulbs. Or would it be better with 4-5000 or 4-6500? << I'd personally lean toward the 'sunny' side - 5000K, but the quality of the overall spectrum is really more important than the peaks, which are more about aesthetic preference. See if you can get spectral charts of your candidate bulbs to make an informed decision. >>
For filtration I am lost plain and simple. My LFS has no clue and every article I read has a different opinion. I was going to use a undergravel filter with a 4" layer of fluorite on top. The reason for undergravel is that I am concerned with anaerobic bacteria growth in a 4" substrate with no flow that would possibly kill the fish within. The UG would be a reverse flow powered by a Magnum 350 canister with a carbon insert. What is your opinion? << I personally love UGs, but I'm not so sure about their place in a heavily planted system. Still, sounds fine, except - unless you already have that Magnum, consider something a bit more refined - like an Eheim >>
Thank you for everything and please keep up the good work online you guys are invaluable for your help and knowledge. Philip Tomarchio
<< You're quite welcome, Cheers, Zo >>

Cloudiness
Hi, my name is John. I set up a 55 gallon cold water aquarium in my home @ 3 - 4 weeks ago. I believe I did everything according to manufacturer's instructions and information from various books. One thing I had to do was set it in front of a window, as this was the only spot we have for it. I added a background scene to try to alleviate the light from the window. The water temperature varies from @ 70 to 76 degrees depending on how much sunlight we get.
<A six degree temperature swing can be very problematic, a trigger for parasitic infections. You should adjust your heaters and/or chiller to maintain a more consistent temperature.>
I have 8 small (max. 3 ") fish in the tank right now, but want to add more. A week ago I added a bottom feeder to the tank, which seems to be doing well. The fish all appear to be healthy. My problem is that my water is very cloudy, and has been for a couple of weeks. It is a white cloudiness, not green. I have cleaned the filters a couple times (foam & carbon bag inserts), but have not done a water exchange yet. How can I clear up this cloudiness?
<This sounds like a bacterial bloom related to cycling and the age of your tank. Test kits measuring ammonia and nitrite would be particularly useful.>
Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
<Please search through the www.WetWebMeida.com site regarding cycling and the nitrogen cycle. -Steven Pro>

uv filter for freshwater
hello
a friend of mine has a 90 gallon with cichlids he has a problem with algae
growing on the glass he just has no 20 watt flo. and a tetra tec filter and a
few good size algae eaters but they cant keep up with it anyway do you think
a uv filter would stop the algae from growing
<Mmm, not really... Ultraviolet sterilizers are of more use for "free floating" algae... "green soup" types. But we have many other better ideas to help your friend get his system back in control. Please read and refer him here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwalgcontrol.htm>
iv never used one so I don't
know if that would work or not
thanks for any info
<Be chatting, Bob Fenner>

salt water tank (to fresh)
A friend of mine has a salt water tank (empty now) and I wanted to see if it was possible to clean the tank and reuse it for my cichlids.
<Nothing wrong with the tank>
If this possible?
<Some of the equipment may not work, namely a protein skimmer, but most other things are ok.>
Thanks, Matt
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Cycling Freshwater Tank
Hi crew,
This is the first time I email you, and I hope that you can give me the help that I deadly need it. I bought a 16 gallon fish tank 3 days ago I but I think I didn't start right the problems begin with:
1) even I washed the gravel for 3 hours and I thought the wash water was clear but when I put the gravel and filled the tank with water, shortly the water became not clear as it should be it has been colored a little white, but the fish still doing well as I think but I am afraid it could affect them indirectly after some days
2) I have 4 Fantail goldfish + 2 calico butterfly telescope eye goldfish + 2 iridescent shark pangasius + 2 Angel black lace
<My friend, you have received some dreadful advise. You have way too many fish in such a new tank and really some fish that do not belong in a 16 gallon tank, regardless of how new or old the tank is. For right now, I would remove everyone but one goldfish with the hopes of eventually housing just two. These are big fish that put a large demand on the filtration.>
the second problem that I've noticed that the Angels don't eat all fish going to the surface to pick the seeds but the Angels don't and even, I've been warned to overfeed them that's why the Angel couldn't find left food for them to eat (maybe they don't like eating from the surface)
<They maybe stressed and not eating due to water quality issues.>
3) today I saw one Fantail I always swims slowly and her head is always down while her tail is upward and her upper fin is always closed somehow. please help me cause I've tried to chat on your chat forums but I couldn't find anyone to help me even I searched all the Aquariums chat all over the internet. they were always empty, so I will be grateful if suggest me some place to chat in and to get the right information that I need cause I think I will need information and advises everyday.
<Please see our coverage on setting up and cycling freshwater aquariums. You can begin your education here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwtips4beginners.htm and I would strongly recommend you read on through the blue links at the top of the page.>
I will be waiting your feedback and please as soon as you can, your reply will be so appreciated
Regards, Mahmoud Saleh
<Best of luck to you in your current situation. -Steven Pro>

FW Set-Up
<<Greetings, JasonC here...>>
I bought a complete tropical freshwater aquarium set up from EHEIM.
It came together with all the accessories.
Its a 112 L (25 Imp.gal / 30 U.S.gal.) aquarium
Dimensions :
Tank length 80 cm (2 ft. 7 in.)
Tank width 35 cm (1 ft. 2 in.)
Tank height 40 cm (1 ft. 4 in.)
It came together with two (2) 18W MARVA (commercial) Cool white fluorescent lamps. My tank is currently overstocked with small fish but fish are happy and I have no problems. <<For the moment.>>
My internal filter's filtering capacity is 220-570l/h and 30% weekly water changes keep the whole tank and fish in good condition. <<I would just proffer that water changes can not eliminate the social problems of overcrowding - imagine living in a shower-stall with 10 of your friends - sure you can all get clean... but there would certainly be problems.>> I started to plant some small live plants that don't grow too much a couple of weeks ago and they seem to go well.
I keep the light on for 10 hours daily. I was wondering if my lighting capacity is enough (2X18W) or if I need to change the lights with some stronger ones. <<You mean specifically for the plants? Depends on the needs of the plants you purchased.>> I also noticed that fish show different colors in my pet shop and when I bring them home they look different. A recent example is a small platy that I bought last week. It looked bright red in the pet shop and its orange in my tank !! <<Perhaps get the same bulbs they use at the store, if the change in coloration is a concern.>>
Thank you in advance for your help, George
<<Cheers, J -- >>

Filtration, aeration, circulation
Dear Jason,
<<Hello...>>
I have read here and elsewhere that there are (at least) three things that I will want to do to the water in my freshwater tank: filter it, aerate it, and circulate it. <<Sure.>> For the filtering aspect I plan to get an Eheim 2233 Ecco filter for my 30 gallon tank. Is that a good filter? <<Yes.>> My question concerns the aerating and circulating aspects. It seems to me that a bubble rod or an airstone running from an air pump would not only aerate the water but also circulate it. Is that correct or do I need to run some additional device to circulate the water? <<It is correct, but may not be sufficient on its own... you should probably augment with a powerhead.>> If the answer is that I need another device, could you provide the specifics of what I would need? <<Depends on the size of the tank, the size of your budget, and the animals you are keeping in the tank.>> (I read that the Eheim is not that great at circulating the water.) <<I'm not sure I agree... if it weren't any good at circulating water, then it wouldn't be a good filter either. I'm sure this will do fine, although you could easily add another powerhead if this doesn't seem adequate once the tank is set up.>>
Many thanks for your help.
Judy
<<Cheers, J -- >>

Please advise!! (freshwater set-up)
First, I would like to thank you for your website and all of its useful information. I am setting up a 60 gallon freshwater tank. I have a power filter and was given a undergravel filter with powerhead. Should I
be using both systems or is the power filter enough?

How many filters should you have for this size tank?
<For a 60, I would probably have just what you have (a powerfilter and powerhead operated U.G. filter). You may need two powerheads for the U.G. depending on its layout.>
Also I am in love Mormyrids, I would like to have one in my aquarium and was wondering what other types of fish would be good tankmates?
<Please see here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/mormyrids.htm>
Thank you for your time.
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Filtration of various sorts in FW tanks
I have recently been in yet another thread on the desirability of "high tech" filtration where great emphasis is placed on the type model and attachments vs light/mechanical filtration largely dependent on a mature well planted aquarium.
>From reading your various articles and replys, it would seem that you (collectively) are proponents of the high tech approach. Thus it should be simple for you to answer my questions.
<hmmm... I honestly would disagree with this assumption and proffer the explanation that one needs to understand the enormity of this site (~300 megs!!! with literally thousands of pages of text) encompasses many years of FAQs and articles. Indeed... advice varies per situation and changes as our collective knowledge of aquarium science evolves. Bob, Steven and I are adamant proponents of natural aquarium systems (live rock and sand for marine aquaria and plants for FW systems). Many aquarists that seek advice however have/want big fish or overstocked systems which may require supplemental filtration like Wet Dry filtration>
Are there any studies done on the role of overall tank nitrification contributed by the different models of filter.
. We'll be grateful to have the report for posting on this site and for our aquatic science e-zine.>
By this I mean, how much of the total nitrification in a fresh water tank does each type filter contribute as independent from the biological filtration at work in a cycled tank.
<it is limited by the load put upon it assuming the population of nitrifiers themselves are not limited by media surface area or sources of ammonia/nitrogen>
It doesn't even have to be a planted cycled tank, I just want to see some reliable (preferably not from the filter manufacturers themselves) study results in regard to comparing the different brands of filter with a moderate to heavy fish load.
<Alas... Our industry has no large consumer watchdogs or like groups conducting such studies>
If you were to take each filter, and stick it on a new tank (holding size of tank constant) and put a moderate to heavy fish load in the tank (holding size and type of fish constant), what would be the results? I would even agree that a filter could be "pre-cycled" before use.
<hmmm... is this a hobby for you or a science? Both are great fun... but searching through hobby venues for scientific data on hobby equipment/brands is indeed challenging>
I'm thinking that these studies must have been done somewhere along the line, especially from the population of filter fanatics after the publication of Walstead's book. I have not run across anything more recent (in the way of truly controlled stu