
|
|
FAQs on Tubifex, Tubificids, & Other Worms as Foods,
& Their Feeding, Nutrition for Freshwater Systems
Related Articles: Foods, Feeding, Aquatic
Nutrition, Basic
Fish Nutrition by Pablo Tepoot
Related FAQs:
Foods, Feeding and Nutrition, Aquarium
Maintenance, Culture of FW Food
Organisms,
|
|
Fry and Microworms 6/7/09
Hello!
I read through a lot of different pages and through your site about
microworms. I noticed that some of them can be detrimental to fish
health while others are good as food.
<Microworms, the species Panagrellus redivivus, are nematodes and a
completely safe fish food. Are you confusing Panagrellus redivivus with
other types of nematodes? While most nematodes are harmless, it's true
that some are parasitic and can cause disease. But the phylum Nematoda
is a big group, comparable in diversity to the phylum Chordata, into
which we belong, along with snakes, fish and sea squirts!>
I recently started raising Betta fry and I use microworms to feed them.
I am just curious, If a microworm is longer than my fry, will it be bad
for them?
<It won't harm them, but when it dies, it'll pollute the tank, lowering
water quality, so indirectly that's a bad thing. So yes, you need to
sort your microworms before use, putting only sufficient in for feeding
your
fish.>
I also found microworms in a tank where I did not intend for them to be
in.
Are they the food type ones or the bad ones?
<Can't possibly tell for sure, but almost certainly they're harmless
free-living nematodes likely present in most aquaria.>
If they are bad for the fry should I move my fry to another tank then?
Thanks
<Cheers, Neale.>
Emergency! - dead
worms and cloudy water (understanding BOD!), & FW puffer fdg.
02/06/09 After years of healthy fish and clean water, suddenly
yesterday my tank was cloudy like I've never seen it before. I thought it was a
temporary die-off of bacteria -about 3 days earlier, I had removed one of those
Purigen filter bags to bleach and soak it (did not put it back in yet), but
there were still regular filter pads in there. Two days earlier, I had also
put in some blackworms for my puffer to eat as usual - they had all situated
themselves nicely in the substrate like they always do, didn't seem to be any
problems. Well yesterday the worms had scattered all over the tank as if in
distress. Today they were almost all dead and disintegrated and the water was
really foul. All the fish were at the top looking for air. Was this due to
(a) lack of oxygen due to cycle being all messed up from filter bag removal or
(b) maybe the worms were diseased and when they died they set off an ammonia
spike? I have changed half the water, am probably going to change another half
tomorrow and start to get rid of the worm remains. Fish all seem to be still
alive somehow. Thanks for your prompt response! Bob <Hello Bob. It is NEVER
a good idea to add live food (or any other kind of food, other than plant
material) to a tank that is not consumed within 5 minutes. Not ever. The reasons
why your live food in this case died and caused problems is difficult to say,
but the point is that the situation should never have arisen in the first place.
Yes, when live food dies it causes the oxygen content of the water to drop.
There's something called the Biological Oxygen Demand (or BOD) that encompasses
not just the oxygen used by animals and plants, but also things like bacteria
and fungi. Decay is a major element of this, and the more decay there is, the
higher the BOD. If BOD exceeds the amount of oxygen in the water, you get an
oxygen crisis, and things can die unless they can supplement their oxygen by
breathing air. Lungfish and Gouramis for example are masters of this latter art,
but Puffers can't do it, and obviously any bacteria stuck inside a (closed)
filter can't do it either. If filter bacteria die, ammonia and nitrite
processing decreases, and water quality drops. So, the "fix" here is to do a big
water change to flush out any ammonia and nitrite, clean the substrate to remove
as much decaying organic matter as possible, and then make jolly sure you don't
add too much live food ever again! If you have excess live food, store it in a
container of water in a cool place. Add a bit at a time, just enough for your
fish to be nicely fed but not gorged so much it swells up. Puffers should look
lean, with a gently rounded belly, and should NOT look like they swallowed a
bowling ball. As for the filters, all else being equal they should bounce back
within a day or two. Rinse any media gently in a bucket of aquarium water, and
then put the filter back together. No long-term harm should happen. Cheers,
Neale.>
Re: emergency! - dead worms and
cloudy water (understanding BOD!), & FW puffer fdg. 02/06/09
thanks! <Happy to help.> I feel horrible. <Oh?> To explain, I have
never had luck keeping my worms in the fridge. <Don't bother.> Despite
changing the bit of water they soaked in daily the worms always died and messed
up my whole fridge. <Indeed.> Therefore I have always "hidden" live food
under a rock covered in java fern in the corner of the tank where even the
puffer could only access a few worms at a time, and this has worked for years.
<Ah...> However this time the new store I went to gave me too many worms
(twice the normal amount), and I think maybe this caused the BOD problem you
refer to. Maybe I'll try again with the cool storage especially after this
problem. I hope everything stabilizes soon. Thank you. <Why not buy
frozen? (As opposed to freeze dried.) Safer, cleaner, cheaper. Puffers take
to frozen food without complaint. You can also offer a variety of things:
bloodworms, blackworms, glassworms, etc. More variety = better health. You don't
need live foods. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: emergency! - dead worms and
cloudy water (understanding BOD!), & FW puffer fdg. 02/06/09
This has been an ongoing war for years with my puffer. He simply does not do
frozen. I have starved him for months feeding only frozen and he hates it. He
spits it out and then finally loses interest altogether. My LFS guy said, he'll
eat it if he's hungry enough but I have never seen any evidence of this even
when he's emaciated. This is a very entitled and privileged animal. <Made a
rod for your own back here. Do try bloodworms. My puffers (including Dwarves,
Red-tails and South Americans) love them. Offer alongside the live food, mixed
in. While feeding on the one, they'll likely take the other. Switch brands. Some
seem more palatable than others. My puffers are less keen on glassworms and
mosquito larvae than bloodworms. Also try hand-feeding, using forceps. Wriggle
the food about enticingly. Generally, puffers *will* eat if they're hungry
enough. Never seen one refuse! What kind of puffer is it? Cheers, Neale.>
Re: emergency! - dead worms and
cloudy water (understanding BOD!), & FW puffer fdg. - Part 3
02/06/09 It's a dwarf. Forceps, are you serious?! Wow, high
maintenance, this one. <Yep. Deadly serious. I feed many of my fish this way.
Besides helping to "tame" them (i.e., to settle into captive life and view
humans as friends, not giant predators) it's also a way to make frozen/dead food
more "interesting", so they take it readily.> If I'm not mistaken I tried
frozen bloodworms - in those compartmentalized plastic chambers? <Yes.> Is
there a brand you recommend? <Any should be fine to start with, but look for
"mini bloodworms" given the species you have; the big bloodworms might be too
tough. Don't thaw them in warm water: let them defrost slowly. I find thawing
them quickly sometimes does something to the flavour, and the fish are less
keen. But do, please, try mixing bloodworms with the live mosquito larvae. Once
they're in a feeding frame of mind, they may well peck at anything.> Also I
tried frozen shrimp. He also got a few snails here and there, till they became
hard to find. <Indeed.> Thanks so much for all advice, the fish are
already swimming around better after I changed most of the water. <Cool. Good
luck, Neale.>
Tubifex worms?? Vectors of
dis. – 02/07/08
Hello,
<Hi there>
I have a 40 gallon with a black moor and a red wide bellied goldfish and two
apple snails. My mother came over with some worms she wanted to feed my fish.
<Mmm, I would not>
She buys them for her Betta. They were alive and I believe they may be called
tubiflex?
<Tubificids at least... Tubifex maybe>
They are a bit pink,
skinny and long. Well, my fish didn't eat it (she only put in one) and every
week when I do my water change, I vacuum a few up. The problem is one of my
fishes (the moor) is very susceptible to diseases. He has been sick since the
day I got him and I finally got rid of his last problem of fin rot, it is
healing, now the other GF is starting to show signs of rot as well and starting
to hide. When we did this weeks water change a ton of these little worms were
vacuumed up and our water reading has spiked in Nitrates (in the red, can't tell
which one exactly).
<Mmmm>
Today I stirred up the rock and there are a ton more of these little worms. I do
weekly water changes at 10 gal for a 40 gal tank.
<Good>
Water testing is usually always good if not up the changes till back to normal.
I want to add a little salt to help heal the fin rot ( don't want to medicate
AGAIN :-( over medicate??)
<Easily done>
but not too much to hurt the snails. 1. will this work? and 2. how do I get rid
of these worms making my nitrates spike W/O killing my snails (copper)? Thank
you so much for your time and have a wonderful day!
<No to the copper... will kill your snails. I would continue with your water
changes, gravel vacuuming... and add some more filtration (perhaps an outside
power filter) to aid in cycling wastes here... Please read:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwnitrates.htm
and the linked files above. The worms will likely die out in time of their own
accord, any pathogens with them losing their danger. Bob Fenner>
Re: Tubifex worms??
2/8/08
Hello Bob,
<Smiley>
Thank you for your quick response. :) I have to tell you guys that this forum
has been a great resource for me and helping my lil Bob.. :)
<Ah, and me, Big Bob, as well>
I guess I should have mentioned that I am running two 150 Penguin Bio-wheels and
extra carbon. And change those filters once a month with the weekly 10 gal water
change.
<Ah, good>
The one worm was feed to my kids about 4 or so months ago. How long will it take
for these worms to die out?
<Should be any time now>
:(As mentioned at first I would see a few floating up in the vacuum and didn't
even think they were from the worm added to the tank. They kinda looked like
constipation poop (so I feed peas) Then just over the last 2-3 weeks they
multiplied.. I mean TONS. I hope they die out soon. I really don't think I can
keep up with them and daily vacuuming/water changes.
<Actually... "clean" ones are very good for your system... will help keep it
viable>
I took the snails out last night and have them in a Betta bowl. Gave the kids a
salt dip, another water change and added .01% salt to the tank. I haven't fed
them either. Stirring up the rocks and they are both eating the worms when one
floats near their mouths. My lil guy (red GF) still goes to hide. Should I do
the dip again today? Add back in the snails?? Sorry, I am a big worry wort.
<If it were me, mine, I'd leave all as is>
Thanks again for all that you guys/gals do :)~
<Welcome my friend. BobF>
Livebearer beh. and
hi there,
can you help with a couple of questions?
<Will try.>
firstly can tropical fish eat earthworms from the garden? 2/4/08
<Yes, assuming your garden is "organic" -- any pesticides used, and even
some fertilisers, are deadly toxins to fish. If in doubt, don't bother. But
earthworms make a great food for mid- to large-sized predators.>
also I have just added 3 silver molly (1 male, 2 female) to my tank of 6 platy,
the problem is that one specific platy (he's about 2" long with a huge dorsal
fin, so I assume he is mature) well he is quite intent on chasing the mollies
around the tank basically all the time, he will chase both the male and the
female, is this normal or is he being overly aggressive,
<Absolutely typical. I'm guessing your tank is relatively small (less than 200
litres) in which case males of all livebearer species can be assumed to be more
or less aggressive and intolerant of other males and unreceptive females.>
the ratio of the platies is the same as the mollies 2-1 so he is not starved of
females.
<While it always helps to have more females, this really only becomes effective
when you have big schools of fish in nice roomy aquaria. If you have just half a
dozen livebearers in a small aquarium, the males can be troublesome.>
any advice would be great, cheers!
David
<Please send a message with capital letters next time! It's one of the house
rules for the benefit of other readers, not all of whom speak English natively,
and rely on good grammar to make sense of things. Cheers, Neale.>
Loaches and worms... Logan by
any other name... fdg. again 12/5/07
Hi, how do you feed clown loaches worms without other fishes eating it?
Thanks for all your help and advice.
<Christopher, don't bother with the worms. Waste of time. Just go with
good-quality catfish pellets and algae wafers, in equal amounts, at night.
Clowns feed at night, your other fish likely don't. Repeat as required, adding
suitable veggies like tinned peas and Sushi Nori and cucumber to the mix
periodically. Clowns will thrive on this sort of diet. Cheers, Neale.>
... Hi, which worms are
nutritious and cheap? FW fdg.... 12/5/07
<Contradiction in terms. Nutritious, safe food by definition is more
expensive than useless, disease-risky food. If you're talking about all-round
value for money, it's hard to argue with (wet) frozen bloodworms. Most fish love
them. All live foods come with some degree of risk, with the possible exception
of brine shrimp, but essentially they're a gimmick for 95% of the freshwater
fish sold. We use them because it's fun, not because the fish need them. So if
money is an issue, skip live food and concentrate on nutritious frozen and
prepared foods.>
About how much are they?
<Over here in England, around £2-3 per package.>
Also, how many and how often should I feed my fishes?
<I use one block (about a tablespoon of worms, I guess, when thawed out) for a
busy 180 litre community tank PLUS two lightly stocked 30 litre tanks. Per day.
In other words, not much food is required. Far less than inexperienced aquarists
often suppose.>
I have 5 danios, 2 swordtails, 1 platy, 2 balloon platy, 3 loaches, and 1
Bristlenose Pleco that live in a 50 gallon tank.
<None of these fish *need* bloodworms. Flake plus pellets will do for all of
them, and the Platies, Plec, and Loaches will further appreciate (REQUIRE!)
algae-based foods for good health, such as Algae wafers.>
Last, how do I take care of the worms and is it easy to breed them without
having to buy another 50 gallon or so tank?
<Don't bother.>
Thanks for your advice and tips.
<Cheers, Neale.>
|
|