FAQs on Guppy
Disease Treatments
FAQs on Guppy Disease:
Guppy Disease 1,
Guppy Disease 2,
Guppy Disease 3,
Guppy Disease 4,
Guppy
Disease 5,
Guppy Disease 6,
Guppy Disease 7, Guppy Disease ,
FAQs on Guppy Disease by Category:
Environmental,
Nutritional (e.g. HLLE),
Social,
Infectious (Virus, Bacterial, Fungal),
Parasitic (Ich, Velvet...),
Genetic,
Related Articles:
Guppies,
Poeciliids:
Guppies, Platies, Swordtails, Mollies by Neale Monks,
Livebearing Fishes by Bob
Fenner,
Related FAQs:
Guppies 1,
Guppies
2, Guppy Identification,
Guppy Behavior,
Guppy Compatibility,
Guppy Selection,
Guppy Systems,
Guppy Feeding,
Guppy Reproduction,
Livebearers,
Platies,
Swordtails,
Mollies,
|
As always: CHECK water quality first... where, when in
doubt, CHANGE WATER.
Some salt/s can be of use.
|
Guppy Stringy Poop 1/9/12
Hi Neale, how are you?
<Busy!>
I have a male guppy that I've owned for over a year. For the past 6
months he has been in a 2.5 gallon tank by himself, because he
doesn't fit with the fish in my display tank (he attacks the honey
gourami, the Rasboras attack him).
<Yes; as often point out here, fancy Guppies best kept on their own.
Corydoras make good companions though, and Kuhli Loaches. Red Cherry
shrimps too. Basically anything that sticks to the bottom of the tank
and can't bite or harass the Guppies.>
I was trying to re-home the guppy but with no luck, so that's why
he is still in the small tank. Because of the size of the tank, I do
40% weekly water changes. I have a small HOB filter and a
non-adjustable heater that keeps the tank at 78 F.
<I see. Not ideal, as you realise, but perhaps the best you can do
under the circumstances.>
So this past Thursday morning, the guppy wasn't eating properly; he
kept spitting the food out, maybe eating just a little. Thursday night
I did a water change. Friday morning he ate the same way and was mostly
keeping to the bottom of the tank.
<Interesting. Did you check water temperature? Water
chemistry?>
I tested the water Friday; Ammonia and Nitrites 0, Nitrate 5ppm.
<Sounds fine.>
Saturday morning he had a long white stringy poopy attached to him,
longer than his body. He was swimming around slowly. I thought maybe he
was constipated. I fed him a tiny bit of freeze dried brine shrimp that
has Spirulina added to it, and he ate it. I also gave him a smashed
pea, and he nibbled it. Afterwards he began to swim around actively
that day and night.
<Okay'¦>
Now today, another white stringy poopy attached.
<What sort of texture? Slimy, white, translucent faeces tend to be
rich in mucous, and can imply something like parasites irritating the
gut, hence the production of extra mucous. If the faeces are opaque,
solid, dense-looking, perhaps coloured with the food eaten, then
constipation and/or dietary issues could explain things.>
I offered him a flake and a pea but he won't eat. He is swimming
around slowly, and his breath looks a little labored.
<Not good.>
I don't know what to do for him! I started to read that the poop
may be a sign of parasites, but he is in the tank alone, and I have not
introduced anything new to his tank. Do you have any advice?
<Do see above re: colour, texture of mucous. The commonest gut
parasites are Protozoans, and treating as per Hexamita with
Metronidazole can be useful.>
-Lorie
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Guppy Stringy Poop 1/9/12
Hi Neale, thank you for your response. As far as the feces, it's
hard to tell if they look slimy. He has another one today. It's
long and thin and entirely white. Some tiny bits look solid, while most
of it looks fuzzy and see through. So I'm thinking parasites, yes?
But how would he have gotten them? Will the medication kill him?
He's not eating, but he is swimming around slowly. If it is
parasites, then I'm assuming they're contagious? I share
equipment (buckets, gravel vacuum, etc.) between the 2 tanks. Thanks
again! -Lorie
<Do use Metronidazole; this should help. Used correctly won't
harm your Guppies. Treat the tank, and ideally both tanks though
usually such parasites affect weakened fish rather than everything
indiscriminately.
Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Guppy Stringy Poop 1/9/12
OK. Thank you so much Neale! -Lorie
<Most welcome. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Guppy Stringy Poop 1/12/12
Hi again Neale. I have some questions now on the Metronidazole. I
purchased the Seachem brand, which is a powder, and it says the
measuring spoon that comes with it is about 100mg.
<Okay.>
I treated my tank the past two days, estimating 62.5mg for the 2.5 gal.
tank.
<I see. Do understand than 2.5 gallons likely won't provide good
conditions. And poor conditions will make medication less
effective.
Obviously carbon removes medications as well, so it's important to
review filtration beforehand.>
My guppy seems improved; no more stringy poop and he is starting to
eat. I was planning a third and final dose tonight. My question is;
I'm reading to fully eradicate the parasites, the fish should be
fed the medicine.
<Ideally, yes. A vet would recommend a certain dose proportional to
the weight of the fish.>
On WetWebMedia, I read the food should be soaked in a 1% solution. How
do I make a 1% solution with a 100mg measuring spoon?
<To be honest, I wouldn't. I'd use the dosing as described
by Seachem. If you've been using that so far, finish off that
way.>
I also read 4 oz. of food per 1/2 teaspoon of Metronidazole; will that
work as well?
<No idea. I don't like/recommend the use of "spoon"
measurements.>
Then like the article on WetWebMedia states, I'll soak for a few
hours in the fridge; can I use flake or freeze dried food? Just one
feeding is sufficient? Also, you recommended I treat my main tank as
well, but the fish look and act healthy, so I haven't done this
yet. I don't want to cross contaminate though so I'm
considering treating my main tank, but would it be best to treat the
water, feed them the treated food, or both?
Thank you! -Lorie
<Do read the Seachem site. It specifically states two ways to use
their medication, either in the water or mixed with wet-frozen food
paste. Both approaches look easy.
http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/Metronidazole.html
Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Guppy Stringy Poop 1/23/11
Hello Neale; I hope this email finds you well. I am writing you again
in regards to the use of Metronidazole. I used this medicine in my 2.5
gal tank for a guppy with internal parasites and he has improved (I
wrote you earlier explaining I was trying to re-home the guppy because
he is not compatible in my community tank; so for now, the 2.5 gal is
the best I can do. I perform 50% water changes weekly and have scaled
back feedings to once per day). You had recommended I treat my display
tank as well, since I share equipment between the two tanks, so I
treated the display tank only once. I have 1 Honey Gourami and 3
Corydoras in that tank (I re-homed my Harlequin Rasboras; my display
tank is 10 gal. and through observation, I concluded the Rasboras need
a longer tank to swim back and forth). Seven days after treatment, one
of my peppered Corys is lethargic. I don't see any physical
abnormalities. I have since performed two large water changes of about
40-50% a piece, rinsed the filter media (sponges), added a bubbler-
would the extra oxygen be helpful?, and have scaled back feedings to
once per day. The Cory has been lethargic for 5 days now. He was
breathing shallow this morning but did eat a pellet- is that a good
sign?
After eating, he began breathing hard though. My question here is- do
you believe it's possible the Metro adversely affected this Cory?
Is there anything else you recommend I do for the Cory? I tested my
Nitrates this past Sunday and they were 15-20 ppm. Thank you for any
help you can provide. I find your vast knowledge of animals impressive
and your patience is very much appreciated. : ) -Lorie
<Catfish sometimes react badly to medications, particularly copper,
but I don't think that's the issue here. One problem for
Corydoras is that they're low-end tropical species, especially
Peppered Corydoras which really are best kept around 18-22 C/64-72 F,
which is much cooler than the average tropical aquarium. Couple this
with the use of medication and what is rather a small aquarium, and you
could simply be seeing respiratory distress. In other words, yes,
adding a bubbler would help if it was placed at the bottom of the tank
(bubblers work by drawing water from the bottom to the top, not by
mixing air with water). Lowering the temperature, if possible, and
increasing overall water turnover rate would also be useful.
Corydoras are generally hardy fish, but inbreeding has meant that their
quality varies, and sometimes they fail to thrive even in
well-maintained aquaria. Occasionally, diseases such as Red Blotch
Disease (which I've recently written about for FishChannel.com) can
cause problems as well.
Cheers, Neale.>
Re: (Guppy Stringy Poop) Peppered Corydoras, Other Factors?
2/15/12
Hi Neale, how are you?
<Well, thank you.>
I wrote you in January about my Guppy, who showed signs of Hexamita. He
was in a 2.5 gallon aquarium, and I explained to you how that was
supposed to be a temporary tank until I could re-home him.
<Indeed.>
I treated him with Metro for 3 days and he seemed to recover
completely.
<Good.>
I continued with weekly water changes of 40-50% and feeding once per
day. I tested the water in January and Ammonia and Nitrite were zero,
and Nitrates 5 ppm. I had switched to Marineland bonded filter pads
from using poly-fiber. The filter on the 2.5 gallon tank is a small HOB
power filter made by Red Sea with an adjustable flow. It has a small
cloth insert that stays inside the filter, which I'm assuming is
the biological filtration,
<Possibly, though some of these "pads" are chemical
filters, e.g., Carbon.>
so I thought it was safe to completely remove the poly-fiber and
replace it with the bonded filter pad. It was after this switch my
Guppy became ill with Hexamita; I don't know if there is a
connection (at this point I had my Guppy for 1 year and 2 months). I
also changed the filter media to the bonded filter pad on my display
tank (which has a bio-wheel in the filter) and an Albino Corydoras died
a week later; at the time my Nitrates had spiked (30 ppm), so I
attributed the death to Nitrates (Ammonia and Nitrite 0). After
treating the display tank with Metro for good measure, a Peppered Cory
then died a week later.
<Oh.>
I could not figure out why the Peppered Cory passed (Ammonia and
Nitrite still 0, Nitrates now 10 ppm).
<May simply be unrelated. Albino fish aren't as hardy as the
real McCoy, so to some degree there's an element of
unpredictability.>
I added a bubbler to the display tank (which is 10 gallons). I have 2
Corys and 1 Honey Gourami in that tank. Since my issues began when I
switched filter media, I recently returned to the poly-fiber (again, I
don't know if there is a connection or not. Are you aware of any
issues with Marineland bonded filter pads?).
<No.>
In my 2.5 gallon tank with the Guppy, I switched out half the filter
media for the new, and a week later switched out the rest along with
the usual weekly water change, which took place this past Wednesday.
Sunday, my guppy did not come for his morning feeding right away, which
is not normal.
He did eat eventually but spent a large bulk of the day hiding. Monday
he was slow to come out for food again, and once he did, he almost
seemed senile. Like he didn't see the food and just wasn't with
it, and once he finally found it, he struggled to grasp the flakes.
<When fish aren't hungry, don't feed them, and remove
uneaten food. If water quality is a problem, adding food won't
help.>
He did eat though and I took the opportunity to observe him. I think I
saw a slight reddish coloring near his gill but I'm not 100% sure.
He seemed like he had a lack of energy and hid the rest of the day. I
performed a water change and added some aquarium salt to the new water
before adding it to the tank. That evening I put a fish net in his tank
and slightly agitated it in the water, to see if i could get his
attention to try feeding him, but he did not respond. So I put the wet
fish net in a bucket I use strictly for the fish and let it sit there
overnight. This morning my Guppy was dead : ( I took him out with the
fish net and observed him to see if I could detect any abnormalities.
That's when I noticed, on the outside of the net, there was a worm
crawling- it was tan and thin, less than 1/2 an inch long, had many
legs like a caterpillar, and a brown "nose".
<Unlikely to be the cause of death, though possible. Intestinal
worms don't have any appendages at all, so if you saw
"legs", then it wasn't a nematode, planarian or tapeworm.
Worms with legs (Polychaetes) aren't common in freshwater so when
you see leggy worms in freshwater aquaria, they're usually aquatic
insect larvae. As you rightly suppose, like caterpillars.>
I did not see any worms in the tank. Given the history here, would you
know what this worm is, and could it be connected to the Guppy
dying?
<Think not.>
Any other ideas or helpful information you could impart?
<Do think your problems are down to a combination of small tanks and
less than fortunate stocking. Even when water conditions look good, the
simple fact is that small tanks aren't reliable in the sense of
offering stable conditions. Concentrate on the 10 gallon tank (use the
2.5 gallon system for snails or shrimps if you must) and stick with
species that generally do not have health problems (i.e., not fancy
Guppies or albino community fish, but instead something like a school
of White Cloud Mountain Minnows or a pair of Florida Flagfish, both
viable options for 10-gallon tanks and in centrally-heated homes may
not even need a heater. They aren't fussy about water chemistry
either. Otherwise, check water chemistry and temperature, and select
species accordingly.>
I forgot to mention, the Guppy's mouth area also looked like it was
turning black. Thank you very much- Lorie
<Hope this helps, Neale.>
Re: (Guppy Stringy Poop) Peppered Corydoras, Other
Factors?
Thanks Neale, it helps a lot! -Lorie
<Real good. Have fun, Neale.>
New Guppies dying, not sure which medication to use
1/16/13
Hello, I am sorry to have to email, but I am not sure what course of
action to take next.
We bought 8 guppies (and some danios) 3 weeks ago and now have 3 left,
but they seem to be suffering both hemorrhagic septicaemia and fungal
infections/fin rot, the problem is the fungal/fin rot medication says I
cannot use it with other medications, and since those problems started
first I am already using this in the tank.
The details:
We just moved into our first house so were able to buy a much better
home for our platys and danios (housed in a 23 l Fluval edge that they
outgrew, but which was perfect sized for our rented flat). We bought a
180 l Juwel Rio.
We set up the Rio on 8 Dec 2012 (with cold water from hose) and left the
heater to bring the water to room temp overnight and the filter to clear
up the water before buying 6 plants to add the next day (2 spiral
grasses, 3 Amazon swords and 1 Bacopa caroliniana [I think]) and adding
6 pieces of aquarium driftwood (from the LFS soaked for an hour). In the
middle of the week I added another 3 plants (including another spiral
grass and 1 elodea).
<The last may be a coldwater (not tropical) species>
At the weekend (tank 1 week running) we fetched the old tank and our
fish from the parents (who had not changed the water in the 2 months
they had it and at that point we learned we had lost the bully Danio)
and added all the old substrate into the tank, added the old filter
material to the 1 week-old Rio filter, moved the decorations and the old
plants into the tank and then acclimatised our fish (4 female platies
and now 3 zebra danios).
<Good>
Over the next week we kept an eye on our fish and all seemed well, so I
went to the LFS to stock our Danio numbers back to 6+ to calm them down
a bit and make them school/shoal. I chose 2 pearls and another leopard,
golden and 1 longfinned zebra fish (although another sneaked into the
bag).
Whilst I was there my partner fancied some guppies so we ended up with 2
males and 6 females.
<... this, is/was your highly likely source of trouble. The
non-quarantined, probably sick Guppies>
I was told water parameters at this time were perfect, and I specifically
asked for the pH in case the driftwood was making the water too acidic
and was shown this was 7.4
At home we raised the temperature of the tank to 24 C to suit the
guppies, acclimatised the fish and released them. Strangely the guppies
and danios seemed to school together in 2 mixed groups, apart from the
free longfinned zebra who was a loner (the one I had chosen was the
bully of the tank, but also smaller than all our fish). The next morning
he was schooling with the others though.
I tried to keep an eye on the fish but it was hard with Christmas and a
house-load of guests. The tiny free Danio started hanging on his own
again, and then he stopped eating, so at the next feeding I was going to
catch him to ensure he could get some food and perhaps take him back to
the shop, but I never saw him again :(
New Year's eve we'd had the fish 10 days and after being unable to find
the Danio I checked the health of the other fish and noticed one males
tail looked a bit shorter, the noticed I couldn't see the 2nd male, and
found him in perfect condition trapped by gravel that had moved under a
decoration - I think he died from the stress of being trapped. I was
concerned about the 2nd male but had guests so couldn't do anything.
The next day I tried watching to see if he was being nipped by the
danios but couldn't see any aggression, and as the day progressed I
started to notice that the scales in front of his dorsal fin looked
raised and he appeared to have fungus on his lips. Another 2 females
appeared to have fungus on their lips, another seemed to be covered
along the dorsal side from head to dorsal fin (not including fin or
lips), and a fourth had a few spots of fungus.
I scrubbed the old tank clean and started setting it up to use as a
hospital tank but it cracked when half full, so as the shops were shut I
decided to give these fish a 5 minute salt dip. First 3 the lightly
affected females, then replaced with the male and heavily fungused
female. The first 3 swam the entire time they were in the pan, whilst
the male hardly moved and the bad female jumped out twice immediately.
When back in the tank (now slightly salted with API aquarium salt) all
seemed fine - the lip fungus was almost clear, the heavily fungused
female looked normal, but the one who had only a few specks stopped
swimming and eating and stayed 1 inch below the surface. She didn't eat
the next day but went into labour, the first seemed to take her 30 min.s
to get out completely, then she ate, then over the next few days she had
the rest but didn't eat and kept hiding. Suddenly she disappeared but I
never saw anything wrong with her.
The males tail kept getting slowly worse although his scales got better
so I added 'Love Fish Anti Fungus and Fin Rot' (only one stocked at LFS)
to the tank, and slowly increased the salt level to the 1 tablespoon per
20 l.
<Ok>
Next another fish started getting what looked like creamy worms
sticking out of her sides (maybe pus or raised scales) which
then became red at the base after a few days looking like septicaemia in
humans, her tail started to slowly rot and her side fin was
slightly frayed where the creamy/red bit was. She gave birth
during this time (again over several days) but died before having them
all.
At the weekend with no more visitors and the tank having been set up 4
weeks (fish with enough bacteria for 3 weeks, new fish for 2 weeks) and
I decided it was time for a water change and thorough tank cleaning. I
changed 30 %. 2 days later I cam home from work and a female who had
been healthy at the morning check had only half a tail and all fins were
frayed.
I added the salt I hadn't replaced at the weekend. The next morning she
had no tail and I was scared I had caused an ammonia spike by
over-cleaning the tank and filter and by over-feeding trying to get the
male to eat. When I came home I therefore did another 30 % water change
(but the filter wool was brown and slimy again), but the next morning I
found her immediately nipped by a Danio when I flushed her out to check
she was still alive. I bought water testing kits when I could and tested
my water: nothing wrong (see below) but unsurprisingly lost this female
and the male (found the male first). When I found the (heavily pregnant)
female she was covered in a hairy white mould: is this normal ?? ( - she
had lost all colour - perhaps had been dead >24 hours?)
<Not normal... this all reads as symptomatic of
Chondrococcus/Columnaris... see WWM, the Net, books re>
Now the 2 healthiest females are showing symptoms. The first started
getting the creamy/raised scale things, and has slowly been developing
the red dots (including on her lips). They both looked like they had
septicaemia, but one cleared up whilst the other got worse. She is now
hiding, and her tails seems to be splitting along the rays in the centre
and has a white ?fungus? speck on her tail, and she seems to not want to
fight for food, although she tries. She has also just given birth.
The female that had the cleared-up red dots and the one which had lots
of fungus seem to be fine, but are both coming close to giving birth.
Questions:
Should I continue treating for fin rot/fungus or move onto anti-internal
bacteria to treat the septicaemia [I can't do both at once :( ].
<See where you've been referred. Only certain antibiotics have proven of
use here>
Are these just weak guppies from the store (all my fish and the new
danios seem healthy), and if so, will their fry survive or will they
also overcome by being genetically weak? They are growing fast, eating
the flakes and are bravely teasing the danios.
<The fry may survive>
Could an issue be that the tropical fish flakes ran out and we moved
onto some goldfish flakes the parents bought?
<Not likely though perhaps a small contributing cause>
Could the haemorrhaging be bruising from the danios/platys attacking the
guppies: I haven't seen much inter-species aggression and the guppies
seem fast enough to out-run the danios, but usually just school with
them.
<Could be also a factor>
Thanks for any help and sorry this is so long.
Nicola
Water quality (4 days after the 2nd 30 % water change in 1 week).
Ammonia < 0.1 mg/l (although my water is slightly yellow from
the driftwood, so this could be 0)
Nitrites < 1 mg/l
<... the two above are toxic in any measurable quantity. Need to be 0.0.
See WWM re>
Nitrates < 10 mg/l
Chlorine < 0.8 mg/l
<Likely, hopefully chloride; not 'ine>
pH - 7
KH - 8 d
GH >= 16 d (max of scale)
<Bob Fenner>
Sick guppy? 7/1/10
Hi there
<Ave,>
I have a 30 gallon tank, cycled and planted with 3 female + 1male
Guppies, 3 female +1 male Panda Platies, 8 neon tetras
<Neons are not terribly long-lived in "London Tap" it has
to be said.>
and a few cherry shrimps. Ammonia & nitrites are zero, nitrates
around 25ppm (London water).
<All fine.>
The three female guppies have been giving birth over the past few days
(67 rescued!) but one is looking very pale, has not eaten for some days
and has begun to hover either in the air stream of the filter or more
wrongly near
the bottom of the tank and goes through periods of being pretty
lifeless.
<Yes, this can happen. Difficult to pin down the precise problem.
Stress from male attention is certainly one factor, and constant
breeding can perhaps "wear out" females in a way that
wouldn't happen in the wild.
Inbreeding, poor genetics are other factors. Parasitism is possible,
but difficult to determine.>
I separated her when I first noticed her behaviour into a little
nursery net and treated the whole tank with ESHa 2000 (her eyes
appeared a little large and I feared pop eye).
<Not sure eSHa 2000 would have any impact on Pop-eye, and overuse of
medications simply adds another variable to the problem. Remember, all
medications are toxins, stressful, at some level.>
I then gave her a 5 minute dip in some methyl blue and returned her to
the big tank.
<Again, why?>
I'm not sure what to do next and my only conclusion is that perhaps
there is not enough oxygen despite the water flow from the
filter/aeration device being on full - the tank has been around 82F due
to the hot weather here in
London.
<Shouldn't be causing Guppies undue problems.>
Anything else I could be doing?
<Not really. Isolating the female so she can rest, feed apart from
the male is a good idea, but small floating traps can be intensely
stressful, so I'd avoid those. The larger clip-on ones are somewhat
better.>
Many thanks
Pat
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Sick guppy? 7/1/10
Dear Neale
<Patrick,>
Thanks for all your continued feedback, I am learning if somewhat
slowly!
<Cool.>
Advice/suggestions all taken onboard with much eagerness.
<Glad to hear it!>
Just to let you know, the oddly behaving guppy delivered 32 baby fry
this morning (hence the loss of colour and lack of eating). I've
certainly learned that not all guppies are made the same! Behaviour is
different with each individual.
<Indeed. Also, because of inbreeding and domestication, predicting
behaviour and hardiness is very difficult. The addition of a little
salt can help with Guppies, 0.5-1 teaspoon per litre being ideal, but
that does depend on their tankmates.>
kindest regards,
Patrick
<Cheers, Neale.>
Guppy question, sel. sys., dis.
2/17/08 I've had guppies for years and stopped and restarted a
few times, out of frustration of how delicate the females are. <Of
all fish species... this standard used to be rock solid... the touchy
stock from the Far East has ruined a good deal of the hobby the last
decades> I also have a 30gallon planted tank with co2 and such, so
I'm not quite a beginner. I have almost enough salt to be
considered brackish, think between 1Tbls/5gallon to 1Tbls/10gallon.
This is a planted eclipse hex 5 gallon. <Small... hard to keep
stable... and with the salt... easy for nitrification to vacillate>
I have/had 5 females and 4 males. I think I even had another female but
she died back 2 months ago. They are all fancy guppies, so delicate it
seems. I got them from two different stores, one being PetSmart
(sorry). I've had 2 females die now in the past day. I just did a
water change 3 days ago, about 20%, as usual for every other to maybe
ever week. The two that died were very pregnant and one of them and
possibly the other looked like they were about to give birth (both were
hanging out down on the gravel or plants being alone). With that
background out of the way, is there anything else I can do to make the
females more comfortable and less likely to die? <Yes... see
below> This is a constant problem and I only got these fish 2 months
ago and already have lost almost half my original females. The temp is
usually at 76 but can go up to 79 (the eclipse light always has a
tendency of heating the tank up if the room is mildly warm). But lately
it hasn't been. Is my tank too crowded maybe too? <Is a factor,
yes> They seem happy otherwise. Should I instead be buying more
reliable females, <Yes> is it possible I've just had bad luck
with the ones I bought? <Mmm, not entirely, no> I think the ones
that died today were both from PetSmart if that matters. It's just
demoralizing. Thanks for any information. -Erin <Too many Poecilia
reticulata on the market are infested with Hexamita (perennially) and
Columnaris (seasonally, and in more erratic punctuated fashion)...
Guarding against the introduction of these diseases can be accomplished
only through careful exclusion/quarantining of all incoming
livestock... and treatment with antiprotozoal (Metronidazole often) and
possibly antimicrobial (most celebratedly Neomycin...). You might have
"luck" with buying/selecting better stock from another
source... but I would still at least isolate it for a good two weeks
(to weaken pathogens) before introduction to your main displays...
Having a larger system would be of great benefit here as well as
bolstering the fishs' immune systems through improved nutrition...
Do see the Net re the disease organisms mentioned... they can be
defeated, excluded... Bob Fenner>
Clear blisters on guppies head 2/27/08
Hi, I have a question concerning my guppies. I have a 55 gallon tank
with to many guppies to and mollies to count. I use a Aqua Tech power
filter, which is only for a 40 gallon tank, but also use another power
filter with it, that is for a 20 gallon tank. I make sure everyday the
water temperature is stable, and have had these fish for many years.
However several of my guppies have developed a severe curved spine,
which I thought was maybe inherited. It started with one male with a
curved spine, and then some of my females babies were born looking just
like him. Now one of my male guppies has a big clear blister on top of
his head. (looks like a poison ivy blister). He has been like this for
months and it appears to be getting bigger and bigger. He still eats
and swims around like nothing is wrong. But I was wondering what this
is and if my other fish will catch it. I have been using Quick Cure
medicine in the tank, but it has not made any change in him. I would
greatly appreciate any recommendations you can give me. <Greetings.
The curved spine issue is likely genetic, since Fancy Guppies are very
inbred. You need to painlessly destroy any such fry to get rid of these
bad genes from the population you have. Obviously it doesn't
"get better". As for the blister, it's impossible to be
sure, but I'm guessing this is a non-contagious deformity. Again,
destroy the fish. Do be careful about randomly adding medications to
the tank before diagnosing the problem: many medications contain things
like copper that are, at some level, toxic to fish. So used sparingly
they can be helpful, but used to excess they may cause problems. Do see
our page on Euthanasia re: painless methods of destruction. Cheers,
Neale.>
Guppy Problem. Help Please!
Hi, I have read all through your site about the guppies and learned
several things I didn't know, but still didn't find the answer
to my problem I'm having, so I'm hoping that you can help me or
lead me in the right direction.
<Will do my best>
Let me start off by giving you a little history on my tank back to
about 3-4 weeks ago. Up until 3-4 weeks ago my tank had been up for a
long time (about 7 months) and doing pretty good. It's a 10 gallon
tank with heater, outside filter pump, light, hood, etc. Well, I got
some new fish and had a breakout of a fungus infection so I immediately
got a fungus clear medicine by Jungle and it cleared it up immediately.
Then 2 days after that Ich broke out in my tank so I treated that with
a different medicine.
<Mmmm, a comment for you, browsers... know that much of these
"medicines" are toxic... hard on needed, beneficial microbial
life... you may well have to watch for, adjust for nitrogenous
anomalies (ammonia, nitrite)...>
All together, most fish survived this process (I had 6 fish at the
time) so I was pretty happy. Suddenly about 3 days after stopping
treatment for everything since it was all cleared up, my fish started
dying.
<Mmmm>
3 had died in 2 days. I immediately thought it was because of the
medicine so I did a 100% water change
<Yikes!>
(not the best idea I know, but when I was changing it I noticed it was
blue from all the medicine) but I did keep some of the "muck"
from the bottom gravel to help a little bit in the cycle and I also
added a bacteria supplement.
<Good moves>
I added the fish back that same day as I do not have a QT tank and they
seemed to do pretty good. Well the next day I was able to get 10 free
guppies, only 3 adults (2 heavily pregnant females and one male), the
rest are babies and juveniles no more than about 3/4" long,
<This is very likely way too new life for such a small/newly
re-set-up volume...>
and everything still was going well. On Wednesday a few of my fish
started to get listless, most of which were the 2 very heavy pregnant
females I just got on Monday, and on Thursday I had babies! I was very
excited to say the least. But that didn't last long as all the
babies (about 70) were dead along with a male that I had had for almost
a month. So I discussed it with my
mom what could be wrong and we began to think it was our water as we
have well water and have never had it tested so to be honest I have no
idea what minerals and stuff could be in our water. So we went out and
bought some water out of a machine at a grocery store.
<Mmm, this source may well not be any more suitable...>
It's like the water you buy in the jugs, just cheaper and you have
to have your own jug. So I bought 10 gallons and did another 100% water
change
<Oh my friend...>
replaced gravel, ornaments, filter, everything, basically starting from
scratch. So there is the background on my tank, now to my fish
behavior. Starting after the one female had her babies, all the fish
began hanging at the top of the water, not gasping or anything, just
hanging out, but they had stopped eating, and still haven't eaten
yet as of today and I have put in flake food, Spirulina, and algae
chips.
<Do stop offering much of anything till you've tested your
water...>
2 fish have nibbled on the food today but that's it. I'm
frustrated and don't know what to do because they won't eat and
they aren't very
active and I can't figure out what's wrong.
As far as tank parameters: (as of today after 100% water change)
Temp: 78 degrees
I also do not have a freshwater test kit but I do have a saltwater test
kit and I have been using it hoping I could at least get a rough idea
of my ammonia and nitrite levels.
<Mmm, maybe not... Can you read re what the reagents are
here?>
However the nitrate test is a fresh/salt water test, so I can trust
that one.
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite:0
Nitrates: 0
Before the 100% water switch my nitrates were 25, which I didn't
think were good. Sorry for such a long email I am just hoping that you
can help me and tell me what is wrong with my guppies.
Oh yeah I forgot to mention that I have 10 fish as of right now, 5
adults (1 pregnant female) and 5 juveniles, and a few of them have been
flashing (I think that's what it's called when they are
scratching up against objects) for the past 2-3 days. Thanks for any
help you can give me!
Lexie
<I do think most of the issues you and your guppies have suffered
are due to simple "stress"... being moved about, so much
water changes, medicine exposure... rather then infectious or parasitic
disease... And that the best route for you to go at this point is to be
very patient, offer VERY little food, making sure it's being
consumed or offering no further at that time... And to keep monitoring
your water quality, avoid large/wholesale/complete water changes... I
do encourage you to have your well water tested (there may well be a
free county service for doing so)... and to at least mix some (maybe
half) of this water with any "purified" commercial drinking
water, to provide needed mineral, alkalinity/buffering capacity. I am
hopeful that your system will stabilize, that your remaining guppies
will live from here on out. BTW, the present number is about all this
small volume can sustain population wise. Perhaps a few small catfish
for the bottom (when the system is stable) would be all I would add
here. Bob Fenner>
Dropsy Treatment 11/07/08 Hello, I emailed you
about three days ago and asked what could cause a female guppy to
become very large without having a dark gravid spot. She has seems to
be in perpetual pregnancy for the past month. She seems very happy, I
just upgraded to a 50 gallon tank and hope to get many more guppies,
but I realized that she had not been getting any darker in the anal
area. All I could find online was the disease "dropsy," I was
wondering what I can do to treat it. And, could this be what has kept
her form having the babies? Otherwise she seems absolutely perfect and
acts very normal. Thanks Much, Nate <Nate, you can't
"cure" Dropsy. It isn't a disease. It's a symptom.
It's like a rash or a runny nose on a human. While a clue to a
problem, in itself it isn't a disease or parasite. So when fish
have Dropsy, you have to review the environment and other possible
factors. Very occasionally fish get Dropsy because of things you have
no control over: bad genes, viruses, etc. If only one fish gets Dropsy,
and all the others seem fine, then there's not much you can do
beyond trying to alleviate the symptoms. Adding Epsom salt (one
teaspoon per 5 gallons) can help by altering the osmotic pressure
between the fish and the water. Keep adding this to each new bucket of
water added to the tank for as long as it takes to reduce the swelling.
Otherwise review diet, water quality, water chemistry, etc: all these
things can cause problems ranging from constipation through to organ
failure, any of which can cause the body to swell unnaturally.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/dropsyfaqs.htm Cheers,
Neale.>
Re: Dropsy Treatment (Poecilia) 11/08/08
Thank you for the advice, but now I have a new question. One of my
other females gave birth about three hours ago to eleven fry. She
stopped having the babies, and has no "white string" that
people sometimes refer to if their guppy is not done giving birth, but
she is still very big and has a dark gravid spot. Could she just be
tired, or is she done? Is there anything that I can do to help the
situation? Thanks again, Nate <The baby Guppies will come out when
they're ready. I shouldn't worry too much about white strings
or gravid spots. As I say repeatedly on this site, the "gravid
spot" isn't a magical thing that Nature put there like a sort
of reproductive alarm clock! It's nothing more than the internal
organs being pushed against the muscle wall, resulting in a darker than
normal appearance. In big females it can be less obvious than in small
ones because the muscle wall is thicker, and on larger livebearer
species (such as Mollies and Swordtails) it is a completely unreliable
characteristic. Much better to go by the size of the female: if
she's suddenly become much more svelte than she was the day before,
then she's given birth. Normally all the fry are released within a
few hours, though I'm sure exceptions occur. Provided your female
Guppy has some floating plants to rest among, that's about all you
can do to genuinely help her. Cheers, Neale.>
Strange Guppy Behavior
5/5/07 Hi There, I have a peaceful 80
gallon community tank with platies, Cory cats, zebras, cardinal tetras,
monk tetras and furcata rainbows with my 6 fancy guppies. I
recently treated for Ich after bringing home a new marble horned Pleco
which was evidently affected with it. (No, I didn't QT the Pleco...
big mistake). The fish store recommended Quick Cure.
<Mmm...> The directions on the bottle recommended
treating with a half-dose for tetras and scaleless fish, which I
did. After several treatment cycles, about 9 days, the Ich
was still present so I went to full dose and increased the temp to 85
degrees. <This last was a good idea> It took 10 more days to
finally (hopefully) eradicate the Ich. <The temp. alone...> I
have done many water changes, about every 3rd day, removed the charcoal
as directed, and added aquarium salt to the water, and I hope we are
through with Ich, but my guppies are now acting
strange. Several of the females seem to have a humped back
and are swimming stiffly. <Poisoned... mostly by the formalin...>
They also seem to be absorbing their unborn fry.
<Effects/ditto> They look very uncomfortable and almost
lethargic. I have had the guppies for over 6 months and they have been
healthy till the Ich breakout. <... not the Ich... the treatment>
I lost one of the males today so I know something is really
wrong. The other members of the community seem to be
OK. I have tested the water and it seems in
good order. Ammonia 0, Nitrate 0, Nitrite 0, Hardness in the
moderate range, PH about 7.6. Temp is still set at 85
degrees as I read that the Ich cannot reproduce at this temp in case
there is any still lurking. Any ideas what may be wrong with
the guppies??? <Toxified> I really don't want to
lose them. Could it possibly be stress from medicating for
so long? <Mmm, yes> Thank you so much... I
have been searching for answers but have been unable to figure out what
is wrong. Thank you!! Sharon
<See WWM re the product... Malachite and Formalin.
BobF>
Uncertainty on Whether to Medicate FW system ... Credit to
the "Nuge"... "When in doubt, I count it out... It's
a free for all" Hi Crew. I have a FW tank and
suspect (fear) that something untoward may be brewing with one of my
guppies. I read your site and FAQs daily but I still
can't quite get a read on what might be going on or, more
importantly, whether I should take any action at this time based upon
what I am observing with this fish. My set up is: 20
gal FW, java moss and plastic plants, strong aeration, two hang
on-filters: 30 gal Marineland w/BioWheel and 20 gal Top Fin,
water temp usually kept at 76-78 range, tank has been fully cycled
since last November. The readings this morning were 0 ppm
ammonia, 0 ppm nitrites and 10 ppm nitrates, ph is between 7.4 and
7.8. Fish: 8 adult guppies, about 8-10
half-grown guppies, and probably another 10 guppy fry, 3 reticulated
Corys, 1 dwarf Pleco (Peckoltia sp.). I sell/give guppies
regularly back to the LFS because they breed as fast as, well, guppies.
<Know what you mean> Originally, I started with only
three guppies (2 female, one male) and all the guppies in the tank now
have come from those fish, with one exception. I purchased a
red diamond male guppy about two months ago and he is the only fish
from this tank I have had to euthanize (or lost). I did so
because he began to exhibit symptoms of what I believed was whirling
fish disease based upon my research, or at least some type of nervous
disorder. He would swim normally and then go into violent
spins and seizures. This occurred well after tank was cycled
and the water parameters were all excellent so it was not any type of
water quality issue. I was worried about my
other fish but have had no other fish with remotely similar problems
since. I am explaining this because I believe the guppy I
have concerns about now is the offspring of the euthanized red diamond
guppy as it has similar markings. I do a 30% to 35% water
change (6-8 gallons) weekly to keep the nitrates down which
will spike up to 40 ppm at the end of the week but then drop to 10 ppm
or less with the change. <You may want
to read re, do something/s to keep under 20 ppm on a constant basis>
Now to my concern. I have observed the guppy in question
recently, and again this morning (one day after a 30% water change),
rubbing his side on the gravel bottom in a single twisting
motion. I have observed this fish at length and I have only
seen him do this on a couple of occasions when he comes near the bottom
to feed on the Pleco's pellet. I know from your site that this
could be a number of things: a first sign of Ich, velvet,
parasite, or even a sensitivity to nitrates. <Yes>
The fish's appearance is what is puzzling to me and complicated by
his strange markings. He has the orange and white from the
red diamond parent with bluish brown and some yellow from his
mother. He is probably around six to eight weeks old and has
always had a sort of iridescent sheen (very beautiful
fish). He shows none of the visual symptoms on his body of
Ich. I can't really see signs of velvet but that is
uncertain because of his markings (some of which are a kind of light
yellow iridescence). If I was forced to guess that he had
some disease, I guess I would have to pick velvet because of the
yellow. <Mmm, if this then you would very likely experience quick
mortality... I doubt this is this algal complaint>
However, he seems very content and active at this stage
with no real sign of discomfort and, as I said, I have been
watching him closely for some time and have observed the rubbing only a
couple of times. The only other visual issue is seems to
have a small discoloration just in front of his dorsal fin where it is
lighter than the rest of the surrounding coloration. This
could be a rub mark or it may just be a function of his maturing
coloration. So I am uncertain whether the fish is diseased
but obviously concerned about the entire
system. Additionally, all fish in the system appear
happy content and with good appetites. <A good
sign> I know this equivocal information is probably insufficient for
any kind of precise diagnosis, but my question is really the best way
to proceed based upon this uncertainty. <"Do no harm"...
I'd keep all under observation at this point> I am hesitant to
bombard my tank with chemicals or treatment at this point, because I
don't really know what I am treating, if anything, and I don't
want to destroy my biological filter unnecessarily. It seems
my options are (1) to simply monitor, (2) remove the fish in question
and observe, (3) remove the fish in question and provide some treatment
individually, (4) treat the entire system. The fish is too
healthy to even give consideration to euthanizing. The
only thing I have done at this point is to increase the temperature to
about 80 degrees. What would you do? <1)> I note from
reading you site regularly that Sabrina seems to get most of the guppy
questions, but I would really welcome opinions from any of
you. I apologize for being unable to arrive at a course of
action from the information on your site (which I have been otherwise
able to do throughout almost every turn in this hobby), but I am just
unclear on exactly what to do here and I don't want to jeopardize a
system I have worked so hard to get established. Thanks so much for
your time and
assistance. Phil
<Thank you for writing... and so clearly, completely. I would not
treat this system, fish per se, but strive to improve the environment
here. Bob Fenner>
Guppy looking like he has a bad back 1/21/07
Hi! I have a male guppy, 2.5 gallon aquarium with filter,
aquarium salt added, pH normal, temp ~80-82. He behaves as
if he is perfectly healthy, but suddenly he started looking
"bent" like he has a bad back or something.
<Does happen... most often with age, some diseases, nutritional
deficiency syndromes...> About a week after he started looking like
that, he started holding his tail tightly, it is now in a point (before
that he had a beautiful tail nicely fanned out) He is
behaving like a normal fish, swimming around fine (although he seems to
be struggling a little because of his tail), eating
normally. I had female also, but she died of the exact same
symptoms. However, the male fish did not start getting like
this until quite a while after the female died, and she died very
quickly but he has been hanging for well over a week with his tail like
this. I don't want to euthanize him because I am very
attached to him and he doesn't look like he's in pain. <Is
not likely so> I could not find any information about this on the
web, and I am very hesitant to drop some medicine ! in there until I
know what's going on and what kind of medicine to drop. <Mmm,
not really a good idea... not likely efficacious> I am hesitant to
even do a partial water change now because I don't want to add any
extra stress on him. Please help! Thank you.
~Linda <Not really something that is "catching" to most
other fish groups... best to do those water changes, feed regularly,
hope for the best here. Bob Fenner>
Guppy Woes Hi Crew, I have some guppies that I don't know a
whole lot about. The one in particular though is very dark, She was not
this way when we purchased her. Recently I have seen her rubbing
against the tank & Swimming into the side with some force. <Many
causes for this. Ick and poor water quality at the top of the list>
I have noticed that she appears bruised, I don't know if she has
internal bleeding or what the case is? <Is she showing red patches?
Bloody wounds?> I did put some ick medication into the tank. <Ick
would show as salt like white spots on the fish. If none of the fish
show this we need to get the med out. What did you use?> She is
pregnant, <A life long condition for an adult female guppy> She
doesn't seem like she's dying? What would cause this? My
children really like these fish. We had some in the past but due to a
house fire we lost them all. <Great way to help the kids get over
such a loss> The tank with this female was a gift to them when we
rebuilt & I would like to save her if at all possible. <Pressure
ON> Thanks, Kelly <Hi Kelly, Don here. I'm going to need a
lot more info before I can help. But the first thing to do is start
changing out the water. Unless you see white spots on the fish it was a
mistake to add the Ick medicine. Some are very harsh to the fish
directly. Others can kill the good bacteria in your system causing the
water to foul. I would do a healthy water change of about 30% right
away. Make sure you match temp and dechlorinate. Repeat in a few hours
and then daily for the next few days. Now the questions. What size tank
and type filter? Is the tank heated? How many/types fish? If all
guppies, how many males and females? How long has it been running? Do
you do regular water changes? If so, how often and what percent? Do you
use a gravel vac? Do you test the water? If not take a sample of both
your tank and tap water to your local pet store. Get the actual
numbers, do not accept "Everything's fine". Better would
be to pick up your own test kit. We need numbers for ammonia, nitrite,
nitrate and pH. Test the pH of both the tank and your source water. We
will need the results to continue, but the water changes may help. Good
luck. Don>
Guppies Dying Hi. I have a 2 ft x 2ft x 1 ft
tank, and use a overhead box filter, and also a submersible heater. I
have about 20 guppies in the tank, 12 neon tetras and a algae eater.
Recently, my guppies start to behave strange. They will stay either
near the surface of the water, but not gasping, or they stay at the
bottom of the tank. Those staying at the bottom of the tank will
attempt to swim up, but when they stop swimming, they just sink to the
bottom. I have lost about 8 of them over a week, and more seems to be
dying. I've added aquarium salt, but no improvement. What should I
do? Thanks for your help. Wally <<Dear Wally; First
you need to test your water. I will need to know your results of the
following tests: ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates. PH also, if you can. I
also need to know how often you do water changes, what the tank
temperature is, and if you have recently added any new fish to this
tank. Do you add salt to this tank? Certain strains of guppy can be
fragile, and require excellent water quality, stable temps, and high
quality foods. It could be anything from weakness due to parasites or
bad water quality, to a bacterial infection. But if it's a water
quality issue, and you treat the tank, you could do more harm than good
until you get your water into shape. So please get back to me with your
test results :) Thanks, Gwen>>
My guppies have ick I've been treating my
tank for Ich for 3 days now. It doesn't seem to be clearing up. I
have 6 guppies and 2 babies (guppies also) . I'm using Cure-Ick.
The ick doesn't look horrible. It is just sprinkled on. It is small
little spots. all of my Syno-cats came down with the ick first but then
started to develop a white film over their body. Which also covered
their eyes. The medication I'm using says use for three days. It is
a Malachite Green-Formalin base. Should I try something else? < That
is the right stuff.> Unfortunately where I live the only place that
is slightly fish experts is Pet Smart. I'm really worried about
losing the babies. They are still going strong but I've noticed
that now they have a little bit of ick. they are only 4 days old. The
Ph is around 7.4-7- < Make sure the water temp. is around 80
degrees. And do a 30% water change every other day. The parasite likes
under the skin of the host for a couple of days and can only be killed
when it is off the host and free swimming. Your catfish do not like the
medication so make sure you follow the directions when it comes to
treating catfish. Watch for ammonia spikes because the Ich medication
may affect the good bacteria that breaks down ammonia and
nitrites.-Chuck>
Injured guppy Hi I have a 65L tank with 10 guppies (all
male) and 1 Bristlenose catfish in it. I was recently
doing a water change when one of the guppies found itself sucked
into the end of my syphon hose. I managed to cut the
flow before it got too far into the tube but it has still caused
some damage to the fish. His right flipper has been
damaged but he does still move it and also there is some damage
around his upper lip, though it does look like he is still able to
open and close his mouth. I would like to know about what the best
procedure would be for treating this fish. Also after
this all the other fish in the tank look 'spooked' and
remain quite still in the water and are hiding in
plants. Tried to take a photo of it.. Its not very good
because he didn't want to come to the front of the tank and
pose. Thanks Matt <I would administer "aquarium salt"
as per here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/saltusefaqs.htm
and maintain excellent water quality. No "medicines" are
needed or likely useful here. Bob Fenner> |
|
Guppy with
Dropsy 10/2/05 Hi, I noticed last week that the body of one
of my guppies started swelling and he stopped swimming around as much
as usual. Based on what I've read, this appears to be dropsy.
<... yes, as a description of symptoms... not an indication of
proximate or ultimate cause/s> I've moved him to a hospital tank
and have been treating him with KanaPlex. He is swimming around and
eating, but the swelling does not appear to be going away (it's not
getting worse either). Should I be using salt as well in the hospital
tank? <Yes, I would. Epsom> I have read some places where salt
helps extract the fluids from the fish that are causing swelling, but
have also read that you should not use salt when treating a dropsy. If
I should use salt, what kind should I be using? Thanks, Rob <Epsom,
magnesium sulfate. You can read on WWM re. Bob Fenner>
Clear Discharge From Pregnant Guppy -
10/20/2005 I have several female guppies with one lucky male in a
large 40 gallon tank. One of the females, whom I knew was pregnant and
about due suddenly just started having clear, heavier then water,
almost oily looking discharge. I am going to assume this was a
"miscarriage", so to speak. <I think I agree.> Is there
anything that may have caused this, <Well.... it
happened, so obviously something caused it.... but what is a
mystery, especially with so little information about your
system. Hopefully it was nothing contagious or indicative of
health problems. If she is acting well and healthy, I would
not worry at this point.> or that I could have done to prevent?
<Not anything off the top of my head - but you may want to add Epsom
salt (magnesium sulfate) to the water at a rate of 1 to 2 tablespoons
per ten gallons to help her pass anything further that she might
need.> Thanks for any help, -Gail <Wishing you
well, -Sabrina>
FW Fish Losses Adding Up for Doug & William
The Fish Watcher, Supreme Ruler of Gupticon 5 11/12/2005 Hi
crew, I am pretty frustrated today! I did as I was told, and saw no
real change. Lost 3 fish. I saw a decrease in flashing from the
survivors, but not much of one. The aggression seems to have eased up a
bit, but I suspect it is because the primary aggressor, a large female,
was put into the QT tank heavy with fry. In the QT tank before the move
were 2 Cory cats, and 2 fancy females. Since one of the females
was not as pregnant as the other 2 occupants I caught her, put her in a
new breast milk storage baggie half full of the water she lived in, and
floated her in my main tank for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes I totally
submerged the bag to mix the water and let her swim out on her own.
That took about 20 min.s. That was 4 days ago I did the same with the
Cory cats. The day before the move I did a partial water change
in the 15 gal tank (4 gallons) and I did another last night. This
morning from what I have been able to determine in the FAQ, the newly
moved female from the QT tank seems to be suffering from septicemia, as
she has red blotches over most of her body. Should I start the
non-iodized salt in the water again??? < All that salt does is
increase the slime coat on the fish. <<Actually, it also
reduces the physiological "work" for the animal (has to keep
balance in regards to osmotic pressure, "osmolarity".
This can work in reverse for marine fishes, though for both FW & SW
care must be taken when using differing salinity/specific gravity
levels to aid healing), though of course there are some FW fishes that
appreciate salt not at all. It also increases efficacy of many
antibiotics. An interesting read can be found from the
University of Florida IFAS extension website (scroll down, just
above the article summary). "Most tropical fish can tolerate
a salt concentration of 1-3 g/L, and this level is not harmful to the
biological filter." MH>> < Once they are
already infected I would recommend keeping the fish in a hospital tank
and treating with Nitrofuranace with doing a 50% water change in
between treatments. Salt could be added too but the antibiotic is what
you really need.> And does this mean my nitrates are spiking
again???? < You really need to get your own test kit until you get
your water system stabilized. Nitrates should be below 25 ppm. Even
lower for some fish. You tap water may already have nitrates above this
level if you live in an area with agricultural run off. Check your tap
water. In many areas this information can be obtained from your local
water company, but they usually have a range of results and may vary
over time. Excess food from over feeding is usually the main cause of
excessive nitrogenous waste.> I haven't had a water test because
I don't have a kit, and the LFS is following its "free water
test with purchase" rule. < I would till get a test kit so you
can check the water every time you make a change.> The Boss
has put a freeze on guppy spending as it has breeched by far its
original budget! But the last water test showed slightly elevated
NITRITES! I know the bacteria that consumes ammonia produces nitrites,
and that the bacteria that consumes nitrites create nitrates. I just
don't understand how the 2 can fluctuate so! < This can vary
from excessive feeding to the addition of dead bodies that are not
quickly removed. Check you tap water and then check your tank water and
compare the two. Do not feed the tank for three days. Don't worry
they will be fine. Check the tank water again. Ammonia and nitrites
should be zero and the nitrates should be under 25 ppm. The bacteria
are affected by everything you put in the tank, salt, food, fish
everything! Do a 50% water change, vacuum the gravel and clean
the filter. Add carbon to the filter to remove any residual chemicals
and drugs in the water. If the ammonia and nitrites are high then ad
Bio-Spira from Marineland to replace the bacteria. If the nitrates are
high then vacuum the tank under ornaments and rocks to get the rest of
the mulm out of the tank. Reduce the nitrates to acceptable levels
toding {doing?} water changes until they get down to acceptable
levels. When you feed you fish you only feed them once a day and then
only enough food so that all of it is gone in two minutes. Siphon the
left over food out after two minutes. Then you will know how much to
feed.> Final question... A separate fish store tells me that the
modern guppy is very inbred to maintain desired traits, making them
much more delicate than the guppies of the 70's and 80's. <
There could be some truth to that but I have never seen any hard data
to support this.> <<Empirical evidence suggests this
is also happening with Betta splendens. MH>> He went on
to suggest I try cichlids, as they are much heartier than community
fish, <<<G> Could he have meant
"hardier"?>> and that if I change out my gravel and
swap it with crushed coral my 15 gal tank should eventually be able to
hold 4 small cichlids, and 3 small tiger barbs. Suggesting that I
add the fish in pairs, and stagger the stocking of the tank over 2 mos.
Does this sound accurate to you? < Changing over to hardier fish
does not solve you aquarium management problem. I would suggest that
you learn to keep the fish you have first. Read up on cichlids to see
if that is what you really want to keep. If you don't like your
fish then you won't care about them.> By the way, I know that
the cichlids, and barbs will outgrow this set up, but I have been
promised a one for one swap as the fish get bigger. Thanks again
for this great resource! I just hope I can over come my current
difficulties so that I will be able to continue to enjoy this
increasingly expensive hobby with my new son! Doug & William The
Fish Watcher, Supreme Ruler of Gupticon 5 <<I have a
friend who visits Legton often, ever been there?>> < If
you want cichlid then there are no shortage of species to fill any size
tank you have.-Chuck>
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