FAQs about Kessil Light Emitting Diode
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Acclimate New Corals to Leds
My current tank specifics are a 65 gallon mixed reef
(eventually) tank currently cycled with a 2-3 inch sandbed and about 50 pounds
of live rock. I have a hob reef octopus 1000, a hob, and multiple powerheads.
There is a very modest cleanup crew, I am aware these few snails and crabs do
ultimately add bioload so numbers will remain sparse. My parameters are ammonia
0, nitrites 0, nitrates under 10 ppm, alkalinity 8.0, temperature 79 F. I am
writing because after much deliberation I purchased two Kessil 160s to
serve as primary lighting for a range of soft corals and perhaps, conditions
permitting, a few lps. Specifically I am looking for advice on how to allow
newly acquired specimens to adjust properly to the lighting.
<Ahh; thank you for providing such detail. The Kessil Pendants will work well
here; including for light acclimation. IF you have available (perhaps a fish
store or club will lend you) a PAR or PUR meter... to measure out the useful
light arrangement in your system. I would place new "corals" of most any species
on the edges, borders.... at depths... that yield some values in the 50's... in
weeks time if they're hermatypic types that require/appreciate intense
illumination (e.g. Acroporids, Poritids, Pocilloporids...) moving them to areas
with PAR/PUR values higher than 100>
Most will be arriving from a lfs that uses a mixture of metal halides and some
tanks with t-5's. I know this would have to be a broad generalization
but, for instance, how long do I run the Kessils per day and or at what
<Can only be determined with a meter; your using a probe at depths, making a
detailed drawing of values you measure>
Is there a standard or this primarily a try and troubleshoot method?
<The latter; empirical is best>
Is there an order of addition of coral to the tank by estimating the individual
<Oh yes indeed.... and more to this... You want to be studying, placing the less
allelopathogenic species first....>
I know I will be starting with polyps, xenia, and mushrooms, unless you suggest
<Depends on what you intend to add later... Also; I would isolate all incoming
for a couple, plus weeks (in another system) to give them a chance to rest up
(treat w/ Iodide-ate here), allow you to examine for possible hitchhikers,
pests... and to see if the colonies are going to live>
Future success might lead to the addition of a hammer, torch, or bubble coral.
<Oh! Am currently writing a series for the UK mag. UltraMarine on this family...
can be rough on other Cnidarians... need to be placed distal... with several
inches gap twixt others>
As is usually the case, I don't have the financial means to stock the tank to
capacity from the onset of suitable conditions so much thought will be given to
adding them in a way which doesn't stress previous inhabitants while considering
the needs of potential newbies.
<Best to take your time period.... look into buying, trading frags....>
I have searched and researched and I may be more confused than I was prior to
internet surfing. I realize there isn't a hard and fast answer but any advice or
knowledge or even steering in the direction of factual information would be so
appreciated and well received. Thank you in advance.
<Oh! There's a bunch of avenues for knowledge, inspiration. DO consider joining
a club or more... and chatting w/ other like-minded folks on the Net, or better,
face to face... DO develop good relations with local stores. Mmm; and do remain
a bit skeptical (even of my spiels) re what you experience other than
first-hand. There is also much disinformation and phony products to be had.
When, where you can, read w/ a discerning mind. Bob Fenner>
Led lights; effect/s on stony corals
This may be a strange question. I have 140 reef set up lots of Lps and
some sps. I was running vertex illuminlux led lights and recently switch
to 2 Kessil 360w lights. The color to my eye is a little different but I
have probably 5x more shimmery then before. My corals seem much happier
now. My question is: Have the corals improved due to more shimmer or is
it only dependent the spectrum of light???
<It will/would take a few weeks for the corals to change... so my guess
the difference is primarily the lighting. Bob Fenner>
LED lighting and Kessil A350
I have read your other discussions about LED lighting in larger
aquariums and still have a specific question about my aquarium's
Here are the details:
My system is a 65 gal (36"w x 24"tall x 18" deep)
display tank on a 46" custom base with an open to the ceiling 12" tall
hood. The lighting would be mounted above the water anywhere from 6" to
12" (open hood and pendant hung allow flexible options). My goal is to
have mostly SPS 16" or less from the water surface then LPS below that.
The tank came with a Kessil A350 (narrow lens).
My question, after reading your other LED discussions, is will two of
these fixtures be sufficient for my SPS and LPS plan? I want to have a
very good lighting set up for SPS growth and color so if the one Kessil
it came with plus one more is very good (as opposed to decent or worse)
then I will purchase another one. If not, I will sell the one and look
into an Orphek or other for deep 24" tanks.
A comment on Kessil's website, they do not give clear PUR and PAR
ratings/information which is a sign to me that they may be more about
selling versus willing to be compared and chosen by educated buyers.
<Yes, beware of companies that cannot provide PAR charts and most
importantly, a spectrograph. Intensity means nothing if the needed
spectrum is not provided by the light. Have you contacted Kessil for
Do you find the same lack of detail on their products?
<Yes to some degree. For example, if you go to the Kessil site and
look at the A350, they show a chart of degree of coverage vs. lumens
intensity but they do not show what the actual lumens intensity is.
In no way am I bashing Kessil, there are many customers who are happy
with them but in my opinion, for tanks over 24", I would need to see a
PAR/spectrograph chart to convince me.>
Thank you very much for any help :-)
P.S. I will not be putting any coral in before the water quality is
excellent and has been that way for many many months. I have been
running other nano systems on T5HO with SPS and LPS for over 5 years
with great results but this is my first larger tank, thus the move to
<I have copied this information from the Neptune Aquatic website.
Do the math and decide for yourself.
12" from light to sensor: 475 (sensor 6" below water line)
18" from light to sensor: 250 (sensor 12" below water line)
24" from light to sensor: 225 (sensor 18" below water line)
Notice that the light is never hung more than 6 inches above the water
line for the test. I do not know how valid this information is or
who actually did the test on it so take it with a grain of salt. I
am also a sales rep for Orphek and we always provide this information to
our customers when asked. Regardless of the brand you may be
interested in, ensure the company can provide the information you
desire. James (Salty Dog)>
Re: Lighting Change 12/11/12
James/Bob, Would the Kessil A150W 10k be a good
investment then? And, since I have a standard 55 would two of
these be a better investment for even distribution of light, or
could one be tilted at an angle to cover a majority of the tank? Would
tilting a light be negative for the corals, because in theory it could
starve one side from light?
<Yes, it is much better with two fixtures. I looked at the specs
and they do not provide coverage details so I cannot help you there.
I would also go with the 15K model rather than the 10K. For the
price this unit appears to be a good buy, just be sure that two will
effectively cover a 4 foot long tank. I would also want to know
what kind of PAR the fixture puts out if I were to buy it. James
LED Kessil A150W 12/31/12
I was advised to get an LED Pendant instead of the PAR 38. I did a bit
of research, and believe that the Kessil A150W is probably the best LED
for me to experiment with. I was planning to get 2 of these, both in the
10k range from Marine Depot.
<Unless you plan on supplementing with actinic, I would opt for a higher
Kelvin temperature. I have never saw a spectrograph or a PAR chart
on this LED and if it were me, I would contact the company and ask if
these charts are available. Especially interesting would be to see
the spectrograph and see if it produces a decent PAR in the PUR
(photosynthetic usable radiation) spectrum which is the spectrum corals
favorably respond to. PAR readings cover the visible light range
and corals do not need or respond to the entire range of visible light.>
I would mount them to the tank with the Gooseneck also sold at Marine
Depot. I was going to keep the pendants at least 6 inches from the
water. Is this appropriate for keeping species like Porites cylindrica,
Montipora digitata, Acropora millepora, Stylophora sp, Seriatopora
stellata, Pocillopora damicornis, and Tridacna crocea?
<Not at the bottom of the tank but that depends on how deep your tank
is. At 19" I have heard that the PAR value is 100 with the 10K
model and even less with their higher Kelvin model, somewhere near 70.
A PAR of 100 is fine for most corals providing the spectrum falls into
the PUR range. This is why spectrographs are a useful tool when
I would not be keeping all of these, but I would like to know if the
lighting would be strong enough for these species. I also was planning
to move the existing LPS to a different tank when I upgrade; as I would
not want to scorch them.
<You shouldn't scorch them. My understanding is that this light is
equivalent to a 150 watt HQI lamp.
James (Salty Dog)>