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Green water, pond... UV use 6/17/08
Hello again, I have another concern. The water on our pond is greenish in
color, we tested the water and everything seem to be fine. It is a fairly new
pond, and we have been running it for about 2 weeks now. Do you think we'll be
able to see the bottom even if it is 4 feet deep? Our filter is an Ultima model
(bead filter) which I am sure is sufficient for my set up. I am wondering if
maybe it is the UV that needs to be replaced/addressed?
<Green water is often a good sign that the UV tube in a UV steriliser needs
replacing. Do bear in mind the tubes in these devices lasts around 12 months
depending on the model (check the instruction manual that came with yours for
the precise details). UV tubes aren't expensive, and changing them is usually a
10 minute job, if that. Cheers, Neale.>
Pond Ozonator 4/24/08
I have a two ponds connected by a small creek and circulated by a biofilter
and small waterfall. The total water volume is approx. 2,000 gallons. It does
get direct sunlight, however, i have plenty of vegetation (mostly lilies) to
shade the pond in the summer. The top pond is larger and contains several Koi
and goldfish. The lower pond is smaller. This is where most of the waste and
sediment ends up. I am having a problem with overgrowth of string algae in the
creek, lower pond, and on the waterfall.
<Not atypical...>
I do not have the time or money to rip up the pond and start from scratch to try
to get rid of the algae.
<You've read on WWM re ponds and algae?>
My pets like to drink out of the pond so I do not want to add any extra
chemicals other than the dechlorinator and bacteria. I have read bits and pieces
on the internet about ozonators and their success in eliminating nitrites which
cuts back on the algae growth. I have been to several dealers even hot tub
dealers) trying to get information on how to install or build one for my pond.
No one seems to have any information in the area where I live Colorado). Any
chance there is an article out there that you know of called "Ozonators for
Dummies?" If you could give me any information on materials and installation I
would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks,
John Kobza
<Please use the search tool on WetWebMedia.com
Bob Fenner>
Pond... algae treatment sans chemicals 4/25/07
Hello,
I have a question I have not seen addressed yet. We put in a small decorative
pond at the beginning of the spring. Two water lilies are in the bottom and have
a small waterfalls on the other end. My problem is the algae is just beginning
to grow in the falls. The really big problem is I have several cats that seem to
think this is their private watering hole. Is there any way I can treat the
water organically or without chemicals so I don't harm my cats. I don't think
there is any way I can keep them away from the water. I appreciate any help you
can give me.
Thank you,
Kathie Phipps
<... To treat it for the algae w/o harming your cats, is this what you're after?
Yes... through nutrient deprivation, physically (UV, Ozone...) and
biologically... Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/pdalgcontrol.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
New Pond, algae concerns - 08/15/06
Hello again,
Just sent an email about my marine tank.
<Saw this... but don't see it transferred here... please resend to WWM>
Now for the pond. Actually this is for my parents' pond, and I would like to
help them improve it. They are complaining of the algae and are almost
regretting putting it in.
<Pond algae problems are almost as common as ponds themselves!>
They have worked way too hard to give up now, so I would like to give them some
advice with your help. They have an upper pool that flows down a 2 to 3 foot
waterfall at 1500 to 2000 gph to the main pond. I would estimate it has between
600 to 1000 gallons total. Sorry can't be more accurate. I have
only seen it twice. The depth is about 3-4 feet in the main pond. They used a
liner to construct the pond. My dad says it seems to lose about 2-3
inches of water every few days. Is this a leak or evaporation from the hot
summer days?
<Mmm, this volume... could be either... should slow down with cooling weather if
just evaporation...>
The algae is green and growing on the rocks. I know algae is to be expected,
especially in a new pond. They live in northwest Iowa which does gets in the
90's often in the
summer. The pond is also in direct sunlight.
<Yikes... Have you/they read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/pdalgcontrol.htm
and the linked files above?>
They have no livestock yet. They are smart and waiting. They do have some
sort of a large canister filter that has bio balls and probably some other
mechanical media in it.
Is this ok, or is this a nitrate factory?
<Helps, but will not solve algae issues... nitrates are not likely a large part
of the issue here... the exposure to sunlight, high temperature, lack of
photosynthetic life/competitors...>
I am thinking they should add surface plants to cover about 60% of the
surface.
<Yes>
They like lilies. Any other suggestions?
<Posted on WWM... floating "bunch" plants, Water Hyacinth, Lettuce... exposed
plants will not likely overwinter in Iowa>
I have also read that barley straw will prevent algae growth.
<Can in some circumstances>
I will also tell them to minimize any nutrients including lawn fertilizer that
may get into the pond.
<Yes, very important>
I don't think they have done any or enough water changes, only top off.
<Ahh, also need to remove some water in this process... lest a sort of "Dead
Sea" effect ensue>
What is the best way to remove the algae or kill it before removing it?
<Mmm...>
Does hydrogen peroxide work here?
<Not worth trying... the root causes will "re-constitute" the useful molecules
back into algae soon enough...>
Does this dissolve the algae allowing you to do a mass water change to remove
the nutrients?
<Not effectively, however...>
Would you use copper?
<Mmm, no... not unless I knew much more re this system, the make-up of the
water... what life they intended to keep... and the system was much larger...
Copper is too limiting in its use here>
I assume that they could drain and pressure wash the pond to clean it since they
have a pressure washer. Or since this is the first year should they just leave
it?
<I would "wipe" the sides, rocks down on part (half?) of the system and remove
some solids along with the water changes, re-top-off you mention... maybe weekly
while the weather is warm>
I have a couple better ideas that they might be able to use. I was going
to show my dad your design of the up-flow filter with the crushed rock. Or
would they be better off using the upper pool as a some sort of bio filter?
<Either would be good additions here... the latter more expensive, but "faster"
to get, institute...>
Will the up-flow filter prevent algae?
<Only to some extent... Now... my ideas. We're this my pond, or my parents,
in addition to the mentioned countervailing approaches... water changes, solids
removal on a regular basis, using some live plants, adding more biological
(including purposeful anaerobic) filtration, I would definitely consider adding
either a good-sized Ultraviolet Sterilizer or Ozonizer in line with the water
flow... after the new filter would be best. There are a few makers of these...
But do want to mention, sing the praises of Vecton units (made in the UK by TMC,
distributed in the US by Quality Marine, near LAX...)... as being very sturdy,
practical for outdoor/pond use... This would/will be the shortest, most-assured
improvement to ridding your parents pond of free-floating algal problems... and
do a great deal more to assure good water quality... with the least amount of
labor...>
Thanks again,
Joe Bosch
<Thank you for writing, sharing your concern. Bob Fenner>
Sick fish? Green pond... no useful data, cogitation 7/14/06
I have a 300 gallon pond. My 1st problem this year has been keeping the
water clear. It insists on turning green (I only have about 4 hours of sun a
day.) I have tried all suggestions to fix (from chemicals to plants) but nothing
has worked.
<Can be a bugga boo! Hope you're going to relate water quality tests... and your
investigation of UV, Ozone...>
I didn't have fish in the pond last year and before I got any this year I
totally cleaned it to get it ready. Could it be going through some natural
process and should I just let it be?
<Mmm, yes>
I only have 4 fish (goldfish/comet varieties) and I lost one of them yesterday.
My 2 biggest, one orange and one, a white fantail with beautiful red spots, are
acting strange.
<Very likely there are enormous vacillations in pH, dissolved oxygen, even
toxins produced via the algal event>
They normally hide either under the hyacinth or at the bottom behind the filter
but the past couple of days they are going to the more shallow, upper level,
being very still either next to each other or practically on each other. They
are so still you would think they are dead. If you go to touch them they will
take off very fast, but eventually come back to that spot. I had my water tested
and it all looked fine except for a slightly low Ph which I have also been
battling this year.
Any help on any of this would be much appreciated.
Thanks!!!
<What? Where's the boeuf? Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/pdalgcontrol.htm
and the linked files above... Bob Fenner>
Copper fountain/water-effect algicide use - 03/27/06
Dear Sir,
I wonder if you can kindly help me.
I have recently purchased a small indoor waterfall, and I wish to prohibit
algae growth. Please see link below.
The unit has a solid copper base, which contains the water - someone has
told me that the copper is a good agent to eradicate algae.
Could you tell me if this is true, or, do I need to take other precautionary
measures ?
I would greatly appreciate your advice,
Thanks
Steve Davies
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00015D7JU/qid=1143500993/sr=1-1/ref=sr_1_1/103-0412159-4974247?%5Fencoding=UTF8&m=A200W35O5U03O&s=home-garden&v=glance&n=1055398
<Mmm... I would not use a copper-based algicide here... nor the conventional
halogen-based chlorine, bromine... too likely to stain, ultimately corrode the
unit itself. You might look for Simazine-based "aquarium" algicides (e.g.
Algi-gon) or Jungle Pond Blocks (Di-methyl urea calcinate) or equivalent...
Whatever you use, I would take care to not have the water splash on, or
incidentally be poured on living plant material... and I would frequently (twice
a month or so), dump completely and re-fill the unit with
new water. Bob Fenner>
Re: Advice please - 03/27/06
Hi Bob,
Thanks a lot - that is very kind of you.
However, the water containing tray of the waterfall is itself made of copper
- I was wondering if that would be sufficient to prevent the algae.
<Mmm... depending on the water quality, principally pH and alkalinity, very
likely so... Turns out that copper is much more soluble in lower pH and
alkaline water...>
I do not understand the chemical make up of these things - would Fountec be
suitable ?
<Not familiar with this>
The unit has no live plants - it is only a small decorative unit , with a
copper base, water pump, and slate backdrop.
I greatly appreciate your time,
Thanks
Steve
<I do think you'll be fine in any/all cases here... not hard to maintain.
BobF>
Green Pond Water, ongoing mistakes, lack of info. 9/22/05
I have now carried out three partial water changes, each time changing 3/4
of the pond water, and this has cleared it.
<Okay>
I have however encountered a problem. I have added pond salt and a substance
recommended by my local supplier, which I am assured, will guarantee that the
water remains clear.
<Not okay... what is this substance? A flocculant? A binder of some sort, an
oxidant? What is/are the component/s?>
I now find that one of my smaller koi is in distress. Whether this is because of
the action I have taken or whether it is purely coincidental I do not know.
<Me neither...>
Regarding the salt addition I put in one third of the recommended amount for the
volume of my pond, as it stated in the instructions that it should be added in
equal quantities over a period of three days.
Is there anything I have done wrong?
<A bunch... Bob Fenner>
Regards,
Ken.
Re: green water 9/23/05
Hi Bob,
<Ken>
The substance I have added is manufactured by Kusuri Products and is
in powder form. It is called Eco-Pure and the information on the packaging
states that it is a special
<Love that word... and the word "love">
biological powder encapsulating environment friendly beneficial bacteria.
Designed as a maintenance product for regular application in any aquatic pond.
100% non chemical
<Is it made of energy and vacuum only?>
and virtually impossible to overdose! The product will bio-degrade [which it has
done] and flocculate suspended solids increasing water clarity. Lower nitrates
and phosphates inhibiting algae and blanket weed growth.
It also states that any chemical added is detrimental to good bacteria
as used in Eco-Pure.
<But/and you had stated you added salt to the water...>
It is recommended that should any chemical treatment be carried out Eco-Pure is
added twice a week for two weeks to compensate for the loss of beneficial
bacteria.
It is clearly stated that it will not kill blanket weed or algae but
will assist in resisting their development.
<Yes... an important distinction... >
It seems perfectly okay and I have just noticed something else on the
packaging. It states that it contains Saprophytic micro-organisms, conforming to
EC EFB class 1 and have never been described as casual agents in human illness
and pose no threat to the environment.
It does not appear that this was the cause of the problem and the fish
seems much better to-day.
<Good>
I failed to mention that on each of the water changes carried out a
de-chlorinator was added as I used tap water. Consequently there should, in
theory, have been no adverse incidents from this.
<Sounds good>
I will be interested in your
comments. Ken.
<Please peruse WWM re pond algae control, the linked files there. Bob Fenner>
Pond in serious trouble... poisoned at least by algicide 8/27/05
I have been going to my local pond supply store and trying to get help on
this problem. I would love to hear your advice. First the pond started
getting a lot of green slimy algae. The store said to add barley so I did. No
help. Then after a week or so they suggested adding more plants. So I did no
help. Then the store suggested algae fix, and a white powder that you put on
top of the water after removing all of the plants and letting this powder sit
with the filters off for 20 minutes. This did nothing. Now the pond smells
really bad the fish are dying and I still have both green and brown algae.
You can't walk in the pond as the bottom is very slippery. Do you have any
suggestions?
<... yes... study... What is it about your pond for instance, that inspires such
algal profusion? What is your water quality... particularly nutrient levels like
nitrate and phosphate? Do you have an adequate biological filter? Circulation?
The algicide you've used is toxic, and is killing your livestock... I would
start a series of large water changes to dilute this, or move your livestock out
entirely...>
I have lost 2 3.5 to 4" gold fish and 3 or 4 small babies. I
don't see any sign of disease,
<... environmental disease, poisoning...>
but I have noticed that all of my fish have
stopped eating. They also seem to be very lethargic. Please send any help
that
you can. Thanks
Sissy
<Start by reading here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/pdalgcontrol.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Green water in small pond 8/23/05
My wife was having a yard sale, and 2 paramedics stopped and saw green water
in my pond, and told her all i needed was some Peroxide and it would clear up,
they said that's what they use.....any truth to that?
<Mmm, some... Short term H2O2 can "burn up" free-floating algae to some
degree... Trouble is, the nutrients that were the algae can and will (quickly)
re-grow... Please read here re algae control in ponds:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/pdalgcontrol.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
CopperSafe... 8/4/05
I sent an email to another address and since I haven't heard back, found
this other one from your home page...pretty nifty! You have presented things in
a way that is very personal. So, onto the repeat question....
I read the help you gave on your web page about keeping a fountain clean by
using Mardel CopperSafe. We just came back from the pet store and are really
confused and so is the help there! This is for itch, velvet, and other external
parasites for FISH! Is this really the product?
It is that versatile???
Waiting to hear about this one!
Carol
Woodinville, WA
<Copper can indeed be put to good use in such features... Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/cuusepds.htm
and the linked files above. Safe... for birds, surrounding landscape... and
effective for algae control. Bob Fenner>
Goldfish behaviour 7/4/05
Hi
<Hello there>
I have a very large garden pond - twenty foot by forty plus foot, four feet plus
deep at one side, lots of goldish which do breed and so on. However they do
this every year and I now feel I need to know why.
They are mostly just hanging suspended in the water, like they were asleep,
although they did consent to eat a little yesterday and in the post dawn period
they make little bubbles on the surface which linger most of the day.
<Ah, yes>
Can anyone tell me what they are doing and why? No filter or oxygenator alas
but I have lived here for more than ten years now and have managed so far okay.
Thanks very much
Angie Watts
<They are experiencing changes in the pond due to the season... in essence being
poisoned... changes in pH, mixing of bottom water... You might consider adding
aeration, biological filtration... that will make this system overall more
homeostatic throughout the year. Bob Fenner>
Re: Pond Goldfish behaviour 7/5/05
Thanks very much for your reply. I found the credit note from the water
company when we had to have the concrete pond relined with a butyl liner as
it had cracked (September 2003) and I found I reclaimed for 35metres3 not
put back into the sewage system.
<A good note... in the States we also can at times realize such a saving from
notifying our water/sewage service provider>
Add to that the contents of 2 x 45 gallon
containers, one large fish tank and a paddling pool (for the marginals) I
think that works out a pond approx 7,800 gallons, am I about right?
<Mmm, 35 cubic meters of water is about 9,409 gallons...>
About a
hundred goldfish (although most of them have bred black). I have ordered a
solar powered oxygenator to help things & use barley straw in old tights
(last added about three weeks ago) but I guess 2 and half inches of rain the
other day really upset my systems. Although I have to confess I was in
there the week before taking out some weed! At the moment I am just
spraying the water a little each day to add oxygen.
<All good techniques>
The fish seem to be
okay but after looking through your web site I am resolved to feed them less
often than the several times a day they have got into the habit of begging
for.
It's a great site - I have learnt so much from looking at it.
Cheers
Angie Watts
<Thank you for your kind words, caring and sharing your experiences. Bob Fenner>
Green Pond, Atrocious English 7/4/05
hi sorry to trouble but could you please help me, i have a fish pond 5
foot by approx 5foot with a filtration system which has a UV filter we have put
barley straw in the pond and the water is dark green and you cannot see
through
the water. the pond is 12mnths old we have changed the UV bulb a couple of
weeks ago and this has not helped, any advise gratefully received, thanks
<Please learn to use your spell- and grammar-checkers... and read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/pdalgcontrol.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Very Large Pond Question, WetWebMedia
Hello Bob,
Let me start by saying that I am a huge fan of the "conscientious marine
aquarist" book for my 90 gal marine aquarium at home, and of the
WetWebMedia
website. I thank you very, very much for all the advice you give us there.
<A great pleasure my friend>
We are real estate developers in central Mexico (city Leon, moderately warm
climate), and in one development we have a sort of a small "river" with
about 300 koi carps in there. The "river" or pond, measures some 400 feet
long, one foot deep and about 6 feet wide, with some variations in with up
to 15 feet. I estimate it holds some 30,000 gallons of water. It is mostly
under the shade of many trees, which also means it gets a lot of leafs and
grass in it.
<Yes>
Along the 400 feet, the water starts out coming out of 2 waterfalls, each
about 4 feet tall. and then finds another 3 falls of about 1.5 feet along
the way. The water currently flows some 10 hours a day, the rest of the time
the pumps are shut off. We take out about 5,000 gallons of water every day
from this river for watering the gardens, and add the same 5,000 gallons of
fresh water (plus evaporation top-off) from a water well we have.
<Good plan, practice>
Every month, we take out about half the water volume and replace it with
fresh water, and have a beautiful looking river. for about 2 days. Then the
water turns a cloudy brown-greenish. until you can't see the fish anymore.
This despite the daily water change.
<Yes...>
We are currently not feeding the koi, as my LFS guy told me they would
simply eat mosquitoes, bugs, or algae that grew there.
<To some degree this is so... the fish won't be as robust, colorful...>
I don't have plants in it yet, but I've now read we could use quite a few.
<Yes, definitely worthwhile adding here>
The question is regarding filtration: What sort of biological filter should
we use? (an open one, I read. but size? Materials?), mechanical? and, would
a UV help, or is it simply too large for one?
<In this size, type system, the plants and ozone would be all I would use...
all else are impractical... too expensive to install, operate...>
How many watts would I need?
<Again, I would look into corona discharge type (not UV lamps) from a larger
company here. There are a few that make these for industrial
applications...>
Can I buy something that large at a reasonable price?
<Would have to define "reasonable"... Again, the plants... lilies, some
hyacinths (keep these corralled)... will get you likely 80-90 percent of
where you want to be, at low cost...>
I greatly appreciate any advice,
Eduardo
<Glad to offer it. Bob Fenner>
Pond green water problem HELP
I have a 125 gallon pond which gets morning shade afternoon sun, I have
water lettuce and water lilies and some parrot's feather for plants,
<Good choices>
3 feeder goldfish in the pond I am using a Cipro bio force 500 filter and 2-
600 gph pumps 1 to work a water fall and fountain for aeration and the
other to the bio force filter ( I have a valve inline to the bio force
filter to control
<Nice gear>
thru flow of water), I have been treating the green water problem with Algae
fix (3 teaspoons twice a week) Eco fix (3 teaspoons once a week) Accu clear
(3 teaspoons twice a week)
<Bad ideas... toxic... not useful here>
and just started using barley straw extract last Saturday (1 oz for the
first 2 week's per the directions). The test strips that I have been using
show everything in the good range except the water is hard. Tuesday I did a
partial water change (20 gallons which I left outside in buckets for 4 day's
to let the chlorine evaporate),
<Good>
the water is still green I have even put some beach umbrellas over the pond
<Good idea>
to provide more shade aside from a
dye to color the water what else could I try and if a dye is the only answer
will it work with the water already green? I live in Northwest Indiana and
we have had some unusual warm temps for this time of the year.
<Mmm, am hesitant (almost) but will suggest you look into using an inline
ultraviolet sterilizer, some flow through this by one of your pumps... or
resolve yourself to seasonal green (algae) water problems. Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/pduvs.htm
and the links above. Bob Fenner>
Algae Eaters In a Horse Trough
Hello I have seen several questions about fish in horse troughs but have
never seen any of them answered. My question is... Is it safe for the fish and
the horses to put the fish in the trough? I have 18 horses and algae is a big
problem in their troughs. Thank you in advance.
Carla in Delaware
< WOW! Wouldn't that be nice to just throw a couple of fish in the horse trough
and no more algae problems. Unfortunately most pleco's are from tropical areas
and require warm water and some aeration. If the water stayed into the 60's then
you could try some Garra sp. with a common name of African stone lapping fish.
American flagfish would eat the hair algae and take care of mosquitoes too.
There are a couple of people catching pleco's in the far South American
continent that have found pleco's that actually come from cool areas. These are
not yet available in the hobby but the pond people will love it if they ever
become available.-Chuck> Algae/Fish Killer Help
Sir, I picked up your name on ASK.com. I am having trouble with an
outdoor fish pond. I obviously put in too much Algicide, and killed
all of my fish. Is there any way that I can neutralize the chemical
without draining the pond?
<Not practically... most expedient to do a series of massive (tens of percent)
water changes here>
I have a 5000 gallon pond, without a drain
so I would have to pump it all out into the street. Any help that you
can give me would be greatly appreciated. Thank You!!
Jan Shepherd
<Mmm, if there is any change in elevation, you may well be able to siphon the
water... better from the bottom, along with mulm... Bob Fenner>
Pleco in pond
I always hear of goldfish and koi in ponds, but never hear of Plecos. I have
a 12" long pleco that I think would be happier in my 750 gallon pond than my 55
gallon tank. What would make me not want to put him in there?
<Really just the chance that the temperature would dip below about sixty degrees
F. (depending on the species)>
I would think that the pleco would help out with some algae problems, but would
he attack my hyacinths and lilies?
<Should leave these alone. A few species of loricariids (Pleco family) are bred,
raised in ponds... in Florida, elsewhere... Bob Fenner>
Algae...I think
Have a pond, put in in June, live in Florida. Pond has a
bio-falls filter
with a skimmer, a two stage waterfall, pond is about 20' X 6' at it's
widest
and 3'-4' at it's deepest. I have about a dozen comets and
shubunkins,
largest is about 6", and a lot of mollies. several water lilies in
pots, and a few
bog plants. Everything has been going well, but over the
last couple of
weeks I have noticed the water lily pads have been getting smaller
and turning
yellow faster and just looking unhealthy in general (but still
blooming) ,
there is brown slime on their stems and all over the rocks, and the
water,
although clear is brownish colored.
<Good descriptions... the lily pad size change may simply be a matter of
change of seasons, but also an indication of a lack of available nitrogen... you
may need/want to feed your lilies... can be done in a few ways... likely
pelletized approach is best here>
I feed the fish, but only a few times a
week, as the weather is turning cooler. I also feed the
water lilies monthly.
<Oh! Should have read ahead>
The fish all look and act healthy. Water tests are all within
normal limits.
There is limited sun exposure, less than in summer when we had full
sun, so I
can think of no reason for algae bloom, there is also hair algae
coming off
the falls rocks which I remove. I have had ponds before
and know that they
go through seasons but the brown slime coating everything and the
unhealthy
pallor of the lilies is concerning. Any help you can offer
is appreciated.
Thanks
<What you show in your image and descriptions sounds and looks like
blue-green algae, aka Cyanobacteria... though it's brown in color here. There
are a few approaches to limiting its profusion... Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/pdalgcontrol.htm
and the Related FAQs (linked, in blue, at top)... consider testing your water
and source water for nitrate, phosphate, doing what you can to increase
dissolved oxygen, circulation... consider the possibility of adding a U.V.
sterilizer, perhaps an ozonizer IF the degree of "dirtiness" bothers
you. Otherwise, "normal" maintenance should keep this pest to
acceptable levels. Bob Fenner> |
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Unknown pink substance on rocks near pond
I have a fish pond in my backyard. I have noticed a pink substance on the
rocks around the pond. This has a consistency of bubblegum when touched.
When it dries it dries to a white powder-like substance. Can you identify
this for me?
Thanks, Donna
<Maybe... most likely a type of algae... but could be a combination of other
organisms, mosses, lichens and such... You could tell if you either took a look
under a microscope at a bit, or had someone else do this. Bob Fenner>
Algae in pond 30 Aug 2004
I just added two Plecostomus to the pond; all the algaecides that claimed
they were plant and fish "friendly" indicate that they are hazardous to people
and domestic pets. Well, I know better than to drink from the pond, but my
three dogs don't have a clue. <I'm surprised they don't have a fish snack to be
honest.> And since they have a doggie door to the back yard, allowing them free
reign to drink from the pond if they choose, the algaecides didn't seem like a
real good idea. <Definitely understand.> So, I'll see if the Plecostomus can
help matters any and hopefully they won't get too big. <About 18 inches when
full grown. They probably won't winter in the pond well, you'll need to pull
them out.> If they do, I guess I'll be purchasing a tank (don't have one, even
as a confinement facility at this time) so I don't have to choose between any of
the fish. Do you have any recommendations for any algaecides that are both
fish, plant, people and pet friendly? <I think the pet friendly is the problem,
sorry to say.>
Also, I'd like to maybe clean the walls and "vacuum" out the muck left behind
but am not sure what the best way to do that would be. Any suggestions there
would also be appreciated. There are times when it just isn't effective to
"skim" the crud from the bottom of the pond. Thanks
again for your input and guidance. It's been a pleasure having the fish in the
pond; I hope to winter them without too much trouble. <Good luck Jamie and keep
us up to date. MacL>
Why has my previously clear pond turn green?
I recently built an 11x17 pond that is almost 3 feet deep in a couple of
pools and about 1 foot deep on a 4x3 area. I have two 7 in koi and seven 4 in
goldfish. There is a waterfall that falls about 1 foot to the first shelf and
another foot to the pond. I've got about 20 different plants in my pond with 2
of them being water lilies. My problem(s) is: About 2 weeks ago my pond
turned green. There is some string algae but not an overabundance. I have
tried
a couple of different biological bacteria liquids but still have not been able
to clear is up. Could my water be too hot?
<Could be a factor... warmer weather goes hand in hand with algae blooms>
Also I can not keep water
hyacinth or water lettuce alive in my pond. Can you believe it?!
<Yes. Happens... some conditions disfavor their growth, presence>
Within 2 to 3
weeks after I put it in the pond or the Bio-Falls, all of the above water
foliage
turns brown and all of the roots turn black. I have tried plants from 3
different places. I do feed my fish. They get about 1/4 cup of floating fish
sticks each day. Do fish need to be fed in ponds?
<Yes, but this is too much... I would cut back to at most half of this amount.
This is another factor in your algae growth.>
I had a great supply of toad
tadpoles when my pond was first built. But I have not seen any for a couple
of months or so. Also, my water lily leaves are extremely small. The largest
leaf so far has been about 2 inches across. One of my varieties is a large
one also. Thank you so much for your help.
<Please take a long read through the Pond area of our site, www.WetWebMedia.com.
It appears that the "bacteria" products you've been adding are doing you no
good... and some of your plants harm... You may need to consider your overall
picture here: the amount of direct sunlight, water chemistry, the amount of
biological filtration you have, the flow of water through it... Bob Fenner>
An undergravel filter for a water
feature?
Dear Bob:
I am having some fun in my retirement. I live in So California, and it's
dry
and hot (Riverside County). To alleviate some of the fire hazard in my
canyon I've put in gardens, and for an aside,
a pond/waterfall (perhaps 250 gallons) .
<We live in San Diego about half the time>
The pump that drives the waterfall is
solar powered, about 10 gallons a minute with a 2 foot fall.
<Neat>
It occurred to me that instead of installing expensive filtration I
might use
an under gravel filter just like my fifty gallon aquarium. It works.
Kinda.
The solar pump is like a sump pump, drawing water from the bottom but on
top
of a stainless steel screen with a gravel overlay,
(about 4 inches of gravel, fairly coarse gravel)
To keep mosquitoes at bay I put in some guppies. Some guppies now number
a
hundred!
<Do look into Mosquitofish instead... available from "County Operations"
for free... better at keeping aquatic insect larvae controlled,
relatives of the Guppy (livebearers also)>
The pond is in all day sun, and so I expect the water to be green,( the
water temperature runs around 80 degrees).
everything is fine but I would prefer the water somewhat more clear: the
depth is about a foot and a half, and I cannot see the bottom. It might
just be a
seasonal 'bloom,' I don't know as this is just the first year. Maybe
some
finer sand on top, ( it's like pea gravel),
Any help you may offer will be appreciated, because I had so much fun
the
first time that
I'm building another. But this time it's 1,000 gallons with a 14 foot
fall
off a giant boulder!
<Ahh, much better>
Thank you,
Paul Hoppe
PS Found your site under Thoroseal.
<Worked on and built systems with in-place UG filters... they do work,
but a pain to service... and yours being exposed outright to the sun,
being small... will likely continue to suffer seasonal algae blooms. Do
continue to read through WetWebMedia.com re seasonal pond maintenance
and algae control... Adding some floating and submersed/non-rooted
plants, adjusting water chemistry (preventing nutrient availability
through using filtered water mainly and pH adjustment...), possibly the
addition of a small in-line ultraviolet sterilizer, are all appropriate
methods for reducing the severity, likelihood of algal blooms. Bob
Fenner> |
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Clams and Green Water
Hello crew<Hi, MikeD here>, I'm having a problem with green water in my
outdoor pond, I was
wondering if freshwater clams could help in this matter?<Actually, they just
might. The green water is caused by unicellular algae that finds the sunlight
and fish waste a perfect growing medium, and this is just what many clams would
order if possible.> I have a lot of
fingernail clams in a creek where I live would these small clams help?<First
off, it would depend if the creek temperature is the same as your pond
temperature. In order to make a difference, you'd need a substantial number,
which could present some problems such as 1) what would they eat after they
cleared the water, 2) if they starved, you'd then be looking at a substantial
amount of decaying animal matter, which could cause a bacterial bloom much worse
than your current problem and 3) many native fish parasites utilize clams as an
intermediate host, giving you the potential for an outbreak that could, again,
be more serious than your current problem.> thank you.<You're very welcome>
Controlling Pond Algae 7/20/04
We have a pond about 1/2 acre in size by 2 to 3 feet deep. How
much rock salt and how often to control our algae?
Thank You, George.
<salting a pond this size may not be helpful or even lawful in your area
(contaminating ground/water). More importantly, it does not address the real
problem causing algae in your pond - excess nutrients. Your best long term
solution for this is natural plants to absorb the nutrients year after year. Do
stock with attractive lilies and bog plants instead. Reduce fish feeding if you
are at all... and have patience :) Anthony>
Brown Freshwater Pond Algae
Our large Koi pond has a coating of golden-brown colored "velvety "algae.
To my eye it looks dead, but our pond maintenance service insists that is simply
an alternate form of healthy algae. Every reference I can find to brown colored
algae describes something much heavier bodied such as kelp.
Is there such a brown algae as the pond man says? Or, am I correct to smell
something in the air other than brown algae? Thanks for your help! James
Wohrman
<There are indeed algae found in ponds of many colors, sizes, textures...
including brown as you describe. Furthermore, most algae can/do change their
apparent color depending on nutrient, light and to an extent water quality,
circulation dynamics... You might want to remove some of this algae, place it in
a good size (one gallon or so) "pickle jar" and add some tap water to about half
of its pond water... and see what happens by growing same on a window sill. Bob
Fenner>
K Tea, pond algae control, and lessons in human nature
Help!
I have been trying to find out how to contact you via the phone without any
luck. The entire web site does not have a phone number which is
unfortunate.
<Mmm, actually... as this endeavor is "all volunteer", we don't
have the time, flexibility to handle phone calls>
My problem is this: Last year I had someone build a small pond
(approx.. 15 x
25 feet, 5 feet at its deepest point, in a bean shape. It was lined
with a
rubber lining due to the porosity of the soil. After March it starting
growing these long and matted tentacles from the bottom. They then
began to
float but mostly disappeared when I turned on the water fall. I then
added
gold fish. They are still there. However a haze of green algae has
overtaken the pond and I cannot see to the bottom.
<Not atypical>
Reading articles tells me that what I need is K-tea, but it doesn't tell me
how much and for sure it does not tell me where I can purchase it.
I live in the Northwest corner of Ct. Please help me.
Jose Orraca
<... do you have a means of filtering this system? Are there live plants? I
strongly encourage you to investigate your options further here rather than
trying a chemical approach... Far better to avoid these issues through prudent
design, filtration and maintenance than risk poisoning your livestock. Please
read through the Pond subweb posted on www.WetWebMedia.com
Bob Fenner>
Re: K Tea, pond algae control, and lessons in human nature
Thank you for your quick reply. Actually, I don't have livestock
because I
am not a farmer.
<... okay, what sorts of life do you have in this pond?>
It is mostly a decorative pond. The filtration system is
part of the waterfall and it worked quite well at removing the floating
algae, but the water is still very murky, in spite of the fact that I clean
the filters quite often.
<What sort of filtration?>
There are no plants growing in the pond, other
than the algae, primarily because of the rubber liner. I do plan to plant
decorative plants around the pond.
<No potted plants... do you have any floating types?>
I have checked the options and in fact
the Connecticut Department of Environmental Protection recommended K-Tea but
they did not inform me where to obtain it.
As it is, the pond is very displeasing and I may have to drain it and find
other ways to improve my landscape, Thank you again.
Jose Orraca
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/Pond%20Sub%20Web.htm
Your system is "unbalanced" in general terms... you can seek to
"re-balance" it in favor of clearer water through a few methods...
trying to selectively poison it with "K tea" is not one of these. Bob
Fenner>
Koi consumption of phytoplankton
Hello Bob, John here. I'm not getting much of an algae bloom this year so far, so
I was wondering if large Koi will consume large amounts of
phytoplankton. Thanks again for your time.-John
<They don't eat any as far as I'm aware... very small/fry ones do consume
some. Bob Fenner>
Water Wizard (pond algal control device?)
Dear Sir/Madam. Herewith a link to a product we manufacture that assists
with excessive algae control. Use of it will contribute to increased business
and larger client base. Regards, Charles Sterzel
www.waterwizard.co.za
<Umm, I see you have "testimonials" on your site. Do you have any
actual "test data" that explain "what" your product does,
the actual experimental "effects" the device exerts on water? Bob
Fenner>
Oxygen depletion from Algae killer - 7/14/03
Hi Bob,
<Anthony Calfo in his stead>
Well, our goldfish are gone except one shubunkin, probably due to that heron,
raccoon or the snakes, however the four Koi that we added have survived and are
now 6 to 7 inches long and fat! Here is my new problem. We put Algae Fix in our
pond and the following day the Koi were lethargic, gasping for air and migrated
to our bogs.
<Arghhh... do check the instructions too (dreadful either way if the warning
is there or not): a sudden kill of algae/greenwater when water temps are high
can cause a sudden and rapid depletion of O2... the decomposition of clotted
algae from the product can do the same thing. Dose timing, aggressive water
changes and extra aeration are always recommended with such products>
They seem to be struggling a bit. We added salt and a bunch of ice to the pond
and they seem to be doing better. My question is, should we move them
to a kiddy pool for a while or just leave them alone? Thanks in advance!
Jennifer
<I believe its best not to move them. Do a sound water change (siphoning
detritus) and be sure to exploit aeration features (never turn any off at night
either as is a common habit). We may escape the treatment unscathed. Best
regards, Anthony>
Pond algae eaters
I live in Washington State and have a hot tub sized pond with 7
young Koi. I would like to introduce an algae eater and I'm not sure
what kind or how many. Thank you for your great service.
<There are a few cold/cooler water fishes you might try... of the minnow
family (same as Koi and goldfish)... but if it were my system of this size,
shape... in an area that gets this cold, I would look to other means of algae
control. Please read here re:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/pdalgfaqs.htm
Bob Fenner>
Pond Algae Control
Hello, I would like to get an algae eater fish for my small
pond. What would you suggest as I cannot find any articles
other than loaches. Would a Plecostomus survive close to
freezing temperatures? In my limited knowledge I am thinking
some type of cat fish species would do?
Thanks for you help.............. Frank
<Hey Frank, I have heard of people having success with Plecos in outdoor
ponds, but I think near freezing would be a little too cold for these fellas. I
would avoid catfish, most catfish will grow large and eat any other inhabitants
in the pond. Maybe the Dojo Loach to help scavenge the pond, but I
think freezing temps would kill these guys too (10-25C). Maybe a
different method of algae control is in order, please read below. Best
Regards, Gage
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/pdalgcontrol.htm
>
Removal of clumped algae
Good Morning,
I have a 1500 gal outdoor pond with Koi. My filtration system consists of a
Tetra TP3 filter. I have a 25 watt U.V. sterilizer after the filter, as
recommended by my local aquarium. My problem is algae is being clumped on my
pond floor and sides. 3" thick. When my fish move it totally clouds the
pond until the fish settle in one place. My question is this. What is the best
way to remove this clumped algae which is on my ponds wall and floor. My water
is crystal clear, and the fish are healthy. Please advise.
<Best to scrape, otherwise entangle this attached algal material on a brush
and remove... as a means of permanently removing bound-up nutrients... A note:
don't be too fastidious about removing all the algae... better to crop it and
have it about rather then free-floating types. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/pdalgcontrol.htm
Bob Fenner>
John Laurice
Earthen Pond Question
I own 7 acres have a pond 100 ft in length by 65 feet wide. I need
Oxygenators! but have a few problems.
<Okay>
1. This pond is in my back pasture and I cannot afford to run electrical
wiring for pumps etc 7 acres back so I am wanting Oxygenators.
<As in plants?>
2. I have Rosey Reds and Albino Channel Catfish in this pond already.
3. I have Welsh Harlequin ducks and African Geese who swim in this pond.
<I see... plant eaters...>
4. My livestock also utilize this pond to cool down and drink from
although they do have their own water troughs. The animals in question
are: Alpacas, Cows, Pygmy and Nigerian Dwarf goats as well as the before
mentioned ducks and geese.
<Okay>
I'm wanting something that is along the lines of a wildlife habitat but
must be safe and non-toxic to my livestock as well. I can't find any
information anywhere that states what can be used as water plants,
mainly oxygenators, that won't harm livestock.
Elizabeth Bonin
Bedias, Texas 77831
Grimes County
<Do check with your local wildlife agency/ies... but I would try
Hornwort/Coontail, Ceratophyllum demersum here... grown in some areas where you
can control it from spreading (if possible). This plant will absorb a great deal
of nutrients, grows under a wide range of chemical and physical conditions, is
relatively unpalatable to waterfowl, non-toxic to livestock... Please see here
re: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PlantedTksSubWebIndex/ceratophyllum.htm
Bob Fenner>
Cold water algae eaters
Hello,
I'm not sure if I'm going about this is the right way
but your website is one of my bookmarks and I think if anyone could help me you
can! I own a horse farm in WV (hence cold winters). In our fields we
keep several water troughs for the horses. They are all 100 gallons.
In one of the many magazines we get (horse related of course) they casually
mentioned the idea of keeping fish in troughs to cut down on algae growth.
This struck me as wonderful. As well as horses, I am a long time fish
lover with three very large fresh water tanks. Sadly they went into
absolutely no detail. The troughs are all hooked to automatic refillers
and so there is a constant (if not slow) changing of water (my thought was a
nice source of air for the fish). My first thought was of pleco's or some
sort of small catfish that would be fairly hearty and clean things up nicely.
But the more that I thought about it and as time passed I wasn't sure.
Have you ever run into a topic such as this?
Do you have any ideas. There are a few things I would like to be aware of
before I go any further... (I've tried to read up on all of this but strangely
can't find a "Fish in Water Trough" book. lol) Things I need to
know: In your opinion would this work and be safe for both fish and horses
since I do not wish to harm either?
I would most likely tank the fish during the winter and so that is to be kept in
mind as well. Which fish in your opinion would be hearty enough but not
out grow the tanks? Thank you for your time and I hope to hear from your
staff soon...
Algal Info. Search
I wanna know where can find information about organismal called pond Mat and
Spirogyra. I want to know the habitat, how they live, how they do everything
about these organisms. I hope you answer my question, because I have to show a
project of these next Wednesday. Thank you.
<Time to do a bit of searching... at a large College library. Please read
here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/litsrchart.htm
re literature searches, then off to see a reference librarian for help with the
"how" to find what is known re these algae. Bob Fenner>
Cryptic algae... questions... BGA in lakes
What do you suspect would be the best way to kill Cyanobacteria (blue-green
(algae) in a larger body of water, such as a lake, without harming the other
life forms in the pond? Is there a way to break down the photosynthetic process,
for instance?
Katie
<How big of a body of water are we talking about (gallons?)>. Your best
bet is to figure out what is causing the excess nutrients that are fueling the
Cyano. Is there any filtration set up on this lake/pond? Maybe add some algae,
plants, reed system, to compete against the Cyano. Let us know, Thanks,
Gage.>
Moss (Filamentous algae in a new pond)
I am new with the computer and the pond/water fall ownership.
<Lots of excitement!>
My son and I
put in a water fall and a 1500gal. pond in the front of our house. It has
nine gold fish and two bottom feeders. All seem to be doing well including
the various plants. This water feature has been completed for about three
months However, I have a big moss problem. This stuff is long stringy and is
hanging from the water fall and is all over the pond liner and plants. My
oxygenator plants look like a ball of this moss stuff. how can I get rid of
it and keep it clear of this stuff? I live in Cincinnati and the pond is on
the east side of the house.
<Many ways to counter these pest algae problems. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/pdalgcontrol.htm and consider what your possibilities are... perhaps more filtration, circulation, pH adjustment, shading... Bob Fenner>
re: Moss (Filamentous algae in a new pond)
Sorry to bother you again. I read the article you recommended and have
learned that I need some type of filter in my system. I didn't realize that
a filter was necessary for control of the chemistry, I thought that the
filter controlled particulates.
Thanks so much for your comments!!
<Yes to having a filter... and you're so correct re its impact on the overall health and appearance of the system. As you'll find, many folks build the filter for ponds first and foremost (it IS that important) and build the rest of the system, landscape around it. Take a read through the many design, construction and filter materials posted on the Pond Subweb: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/Pond%20Sub%20Web.htm
Be chatting, Bob Fenner>
Pond Algae Problems
I really hope that you can shed some insight on what I need to do next in my pond. I have 2 ponds, equaling 235 g. of water. I have talked to the aquatics department at the local pet store, and I have gotten no results from all 6 people I have talked to. In my pond which I have had for 2 years prior to putting fish in, I have 3 plants now and only 7 fish left out of 15.
<If these are goldfish, do not add anymore. You have a fairly small pond and goldfish get large.>
The major problem is the algae. My pond gets 85% of the days sun, and I think I have tried everything to control the algae. Here's a list of the products that I have been told to try: Stress Coat (only with new water), Pond Zyme, EcoClear, pH down, Pond Salt, Barley squares, Pond Blocks, Algae Destroyer. I have recently cleaned the pond 4 days ago, and only used the Stress Coat for 24 hours prior to putting the fish back in, and I have used the Pond Block (2 of them), and the Barley Squares, and I have a lot of algae again. The only other thing I have been told to use is algae eaters. My plants are numbered to 3 now, unfortunately, they have not made it through all of the chemicals. Please help me find some type of solution for my problem.
<You will not get any quick fix solutions from me. To me, it comes down to minimizing algae by proper use of plants. You have sun and nutrients, you will either grow plants or algae. All the various bottled product are unable to give you a long-term solution. Do make use of the extensive writings on WWM starting here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/pdalgcontrol.htm and following on through the blue linked FAQ files at the top of the page.>
Thank you, Gina Goss
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>
Blanket Weed
HELLO BOB, I WAS WONDERING IF THERE IS A QUICK FIX FOR BLANKET WEED OTHER THEN A
FORKED STICK AND A COUPLE OF HOURS TO SPARE? I HAVE SEEN "MAGNETIC
GADGETS" THAT ARE SUPPOSED TO DO THE JOB BY BEING PLACED IN/AROUND THE
FILTER OR IS THIS A FANCIFUL IDEA? CHEERS CHRIS.
<nutrient control is generally the key (water changes, small frequent changes
of chemical filtration media)... and a pond skimmer with a little salt in the
water also does the trick too. Anthony>
Algae and their Control in Biological Pond
Dear sir :
We are the marine shrimp farm owner in Thailand.
Having read from your Algae and their Control in Biological Pond we are very interesting.
Especially in your Mechanical Control Method.
Could you please tell me more about your two favorite method.
Now we have the problem of the blue green algae blooms in our shrimp pond and hardly for us to control.
Thanks in advance.
B/Rgds
Pairoj Simaroj
<I suspect you utilize lime treatments in your culture ponds intermittently to oxidize wastes, eliminate disease... and organic fertilizers for boosting food production to your shrimps (penaeids? Macrobrachium?). If you are sure that your current algae problems are due to eutrophication I would strongly advise boosting air exchange by introducing air (as in bubblers) into the deeper parts (centers) of your ponds... and possibly check your alkaline reserve (especially at early morning and mid afternoon... and possibly elevate this (use pH as an indicator)... slowly (with bicarb of soda... calcium oxide... careful here, slowly, if you must)... Do keep an eye on dissolved oxygen, and if the BGA becomes too prevalent, consider moving the ponds stock to another pond system.
Bob Fenner>
Re: alum
Hi Bob,
Well, someone had tried to use alum of some form to remove phosphates from our ponds. The results were not good as we lost several
Koi. But in reading I see that alum should be ok if used correctly. What other methods of removing phosphates are
available. Is just manually harvesting the best way?
Thanks, marc
>>
In all honesty (what else have I got?) you've hit the proverbial nail on the head. Other than doing what you can to prevent their introduction (design, construction to prevent suspicious run-off from getting into the system, maintenance (no fertilizer overspray, or overfeeding, over, easily-soluble fertilization for "other" photosynthetic life....), using controlled plant growth to "bioaccumulate" nutrients like phosphates and removing them via biomass (okay, no fancy terminology here, trash removal) is the very best (safest, surest) approach...
Be chatting,
Bob Fenner, not associated with the old Weco Corp. who used to sell Alum as... PondClear... and maybe still does.
Re: alum
Hey Bob,
Any recommendations on controlled plantings? We have approx. a 400,000 gallon pond. 1200
Koi, 100 birds, ducks, etc. some run off from grounds fertilizer. Is there perhaps an additive that can be used with the fertilizer to help it settle in the ground rather than run off?
Thanks again, Marc
>>
All sorts... and this is a tall order... the best would be to "shoot" concrete/shotcrete and some sort of supporting wire (like stucco or light cage material) in the basin(s) themselves.. during a drawdown period (i.e. with the water lower...) and contain the plantings there with sand, small grade gravel over their bases... and utilizing a slow release No-phosphorus type fert. tablet food source (if, where desired)....
Alternatively, a very likely suggestion... make an adjunct basin in the way of a shallow "swamp" area to grow sedges (typhaceans... cattails, tules...) and possibly other amphibious true plants for nutrient uptake...
And/or the issue of aeration/destratification to lower bioload, overburden... do you have a compressed air type unit on this feature? I would definitely install one and operate it continuously...
The waterfowl... I'm sure you've heard this, and would hear much more... but try to get rid of as many of these as possible... They're a maintenance and health (yes) risk...
Take a cursory read of the pieces from "Water Feature Design... " I have posted on the site: Home Page for a fresh beginning... some general understanding of your possibilities.
Bob Fenner
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