Belching Return Pump, Possible Air Leak   2/11/07
Hi Crew,
<Hi Jason, Mich with you tonight.>
I'm having a problem with my Quiet One 6000 return pump. Once every few minutes, it will spew a stream of bubbles into the display tank. This is preceded by a "shhhh" noise from the pump, like the sound of opening a soda.
<Sounds like an air leak.>
The pump is external, connected to the sump by about 14" of PVC plumbing as follows: (all 1") bulkhead -> threaded connector -> ball valve -> connector -> union -> pump. All slip connections are PVC bonded, and all of the threaded connections have silicone except the union->pump connector. The bulkhead intake is 12" below the water level of the sump, and it is not drawing air from the surface. On the return end, I have pump -> union -> connector -> ball valve ->
nipple -> vinyl tubing -> nipple -> elbow -> bulkhead.
<First place I'd check would be the vinyl tubing.>
Any thoughts on what is happening?
<Sounds like you're drawing air somewhere.>
My particular confusion comes from the intermittent nature of the problem... there's some sort of buildup followed by release of these bubbles from the pump. Would a simple loose connection or small air leak cause this?
<That would be my thought.  Have you tried checking for water leaks while the pump isn't running?  It may require the water to rest in the plumbing for a while before revealing itself.  The pumps may need to be turned off for more than a few minutes, maybe a hour or so.  Obviously make sure all the exposed plumbing is dry initially.>  
Thanks for any advice!
<Hope that helps!  -Mich>
Jason

Bubbles in Main Tank, cavitation? 1/13/07
<Ken, Graham T. with you tonight.>
I have a 180 gallon tank plumbed into the basement which dumps into a 300 gallon sump.
<Big sump. Good.>
The return line is 2" pvc to a hammerhead pump which pumps a head of about 12' in 1.5" pvc to the tank. I am circulating about 3,500 gallons per hour from the sump.
<I only see one hammerhead pump with a 2"inlet and 1.5" outlet, and it isn't rated for that head... but I probably missed the one you have.>
I also have a closed loop moving additional water within the tank with four returns. My issue is that I am having tiny bubbles returning from the sump to the main tank. The sump is very calm , tiny bubbles not visible and I have tried a return box with sponges to trap possible bubbles and multiple inlets to decrease the intake draw of water, nothing seems to decrease the bubbles. Can my powerful pump be chopping the water and creating air bubbles.
<That would be my guess. The large differences in pressure associated with pumping volume at that head with induce cavitation. Cavitation, simply put, is just water boiling because of the extreme low-pressure on the input side of your pump. Remember, it is not just heat that makes water boil, but pressure differential. Adding more lines to feed the tank will do little or nothing since the low pressure is found at the impeller-housing, after the 2" restriction. The real change must be made at the out-put stage. Unfortunately, if you do have the pump I spec'd out (Dart), then you may be undersized to boot. Either way, utilizing a low-speed pump, using multiple pumps, or enlarging the inlet-size of your current pump are all ways to reduce the unsightly bubbles you generate. HTH,
-Graham T.>
Thanks Ken

Will a MagDrive-24 Overheat My System? - 01/03/06
I would like to put a Mag-24 inside the main tank hidden in back running to an internal manifold with 6 outlets around the internal rim of the tank (120G) to provide only internal flow much like the one described in WetWeb.
<<This is feasible, though placing the pump "in the tank" does make for more difficult maintenance...and you will also find it likely that six outlets are too many for this size pump after head-loss>>  
The actual question is two fold.
<<Ok>>
1. Is a Mag-24 too much pump for an average aquarium with assorted corals and fish?
<<I guess that depends on your definition of "average"...but in this instance/with this size tank, no, not in my opinion>>
According to most charts with all the tees and 90's I will be adding about 10 ft of head to the pump leaving approx 1100 gph running for flow.  I believe you address this with about 350 or so at each outlet, I should be ok?...
<<Mmm, no...using these figures you will only be able to provide sufficient flow for three outlets (these are 1/2"?).  But, you may well find three outlets to be enough>>
2. I have heard they run hot, do you know just how many degrees I may be adding to the tank or will I be ok in this area.  This is of great concern to me.
<<Adding any make/type pump will usually result in a rise in temperature...and yes, the big MagDrive pumps can get pretty warm.  Just how warm?  Hmm, I think on a tank this size with this pump you could see a 2- to 4-degree increase in temperature.  How "hot" does your tank run now?  If you are at the upper limits already (83F-84F) then yes, this pump will probably push you beyond the "recommended" limits.  But don't discount the effects of evaporative cooling...the addition of a small fan or two to increase evaporative cooling can normally compensate for this small increase>>
The reason to add it to the tank is to make the tank as problem proof as possible.
<<I see...and of little consequence re "heat" issues as adding the pump to the sump would have the same effect>>
No hoses running to and from the tank just for flow.  It would be all internal.
<<Can be/has been done, though as stated it does make servicing the pump/loop a bit more hassle>>
You guys are great by the way.
<<Thank you...tis a pleasure to assist>>
Sometimes I get information overload on here just reading to learn.....wow.
<<Hee-hee...indeed!>>
r/
Kevin
<<Kevin, unless you're already "maxed-out" on heat in your system you can probably add the pump and deal with the heating issue without having to employ a chiller.  Regards, EricR>>

SW Pb, valves  10/03/06
Hi
<Greetings>
I have 2 mag drive 9.5 pumps. I tried to contact the company that I purchased the pumps from and they have yet to reply to me. I was curious if I would be able to place a ball valve on the return line... would this damage the pump in any way....
<Yes you may. A gate valve would be a much better idea though as they provide for finer adjustment among other positive attributes. Be aware that there is a limit to how far you can throttle these pumps down before they will shut off or overheat.>
thanks
<You are welcome - Emerson>
Adam Dusza

Tufa has been removed
Thanks for the informative response the other day. 
<always welcome>
The Tufa rock has been removed, not only from my tank but also from my property. The vendor kindly refunded my purchase price on the returned goods.
<a good way to honor/keep a customer>
This evening I was again reading the FAQs and noticed with alarm that I have one of the well advertised and less well loved Lifegard pumps. It is presently on its second motor. <yes... the "Not-so-stainless steel" shaft that leaks>
It will not receive another. Given that the life expectancy of this circulator is certainly limited I am in the planning stages of replacing the thing. <a great pump for freshwater though> The manufacturers rate the capacity of their pumps in the face of various head losses. Without going to engineering tables, what do you use as a rule of thumb to add head restriction for 90s and other fittings in addition to the easily measured physical lift from sump to tank?
<add one foot of head for each elbow, valve connection and ten feet of horizontal run in addition to the height>
My tank is 48 x 18 x 20 inches and came equipped with a 1 1/2" standpipe. I built an 18 Gal sump to increase the water volume a bit and to have a place to add essentials. Would you be so kind as to recommend the appropriate MagDrive (as they are available locally) to hustle all of the water around at the required rate?
<I believe that there is a mag 1100/1200 that would be quite comparable to your Lifeguard if you are otherwise pleased with the flow>
I sincerely enjoy the fruits of your collective labors.
Cheers, from B.C., Fred.
<thanks kindly, northern friend! Anthony Calfo>

Foreign Particles in Tank/Using the Wrong Pump Pads - 09/04/06
Hello crew how are you doing?  Hope you are all fine and well.
<<Hello...EricR here, and yes, doing well thank you>>
The last time I asked you a question was last year concerning my pistol shrimp.  An update on that is that I have 2 yellow watchman gobies that have paired with this one shrimp, and that is the coolest thing in my tank.
<<Indeed!>>
Ok, I'll build into my question.  Basically what happened when I first got the tank was that the pumps were noisy, so the person from my LFS gave me some cushioning I can put under them in the sump.
<<Some folks use rubber "mouse pads" for this...Neoprene also works well>>
Unfortunately, this material has dissolved into what looks like dust particles and its pretty nasty.
<<Yikes!...obviously they gave you the wrong material to use>>
The problem is that these particles don't go away and are on the bottom of my sump, and are covering significant portions of my live rock hiding a lot of their beauty.
<<That's not good>>
I was wondering if you knew if I can get a sieve or very fine filter to eliminate this stuff?
<<Hmm, you can try placing a filter-sock over the end of the pipe outlet from the tank overflow>>
I was thinking of putting it in front of the return hose from the sump, so that over time it will all be collected.  Do you know if this is possible?
<<Not sure I understand what you're saying...if you mean the pump return to the tank then no, I don't think that is practical...better to try my idea or something similar to trap the material as it returns to/processes through the sump>>
To give you a better description of the 'dust', it looks like small brown strands of dust.  I know there are products to eliminate cloudiness by making smaller particles clump together, do you know if this is possible?
<<I wouldn't recommend using a flocculent here, it may do as much/more harm than good by clustering/smothering your micro-organisms>>
I hope my question is clear, it's sort of a unique problem so I hope you understand what I'm asking.
<<Try the filter-sock, or even placing some filter floss in the flow path through your sump.  Also, once the filter material is in place, use a turkey baster of similar to stir up the "dust" in the display tank to help it get to the sump for trapping/removal>>
Thanks for your time and help!
<<Regards, EricR>>

Mag Drive Pump Slowing Down   8/1/06
Hello Wet web,
<Hello Mike>
One question for you. I have a Mag drive 9.5 pump that pumps water through my chiller 4' below my tank and back up 4'. The pump has slowed down dramatically since I installed it (1 1/2 months ago). Are these pumps not meant to pump with this configuration?
<I would disassemble the pump and look for blockage in the impeller chamber.  This pump has a maximum head of 14 feet and should work well with a chiller providing the chiller lines are not restricting flow.>
Thanks for the help,
You're welcome,  James (Salty Dog)>   
Mike

Optimistic Flow Rates - 07/11/06
First of all great website, I've learned tons and spent hours reading posts, thank you.
<<You're quite welcome...glad you find the site beneficial>>
I tried to find my question but had no luck.
<<Let's see if I can help>>>>
I have a 300 gal FOWLR with a 50 gal sump.  I am running two twin tube hang on the back overflows, both with twin 1" drains.  I read I should be gravity feeding 1200 GPH for each box totaling 2400 GPH to my sump.
<<Read?  Where?  No way on Earth you're gonna get 1200 gph to "gravity flow" through a 1" drain.  1200 gph may be the "rated" flow on the overflow boxes...but it's not going to happen with a single 1" drain>>
My return pump is the Mag 2400.  I want high flow as I have groupers and triggers in this tank.
<<Mmm, yes...most all fish species appreciate good water flow.  Though I'm skeptical when it comes to processing this much water through a sump.  But if the noise, bubbles, splash is not an issue with you...>>
I used 1" for everything.
<<Not big enough>>
Right off the pump I have a check-valve, spring type from Lowes and a ball-valve on top of that all in the return line.
<<The check-valve is not a good idea.  Aside from metal contamination from the spring and the huge lose of flow incurred when using these devices, the valve will inevitably fail at some point...usually when no one is around for a long period.  Much better to adjust your skimmer boxes, return lines, and the water level in the sump to handle all transient water when the power is off.  I'd also like to suggest you replace the ball-valve with a gate-valve...will give you much more "finesse" when flow adjustment is necessary>>
Then it goes up the back of the tank and tee's to the ends when I have a 90 up then a 90 over then a 90 down and a 45 into the tank.
<<Mmm...head pressure indeed.  Between the check-valve and the elbows I doubt your getting little more than half the rated flow of the pump>>
I hope you can picture this.
<<I can>>
The problem is even with all that head pressure from 10 90-degree fittings, the ball-valve and the 45-degree fittings, I can't run the pump at even 50% or the aquarium overflows.
<<Not surprising.  At the "most", I think you should expect 500-600 gph from the 1" drains...about half that if you want a bit of a "safety margin" or to keep things quiet>>
I have to turn the ball-valve closed by almost half way for the tank to not overflow.
<<Indeed>>
Will changing the return plumbing to 2" help fix my problem?
<<Ahh yes!  Will improve things by a huge margin>>
Very confused, and lots of different formulas and theories.
<<Agreed...and most seem a bit "optimistic" to me where flow rates are concerned>>
Please Help.
Thank you,
David
<<I hope I have.  Regards, EricR>>

Pump Restrictions  7/9/06
Hi, how are you?
<Let me try my best Tom Leykis impersonation "Hunter.. Do you care?" - I'm fine thanks for asking.>
I have a question about restricting your pump's output, i heard that restricting the input can burn the motor while also hearing that restricting
the output will do no damage at all.
<No damage but will create head-loss rather quickly.>
Then the other day my LFS employee said you can not restrict a pump's outtake too much or it will ruin the motor.
<Depends on how much back-pressure there is and if the pump is built to handle it.>
I  have been running a 20 gallon FOWLR + a cleaner shrimp with only nitrate  being my only problem, but that is kept under control by weekly water changes of 5 gallons. However i am moving up to a 90 gallon and am running two life guard filters (mechanical and chemical) just incase i ever need them with a wet dry and 15 gallon refugium mainly for nutrient export and nitrate reduction.
<The canisters (mechanical/chemical media) is s detritus trap and probably the source of your nutrient problems...you need to replace these with a large protein skimmer.>
My main pump is a mag drive 2400. i know this is too
much but can i use it if i use a ball valve on the output to restrict the water flow.
<Should be okay, put I would be careful as to how much you restrict it.>
Thanks Very much for any info.
<Anytime.>
A young up coming aquarist
<I'm young....or so I'm told.>
Hunter
<Adam J.>

Blueline Pump Noise   6/16/06
Hi Crew:
<Gregory>
It’s been a while since I needed to bother you guys, but…?!
I have a new Blueline pump and it is making a lot of noise.  It is hard to tell whether it is from the pump or the PVC leading to the pump.  It might be cavitation, but how to tell??
<Drain the water from this plumbing, turn the pump on and listen...>
I have a 2” drain that is eventually cut down to a 1 ½” ball valve and then the 1” input for the pump.
<... there should not be such a restriction/ball-valve in front of the pump... this, like most centrifugal pumps made for aquarium applications is for "pushing" not pulling... in other words, you may well have a cavitation issue>
One interesting thing (at least to me) is that when I pour my water change or top off water near the input to the pump, the bubbles make the pump almost silent.
<Dangerous to mix water and air together here...>
I don’t know if that means anything but thought I would mention it.
I thought these pumps were pretty quiet, so thought I would ask.  Have you guys heard anything…have any suggestions for me??  Thanks, Greg
<Mmm, you've tried opening the ball valve completely? I'd remove any intake screens from this side of the pumps, and see if this quiets this pump down... you may have air trapped around the impeller/volute that could account for this noise as well... this can be a bit hard to remove, but may be able to be flushed by pressurizing the line (like with a garden hose) while the pump is temporarily turned off. Bob Fenner>

Regulating Pump Flow... Inadequate Factory Overflows - 06/12/06
Hi Crew,
<<John>>
I bought an Eheim 1262 to use as the return from my sump to my 90g (with AGA Megaflow).
<<I love Eheim pumps...wish we could get some of the bigger ones over here>>
It's a great pump, but it seems too powerful for the Megaflow system.
<<Not so "Mega-", eh?>>
Actually, I should say it seems too powerful to run the Megaflow quietly - water rushes though the system and it sounds like a dishwasher.
<<Typical of these undersized (Mega or not) factory overflow systems>>
I've read through the FAQs and this seems like a common problem.
<<VERY common>>
One suggestion that helped was to increase the diameter of the hole at the top of the Megaflow drain tube.  However, my system is still extremely noisy, unless I pinch and restrict the flow coming out of the Eheim.
<<Replacing the Megaflow drain tube with a Durso-style standpipe might allow both an increase in flow AND a reduction in noise...but still no replacement for the simple want/need of a larger throughput>>
So my question is (finally) is it safe to add a ball-valve on the return side of the Eheim, or will this produce too much back pressure and jeopardize plumbing connections?
<<This is quite safe and satisfactory, though I would install a gate-valve as opposed to the ball-valve for better "finesse" of the flow.  Magnetic drive pumps such as the Eheim respond to/endure this type of control/adjustment very well.  But do make sure you install the valve on the "output" side of the pump>>
Would it be better to step down to the Eheim 1260 and let it run unrestricted?
<<Not in my opinion.  The plumbing lines will eventually start to restrict from bio/mineral accumulation...but with a twist of the valve you can step up flow to compensate>>
Thanks,
John H.
<<Quite welcome, EricR>>

Isolate vibration of closed loop pump... Newspeak re pumps, plumbing   6/6/06
I have done a lot of research into closed loop systems, I plan on installing one on my next system.
In the many photos I see of closed loop external pumps they are almost always plumbed right to ridged PVC pipe.  I think it would be quieter and transmit less vibration to connect the pump with some type of soft connection to isolate vibration, I have seen just one picture of this type of setup.  Your thoughts are much appreciated.
Stephen Blalock
<... Let's see if I interpret what you seem to be looking for... I do agree with the approach of utilizing a bit of flexible tubing at the junction mentioned... for the purpose of reducing vibration for a few ends (most notably noise and shimming of connectors over time, salt creep and leaking...), as well as making a connection that can easily be broken... This being stated, the same can be achieved by securing the pump to a stable platform, using true union couplers... and this latter is more favorable in terms of not reducing intake (important) and discharge flow through induced drag with the flexible plumbing and added fittings to attach same. Bob Fenner>

Bad Pump?    6/4/06
I've got a Maxi-jet power head, and can't seem to get the water flow started.  Is there a trick to this?
<'Tis a plug and play product...if it's new return it, sounds defective.>
Pete.
<Adam J.>

Teeing off to two pump intakes  - 04/27/06
Hi crew,
  It may be stupid question, but I'll ask it anyway!  Is it possible to tee off two external pumps from one bulkhead fitting?  If so, is it recommended?
   <Mmm, in general a poor idea. Most small aquarium pumps are centrifugal, designed to push, not pull... restricting their intake results in a loss of efficiency, generation of more waste heat, shortened "lives". Bob Fenner>
  Thanks   
  Scott Griswold

Tank Overheating With Many External Pumps - 04/25/06
Good morning all,
<<Hello!>>
I've spent at least a couple hours every day looking over the problems that others have had, and this has helped me beyond words in setting up my new 150 gallon tank.
<<Mmm, yes...not repeating other's mistakes...>>
So, first I just want to say thank you for taking the time to help all of us!
<<A collaborative effort...you're quite welcome>>
I've been battling a problem with my external pumps overheating my tank.  My water temperature reaches 85+ degrees in the winter time when the ambient room temperature is 64.
<<Wow!>>
I have an office fan blowing cool air on low from behind the canopy to keep the temp at around 79 degrees.
<<Sounds fine...I utilize fans and a small chiller to maintain my tank at around 80F in the winter, and around 83F in the summer>>
Yesterday, we finally broke the 70 degree mark outside, and our house heated up to around 78 degrees.  I had to use both office fans on high to keep the tank below 84 degrees, and that's without my halides!
<<Does seem excessive>>
I know that 84 degrees is tolerable by many animals, but this seems to be an excessive amount of heat exchange when it's coming from just the pumps, and 20 degrees of heating without lights or a heater makes for a huge hurdle going into summer.  
<<Indeed!>>
Here's some info about my tank:  Dimensions: 48x24x30 (LWH)
Canopy and stand are made from MDF and 2x4 constructions. The canopy has an open back for more air flow, and 4 Ice Cap variable fans in the canopy top exhausting any heat in the canopy.  Ebo Jager 250-Watt heater - removed to determine that this was not the cause.  Pumps:
- Blueline HD70 - 1750 Gal/Hr - 290 watts (Panworld 200PS-MD70R) - Closed Loop at the rear of tank to 1" spray bar with 1/2" tees.
- Blueline HD30 - 590 Gal/Hr - 90 watts (Panworld 50PX-MD30R) - AquaC EV180.
- Iwaki WMD 40RLXT - 1080 Gal/Hr - 1.9 Amps (218 watts?) - Tank return tee'd off to two SQWDs so each corner of the tank has random flow towards the reef.
- Dolphin AmpMaster 4000/3000 - 3000 gal/hr through 1.5 inch pipe -1.21 Amps (140 watts?) - Closed loop at the bottom of the tank, 1.5" tee'd into (2) 1" pipes the go to opposite ends of a spray bar with 1/2" tees.
True flow is probably about 2000 gal/hr because of the way it's plumbed.
Lighting:
- (3) 95 Watt VHO (custom hood lacks room for 46.5 inch bulbs) (2)
50/50, (1) Actinic
- (2) 250 Watt HQI Ice Cap reef pendants with (2) 10K bulbs (halides not being used yet)
Chiller:
- Pacific Coast 1/4 HP Chiller (not used yet, because I don't want to mask the problem), it's rated to cool 150 gallons about 20 degrees.
This won't be big enough if I'm using it for my pumps & halides during summer.
<<I'd still give it a try before going "bigger">>
Sump:
- Sump - 25 Gallons (a little small for the evaporation rates I'm getting which is approximately 3 - 4 gals/day.
<<May seem like a lot for this size system, but is not excessive...contributed to by the fans...low relative humidity in your house/area>>
So, a lot of info for an implied question.
<<Mmm, yes...and no real "clues" that anything is abnormal regarding your equipment/setup>>
Is this a normal amount of heat given my pump selection?
<<Is a lot of pumps...some heating would be expected, but generally not to the extreme you describe>>
Are any of these pumps known for heat issues?
<<As compared to some others...no>>
I've tried plumbing my AmpMaster 4000/3000 with 2" PVC and not use the Blueline 70HD, but with 2 spray bars in different locations it was nearly impossible to achieve the flow rates I was hoping for, because of all the Tees & 90 degree elbows.
<<Understood>>
I've cleaned all of the intake screens, and I've positioned the pumps so their exhaust is not impeded.  None of the pumps seem hot to the touch, more like a warm cup of coffee.
<<Hmm, curious...what about the impeller housings?>>
Any ideas would be of great help,
<<I think first you have to isolate the source causing the problem.  Shut down all but the return pump and see if the water temperature falls.  If it does, fire up the other pumps one at a time and evaluate each pump for its heat exchange/transfer capacity.  If you find the offending pump, perhaps it is an aberration and fixing the problem will be as simple as changing it out with another (gee, it's easy for me to spend your money <G>), or maybe scrutinize the plumbing for something that may be contributing to excessive heat...like excessive head/back pressure.  You're only/best option at the end of the day may be to fire up that chiller>>
Thank you!
-David
<<I'd be interested to know what you discover.  Regards, EricR>>

Tank Overheating With Many External Pumps II - 04/26/06
Thanks Eric for your quick reply,
<<Quite welcome David>>
I have checked all of the impeller housings, and they all seem to be clear.
<<Okay>>
I started shutting down the pumps individually and waited several hours to see if I could isolate the problem.  I found that the
Blueline HD70 was probably the biggest contributor with a temp drop of around 5 degrees.
<<a lot>>
I went back to reading WWMedia about plumbing pressure rated pumps, and I came across an article from Mr. Fenner explaining that these pumps want to push rather than pull which makes
sense, but it got me thinking about the plumbing.  I have more bends and elbows on the intake side than the output side, and now I'm flashing back to a problem I was originally having which was cavitation on the intake vinyl tubing I originally installed.
It was completely cutting off the intake flow after a few minutes of operation.
<<Ahh...maybe on to something here...have to think starving the pumps would certainly cause a rise in temperature>>
Now I'm planning on replumbing the intake to 1 1/2" from the bulkhead like this:
1 1/2" Bulkhead fitting---Ball Valve---barbed nipple---spa-flex---barbed nipple---Union--1 1/2" to 1" threaded reducer---Blueline.
This will give me more to draw from, and get rid of the elbows.
<<Much better my friend...with one observation.  Unless you have the valve here to allow removing the pump (for service/replacement), I recommend you place your valves on the "output" side.  If the valve is there for servicing the pump, then I would place it as "close to the pump" as possible>>
Anyway, thanks for putting me on the right track with isolating the
problem, and thanks to everyone there for your collaborative efforts!
<<Have no doubt you would have figured it out...but you're very welcome>>
Just a quick side note:  Don't mount this pump on the backside of your stand, because there's a lot of low-end vibration that resonates though the cabinet and even the floor like an electric raiser on a bass drum.
<<Very true>>
Also, to further minimize the vibration from these pumps, go to a
computer store and buy a gel-filled mouse pad that would normally go under your wrist to keep it straight when using a mouse.  I put one of these under the pump, and voila!!!  Nothing but a quiet fan.
<<Indeed, I even use vibration dampening pads under my submerged pumps...this, combined with a “short” run of spa-flex or flexible vinyl tubing at the pump inlets/outlets can make a world of difference.  EricR>>
-David

Equipment/Pumps/Cavitation    4/10/06
Hi,  <Hello Mark>
You're are best hope at solving this problem.  I have had a reef tank for about 7 years now.  I would now consider myself pretty experienced at all
things water/pumps/etc.  I am now stumped.  I have a 120gal w/55gal sump (sump is located below main tank in basement).  It's a great setup since I
can do water changes, maintenance, etc. easily.  In my continuing effort to improve things I removed the pump to my skimmer and I tapped into the main
return line (which goes to main tank) to run my skimmer.  This pump can run both w/enough power to spare.  My problem is the tee I inserted inline now
causes air bubbles in show tank. I thought of inserting a "Y" instead, however, I am not sure this will prevent air bubbles as well.  Any and all
suggestions are appreciated.  Thank you in advance for your help.  <Mark, I believe you are drawing air somewhere in the newly inserted "T".  James (Salty Dog)>
Best,
Mark

Equipment/Pumps    4/6/06
Hi I've read through your articles and I know I've seen one on this but I can't seem to find it again.  I have a Mad <Mag?> drive 1200 pump connected to a downdraft skimmer.  The pump will run quiet for a while then start making a suction with gurgling noises the same way a bathtub does when you drain it.  Do you have any suggestions on how to fix this?  <Sounds to me like the pump is sucking air, water not high enough above intake.>
Thanks,  <You’re welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Danielle