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FAQs on Anemone Behavior in Marine Aquariums 2

Related Articles: Anemones, Bubble Tip Anemones, LTAs, Cnidarians, Coldwater Anemones, Colored/Dyed Anemones

Related FAQs: Anemone Behavior 1, Cnidarian Behavior, Anemones 1, Anemones 2, Anemones 3, Anemones 4, LTAs, Bubble Tip Anemones, Caribbean Anemones, Condylactis, Aiptasia Anemones, Other Pest Anemones, Anemones and Clownfishes, Anemone Reproduction, Anemone Lighting, Anemone Feeding, Anemone Systems, Anemone Identification, Anemone Compatibility, Anemone Selection, Anemone Health, Anemone Placement

A Close-up of an Actineria sp. pic by DianaF in N. Sulawesi.

An ID Question (flatworm) and Anemone Behavior Issues  6/27/08
Crew-
<Craig>
May I please get a positive ID the first attachment? From what I have read, it appears to be an Acoel flatworm of the genus Convolutriloba.
<Is a flatworm evidently>
If possible, can we confirm what behavioral info you might have and point me to it?
<Mmm, not following you here... what beh. info. re what?>
Additionally, can you speculate that these flatworms would be suitable prey for Chelidonura varians, the "Blue Velvet" sea slug?
<Might be... but if they're numbers are low (enough) I'd ignore them>
For some time I have wanted to purchase one of these animals, but have never went down that path since I knew they were specialized predators that I  could not feed on a consistent basis.
<Correct... and when prey numbers are low... it/they "disappear"...>
Right now, these flatworms are in the midst of a population bloom in an aquarium that only has a pair of percula clownfish in a BTA. I have added a pair of peppermint shrimp, but they have not had an appreciable impact on the population of flatworms.
<Many are unpalatable... as you likely are aware>
Also, if these guys pose any risk to my aquarium inhabitants or even my copepod population I would rather introduce a predator or siphon them out. It seems that is the consensus of the responses on WWM.
<Okay; glad to find you've searched>
The second attachment is of a BTA I purchased about a month ago. I wanted to contribute to the knowledge base about some observations I have had with this animal. It is probably the 10th BTA that I have owned - the others I have sold to other aquarists after pairing various clownfish species and getting the pair to host in the anemone - it's just something I enjoy doing. It's often a challenge to pair clowns up (especially maroons) and even more so to create to commensal relationship between clowns and their host anemones.
<Interesting... that you state/find this symbiosis to be such, rather than mutualistic>
I believe I have read on the site that the behavior of BTA is more sedate than other anemones; meaning that while all anemones can/do wander, BTAs tend to find a rocky crevice and lodge their foot inside.
<Mmm, most so with successive asexual clones here>
I have found this behavior to be true of all the BTAs I have kept until I brought this one home. THIS anemone wandered around all night for about the first two weeks. Each evening it would fill itself up with water at the end of the day and then it would go on trips around the aquarium. Each morning I would move it back to the place I wanted it to occupy and it would attach itself there for the day. I thought, "Well, evidently the anemone will tell ME where it wants to stay and I will like it."
<Yes to the former, hopefully so for the latter>
Interestingly enough, the LFS had it in its display tank and it had never moved the whole month or so they had it; in fact, we had to chisel it out of the rockwork just to get it home. Both my tank and the LFS run MH lighting:
theirs a 250W at 10K, mine a 250W at 14K. I have about 15X water flow per hour, the LFS had about half that. About a week after bringing it home, I knew something was amiss with nocturnal roaming of the BTA, so I went back to the LFS to check their water parameters. It turns out they run their SG at 1.023 and my tank was at 1.025. When I lowered by SG to 1.023, the anemone promptly returned to the place I had been trying to keep it and it hasn't moved since!
<Interesting as well. Coincidence?>
The third attachment is of a carpet I bought the same day as the BTA.
Could you confirm whether it is S. gigantea, as I suspect?
<Looks to be... on the basis of the pedicle>
It is in a different system than the BTA and currently hosts a pair of black ocellaris clowns.... which is very sweet. The SG of the system I found this guy in measured 1.028. I took most of the day I bought it acclimating it to 1.026 SG, which is the highest I feel comfortable keeping the tank at. It was under a single 10K VHO bulb in a plumbed in 29G tank at the LFS,
<Much too low>
now it's under 400W of MH in a 92 corner bowfront.
Apart from its weak coloration, it looked great at the LFS and I have to say it does look a little less turgid these days than when I bought it (its tentacles are longer and not as "plump", but it eats weekly and has NOT moved once since I introduced it to the tank. I found this ironic since the guidance on WWM indicates that carpets tend roam excessively.
<Some do when first brought in from the wild, but exceedingly rare once settled. Heteractis magnifica are the kings of travel>
I guess we can try to observe general tendencies among species of aquatic life but there will always be exceptions.
<Well-stated>
At this point, I have a pretty keen eye to catch the behavioral cues that anemones exhibit to show how they are doing in a captive system. Would you suggest gradually letting the SG increase to 1.027-28 and see if the carpet really does prefer such a high SG?
<Mmm, no>
Part of me feels like it should have settled in by now and be looking better - I can say its coloration has darkened significantly (since it has better lighting) but it doesn't seem to be as large as it once was and I suspect the SG may be a little too low for its liking. I am not worried it would die tomorrow, but I am thinking long term here about what parameters I need to stick to.
<Near natural seawater, NNS>
I am sure that had I not been reading WWM for years now and researching some of the overarching principles of marine aquaria I would have at least lost the BTA. I remember back in my early days I probably would have been desperately trying to FIX something instead of focusing on stability and incremental changes, if needed.
<Ahhh!>
I definitely wouldn't have suspected SG. I wouldn't have even considered that my instrument might need to be calibrated. I definitely would have thought about ammonia, or even nitrate, as a culprit....but not SG. So many thanks to all you at WWM for your contributions to the many of us hobbyists out here. We are all definitely made better for your efforts in what we do.
Thanks!
Craig
<Thank you for sharing as well. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Anemone Losing Tentacles – 2/28/08
HI
<Hello Lewis, Brenda here!>
I have a 100gal reef tank and an extremely large anemone that measures about a foot in diameter.
<Is large, but they can get much bigger.>
It has been in my tank for about 3 or 4 months now. I've noticed that it sheds quite a good amount of tentacles then re-grows them. Is this common for a Sebae anemone?
<No, this is not normal. There is likely something bothering this anemone. What else do you have in your tank? Such as fish, crabs, shrimp, etc. To be safe, please give me a list of your water parameters and equipment. There is more information found here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anemhlthfaq6.htm >
Thanks, Lewis
<You’re welcome! Brenda>

Anemone Activity... beh... misplaced...  2-12-08
Hi WWM Crew!
<Good Evening.>
My husband and I have a 65 gallon, live rock tank that has been up and running for over a year now. We recently made the mistake of purchasing a puffer fish (without researching first) that ate both our cleaner shrimp and banded shrimp.
<Yes, they have quite the taste for invertebrates. I have about 15 here.>
Our (and their) terrible mistake as we really enjoyed these small creatures and had actually trained them to eat out of our hands and our grandchildren loved to feed them. So, we thought we should ask lots of questions and read what we could find before adding an anemone and clown fish to the tank. We were assured that none of the fish we had would bother the anemone.
<Good.>
Well we brought home our new fish and friend just 3 days ago. The day we brought the anemone and clownfish home they were a very happy couple. They were both healthy and feeding right away. They are housed with a blenny, a green bird wrasse, the puffer, three humbugs, 2 damsel fish and a star fish.
<A little too overstocked I think. What kind of puffer do you have?>
The problem, day 2 at their new home and the anemone was shrunk down as far as it could. The clown fish could not convince it to open and continued to try and feed it. Today we came home from work, and there was the anemone wide open and looking happy and healthy again. We went out for the evening, and once again...the anemone is shrunk even smaller than before.
<What kind of lights are you running and how often?>
We have checked the water quality and all levels are very good to excellent.
We were told, and have not been able to find anything to the contrary on the internet or in our books, that the puffer and wrasse would not be an issue with the anemone. Is this true or is it likely one of them is picking at it?
<It is not likely due to the stinging factor that the anemone has. I have heard of puffers having a taste for them though but have never experienced it myself. If something did pick at it, they would receive a very unpleasant surprise. Puffers and anemones are not compatible though because puffers are very inquisitive and there is a chance that they can get stung to death. >
Is this normal behavior for an anemone? We haven't been able to find the answers anywhere else. Please help us, very soon, as it is such a beautiful creature we would hate to have anything happens to it.
<Anemones contract and expand during the day depending on mood and lighting. When it gets dark they rear back and at the brightest light they are wide open. What kind of anemone is this? Check this link for more information on anemones: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm;>
Will you only post this to your site or will you email us personally as well? How long will it take to get a response? We are concerned that if too much time passes we will lose the anemone. The pet store we deal with will take back any fish, etc. we discover don't mix well. If we know the answer to these questions we might be able to solve the problem before it's too late.
<Not life threatening, just normal behavior. –Yunachin>
Karen & Randy

Re: Anemone Activity, beh.   2-12-08
Hi Folks the answers to your questions are below and follow ****
<A little too overstocked I think. What kind of puffer do you have?>
****The False-eye Puffer, Canthigaster. ******
<What kind of lights are you running and how often?>
****Two Lights both 46"
****1st Make GLO Power GloT5 High Output 54w
****2nd Make GLO Marine Glo T5 High Output 54w
**** Both lights run 11 hrs a day.. Come on at 11am shut off at 10pm on a timer.
<Everything sounds just fine to me. Like I said, anemones expand and contract during the day normally. They also contract when eating a delicious meal and also while digesting. They will also position themselves in the tank to where they will receive ample lighting or to get away from it. If you think it is contracting too much, cut down on the lighting in your tank and see if that helps.>
Thanks for your quick response.
<You’re welcome.—Yunachin>
Randy

Roaming Anemones, Zooxanthellae – 1/13/08
<Hello, Brenda here>
I need help with my anemone.
<Okay>
I've had it for over six years with no problems ever. It has divided six times but recently I did an h2o change and it was havoc. One of the guys disappeared completely. I have a trickle down sump system with bio balls.
<Bio balls can be a nitrate factory.>
I never found her anywhere. Then they all started moving all around and haven’t stopped.
<If the anemone has died in your system, this can cause toxic ammonia levels.>
The h20 I use is always the same from a RO/carbon filter.
<Is it time for the filters to be changed?>
The only difference with this h2o change was, I used stress coat that was a little old but it didn’t stink or wasn’t even brown.
<Why did you use the stress coat? It is not needed. I would discontinue its use.>
Two of the anemones escaped and I found them in the bio balls, one looked dead and was stinky the other one didn’t stink but I didn’t think would live so as hard as it was I through it out.
<Yikes! I would have given it a chance. Many anemones have recovered from incidents like this.>
I then did another h2o change and all but one stopped moving. Then the original anemone turned stark white and has stopped moving but is still white.
<It has expelled its zooxanthellae.>
My tank is not at my house due to the fact that I don’t live on grid so I some times don’t see them for a few days and probably don’t feed them as mush as I should.
<Healthy anemones do not need to eat everyday. However, I would feed the bleached anemone tiny portions daily.>
I don’t want to loose my host it is the home to a mutant clownfish that I have had for 9 years. My clown fish is so mean that it has killed every fish except a Dragon Goby. Recently I found a matching clown fish that he accepted and lives with. My tank is very healthy and never has any levels of anything bad I haven’t tested my ph in awhile so I'll do that tomorrow.
<All levels need to be tested immediately.>
I feel very confident in my skills and have worked at marine labs, have a custom aquarium business and have had two salt h2o tanks for over 10 yrs. but blah blah blah. I just want to save my anemone and am looking for as much help as possible, can you think of anything that I might not know or have over looked?
<I need to know more about your tank. I need to know the size, and equipment you are using. I also need to know the amount of flow, amount of lighting, age of bulbs, and exact water parameters including temperature, salinity, pH, nitrate, nitrites, ammonia, calcium, and alkalinity. What do you feed the anemones?>
Thank you so much for your time.
<You’re welcome! For future reference, please correct you grammar and spelling. I have corrected it this time, but can not continue to do so. See here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/WWMAdminSubWebIndex/question_page.htm Brenda>

Anemone normal behavior or do I have a problem? 11/18/07
Good day WWM,
<Hello Josie, Scott V. here.>
My name is Josie. I'm so glad your site is there for me to search; however, I am having trouble navigating the site. I love reading through the FAQ's and the articles but sometimes I just can't seem to find what I'm looking for. I have a question on Anemone Behavior. First thing’s first though. My tank equipment and parameters are as follows:
55 g show tank with 20 g sump with refugium and deep sand bed about 5-6" thick (sugar fine sand) in both the tank and the sump refugium that has now been set up for about 6 months (we cycled the tank using BioSpira for about 4 months before we added any inhabitants as we wanted to ensure the parameters were stable first.)
Lighting: 342 watt total with 1-150 watt HQI (10000K); 2-96 watt (Dual 460nm/420nm) actinic by Current/Sun Pac
Protein Skimming: Corallife Super Skimmer Needle Wheel 125 g
Canister Filter: Marineland Magnum 350 Pro (350 gph) (I also have PolyFilter in the canister for phosphate removal as well as other bad stuff)
Refugium: Two bundles of Chaetomorpha and One Grape Caulerpa and lots of copepods.
<One algae will likely choke out the other in time.>
Water Circulation in Tank: 2 Hydor Koralia 2 Water Circulation Pumps (600 gph)
Tank: 90-100 lbs of live rock, 1 smooth leaf red kelp
Tank Inhabitants:
1 - BTA (E. quadricolor)
1 - Condylactis sp. Anemone
<<... trouble. RMF>>
2 - small Maroon and Yellow Stripe Clownfish (observing larger one being more matriarchal and smaller one being more the "slave")
1 - Duncanopsammia axifuga (Whisker)
6 - Nassarius snail
6 - Dwarf Scarlet Hermit Crabs
12 - Margarita Snails
2 - Fighting Conchs
3 - Peppermint Shrimp
Tank Water Parameters:
Calcium - 380 ppm
Alkalinity - 15 dKH
<On the high side.>
pH - 8.2
Nitrates - 0
Nitrites - 0
Ammonia - 0
Temp - 78.8
Magnesium - 1300 ppm
Maintenance Regimen:
5% Water Change every Friday and Monday (vacuum sand every Friday)
<Should not need to vacuum the sand, only a very occasional stirring perhaps. Your livestock list should provide quite a bit of stirring in a 55 gal.>
Clean all filter media, sponges, etc. weekly.
<Good.>
Moonlights on in morning 30 min, then add actinic on for 30-45 min, then add metal halides on for 10 hours; then the MH are turned off, 30-45 min later the actinic are turned off and then the moonlight is turned off about an hour later.
Water test for pH, Salinity, Magnesium, Nitrite, Nitrate, Ammonia, Calcium, Alkalinity every Friday
Supplements: Purple Up every 2 days; Liquid Calcium daily; Iodine daily;
Essential Elements weekly; Strontium & Molybdenum every 4 days; Micro-Vert every 3 days
<Not a fan of so many supplements (especially the Purple Up). With your livestock list your water change regimen should be sufficient for trace element supplementation. If anything you will need calcium/Alk additions, and only according to your test kits. The iodine can reach toxic levels if not monitored.>
Feeding Schedule:
Mysis with garlic supplement to Clownfish daily; Mysis with Phytoplankton to whisker every 3 days; Mysis to both anemone's every 3 days
<I would feed the anemones once a week at most.>
I have had a BTA in the tank for about 3 weeks and everything seemed to be doing fine. The Clowns have been taking great care of him and feeding him Mysis as I fed them and then 3 days ago I added a Condy Anemone to my tank (upon advise from the LFS as being OK. ARGH) and now the BTA has gone into hiding and been curled up into a ball most of the time. The clownfish are doing everything they can to take care of the BTA and coax him out of the cave he shoved himself into. I did not know at the time that Condy's were not necessarily a good choice for the type of tank that I have. The two anemones have not contacted each other; however, I'm not so stupid to think that they don't know each other is there. At least the BTA seems to be reacting to the addition in a negative way. Is this something that I should consider removing the Condy and returning him to the LFS or will this pass?
Josie B
<I would remove one or the other; anemones don’t play well with others; corals or other anemones. Some water changes should help, as well as some new carbon. I would lay off the supplements, if you don’t test for and monitor it, I wouldn’t add it. It makes for more work, expense and adds more paths for things to go wrong. Water changes are the best way for trace element addition with your livestock. Good luck Scott V.>

Re: Anemone normal behavior or do I have a problem? 11/18/07

Hello again WWM,
<Hello.>
Thank you very much for your advice. <Welcome.>I am considering purchasing the test kits for phosphate, iodine, silica, boron, copper, strontium, and dissolved oxygen. What are your thoughts on the electronic methods using probes instead of the reagents?
<The electronic monitors are nice, but by the time you account for calibration times and cost you might as well stick with traditional test kits. All the testing is generally not necessary, especially once your tank is well established, but I am also a nut about knowing what is in my water, it is kind of fun.>
I found a site that offers these tests in a laboratory setting: www.aquariumwatertesting.com weekly, monthly, or one time for a fairly nominal fee. <Interesting.>Which macroalgae would be best, Chaetomorpha or the grape Caulerpa? I would think the Caulerpa would be best but it seems there are mixed feelings on which is really better, if any at all. I have ensured that it gets light 24/7 to prevent it from going "sexual" as I have seen it called, and disintegrating.
<I personally prefer Chaetomorpha, but either works fine.>
The alkalinity is high and the only thing that I know that I can do that will bring that down is water changes. <Yes.> Should I do a few 10% instead of just 5% water changes?
<The amount of work is about the same. If you don’t mind the extra expense in salt the 10% wouldn’t hurt. Keep up on the water changes, this is where many aquarists start to slack off thinking everything is going fine.>
Thank you for the clarification on not needing to vacuum the sand, I would much rather stir up the top a little every once in awhile rather than vacuum it. The reason we do vacuum it is the detritus that can accumulate on the sand and makes it, well, unattractive. I worry that that it will harm the animals so I remove as much of it as we can.
<Good circulation and eliminating dead spots will keep this in suspension to be filtered or skimmed out. The idea with the DSB you have is to leave it undisturbed as much as possible to get anaerobic activity going on in the bottom layers.>
We have considered getting a calcium reactor to minimize the amount of calcium that we need to add and also to regulate the alkalinity a bit better.
<They are a nice addition and big investment. You can also see good results with a two part additive such as B-Ionic by ESV which includes most of the required trace elements.>
It might have to be an after Christmas purchase ;-) We have temporarily moved the Condy to the refugium until tomorrow when I can take him back to the LFS. The carbon was changed last week. We will probably change it out tomorrow when we do the water change. Again, thank you for the assistance.
<You are welcome, I too would have chose the BTA. Happy reefing, Scott V.>

Anemone and a Big A** Clam are Attached! 10/22/07
Guys,
<Ya got one of the girls tonight!>
Any idea how I can get a big bubble-tip to separate off of a big clam shell that I have in my tank?
<Sometimes a little gentle persuasion with a credit card can do the trick but you must be very careful as not to injure the foot. If you can, under careful observation (so that the anemone doesn't get injured, i.e. sucked into an overflow/powerhead etc, which you hopefully have covered to prevent this in the first place or damage any other creatures in your tank) you can figure out a way to make the anemone unhappy with its' current location, such as shading it, you might get is to detach on it's own.>
it seems the base of the anemone has its base attached to the shell, so my clam will only open about half-way, and it's (the clam) just plain not looking good?
<Yes, you should address this.
How can I safely get that sucker off of there?
<Can be a challenge! I wish the in-house anemone expert was available, she may have more suggestions, but she is unavailable because of a death in her family.>
You guys are awesome!
<Thank you for your kind words.>
thanks,
Aaron
<Welcome! Mich>

Making Friends With His Anemone! Anemones lighting and positioning    8/13/07
My anemone, Medusa, was seemingly doing well and perhaps he still is but he has recently moved to the top of the tank which is obviously closer to the lighting but also closer to the water flow from the Penguin filter.
<When anemones move, they are generally telling us that something is not right for them in their present position. Typically, this is related to water flow and/or lighting.>
When he was in the lower position, he looked happy
and he was eating. Should I be concerned that he has moved so close to the top? What do you think this movement means? Is he not getting enough food? Light?
<As you suspect, this is usually a response to some parameter being not to the anemone's liking. Observe the anemone's behavior in it's new position. In particular, pay close attention to the animal's orientation to the lighting and flow. Is it closing up? Is the animal trying to orient itself into the flow, or away from it? Is the animal feeding, has color changed, etc?>
2nd subject: Algae. I recently bought the Nova Extreme fixture and ever since I have had an awful time with red algae on my rocks. I've tried to limit the lighting time but that still hasn't solved the problem. Do I need to increase the water changes?
<Typically, algae blooms are a function of nutrients in conjunction with lighting. Increased lighting intensity and/or longer photoperiods alone do not cause such blooms. Be sure take into consideration the entire picture. Could your source water be high in a nutrient that algae favors? If so, the increased lighting could result in such a bloom. If you're using RO/DI water, do check the membranes/prefilters to assure that they are not saturated. If they are, of course, replacement would make a big difference. Water changes with properly conditioned water are never a bad idea, of course, so do keep them up. Frequent, consistent small (like 10% of system capacity) water changes are never a bad idea.>
Happily, my water parameters are all good. Thanks in advance.
My tank:
Blue Regal Tang
Yellow Tang
Coral Beauty Dwarf Angel
Tricolor Fairy Wrasse
Royal Gramma
Mandarin Dragonet
Scissortail Dartfish
Redfire Shrimp
Green Fluorescent Mushrooms
Sand Sifting Sea Star
Snails: Bumble Bee, Super Tongan Nassarius, Mexican Turbo, Zebra Turbo
Lots of rock, decorative and live
Equipment
55 gallon, 48x12x18
Penguin BioWheel 350
SeaClone 100 Skimmer
Nova Extreme T-5 Fixtures w/Lunar Lights (48" - 216 watts) 2 SlimPaq 460nm Actinic and 2-10000°K T-5 HO lamps
18 watt turbo twist UV sterilizer
<If it were me- I'd keep up the water changes, observe the anemone continuously, and be prepared to take action, if necessary for the anemone. Do review those water parameters regularly (particularly phosphate, silicate, and nitrate)...these parameters can give you some clues about what may be causing the algae bloom. Continued success to you! Regards, Scott F.>

H. crispa... "owner" – 07/24/07
My white anemone are starting to turn brown. What might be the cause? they were white with purple tips
<Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/sebaebehfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. RMF>

 
Washington contacts, Clone Anemones  - 7/20/07
Hey guys!
<Howdy>
I'm on a trip to Seattle, and I plan on visiting the U of Washington up there to check up on their eligibility as a school for me to attend. I was wondering if any of you guys know a professor of marine biology that I could speak to get to know what the marine science programs are like at the school. Thanks for your help!
<No longer know any of the staff there... but is still regarded as an excellent fisheries school...>
PS
Here's a pic of some anemones that I saw today on the beach on the Oregon Coast...reminds me of the tide pools back in California!
<Mmm, because they are... Anthopleura elegantissima... you are experiencing ecoclinal variation... these actinarians are larger, more robust going northward... Larger still off of WA. Bob Fenner>

Re: Washington contacts, Anthopleura   7/20/07
Ah, you're right! They are bigger! And it seems like the Puget Sound's fauna is always gargantuan...
<Ah, yes. The congener A. xanthogrammica gets to about the size of small trash can lids there... This "Giant Green Anemone" off San Diego, is palm-sized at best. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Re: Washington contacts  7/20/07
Yes, that is about as big as I've seen them in the SoCal.
I just came back from the Oregon Coast Aquarium and the OSU Hatfield Marine Science Center. The aquarium reminded me of Scripps! Excellent crustacean exhibits, especially the O. scyllarus tank and the spiny lobster tank, oddly enough sharing space with a Salarias blenny. A big one at that!
<That or food!>
The Marine Center was quite excellent as well. A little more academic, but I can appreciate that...looks like OSU is now a choice for some marine bio studies! I hugely recommend these two institutions to any visitors of the Newport / Yaquina Bay area.
Good speaking to you, Mr. Fenner.
<Just Bob please. And thank you. BobF>

How do I handle an Anemone? – 6/24/07
Hi
<Hello, Brenda here>
I just started a SW tank up and was thinking about purchasing a BTA. Is it ok if you touch it when you put it in the tank? Will it sting me? What other way could I put it in?
<Your tank should be six months old minimum before adding an anemone. Anemones need established environments. Anemones can sting you. I have been stung a few times. It is best to wear gloves when handling an anemone. Brenda>

Hawaiian Condylactis, Anemone beh.  6/6/07
Hi there -
I recently got a Hawaiian Condy.
<... Really? Have never seen this genus out in Hawaiian waters.. nor have any authors of my works on marine life there>
It took immediately to my tank and only moved slightly from the spot I put it (guessing that means he's happy there).
<Mmm, not necessarily>
I feed him very small pieces of shrimp every 3rd day or so, which he takes without problem. I've noticed that he seems to stay open all night, and then close up at some point in the early morning. (I leave for work around 3:30am, he's open then; and return around 9am when I find him closed up) Is this normal?
<Can be, yes>
From what I've read on your site, anemones tend to close when the lights go out, correct?
<As a general rule, yes>
My actinic lights are on for about an hour before my daylights go on - could he be reacting to this in some way? Any thoughts?
<May simply be acclimating to this setting... takes weeks to months...>
Thanks so much - LOVE your site, a wealth of great information!
-Chris
<Please send some pix along if you would. Bob Fenner>

Shrinking Anemone – 5/13/07
Hi there,
<Hello, Brenda here>
First I have a 159 gallon tank with two 150 watt metal halides and two actinics, salinity is at 1.024 I bought an anemone a few months ago.
<You’re salinity is a bit low, gradually bring it up to 1.026.>
I think it is a Heteractis sp.
<Which one?>
or, gelam.
<Not sure what that one is.  Your lighting is a bit low for keeping anemones in that size tank.>
It lives in a rock that I bought with the anemone.  It doesn’t look very good it seems to be shrinking and the tentacles don’t inflate anymore.  I feed it frozen brine shrimp twice a week.
<Brine shrimp has little or no nutritional value to anemones.  Try feeding it some silversides.  You can also try krill, raw frozen shrimp, Mysis shrimp, or lance fish.  I suggest keeping the silversides as its main diet.  You can also try soaking the food in Selcon for some added vitamins.>
I have a clown fish that cohabitates with the anemone.   I also have been feeding it frozen plankton.  This last week it didn’t seem to hold on to the food very well.  Pleas help what is wrong with my anemone?
<Sounds like you have a few things going on here.  I would definitely consider upgrading the lighting soon.  Good luck!  Brenda>

My new BTA is Shrinking, Entacmaea quadricolor –  2/28/07 
<Hi Josh, Brenda here>
I just got a bubble tip anemone 4 days ago on a Friday evening.  Sunday morning 10:30 it looked great, then I left and came home around 2:00 and it was shriveled up to about 1/4 of the size and excreting a white/clear slime.
<It is expelling waste.>
Also, the mouth was enlarged and looked inverted with some curly stringy stuff coming out.
<Yikes!  Is the anemones mouth tightly closed the rest of the time?>
For all practical purposes it looked about 10 minutes away from death.
<I have seen that often.  I remember being in a panic the first few times. My anemones have me trained now.>
I checked all my water parameters and everything was great, I did a 10% water change anyway.  We then left again around 4:00 and came home around 8:30 and he looked great, completely re-inflated and actually the overall body looked bigger than the day before.  
<Great!>
He did well all day Monday until about an hour after I got home and he started shriveling up again and this time was excreting a brown substance which I am assuming was waste.
<Yes, anemone waste is not always the same color.>
He then continued to shrivel up as bad, or worse, than Sunday morning.  I though he was a goner this time for sure.  Nothing I could do at this point but to just wait it out.  He was still that way when I went to bed around 11:00.  I got up the next morning and checked him before I went to work around 6:30 and he was completely re-inflated again and yet still looked even bigger and perfectly healthy.  
What is he doing?
<Possibly acclimating to your lighting.  Do you know what kind of lighting it was kept under previously?>
From what I understand, anemones don't typically shrivel up that bad right?
<Wrong, they can shrivel up to almost nothing.>
I know it is hard diagnosing without a picture.
<Yes, but we still try.>
I don't know if it is just still acclimating to my tank or what.  
<Yes, it is likely still acclimating to its new home, but will still expel waste from time to time.>
Does the anemone coming back what seems bigger each time have any significance?
<Not necessarily, would need to see a picture.  My guess is that it is still part of the acclimation process.>
I have yet not even seen a picture on the web with one shriveled up as bad as mine was.
<I can fix that.  http://www.karensroseanemones.com/deflating.htm  Great website!  Be sure to read through all of it.>
Any ideas?  
<Most of what I’m reading seems normal.  The curly white appendages you are seeing, is not typically seen externally on an anemone.  Are you over feeding?  I suggest meaty foods, no bigger than the anemones mouth 2 – 3 times a week.  Make sure you have adequate lighting, filtration, and water parameters.  Also make sure your anemones color is up to par, meaning no loss of zooxanthellae.  If you have any more problems or questions, please give us your exact water parameters, including salinity and temperature along with your equipment list, age of your setup, other tank mates, and a picture if possible.>
Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks very much - your website is extremely helpful for so many other things I want to learn about.
Josh
<You’re welcome!  Good luck with your new anemone!  Brenda>

Sea Anemones/Acclimation 2/16/07
Hi guys,
Hi Billy>
I have recently placed two sea anemones in my reef tank.  They are lying on their side, and one looks like its fingers have been sucked dry.
Will they puff back out and stand up.
<If water conditions/lighting are to their liking, they should soon bloom.
Going through an acclimation stage right now.  Do search Sea Anemones on the wet web for more info.  I'd post a link here, but that file doesn't want to
come up right now.>
Thank for all your help
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Billy  

Disappearing anemone   12/11/06
Hello
<Hey Kirsty, JustinN with you today.>
Recently I purchased an anemone, a week or so later it split in two.
<Not uncommon for an anemone to split, but it usually doesn't occur this quickly..>
We knew they did that, but we noticed yesterday that one half of the anemone had disappeared, it was no where to be seen.
<Curious>
I have woken this morning to find that the other one has gone. Could something have eaten it. All we have in the tank is a shrimp, two clowns, Fiji devil and a possum fish. Do they disappear?
<Mmm, no>
Kirsty
<If I were to guess at the cause here, I would assume that either conditions in your tank, or initial shipping alone, was problematic for the anemone, causing stress. This led to the early splitting of the anemone, and subsequently, both halves likely were already on the downfall at that point. After dying, they could have been consumed as well. Are you testing for toxin levels in the water? These may tell you more than looking would... Hope this help! -JustinN> <<Mmm, could be "hiding" as well... RMF>>

Is anemone looking for a fight    11/28/06
Hello everyone, DiAnn here. <Greetings to you!  Mich here.>  First the  basics: 55 gal tank, approx 45 lbs of live rock; live substrate; bio-filters; protein skimmer; UV sterilizer with Fluval filter; ammonia, nitrate and nitrite 0; ph 8.3; alkalinity 8; temp between 79-80 degrees. <OK>  Livestock: 1 yellow tang; 2 percula clowns, 1 rusty angel, 1 cleaner shrimp and 1 coral banded shrimp; also, anemone (I assume some type of long tentacled) live rock with green star coral and one bunch of pulse coral (all doing fine,)  My question: the anemone which seems to be getting bigger by the week seems to be slowly making its way toward the star coral <Not uncommon, it may grow quickly, it may act strange and then cleave itself into.  It may be perfectly content where it's at, but one day it may decide to wander around your tank...sometimes with very unpleasant results...have seen overflows blocked and entire systems wiped out.> Is it looking for a flight <What airline services your tank? It will win any fight, and may relocate at any time>. Should I move the star coral to another part of the tank?  <Yes, but realize the anemone can go any where it wants.> Any information regarding this problem would be greatly appreciated. <Please keep reading, start here:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
Thanks.  <You're welcome.>

Anemone mouth missing, no useful info.   8/22/06
This morning I checked on our anemone and found it looked like a donut. The mouth was missing.
<Mmm, just folded in on itself>
I thought it was dead and reached it to take it out and it closed up. Is it splitting?
<Not likely>
It has been having problems. Bleached color. I research your web site and found my lighting was wrong. The fish store people were more than happy to sell me a better lighting system and apologized for telling me I only need a skimmer. I am now not sure how bad the anemone is damaged and if it will survive. Thanks for any info you can provide and thanks for a great website.
<... not much to go on here. Not even the species of anemone involved, water quality, set-up notes, the old/new types of lighting... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Anemone Beh.   8/18/06
WWM Crew,
Howdy from Alaska,
I have a question in reference to a E. quadricolor.  I have had this anemone for a little over a year, it has grown very well, and play host to a A.  frenatus, Tomato clown.  Yesterday I found a detached tentacle on the bottom of the tank and one floating in the water (still inflated).  Overall health of the anemone is normal, i.e.. color, attached, eating.  My question is simple, why?  Could this be a form of propagation, a initial turn towards death, or just something that happens every now and then that is unexplained behavior?  Water quality is fine, and lighting  adequate.
Thanks,
Bryan
<Mmm, have seen anemones "excise" tentacles at times... don't think this has a reproductive function/aspect to it... as not "enough" mesoderm is transmitted to form a G.I. tract, no pedicle... Might be somewhat akin to some lizards tails... a reactionary behavior to predation. Bob Fenner>

How sticky should an Anemone be?  6/25/06 -
I have a 75g tank, 50lbs LR, all water params good for an anemone.  The tank is approaching 6 months old, and everything is very stable.
I picked up two green BTA’s last week – they look great, moved around a bit but settled in after 2 days and haven’t moved in about 3 days. They look
full, respond by retracting when I have to reach in the tank, etc.
I’ve waited a bit to feed them (as I’ve read on other sites), but since have tried several times to give them frozen squid bits as suggested by the LFS.
The pieces are small (under ¼”), and thawed.  
The bits of food seemed to stay within the tentacles for a bit, but eventually floated away.
Today I tried thawed Mysis, soaked in garlic flavor enhancer – given to them gently with a baster.  Most of it just floated away, even after making
contact with the tentacles. Some of it seems to have stuck to the bottom of the disc, and now they’re retracting a bit, I assume to work the food towards their mouths.
1) Should the food be sticking better to the tentacles, 2) if so, is this problem a sign of a) bad health, or b) acclimating to my tank?
TYVM!
Scott S.
<<Scott:  It can take several days for an anemone to adapt to your tank.  During that time, they may not be that interested in eating.  BTA's are nowhere near as sticky as other types of anemones.  In the past, if my BTA's were not too interested in food, I have placed a small chuck of food (say a part of a silverside) right into the oral disk.  Usually, the anemone will retract and consume the food.  You can try to feed them a little bit every day until you are confident that they are eating regularly.  Most likely, you don't have anything to worry about.  I feed my anemones about 1/2 of a silverside every few days. Best of luck, Roy>>

Anemone excreting stuff
 - 06/22/2006
Hi
< Hello! >
We have a long tentacle anemone in a 40 gallon reef tank.  We successfully are keeping alive 2 other anemones', several fish and invertebrates.  The water levels are all excellent and we do water changes once a week or once every 2 weeks.
<  Sounds like good husbandry to me. >
He seems to be healthy, eats well, is staying put in his little spot between rocks.  But, a few times now, he seems to throw up.
< Definitely not an attractive bodily function, (not that many are!) >
This bubble, about the size of a quarter is secreted from his mouth.  It looks brownish-pinkish, it is like a bubble gum bubble.  Like a mucus bubble, but with water inside.
We have this white with black dots crab that lives on him and cleans him. He eats this stuff when it comes out, so it's not there for long.  I think he has done this 3 times in 3 weeks.  Do you know what this is a sign of?
< It is most likely defecation or regurgitation of uneaten or unprocessed food. It is a fairly natural occurrence, if you have not noticed this action/reaction before from your other anemones, it may just be that the quantity of food this particular anemone is getting is too much! > <<There may be something going on twixt these anemone species... not compatible in this size volume. RMF>>
Thank you!
< I hope I was of some help.
RichardB >
Thank you,
Sarah Leslie

Re: Anemone excreting stuff    6/26/06
This puts me at ease.  I truly appreciate you taking the time to respond to my email.
< You are very welcome! >
  Your site is great!!!
< I cannot take credit for it, these guys do a great job around here! >
thanks again
Sarah
< Anytime!
RichardB >

Green BTA Triple Split  - 03/12/2006
Hi guys!
<Robin>
Two months ago I bought my first anemone, a 6-7 inch diameter Green Bubble Tip Anemone. I've been feeding him/it a thawed Formula One gel cube about
once every three days and he has seemed pretty happy. I did the usual 20% bi-monthly water change over the weekend and it was uneventful, but now in the past 24 hours something interesting has happened to him. When I went to do the usual B-Ionic dosing this morning I discovered that overnight my BTA had split in two!
<Happens>
I thought to my self, "Cool!" and went off to work. Gotta pay for this aquatic addiction after all. When I got home from work tonight
I was very surprised to see that I now have THREE anemones!
<Bonus!>
The larger of the two clones had split again. Have you ever heard of a BTA splitting itself into thirds like this?
<Yes... usually under some "stressful" cue...>
Am I correct to assume that my anemone reproducing like this means I'm really starting to get the hang of this reef tank thing?
<Mmm, actually the opposite... this "fission" is most often a "means" or function of dangerous influence reaction... the animal dividing to "hopefully" (teleological but instructive), live by "doubling its chances" in two varying environments. Bob Fenner>
Thanks!
Robin

Anemones/Behavior  2/18/06
Hi, <Hello Dori>
I have been reading non stop about anemones and have been unable to locate the information I need.  Could be panic is setting in?  <Maybe.> Anyway, I hope you can help.
I have had this bubble tip anemone for a few months and after the first week of adjustment he settled in quite nicely and the clowns took up residence.  About two weeks ago he began to behave differently.  His tips shriveled and his mouth extended. He would close up and later emerge, mouth ok, but his tips never achieved their original form.  A few days ago he decided to relocate, and has not stopped since.  He has made his way all around the tank and up the glass to the top. He is currently hanging upside down on the front glass part of the tank.  ok - I stand corrected - he just launched himself. He is not torn, nor is he oozing anything. his mouth is relatively tight and his tips are very tiny now.  
Is he dying?  should I remove him to prevent the rest of the tank from issues?  the clowns still follow him most of the time, but on occasion they hang out in the torch.  (so much for loyalty). <Dori, when anemones are on the move it generally indicates they are not happy with the conditions present.  It may be lighting, water quality, too small of a tank creating constant parameter shifts, etc.  Provide a little more info please.  A good article for you to read on BTAs.  Gives some insight as to keeping BTAs.>
Any advice?
Thanks in advance <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Dori

Anemone on it's Side... need ID, info...   2/7/06
Hello,
We recently, two weeks ago, purchased an anemone for our aquarium that has been set up for over a year.  In the shop, it looked great.  It was  embedded in the sand and the owner of the store took great care in removing it  from the tank.
<Good>
Once we got it home, we put in in our tank and just  waited.  For two days he embedded himself in the sand, just like in the  shop.  Then on the third day, he came up and began laying on his  side.
<Not good>
He's still as beautiful as on the first day, not shriveled up or  anything.  We have feed him only twice since we've had him.  He eats  readily and seems to enjoy being in with our clown fish, but he only lays on his  side.  We have sent our water for testing and we have better water quality  then in the shop!!  Yeah for us!!  Our lighting is also suffice.   The store owner says that anemones are sometimes picky,
<Yes>
but since it's eating  and not dying, we shouldn't worry.  I would just feel better if it found a  spot and took root.  Any ideas?  Thanks
Brian
<... see WWM re Identification... need to know the species here... its preferences, habitat in the wild... and match it. Bob Fenner>
 

 


 

 

 

 

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