Ritteri anemone help... reading  6/13/08
Hello Shea here. Got a quick question for you guys, yesterday I had purchased an anemone from my local fish store. When I bought it the owner told me that it was a BTA and was labeled as such. Now today it is fully open and no longer looks like a BTA but a Ritteri!
<Mmm, can you send along a pic... or desc. of why you think this is a Heteractis magnifica? The color, make-up of the pedicle? The tentacles aren't telling here>
It won't anchor itself to my live rock or in the sand.
<... perhaps something else going on>
I know that they have a poor survival rate but my 2 Perculas love it! Any tips on getting it anchored and keeping it healthy are much appreciated.
<... posted on WWM>
Here is my system info.- 20 gal.
<... much too small for either species>
High glass tank, 24" double lamp fixture with 130 watt power compacts, penguin bio-wheel 150, SeaClone protein skimmer, rio 600 powerhead, 26 lbs live sand, 15 lbs live rock. Thanks, Shea
<Read: http://wetwebmedia.com/CnidIndex2.htm
Bob Fenner>

Deflated E. Quadricolor, BTA, More information needed – 5/18/08
<Hello Marilee, Brenda here! >
My bubble tip anemone has been deflated for the past 3 days, and today when I checked it the mouth is white and quite swollen.
<This doesn’t sound good. >
I can't get a picture because it's in a location that at the back of the aquarium and near the bottom. Its tentacles and just hanging, not puffed up at all.
<Do you mean bubbled? Is this anemone receiving any flow? If it starts to fall apart, remove it quickly. Be prepared for large water changes. >
My 65 gallon tank is established with a bubble anemone, star polyp, mushroom, and a few others.
<How long has this anemone been in your tank? What are you feeding? How often and what sized portions? If you have a lot of star polyps and mushroom coral, you may have some chemical warfare going on here. Are you running carbon? >
Nothing has changed, all tests ok except the most recent additions were a colt coral and red starfish.
<I need numbers here. What is “ok” for one animal is not necessarily ok for anemones, especially long term. >
I do have a sally light foot crab who just shed its skin for the second time, could it be bothering it?
<Crabs are known to sometimes bother anemones. What other livestock do you have? >
The only thing I can think of is that the protein skimmer is above (at the top & outside) and we are having a problem with vibration. It can get noisy.
<I doubt that is the problem, but I would try to correct it. >
Marilee
<Brenda>

RE: Deflated E. quadricolor, BTA, More information needed – 5/24/08
First my apologies for not replying sooner, but I think part of the problem was mine. She/he is still alive, all weird growths are gone. It's coming out of hiding. I didn't realize I had to feed it (poor baby), but I bought
some fresh raw shrimp, cut it into little pieces and froze it. I'm now feeding and my anemone is loving it, grabbing the food and closing over. I feel badly but was told it didn't need anything, can't believe everything
you are told. Reading, reading, reading....critical
<Yep! Very much so! >
I now have another question. My supplier has an incredible brain coral but it isn't an open one, actually it's shaped like a human head or brain. Can you send me a link with more info on this? I could only find open brain
coral.
<I sure can. Here you go: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/faviidae.htm Please read through all of the links at the top. Also, I need the answers to all of my questions to be able to make sure this anemone is being kept under adequate conditions. >
Thanks once again. Marilee
<You’re welcome! Brenda >

Mann's / Hawaiian Maroon Anemone – 06/11/07
I'm looking for some information (light, feeding, flow etc.) requirements on the Mann's or Hawaiian Maroon anemone (seems to be different than a maroon anemone).
<Mmm: Cladactella manni (Verrill, 1899)...>
These are one of the only Anemones found here in Hawaii
<And rare there... I have never encountered one... having dived the islands hundreds of times.>
and I would like to keep one. The LFS that sells them says that they need turbulent water flow, but not intense lighting. Not too much info. out there, can you help? Thanks in advance, your site is a blessing to the hobby.
Gary
<I am also "in the dark" re this species care... From what little I see on the Net, this species is not easily kept... Please read this one favored account: http://saltaquarium.about.com/cs/invertebrateincare/l/blpickhianemone.htm
And do write back with your experiences re this Actiniid. Bob Fenner>

Re: Mann's / Hawaiian Maroon Anemone   – 06/19/07
Well unfortunately this anemone has died! Much like the about.com article mine just slowly shriveled up and began to disintegrate.
<Mmmm, yes>
He slowly started turning soft & his tentacles began to lose their "stickiness". He moved around initially but quickly settled into a spot that he seemed to like. I tried to target feed him some brine after several days of acclimation, but the ones that stuck to his tentacles weren't brought to his mouth and were quickly nabbed by other inhabitants.
System details: I have a 55 gallon system with a live DSB of about 5" and approx. 50.lbs of Molokai Live Rock (www.Hawaiiliverock.com).
<Neat!>
Water quality was excellent with no detectable ammonia, nitrites and/or nitrates. Water flow/filtration is provided by 2 Magnum 350's in each rear corner (only 1 of which is used for carbon, the other is strictly for flow with no media), a larger CA1000 powerhead and an AquaC Remora skimmer. I concur with the about.com article in saying that this particular anemone is probably not suitable for the aquarium (or if it is, its specific needs have yet to be identified).
<We are in agreement here. BTW, likely your message prompted my writing pc.s on the large anemone species used in the trade/hobby... Did Heteractis crispa... Am onto Entacmaea...>
The anemone is collected near over by the Blowhole in the intertidal zone where it receives a lot of turbulent water flow and highly oxygenated water that would be difficult at best to reproduce in the aquarium (I have never seen them while diving either, even at Lanai lookout or the Blowhole dive sites). The funny thing was the anemone's color never really changed and it was pretty difficult to tell that it wasn't doing well, but slowly open wounds began to appear and some of my cleaner crew began trying to feed on these wounds.
I am hoping that my experience combined with the experience documented on about.com will discourage the future purchase and collection of this anemone. Thanks for all that you do for our hobby!
Many Mahalos.
Gary
<Thank you my friend. A hu'i hou! Bob Fenner>

Carpet..., just read   10/8/06
Hi WWM Crew
  I have a 30 gallon tank.  Would a Stichodactyla haddoni (Carpet Anemone) fit in my 30 gallon tank?
<Nope>
  Because they get large.  I have a powerhead I am going to use for extra water movement for the anemone.  Also what lighting requirements are needed for the Stichodactyla haddoni?
  I am making sure that I research before I buy.  
  Thank you for your reply
<Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/carpetanemones.htm
and the linked files above. BobF>

Re: sea anemone.. Carpet..., just read   10/8/06
Thank you for your fast reply.  I will have to find another interesting invertebrate.  One more quick question.  Why do anemones need so much light?  Because if you feed them meaty foods why would they need the light.  They do not do photosynthesis.
  Thanks
<Most do/can derive a significant portion of their nutrition through photosynthesis... Please, keep reading. BobF>

LIGHT MY WAY!!!  9/6/06
Again hello,
<It's "Anemone" John...>
After learning my lesson on not researching my anemone I have found a couple of pitfalls.  The good news is I have a little bit of a budget for better lighting but not quite metal halide.  The other piece of good news is the anemone is not here with me and is being quarantined by a friend who actually knows how to care for it.  (Smacked me for ever buying it while only having fluorescent tubes.  I deserved it.)  However even he does not have an answer to my question.  Both he and I searched for a long time and he told me to just ask you guys again.  I have a standard 29 gallon tank.  I am wondering how many watts per gallon is required for a thriving anemone and is it possible with compact fluorescents?
<Is posted>
I found a 130 watt system I really like and can afford.  Is this going to be good or am I wasting my time?  Thanks for the help in advance.  I am feeling more confident about this hobby the more I read on your site.  A true godsend for me.  Without you I would have dropped out by now.  You're awesome!
John
<Keep reading: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemonelightngfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Don't write, read. Bob Fenner>

Re:  Compatibility...Fin Nipping...Now Anemone Health/Feeding  6/25/06 -
Dear James (Salty Dog)
<Rachel>
I forwarded some pics of my anemone did you receive it?
<Did not.>
Anyway my anemone is now in my 29G QT for two weeks. When I bought it, it was dark pink but it slowly became completely white. I feed my anemone with bits of algae
<Not necessary to feed algae.>
and marine food. Actually is there a specific way to feed an anemone?
<Yes, read here, and related articles/FAQ’s above title bar.>
I rely on my clown to do the job.
<Does not always work.>
The anemone expands in the morning and contracts in the afternoon – evening as usual but do you think it’ll die?
<Few anemones rarely have their first birthday party in captive systems.  Large tanks, pristine water quality, and good lighting are major requirements.  Do read the above link/articles/FAQ’s.>
Let me know you opinion % advice. Thanks, best regards,
<You’re welcome. Rachel, in future queries, do not continue the string with different subjects, send a new query with a different subject line.  That is, do not
reply with the original query if the subject is going to change.  Makes it hard for us to sort/file. James (Salty Dog)>
Rachel  

New H. crispa - some questions... Mis-ID'ed, kept actinarian, mis-mixed, crowded small marine system  - 05/19/2006
Hi Crew from beautiful North Carolina!
<Howdy back from some of us out in HI>
I have a 30 gal. cube which is several months old and is to be primarily dedicated to anemone/clownfish.
<Dangerously small... unstable>
  The lone exception fishwise, is a lawnmower blenny.
<Borderline small for a Salarias, Atrosalarias as well...>
I also have a sandsifting star, a tiger tail cuke,
<Way too small for this species....>
a serpent star, and various snails.  The clowns are a mated pair of Pink Skunks.  They are totally in love with the anemone and wallow around in it constantly.
I have 150W 14K HQI with 2X24w T5 actinics.  I realize this may be a little too blue for a Sebae and I plan on replacing the HQI bulb with a 10K in the near future.  I have a 10 gal. sump which is putting way too many microbubbles in the tank (have to build a better bubble trap), a Tunze Nano skimmer, and an Eheim 1260 as a return pump.  Based on RC's head loss calculator I am moving about 450 gph - just about 15X.
<Watch that intake, those intakes!>
pH is 8.3, temp is 79-81, ammonia=0, nitrite = 0.1,  nitrate = (yikes, how did that happen?),
<What?>
calcium =500, alk = 6 meq/L.
Now for my question - my anemone hasn't attached to anything yet.
<Bad...>
  Its body is tannish with an orangey bottom on its foot.
<...? This is a crispa/Sebae?>
The tentacles are light green (no purple tips that I can see).
<It's not... see WWM re the more commonly employed...>
I haven't seen the mouth since I first put it in the tank and at that time it was tightly closed.  It was not attached in the shipping bag
<Don't>
and has been nicely expanded but unattached since going into the tank.  Its laying on its side and is expanded out over the sand.  It hasn't moved very much from where I originally put it.  It is sticky - in fact, my fingers are a little itchy from touching the tentacles to make sure it is still sticky.
<Make sure and wash your hands thoroughly before and after...>
Should I just wait patiently or should I try to make some changes other than a WC to fix the nitrite issue?  He really is a beauty and I want to make sure he gets the best possible care.
Thanks - Laurie
<Much to speculate re here. Please read re all these animals care... Systems, Compatibility... especially the Anemone... See here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm
Scroll down... Bob Fenner...>

E. quadricolor Article  - 05/17/2006
Thank you for your reply.
  I can't seem to find the read regarding "BTA Systems" that you referred  to.  I have searched your site and must be missing it...
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm.>  
  Would you mind providing me with a link?
<Look above...>
  Thank you very much,
  Christopher
<Adam J.>

Anemone Lighting ... sys.    4/25/06
Hi I saw a bubble tip anemone at the pet store today and I was wondering if my tank is adequate to house one. My tank specs are as follows, it's a 45 gallon bow front tank lighting is 1 65 watt 10000k bulb and 1 65 watt antic
<Is it acting up?>
bulb, filtration is built in its basically a small power filter and a Fluval canister filter and about 30 pounds of live rock. Water Chemistry is all perfect expect for nitrates which are 20 ppm, and that's about it  
Thanks In Advance
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm
Scroll down to the tray concerning Anemones... Systems, BTAs...
Read. Bob Fenner>

Heteractis Crispa/Reproduction  - 4/11/2006
Hello,  <Hello Dan>
I have been searching quite a bit and cannot find anything on the reproduction of Heteractis crispa on your site or others. I was told that this can only happen sexually, but there is a picture on your site where there is one splitting. If this is possible, <It is.> how would I get mine to do that? <Provide high water quality and intense lighting with weekly feedings.  Read here also.  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm> Also mine eats anything I give it, but I have stuck mostly with prime reef cubes... What will happen if I overfeed it, and how much can I safely feed it?  <Once weekly is plenty as they do produce much of their own food by way of photosynthesis.  Feeding to much just results in the animal regurgitating, so to speak, and creating waste in the system.> Last, do you know where I can find more in depth info about this anemone?  <Do Google my friend, I'm sure you will find what you are looking for.  James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks, <You're welcome.>
Dan

Anemones/lighting requirements  - 02/16/2006
Hi, I have a 200-gallon saltwater tank with VHO lighting. They are (4) 48" tubes that I think are 440
watts. We were told they totaled 600 watts but I don't think so. Anyway, we would like to try an anemone in
this tank and I want to make sure the lighting would be sufficient or will we need to upgrade? <With that deep of tank a definite upgrade.>
The tank is 5.5 feet long, 24 inches tall 28 inches deep. We have a 4 -5" DSB. Ammonia 0, nitrite 0,
nitrate 25ppm, Ph 8.3, salinity 1.025, temp 76. In the tank is 80lbs live rock, 100lbs. to be live rock, a
blue throat trigger, niger trigger, Tennent tang, flagfin angel, flame angel, 2 clowns, 2 cleaner
shrimps, 4 peppermint shrimps, several crabs & snails, some serpent & sand sifting stars. Our clowns are very
aggressive hosters. Our previous anemones could not stand up to it. They were on the smaller side though
about 2".  We have been looking at an 8" Ritteri anemone and curious if that would be a good choice.
How many anemones could we have in our 200-gallon tank? Can we mix types? We really like the bubble tips
and the long tentacles. Can we keep both types and mix with the Ritteri (which looks like a LTA to me)? <Jeri, google our Wet Web Media site, keyword "anemones" and read information there first, then if you have a question, do ask.>
Thanks, <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Jeri

Anemone, WWM Searching for info.  - 2/4/2006
I am sorry to take your time. I have tried to find the answers to my questions but have not done very well.
<I've gots to write up a "pop up" that gives instructions, examples of how to use the Google Search tool on WWM... the stats server shows its use to be less than 100 sessions any given day... out of tens of thousands of visitors...>
I have inherited a salt water system and am trying to take a crash course on keeping it as it is to beautiful to discard. It seems to be doing well. The system has three anemones
<... not likely for long>
about three inches apiece. They are all right together and during the day look like one but at night they shrink and become separate.
<Not unusual behavior.>
From my reading I would assume they are carpet anemones as they are flat, kind of brownish with short (half inch) tentacles that are green. Two of the three are splitting. Is this normal?
<Umm, not likely... due to stress>
Is there something I should be doing other than feeding them and will they all get along being that close together?
Again, sorry to take your time. Thank You     Bob
<... no need to apologize... see WWM re Anemone Behavior... Here on Google: http://www.google.com/custom?q=anemone+behavior&sitesearch=wetwebmedia.com
You need to find what this species is here... Can be searched... Anemone Identification...
Bob Fenner>

Continuing saga of yet another pink tipped anemone on its way out  - 2/4/2006
Afternoon Crew,
<Howdy>
My pink tip has fallen off of the rock it is usually perched on, and is laying on his side with his tentacles pulled in. Should I try and scoop the
anemone up and put it back on the rock or wait to see if the anemone gets back up.
<Leave be... as posted on... WWM>
Was also wondering I have a tomato clown that has hosted the anemone they have been together about 2 months now and was wondering could
the tomato have driven the anemone to this suicide leap from the rocks?
<Doubtful>
Also I see no visible cuts on the anemone so I am not sure if it was hurt in the fall.
Thank you very much for all of your help
Homerj
<... read... on WWM... re. Bob Fenner>

Anemone Help   2/2/06
Hi Bob, <Hi Michele, James here today.>
My name is Michele Laurita. I was wondering if you could possibly help me. I have a very small reef tank 25 gallons. I have in it a yellow
tang, clown wrasse, a tomato clown, <Problems coming up, tank much too small for these fish.> several small hermit  cleaner crabs,
2 banded shrimp, and many other corals and live rock. The tank has been established for over 1 year. It seems every anemone I purchase dies due
to the same cause.  It appears that they get I guess for lack of a better term "ulcers" open wounds that appear white
fleshy openings on the stalk and interior of the anemone. Why is this occurring? I have already lost 1 anemone and I really love the one I
have now yet it has these symptoms as well. Can you guild me to what I may be doing wrong. I certainty would appreciate any guidance you could
provide. I read your web site and feel as though you would be able to help , Thank you Michele. <Michele, first off, anemones are not easy to keep to begin with.  A large tank, pristine water quality, good water movement and intense lighting are all required to keep them alive for any length of time.  The fish you have in your tank are creating poor water quality in the amount of waste they produce.  The other problem is that water parameters in a small tank can shift too fast, another negative for keeping anemones.  You will just be wasting your money buying anemones until you can provide the requirements/needs for them.
James (Salty Dog)>   

Re: green tip anemone lighting, beh.   2/2/06
If you do not mind I have another question which a lot of reading has not found an answer to.  My Bubble tip looks healthy (whatever that means), it's tentacles are large and bubbled, but not long.  My True Percula Clown is hosting well.  My questions are;
  - The anemone shrinks every 48 hours into a ball, then come back, is this normal?
<Not atypical>
- When I have attempted to feed it, it does not eat, how long should it take to eat (I've tried Mysis and cut up shrimp).  Usually the food falls out because the anemone is not grabbing the food.
<... this and related material is posted on WWM... Please see the site re this species, all captive anemone care>
  - The clown will also push the food out, I thought the clown was supposed to be helpful?   
  Thanks a million.
<Bob Fenner>

Clown Fish... actually ignored BTA  11/20/05
Hi
I have a tank which has one tank bred ocellaris and a BTA.  I have had them both in my tank for several months now
and unfortunately the BTA is not doing so well.  Whenever I try to feed the BTA (with frozen brine shrimp) several things happen:
<... don't live on frozen brine shrimp...>
1) The BTA just lets go of the food and it gets blown around the tank
2) The clown fish starts attacking my fingers as soon as I get anywhere near the anemone.
3) The clown fish will eat any food that goes anywhere near the anemone.
I have tried doing all sorts of tricks to distract the clown fish, but he is a quick learner and is very skeptical of any attempts of me to go near the anemone.  I am afraid that if the anemone dies then it will very traumatic for him?
<May be>
What course of action would you recommend I take? Can I remove the anemone and leave the clown fish? Or
would that be too stressful?
Your help is appreciated.
Regards
Simon
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm and on to BTA Systems, Feeding... Bob Fenner>

Finding a Reliable Source to Answer my Anemone Questions Regarding my Reef  11/7/05
Hi,
I have 90 gallon reef aquarium. Although I have had freshwater fish since I was 7, and have poured over many books, many of my questions about my reef tank remained unanswered.  I am fascinated with anemones, however, they do not seem to be a resident of the coral reef. Surely not a preferred neighbor. Is this correct?
<Symbiotic anemones do live in, on, near coral reefs... just not necessarily amongst other cnidarians, some in the mud...>
They are an opportunistic predator.
<Mmm, semi-so... most are to a degree photosynthetic... some are less than opportunistic, non-predators... many large species consume a great deal of detritus, fecal material...>
Some are more docile than others, but do they really belong in a reef tank?
<Some... specialized ones...>
One of the first residents in my tank was a Curly que anemone. He was happy until I started adding other corals such as button polyps.
<Bingo>
It was chemical warfare. The little guy wouldn't give up. Even though they were on opposite sides of the tank the curly que continued to spew mucus on his new neighbors. His efforts ended only when the stress overcame him.
<Well stated>
All that was left of my tank were my 2 fish, an ocellaris clownfish and my blue mandarin goby, one lonely hairy mushroom, and a dwarf blue hermit crab.
The curly que was beautiful, but I have since been to the Caribbean where they originate from. In the reefs there I saw no sign of the curly que or any anemone for that matter. Tons of fish, sea urchins the size of basket balls, and many other unique species... but no anemones.
<<Odd, have observed many, many anemone species in the areas of the Caribbean I have visited (admittedly limited to Puerto Rico, most often around the area of La Bahia Fosforescente - there are several phosphorescent bays/lagoons in Puerto Rico and surrounding islands - and other areas around La Parguera, Bahia Salinas, Borinquen beach) in very shallow waters, including the beautiful Stoichactis helianthus, as well as your Bartholomea annulata.  Marina>>
I just set up a 45 gallon aquarium specifically for the 3 new curly ques that I have purchased. To keep form having another war, but is there anything else I could have done?  <Run your spell, grammar checker>
<...? They may not "get along" with each other>
I don't think any amount of filtration systems could have keep the anemone from sensing it's surroundings. I have a Eheim profession 2, and a few other systems hooked up to my 90 gallon. I have the outer Orbit lighting with 560 watts for lighting. What would have caused the little guy to have such an upset over a few neighbors?
<... vital programmed potential... to exclude competitors for food, space, light...>
especially if they're across the tank. I hope you have some ideas. I don't want to repeat this mishap.
Thank you,
Rykna Olson
<Keep reading, seeking to understand... facts, their interrelationships, your relation to them. Bob Fenner> 

Anemone Keeping- Just The Facts, Maam! 10/28/05
Hi guys!
<Hey there! Scott F. here today!>
I've scoured your site for a while now, and I'm having trouble locating an answer to my question. I'll try to give you all the vital info, and I hope you can help! A friend recently sold me a saltwater setup, which included the 20 gallon Eclipse 2, which has been modified with an additional 10 gallon sump. The aquarium has 2 overflows into the sump, and the water flows through the tubes into a system of bio balls, then into the sump tank, where it is then pumped back into the aquarium.
<An interesting mod!>
He included the sand, a large chunk of live rock and a ('false') Percula Clown. I waited a couple of days and added a Royal Gramma.
<After you quarantined him, I hope...? just a reminder!>
Both fish seem to be happy, and eat well. I want to add an anemone for the Clown, but I keep getting conflicting answers from my local shops. I know I need to upgrade the lighting, but I can't find anything that tells me the best, and least expensive way, to do this. I did find a 'SmartPaq' system that promises to be ideal to fit the hood I have, and to provide 32 watts. Is this enough light? Should I consider something else?
<While I encourage experimentation on all sorts of fronts in the hobby, I'm not an advocate of "casual" anemone keeping. These animals are truly a limited resource, and removing them from the wild often resigns them to a limited lifespan in captivity, and the potential to severely deplete wild populations. Anemones do require a very high level of care- water quality, food, and lighting are essential. 
Many are simply doomed in captivity- the statistics are there.  It's extremely important to study the anemone you intend to keep and to design your system accordingly. Since anemones have potentially VERY long life spans, you need to have a system that is large enough to accommodate them for an indefinite period!  A 20 gallon is simply not sufficient for long-term maintenance of a typical "BTA" or "LTA" found in the hobby, when you consider the possible growth of the animal, and metabolic processes and other issues associated with its care. 
In addition, the anemone is absolutely NOT a requirement to keep Clownfish happy in captivity. In fact, many of them have been captive-bred for generations, and have never even seen an anemone! 
In the end, why not enjoy more adaptable animals in this small system? If you must have an anemone, why not try keeping (I gulp when I suggest this, but there is a certain warped logic to it!) an Aiptasia anemone in your sump? This can help satisfy your anemone "fix" and you can study this much-maligned, yet fascinating animal!>
Here is a link to the system I'm considering. http://www.marineandreef.com/shoppro/power_CUEclipse.htm 
<A nice system, but with the aforementioned caveat about anemones, I'd consider utilizing it for other animals.>
Can you help a newbie out? I really appreciate your help. I've used your search tool before, and it your site has been helpful to me in the past, when I set up my brackish 55 gallon with my spotted puffers. (I have one with a belly that turns black from time to time, but he seems to be fine, and eats like a little pig; he's now the biggest fish in the tank!)
<Glad to hear that we've been useful to you! I hope I don't come across as overly negative, but I feel that it's important to lay out the facts on anemone husbandry.>
Anyway, I'm sorry to take up so much space; I just tried to include all the information I thought you might need!
Thanks again!
Penny
<You were quite helpful, Penny! Why not consider colorful zooanthids as an alternative to anemones? Keeping these animals may start a lifelong passion for you...Think about it! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.> 

Anemone and Lighting... read WWM 9/12/05
Hello am trying to get some info together for my forum so I can make a sticky on certain species and there lighting needs.  I was wondering if you could help me as some of the stuff I am trying to find is almost impossible to locate on the net.
This is the species list
Entacmaea quadricolor, Bulb, Bubble-Tip or Maroon Anemone, RBTA
Macrodactyla doreensis, Long Tentacle Anemone, Corkscrew Tentacle
Heteractis crispa, Purple Long Tentacle Anemone, Leathery Anemone
Heteractis malu, Sebae Anemone, Singapore Sebae, Hawaiian Sand Anemone
Heteractis aurora, Beaded Anemone, Aurora Anemone
Heteractis magnifica, Magnificent Anemone, Ritteri Anemone, Red Radianthus Anemone
Stichodactyla gigantea, Giant Carpet Anemone
S. haddoni, Haddon's Carpet, Saddle Carpet Anemone
S. mertensii, Merten's Carpet, Sri Lanka Carpet
And this is the info I need
watts per gallon, effective lighting and depth of tank, PAR value, photo periods,
Am going to add more to this but this is the stuff that is hardest to find anything about.  Can you Please help me??  Thanks a lot. <John, search "anemones" on the WWM site.  You should find the info you need there.  James (Salty Dog)>

Re: Anemones statement  9/5/05
I had a response earlier, where you said anemones were "not good".  I have live rock, crabs, tangs, in a 150G tank.  Why aren't they good?
<Please, don't write to us in HTML code... and do include previous correspondence... I do remember your email, and was the person who responded... Anemones are not easily kept, especially more than one species in a given system, and some of your animals were incompatible with them as I recall. Please read here:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
and the linked files above, particularly "Compatibility". Bob Fenner>

Re: New reef... still lack of searching WWM 7/30/05
Thank you for the quick response.  All of my bulbs are new so one se has 260 watts all together.  4 compact fluorescent at 10,000 K and 12000K (65 watt ea) and I have the other double fluorescent with one bulb ocean sun (32watt) 10,000K and one moon light bulb on the other side that is old.
My small bulb anemone and the two smaller unidentified anemone are still looking good. also the pulsing xenia and frogspawn are healthy.  They are at a far end and the bulb was nowhere near.  so I don't think they had any interaction
<... chemically... through the water...>
I am so sad. I came home last night and my beautiful anemone was laying sideways deflated and looking dead in the sand.  I gently placed it on a rock.  Every once in a while one of the tentacles springs to life.  Otherwise the mouth is gaping open and while stringy material is floating out.  
I wonder if one of the rocks tore at half of its belly.  One side looks ripped and the other looks like it is trying to close.
I read that to get them to reproduce some experts have cut them in two with a sharp razor.  I wonder if I should let it sit longer and slowly die or whether it is worth trying to cut it in two with the hopes that the healthier half will regenerate.
Do you have any advice.
thanks
Cathy
<... please... don't write... read... on WWM... re anemone health, husbandry. Bob Fenner>

Anemone Troubles 7/28/05
Hi guys
<Hey, Mike G with you this evening.>
I have taken command of my little brothers Jewel Rio 180 marine set up
whilst he travels for a year and although he gave me step by step
instructions I need your help please
<And I'm glad to give it.>
I have a white carpet anemone
<"White" and "Anemone" really don't belong in the same sentence. Bleaching comes immediately to mind.>
which he has had from day one (3 ½ years) I
have been looking after this tank for nearly three weeks now and she is
gorgeous and I hand feed her mussels which she enjoys.
<If it is, indeed, bleached, the mussels may very well be the only thing allowing her to continue living.>
Yesterday I carried out my first water change of approximately 20% after
finding that my readings were as follows PH - 7.8
<A bit low. Aim for 8.2, 8.4>
ammonia - 0.25ppm
<A bit high. Aim for no more than 0>
NO2 - 0.25ppm
<See above. Should be 0>
but the big one was NO3 – 160ppm which was off the scale.
<Very high, though you've got that figured out.>
I got told 20% 2 weekly is the norm is this correct (question 1)?
<Depends on the aquarist. Everyone does things differently, though 20% every two weeks sounds good to me.>
Although all fish and anemones appeared fine in the tank before the water
change.
<Alright.>
So I got my self some pre salted RO water from my local shop
<Same brand of salt as your brother used in his tank? Same salinity?>
set it up to an air stone for 24 hours and heated it up to the tank temperature I then begin
the change of 20% of the water which appeared to go well for my first time.
<Good to hear.>
After it was done I then took the readings again and to my shock nothing had
really changed the PH was still low 7.8 and my NO3 was still way over 160ppm
<If it was off the charts before, there's no telling how high it was. It could have been at 500, and you reduced it to 161, in which case you'd still get the same reading.>
How can I get these down (question 2)?
<Do what you've been doing. Water changes, lighter feedings...>
Secondly I bought some proper ph 8.2 and added just 2 scoops directly to my
180 litre tank to try and get the ph level up to what all sites tell me it
should be.
<"Proper pH" and other such pH buffers are, in my experience, nothing but problematic. When they "wear off," your water will go back to 7.8, and the jump up then back down will stress your inhabitants unnecessarily. Using Kalkwasser or other such additives commonly administered to reef aquaria can prove invaluable in situations such as these.>
After I had done this my carpet shriveled up into a tiny ball as
if to say no I was fine as I was, albeit now 2 hours after my heart stopped
beating thinking that I may have killed my cutest little new found friend
she appears again to be opening up very slightly.
<Anemones tend to do a water change within their column from time to time, and will deflate completely periodically or when under stress. Unless it stays like this for a prolonged period of time, I'd not worry myself if I were you.>
Is this normal during a water change that she will get the hump with me
(question 3)?
<See above.>
As if I loose her it’s the hose pipe and car exhaust fumes for me as I love
feeding her?
<I don't quite understand what you're saying here, though if it is white, I'd say feeding would be a good thing.>
My final question is I also bought another anemone
<With brother's consent?>
the other weekend which is a brown anemone with brown tentacles with green ends that appear to have
holes in them
<Hard to guess the species.>
as I could not resist her for my 2 clowns and on the say so of
my local aquatic shop. On getting her home we set her up and put her in the
corner of the tank, the next morning my dad screamed she is next to the
carpet
<When newly introduced, uncomfortable, or stressed, anemones will roam around the tank looking for a more suitable location.>
so I dived in and moved her and since then she will not really take
to anywhere and looks like she does not want to take refuge on the glass,
sand or rock and will not really show her mouth for feeding and looks like
her feet are damaged.
<They are quite strong. Perhaps you tore the foot when you moved it?>
So do you think she is in big trouble
<A tear in the foot is usually a problem.>
and how can I encourage her to settle
(question 4)?
<Provide it with a place it likes, and it'll take to it.>
I thank you for your time and look forward to your answers at this difficult
time
<Not a problem. Good luck with your new anemone!>
Gary from London
<Mike G>

Bubble tip anemone...(I think)
I am really new at this salt water tank stuff. I had mega success with my freshwater. Well I have an anemone that is orangy pink on the bottom and white tentacles with purple tips. I know from what I read that that means it is bleached and they don't usually survive long if they are bleached... bummer. 
My problem is: I just got it yesterday and it hasn't even been 24 hours yet. I fed it a mixture of brine shrimp (which I also read isn't very good) and the vitamin stuff the pet store gave me. I put it in a syringe and squirted it to him. He caught it and ate it and then he hadn't even finished it all and started slumping over and shriveling up. Last night he completely covered his tentacles with his orangy body and it looked like I had an orange blob at the bottom of the tank. 
I turned on the lights this morning and he opened up but still didn't inflate. It has this gross looking stuff coming out of it's mouth. It looks like what I would call fat cells in a human...kinda yellowish and blobby. It was floating upside down just now and I turned it over. It is still upright but it looks horrible! What in the world is going on with it? I don't want it to die. Thanks for any help you can give me.
Nicole
<Umm, uhh... try reading re anemones, their care, health... oh, and identification, systems... on WWM. You need it. Bob Fenner> 

Anemone question
Hi. I love this web site. I have spent seems like hundreds of hours learning here.
<I've spent thousands myself!>
Anyway I have a 90 gallon, about 50 lbs. live rock so far, Aquac remora pro skimmer, 2229 Eheim wet/dry canister filter, Eheim liberty 200 pump filter for added carbon filtration, 2 maxi-jet 900's for water circulation, they are positioned at opposite ends -caddy cornered and facing each other. I have crushed coral substrate. my ammonia is 0, nitrite is 0, nitrate is about 20, ph is 8.3. I have 48" compact fluor. lighting. 2 55 watt actinic and 2 55 watt 10,000k daylight. I have a LTA I've had about 2 months. It has been on a certain piece of live rock since I got it and has never moved. which surprised me.
<Mmm, they rarely move in the wild>
I had covered all my intakes with foam covers before I bought it because I heard they are wanderers. Today I noticed a grayish wart type growth on the stem. Within 2 hours there were more. I also noticed a string of slime coming off his trunk/ stem. For the last day or two I noticed the cleaner shrimp getting on and off the anemone throughout the day and after lights are out. The only fish in the tank are 2 small percula clowns {who have never paid the anemone any attention}, a small coral beauty, and a 4 inch hippo tang. I'm sending a picture so hopefully you can tell me what I need to do. This anemone has always eaten good and been full and healthy looking. Thanks,             Barb
<If it were mine, I would switch out at least one, likely both of the actinics for "white" lamps... You don't mention what sorts of food, how often it's proffered... or your alkalinity, calcium, magnesium concentrations... these aspects of water quality are important for anemones as with stony and soft corals. Bob Fenner>

Anemone eating dead fish
Hi there, I find your site very informative. But I have a question. I have a 360L SW tank which has been going quite well. There is a good amount of live rock and a few polyp sponges I have a rabbit fish, 2 clown fish, 2 damsels, a blue starfish and up until recently a nice sized butterflyfish. I came home from work today to find the butterfly looking injured and stressed out. He was looking in a bad way and eventually died. My Anemone has now a firm hold of the fish and I am unsure whether to try to pry it from the anemone or to leave the fish in there for the anemone to eat.. I am worried about nitrate spikes and also killing the anemone either by it eating the fish... or by hurting it whilst trying to remove the fish. Any advice would be great. 
<I would remove the fish to be on the safe side. The anemone probably couldn't consume the fish anyway. James (Salty Dog)>

My anemone hates me. 4-5-05
Hi WWM crew.
<How goes it? It's 2 am and I'm listening to Information Society and answering questions...I bet this song was made before I was born o.O>
I have recently bought a rose bulb tip anemone about one and a half weeks ago. When it started in my 55 gallon tank it was doing fantastic and it was completely expanded. A couple days after I introduced my BTA to my tank it has started to shrivel up and to this day is still shriveled up.
I'm afraid that its dying and I'm not sure why. My nitrates are at 0 and so are my nitrites, also my tank is consistently at 75 degrees and at 8.2 ph. My KH is somewhat low; could this affect its health?
<If your pH is fine your KH isn't low enough to affect an anemone>
I have two 96 W fluorescent strip light bulbs; is this enough wattage?
<I think you mean intensity\wavelengths more than wattage...and depends. If the anemone was near the bulbs I would imagine it would be fine for a BTA>
A local marine store that I trust recommended to me that this was a good wattage to keep an anemone.
<Only for a BTA...>
Now my anemone is starting to crawl on the sides of my tank towards the light. Does this mean it needs more light.
<I would imagine so :) How close is it to the bulbs? If it's within ~8" you should upgrade your lighting>
I was thinking about arranging my live rock so that a certain piece of rock would be closer to the light and my anemone could attach itself to the rock.
<A good idea in theory, but the anemone will what it wants>
If I want to move my anemone to a different rock so it could get more light should I use a credit card to gently peel it off the sides of the glass?
<I would leave it alone, it will find a spot it prefers on it's own...seeing as it hasn't settled down in nearly two weeks, I would imagine you don't have enough light>
I have done two water changes in the past week to try and get it back to health again but this seemed to do nothing. It also seems to be expanded more during the late evening and less in the morning and afternoon. It still eats and it color seems to be fine. I feed it brine shrimp; is that good enough of a food source, and when I feed it the tips of the tentacles attach to my fingers and take the food but I don't feel a sting; is this bad?
<The tentacles should be 'sticky', this is good. However, feeding it brine shrimp is bad! Adult brine shrimp contain very little nutrients - to quote Anthony Calfo they're "shrimp shaped water"! Feed minced Mysis\cocktail shrimp, fish, and 'shellfish'. Only feed it very small pieces (1\4")>
I do have a moderate to strong current in my tank and I also have a pair of true percula clownfish that love my anemone ( one of my clownfish kind of jitters like its having a seizure but it only does this every so often, it still eats, is this bad?).
<I'm sure the clownfish are having a field day, but if I were you I would attempt to separate them until the anemone is looking better - they are an unnecessary stress>
I really love my anemone and would love for it to thrive especially since my dad paid so much for it. Any information would help. Thanks.
<No problem>
Cameron
<M. Maddox>

Anemone hates me & I Have These Peculiar Clowns.. 4-5-05
Just purchased a green bubble anemone (4th April) this morning it came out beautifully but when my lights went out it closed up ( very small) and retreated under my pump.
<Being motile, they will move as they will...it hasn't had much time to acclimate so far>
Is this normal?
<They're motile for a reason>
I was under the impression that it stayed open all the time as it houses clown fish.
<Please take the time to educate yourself BEFORE purchasing animals, please. See our archives for more info>
my 2 peculiar clowns have so far ignored it and also my skunk has avoided it even though it has been placed in his favourite area of the tank.
<It is not their natural host...and it is a good thing they are not hosting in it yet, they would provide unnecessary stress. Also, two species of clowns in the same tank will lead to the death of one of them>
When it closed it released some whitish stuff also. I did feed it a cockle yesterday could this have something to do with it...if it closes up how do the clowns live in it?
<It won't stay closed permanently, just temporarily when stressed or expelling waste. If you fed it a large piece, it's probably expelling it - anemones need minced foods, 1\4" size or smaller>
I have had my tank for 6 months it is well established everything thrives except pulsing coral. Could you give me some tips on keeping this because this is my favourite coral?
<Anemones (motile) inverts from completely different habitats than most corals) should never be kept with (sessile) corals. Completely unnatural. As for your 'pulsing coral' I assume it's some species of Xenia. They like a pH of 8.3+, and detest low pH>
I have 260 litre tank (vision 260) 13 fish, various hermit crab and cleaner shrimp, believe to have correct lighting.
<No ESP here! Need lighting info if you want a more complete answer.>
Please if you could help me in any way it would be much appreciated
<No problem. BTW, please capitalize your I's and the first letter of each sentence when mailing us as these responses are archived. M. Maddox> 

What is an Anemone (4/4/05)
Hello, 
<Steve Allen with you tonight.> 
My name is Megan and I'm in the 7th grade. For Science. I'm doing a project on sea anemones. I can't find what the meaning of sea anemones is, and I was wondering if you could help me. Thank you, Megan. 
<Hi Megan. Glad you found us in your search. It sounds like a fun project. Sea anemones are fascinating animals? Are you just writing a report and/or doing a poster? Is there a good public aquarium near your house? If so, you might be able to go see some real ones. I'm not quite sure I understand your question. Are you just looking for a definition of the term? Here's what Encarta says: "sea animal resembling flower: a solitary and often colorful sea animal with a squat cylindrical body that bears a ring of tentacles and is attached to rock or other nonliving material." An anemone is defined as: "flowering plant: a perennial flowering plant of the buttercup family. Many anemone species grow wild and popular varieties are deep red, purple, and pink with black centers." The word anemone seems to come from Latin and Greek. You should be able to get plenty of good info about sea anemones from ours and other internet sites, as well as Encarta or another encyclopedia. Good luck with your project!> <<Editor's note: Anemone were named so for their resemblance to the flower, given their name before it was known that they were animals and not plants.>>

Anemone troubles, induced
Hey Guys.
<John>
Just wondering if is possible to put a Long Tentacle Anemone in the same (30gal) tank as a Condylactis anemone?
<Not a good idea>
also, I was wondering why my LTA appears buried in the sand all day and then when the light go's out, he curls up and comes completely out so that you can see his orange base (foot?) and doesn't bury in the sand again until the light go's back on in the morning?
<Trouble... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm
scroll down to the index on Anemones... READ>
Thanks!  
(how do I see a response to this email?)
J.F.
<We respond directly to all, as well as post on WWM. Bob Fenner>

Ritteri Anemone Not eating
Hello Again,
I purchased a Ritteri Anemone 2 weeks ago, I have been trying to feed it silversides, Krill Mysis, and other food. It will not eat for some reason.
<Mmm, something important to impart to you re: other animal groups and subjectivity of reality... You are very likely familiar mainly with other warm-blooded animals... e.g. birds, dogs, cats... Anemones are different in a fundamental aspect... in their rate of reactions, acclimation to new settings... Your addition is just starting to settle in... I might've used the comparison between your referent to time going by, with that of a Galapagos tortoise and a hummingbird...>
There are a pair of clowns that made it their home.
<Oh, and these are likely feeding it... foods, scraps, their solid and liquid wastes... anemones actually need very little offered "food">
It's in a 29 gal tank, 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 30 nitrate...
<This is a very dangerously small volume of water... the changes that take place in little bits of water/aquariums, the changes that anemones and other cnidarians effect in their immediate environments (greatly diluted by larger systems, the seas) can create a deadly, unstable, toxic situation... in short order. I would NOT keep this animal in less than a hundred gallons of water.>
Water changed every week. I add all trace elements, 130watts PC lights. I spoke to the LFS they stated they do not know why it will not eat. Another strange thing is, I had one before and it moved all the way to the top of the tank, But then I only had about 80 watts lighting. The mouth is tight and good color, the toe has no signs of rips, tears or any damages. It looks healthy and tentacles are all out.  Do you have any Ideas?  Thanks.  Kim
<Lots... sorry for Anthony to see the Steelers go down in flames... but re your anemone, you have a bit of studying and soul-searching to do... its husbandry is too difficult in the present circumstances... You would do well to read over our archived materials, starting here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm scroll down to "Anemones, Actinaria"... and read my friend. Bob Fenner> 

Anemone <toxin> collection  9/12/05
Dear Bob.
Wonderful site.  If possible, I have a question.  Do you know of any supplier of marine-oriented venoms, i.e. Conus or anemones?
Many thanks,
Best
Oren Bogin.
<Mmm, no... but am sure there are folks at the research level who might well know if such is available... you might try Daphne Fautin at the U. of Kentucky... Marty Beals and Paul Kanner re the Conus... thru Tideline in Los Angeles. Bob Fenner>