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FAQs about Canopies, Tops and Housings for Lighting for Marine
Systems: Construction
Related Articles: Canopies, Covers &
Lighting Fixtures, Marine Light, &
Lighting, Moving Light Systems,
Marine System Components,
Used Gear,
Related FAQs: Canopies 1,
Canopies 2,
& FAQs on Canopy/Cover: Rationale,
Design/Engineering,
Sealing,
Reflectors, Fans,
Wiring, Repairing,
& Marine System Lighting,
FAQs
2, FAQs 3,
Actinic
Lighting, Metal Halide Lighting,
Fluorescent
Lighting, Compact Fluorescent Lighting, Small System Lighting,
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Materials must be heat resistant... at least not be of material that will ever
reach flashpoint... Must be chemically inert or sealed to make them so... Must
be good looking! |
Re: tank tops, Lighting Up His Life...
Hey fellow fish-keepers:
<Hey! Scott F. Here>
If I may, a follow-up to my homemade top questions:
I only wish to use some form of fluorescent for my 55gal, up to VHO, if
necessary. In this case, can I use Plexiglas?
<Acrylic/Plexiglas should work okay>
I lean this way so I can do it myself. How much will it cut down my light? The thinner the better?
<How much/how thick really depends on the type/grade of acrylic you will use. I'd recommend talking to your local hardware store about the different grades of acrylic and how much light (or what spectra) they'll block out>
I read so many opinions an watts per gallon. Can you give me (or point me to) a reliable rule of thumb (or range-of-thumb) for FOWLR, then moving up to hearty inverts, and MAYBE (way in the future), the easier corals (if there are any)?
<Really, no hard-and-fast rule for FOWLR-although if you are interested in deep-water species, you probably won't want as much light/intensity. If your intent is to eventually move up towards keeping corals, and you like
fluorescents, I'd go with the VHO in a configuration that lets you put several bulbs in the hood, preferably of higher wattage. this way you have flexibility for the future. Oh- and pick up a copy of Anthony Calfo's excellent "Book of Coral Propagation" for excellent ideas on coral husbandry, lighting, etc.>
I do not want anything that you can't sneeze at the tank without them dying, and I am very flexible with fish choices.
<That's good, because you can plan your population with an eye towards the future, avoiding outright coral-munchers, like large angelfish or triggers, and maybe look at reef-compatible fish that are both
attractive and hearty. Then, you can add a few hardy soft corals down the line>
Also, can I use a single bulb in multi-bulb fixtures until I need the extra light to cover for the future?
<Probably, yes-but do consult the manufacturer of your light fixture, as there are considerations, such as electrical safety and wear and tear on the bulbs>
Thanks, Rich
Re: acrylic adhesives used in proximity to a stocked tank
Great site! by far the best/ most informative fishy site I've ever
encountered!
Onto my question:
I have a 180gal FOWLR tank stocked with a 80cm Fimbriated moray eel and a few
disposable (obviously) damsels.
The eel, "Corporal Clegg", has been my pet for about 8 years now and
am looking to make an improvement, but am concerned about the Corporal's
safety. Currently weighting down the covers of the tank is just a 4ft
piece of oak. As you can imagine, the lighting of the tank can be
greatly improve upon by securing the covers with a more translucent object..
this is my goal in life. I was thinking it would be nice if I could
glue some small "swing arm" type brackets made out of acrylic to the
top of the tank as the solution (small and translucent == good). Are
there any adhesives on the market that you would deem "safe" to be
used in such close proximity to the water and my fish? I am sure that
mounds of activated carbon and PolyFilters would be beneficial...
> I guess I should give you a little more info: tank is obviously
acrylic with wet/dry, protein skimmer, and denitrification chambers underneath
in the stand. About 120lbs of LR, and 50lbs livesand. Thanks for your
advice and suggestions. Mark
<Hi Mark, The solvent in these glues is very volatile and will evaporate
quickly, use a fan to exhaust the fumes from the room as they won't be good for
you either. If this is done, no worries! Craig>
Re: lights crammed together!!
Hi everyone, it's been some time since I've written,.......bet you missed
me!
<Welcome back Pam, Don with you today>
Anyway, I have been plenty busy with my tank, continually trying to give it the
best, which leads to my question/dilemma: I have a 75 gal reef tank. The problem
is the cover. You see, I have the original cover that holds one large strip
light. You know the type that opens in the front for feeding, then there's glass
in the middle portion separated by a strip of plastic. This is
where I have crammed a second light into the small spot to supply
adequate light. Still, I only have 300 watts total. What's out there
for covers that will 1.) let you feed without taking a light off, and 2.) will
allow enough room for lights??!! Do you understand me? <Yes> I would love
to someday install an over the tank (suspended) metal halide model, but at this
point the cost is too much for me. Any suggestions for a simple, clean design
that works???
<Hmmm. I build custom covers for my tanks so the best I could suggest is to
try the online sponsors listed on the WetWebMedia.com FAQ page here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/daily_faqs.htm.
BTW what are your plans for this tank? 300W on a 75 is not that bad. Don>
Thank you all!
Pam
Custom Lighting?
I have a glass 48 inch flatback hex tank. I've used it for freshwater fishes
and would like to now create a reef system. The canopy has a sleeve for a single
tube lighting fixture to sit in. It simply isn't wide enough for anything
larger, which I know I will need for the new system. Do you know of anyone that
makes a more suitable canopy for this size tank? Or do you have an idea of how I
could improvise? Thanks for your help. Russell
<Well, Russell, I'm not sure of your tank's exact width, but you have a few
options...Lots of manufacturers make canopies and retrofits for different sized
systems. You also can consider the use of pendant systems...I'd do a little web
searching for lighting systems and components. A good place to check out is
hellolights.com, which offers a variety of lighting components, bulbs, etc., to
meet a wide variety of tank configurations. Have fun researching and developing
a system to meet the needs of your tank! Regards, Scott F>
Tank Cover and Lighting
Hello WetWebMedia Crew,
Your help and advice have been invaluable!
<Thank you for the kind words!>
I just wanted to get your opinion on my tank cover and
lighting. I have a 6' acrylic 125 gallon, with a
total of 576 watts PC lighting above the tank in a
canopy. I have addressed the issue of moisture
build-up in the canopy by 1) adding 2 CSL fans and 2)
totally covering the 2 access holes on top of the tank
with acrylic sheets. Is there anything wrong with
totally covering the tank on top? Does the tank need
some ventilation on top? Will this be enough to
prevent any electrical problems for the lighting (i.e.
the lighting is not moisture-proofed)? (FYI, via a
built-in overflow, the water flows down to a sump and
protein skimmer below the tank).
<The sump will help with gas exchange, so that should not be
an issue. The totally covered top may be a problem if heat builds
up. A small fan blowing across the sump will help cool the water.
Normally, the canopy has an acrylic, or better yet, glass lens
to help with moisture, splashes, and to contain heat in the canopy
so it can be exhausted. You will have to monitor your setup
to see how much heat becomes a problem.>
Your comments are greatly appreciated,
<No problem Ed, hope this helps, Don>
Ed
- Finding a Glass Canopy -
Dear Sirs,
I have been looking for a glass canopy for my 26.5 inch long fish
tank. This is proving to be quite a difficult task. Do you
have any information that could help me? I am getting desperate, and
annoyed with my odd shaped tank. <Hmm... do you need an entire canopy or just
a glass top - if just the top, I'd head to a glass shop and get them to cut be a
couple of pieces of tempered glass. You should be able to find the plastic bits
[hinge, handles, and back cover] without difficulty although you'll probably
need to cut them to length.>
Thank you.
Joseph
<Cheers, J -- >
DIY Hood Questions
Hi Guys,
Just built a 6' hanging style hood for my 125
gal.. Has 3 metal halides and 2 VHO's. Was wondering if a piece of 1/4"
laminated safety glass is a sufficient UV safe splash shield. My glass man told
me this would filter 99% of Uv rays, thus saving my eyes etc. from these harmful
rays. Also have an ice cap fan with built in thermostat on one end, and planned
on having an open grill on the opposite end. Should the fan blow fresh
outside air across the lights, or pull (exhaust) the hot air out.?
<Awesome! Building your own hood is a great way to save money- congrats. This
glass sounds appropriate.
As for the fan, it should pull fresh air in. The side without the fan
should act as the exhaust. Good luck! Ryan>
Thank
You in Advance, Louie
Egg Crate- The Good And Bad
Good day,
<Hi there- Scott F. with you today!>
Im changing my current lighting right now to metal halide and I would like to
use an eggcrate top for heating/gas exchange and better lighting. I've been told
that eggcrate can cast shadows and diffuse light and that eggcrate can be fairly
opaque to point sources. Can someone please give me the complete explanation of
the pros and cons of eggcrate with lighting? Thanks!
Travis
<Well, Travis, here are a few. Some of the "pros" are that you can
use eggcrate to help newer corals acclimate to your system's lighting, and
create shade effects for corals that prefer different types of light levels.
Some of the "cons" are that this material will unduly shade the corals
that reside beneath it, in some cases. Also, the eggcrate can become brittle and
crack, or even melt over time. There are many, many other pros and cons to the
use of egg crate; of course I only touched on just a few that came to mind...In
the end, you might be well-served by chatting about this topic with a few fellow
hobbyists...You'll probably hear many different opinions and ideas on the topic
as you talk to different people. In the end, you'll probably have to pick up
some egg crate (it's cheap, fortunately!) and experiment. If it doesn't suit
your needs, you can always try something else with it- like build a plenum! Good
luck! Regards, Scott F>
Use of aluminium reflectors?
HI Crew,
<Hello Bob>
On my Juwel tank, the fitted lights come with optional reflectors (which appear
to be polished aluminium).
<Yes... very nice units>
As the lights are set very low in the hood, and directly above the water
surface, I am concerned about the condensate getting back into the tank and
giving a toxicity problem?
<Me too>
I called the supplier, and they told me that the reflectors would be "fine
for marine use", but might "tarnish a bit from the salt" Hmmm?
<He is steadfastly wrong here>
I'd like to improve the lighting efficiency, but I'd rather add more light than
do anything silly.......it's just that they are soooooo easy to fit, and they
are also not too expensive....
Any comments?
<I would NOT use aluminum/aluminium in or around marine systems>
regards
Bob (UK) UK.. hence the "aluminium" for you US folks, I
know you call it Aluminum :--)
<A metal by any other colour. Bob Fenner in the colonies>
Tank top/lighting question 6/9/04
hello friends!
<howdy!>
just a simple one for ya':
<Okey-dokey>
I currently use the 1/4 inch (greenish tint) glass top that came with my tank to
set my 110w pc fixture on. I have access to quality acrylic/Lexan at my work and
could rout it to size. Would making a custom top out of this material (I would
most likely use 3/16 or 1/4 Lexan) allow more/less filtration of light to enter
the tank, or be better for it's inhabitants?
Hmmm... yes. There are two things at odds here: light admission in general, and
UV admission specifically. Glass or Lexan will have various admissions of these
two params. Many/most that allow a lot of light in still often reduce UV
severely (not good for corals). You need to see the mfg specs top decide on any
of these random products>
I want to maximize my lighting obviously, and don't think I'm willing to go
topless for fear of "Gumdrop" the clown jumping out.
thanks, I appreciate your time and willingness to help us all.
Erich
<always welcome my friend>
30g glass
15g sump, CAP 1800 return
4"sand -fine
40lbs live rock
cs90 overflow
urchin skimmer
JBJ Versailles 110w pc lighting
Millennium 2000 HOB filter -no media
1 Xenia (fingers pulse again.... hooray!)
4 hermits
5 small colonies of zoos
1 colony shrooms
1 small (for now) gold maroon clown
1 cabbage leather frag
1 Galaxea frag (lots o' room) ;)
1 medium meat coral
1 banded coral shrimp
2 Turbos
*will be adding more zoos and shrooms
<the Galaxea, corallimorphs and zoanthids are all quite aggressive and
noxious... enjoy them in this tank that specializes in them, and do resist any
more of the weaker/incompatible species (like Xenia here). Best of luck!
Anthony>
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