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FAQs on Stinging-Celled Animal
Feeding Related Articles: Cnidarians,
Water
Flow, How Much is Enough,
Related FAQs:
Anemone
Feeding, Coral Feeding 1,
Zoanthid Feeding,
Mushroom
Feeding, Soft
Coral Feeding, Cnidarians 1, Cnidarians
2, Cnidarian Identification,
Cnidarian Behavior,
Cnidarian Compatibility, Cnidarian Selection,
Cnidarian Systems,
Cnidarian Disease, Cnidarian Reproduction,
Acclimating
Symbiotic Reef Invertebrates to Captive Lighting,
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High Nitrates/Algae problems, & fdg. "corals"
2/29/08
Okay, I guess I should have gone to school to become a marine biologist
because the more I read about maintaining a reef tank, the more confused I get.
Anyway, here are some questions.
My system: 160 gal tank w/20 gal sump, no refugium yet, about 150 lbs live rock,
3-4 " DSB, various corals and fish, protein skimmer, UV sterilizer, chiller,
high end coral lighting with metal halides, filter currently inop and being sent
for repair.
<What sort of filter?>
I was paying someone to maintain tank but had to let him go. So I am now
learning. Water is testing great except for nitrates being 20-40 ppm. I read
from Bob Fenner that "...there are two common ways of expressing nitrate
concentration by various assay methods. Nitrates as ppm, and nitrogen as nitrate
in ppm. Due to the latter's consideration of the three oxygen atoms atomic
weight per molecule, measuring nitrate ion by itself results in 4.4 times as
much. Do check your test kit though almost all are nitrate ion types on the
market nowadays... ".
So, with that said, I checked my test kit, API, and it does read the ions.
So, what does that mean? When it tests out at 20-40 ppm, does that mean my
result is really a lot less than what I think it is?
<Mmm, no... really is this range>
All my fish and corals seem to be doing well. Since I was paying someone else
previously, I don't know if my nitrates are different than before.
I think that I may be adding to my nitrate problem when I clean my tank. I have
a lot of algae sitting on the top of the sand, so I have been cleaning the sand
and I am wondering if I am stirring it up too much and disturbing the
denitrification process.
<A possibility>
I have read about it on your site but get too confused. Too much detritus on top
of sand is a bad thing, but isn't disturbing the sand too much also a bad thing?
<Yes, can be>
I have a lot of detritus in places that I can't get into with the vacuum. I've
tried reaching it with a slim tube or stick to stir it up for vacuuming but not
sure if this is the best thing.
<Mmm, I'd hasten on to adding the refugium, increasing your circulation in the
main tank... perhaps some internal pumps... Look into the Koralia, Hydor
brands...>
Also, any advice on the algae bloom problem? It is only on the sand and was rust
color at one point, then pink, and now mostly dark and bright greens.
<See the above>
I am also totally confused on what to feed my corals (sea fans, zoas, Shrooms,
colt coral, torch coral, flowerpot coral, brain coral, sun coral).
My tank guy had me feeding only Marine Snow.
<Garbage... the emperor's new fish food... Of no nutritive value>
Everything was thriving fine, except the sun coral which I learned to feed
mysis. I've read and have had many folks tell me Marine Snow is only "fish poop"
<More like wall paste>
and that I should be feeding something else. Since I have 3 bottles of Marine
Snow stocked up, I have been mixing it with Kent's Phytoplex and some Liquid
Gold. I was feeding twice weekly and lately have only been able to feed once
weekly. If the Marine Snow is only "fish poop", could that be adding to my
nitrate problems?
<Yes, definitely>
Thank you for your time. Wouldn't know what to do without you guys.
<Do take a read re the "corals" you list on WWM. Their foods/feeding/nutrition
is gone over there. Bob Fenner>
DT's Phytoplankton and Purple Coralline
growth (revised)! 2/17/08
Hello everyone! Thanks to all for everything you do for us :) I have a quick
question. I'm sorry if it has been answered already, but I cannot seem to find
anything that relates to my specific question.
I started my tank 2 months ago. I have a 65 gallon with wet/dry filter, protein
skimmer, UV sterilizer, and total 288 watts of lighting. A combination of 1/2
blue actinic and 1/2 10000k daylight. 75 lbs of live rock. I also have (2) 300
gph circulation pumps along with my return pump for circulation. Fully cycled
with 0 readings on ammonia and nitrites. 5-10 ppm on nitrates.
My tank is currently housing:
(1) Dwarf Coral Beauty
(1) Six Line Wrasse
(1) Lawnmower Blenny
(3) Green Chromis
(1) Red algae eating starfish They told me a Red thoned Starfish
<Do you have a scientific name for this asteroid?>
(1) Green Serpent Starfish
<Mmm, Ophiarachna? Watch out with this predator>
(1) Skunk Cleaner Shrimp
about (10) zoanthid polyps
(1) green feather duster
(3) green mushroom polyps
(1) Rose Coral attached to a Turkey Wing Oyster? That what the LFS told me it
was . It is alive, I know that!
<Not uncommon attachments...>
I feed Spectrum granules in the a.m. and frozen cube mixes at night. I only
shave of about and 1/8 to 1/4 of the cube and thaw it it tank water. I hand feed
my Green Serpent in the evening with a few small pinches of scallops or shrimp.
I also purchased some DT's. My questions are, how much DT's should I feed to the
small amount of corals and Feather duster I have?
<Mmm, not really a source of nutrition here, for this life, but of value
nonetheless...>
I was told to draw up 1cc in a syringe and add 2cc of tank water to that and
target feed about every third day. Is that right?
<Okay>
Should I turn off all of my pumps, skimmer, and UV? Also, how much should I feed
my fish and others during the day? Is this too much food or not enough???
<What you list is fine. I would leave your gear on... more likely more trouble
that you'll forget to turn it back on... though timers can be a real asset here>
Oh one more quick question! I have a small amount of purple coralline on some of
my live rock. I want to have it spread. I was told not to use Purple Up because
it will raise my alkalinity and calcium too high. What can I do to encourage
more purple coralline??
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/corallinealg.htm
and the linked files above>
Thank you in advance for your help!!
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Feeding corals 1/6/2008
To the WWM Crew:
Do you have an opinion about TMC products?
<I do... have visited these folks, known them for decades... Their company is
the apex of value in our trade>
The ones I want specifically to know more about are the food products named
Gamma NutraPlus, Complete Feed for fish and inverts and Reef Feed just for
inverts. I use to feed the LPSs and SPSs with hydrated Cyclop-Eeze "powder" and
frozen Mysis shrimp. Do you think it would be a good idea adding another kind of
food like that of the TMC?
<I VERY much like the Gamma food line... IF your "corals" (this is a too-wide
descriptor used by home hobbyists for a disparate group of animals... not all
even Cnidarians!) actually eat such size, type foods, this will be of
nutritional value>
Thank you very much for your site and help
Best regards
Flávio
<Welcome! Bob Fenner>
Zooplankton vs. Phytoplankton, food, coral nutr.
– 07/18/07
Hi,
I've read on you very informative website that it is preferable to feed corals
zooplankton as opposed to phytoplankton like DT's brand.
<Well, that's because the corals we keep don't eat phytoplankton. However, if
you have a deep sand bed and/or refugium feeding phytoplankton like DT's will
likely increase your tank's ability to produce it's own zooplankton.>
I cannot find any zooplankton products for use in my aquarium. Can you possibly
point any out for me?
<Coral Frenzy is supposed to be pretty good. Cyclop-Eeze might also be considered
zooplankton. Liquid life's "coral plankton" has rotifers. Zooplankton is
basically just the portion of plankton that consists of tiny (microscopic or
nearly so) animals and larvae rather than eggs and algae. So, urchin eggs would
be plankton, but urchin larvae would be zooplankton. Copepods, rotifers, shrimp
larvae and small crustacean larvae, etc. these are things that could be
considered zooplankton. Newly hatched baby brine probably qualify as
zooplankton. Another easy way to get zooplankton in your tank is to have some
peppermint or other ornamental shrimp that regularly produce larvae in
aquariums. Of course, I do wonder if the fish don't eat up all these larvae
before the coral get a chance at them.>
Thank you so much!
<Hope this helps.
Best,
Sara M.>
Living Overseas And Searching For Good
“Non-Refrigerated” Coral Foods – 06/28/07
I have somewhat run into a problem with feeding the coral.
<<Oh? What genera/species?>>
I am currently living in S. Korea, and quality items are few and far between.
<<I see>>
This being my first SW set-up outside the US, I've had to order equipment from
the States.
<<Lucky we have the Internet these days, eh?…wish it had been around during “my”
overseas tours>>
I have been reading on your site continuously with no avail.
<<Okay>>
My question for you: Is there any dry coral food that is actually good?
<<There is…and I will elaborate shortly>>
All the reviews from everyone make dry invert/coral food a bad idea.
<<Opinions differ>>
Since I cannot get shipped "live" items, makes this even more difficult. So my
choices are finding a quality dry food, un-refrigerated liquid (which from what
I read is a bottle of crap),
<<For the most part, yes, I agree>>
or trying to find something on the Korean market (fingers crossed). Currently
all I have now is a few small feather dusters on the LR, and a medium size piece
of Alveopora (Branch) Coral (along with two small clowns). What suggestions for
food do you have, and what path should I take?
<<Well John, there are a few manufactured products I think can be useful/will
fit your criteria and I will go over these in a moment. But what you need here
is an in-line plankton-generating refugium. This would be your best and most
economic source of “coral food”…along with the other benefits such a system
provides (lots of info re to be found here and among the links in blue:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm). There are several refugium
methodologies you could employ, but I think a reverse-daylight vegetable
refugium with DSB would work just dandy here. As for dry/non-refrigerated
packaged products… I like and use Polyp Lab Reef-Roids. This is a “fine dry
powder” product that seems to illicit good feeding responses in my SPS dominated
reef system. You can find this product here (http://www.aquariumspecialty.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=783&osCsid=b5a1cb93cf978ad7d489575f88b0d8f1)…the
owner of the site (Scott) is a friend of mine, you can tell him I referred you
if you like. For corals AND fishes requiring larger food items, the saltwater
variety of Sweetwater Zooplankton is a good choice. This is a very good
vacuum-packed “wet” product that does not require refrigeration until opened. A
third item that will benefit both fishes and corals is freeze-dried Cyclop-Eeze.
The use of these products in unison should give you pretty good
“coverage”…especially if you employ the refugium as well. And if you should ever
find yourself with animals that need/require Phytoplankton, the ESV spray-dried
product would suit your circumstance>>
Thanks!
John
<<Ah, one last thought…I have found that placing a few “shrimp pellets” in some
tank water and waiting a few minutes to let them crumble/dissolve also provides
some nourishment/may fill another niche in the reef food chain. Good luck with
your search. Eric Russell>>
Coral Frenzy 3-13-07
Hello Bob,
<Ken>
We were wondering if you would be interested in trying out Coral Frenzy?
It is an all in one coral food. We list out everything that is in CF on the
label and on our website. We also stamp the date that it was manufactured right
on the jar, so you know how exactly when it was made.
<Have heard and read good things about your product... But, don't tell anyone...
I actually only have a couple of good-sized African Cichlid systems going
nowadays... Heeee!>
We know that nothing is more nutritional than live and then the next is
frozen. The problem is that the majority of people who keep reef tanks don't
have the time, desire or discipline to feed those two ways. That is where Coral
Frenzy comes in, nothing on the market currently has as many different
ingredients, and for some reason none of them care enough to tell you what is in
their products. Then to top it off, you don't know if that product was made
last week or last year.
<Yes>
We are constantly improving our product. We are always working with our
suppliers to improve their ways of processing in order to achieve higher
nutritional values.
We have wanted to contact you for some time now but we didn't know how you would
be.
<Heeee! About the same ole!>
Scott Groseclose from Aquarium Specialty told us that we should drop you a line.
<Hello to Scott!>
Have a great day and we hope to hear from you soon.
Thank you,
Ken Easter
www.coralfrenzy.com
<Thank you for your kind offer. Bob Fenner>
Coral growth, lack thereof... nutrient limited? 3/6/07
Hello all!
Thanks for your help with previous questions! Very helpful!
I am having trouble with coral growth in my tank.
15 gallon refuge with cheato,
<"Algae that goes "crunch"")
live sand and a little bit of live rock.
diy skimmer that works well. A few hermits and Nas. snails.
Main tank;
104 pounds of live rock,
2 to 3 inches live sand
hermits and various snails
closed loop system with four outputs (great idea! thanks!) about 12x tank
volume per hour.
two 12k 65 watt pcs, two actinic 65 watt pcs, and two 175 watt 20k metal
halide.
alk 11
P.H 8.4
calcium 480
nitrate .05
trite 0
am 0
mag 1400
s.g. 1.026 to 1.027
This is what my hydrometer reads. my temp is 79 to 82.
Is the salinity too high? Is that too high of a temp swing?
<Both are fine>
Inhabitants;
gold banded coral shrimp pair
emerald crab
Atlantic cucumber
<Mmm>
one green toadstool
one red open brain
one red/brown Sinularia
no fish
I have noticed very little growth in my coral.
<Do you feed them? Oh, I see this below>
They seem, otherwise, to be doing well. Full polyp extension and color. I feed
the open brain bits of shrimp or salmon every other day. It eats well! I do not
feed the leathers. I have a great population of amphi and copepods. Many tiny
white brittle stars and other L.R. hitch hikers. The Chaeto in the fuge is
multiplying like mad. I use store bought R.O. water. I am replacing 4 gallons a
day from evaporation.( drip method over a period of several hours, DAILY!!) I do
8 to 15 gallon water changes a month.
Should I feed the leathers something?
<Maybe... by offering a cultured mix of mono-cellular species of phytoplankton
you just might supply some missing chemical/s... e.g. the popular soluble
phosphate...>
Are my temp, s.g. swings daily causing a lack of growth?
<Nah>
Please help! Wanting to start another tank, but not until I fix this one!
Thanks in advance for your help!
Rob
<I'd try the "Phyto" route here first... Bob Fenner>
Coral feeding 1/24/07
Dear Crew,
<Hey Glen, JustinN with you today.>
Thanks for all of your help in the FAQs! The advice given has helped me
establish my first reef tank which appears to be well-established for about 8
months.
<Excellent, we always love to hear of the successes.>
Up until last month this had been a FOWLR tank with only a few fish & inverts.
<Ok>
Last month and this month I have slowly been adding corals to the tank and
things still appear to be going well, most thanks to you guys.
<I would disagree here, my friend. We simply present the facts, in a form that
its tangible and understandable to the layman. We provided the spark, you
ignited the fire.>
I am currently feeding my corals a mixture of the following frozen treats by a
turkey baster 2X/week: Baby brine shrimp, reef plankton (red Calanus), daphnia,
Spirulina enhanced adult brine shrimp, Cyclop-Eeze and mysis shrimp.
<Quite the Cnidarian treat!>
The corals are Goniopora (missed the advice on this one), Sarcophyton, Euphyllia
paradivisa, metallic green Rhodactis, small xenia frag, small green sea mat
zoanthid frag, small yellow polyp frag. My goal is to provide a mixture of
foods to these animals in order to provide maximum nutrition and simulate the
diversity of food sources available in the wild.
<And you are doing a mighty fine job of it, my friend.>
Can my feeding regimen be enhanced in any way?
<Perhaps the addition of a HUFA-enriched vitamin supplement such as Selcon.
Beyond that, all reads excellent here.>
I don't really target feed the xenia.
<Is not necessary, they are largely photosynthetic (and if I recall correctly,
no one has specifically identified a food consumption mechanism with them).>
Instead, I blow around the rocks and sand a bit with the baster to resuspend any
leftover food and hopefully get some bacterial plankton into the water column.
<Excellent here, also serves to stir up wastes in and around you rockwork,
directing them towards filtration devices.>
-Glen
<I think you've already got the right idea, Glen. Keep it up, my friend.
-JustinN>
Amino Acid Supplements For Coral 1/12/06
Hi Crew,
<Hello Mohamed, Mich with you today.>
I will like to know what is the benefits of using amino acid for corals and has
anyone from the crew done experiments with amino acid?
<The benefit is providing nutrients that are not easily synthesized from the
environment. Many extol the use of vitamin supplements such as Selcon, which
contains amino acids.
Eric Borneman mentions in his book Aquarium Corals on page 58 that
"Some of the products required by corals and zooxanthellae that are not supplied
by photosynthesis include vitamins and long chain fatty acids. These compounds
are supplied by diet only. Glycine is also a compound the many coral do not
easily synthesize, and it, along with some carbon, may be obtained in the wild
by living in proximity to the released photosynthetic products of certain macro
algae."
In a home aquarium this association may not be possible. Therefore addition of
amino acids via a vitamin supplement may be quite advantageous.
Thanks
Mohamed
Re: Amino Acids Supplements For Coral 1/17/06
Hi Mich,
Thanks for a speedy reply.
<Welcome, sorry this one isn't quite so speedy.>
On the same subject. What are the types of amino acid that is required by
corals?
<Hmm, varies with differ organisms, thus the multivitamin recommendation (and
also a high quality mixed diet).>
Is there a formula for amino acid similar to iodine which can be mixed?
<RMF says Aminoplex, a veterinary product, may be of benefit if slowly dripped
into the tank during daylight hours only.>
Thanks
<Welcome, hope that helps! -Mich>
Mohamed
Re: amino acid supplementation for Cnidarians - 1/18/07
Hi Mich,
<BobF now>
Thanks for the reply, its never to late.
Who is RMF and where can I read of what he/she says?
<Is an acronym for my name, Robert Milton Fenner, sorry for the confusion>
I found 2 type of Aminoplex, Aminoplex Light and Aminoplex Forte which 33 times
more concentrated with amino acids, sounds good.
<Yes... this is "the real thing">
What is the procedure of dosing?
<Mmm, unknown to me for this application>
Some info on the product, what do you think?
Aminoplex Forte
Composition
Dextrose, calcium chloride, potassium chloride, magnesium sulphate, sodium
acetate, L-histidine HCl, DL-methionine, DL-triptofane, L-cistein
HCl, L-threonine, DL-isoleucine, L-arginine, DL- phenylalanine,
DL-valine, L-lysine HCl, L-leucine, monosodium glu
Description
High concentration amino acids
Indications
Its amino acids concentration is 33 times higher than Aminoplex Light.
Treatment of severe conditions of convalescence, of weakened animals, or under
intense strain, stress, shock, chronic diseases, parasitosis, preparation for
competition, high production
Contra-indications
none
Side effects
none
Dosage
1 mL for each 5 kg of body weight, from 1 to 3 times per day.
Intravenous, intramuscular, subcutaneous or intraperitoneal routes.
Withdrawal times
none
Packing
Glass vial of 100 mL, glass vial of 250 mL, glass vial of 500 mL.
Thanks
Mohamed
<A bit of experimentation needed here... perhaps trying to calculate the weight
of your biota (sans abiotic skeletal mass)... and applying some smaller dosage
to the water itself... during a period of rapid metabolism... later morning,
early afternoon of light phases... Do be aware that the addition of simple sugar
(Dextrose... common ingredients in "Vital" products) may cause a slight algal
bloom for a while... Bob Fenner>
DSB’s/Coral Food – 01/10/07
Hello,
<<Hello Ronnie>>
I have heard recently that DSB's are not suggested in SPS reef tanks? Any
thoughts or advice?
<<Hmm... I have 1000 pounds of sugar-fine aragonite in a flourishing 375g SPS
reef tank, along with another 300 pounds in the in-line 55g refugium, that might
suggest otherwise. Perhaps it is thought the efficient denitrification process
deprives the corals of this important/required element. I have heard of
advanced hobbyists adding Potassium Nitrate to their SPS systems to boost
health/color/vigor. I myself prefer a heavy (within reason) fish load coupled
with generous feedings>>
I read Deep Sand Secrets and found a lot of great info on it.
<<A good/interesting read, agreed>>
I have always used one with good results. In my new 75 gallon SPS only tank, I
am researching different ways to set it up.
<<Excellent! I have kept myself, and have seen, many successful tanks using
differing methodologies. But I must say, my greatest success has come when
utilizing the DSB methodology>>
Also, any thoughts on the new food line called Reef Nutrition?
<<Ah, yes...am feeding the Arcti-Pods to my system now. My Anthiines seem to
like it fine, as well as the other small planktonic feeding fishes. Can’t
really say whether the corals are feeding on it, though it does appear to be
“small enough” for several of my Acropora species utilize>>
I have always used Cyclop-eeze and DT's oyster eggs and phytoplankton for
feeding my corals?
<<Good selections, but the phytoplankton is of little utility here as most all
SPS corals will be carnivores...though it is beneficial for feeding many of the
planktonic organisms/micro-crustaceans which “do” provide a rich food source for
your corals...and many of which are cultured/generated from/within a DSB>>
Thanks, you guys rock.
<<Thank you...thank you very much (in my best Elvis impersonation voice)>>
Ronnie
<<Regards, Eric Russell>>
Feeding cap for feeding TWA anemone et al. cnidarians - 4/24/2006
Afternoon Crew,
I was wondering about the storage of a feeding cap (2 liter bottle cut off at
top with a tube in it). I am planning on feeding my anemone (Haitian pink
tipped) and corals (candy cane and some zoanthids I had Mr. Fenner ID as a
possible Isaurus sp.) with this feeding cap. (I just found about this great
piece of equipment today, great concept love things that follow KISS) I was
concerned about the fact that cnidocysts tend to stay on things it comes in
contact with. Should I use a separate cap for each one and also concerns for
myself where should I store this so I do not get stung?
<... I would use separate ones per species/colony (and label for/as such)... can
be stored most anywhere... A good habit to use tongs, try to keep your hands,
arms out of the system... utilize arm-length gloves...>
Should I clean it well with hot water every time?
<Mmm, no... not likely necessary>
I would assume I don't want to use ammonia on something I am putting in my tank.
<Uhh, correct... if anything, just a quick freshwater rinse>
Thanks for all the help you guys and girls are the best,
Homerj
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Base Rock/Feeding Corals - 02/20/06
I have a question about using base rock to help stock an aquarium. I'm
planning on setting up a larger (125-200 gallons) reef system in the near
future. To offset some of the costs I would like to use base rock (probably
completely devoid of any life, dry) along with Fiji live rock. Is there a
rule/guideline as to what percentage should or ought to be live versus base? I
want to save money, but don't want to get too cheap and under stock
the aquarium with the bacteria and "seed" source the live rock provides. <I
would use base rock as the lower layer of the display, no rule of thumb as to
weight, all depends on porosity of the rock. In time the base rock will become
"live".> I also have a question about feeding corals. From the articles I have
read on WWM it sounds like phytoplankton and other bottled filter feeding
formulas aren't the way to go. What then would you recommend for corals such as
mushrooms, zooanthids, and gorgonians? I've been reading
but haven't been able to find a clear answer. <I switch between DT's Live
Phytoplankton and Cyclop-eeze myself. Keep in mind that most corals produce
much of their own food supply. Do read FAQ's here for more information. http://search.isp.netscape.com/nsisp/boomframe.jsp?query=coral+system+lighting&page=1&offset=0&result_url=redir%3Fsrc%3Dwebsearch%26requestId%3D704879f5ada710e7%26clickedItemRank%3D1%26userQuery%3Dcoral%2Bsystem%2Blighting%26clickedItemURN%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.wetwebmedia.com%252Fcorllgtg.htm%26invocationType%3D-%26fromPage%3DNSISPBoom%26amp%3BampTest%3D1&remove_url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.wetwebmedia.com%2Fcorllgtg.htm>
Thank you for your help. <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Coral Health/Feeding 7/27/05
Hello crew,
<Hey, Mike G here>
This e-mail is more for my peace of mind so please pardon my ignorance
as I am a new to this hobby/obsession (3 months) and just want to make
sure I understand what I have been reading and am doing things right.
<The mark of a good hobbyist>
I have a 54 gallon tank
<A nice beginner size>
150 watt MH light w/ 2 65 watt blue actinics
<very nice.>
ammonia 0, nitrites 0, nitrates 0, PH 8.3, calcium 450, alkalinity 6.0,
water temp 79 degrees
<Your parameters are all in order>
Fluval 304 filter
<I doubt this is necessary. In fact, some would argue it is merely a
Nitrate Factory.>
protein skimmer
<I'd keep this and ditch the filter.>
I have a giant mushroom, orange Ricordea (who never stays in one spot),
and the newest addition is a branching hammer.
<A nice assortment.>
I currently have no fish and some crabs and shrimp. I plan on adding
other LPS corals such as bubble, frogspawn, etc. The guy at my LFS
informed me that the corals I have would be fine with just moderate
lighting, addition of iodine once a week (I use Lugol's), and DT's
phytoplankton every other day.
<Sounds about right. Phyto is really unnecessary here.>
I have been reading your site for the past 3 days and from what I am
reading, the addition of phytoplankton for the corals that I have and am
going to get is pretty much useless. Correct?
<Yep.>
I am going to begin feeding with Mysis shrimp tonight and will probably
feed the hammer 5 times a week and the mushroom and Ricordea once a
week.
<Be careful, great water conditions coupled with strong light and heavy
feedings will result in many, many "baby" corals magically appearing.>
Any additional information is greatly appreciated and I thank you for
your help and knowledge.
<Actually, it seems as if you did not need my help. You're off on the
right path. Kudos for starting out right!>
Danielle
<Mike G>
Coral Food and Supplementation
Hello,
I have two questions. Sorry. You guys are very informative and your
website rocks.
1) My question is about supplementation and food for corals and
invertebrates. I have the following animals in my tank.
Corals:
Green Bubble
Candy Cane
Mushroom
Zoos
Kenya tree
Invertebrates
Feather Duster
Hardware
46G Bowfront
30-40 lbs of LR
2 96W PC
Rena Canister Filter
Fluval 404 Filter - with Bio Material only
Aqua C Remora
Internal MaxiJet for additional flow
I have been looking for some good advice at what to feed my corals and
invertebrates. There are about 4 LFS within 30 mile radius from my
house. Each time I go to them for questions they always try to sell me
stuff. Which after reading your site, I realized that I don't really need
them. One of the LFS told me that since I have my skimmer running 24 X
7, I need to constantly replenish my trace elements, thus selling me the
Reef Solution, and Coral Vite solution. As for food, they sold me Krill,
silverside, Marine Snow, Kent Filter feeders. I just had enough from
them. I also went to them with the question of Iodine. I read that
mushrooms needs a supplement of iodine and again they tried to sell be the
Lugo Iodine. Even after I told them that the Reef Solution already
contained Iodine and No, I do not have a test for Iodine yet. I am tired
of going to my LFS store with the feeling of being taken advantage of.
<I can sense this>
After I started going to your website, I stopped asking them questions and
started to go to the LFS knowing already what I need. So could you
please point me to the right direction as to a brand of supplements and
food you recommend?
<... you need, test kits... for whatever it is you believe you're needing to
add... I would get/use something for alkalinity and calcium and leave all else
out here... Along with water changes, careful feeding, you don't need, nor
likely want more.>
I feed my Green bubble coral silverside and chopped
squid. Frogspawn, Zoos, Candy cane, Feather Duster I am not sure that
filter food brand to give.
<Best to add a live sump, aka a refugium to this set-up, and rely on this as a
principal food provider for your filter feeders. Many other benefits as well...>
2) Question
I have a feather duster that lost its crown last week. I have not
removed the tube in fear that the worm may still be alive. At the same
time I am afraid that is the worm is dead then the tube may decomposed in
my tank thus creating a bioload nightmare from hell.
<Not to worry... In a system of your size, make-up, no big deal>
I have hermit crabs
in my tank and the hermit crabs has not jumped on the tube yet. Thus is
my indicator that the tube is still alive. I know that the hermit crabs
will know that the tube is decomposing thus they will try to eat it. I
am I correct with these assumptions? Or should I try to grab the tube to
check if the worm is still alive?
thank you
Louie
<I would leave it as is. Keep reading, chatting with other hobbyists... and
maintaining a skeptical mind... you'll do fine. Bob Fenner>
Should I add nitrate to my reef tank?
My water consistently tests 0 nitrates. I have a crocea and a couple of soft corals. I read in Anthony's book that there should be some level of nitrate, and recommends preparing a solution of sodium nitrate and using it to raise the level to 2ppm. Since the "state of the art" is always evolving, I want to make sure that recommendation is still appropriate.
< I think that is a terrible idea. I'd prefer to just feed my tank before adding nitrate. >
I've searched around the web and can find "laboratory grade" sodium nitrate from
Sergeant-Welch in small quantities at a reasonable price.
< A local chem. shop should have this item in stock. But again, I wouldn't do it. >
I've not had any luck in finding it at garden supply stores. Now I just need to hope
that ATF isn't tracking sodium nitrate purchasers!!
< Take a look at your fish load and feeding schedule. If you are feeding once per week, maybe feeding 3 times per week would accomplish what you are looking for. >
Thanks
Ken Baker
< Blundell >
Feeding Corals
Hi, I'm pretty new to this . Just started a reef tank. I started off with A fish Only tank. Then
decided to do a reef. I have a Cabbage leather coral, Kenya tree coral , button polyp. What should put in the tank to feed
them? 55 Gal, 60 lbs Fiji rock.
<Here is a link to an article on just what you're looking for. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/growingcorals.htm.
James (Salty Dog)> Coral feeding
I was reading through the site today and discovered the section on feeding corals. I looked on with stupidity because my LFS has always told me that they get everything they need from light.
<It was probably a mistake and it happens.>
I have to admit I am still not sure how to feed my corals. I bought some frozen
Mysis shrimp, but now what? I have never even seen sweeper tentacles. I have a frogspawn a torch, and a xenia, any suggestions as to how I should feed them (turkey baster
method, etc.) or what to feed them (zoo/phytoplankton) is greatly appreciated.
EY
<Hello, well you are on the right track from what I see. Knowledge is power. You should feed based on the needs of your corals. The frogspawn, and torch will probably take the
Mysis depending on size. The best time to feed them is at night using the
baster method. The xenia will take the phytoplankton. I want you to remember this. Although you should be feeding your corals, a big
beginner mistake is to over feed them when they first start. Start feeding little amounts and work your way from there. Good Luck. MikeB.>
Monti Feeding II
Hello Crew,<Hey,>
On the following response to a question that I asked I am a little confused. I have read on your site that Phytoplankton is not very useful with SPS corals.
<There are pro's and con's to using this product. Basically, there could be better food sources out there, such as
refugiums. But, in a bind DT's can get the job done if used correctly. Let me stress the word CORRECTLY.>
So I question the recommendation of DT's Phytoplankton. I have found BioLife's Coral Plankton and the SPS's seems to eat it (Polyps Expand), I am not sure about the particle size of
Cyclop-eeze and will also add the DT's if it is eaten. Otherwise, I look at it as algae food. I do like to feed as much of a variety as possible since I do not want to get into a refugium. Also this is becoming a SPS tank eventually (my favorite) however I do have BTA's with very happy Clowns and one
Galaxea, is this a
problem?
Thank you for all the help! Rich
<Rich, the BTA will be a problem eventually and so will the Galaxy coral. They will sting and bother the SPS corals. The problem with feeding food for the SPS corals is that people generally feed too much to the tank. This then causes a spike in water quality and
degradation of the corals. I would remove the BTA and the Galaxy coral to another tank if you want to keep the SPS corals long term. Also, use what ever phytoplankton you decide that works best in moderation. Good Luck.
MikeB.> Monti Feeding III
Hello Mike,
Thanks for the reply. The way that I have been feeding my SPS's is to stop all pumps for an hour or so and target feed just enough food to cloud the general area around the coral. I do this twice a week. I think that this is minimal pollution and hopefully (?) enough nutrition for the coral. How does that sound to you? Thanks again for the advice!
Rich
<Rich, your method sounds fine. I wouldn't consider the food as pollution though. It will provide the
sustenance your corals and microfauna will need. Keep it up!!! MikeB.>
Soft Corals 3/28/03
Good day WWM Crew,
<cheers, mate>
I have a Toadstool Mushroom Leather (Sarcophyton) and a Thin Finger Leather
(Sinularia) and I just want to ask about some observations I made:
1 ) I have noticed that every morning when I wake up, before any lights come on,
that both of these guys have long sweeper tentacles waving all over the place.
Do they use these to feed, or are they just used to keep other livestock at bay?
<the latter if that's what they truly are... purely defensive>
I have noticed that their tentacles and polyps are
out in the morning before lights come on, but when I get home from work (5:00 ),
the tentacles and polyps are retracted and stay retracted the remainder of the
evening. I'm not sure why this is.
<because these soft corals feed very little organismally. More so by
translocation (of nutrients from photosynthesis) and absorption. Some
nanoplankton too... but they really cannot eat any large plankton or prepared
foods>
It seems to me that the light would stimulate their polyps and tentacles.
<not really... the tentacles are a very small part of the photosynthetic
tissue overall>
2 ) Do they have to have their tentacles and/or polyps out to feed?
<nope>
3 ) I also have some corallimorphs ( Actinodiscus, Discosoma ). I believe they are
called Green Fluorescent Mushrooms. How do these feed?
<all of the above: organismal, absorptive plus perhaps by mucous too>
I have never seen any kind of tentacle or polyp. Most of them are also
"folded up", instead of laying flat. What does this mean?
<they've been watching depressing news coverage>
Note: I just got these corals this past Saturday.
<time needed to acclimate for certain>
4) I have been feeding all of the above including a bunch of Palythoa (Green
Button Polyps) a frozen algae. I can't remember the name, I think it's Reef
Treats. It's not just frozen algae, but has many meaty foods such as brine
shrimp, Mysid shrimp, sea urchin, squid, clams, oysters, and scallops.
<ahhh, yes... the fine meaty fare is better here>
Anyhow, I realize these are filter feeders, so I soak the food in
garlic and put in a small blender and use a turkey baster to target feed the
corals and coral polyps. I have only fed them twice since I have had them. Is
this a good practice, or is there something better to feed?
<truly depends on the species. Some like more phyto- than zoo-plankton>
As always, thanks Charlie
<best regards, Anthony>
Guillard formula
I've been putting some of f/2 Guillard (1tbsp/week in my 125gal tank) in my tank to induce algae blooms to feed my dwindling copepod population.
I seem to have an
interesting side effect however. since I've been using it I've noticed that some of my corals have become richer in color, perhaps due to stimulated growth of their symbiotic
algae. now I
haven't been logging any progress or doing any formal investigations but I'm sure that the f/2 is enriching these algae.
here's the question, do you know of any work that has been done on this topic? maybe you know someone who does. regardless
I could just be 'seeing' things. I hope I'm not, perhaps I could have stumbled onto something here....
<Am sure such works can be found through a computer bibliographic search... go to the college library and search with such key terms as "coral", "color"... Bob Fenner>
Jon Trowbridge
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