Specific Gravity and Ritteri Osmoregulation  1/25/08 Crew- <Craig> A question I wanted to get a clear answer on, and then some additional responses are down below for you to expound upon. Again we are talking about a ritteri anemone in specific here, but <Aka a Magnificent...> Being osmotic conformers, can anyone verify my hunches regarding the osmoregulation feedback loop of anemones? 1) If the SG in the surrounding water is lower than what the anemone wants, would it deflate to attempt to raise the concentration of salts within its tissues? Or is it the opposite? <Mmm, the initial solute concentration in such a setting would be higher inside the animal, through simple osmosis, water itself would "tend" to go into the tissue, swelling it... However...> 2) And the corollary: If the SG in the tank is higher than what the anemone prefers, will it inflate in an attempt to dilute the salt concentration in its tissues. <Actually the opposite... imagine placing your face in a sinkful of tapwater, opening your eyes... vs. opening them in the sea...> 3) Do anemones have some sort of mechanical automatic response when SG is changed (either raised or lowered)? <Mmm, yes... active transport... with slight changes in the osmotic make up of their immediate environments, there can be little to no discernible change... With large changes, anemones almost always "shrink" in response, behaviorally> 4) Upon acclimation from the wild, is it normal for this species to inflate/deflate 2-3 times per day as part of its acclimation process? <Mmm, yes... if healthy... When collected are VERY squeezed down, made smaller... and do "cycle" larger/smaller a few times diurnally... once again, IF in good health... thought to "flush" wastes...> How long (under optimal conditions) should this behavior be expected? <Mmm, invariably... with time, most Heteractis slow these oscillations, barring outside influences> Asking it another way: how long can the "settling in" process be for anemones, specifically ritteri? <Days to weeks to months> This is not my first experience with anemones, have been keeping a number of species (including this species) for several years now and have not seen such behavior out of any individual specimen until now. I did have a BTA that deflated totally about every other day, but this seemed geared toward waste removal as it would emit dark mucous-like material. There is no type of excretion in these ritteri. <Mmmm, can be. Have you read my survey piece: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/hetmagnifica.htm and the linked files above? Bob Fenner> Re: Specific Gravity and Ritteri Osmoregulation, and beh.   2/6/08 Crew- <Craig> A follow up to this issue we have been discussing: Over the last week or so, I have lowered my SG down to 1.023 according to the reading on my refractometer. As a result of this change, the ritteri has ceased its incessant inflation/deflation routine and now spends most of the time fully expanded. This is what you would describe as "normal" anemone behavior - we know they don't spend most of their time deflated, but they do occasionally deflate for acclimation/metabolic/other reasons. <Yes> Is it possible that my refractometer is off? <Mmm, yes> I have triangulated my results by using another refractometer to verify my readings (but it was the same model that belonged to my LFS). I was under the impression most inverts do not do well with less than full strength SG. <Actually...> If my refractometer is not off, should I leave the parameters where the anemone exhibits the most robust condition? <Yes, I would> I do tend to let the animals dictate conditions, not test kits/devices. <We are in total agreement here> These are more of a guide to get you in the ballpark, to help understand the various measurements of the optimal parameters. Secondly, given their colonial association in the wild, is it within the realm of possibility to re-introduce for good the second ritteri in this 140G system? <Mmm, maybe> It was removed to a separate system to help me understand its response to a different set of conditions. These anemones appear, at least visually, to be from the same geographic location since they are identical in coloration and physical characteristics. I understand that BTAs have cloned in captive systems (thus living in colonial associations), but this is obviously a different species. I have certainly apprised myself of the info on WWM regarding anemone systems in general, but for the record on THIS SPECIES, does anyone have experience keeping multiple specimens in a single tank? Thank you all for what you do. Craig <I wish I were home to send along some pix of Heteractis magnifica I have seen in the wild... In one area of Palau Redang, Malaysia, there is a city block of this species... with numerous (I counted nine) species of (some VERY old) Clownfishes... all bunched together... cooperating in their survival, protection... In other areas I've also seen obviously disparate (genetically) specimens of H. magnifica in close proximity... Do just take care to keep all pump intakes, overflows covered... for the probability of one or more of them "letting loose, getting about"... Bob Fenner>

2 Ritteri Anemones Changing Color   12/17/06
Please help, I have read all the articles on dyed Anemones. We were one of those people who had purchased a white dyed one unfortunately.
<... Never heard, seen a "white-dyed" Heteractis magnifica... likely "just" bleached... bereft of zooxanthellae due to handling, being placed in low-no light conditions>
We have had  it for approximately 5-6 months.
<A good long while>
It has stayed in the highest part of the  tank towards the lighting and the water flow.
<A clue...>
  Eats well and the  tentacles look very healthy.  In the past week it has been  turning a yellow color.
<Might simply be doing this in response to local conditions, feeding>
This concerns me because we also have a very healthy Ritteri in our tank  but since the dyed one is changing color now the healthy un-dyed one is  also getting the same yellow tint.
<Bingo... similar conditions, likewise response>
They were both on opposite sides of the  tank but shortly after we purchased the healthy one it moved to the location of  the dyed one.
<Mmm... though this species "mixes" better than all but one of the large actinarians used in the trade, it is best to house no more than one per system>
I thought that maybe the dyed Ritteri was returning to a  healthy stage but being both are changing color I don't know. Please help!
Penny
<Mmm... not much "to do"... except move one of them to another system... You have read here?: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/hetmagnifica.htm (the linked files above)? Bob Fenner>

Ritteri Anemone 5/21/04
Hello Anthony
<cheers Drew>
Recently bought a nice Ritteri Anemone from my LFS and was wondering about some strange things its does,
<this is such a beautiful anemone, but one of the most challenging cnidarians (among all corals and anemones) to keep in captivity. They require an extraordinary amount of light (halides ideally over 5 watts per gallon) and powerful water flow with target feedings several times weekly (finely minced meats only... no nig chunks) in a species specific tank (no other cnidarians). Most become a statistic within a year, sad to say. Please do take this advice to heart. I hope this works out for you!>
every night and hour before the lights go out it will lean almost lay down into the current? seems odd to me but I can not find anything on habits of an anemone other then they will wander.
<yikes... there is lots of info abroad (mostly negative) on the keeping of this anemone. Dig deeper my friend>
tonight he was leaning over and just fell off the rock?
SPG is 1.0235
ph is 8.3 - 8.4
temp is 78
water flow is approx 1300 GPH
90 Gallon aquarium.
for lighting I just installed prior to buying him, 4 VHO bulbs
all are 110 watts
2 Super actinic
2 Aquasun.
<the water flow is good.... but the lighting is not even close to par. The actinics are just for aesthetics and offer little to no help here (I still like them too though <G>). In essence, you have 220 watts (just over 2 watts per gallon) to keep this anemone with only two white bulbs... and worse still.... its VHO which is very attractive in my opinion, but only penetrates weakly into the water column. Unless the anemone sits in the top 8-10" of the surface, It is not getting enough light to even survive the next couple of months. My advice is to switch to four 7k - 10k K bulbs and force the anemone to stay near the surface (top 10"), unless a halide fixture is a possibility>
also like to mention that two True Perculas have taken to him only a few days after he was put in the tank. During the day he seems fine he is on a high point where he will receive lots of light and current but on a separate pile from the main rock work to deter wandering. sorry for the lengthy email just thought to pass on info I thought that may help. Thanks. Drew
<no worries... you are on the right track. I wish you the best of luck!>
ps. plan on buying your book I found an autographed copy at my LFS and will be picking it up shortly.
<ah, thanks kindly :) Anthony> 

Ritteri shock?
Hello Crew,
<Graham at your service.>
Sent an email about my ritteri falling off his rock, but received no response.
one thing i did notice though is its every night when i shut off the lights it falls off and rolls across the bottom of the tank, I have left it and it looks most unhappy so i always put it back on its rock where it seems fine till the next night.
<It's completely normal.>
Guess my question is, will the sudden change in light cause my ritteri to release from his rock thus being blown off from the current?
<No. As you probably know, anemones have no central brain -- thus why they cannot adapt to a certain environment. If your aquarium isn't fitting the exact needs the anemone would encounter in the wild, the anemone will move to find a suitable location. This move is commonly done during the night. With that said, leave your anemone and let it roam around the tank where it wants -- just make sure it cannot be sucked into a powerhead or filter.>
if so what can i do to prevent this with having to spend extra money for a dimmer.
<See above.>
am running a icecap 660 with 4 110 Watt VHO lights
2 super actinic to Aquasun.
Thanks as always
<Good luck! The Ritteri is a very difficult anemone to successfully keep. It's important to maintain excellent water quality and give the anemone ample amounts of lighting. You may also want to feed the anemone foods such as krill, squid, silversides, lancefish, etc. 3x weekly to give the anemone added nutrition. Take Care, Graham!>
Drew 

Ritteri anemone
Bob,
<Or M. Maddox, an admiring understudy of his>
I just bought a beautiful Ritteri anemone about 7 days ago. First 2 days were great and since the animal has reduced in size, its tentacles are not holding water and it's mouth has become visible. At this point, its floppy but both true Percs are still in it.
<Most don't fare well in captivity, mostly due to inadequate lighting\water motion>
Using 2 96 W compacts and the specimen is about 6 inches from the top. It has not moved so I feel like the flow and water conditions are OK. All levels are zero, pH is 8.4. What should I do. I add iodine and "all in one" and water change regularly. Tank is 50 gallons. 
<Case in point. I've seen Ritteri's park themselves 8" under a 400w halide bulb. You've nowhere near the required lighting for this animal. They also need flow in the thousands of gallons per hour (no laminar streams either), and they get huge (1 meter across). I'm sure the clowns aren't helping it adjust, either>
What is going on? I've had a hard time with anemone's in the past but that was before the new lighting. What is going on? Why? Is this specimen salvageable? How many hours of light per day? Do you recommend the actinic at night as well?
<Feed small pieces of meaty foodstuffs twice daily until you can upgrade your lighting, and if you can't upgrade your lighting to some intense halide lighting within the next couple of days I doubt you will be able to save it. Next time, research before buying!>
Thanks for your help. 
<You're welcome>
Chris Woodson, Los Angeles, CA
<M. Maddox, redneckville, TX>
P.S. Love the site.
<So use it!> 

Ritteri Question
Hi!
<Hello! :D>
Could you explain why my 3 percula clown fish keep knocking and taking the pieces of cockle I place in my anemone out of it?
<Simple - they want the food!>
I had a magnifica anemone which I only had for a month before it suddenly died and have just bought another similar anemone 2 days ago which looks great. 
<Problem with these guys is they require extraordinary amounts of light (I know of several specimens that have parked themselves directly under 400w halides) and require tons of flow (in the thousands of gallons per hour). They're very difficult to keep in captivity and I usually never recommend attempting one without years of anemone keeping experience>
The clowns took to it within minutes of it attaching to a rock in the tank but keep knocking any cockle it has in its tentacles out. Should I leave the feeding of it solely to them and it's reliance upon whatever it gets floating in the tank or persevere with trying to hand feed the cockles?
<Definitely not - keep the fish away from the anemone while it eats, and feed it well while it's acclimating>
I also have a problem with feeding my white blue-tipped Malu any cockle etc, before it gets chance it's whipped away by my coral beauty angel fish-any suggestions?
<Scare the fish away with a net or your hand while they are ingesting their food. Please read our archives regarding Ritteri (magnifica) anemones, and see the sticky posted under the anemone & clownfish forum at reefcentral for more info>
Many thanks in advance
<You're welcome, good luck!>
Mandy
<M. Maddox>