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FAQs on Marine Aquarium Maintenance/Operation 14

Related Articles: Marine System Maintenance, Reef Maintenance, Vacations and Your Systems, Marine System Set-Up

Related FAQs: Marine Aquarium Maintenance 1, Mar. Aq. Maint. FAQs 2Maint. FAQs 3Maint. FAQs 4Maint. FAQs 5, Maint. FAQs 6, Maint. FAQs 7, Maint. FAQs 8, Maint. 9, Maint 10, Maint. 11, Maint. 12, Maint. 13, Reef Maintenance 1

Hey, wanna Zagnut? Come'on, I got something good for ya. Antennarius hispidus (aka Shaggy angler) pic in N. Sulawesi by DianaF.

Changing tanks, reading   8/30/08
Hello,
<Julian>
I currently have a 90 gallon tank. Inhabitants include a Desjardin Sailfin Tang 4", Yellow Tang 5", Blue Tang 3", Queen Angel 4",
<Mmm... too crowded and this volume is too small for this Holacanthus sp.>
Dwarf Lionfish 4", Porcupine Puffer 4",
<Ditto>
2 Scott Damsels 1", 1 Redspot Damsel 2", and Lawnmower Blenny 3", and a snowflake eel about 12".
<Way too over-crowded... psycho- and physio-logically>
I also have an assortment of Hermits and Snails. They all get along well, but do get irritated at times because of the lack of space for all of them. I have 120lbs of live Rock and 100 lbs of live sand. I know this is very overstocked, and I am in the process of buying a 300 Gallon Aquarium. I was wondering the best way to change tanks. I don't want any fatalities as I love all my fish! Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Julian
<Posted: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/maintenance/maintindex.htm
Look for the pink tray... Bob Fenner>

New Setup,  SW maint.   8/11/08
Hi,
<Hello>
You guys have been very helpful with my new set up which I really appreciate. I have had my tank for about 6 months now and would like to ask you a couple of questions.
<Ok>
My system:
* 150G acrylic display tank with ~200 pounds of Fiji live rock and a small amount of live sand; Calfo style 60" overflow; return manifold with 12 outlets,
* 90G upper refugium with ~100 pounds of live rock (rubble, small pieces) with spaghetti algae, with 2 Lights of America lights
* 90G lower refugium with ~ 10 inches of live sand and spaghetti algae with 2 Lights of America lights
50G sump pump
* Octopus 200 protein skimmer
* Dart pump
* 3x250W 10,000K MH lights with IceCap ballasts
* RO/DI water
<Nice>
Water parameters:
* SG 1.024
* pH 8
<A little low.>
* Alkalinity 1.7-2.8
* NH3 0ppm
* NO2 0.05 ppm
* NO3 5 ppm
* Ca 440ppm
Fish:
* Yellow tang
* Powder blue tang
* Foxface rabbitfish
* cleaner crew (crabs, snails)
* I am planning on adding corals as soon as I resolve the two problems mentioned below.
<Sounds very nice.>
My first question is regarding the upper refugium: currently it contains small pieces of live rock (~100 pounds) and spaghetti algae however due to low flow rate of water I think that it became a detritus trap (the lower refugium and the display tank have a much higher water flow and are perfectly clean). When I shake the spaghetti algae and move the live rock, there are tons of small particles of detritus and dirty stuff. The refugium is full of all kinds of living creatures, such as small star fish, all kinds of warms, etc. However, I am concerned that the accumulation of detritus in the upper refugium will negatively affect the quality of water. What are my options? I am thinking about either getting rid of the upper refugium, or adding a powerhead pump to increase the circulation. But I am concerned that this always will be a dirt trap so I am not sure what to do.
<I would try the powerhead, keep the detritus in suspension until the skimmer can pull it out.>
Also, if I were to get rid of it, what can I do with the small pieces of live rock? Throw it away?
<Could, or just set it aside somewhere for a while till you find a use for it.>
Or should I turn off the lights above the upper refugium and just keep live rock and some filter media to allow growth of zooplankton?
<Could, but I think you will still have the detritus problem.>
Are there any benefits of having the upper refugium in addition to the lower one with deep sand bed (the idea was to have a second upper refugium which would produce food for my livestock and would feed directly into the main display tank without the pump chopping up all the plankton etc)?
<Different environment will encourage different things to grow, definitely not a bad thing, but probably not a huge difference from the lower refugium. Also for what it is worth, I would not worry too much the pump killing the plankton, most pass through no problem.>
If the lower refugium contains live sand and spaghetti algae what purpose should the upper refugium have and what should it house?
<More water volume is always a good thing, will tend to produce larger amphipods with the LR rubble. Some people will house shrimp to produce eggs and feed the tank, although be aware that they will hunt much of the little critters produce in the refugium.>
I am planning on keeping a garden type of coral reef with several fish.
Please advice.
My second question is about the nasty brown microalgae problem.
<Cyano? Diatoms?>
If I keep at least on of my MH lights on, the brown algae starts to cover all surfaces in my tank, such as live rock, sand, the walls of my tank. If I turn the MH off and keep a very low level of light, all the brown algae disappears. What may be causing this problem and how can I get rid of it?
<have you tested for phosphate? Silicates?>
I use DI/RO water but as long as keep the MH on the problem persists. The brown algae starts to form large air bubbles and keeps growing.
<Cyanobacteria is my guess.>
One thing that I have not done yet are water changes.
<Ah, start.>
Should I start changing water in small portions weekly?
<Yes, definitely.>
I have about 300G of water in the system.
<If you could do 10% weekly I think you will be in good shape.>
Thank you for your help,
John
<I would not do anything drastic until you start water changes, see if this alone does not improve your condition over a few weeks/months. Part of what is going on is just normal establishment of the tank, simpler, hardier life forms (Cyano) take hold first, usually outcompeted by more complex life over time.>
<Chris>

High KH level, using WWM  7/11/08
Hello again Bob. First of all I wanted to give you an update on my lionfish. He is eating great and constantly begs for food when he sees me in the room.
<Good, keep semi-hungry>
He will only eat freeze-dried right now, so I am soaking one small piece per night in Selcon and just got him to eat from the feeding stick. Now I am hoping he will eat other foods if offered in this way. But I come to you with yet another question and possibly a problem. I just picked up a KH test kit the other day and my test cane out to be 500 ppm!
<Mmmm>
All other levels tested good, PH is 8.0. Is this a problem and if so how do I go about lowering the KH? All tank inhabitants are great, all are eating and getting along just fine. Any feedback to this situation is much appreciated.
Thanks again for all your help, Shea
<... please learn to/use the search tool and indices... I don't have time to do for others: Here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/maintenance/index.htm
scroll down to Alkalinity... BobF>

Help! please! -Ants and Tanks! 5/10/08
Hey,
<Hello Sarah.>
I have an ant problem on my 20 gallon fish tank. The ants are laying their eggs under my filter and next to my light.
<Uh oh.>
I know that if we spray, we could harm the fish. We started vacuuming them up but more came back. We even threw the vacuum bag away outside. Is there anything that I can do to get rid of the ants?
<You will need to find the source, where they are coming in and seal it off. A good ant bait placed both inside where they enter and ideally outside where they are coming from will keep them from getting as far as your tank. I am personally fond of the Terro product line, very quick and effective. Couple this with your vacuum technique and your tank should be ant free within a few hours. If all else fails do not hesitate to call a professional exterminator.>
Thanks!
-Sarah
<Welcome, best of luck, Scott V.>

Dead Fish Removal, 5/1/08
Dear Wet Web Media,
<Hello>
My husband has a 40 gal salt water tank. He's traveling until Monday (4 days from now) and one of his fish has died. It's sort of under a piece of coral and I have no idea how to get to it nor do I really want to. Is it ok to leave it in the tank until he gets home?
Thanks for your response!
-Gina Keller
<Would be best if you could remove it, perhaps blow the body out with a turkey baster until it is in area where it can be easily removed. However if you do not feel comfortable doing this most likely the tank will be fine.>
<Chris>

New Marine Setup... gen. op.  4/23/08
Hi WWM, I have a new 50 gal tank that I'm setting up. I'm currently using a remora protein skimmer and an aqua clear filter with reverse osmosis water & instant ocean sea salt. I'm using live gravel/sand and live rock... Its been running over night and this morning the tank is still not clear yet. What do you guys think is the problem?
<Suspended sand particles most likely, will clear in a few days.>
The protein skimmer does create a lot of tiny bubbles, would that be it?
<Could be contributing to it.>
Or should I wait it out?
<Patience>
Help with your knowledge would be greatly appreciated. as you already know I'm new to this hobby. thanks
-Khoa
<Welcome>
<Chris>

Overcoming the Overstocking Urge!   3/12/08
Hi,
<Hey there! Scott F. in tonight!>
Great Site!
<Glad you enjoy it...We have some great people who do a fantastic service to fellow hobbyists worldwide!>
I've had my Oceanic 175 gallon bow-front tank up for 10 months now. I have about 150 lbs. of LR and 100 lbs. of sand in the main tank also, a 55 gallon refugium with 6" DSB with Chaeto and 50 gallon sump. I ultimately want to stock it full of corals. I have 3 - 250 w metal halide installed but only using the center one. I have two Tunze Stream 6101 circulating the tank.
I'm currently using a Corallife Super Skimmer Needle Wheel rated at 220 gal.
Is this efficient or should I get something else?
<If the skimmer is regularly producing skimmate, I would have no issues with it. If the skimmer is not producing, either tweak it until it does or replace it with a more efficient unit.>
Also, I'm having trouble keeping the nitrate low around 40ppm, I feed Nori about 4 sheets, 3 times a week and feed about 3-4 cubes of frozen mysis once a day.
<Continued good water management (including regular water changes, chemical filtration media, such as carbon, PolyFilter, etc) and careful feeding should do the trick. I assume that you utilize RO/DI water for source water.>
My other parameters, Temp: 78-80, Ammonia: 0, Nitrite:0, Ph: 8.2, SG: 1.025, Ca: 380 I do about 32 gallon water change every three weeks with RO water.
Right now my tanks has the following livestock:
(2) 1" Percula Clowns
(2) 2.5" Bartlett Anthias
(3) 3" Yellow Tang,
(1) 3.5" Orange Shoulder tang
(1) 5" Sailfin Tang
<That's a LOT of Tangs in almost any aquarium, especially a 175 gallon one! These fish eat heavily, produce copious amounts of metabolic waste, and need large amounts of physical space and water volume to live anything close to a natural life span. You will definitely need to find larger/other quarters for this collection, or you will continue to have rising nitrates and very unhappy fish!>
(1) 3" Midas Blenny
(2) 3" Diamond Goby
(1) 4.5" Magnificent Foxface
<Another nice fish, but gets quite large and my comments for the Tangs apply here, too.>
(1) 3" Hawaiian Flame Wrasse
(1) 2.5" Blue Hippo Tang
<Stop it with the Tangs, man. You're KILLING me!>
(1) 3" Rhomboid Wrasse
(2) Cleaner Shrimps
(1) Fire Shrimp
I have a feeling I'm overstocked and feeding too much.
<Ding! Ding Ding! We have a winner! Yes- you are WAAAY overstocked. All is not lost, however- I commend you on the first step to solving the issue- recognition that the aquarium is overstocked!>
I want to get my parameter down so I can start stocking the tank with corals.
<Good...Do rethink your stocking plan, and pare down (way down) your fish population. Keep in mind the large size that your Tangs will reach, and environment that they require to be healthy and happy. I would trade/return/find new homes for all of the Tangs and Foxface, with the exception of the Yellow Tangs. Although 3 of them in this sized aquarium is not ideal, it is a workable arrangement-in the short run.> Recently the
coralline just started to grow on a few rocks.
<Always a good sign.>
Also another quick question in my fuge the Chaeto just sit there, I've read that it's better to have it roll up into a ball and spinning. I'm a little hesitant to throw a powerhead it might fall and kick up the sand and be to hectic for the pods to reproduce. Currently I have baffles setup and water just flows over the stop of the Chaeto. I've notices some detritus on top of the sandbed. Should I be alarmed?
<The detritus is not in and of itself bad, but if allowed to accumulate, it could result in deteriorated water quality. Do siphon it regularly, and utilize some detritivorous animals (such as Starfish) to help "work" the accumulating detritus.>
I think the Chaeto is growing really well, I pull about half a 5 gal bucket once every month. Yet my nitrates aren't at 0.
Thanks.
<Well, you will see a decline in your nitrate levels with continued good husbandry, and a SUBSTANTIALLY reduced bioload. Make some stocking concessions and adjustments, and I'm certain that things will trend in your favor! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>

dead lionfish and stuff on my rocks, poor English, incredible mistakes, no reading  – 03/10/08
hey crew, what's up? im writing to you today, because my Volitans died on Friday.
<...>
My tank is a 29 ga, with a undergravel filter,
>... a volume of this size... too small for a Lionfish...<
crushed coral base, 1 powerhead, an aqua clear 20 to 50 gal filter. I have bout 5lbs live rock, about 5 lbs of dead rock, and various plastic plants, and a plastic hollow log in it. I did have a 4 to 5 inch Volitans lionfish, a ccstar, and 2 turbo snails. I know the tank was small for the lionfish but was all I have right now. I was working out a trade for a bigger tank till my buddy died. I went to work on Thursday and he was fine, I was out at work all day plowing snow. I got home at about 10 that night, and went and got some dinner. when I got back i turned on the light, and looked at my lil friend, and what I saw broke my heart. the only way to describe what happened is to say it looked like my fish melted. the cuticle on his long fins was just hanging in little pieces, and like I said, it looked melted. most of them was just the bone and he had
some spots on his body that looked the same. im curious to know what you think could have caused that, and how to treat the tank fo it.
<A lack of understanding...>
now for my real reason to write. I have been noticing this powdery stuff collecting on my rock and one of my plants, and on my log in there. its real bad on one of the live rocks.
<BGA... look it up, read about it...>
I do a 30% water change every 2 weeks and as of now my water readings are nitrate 20 nitrite 0 alkalinity is 300 and ph 8.4, spg 1.22 to 1.23.
<... no>
so im kinda lost here.
<Oh, this IS sensible>
I have enclosed some pics of my rocks with the stuff on it. the snails tend to stay away from the spots where the stuff is on the rocks also. if you could help me out I would be very grateful.
<Please... follow directions... run your writing through spelling, grammar checking before sending... Look for what is posted re your situation ahead... What you write, have is ludicrous... Bob Fenner>

Marine "Mulm" Woes!!! 2/20/08
Hello once again!
<Hello again John.>
In my AP24, I have replaced the stock recirculating pump with a MaxiJet 1200 last summer. I also have two Koralia Nanos that I installed about 6 months ago. The Nanos are on either side of the tank and sort of "shoot" at each other (I read that this creates random flow).
<Yes, an effective way to do it.>
Calculating my flow, I come up with 775 GPH. Since my tank is a 24 gallon, this works out to a turnover rate of 32.29x/hour, but realistically with all the LR, sand and other stuff in there I'm estimating that I really only have about 20 gallons of water, so the
turnover rate is probably closer to 38.75X/hour.
<That calculation assumes the pumps are at full capacity also, they usually are not.>
I think this is enough. <Yes.> However, I still tend to get a lot of "mulm" in several areas of my tank. You know what I mean - that gross fluffy stuff that tends to accumulate on LR that isn't being constantly blasted by Amazon River-sized currents. I think it tends to clog out LR critters so I am worried about leaving it in my tank, to say nothing about how unappealing it looks.
<It is not desirable to see, that is for sure.>
If I move the Nanos around to try to "blast" those areas, then they tend to get (and stay) cleaner. Unfortunately, this usually creates two other problems: 1) It tends to cause OTHER areas to now suffer from less flow and in turn creates a mulm buildup in those areas, and/or 2) certain corals (like my open brains) now get hit with what I feel is "too much" flow. Once a month I hook up my Vortex Diatom Filter and go to work with a turkey baster. I squirt off each and every square inch of exposed rockwork and let the water get all mucky, while the Vortex cleans it all up. By the time I am satisfied that I cannot possibly get any more gunk off my rocks the color of the diatomaceous earth in my filter has gone from a pristine white to the most yucky shade of brownish crud you could imagine, and my water is so clear that it looks like my fish are suspended in air.
While I know that using a diatom filter is a great way to really polish a reef tank, I also understand that I am in the vast minority and very few people need to resort to this sort of extreme filtration methodology to keep their tanks clean and "mulm-free". It almost seems too extreme to me.
<No, you should not have to do this.>
I WILL note, however, that when my Vortex is hooked up, all of my fish seem so much more "alive" and "frisky", even though the damned thing is tossing them about like they were in a tidal wave! They seem to LOVE to swim against the current. BTW - the Vortex adds ANOTHER 250GPH circulation to my tank, bringing the grand total to 51.25X/hour!!!
<Fun for a while.>
I didn't note it but I do NOT have ANY active filtration in my tank. I have been told that while canister filters are great at removing detritus, they are also nitrate factories and I have been advised to stay away from them and just rely on circulation and lots of LR rubble in the back chambers (I have several pounds back there). I also do not use a filter sock (no place to put it) nor any sponge media (gets too smelly too fast).
<This is the problem. You have plenty of circulation to keep the detritus suspended to a point, but nothing to catch and export it. A canister filter can work fine, the danger comes from the out of sight out of mind maintenance approach that often accompanies them. Canisters just need to be cleaned frequently, as does any other mechanical filtration. A skimmer will work wonders in your situation, although simply using the sponge media and washing it every few days is the simple answer to your issue.>
Am I going about filtration the wrong way here? Do I need to upgrade to (2) Koralia 1's instead in order to really increase flow? Maybe a 3rd Nano would help here?
<No, you have plenty of flow.>
I'm looking for any suggestions as to how I can get rid of my "mulm" problem!
<Needs to be taken out of the system somehow.>
Thanks
John
<Welcome, happy reefing, Scott V.>

Re: Marine "Mulm" Woes!!! 2/21/08
Hi Scott,
<Hello again John.>
Thanks for the (as ALWAYS!) detailed and prompt reply.
<I am glad to help.>
I do want to let you know right away that I have a Sapphire Aquatics AP24 skimmer in the R/H side rear chamber. It runs 24/7. The cup gets pretty gross every day. I run a somewhat wet skimmate.
<Great!>
I see now that flow is not my problem - it is detritus export, of which I have ZERO!
<Yes.>
OK, I think I'm going to go with an external canister filter and just be super-anal-retentive about cleaning it.
<Sounds good.>
I really cannot live with this gross grayish-brown crud all over my LR. I need to get it out!
<I know the feeling.>
So, how often is a good cleaning regimen for such a filter?
<At least once a week…in the past I have been OCD, cleaning daily.>
Also, I am sort of leaning toward Eheim - can you recommend a good model for an AquaPod 24?
<I am a fan of just about all of this company’s products, a small filter in any of their product lines will do a fine job.>
Regards,
John
<Happy reefing, Scott V.>

New to marine tanks; op. 12/19/07
Hi to all! Great site! You all helped me a great deal a while back when I started my first freshwater tank! Thank you!
<Welcome, thank you for the kind words.>
All is perfect with it. (55 gallon). I even moved it 3 hours away and didn't lose one fish! Than you for all your help!
<Awesome!>
Now I really need help. I just acquired a used 55 high tank. It was previously a reef tank. He lost everything in a move. Didn't want to start over. It has not been run for a while. The sand was dry and had some dried leaves and bugs. I sifted the old dry sand that was in the tank from some dried leaves and bugs and such. Everyone I talked to said to re-use it so I cleaned it by running tap water through it and really mixing it to get the debris out of it.
<Will be fine assuming it was not exposed to any pesticides, herbicides or other outdoor chemicals while outside.>
It had been sitting on his porch for a while. I filled the tank with water that I dechlorinated and added an extra 15 lb. bag of "new" live sand over top of the old. I have a wet/dry system made by Sealife, a Rio 2500 powerhead for return, and a protein skimmer all running now. Salinity is within range now. It also has (2) 96 watt bulbs. One blue (actinic?) and one red.
<Red??>
There is also a pretty new Current light fixture that is not working. I am working on having that looked at. Tank filled on Sunday. Sand and salt added Monday. It has been 3 days since sand and salt. Salinity in range on third day.
<OK>
I am trying to do all my research in the best way to cycle my tank. I have been told so many things by so many pet stores!! All the websites tell me different ways as well. I don't want to spend a great deal of money on live rock, just to have it all die because I am not an expert in what I am doing. Nor do I want to kill fish unnecessarily.
<Agreed.>
I have been told to cycle it with 2-3 damsels only, but when the cycle is finished they become very territorial and I might have a problem adding more fish.
<Yes, damsels are good if you want damsels! Since you are planning a FOWLR, I recommend taking the biomedia out of the wet/dry and stick with live rock.>
Some are telling me to use live rock only.
<The way to go.>
Do I need to add chemicals to add live rock?
<No.>
Some tell me to just add it now. Some say don't add it until your tank is cycled!
<Add it now.>
I am so confused! I have always wanted a saltwater tank. I am aware that they are extra work to maintain.
<Depends, not always.>
I know I am not ready for a reef tank, but I really would like to at least attempt a FOWLR tank over a fish only tank.
So my questions are; Fish cycle or live rock cycle? If live rock is the way to go, could you tell me what the minimum I would need in order to cycle the tank properly without wasting too much money if it dies?
<I would start with 40-50 lbs or so and go from there. It is very difficult to actually kill live rock. I would suggest looking in your local classifieds/internet listings. Sometimes you can find great deals on live rock.>
I know that some will die off when I get it. Should I scrub it first?
<Not unless there is a lot of decaying matter on the rock.>
Should I keep it moist with a saltwater spray for a few days to remove any unwanted critters??
<Put it in the tank.>
Is my lighting ok for live rock? If so, how much lighting is needed daily?
<You will want to read through the FAQ’s on lighting and determine what bulbs you have in relation to what is appropriate as far as spectrum. The wattage you have will be fine.>
Also, do I need to add another powerhead in the bottom of the tank for the live rock?
<More circulation wouldn’t hurt.>
If so could you recommend a size/brand?
<MaxiJet, Hagen, Tunze. The Hydor Koralias are fairly nice also. Anywhere from a couple hundred gph to six or seven.>
Any chemicals prior to or during the cycle?
<No. Just keep your skimmer running and be prepared for water changes.>
Wow! I am really stressed!! I know you can help me!!
<Stop, relax, breath!!>
Thank you in advance!!
Raesunrae
<Welcome, keep reading to familiarize yourself with the basics here. Start with the link below, it will tell you what to do with the rock once you get it. Best regards, Scott V.>
http://wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_2/cav2i3/Live_Rock/live_rock.htm


Brown Residue, SW algal succession
 12/5/07
Hi. I've been trying to set up a saltwater fish tank for a couple of months after switching from fresh water fish that I've done for many years. I'm taking my time and about a month ago I added 2 gobies that seem to be doing fine. A couple of weeks ago I started noticing a brown residue all over my live rock, sand, filter head, etc.
<Mmm, typical>
I've been testing my water the last 2 weeks (salinity, nitrates, ammonia) and everything seems to be fine. I live on a farm with well water, but the water isn't hard (no sulfur, very low iron). Thank you, I appreciate your time.
William Fisher
<Likely a combination of Diatoms, with some greens, perhaps BGA involved... Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/algaeasfriend.htm
and the linked files above... and be patient. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Inherited saltwater fish tank--help! 12/2/07
Dear WWM crew,
My husband and I have inherited a saltwater tank from my brother-in-law who is moving. I am clueless about saltwater tanks, and my husband doesn't know much more. After doing some reading on your website, I have realized that we have a pretty big glass anemone and bristleworm problem. From your advice, it seems that getting a few peppermint shrimp will help to address both of these problems. I hope this is correct.
<They can, no guarantee. Bristleworms in general have a bad reputation that is undeserved. Most are beneficial to your system. An abundance of both indicates a problem with excess nutrients/overfeeding.>
To give you some background info, we have a 30 gallon tank with live rock (it's all grayish in color, no pretty coral) and the groundcover is this white gravel/sand.
<If it is too course and trapping detritus it is not helping your problem.>
I have noticed a patch on the ground cover that is bright Kelly green (algae maybe). The only living thing other than the worms and anemones is our clown fish. There was a snail, but he died about a month ago. (Maybe the bristleworms ate him? Or maybe the tank water is way off?)
<Likely died and worms are doing their job.>
I would like to really work on the tank, but I'm not really sure where to start b/c I don't want to lose our little clown fish- he is such a trooper- and I don't want everything I put in there to die. Do you have suggestions on what would be good next steps to take? Thank you in advance for your help.
Sincerely,
Stephanie Aring
<I would start by getting water quality readings. Either by a test kit and hydrometer or take a water sample to your local fish store, most will test it for you. Past that you should read through the FAQ’s on marine substrates, water quality, filtration etc. I would also highly recommend picking up a copy of Bob’s book The Conscientious Marine Aquarist to orient yourself with the basics of keeping a marine tank. You can email DiLagg@Hotmail.com for a great combo deal on this book. It is very much an enjoyable hobby, keep with it. Good luck, Scott V.>

Re: Maybe Aiptasia and something else… Update... now, mar. maint.  11/20/2007
Hey Mich... thanks again!!
<Hi Jason... Welcome again!!>
I got rid of the Proclear skimmer. I got a super deal on a Berlin. The Proclear is several years old and I am having the worse time trying to tune it in w/o getting micro bubbles. The Berlin seems to be the best skimmer that will fit in my sump as well as being a reputable product.
<Ahh, upgrades are good!>
So beneficial food huh??
<Yup!>
Good deal, those "Scuds (Gammarus shrimp) or Mysis shrimp" they seem rather peaceful and just scurrying about the rocks.
<Oh they are peaceful. They are detritivores. And your future fish will find them tasty!>
Believe me I'm taking my time. I don't plan on adding any corals or fish until the middle of January or so. This will give the system 2 months to acclimate itself.
<Excellent!>
Now on to my lighting. I have a PC 260 watt, w/ moon lighting. I have been running actinics 11 hrs, daylights 9 hrs since start up. I have some noticed some live corals, looks like some polyps, on a couple of rocks.
<Good!>
Should I continue to run the lights like so, or should I cut back the timing b/c of the algae bloom?
<I think I would continue to run the light as you have been. The algae is a normal part of the cycle. If it gets bad I would increase the frequency and quantity of your water changes.>
Well that’s it for now. Thanks for the valuable info again.
<You're welcome as always. I'm happy to share. Mich>

No Questions… But a Story... mar. maint.  11/2/07
<Hi Bridget, Mich here.>
Just thought I'd share.
<OK. Got any chocolate you can share as well? I could really go for some right about now!>
I have 14 aquariums
<Severe MTS (Multiple Tank Syndrome)>
and have been pretty addicted since I was about 8 yrs old.
<Admitting it is the first step...>
Most of my tanks have guppies, I breed 4 lines. I also have 2 Calico Oranda's that I adore, my grandson's favorite. 7 blue blushing angels and 1 electric blue hap (cichlid) for disposing of the bad guppies.
<Yikes! I'm a good guppy! I'm a good guppy!>
Multiple bottom feeders. Really like fancy/exotic Pleco's
<I am woefully ignorant of fresh water fish... but I do know what guppies and bottom feeders are!>
We set up the salt tank (our first) about 2 yrs ago, it was hubby's tank and I've let him enjoy and kind of stood back on it. WE started with the breeding pair of True Percula's and a long tentacle anemone. They have done well and thrived as well as our 3rd fish the Coral Beauty. That's all the fish we have in the tank at this time, due to that darn Green Brittle star.
<Yes, they are quite predatory... Also called the green death for good reason.>
3 Hawaiian feather dusters. Hubby's cheap about some things and he built most of the reef with lace rock and has added a few select pieces of live rock here and there.
<I am a fan of LR.>
I can honestly tell you that my interest in the tank was minimal until he got that live rock. Now I find myself constantly in front of the tank. There's just so much going on all the time.
<Yup. I spent many of hours just staring at the live rock... Be cautious who you tell that you enjoy spending time looking at rocks... people will question your sensibilities.>
We have a few pieces of coral, we've started adding it over the past 6 months or so. Those don't thrill me nearly as much as the live rock does.
<Yup.>
Their names tend to come and go in the memory banks. Just recently purchased something called a green plate coral. He's interesting, has this big mouth that opens up at feeding time and these little feelers that reach
out and grab the food and flipping it into his mouth. Kind of looks like the electric green Ricordea mushrooms we have (4).
<I see how you might say that.>
We also have some LPS coral that came in on the live rock, looks like Aiptasia, with a yellow ring around the red mouth.
<A pic would help to Id this...>
This I've noticed is really active at night and expands probably quadruple its daytime size.
<Hmmm...>
It's far away from anything it can hurt just to be on the safe side.
<Likely a good idea!>
2 other corals that slip my mind on names, kind of generic looking plant type's that wave their hands at the food, dancing something.
<Pulsing Xenia?>
We have about 6 or 7 of the red hermits and one black and white striped hermit.
<Am not familiar with the black and white striped... perhaps it is green and white striped (Clibanarius sp.)?>
I can tell you my personal favorite out of everything in the tank is that striped hermit. He is just the most amusing animal out of all the tanks. I sit in front of the tank and he finds me, comes racing up and "plays" with me. I pretend I'm scratching his back and he rolls his shell around at me against the glass. I stop and he tries to climb the glass to get closer to me,
<Heehee! I'm very glad that this animal is giving you so much enjoyment! Your connection to this animal is truly the reason to keep aquariums.>
he'll also run up and down in front of me waving his little claws at me.
<Don't you wish you could know what he was thinking?>
I can honestly say that I was hesitant to buy him, he's nowhere nearly as colorful as the reds.
<Color is not everything.>
But I'm really glad I did.
<Very good.>
I can honestly say that I would be happy with 100lbs of live rock and him. Nothing else.
<Heehee! Would be a wonderfully low maintenance system!>
The fish are fun and we love our anemone’s (long tentacle, rose bubble
tip and the little flower)
<Oh this is not good. You should not be mixing multiple species of anemones. Please see here and many related links in blue:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anemcompfaqs.htm >
and corals. But it's the live rock that really grabs me.
<It's amazing the life that is present here. And if you had a microscope you'd be even more blown away!>
Take care
<Thank you, you as well.>
and thank you for all the help you do.
<We are happy to help.>
I am on your site by the way looking at your books and I do plan to purchase them.
<You might want to check out the daily Q&A's... Bob has been posting some bargains on his books there:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/daily_faqs3.htm >
Too bad the posters aren't in book form that would be fun too.
<I would agree with you there. Thank you so much for sharing your story Bridget. I do hope you share your passions with your grandchildren as they are the stewards of the future. A wonderful story! Thanks again, Mich>
Bridget

 

Re: No questions… But a Story... mar. maint.   11/5/07
> <Hi Bridget, Mich here.>
> Just thought I'd share.
> <OK.. Got any chocolate you can share as well? I could really go for some right about now!>
Chocolate yuummm
<<One of my favs!!!!>>
> I have 14 aquariums
> <Severe MTS (Multiple Tank Syndrome)>
Yes very severe
<<A common ailment!>>
> and have been pretty addicted since I was about 8 yrs old.
> <Admitting it is the first step...>
Lol you're too funny, this was great to wake up to this morning, has had me snickering to myself all day.
<<Laughter is a beautiful gift! Happy to entertain!>>
> Most of my tanks have guppies, I breed 4 lines. I also have 2 Calico oranda's (fancy goldfish with the outside brain looking things on the heads)
<<Genetic mutations gone wild!>>
> that I adore, my grandson's favorite. 7 blue blushing angels and 1 electric blue hap (cichlid) for disposing of the bad guppies.
> <Yikes! I'm a good guppy! I'm a good guppy!>
LOL snicker
<<Heehee!>>
> Multiple bottom feeders. Really like fancy/exotic pleco's
> <I am woefully ignorant of fresh water fish... but I do know what guppies and bottom feeders are!>
> We set up the salt tank (our first) about 2 yrs ago, it was hubby's tank and I've let him enjoy and kinda stood back on it. WE started with the breeding pair of True Percula's and a long tentacle anemone. They have done well and thrived as well as our 3rd fish the Coral Beauty. That's all the fish we have in the tank at this time, due to that darn Green
> Brittle star.
> <Yes, they are quite predatory... Also called the green death for good reason.>
He's going back to the pet store in the morning
<<OK.>>
> 3 Hawaiian feather dusters. Hubby's cheap about some things and he built most of the reef with lace rock and has added a few select pieces of live rock here and there.
> <I am a fan of LR.>
> I can honestly tell you that my interest in the tank was minimal until he got that live rock. Now I find myself constantly in front of the tank. There's just so much going on all the time.
> <Yup. I spent many of hours just staring at the live rock... Be cautious who you tell that you enjoy spending time looking at rocks... people will question your sensibilities.>
> I will heed this warning, lol
<<Wise!>>
> We have a few pieces of coral, we've started adding it over the past 6 months or so. Those don't thrill me nearly as much as the live rock does.
> <Yup.>
> Their names tend to come and go in the memory banks. Just recently purchased something called a green plate coral. He's interesting, has this big mouth that opens up at feeding time and these little feelers that reach
> out and grab the food and flipping it into his mouth. Kind of looks like the electric green Ricordea mushrooms we have (4).
> <I see how you might say that.>
> We also have some LPS coral that came in on the live rock, looks like Aiptasia, with a yellow ring around the red mouth.
I had the description wrong on that, it has a red ring around the
yellow mouth and is on this page on you site, first picture, candy coral?
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/stonycoridfaq.htm
<<Mmm, the block where candy coral is mentioned is in reference to a different picture. The top pic on the page looks more like something in the family Dendrophylliidae than the family Faviidae. But could be wrong. Perhaps yours is a Balanophyllia? An image here:
http://www.poppe-images.com/images/image_info.php?picid=929380 >>
> <A pic would help to Id this...>
> This I've noticed is really active at night and expands probably quadruple its daytime size.
> <Hmmm...>
<<This behavior is more common of the family Dendrophylliidae than the family Faviidae.>>
> It's far away from anything it can hurt just to be on the safe side.
> <Likely a good idea!>
> 2 other corals that slip my mind on names, kind of generic looking plant type's that wave their hands at the food, dancing something.
> <Pulsing Xenia?>
Yes one pulsing Xenia, and one dancing hands xenia, the dancing hands is much more active.
<<Mmm, never heard of a dancing hands xenia... Perhaps the more active one is xenia and the other might be anthelia?>>
> We have about 6 or 7 of the red hermits and one black and white striped hermit.
> <Am not familiar with the black and white striped... perhaps it is green and white striped (Clibanarius sp.)?>
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/hermitfaqs3.htm
this page second picture, he never ID'd it
<<Mmm, sorry, many possibilities...>>
> I can tell you my personal favorite out of everything in the tank is that striped hermit. He is just the most amusing animal out of all the tanks. I sit in front of the tank and he finds me, comes racing up and "plays" with me. I pretend I'm scratching his back and he rolls his shell around at me against the glass. I stop and he tries to climb the glass to get closer to me,
> <Heehee! I'm very glad that this animal is giving you so much enjoyment! Your connection to this animal is truly the reason to keep aquariums.>
> he'll also run up and down in front of me waving his little claws at me.
> <Don't you wish you could know what he was thinking?>
You want the honest truth he's probably telling me it's his tank,
<<He very well could grow to be the boss!>>
although today I was playing with him and he flipped upside down and
exposed his tummy, coming about halfway out of the shell. I wouldn't
think exposing himself like that would say that he's being aggressive.
Maybe submissive?
<<Perhaps, generally is with out 4-legged animals, but... don't know with a hermit crab.>>
> I can honestly say that I was hesitant to buy him, he's nowhere nearly as colorful as the reds.
> <Color is not everything.>
> But I'm really glad I did.
> <Very good.>
> I can honestly say that I would be happy with 100lbs of live rock and him. Nothing else.
> <Heehee! Would be a wonderfully low maintenance system!>
> The fish are fun and we love our anemone’s (long tentacle, rose bubble tip and the little flower)
> <Oh this is not good. You should not be mixing multiple species of anemones. Please see here and many related links in blue:
> http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anemcompfaqs.htm >
Yes I know, the long tentacle was purchased and the other 2 were hitch hikers, we keep them far apart right now, the flower is only about 3/4" and I don't think it'll get any bigger, we've had it about 4 months now.
<<Time will tell>>
> and corals. But it's the live rock that really grabs me.
> <It's amazing the life that is present here. And if you had a microscope you'd be even more blown away!>
> Take care
> <Thank you, you as well.>
> and thank you for all the help you do.
> <We are happy to help.>
> I am on your site by the way looking at your books and I do plan to purchase them.
> <You might want to check out the daily Q&A's... Bob has been posting some bargains on his books there:
> http://www.wetwebmedia.com/daily_faqs3.htm >
Darn already bought the one on Amazon, couldn't find any others, grandbabies are due any minute so got to run for now but will check back and see if I can get the other books.
> Too bad the posters aren't in book form that would be fun too.
> <I would agree with you there. Thank you so much for sharing your story Bridget. I do hope you share your passions with your grandchildren as they are the stewards of the future. A wonderful story!
Isn't that the truth!!
> Thanks again, Mich>
> Bridget
You have a wonderful day
<<Thank you! Wishing you the same Bridget!>>
Bridget

Help with white slime...  10/2/07
Hello. I have a problem I have set up my saltwater tank and it has been running about 2 months. It is a 50 Gallon with Berlin style sump I made myself. The filter sock and sponges keep getting clogged, almost on a daily basis, with a clear to white slimy substance.
<Interesting... and frustrating>
I am also seeing what looks like clear strands of slime on the live rock and walls. When I first noticed it I did a 25% water change and have been doing 10% every 2 weeks. It has not seemed to combat the problem. I am running 250 gallons per hour through the sump, and I am using 2 Maxi-Jet 1200 power heads. I am getting good skimmate from my skimmer and am still scraping the aquarium and cleaning the filter sock and sponges almost daily. I have searched your site and the only things I saw close was maybe a biological bloom, but they were for freshwater. What else can I do to fight this? Also, should I be brushing the stringy "slime" off of the live rock?
<Well... most all new systems go through definitive "stages" of apparent development/unfolding (evolution if you will)... with some, due to available nutrient, light, other conditions, a dearth of competitors, predators... an earlier start, predominating due to prevailing circumstances... Often these are NOT desirable life forms as here... the question/response really becomes/is, "What to do that's appropriate" to re-set, upset the dynamic/s here to favour the types of life you'd like? You can just skip ahead and introduce some life form/s that can/will supplant the mix of Protozoans/Thallophytes/sponges that the mess you currently have is likely mostly made of... (which is what I'd do), or you can try to change some chemical/physical property/ies to damage the equilibrium present that is favoring them... Or even, the most extreme, poison the system and start again... What other life have you installed? Do you intend to add? I'd like to chat this over, and suggest you go ahead with something that is most likely to survive, overcome the current mix. Bob Fenner>

Pale brown clinging dust in my saltwater tank   10/21/07
I have a 135g saltwater tank that has been up for about 8 years. It was originally a beautiful reef tank before I had an explosion of Aiptasias which dominoed into a total tank wipeout of my corals.
<Yikes!>
I kept the live rock and fish going but had this brown clinging trash appearing. Frustrated I started over with a fish only with fake coral and some live rock (4 yrs ago) I took the original sand and tried filtering out all this brown dust like waste. To this day I cant get rid of this , I take out all the decor and clean it from time to time but this clinging fuzzy crap keeps coming back. Water changes don't seem to help so I quit trying that. My water parameters check out fine and I use RO as that is how I make a living. I'm looking at starting over with new sand and everything but I don't know if that is a necessary expense. This stuff settles to the bottom when you scrape it off the glass and rocks and clouds the whole tank . It looks so unnatural and doesn't look like diatoms or any other algae i read about. What is this and do you have any ideas on what I should do?
Thank you
Jason Henderson
<I wonder what is "dust" is exactly... Do you have access to a microscope? Do you imagine it is biological, abiological? Algal? I might try a diatomaceous earth filter (likely a LFS about will rent you one) in the short term to try and screen most of it out... But if this is something live, replacing it with more desirable competing and/or predaceous life is the route to go... Again, really need to know "what" it is... Adding a live sump/refugium, with purposeful, lighted macro-algae, a DSB there... will likely be my further suggestion. Bob Fenner>


Re: Marine Systems...The Need To Read – 10/11/07
Hi Eric,
<<Hey Mickey!>>
Thanks for your valuable advice.
<<My pleasure to give, mate>>
I will be deploying an external skimmer very soon as I am aware this is a must really.
<<A very useful and valuable bit of kit, yes…might I suggest you have a look at the offerings from AquaC (http://www.proteinskimmer.com/productsnew.htm)>
As for the brown coral sand will this eventually go away? Or do you think it will only be eliminated by using RO water?
<<If your tap/mains is the source of the silicate then yes, will require an RO/DI unit>>
Once again thank you so much for your help.
Micky
<<Happy to assist. EricR>>

Questions... SW maint.  – 10/04/07
Hi Mr Fenner,
<Kamal>
Many thanks for the advice and prompt reply. I have checked my water quality and they read: ammonia at 0.0, nitrite at 0.0, nitrate at 10ppm, Ph at 8.3, gravity at 1.022 (should I drop this to 1.020?).
<Mmm, no... I would keep this nearer to seawater strength... Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/spg_salinity.htm
and the linked files above>
I'm hoping that my water conditions aren't the reason for the problems with the raccoon and flame.
<Are at least a contributing influence>
I have removed the raccoon from the main tank into my quarantine tank as advised.
<Good>
Yes I will be investing in a larger tank soon when my LFS has a sale on next month.
<Good>
About my filtration, if I wasn't upgrading to a larger system what kind of filtration would you recommend? A sump?
<Mmm, yes... and for you to read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.hthttp://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm>
Final question: I have noticed these white things attached randomly all over my tank, what are they?
<Could be a myriad of things... A photo might help>
I tried taking them off with my magnetic algae remover - and I found it to be a challenge to do so.
Thank you my friend.
<Keep reading Kamal, you'll do fine. BobF>

Some questions... w/o looking first, reading  10/3/07
Hello All!!
Quick run down I am still battling the blue green yuck after the heater disaster it is receding though!! Yay me! I was looking at the tank and thinking I want to take the crushed coral out. There is 15 lbs of it in there mixed in with the Arag Alive (60lbs) I think I need the buffering but the sand fell right through it and to top it off now I have the cyano I am assuming from detritus. I also wanted to add a few critters down the road and wondered if that particular substrate would pose a problem for them. The tank is 55 gallons. current occupants 5 Astraea snails, 3 blue green Chromis, a camel back shrimp, and a chocolate chip starfish.
I really need something to help turn the substrate over. I am open to suggestions however let me list my wish list first and see if maybe you have a compatible recommendation.
Percula clown
Royal Gramma
Blue Hippo Tang
Lettuce Nudibranch-
<... none of these>
I haven't been able to find much on compatibility of them
<Posted on WWM.>
And I really want a sand dollar.
<Not here>
Haven't been able to find much on them either.
<Keep reading>
I also love the coral beauty but realise I probably wont have room for it.
would all of the above minus the coral beauty be overstocked?
<...>
So I was wondering #1 can you mix star fish?
<Posted...>
I considered a sand sifting star or 2 but didn't want anything that might bother the chip.
Also will I need to remove the crushed coral? And how? I considered sifting it out but am leery of doing anything that might bother my little critters in the sand. Should I simply add some sugar fine sand until I cover the coral? Seems to me that would just trap all sorts of junk in there but obviously I am not am expert so thought I would ask. Another consideration, I was thinking of adding some maiden hairs to the tank. Also what about sea lettuce? I really love how it looks and seems so beneficial. Also one more thing. In which order should I add these things to make it a smooth transition for everyone? I should also point out that there are no corals in the tank only about 30 lbs). I would like to add more of that also and yes I realise it will be a full year with all that QT'ing) before I will have all that stuff in it. Patience is a virtue right???
Thanks again to you all! You have helped more than I can even tell you!!
Melissa
<Have just skipped down. Learn to/use the search tool, indices... BobF>

Oil on top of water maybe from yellow head jawfish?? Iodine article almost complete. 9/13/07
Bob and or crew.
<James>
Sorry for the delay on the iodine article. I have had a summer of tank issues as had my associate (mostly temperature fluctuations but also the following question). I have lost some frogspawn colonies and his corals have seen better days with a dramatic temperature shock when the heater burned out attempting to maintain tank temp on a cold night with a fan left on from the hot day.
<Yes>
Before going away I prepared some frozen food for my mother-in-law to feed the fish. I used the usual thaw and decant the pack liquid method and thought I did a reasonably good job of removing the excess pack juice and oils. Upon return there was a layer of oil on surface of the 24 gallon tank (the 75 gallon tank cleared up much easier). I first blamed the food as one brand of frozen matched the general consistency and odor/color. This was discarded. It has been two plus months and the problem continues to persist.
Despite skimming the oil off with a plastic container and letting the top layer drain into the cup the oil continues to return. I parted ways with the Condylactis anemone (to reduce tank load) and have increased the frequency of small water changes. Temperature fluctuations have been a big issue all summer with inconsistent air flow and 5 degree F temperature swings sometimes occurring despite my best efforts and abilities to keep the upstairs air conditioned or windows open when conditions allow. Could the oil on the top of the water be from the jawfish (stress response perhaps)?
<Mmm, no... Could be from another endogenous source but much more likely from an exogenous... Simple cooking oil use, aerosol in closely contained indoor environments very often entail such coatings... Can be an important impediment to gas exchange... I'd keep wicking off with plain, white, non-odorized paper towels...>
Bob, please send me an email with some contact information to send the iodine article.
<Oh! Can send along here as an attachment or my personal addr.: fennerrobert@hotmail.com>
Writing it has been a struggle to keep it both an easy read yet stay true to the science behind the halogen family.
<Ahh!>
My associate has done the testing and is less than impressed with the test kits thus far.
<Heee!>
One of his former occupations was water testing in an environmental lab. Again, sorry for the delay.
Thank you.
James Zimmer
<No worries. Bob Fenner>

Aquarium Cleaning Magnets...Which Ones Are Safe To Leave In The Tank? – 08/03/07
I have been looking into magnetic cleaners for cleaning everyday tank build up.
<<Wonderful devices>>
Of course I checked with/through your wonderful web pages first.
<<And...?>>
A little concern.
<<Oh?>>
You mentioned in one of the FAQ's that there are some magnets that shouldn't be taken out.
". . .Most aquarium magnets are safe for leaving in a system... but not all. I would pull these out when not in use... Please have your brother contact us re water chemistry checking, use of Polyfilter... as moves to correct the situation. Bob Fenner>"
I have felt to use it every day or at least every other, it would be more convenient to leave it in.
<<Indeed, and there are some brands that are very safe/designed for such use...is what I use. Please take a look at the “Algae Free” and “Magnavore” brands. I have a pair of Algae Free Tiger Shark Float magnets that have been in my tank for “years”>>
Somewhere else it was mentioned that not all magnets are made out of steel.
<<Tis true>>
So steel magnets are not good right? Or wrong?
<<Steel magnets can be fine as long as they are “sealed” from exposure to the water. Keep in mind that virtually all “submersible” pumps contain metals>>
Can you please tell me what to look for as far as what they are made of, or maybe even brands that you know of that are good or which are hazardous to the corals?
<<Any of the cleaning magnets from the two brands mentioned will serve well. They are a little pricier than most others, but... There are other brands that are/can be safe as well, but these two brands are the best in all aspects, in my opinion>>
Thank you as always for your never ending help.
Trisha
<<Always a pleasure to assist. EricR>>

Help! My tank looks like a plantation! 8/1/07
Hi y'all :)
<Hello there>
After a 30% water change due to a faulty Ph probe and associated calcium depletion, things in the tank are back on track
<?... previous corr.?>
and the livestock and coral are all fine. And except for this one teensy problem, I'd say tragedy averted. But there is, for the lack of a better term, cotton growing on the bottom of the tank. I added another 2" of Aragonite and this is on top of it. It just started yesterday. July was a bad month for me, but it's after midnight here so I'm crossing my fingers this is common, harmless and removable. Thanks so much for your help. Lisa
<... Is likely an opportunistic algae et al. population growth... taking advantage of the new substrate, lack of competition... If all else is balanced... enough competitors, nutrient export... all should be fine. Please peruse: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/maintenance/index.htm
Bob Fenner>

Help my reef tank! Alg. cont.  – 07/30/07
Hi. I have had brown slime algae in my reef tank for a while now. I bought red & green algae. Now I have brown slime algae & hair algae. Can you please help me???
<Shore. Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/algaeasfriend.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Stable water temperature? SW speculations on a return from HI snorkeling...  6/21/07
Aloha Mr. Fenner!
<Howdy!>
I just got back from the Big Island and Kauai, where I spent ten days snorkeling to my heart's content.
<Bet you have a nice tan!>
I want to ask you a question that's been on my mind for some time. I have read, over and over again, on this site and in your book how important it is to keep the water in one's aquarium at a stable temperature, and that stability is more important than achieving a specific temp.
<Mmm, yes>
The reason given is that the enormous ocean environment provides a stable temperature, which our livestock is inherently accustomed to.
<Agreed>
So, on to my question: I have noticed in years past, and again on my recent trip, that when I snorkel, I encounter patches of colder water, and then patches of warmer water, in the same general area, while I'm observing species that I have in my tank at home. What do you think?
<You are certainly correct... Particularly on the Big Island, there are zones where much cooler freshwater is intruding from "Pukas" and cracks in the rock... having traveled from higher elevations... this presents a difference in osmotic pressure and density as well as a varying thermal regime... Yet the life there appears healthy to me>
Are these temp differences I notice more subtle than I realize?
<I believe so... Maybe one way of putting this situation in perspective is to realize that the motile animals (do note the difference in species make-up and abundance in these areas in the way of not-so motile and attached biota) do move in/out of such zones (near the land, surface)... and that they are in good shape to begin with... and I'd speculate that the mixing in these areas is to their advantage in avoiding predation...>
I have been very curious about this, as I do struggle to keep a stable temp in my tank in my south florida home, especially in winter months.
By the way, I was struck by the incredibly strong currents in the ocean!
<Heeeee! More than Tunze and Hydor powerheads?!>
I have four power heads in my 130 gallon, and I fear they are woefully inadequate!
<Ah, yes... a useful lesson>
I appreciate whatever comments you have to make, and continue to enjoy and learn from this site, so thanks!
Elise
<Thank you for sharing... I do think "constancy" is an important aspect of our successfully maintaining a small part of a captive sea... but it is only one area of concern/influence. Cheers and a hu'i hou! Bob Fenner>

How To Clean Sand & Rock w/o Clean Up Crew 6/20/07
We have a 72-gallon tank w/about 60lbs of rock. We just got our first fish, a sunset wrasse (about 4 inches). It's totally cool! My understanding is he'll eat crabs and probably snails. <Possible> Assuming that's true, how do I keep my rock clean of algae? As always THANKS!!!!
<Same way you would with snails and crabs, water changes and limiting nutrients. Scavengers are over-rated in the control of nuisance algae since they don't actually remove any of the nutrients that are fuelling them. They help but ultimately controlling algae is done by the tank owner.>
<Chris>

Water change bio-filter & Ca/alk question   5/14/07
Hey guys-
<Wes>
    First off, as always, thanks.  I do believe I have read all the relevant FAQs, but I could be wrong, there's a lot on your site!  :-)  
<Oh yes... and much more to go>
Couple of quick questions (hopefully).  For my SW tanks, I use tap water (gasp!) mixed in a Rubbermaid container.  I am in the habit of doing 10% changes once or twice or weekly (40 reef, 50 FOWLR).  I have been immediately replacing the water taken with tap water (gasp!) adding a few drops (aprox 2mL) of AmQuel +(will switch to regular am-quel next time around), and then slowly adding in salt.  The water is constantly being aerated and there's a powerhead mixing up the solution.  The water usually is heated and stays around 75-80 degrees.  I'm a relative newby, but this seems to be working well and allows me to do frequent small changes.  My question is if the container constantly has SW in it, has a biological filter developed?
<Mmm, maybe a bit>
My tap water does have trace amounts of ammonia from the faucet, but it is undetectable in the Rubbermaid after AmQuel and storage (even overnight).  Is this because of dilution, bio-filtration, or the am-quel?
<Or out-gassing likely>
Would it be a good idea to put any amount of substrate in there for bio-filtration to build up, or would the widely varying chemicals and salinity wreak any chances of life?
<I would not change your protocol>
Getting rid of extra chemical additions would be nice.
    Next, I have been dosing Kalk overnight to maintain pH and keep my calcium and alkalinity up (in the reef only).  I have no troubles keeping calcium at 400-440, but the alkalinity has suffered.
<As it will with sole Kalk use...>
  When I started the tank, it was around 130ppm, now it's staying around 90.  I was wondering if there is something askew because I use tap water to make the Kalk, or if calcium might be elevating and precipitating out the alkalinity
<Bingo>
though I have seen no snowstorms and no precipitation is noticeable on my powerheads or the like.  I was wondering if it would be a good idea to drip a pH raising alk supplement (SeaChem reef buffer) nightly while monitoring until the levels fall more into balance and then switching back to Kalk.
<Yes. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm
and the linked files above>
Wes
ps--  I have to mention that every time I email you guys I have to resist asking a million more questions than the ones I planned.  Time for more reading!  hazah for WWM!  HAZAH!
<Heeeee! "Hey, I didn't get a huzzah out of that guy in the corner... Watch your sphincter!" (Mel Brooks', Blazing Saddles). BobF>

Sandstorm In Tank/Lack Of Info 4/4/07
Hello there fish Gods,
<No gods here.>
I have a 135 gallon salt water tank that is aprox 2 years old. 50 lbs LR, aragonite bottom,  Porc Puffer, Fox Face and a Coris Wrasse. The Porc and Foxface (Kai and Krueger) are inseparable, they even sleep together in the same cave. the Fox Face presses himself against the puffer and camouflages himself to look like him (so cute!).
I have a few snails, can't tell you how many as they do become midnight snacks for Kai the puffer. My problem is the amount of "dust" in the tank. I realize something is really munching my rock but I need to get rid of it. The tank, rock, hardware, coralline, heater is COVERED in dust.  I did see a looooong white ugly wormy thing about 3 inches long with a million legs about a month ago,
<What was the actual leg count?:)>
may be him?  There is the occasional clicking sound at night but have not seen any signs of a Mantis.
<Could be a Pistol Shrimp.>
If I do manage to get rid of the menace, any ideas on how I can get rid of the dusty film?
<Shirley, I would like to more on your maintenance practices such as water changes, vacuuming of sand bed, etc.  I can then assist you better.  James (Salty Dog)>

A Couple Problems... Algae ID/control, crustacean external fish parasite... Reading  2/18/07
Hey WWM Crew
I have just a couple of questions that involve a couple problems that are currently going on in my tank.
<Okay>
For one, I believe what I have growing on my aquarium glass and gravel is brown diatom algae. From the look of the pictures, I really think that is what I have.
<Very common... and not a worry>
Almost positive. Now, my tank has cycled a month ago, and I really only  barely noticed it on the gravel. Now, it is starting to really spread. It is not  serious, but sure will be unless I start cleaning it. It is mainly on the front  cover of the aquarium glass, and is slowly spreading across the front end of the tank.
<Almost always "cycles out" on its own in time...>
I wasn't sure how to get rid of it, I figured if I scrubbed it off, it  would spread, if I wiped it, it wouldn't easily come off, and if I used a  syphon, it wouldn't get any off.
<Mmm... not Diatoms...>
I am looking on how to get rid of this stuff. I  have about 6 snails, including 2 Margarite, 2 astrea, and 2 Turbos, along with 3  red leg hermits, 4 blue leg hermits, and 3 Nassarius snails. I have seen all of  the snails munching on it, but I don't feel as if these little guys can do such  a big job. Any suggestions or tips?
<Yep... Read... re algal ID, Control: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/maintenance/index.htm
scroll down...>
Second, I noticed a small organism hanging on my fish a few times. It was on my clown goby 1 in the center of the body, and another on the tail. It fell off,  and jumped right back on.
<A crustacean... was it summat like a "Pill bug?"... An isopod then...>
My goby has not had many signs of distress though, but  not sure what it did. Now it has hopped onto my Flame Angel,  sitting on the back fin just hanging on there. I am not sure whether to put  them into the Hospital tank or not, because I don't know what to treat them  with.
<See WWM re Isopods... I'd physically remove it/this...>
There is only 1 that I know off, and have not seen any crawling in the  tank or more than one on the fish.
<Mmm... if/when you read you'll understand a bit re these organisms life histories...>
I know it would be hard to identify w/o a  picture, but it is very difficult for me to get a good picture with the type of  camera i have, and the way my fish move. All I know is that it has black beady  eyes, and you can see inside of it. It looks almost like a fish fry. The  Flame Angel is not acting funny atm, but looking for quick advice.
<Search, read>
Third, there was the strangest looking thing hanging on my live rock. I had no idea what it was, but I sent a picture to fish geeks forums and nobody really said much. Now it has fallen off and I cannot find it anywhere in the tank. I figured that it broke apart, or the hitchhiker crab I have took it, since   every piece of food I drop in the tank he snatches, so he doesn't bother anyone,  and he hasn't yet. Unfortunately I cannot find my picture, and when you respond I  will easily send a picture back so you can identify what it was. I was  afraid it was an egg or some sort, or maybe even has to do with the parasite on  my fish.
<Not likely... but can only guess... vague descriptions yield vague speculation...>
If you can answer any of these it would be greatly appreciated, but I am   confident you guys can help me out, you have before.
From A Happy Hobbyist
Joe
<Read on Joe, read on. Bob Fenner>

Fungus/algae help needed. SW   2/13/07
Hello,
<Hi there Greg>
I have a 480 gallon swim only
<?>
with live rock saltwater tank.  I have looked all over the net to find out what is wrong with my tank.  There is an almost translucent jelly like fungus/algae growing in my tank on the live rock and covering the sand bed.
<Ahh... a mix of organisms... decomposers and algae most likely>
The tank has been up and running for around 6 months now so I am sure it is cycled but can not for the life of me figure it out.
It looks almost clear, a bit milky maybe.  Feels like a gelatin.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.
<Would be neat to look through a microscope or two... Is likely "natural" decomposition product/resultant... You can "speed up" its unfolding to other life forms... by increasing aeration/circulation... filtration... You do have a good skimmer I hope/trust... what do your water quality tests tell you? Have you read on WWM re? I would. Bob Fenner>

Re: fungus/algae help needed. SW maint.  Just needs to search, read...  2/14/07
I have 2 giant octo
<? Not familiar...>
skimmers in sump on the system, all parameters are great.
<Subjective evaluations are of no use... numbers, values please>
I cannot seem to keep any snails or inverts alive in the tank but the fish are healthy.
<... something amiss with the environment...>
  I thought maybe some ammonia or nitrate or even phosphate problem but they all test at 0.  Perhaps a small electrical current getting
into the tank?
<Please... follow instructions instead of writing us... read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/toxictk.htm
and here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/snaildisfaqs.htm
and the linked files above... Bob Fenner>

Algae ID Question 2/1/07
Hello,
<Hello Jason>
About 3 days ago, I noticed one piece of live rock in my aquarium had a opaque white coating algae I suppose)
spreading over a portion of it, the portion has been spreading very slowly (still about the same size).
<May not be algae at all, possibly coralline growth.  A pic would help.>
Also, my maroon and gold clown fish has some similar "stuff" on his underside and the edges of his fins are a little bit tattered.  I have been dosing SeaChem Stress Guard to see if it would help, but it hasn't shown any sign of doing so.  Also, I am not sure if it would have made all of this occur, but I was in the process of transitioning from tap water to distilled.
More or less when this began, and it all kind of popped up overnight.
<Don't think so.  Is your newly mixed seawater clear when you change water?>
Also, the clown shows his normal activity level, still interacting normally with the purple tip sebae.  Any advice you could give me would be highly appreciated.  Also, my Nitrates had been let get out of hand were ~160ppm,
<Howsie wowsie!  I hope this reading is total nitrogen and not NH+4>
they are no down to ~60-80ppm after 1 water change with distilled water and daily top off (I use SeaChem Reef Trace, on a side note, what size dose should I use for 1 gallon of water?
Bottle says 5mL per 20 gallons twice week, I top off daily very close to 3/4 gallon I also buffer pH, Alk, and Ca).
<You should treat the entire tank, not the top off water.> <<RMF would NOT do this... better to make such changes, as always, through gradually changing water through change outs>>
Please tell me what I am doing wrong, as I have another water change planned,
<Planned?  I suggest on a regular basis 10% at least every two weeks.>
and if there was something I was doing wrong, my guess would be with the water.
<My guess is not enough maintenance/water changes.>
I doubt it matters but I use Reef Crystals as my salt, and have a recently (about 2 weeks, maybe 3) set up sump-refugium with Chaeto and miracle mud.
<This will help much in lowering the nitrates.>
I also run a mechanical filter with a polypad, super activated carbon, and Purigen.
<Overkill, stick with one product.  I'm a fan of Chemi-Pure.>
And of course, a skimmer (CPR hang on).
<You didn't mention the size of your tank.  The CPR may not be enough
skimmer if you have a large tank.>
Sorry for the long rambling message.
Thanks again,
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Jason

Clear Slime in New Tank 10/24/06
Hello,
<Howdy>
I have been reading the postings on your site a lot lately and I really have found a lot of useful information.  Thank-You.
<Welcome>
For my current concern I have seen a few items that appeared at first to be close but nothing that really matches what I am seeing.
I have an AGA 92 gallon Corner pre-drilled with a MegaFlow Model 3 sump filter and a mag-drive 9.5 pump, Coralife Super Skimmer 220, 40 watts of 8000K light over the sump (at night), a 96 watt 36 inch and 65 watt 24 inch light(s) elevated 4 inches above the tank (during the day)  {one hour of overlap in the morning and at night}.
This tank has only been setup for 3 days.  80 lbs of dead sand and 20 lbs of live sand,
<Mmm, would have held off on the LS for a few weeks>
30 lbs of dead rock and 10 lbs of live rock (cured at the LFS - no visible coral and no visible live stock) in the tank.  Few small pieces of live rock in the sump (probably less the 1/2 lb. I plan to add purchased algae once the tank is more established.
<Good>
Live rock and live sand added about four hours after the tank was setup (temp 78 and salinity 1.021).
<Mmmmm further... would have waited on the LR as well... and would raise your spg to 1.025.>
Depending on which advise
<advice>
you take I could have been early or right on time but I have four damsels in the tank (after setup for 36 hours so they have been there for about 36 hours).
<.... more Mmmms and waiting>
Water parameters have been as follows, which I wouldn't think are too surprising for a new tank.
After one day:
Ammonia  1.0
Nitrite  .25
Nitrate 0
PH 8.2
Salinity 1.021
Temp 78
After two days:
Ammonia .5 (+)
Nitrite 0 (+)
Salinity 1.021
Temp 80
After two and a half days:  (I recorded this test as I thought the second reading seemed strange this early and because of my main concern below.)
Ammonia 1.0
Nitrite .25
Salinity 1.021
Temp 82 (This is what prompted me to move my lights to four inches above the tank.)
I am still trying to get my temp to settle at about 78 but this morning it is at 82 (obviously too high but that is part of why we wait a while to put any valuable fish in the tank).
<... do research before buying... patience...>
I have moved the lights from right on top the glass to four inches above, completely shut the heater off, and left the glass cover-door open My room is about 68 degrees.  The 9.5 pump is suppose to use 93 watts and the skimmer's pump about 32 watts (if I read correctly).
<Mmmm, not all converted to "waste" heat...>
I didn't think that I would have heat problems with almost 115 gallons of total water volume, but I guess I am still learning.
<You're in good company here>
This morning I noticed a fair amount (two patches totaling about 8 to 10 square inches) of clear slime (about 1/4 of an inch thick) on the under side of my dead rock (live rock is setting on top of this dead rock).  Before I even researched my reaction (I still don't know if it was right or wrong) was to remove this slime (it felt much like a jelly fish but this was obviously not what it was - just trying to be descriptive).  Now I am wondering what this might have been and if it is anything to be concerned about?
<Mmm, nope... likely bacterial, fungal mix... no need to react>
The four fish seem to be doing fine.  (Again, they are just there to cycle the tank.)
<And possibly infest it with parasites...>
No algae (that is noticeable) growing anywhere (nor would I expect it yet).
<A few more days, couple weeks...>
I have read about some corals releasing a clear slime if they are stressed but I don't have any corals and this slime was on the bottom of the dead rock. (But, not the part that is actually touching the sand.)
I have read about some speculation that there my be a clear slime algae but it seems too early for really any algae.
The fish do not have any noticeable slime on them.
Could this be a build up of some kind of bacteria this fast and with the water pattern seen above?
<Yep>
In the past 12 years I have cycle one other large saltwater tank and one large freshwater tank and I don't recall having ever seen a substance such as this growing in either of those tanks (ever).  But, they were both without sumps and were setup with under gravel filters, which were still very popular at the time.  And, neither of them had any live or dead rock, which of course the freshwater wouldn't have had.
Again, I would really like to thank-you for any help you might be able to provide and for you site in general.
James Wilson
Louisville, KY
<No need to do anything other than be calm, careful re feeding at present. Bob Fenner>

Fish Not Growing 9/23/06
Hi,
<Hello Krystal>
I have had a 120 gal SW tank for a little over a year now.  I am currently running a wet/dry filter system with a 1200 gal/hr main pump, a Euro Reef RS100 skimmer, a Arctica chiller and a 10 gal refugium that I built myself.  I have a female Watanabei angel, a Halfback Mimic Tang, a pair of Percula Clowns, and an Orange peel Dottyback.  All have been in the tank for over a year except the angel who was introduced in December of 2005.  My question is, that none of my fish have grown at all.  I do weekly 15% water changes with RO water and my parameters are good. 0 ppm ammonia, 0 ppm nitrite, 0 ppm nitrate, ph around 8.2, and KH between 8-10.  The fish are fed at least once a day, most of the time more and a little algae in the tank to munch on in the mean time.  I was wondering if you could shed some light on why they are the same size as the day I bought them.
<I'm sure they are growing, you just do not notice growth on a day to day basis.  I suffer from the same syndrome.  Friends of mine that haven't been over in a month or so, will often say, "Boy that False Lemonpeel has sure gotten big."  And to me, it seems he hasn't grown at all.  Feeding good quality frozen foods and adding a vitamin supplement such as Selcon's, will help speed up the growth
process.  James (Salty Dog)>

Of Cats and Fish 8/23/06
Hey Guys
<Hi>
I have 4 cats and as anyone that has had cats knows that cat hair is everywhere and as it seems also to be in my fish tank! <Yep, I've even found whole cats in mine before, that did not go well.> Now I mean it is not a lot but enough to notice and I mean it is everywhere! <Not sure I understand, a few strands here and there are no big deal, if you have hair balls in your tank, that is a problem.>  I make sure to keep the water that I am adding to the tank during water changes up high or away from the cats but when I go to put it there is a layer of cat hair on the top of the water! (ITS IN THE DAMN AIR lol) <Need to get the container covered, preferably with a loose fitting top so there is still O2 exchange.> But I was wondering can this cat hair be harmful to my fish(10 gallon, 3 bronze Corys, 2 skirt tetras)? <Can be, is biological material and does add to the bioload/nitrogen cycle of the tank.> I mean I think it won't and after a while it ether gets sucked through the filter or settles to the bottom, but still I would just like to make sure!!
THANKS
P.S. ......is my tank overstocked......(I am new to this)
<It all depends on how much is in there. Keeping it all out is impossible, but limiting the amount is important.  Also, hair can be tough on equipment, jamming up the pumps and shortening the equipment's lifespan.  Best to cover everything as much as possible.>
<Your stocking level seems fine, but I would not add any more fish.  Also, in future correspondence please spell check your message before sending, it takes too much time to correct before posting.>
<Chris>

Cyanobacteria/Control  - 08/15/06
Hi crew,
<Hello Mohamed>
I have a problem with brown slime algae.
My nutrients are low.
Nitrate 0
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Phosphate 0.05
DI water used only for top off. TDS reading 2.
Magnesium 1190, busy getting it higher
Calcium 440
KH 7
Temperature from 26 to 27,5 degrees in a day.
I do get a bit of sunlight on the tank.
What are the possible cause and solutions, please?
<Read here and above links.  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm
James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks
Mohamed.

Maintenance/Stocking  - 07/30/06
I was wondering if you could give me some feed back regarding my current saltwater set up/maintenance routine.  I think I've got it set up pretty well thanks to all of your advise and, I have done  some changes in the stocking to align with your recommendations.  Here is what I have.  55 Gallon tank with canister filter that has a gph of 200. Every Sunday I do a 10% water change with Catalina Water
<What is Catalina water?> <<Is a natural seawater supply company located in California RMF>>
and clean the filter. During the weekly cleaning, I change 1 of the 3 different medias in the canister (Sponge, Floss, Carbon). I have three power heads that turn 175 Gallons each one on both sides facing each other cutting the surface of the water and one in the middle cutting the service of the water as well.  I have a Prizm Skimmer that I clean weekly and spend about an hour adjusting after each time I empty the collection cup ( I will be getting an Aqua C Remora when Funds allow).
<Will be a worthy improvement>
During the weekly change I add Iodine and buffer. There is about 50lbs of rock and several fake corals etc.  The water is testing zero for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. The temp is 78.5 and the sg is 1.023.
The current critters are as follows: 3 Chromis,2 Tank raised Perc. Clown, 1 Royal Gramma, 1 Six Lined Wrasse, 1 Coral Beauty, 1 Coral Banded Shrimp and various snails and hermits.  The lights are timed to go on from 9-9 I feed Spirulina flakes in the morning at 7:00 with just the room lighting on, I also add 3 Clips of Seaweed Salad
<Going overboard here with three clips, one is plenty.>
throughout the tank that are removed at 4:30 Pm. At 4:30 its frozen time and I rotate between Brine Shrimp, Formula 2, and Emerald Entree.  
<Watch the amounts you feed, feed only what they will eat.  Start with small amounts and only add more if the eating
frenzy is there.>
At 8:00 I feed Spirulina flakes again and some Marine Gro or Ora Glo ( Royal Gramma's Favorite).  Because of the CBS I have decided not to get Cleaner Shrimp and was wondering if I could add a Cleaner Goby or 2?  I also want 1 Banggai Cardinal but am not sure if this would be pushing my luck.
<You are close to your limit now.  Let well enough alone, give the tank time to season would not add any more fish.>  I have done a lot of work and still due to have this awesome tank and would not do anything to hurt my current fish.  Thank you so much for the feed back and please let me know about the Goby/Cardinal and if you would change
anything with the set up/feeding/maintenance.
<Read here and related links on maintenance.  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/maintenance/marineMaint.htm
Thank you so much for all of the help you give and the money you save.
<I don't save any money, broke, but thank you the same.  James (Salty Dog)>

Many Thanks from a SW beginner !   7/24/06
No questions here just typing a quick thanks to the crew. I’ve learned more in a couple of weeks of reading WWM posts than I have in all of my previous trips to the LFS. I have not had any issues escalate to problems with my 29g marine tank since finding this site   Future plans include turning the 29 into a sump for the (for now) stand-less and lightless 55 along with the purchase of a few more inverts (shrimps , clams and hopefully corals) . I love the site !! Keep up the good work.
<<Well thanks, I like it too :).>>
Tank setup (for cut & paste purposes later on)
Hardware:
dbl bulb N/O fluorescent w/ 1 50/50 and 1 actinic bulb, 35 lbs of LR, plenum, 2" of coarse aragonite, 3 " of Seaflor reef sand, SeaClone 100 skimmer, & HOT Magnum filter.
<<You should really look to upgrade your SeaClown’ skimmer.>>
Livestock:
Black Clown, Orange Clown (My reading suggests true perc, no behavioral problems thus far), scooter blenny, 4 bumble bee gobies (drip acclimated over 3 days to 1.021) ,6 - 8 red legged plus 1 scarlet hermit crab, peppermint shrimp, a dozen assorted snails ( my next bit of reading will involve gastropod identification) manageable amounts of nuisance algae and roughly 35-40% LR coverage of various coralline algae types.
<<Are you culturing ‘pods for your dragonet?>>
Supplementation:
regular applications of SeaChem pH 8.3 marine buffer, reef complete, reef builder, reef advantage calcium. Weekly 15% water changes and trips to LFS for the use of their free water testing .
<<You should invest in your own kits.  Why all the buffer?>>
Feeding:
1 to 2g /day of enriched froze brine shrimp.
<<Brine shrimp, especially frozen, is junk nutritionally.  I’m glad you love the site.  Keep coming! Lisa.>>>>

CA: how much is too much article    7/20/06
Bob or whoever
<Howdy>
Just wanted to say how much I enjoyed the recent article "putting on the brakes how much is too much". Gee the pendulum is swinging back?
<In constant motion... sometimes a bit more oscillation than others>
When I first started back in 76 I had many many problems until I read Robert Gasser's 1979  
article "some old (or are they new) thoughts on aquarium keeping" FAMA (or something like that LOL) basically Leiden aquarium techniques. Tried it it  worked
and I never looked back.
<Ah, yes>
I went through a similar process in 2002 when starting my current 55g mixed reef. Finally (again) settled down on much the same techniques yet am
constantly  flamed and told how wrong I am.
<Heeee! A thick skin can help... a prudent mind even more>
Yet we have a local here who has a giant clam and SPS corals in a 75g with  3 4' 2 tube shop lights.
<Can be done>
I have had fish, soft corals in my 55g for over three years using  4 2 tube shop lights, silica play sand, silica and lava landscape rocks, an in  tank
refugium, filtering the water with 5x water flow through crushed oyster shells, tap water, no water changes, no heater or chiller (the tank is in an air  
conditioned room), no skimmer or any filtering other than the oyster shells and plant life (macros and coralline).
Fish include a yellow and blue regal tangs, two clowns, purple Pseudochromis, Banggai cardinal, yellow watchman goby, and coral catfish.  Clowns are
2",tangs , cardinal and purple Pseudochromis 4", coral catfish is  6-7" According to various message board you would get the impression I am doing  
many things "wrong". Yet things are thriving. I attribute that to the in tank refugia with heavy macro algaes. For instance, my tap water is reported to
have  30ppm phosphates
<Yeeikes! Dangerous to drink>
and I have measured it at 5ppm the max of the test kit. Yet nitrates and phosphates are immeasurable with the aquarium pHarm**** test kits.
<No wonder Al, Joel and co. sold! Those lucky pugs!>
Calcium basically stays at 400ppm and alk at 6 dKH. I do buffer the  alk up to 9dkh with baking soda. And, if I get carried away with the baking soda,  
I do have to bump calcium back up with calcium chloride.
<Good>
Mag is in the 1200ppm  range with no buffering.
Over the past 4 years I have noticed that macros in refugium have made a come back with less emphasis on DSBs. But then that does not surprise me.   I
went through a similar experience back in 79.
<Me too>
Glad to see an article like the one you posted. I feel newbies would have much better with Fw and marine aquariums if more such articles were available.
<Agreed>
IMHO simply balancing out the aquarium with plant life right from the start is the key to success. Everything else is secondary to that basic  fact.
Bob Beasley.
<Thank you for proffering your input. Bob Fenner>

Re: CA: how much is too much article  07/21/06
Bob (or whoever)
<Bob>
Would help if I got the email address right. LOL
Bob
Bob (or whoever)
Thanks for the reply and excellent as usual.
Would not bother ya again but my ignorance makes me ask: reference:
"and I have measured it at 5ppm the max of the test kit. Yet
nitrates and phosphates are immeasurable with the aquarium pHarm**** test kits.
<No wonder Al and co. sold! Those lucky pugs!>"
I am confused?  Inside joke?  Who is Al and Co (aquarium pHarm****)
<Al Abrevaya and partner Joel were the old owners/friends of AP...>
Or did you mean their test kits should have measured something.  
Woops I meant unmeasurable not immesurable. Gee that is a big difference. LOL.
Bob  
<I understood you to mean the former. Cheers! BobF>

Algae & copepods, mar. maint.   7/16/06
Dear Mr. Bob Fenner
<Rachel>
How are you? Hope everything is fine there. I have a slight problem in my tank at the moment. Everything went smooth for about 3 - 4 months now but suddenly my algae on the back and side walls of my tank disappeared due to no particular reason and there is a huge growth of copepods population in my tank. I see my Butterflies and my tang eating them now but there is a lot of growth. My green and brown algae have disappeared from walls which I never clean. I only clean my front glass and also my skimmer doesn’t pick anything up lately. It’s working fine but the collection of dirty water is almost nothing. This whole thing was a gradual but quick process. I recently checked my water parameters my ammonia is undetectable and nitrite also is undetectable but I didn’t check for nitrate as my kit is expired and also my pH seems to be higher
<Numbers please... not subjective commentary>
as I use 4 teaspoons of Sodium Bicarbonate every other week to maintain my pH but because of the higher pH value
<Won't raise beyond about 7.8...>
I stopped doing this for just about a week now. But I do a 25% percent water change every month and my fish seems to be doing alright and they eat fine. My tank is an 80G tank with a lot of live rock, one 4” Klunzinger's Wrasse,
<A neat species>
one 3.5” Bannerfish, one 3” Auriga Butterfly and one 3.5”, Hippo blue tang.  I am worried about this situation. Do you think it’s because of the higher pH value my Algae died?
<Possibly related>
Or is there any other reason for this algae death, copepods population growth and the change in my skimmer’s collectables? Please help me. Thanks, best regards,
<Mmm, in a word "succession"... changes in chemical make-up, availability of some/less nutrients, population growth of predators, competitors... not necessarily a problem... Such changes/succession are a universal characteristic of captive systems. Bob Fenner>
Rachel

Becoming a discouraged fishtank owner... New type of hobbyist? Further introspections into the nature of the truth... scarce can I name salvation but fearful thunder echoes in mine ears  7/10/06
Hello Crew,
<Christy>
It seems like I read and read and read all day long about marine tanks, but still I fail. Everyone gives me such different advice. I just don't know what to do anymore.
<... Mmmm, study... from the general to specifics... determine what are facts from "opinions, advice" (a difference modern media are rapidly losing)... Understanding the science, underlying principles will enable you to go forward with clarity, confidence>
I've had my 25 gallon saltwater tank for about 4 months now. Its a marineland eclipse
<Proper nouns...>
with 36watts of actinic lighting.
<A small system... mis-lighted. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/actinicfaqs.htm>
30 lbs of liverock. About 1.5 inches of sand. For the first 4 months, with all of my reading, I did not know that you're supposed to pre-mix the water 48 hours
in advance. For the past two weeks I've been premixing the water now. I do water changes once a week, syphoning the sand very well. Last week I tested
the water and the ammonia was about 0.25mg/l nitrite 0 and nitrate 20. I'm now switching to 10% water changes twice a week. I feed the fish once a day,
alternating between brine shrimp and bloodworms,
<... what are you feeding here. What livestock?>
soaked in garlic elixir supplement.
<Just like in the wild...>
I also did not understand until recently the importance of keeping the Ph at 8.3, it had been 8.0 up until a week ago. I'm now adding a buffer more regularly,
<Mmm... 8.0 is not a problem... how you may be adding the buffer is>
and checking the Ph everyday. After cycling, my first fish, a royal Gramma, he died of starvation.
<Not surprising, given the food items listed...>
I then purchased a black and gold damsel and two blue green Chromises. I was told they would get along, but they did not. Both Chromises died after about a month. About three weeks ago I purchased a cleaner shrimp who is doing great! He has shed three times
<Too much stress...>
already, and has gotten huge. I gave away the damsel because he was too aggressive. I then bought a few purple mushrooms which seem to be doing
well. I then brought home a pair of Percula clowns. The female did not do well from the start, and died about a week later, from I believe
Brooklynellosis. Now the male clown doesn't seem so well. He acts healthy and eats a ton.. but he has weird marks on him, looking similar to how his dead
wife looked in the beginning. Sorry for the load of information, but I just don't know where to go from here.
<Mmm, "back to square one"... You could really use a "guru", unless you're quite given to learning through reading...>
I want a colorful tank and to eventually upgrade my lighting and be able to have hard and soft corals.
<Mmm, your tank is too small...>
I would like a small orange Linckia seastar,
<Way too small for this>
a green clown goby, and a small hippo tang.
<And this>
I don't know where to start. Should I keep adding invertebrates like more mushrooms and feather dusters? Or should I just stick with trying to keep a
fish even though they all keep dying? What colorful reef safe fish do you recommend in a 25 gallon that will be hardy?
<... Get thee to a local marine hobby club... join, visit with other hobbyists, go on "tank tours" visiting their homes... read one or three good, complete marine aquarium books. Your haphazard, "listening to everyone" approach, buying things and tossing them in will not work. Immerse yourself in a systematic manner here, or go on to another interest. Really. Bob Fenner>

Mar. maint. mostly... few questions    7/1/06
Bob - I read your book and found it to be very helpful in getting me started in the right direction.  I have also spent many hours on the website and find it very valuable.  You and the crew at wetwebmedia are providing a wonderful service and it is greatly appreciated.  I am new to saltwater tanks and have a couple of questions for you regarding my new set-up.  I have a 90g tank with one overflow,
<Two would be better... am sure we agree>
180lbs of live rock, & DSB of aragonite.  I installed 4 x 96W PC lights (two 96 watt Dual Daylight 6,700k/10,000k and two 96 watt Dual Actinic 420nm/460nm.  I have a 30 gallon sump with an Aqua C EV180 skimmer, and  a 500gph mag-drive return pump.  3 MaxiJet 600 powerheads are in the main tank.  I intend to stock the tank with a couple of  fish (clown pair, hippo tang), 2 cleaner shrimp, snails, and hermit crabs. In addition, I hope to keep some LPS corals, mushrooms, and leathers.  With this set-up do you think I have adequate water circulation?
<Likely so... could be increased>
Should I switch one of my actinic lamps to another 6700/10,000k lamp?
<I would, yes>
On another matter, my house uses well water.  I tested the water and found it to have about 10ppm of nitrates,
<Yeeikes... I hope/trust you're not drinking, cooking with this>
so no surprise my tank is also testing the same.  I am considering the need for a RO unit, but don't want to spend the money if the nitrates are low enough not to be problematic.
<They are a health issue for you, your captive aquatics>
My tank just got done cycling and now it seems to be (hopefully) finishing an algae bloom (diatoms).  I tested the water for phosphates and it was 0.  Again, thank you and your crew for being of such great assistance!
Dan.
<Mmm, welcome. Phosphates like the popular label "terrorists" are a fluid measure... likely your present algae are taking up what is available... Bob Fenner>

First Salt Water tank... for sure    6/14/06
Hi,
I am in hopes of guidance because after someone recommended your website I was amazed of all the answers... too many.
<Not possible... they are indexed, there is a competent search tool...>
My problem is that I decided I finally wanted to start my first salt water tank and the Local Pet Shop recommended for ease to start with a Reef and
add fish as I go along. SO that is what I am trying to do.  I truly love the look and am sure I will love the hobby.  Part of the problem is that I went
into this not realizing that this would be such a money pit.
I shopped and shopped and now have the following set up.
* 145 gal Acrylic Cube type Aquarium 36" wide x 30" deep by 30" high.
<Very tall... hard to light, get your arms (hope they're long) into...>
o The tank is plumbed underneath the back overflow inside the tank
<?>
* 30 gal sump (no filtration or internal walls, simply a tank
* ASM G2 Skimmer
* 150lbs of Live Rock
* 100lbs of Live Sand
* Gen-X PCX 40 Pump
* Tunze Stream 6060 Pump
* 250w Pendant Metal Halide
* SCWD current switching device
* Kent Marine Aquadoser 5: Float switch and auto-refill
* Rio 2500 powerhead pump
* UV Sterilizer (not sure of make or model)
The main problem is that I got 100 different directions.  Since I am a total rookie, I wanted first to master the easy way to do the reef and then play with it as the previous owner did.
<No shortcuts here... you need to learn what you're doing...>
I had a guy come out to set up my tank for me (Recommended by the Local Pet Shop) The guys told me that I had no filtration going on so he recommended that I put bio-balls in my over-flow. He hooked up my UV sterilizer and I put in about 200 bio-balls in the over-flow (didn't make a dent).
The guys that sold me the tae told me that I shouldn't use a UV Sterilizer or the bio-balls.  The guy that sold me the Skimmer told me to use the UV sterilizer.
I am totally doomed!
<I wouldn't go that/this far>
I picked up a book (Natural Reef Aquariums, Tullock)
<Know John well>
and it just provides a lot of suggestions but not for my particular case.
Can you help?  If I don't do the bio-balls what filtration am I using?
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm See the blue file names? These are links... read the ones on filtration>
If I don't use the UV Sterilizer am I more likely to get sick fish?
<Whether or not... see WWM re UVs...>
  I thought the UV sterilizer was an easy answer to a possible complicated problem.
<Is a useful tool, not a cure-all by any means>
Needing help.  BTW, how do I become a member?
<We don't do/have memberships... by participating, reading, writing... you are>
Michael Grose
<Take all this a bit at a time Michael... not hard, but involved... can, will become engrossing, but needs your giving/taking. Bob Fenner>

Re: High Nitrates in a Fishless Tank  6/5/06... barnacles, alkalinity, sw maint.
Lisa,
<Mmm, Bob this time>
Back again.  It has been a while, I wanted to test the water and just watch and wait to see if I could get it together.  
<Okay>
The water I have been changing faithfully once a week between 5-7 gallons in a 55 gallon tank and a 29 gallon tank.  
<Sounds about right>
The 55 gal. has no fish still, just the live rock and inverts which seem to be doing very well.  The Caulerpa is thriving as well as all the inverts.  The sponge is growing and the feather dusters are fine.  We do seem to have a lot of barnacles.  Is there such thing as too much?
<Mmm, can be... Cirripedians can be pests/parasites to fishes as larvae...>
I just do not like. Going on 12 weeks now after losing all fish... The Nitrates were high and now seem to be stable at 20 ppm (tap water registers 10ppm)  We do not see a lot of waste in the media of the Fluval.
<Canister filters can be problematical... transient pollution sources>
     Ammonia sometimes shows 0 and sometimes goes up to .25  The nitrites are always 0.  The PH is what really fluctuates.  The last check was between 7.8-8.0   It always seems to drop.
<A lack of buffering, restoring chemical make-up... Alkaline reserve>
  I am checking the PH on the new water that I am changing out as it is low and actually raise it high to balance out the low PH of the tank.
<Good... but need to check the alkalinity, not simply pH>
What other suggestions could you recommend.  I am leery of starting over until certain all the water issues are corrected.     
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marphalk.htm
and the linked files above>
The 29 gal.  has live rock and 2 damsels.  The water registers 80ppm nitrates,
<Way too high>
  0 nitrites, 0-.25 ammonia and Ph also fluctuates low in this tank as well.  Any help is greatly appreciated.
Sandy
<... please learn to/use the indices, search tool on WWM... A link/beginning to nitrates: http://wetwebmedia.com/nitratesmar.htm
Bob Fenner>

Sandbed maintenance 5/14/06
Hey guys,
<Hello>
I just want to say thank you for all the problems you have helped me solve in the past. I have noticed that my sand bed is disappearing. I have a 55 gallon and I bought 3 20lbs water packed AragAlive Bahamas oolite to start off. My tank is about 1 yr and half old and now my sand is starting to diminish.
<Common occurrence, dissolves over time, helps buffer the water.>
If I need to add more sand I would like to get the finest due to the natural look of the ocean bed I love and my sand sifting creatures. <ok>  Would I have to get the water packed Arag alive or can I buy the dry packed sugar sized sand?
<The water packed stuff is no better than the dry in my opinion.>  How much should I add at a time and will this screw up my ecosystem happening on the sandbed?
<Add a cup or two a week, this allows sand bed creatures to migrate to the top without getting smothered.>
Thanks
Joe
<Anytime>
<Chris>

Something about BGA, green algae, marine aquarium?  - 05/13/2006
tank 3 weeks old now covered in green hairy type stuff, gradually being taken over by black slimy stuff (all on live rock ) am a newly obviously ! the wife says scrub the rocks clean what do you think? just added 2 clown fish all doing well apart from assetics
thanks
t
<Is this English? Are you a non-native speaker/writer? Have someone look over your mail before sending... Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/algaeasfriend.htm and the linked files at top...
Bob Fenner>

Brown algae   4/30/06
Dear WWM Crew:
<Yo!>
I have a two year old reef tank/mud refugium system.  Four weeks ago, I went on vacation for about a week and left the tank in another's care.  
Since our return, there has been increasing proliferation of brown algae - previously we had none visible.  All tank specs are in order
save for nitrite level at 0.2 mg/l.  Any suggestions on how to deal with the algae?
<Sure: http://wetwebmedia.com/avoidingalgaeproblesm.htm
and the linked files above>
Separately, I have been told that the mud in the refugium should be replaced every couple of years save for a small amount off the original
mud that was in the tank - do you share this view?
<Yep, posted>
Is it possible that the bacteria levels in my tank are low resulting in problem above?
<... not likely>
Finally, I have trie