Metal halide fixtures  9/29/08
Maybe I overlooked it, as well as undereducated in some aspects, but can metal halide ballasts and hoods made for growing plants indoors (hydroponic farms) be used with different bulbs over aquariums?
<Mmm, with some provisos, yes...>
The reason I ask is that I have come across a place where I can get some 400w metal halide ballasts and hoods for a ridiculously cheap price.
<Well... can you really use such high energy use, waste heat producing units?>
I don't have any experience with metal halide systems, but am researching them for my new 150g
<Mmm, not likely a good idea here... too high wattage for this size, depth... more downsides than use... I would stick with 250 Watt or less units>
reef tank that I have and am still in the process of setting up - my 3rd reef tank. Are there specific bulb sizes I should make sure the ballasts accept?
<Oh yes...>
Thanks for any insight.
<Mmm... and issues re water- and splash-proofing... the long and short of this, by and large I would use only "aquarium intended fixtures". Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
the last couple of trays. Bob Fenner>

Using Metal Halides 1/24/08
I just purchased an 48" Outer Orbit 2 150 watt 10 K HQI-MH w 2 130 watt 6 Lunar lights. I have a 90 gallon 24" deep aquarium. I had a nova extreme t-5 54 watt x 8. I didn't have very good luck with it staying on after about 6 months.
<Not good.>
I have my tank stocked with some fish and a few corals which consist of a torch coral, a colt coral, a toadstool and some mushrooms. I
have it hanging 6" above my tank right now. Is that enough or should I raise it more and to what height?
<Sounds like a good distance, you can always raise it a bit if you have temperature issues.>
I would like to start raising a clam or two and some more stony corals.
<Will be fine, I would try to place the clams (especially Maximas or Croceas) in the upper half of the tank.>
Thanks for your help crew, Bob L.
<Welcome, happy reefing, Scott V.>

MH lighting for a 125gal 6' long tank 11/5/07
Dear WWM crew,
First of all thanks for your continued excellent support for the reef keeping community. Keep up the good work.
<Thank you Isaac.>
Now onto my question, I'm moving from a 37gal FOWLR tank to a 125gal reef, that is a 6 foot long tank. I will be keeping mostly LPS corals
and clams. Don't know if I want to keep SPS, most likely not.
Now comes my lighting dilemma. Since the tank has a big ugly brace right smack in the middle, if I get 3x 175W MH lights will the middle light be
blocked out and mostly wasted?
<The light is still very usable, although not quite as intense. You will need to clean the center brace periodically, it will make a big difference in light penetration.>
(I'm not interested in designing and making my own hood, so I will only get pre-made ones.) The other option is I could get 2x 250W (in pendants, possibly going with PFO), but obviously this will exceed the commonly suggested 2 feet of linear tank length per MH bulb.
<I have seen this done with this particular sized tank. It works, but you will have to stock the tank accordingly considering that the center will have noticeably less light. Just depends on the look you are after.>
For the animals I want to keep, is this going to be sufficient, not enough PAR or even overkill (is even 2x 175W enough?).
Besides tank inhabitant health and growth, what about aesthetics? Will the 2x MH lights create too much lapse?
<It really depends on your personal taste. If you want the tank to look uniform I would go with the 3 X 175W. This will be plenty if stock you clams in the upper half of the tank.>
P.S. Color temp will be in the
10k-13k range.
Thanks,
Isaac
<Happy reefing, Scott V.>

SW Lighting, reading re MHs  - 7/23/07
Dear WWM crew members,
<Pedro>
I appreciate all of your wonderful support and knowledge. I have a question on metal halide lighting for a 90 gal reef tank. If I wanted to keep SPS such as acropora spp. would a 2x250watt 14k MH fixture 8"-9" from the surface be too intense for the coral if placed in the upper half of the tank?
<Mmm, nope>
Or knowing that the lighting fixture would be 8"-9" above the surface of the tank, would I be better off having a 2x150watt MH?
<Depends... you could "match" other aspects of husbandry to the higher wattage fixtures... but if you "had time", weren't interested in boosting metabolism... You could get by easily with the 150's>
If I had a 2x150w metal halide fixture about 8-9 inches from the surface, would I still be able to place corals anywhere in my tank? Please notify me ASAP. It would be helpful if you guys/gals could tell me which is better, 2x150w or 2x250w for SPS and other corals.
Peter
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
the tray at the bottom. Bob Fenner>

Interchangeability Of Components Of Coralife Aqualight Fixtures – 07/19/07
I'm setting out on a new adventure... a 180gal reef tank.
<<Cool!>>
It will replace my 55-gal reef tank (all residents will eventually be transplanted to the new, larger tank). I've worked out all the details, pricing, etc... except for one thing. I have an opportunity to get a great deal (less than half price) on a Coralife Aqualight Pro.
<<I see>>
It's the 72" fixture with three 150W 10K's.
<<Should do nicely>>
The tank will have these residents:
Galaxea
Pagoda Cup
T. Crocea
T. Derasa
There are several others, but these are the ones in need of the most light by far.
<<Okay>>
Also, they would be kept high in the tank (except the T. Derasa clam, he likes his sand).
<<Indeed>>
Questions:
1) Will three 150W 10K's be enough? (My math says no since that's only 2.5Wper gal).
<<The “watts per gallon” logic for determining lighting requirements is really a very poor method in my opinion. There are so many factors that determine “what is adequate”...e.g. water depth, water clarity, requirements of the individual organisms, color temperature, feeding, etc. If you were planning to keep shallow water Acroporids I would suggest more wattage; and even then not because the corals couldn’t live under your planned configuration, but because I think they would “color” better under the higher wattage lamps. But with what you have listed, the 150W lamps w/10,000K bulbs will be fine>>
2) If I take the two ballasts and bulbs from my current tank's Coralife Aqualight Pro (48" fixture with two 250W 10K's and ballasts to match), could I replace two of the 150W ballasts/bulbs with the 250W ballasts/bulbs?
<<You could...but you will also have to change out the bulb brackets/holders as these for the differing wattages are not compatible/interchangeable>>
Are the internal components of the fixtures compatible or would I burn something out?
<<Being from the same manufacturer it is highly likely they are virtually identical on the inside but for the ballasts/bulbs/brackets>>
3) If what I discussed in question 2 is a possibility, would the resulting 650W total be enough for these residents (3.6W per gal)?
<<More than, yes>>
If not, what should I shoot for? Any brand/model recommendations?
<<I think you are fine with the 72” fixture mentioned>>
Thanks so much!
~Eric
<<Happy to assist. EricR>>

Re: pix of the day, magma MH use  – 06/11/07
Very true, it does change weekly. I don’t dare to venture into the possibilities of next month. Off the top of your head, do you think 2 400w MH and 2 110w VHO actinics are too much for a 75 gallon?
<Yikes! Too hot (temp. and electrical cost) for me...>
I am wondering if I might be better off with what I already have.
<For now... BobF>

MH Lighting Choices - 3/27/07
Hi there, You guys are the best.
<Thank you for this, my friend. JustinN with you today.>
I have a 125 gallon reef ready system.  Live sand, Live rock.  Right now I just have a goby, cleaner shrimp, and tomato clown.  I am wanting to get into inverts, and corals.
I need a stronger lighting system.  
<Ok>
I am looking at a 785 watt. (3x175 MH and 2x130 watt blue actinic), or a 1134 watt (3x250 MH, and 4 96 watt blue actinic) each with led moonlights.  Is there such a thing as overkill with lighting?  
<Certainly>
Which would you recommend.  They are both 72", and have external ballasts. and about $150 difference.  They are Odyssea lights.  I know it depends on what kind of corals, or inverts I want to keep.  
<Bingo>
But should I just go with the bigger one and be able to support light for just about anything.  
Is there any other tips you can give me on lighting situations.  This is my first adventure into MH's.  
Thanks for any advice.
Aaron
<Well, Aaron, my thought is that the 3x250w would be overkill. I have a good friend who runs a 120g beautiful reef, and has lit it for over a year using the 2x175w solution that Odyssea offers with great success. Of the two fixtures in question, I would likely go with the smaller. Less heat to deal with, save yourself some money as well. Hope this helps! -JustinN>

Metal Halide size and T5 question   3/1/07
Hi, Larry here.
<BobF here, hello>
I have a standard 75g 48" reef tank with softies and a few LPS under PC lighting.  I want to make the jump to SPS and clams.  I have the opportunity to buy a MH fixture with 2x250w HQI MH's and 2x96w actinic PC's.  Is this going to be too much light for my softies an the 3 fish and shrimp in the tank.
<Mmm, can be acclimated to this amount, kind of light for this size, shape system... either by elevating fixtures or using screening likely... unless you have dimmable "ballasts">
I'm also concerned about the heat issue.  I have considered a fixture with dual 150w HQI MH with the 96w PC's.  Which do you recommend?
<A tough one... as both can/will work...>
I can get the 250w fixture at a big discount. I was also thinking about Nova extreme HO T5 fixture 432watts with 8x54w T5 bulbs, 4x460nm actinics and 4x10,000k bulbs.  Will the T5 lighting be enough for SPS and Clams?
<It too could work>
The T5's are nice because you have so many lighting options because of the 8 bulbs.  They also generate less heat and the bulbs supposedly don't have to be replaced as often.
Thanks again for your help.
<Well... you do have a choice to make... Don't know that sorting through the many articles and FAQs files on marine light/ing on WWM  will help here... If it were me/mine, and I had any notion that I might one day upgrade to an even larger system... I'd go with the 150 watt MH's. Bob Fenner>

Re: Metal Halide size and T5 question, Flagfin angel dis./recovery  3/1/07
Thanks Bob for the prompt reply,
<Welcome Larry>
I think I'm going to go with the 150 HQI due to heat issues. I just needed to make sure that I could keep SPS and clams.
<Ahh, this would be my choice as well>
I'd like to share a success story with you about a sick fish since you here so many failures by hobbyists.
<Please do>
I have had a beautiful Flag Fin angel for 3 years.  It became ill when one of my older fish died and I didn't find out till 2 days later.  The angel developed bilateral cloud eye, fin rot, hemorrhagic patches on both sides of its abdomen and mouth. I immediately place it in my QT tank. It progressed very rapidly and the fish just labored at the top of the tank. It was literally knocking at deaths door and I thought about euthanizing it. I started treatment right away with 2 antibiotics, penicillin and furan along with every other day FW and methylene blue dips and every other day water changes to my QT tank.  Well now I call the angel the miracle fish.  Its almost back to normal except for some residual damage to one eye. This fish did not eat for 12 days and now its swimming around the tank and just starting to peck at food.  Its not completely out of the woods yet, but if it starts to eat again I just may get lucky.
<Yes... your diligence has paid well>
By the way, I'm a emergency medicine physician and  my wife and friends are calling me the fish doctor.
Have a great day and thanks for the help.
Larry
<A good title. BobF>

MH Upgrade...Options/Considerations - 01/18/07
Thanks for all the help over the past few years!!!
<<Has been a pleasure to assist>>
I am running (4) 65 Watt PC bulbs, two 10,000K bulbs and two Blue actinic.
<<Ok>>
I have a few LPS and mushrooms and about 6 fish in a 100 gallon tank.
<<Mmm, this lighting seems a bit "weak" to me for this size tank...even considering the livestock you have>>
The tank has about 100lbs of live rock and my sand bed is about 3-4" deep.  My tank size is 23" tall by about 60" wide and about 18" deep.  I want to add MH lights to this aquarium and add SPS, but probably no clams.
<<Okay...do think to acclimate your livestock to the new/more intense lighting when you do this.  Have a read here beforehand: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimcoralslight.htm >>
I was wondering if running (2) 250watt MH bulbs with 10K to 14K bulbs would be enough, or should I keep a set (2 bulbs) with 65watt actinic also with this set-up?
<<The halides in either Kelvin temperature would be fine on their own, but many folks opt to keep actinics in their tanks as well to enhance the "glow" of their corals...and for my use, they're handy for "softening the blow" when the halides go out at the end of the day when set to come on a bit before, and go off a bit after, the main lights>>
I have a chiller that I have not hooked-up yet, but it is available.
<<Very good...though not always a necessity>>
Is 250watts too much, or would 175watts be better?
<<Depends much on the particular needs of the livestock you will ultimately have, as well as depth of placement re, water clarity, even what Kelvin temperature/bulb type/bulb manufacturer you choose.  The 175-watt, and even 150-watt halides would probably suffice for most instances...but I would likely choose the 250-watt halides myself for this tank just for the added flexibility (wider range of intensity available by adjusting the fixture up/down)>>
Also, how high should I place the bulbs over the tank?
<<Usually 8" - 12", also dependent upon the factors already mentioned for wattage selection>>
I want to put them in my enclosed hood as a retro fit.
<<Mmm, I see...that may change my thoughts then.  In my experience enclosed hoods with metal halide lighting are quite limiting.  The distance between the water and the bulb is usually "fixed" and often quite close...exacerbating the issues of excess heat, mineral buildup in the bulbs or UV filters, even bulb breakage from splashed water.  Not to mention ventilation is usually not the best...especially if the hood was not originally "designed" for metal halides bulbs.  I'm not trying to discourage you from making this change/modification...just wanting to make you aware of the challenges re.  With these considerations in mind, the lower wattages might be the better choice>>
The hood has fans, so heat should not be a problem.
<<You'd be surprised...do consider adding extra fans or openings for additional air flow>>
I just don't want to burn the other corals.
<<Acclimate them as explained in the article I referenced you to read>>
Also, how long should I run the lights during the day and how long to run them for acclimation purposes?
<<Anything between 10 - 14 hours per day should be ok...I tend to run mine at the longer end of the spectrum (six bulbs on for 11-hours individually but with 30-minutes between sequenced on/off timers...13 1/2 hours from the time the first halide comes on till the last goes off)
Also, these are one-sided bulbs and not double-ended bulbs so I was wondering also if I should place them perpendicular or parallel to the tank?
<<Ah, okay...so probably the 175-watters then.  Parallel to the tank/hood is the most common installation here.  Two bulbs will be "stretching it" as far light coverage goes, depending on the quality of the reflector in the hood and the ultimate distance from the water's surface of the bulbs you may find you need three bulbs for adequate coverage/an even "look">>
Thanks,
Jeromy
<<Quite welcome.  Eric Russell>>

MH lighting, mis-stocking in a too small SW system   11/19/06
I am  trying to make sense out of what I am about to say to you guys,
<Appreciated>
anyways I recently purchased a second 150 watt energy savers unlimited tank mount metal halide because one did not cover my entire 58 gallon reef tank.
The occupants are a golden angel,
<Mmm... aurantius? Needs much more room>
two percula clowns, yellow goby, and a dwarf hog. Coral are elegance,
<Dangerous to crowd, have in small volumes>
hammer, mushrooms, xenia, and a toadstool,
<Do be diligent here re water changes, switching out chemical filtrants... I would not add any other invertebrate life.>
there's 300 watts of light total and for one thing it seems to be to much for the angelfish,
<Yes... I would only use one such fixture here>
also my electric bill is going up more than I thought it would,
<You are wise to be aware here>
so I was thinking instead of buying a new set of lighting could I reduce the length of time the lights are on right now its about nine hours a day, or could I get away with just using one halide and centering it,
<This is what I would do>
that would give me 150 watts of light. I also forgot to mention that there is a rose bubble anemone in the tank, Thanks Ron
<... you should take the time to read re each of these listed species "Systems", "Compatibility"... on WWM... some potential disaster looming. Bob Fenner>

Re: MH lighting, mis-stocking in a too small SW system  11/20/06
After writing to you I am considering taking some animals out whats the logical move Thanks Ron.
<To read as you've been instructed... determine "who stings who" most... what you'd like to, can keep together. BobF>