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FAQs about Metal Halide & Halogen Lights and Lighting for 40-200
Gallon Marine Systems 3
Related FAQs: Metal Halides for
Medium-Sized Systems 1, Metal Halides
for Medium-Sized Systems 2, Metal
Halides 1, Metal Halides 2,
Metal Halides 3,
Metal Halides 4, Metal Halides 5,
Metal Halides 6, Metal Halides 7,
Metal Halides for Small Systems, MH
for 200 gal. Plus Systems, Metal Halide
Lamp Issues, Metal Halide Fixture
Issues, Metal Halide Heat Issues,
MH Repair Issues,
Compact Fluorescents,
Regular Fluorescents,
Lighting Marine Invertebrates,
LR Lighting, Tridacnid
Lighting, Small
System Lighting, Related
Articles: Metal Halide
Light, & Lighting Articles,
Coral System Lighting, | .JPG)
Gorgeous but a big coral eater. An Acanthaster where they "grow up"
on the reef flat.
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Sea Stars: Fromia Sp Selection also MH lighting. 9/10/2009
Hi all!
<Hi Eddie.>
Well I've been reading about sea stars lately and know how hard they are
to keep in captivity but I've been reading that the Fromia species are
one of the "easier" species to care for. my question is does that
pertain
to all Fromia species?
<The ones that are offered for sale, yes. Keep in mind though, that
'easier' does not mean easy.>
I've been looking into the red Bali star and the marble stars. in your
opinion which is the hardier of the two?
<No data regarding the hardiness of one over the other, do try to pick
the best, and healthiest looking star you can. Do acclimate it SLOWLY.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fromiastarfaqs.htm >
I have a 72 gallon bow will about 70 lbs of live rock. Also I plan on
switching my lighting from pc to metal halides but I'm not sure to go
with 2 150watt 14k or 2 250 14k. Would there be a big difference in the
two for a 23inch deep tank.
<Yes, a significant difference between the two. Unless you plan on
having some very light hungry corals in this tank. You should be fine
with the 150 watt lamps.>
Thanks so much and I really do appreciate what you guys do for us.
<Thank You.>
<MikeV>
Metal Halide Migraine, fixt.
sel. 7/14/09
Hi WWM Crew,
<Hello Amy.>
Thank you so much for your generous help, especially for us beginners!
My question is about metal halide lighting, etc.. I have read article
after article, only to come to the conclusion that I am overwhelmed and
over stimulated on the topic of choosing the correct lighting for our
tank.
Since I do not have an electrical engineering degree or anything close
to it, I look to you guys... HELP!!!
<Ah, okay!>
I have a 2 month old 150g ( 48"L x 24"D x 30"H ) salt swim tank with 2"
sand substrate and about 20 mollies. I should also mention that I live
in AZ where my summer tank temp is 74-75 degrees. I currently have a
simple old fluor. strip light. Nothing to get too excited about as we
are moving SLOWLY. I would like to make this tank into a reef tank and
am VERY confused about which lighting is right for my specific tank
needs. I would prefer to avoid a hanging set up as opposed to a top
mounting set up due to tank location. I just do not want to be limited
later in what I can put in my tank because I didn't go for enough
lighting now.
<Understood.>
Soooo, that being said, please point me to one specific light fixture,
no holds barred, that I will be happy with forever, no regrets, so I can
check this box and move on!!!
<Well, if this were my tank I would forget about MH all together and
look towards T5s. Something like this:
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Co
de=CU-USA01123&Category_Code=Current-T5
For MH you will want a dual 250 watt setup for a 30" deep tank, for
example:
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Co
de=CU-USA01164&Category_Code=Current-H.
The T5's will allow you to keep what you want while keeping your tank
cooler, less of a chance for needing a chiller in the future.>
Thanks,
Amy
<Welcome, Scott V.>
Re: Metal Halide Migraine
7/16/09
Hi Scott,
Thank you SOOO much for your infinite wisdom. I attempted to go to the
premium aquatics website to look at the T5s you recommended but it got
me an error message. Could you redirect me? Again, thank you for your
help. I am sure it will save me costly mistakes in the future!
Amy
<Ah, what a pain, eh? Here they are again on their own separate
lines...funny the links do not work. I am sending you this via my
personal email too. Maybe the HTML encoding will help. Welcome, Scott
V.>
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Co
de=CU-USA01123&Category_Code=Current-T5
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Co
de=CU-USA01164&Category_Code=Current-H
Halide lighting decision 4/3/09
Hello everyone!
<Hello Shelli!>
I have read over your site every time I have a question, and usually
it's answered by reading the questions of others or the insightful
articles, but I am not quite sure about this one. (I am sorry if this is
somewhere else, but I couldn't find it).
<OK, no problem.>
I am planning on upgrading to a 150 gallon tank (currently I have a 55
gallon). I only have PC lights on my 55 gallon (4 65 Watt bulbs - two
10,000K and two actinic) and as such I only keep a few softies,
mushrooms, and a hardy LPS. They are all doing well, but I am
researching MH lights and I'm not sure how many and of what wattage to
put on my tank. I am looking to get a 4' 150 gallon, so it will be about
2.5' deep. I want to keep similar corals, maybe adding some more LPS and
zoos. In the distant future I might want to get into SPS, but not with
my current inhabitants. My question is this: I am looking at two
different
fixtures, one is 2 x 250 watt MH with a 4 x 54 watt T5 (I don't know if
I 'need' the T5s, but I like the aesthetics).
<They are a nice addition.>
The other is 2 x 400 watt MH with a 96 watt PC bulb. Do you think the 2
x 400 watt fixture
is too much for the tank?
<Yes.>
I'm just worried about the amount because the tank is fairly deep. Also
if this was your tank, could you think
of something else that would be more optimal? So would the 2 x 250 be
appropriate for my current inhabitants but would I want the 400 watt
fixture if I wanted to keep SPS in the future?
<Na, the 250's will do in either case....do also just consider a T5
fixture. You can keep SPS with T5s very easily and it will save you cash
on power for lighting and cooling the tank.>
Thanks in advance for the great advice!
Shelli
<Welcome, Scott V.>
Metal Halide Query Not Posted In Today's Dailies
3/31/2009
Hi Bob,
Hope you left a few bottles of beer in Coz for others to enjoy.
Yesterday, I answered a query concerning problems with lamp replacement
and a ballast problem and see it was not posted today. I answered and
deleted as normal.
Mmmm.
James
<QUICK, like a lagomorph, check the DELETED files on the mail site for
WWM... I did not see this in the SENT folder... may well be in the
deleted.
If so... send back to the SENT. B>
Lost Metal Halide Query
3/31/2009
Bob,
<Big J>
Now you want me to assimilate the speed of a rat at my age. Nothing
doing.
I just saw that I received a response from the gent I got the query
from.
Will answer sometime today and delete which should allow you to post
both.
Unless I'm in a time warp,
<I assure you we are>
I just do not recall seeing the query. It's in my inbox if you care to
take a look. You are a few years younger than me and might remember
more.
Regards,
James
<Doubtful. Be chatting, B>
Metal Halide questions--help asap 3/30/09 <James, this was
posted ayer. RMF>
Please help ASAP!
I am still new to reefkeeping and am having a problem. First of all, I
heard that MH lighting was the best. I have a 55 gallon tank, so I found
a used MH fixture online used at a very decent price. The fixture isn't
labeled anywhere so I am not 100% sure of the brand.
The fixture is 48" long, and contains 2 250W MH double ended bulbs. The
outer edges are actinic bulbs, and down the center led moonlights are.
My tank has been running wonderfully for around 8 months and mixed soft
and hard corals, along with fish have thrived. Is it too much light
though for the tank?
<I little overkill for a 55, but for keeping light loving corals/clams,
should not be a problem as long as your tank temperature isn't going
through the roof.>
The bulbs are labeled 20K blue 250W. I was told the fixture was a
Corallife brand.
Now for the problem. A few days ago 1 of the lights went out. So I
attempted to narrow down the cause to ballast or bulb. I unplugged the
working light and hooked up the ballast to the none working light.
Nothing. So narrowing it down I have isolated the problem to be bad bulb
on one side.
<OK>
To confirm this I attempted as many combinations of hookups. No matter
which ballast was hooked up. Only the same light would work. So I order
a bulb online. I order a CoralVue 14k 250W double ended bulb,
disassemble and install the bulb. Still nothing. So I pull out the bulb
that was working before, put in the brand new bulb, and again nothing. I
swapped and tried every combination I could.
Results--1 bulb working in both fixtures with both ballasts. Bulb would
light up almost immediately.
New bulb, & other bulb--would not work in either fixture.
<Well, one bulb was gone to start with and I'm guessing your problem may
lie with the new CoralVue lamp being a probe start type lamp, and your
ballast is a pulse start.
Most 250 watt DE lamps are pulse start. Pulse start lamps do not have a
starting probe electrode as in the CoralVue, but start by way of a high
voltage pulse, typically 3 to 5 kilovolts.>
I've got records on most bulbs that indicate the start method and type
of ballast required, but CoralVue is just listed as a ? but it is a
probe start lamp. Problem here is most folks think any HQI lamp will
work with their ballast and that is not the case.>
So I thought I would just leave 1 working for now, and I put it back
together, set it atop the tank. Roughly 3 minutes later the working bulb
explodes.
<Didn't like that.>
Now all I have is my actinics running, with a lot of livestock in the
tank.
How long until I get this fixed before I have major die off?
<To be safe, I'd say a week for light loving SPS/LPS. Could be longer,
but I wouldn't want to chance the Zooanthellae dying off which is called
bleaching. I am assuming you have corals and as the fish without light,
it isn't going to be a problem.>
What do I do? Is it possible the ballasts are too weak to light the
bulbs?
The ballasts do not have labels, they are encased in metal with a
switch, and removable power cable.
<Is there a manufacturer listed on the old lamp itself? If so, replacing
with that brand/type would ensure you would have had the right lamp for
the ballast you have. There are no numbers stamped on the ballast
itself, like an "M" and a number? Best to take the fixture to a local
electrical shop and see if they can test the ballasts for you before
investing in more lamps.>
Help Help help! I can give more details.
Thanks for your time.
<You're welcome you poor dude. James (Salty Dog)>
Luke
Re Metal Halide questions--help asap 4/1/09
Please help ASAP!
Thanks for the response.
<You're welcome.>
More research done yesterday. Found out my fixture is an Odessa 48".
From the forum discussions this a terrible and cheap fixture.
The recommendation is that the stock ballasts with the unit only have
enough power to push maybe 160W. Everything I have read recommends
updating the ballasts.
So yesterday I ordered 2 Icecap 250W ballasts. Another $260 investment.
I really really really hope this works, and the Icecap will power the
new 14K CoralVue bulb.
<Ice Cap does state this ballast will power any 250 watt MH lamp, so you
should be good to go.>
I plan--if it works, to light up 1/2 the tank with the new bulb, more
the light loving coral there. Then order another bulb for the other side
of the fixture.
Do you recommend using the same type and k-value bulbs for the whole
tank?
Or for example can I have a 14K on one side and a 10K on the other side?
<No problem doing this, but I think you will not like the look.>
I have been forced to learn a lot quickly and your advice is greatly
appreciated.
<You are welcome my friend.>
With my case of too big light for shallow tank, what K bulb and brand
would you recommend? Should I move soft coral to one side and hard to
another?
<No, I'd just go with two 14K lamps. I use Corallife lamps myself but
I'm not saying they are the best out there, I just happen to like their
14K look. All 14K or other temperature lamps for that matter will not
necessarily look the same as far as color appearance goes, some may be
slightly lighter and some slightly darker in the blue range.>
Livestock consists of:
Spaghetti leather?
2 toadstool leathers?
many types mushrooms
many types of polyps
Zoanthids
Hammer Coral
Brain Coral
red Montipora
yellow Montipora
chili coral?
xenia
hard/stony coral--not sure which kinds.
fish
1 Clarkii clown
2- percula clowns
1- chromis
4- blue damsels
1-cleaner shrimp
2- peppermint shrimp
hermit crabs
snails
2- brittle starfish
Your help is greatly appreciated.
<Again, you're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
MH Retrofit 3/20/09
Hello,
<Hi there Kiet.>
I am interested in purchasing a MH retrofit for my 125 gallon. I saw a
pretty good deal online for one made by a company called Captive Sun. I
was wondering if you have heard of this company or any experience with
their products.
<I have, fine stuff.>
Their 72 in retrofits includes 3 metal halide moguls and a setup for 160
watt VHO bulbs rather than the standard 96 watt PCs.
<I personally prefer VHO actinics over PCs.>
Also, with my tank (6 ft long), I should go with the 3 moguls and
opposed to the 2 right?
<Would be better, yes.>
Thank you,
Kiet
<Welcome, Scott V.>
Re: Lighting Question, MH... 55 gal., SW, waste heat concern
I'm so very sorry to bother you again, but I have run across more
conflicting info in the FAQ's and have another question. <No
worries, Matt. This is why we're here.> Since my tank is a standard
55gal, would metal halide lighting be too hot and burn everything up? I
have seen that it is recommended not to use MH lighting on a 55gal tank,
but have also seem recommendations to use 2 150 watt MH pendants above
this same setup. All of this conflicting info is starting to get
confusing to me. Any input would be greatly appreciated. If the 2
pendants would be fine, how far above the tank should I keep them to
minimize evaporation and bleaching of my corals? <First, let me
preface this by reminding you that every set up is different. So, just
because someone had heat issues with MH lighting over a 55gal that does
not mean your set up will as well. Whether your tank will overheat
depends on several factors. First, what is the highest temperature your
tank has reached with your current lighting method? If it is in the
upper levels of the acceptable range, then you should consider using
more efficient equipment (such as cooler running return pumps or
circulation powerheads) and/or increase cooling (by adding a chiller or
fans) before upgrading to MH. Second, not all MH setups are the same as
some are terribly inefficient. Consider going with a proper MH set up
with a quality electronic ballast like the Icecap 150W ballast and bulb
like the Phoenix 14k to maximize efficiency. Review this site for more
information on efficiency: http://www.manhattanreefs.com/lighting.
For reference, I live in Southern California where ambient temperatures
can be quite high in the summer and I am able to hang a 150W MH set up
12" over my 24 gallon Nano Cube. I use a fan to blow cool air over the
water surface to increase evaporative cooling and water temperature is
table at 80-81 degrees even on the hottest days.> Thanks again
Matt <You're welcome. Cheers, Minh Huynh.>
Metal halide fixtures 9/29/08 Maybe I overlooked it,
as well as undereducated in some aspects, but can metal halide ballasts
and hoods made for growing plants indoors (hydroponic farms) be used
with different bulbs over aquariums? <Mmm, with some provisos,
yes...> The reason I ask is that I have come across a place where I
can get some 400w metal halide ballasts and hoods for a ridiculously
cheap price. <Well... can you really use such high energy use, waste
heat producing units?> I don't have any experience with metal halide
systems, but am researching them for my new 150g <Mmm, not likely a
good idea here... too high wattage for this size, depth... more
downsides than use... I would stick with 250 Watt or less units> reef
tank that I have and am still in the process of setting up - my 3rd reef
tank. Are there specific bulb sizes I should make sure the ballasts
accept? <Oh yes...> Thanks for any insight. <Mmm... and issues
re water- and splash-proofing... the long and short of this, by and
large I would use only "aquarium intended fixtures". Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm the last couple of trays.
Bob Fenner>
Using Metal Halides 1/24/08 I just purchased an 48" Outer Orbit 2
150 watt 10 K HQI-MH w 2 130 watt 6 Lunar lights. I have a 90 gallon 24"
deep aquarium. I had a nova extreme t-5 54 watt x 8. I didn't have very
good luck with it staying on after about 6 months. <Not good.> I
have my tank stocked with some fish and a few corals which consist of a
torch coral, a colt coral, a toadstool and some mushrooms. I have it
hanging 6" above my tank right now. Is that enough or should I raise it
more and to what height? <Sounds like a good distance, you can always
raise it a bit if you have temperature issues.> I would like to start
raising a clam or two and some more stony corals. <Will be fine, I
would try to place the clams (especially Maximas or Croceas) in the
upper half of the tank.> Thanks for your help crew, Bob L.
<Welcome, happy reefing, Scott V.>
MH lighting for a 125gal 6' long tank 11/5/07 Dear WWM crew,
First of all thanks for your continued excellent support for the reef
keeping community. Keep up the good work. <Thank you Isaac.> Now
onto my question, I'm moving from a 37gal FOWLR tank to a 125gal reef,
that is a 6 foot long tank. I will be keeping mostly LPS corals and
clams. Don't know if I want to keep SPS, most likely not. Now comes
my lighting dilemma. Since the tank has a big ugly brace right smack in
the middle, if I get 3x 175W MH lights will the middle light be
blocked out and mostly wasted? <The light is still very usable,
although not quite as intense. You will need to clean the center brace
periodically, it will make a big difference in light penetration.>
(I'm not interested in designing and making my own hood, so I will only
get pre-made ones.) The other option is I could get 2x 250W (in
pendants, possibly going with PFO), but obviously this will exceed the
commonly suggested 2 feet of linear tank length per MH bulb. <I have
seen this done with this particular sized tank. It works, but you will
have to stock the tank accordingly considering that the center will have
noticeably less light. Just depends on the look you are after.> For
the animals I want to keep, is this going to be sufficient, not enough
PAR or even overkill (is even 2x 175W enough?). Besides tank
inhabitant health and growth, what about aesthetics? Will the 2x MH
lights create too much lapse? <It really depends on your personal
taste. If you want the tank to look uniform I would go with the 3 X
175W. This will be plenty if stock you clams in the upper half of the
tank.> P.S. Color temp will be in the 10k-13k range. Thanks,
Isaac <Happy reefing, Scott V.>
SW Lighting, reading re MHs - 7/23/07 Dear WWM crew
members, <Pedro> I appreciate all of your wonderful support and
knowledge. I have a question on metal halide lighting for a 90 gal reef
tank. If I wanted to keep SPS such as acropora spp. would a 2x250watt
14k MH fixture 8"-9" from the surface be too intense for the coral if
placed in the upper half of the tank? <Mmm, nope> Or knowing that
the lighting fixture would be 8"-9" above the surface of the tank, would
I be better off having a 2x150watt MH? <Depends... you could "match"
other aspects of husbandry to the higher wattage fixtures... but if you
"had time", weren't interested in boosting metabolism... You could get
by easily with the 150's> If I had a 2x150w metal halide fixture
about 8-9 inches from the surface, would I still be able to place corals
anywhere in my tank? Please notify me ASAP. It would be helpful if you
guys/gals could tell me which is better, 2x150w or 2x250w for SPS and
other corals. Peter <Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm the tray at the bottom. Bob
Fenner>
Interchangeability Of Components Of Coralife Aqualight Fixtures –
07/19/07 I'm setting out on a new adventure... a 180gal reef
tank. <<Cool!>> It will replace my 55-gal reef tank (all residents
will eventually be transplanted to the new, larger tank). I've worked
out all the details, pricing, etc... except for one thing. I have an
opportunity to get a great deal (less than half price) on a Coralife
Aqualight Pro. <<I see>> It's the 72" fixture with three 150W
10K's. <<Should do nicely>> The tank will have these residents:
Galaxea Pagoda Cup T. Crocea T. Derasa There are several
others, but these are the ones in need of the most light by far.
<<Okay>> Also, they would be kept high in the tank (except the T.
Derasa clam, he likes his sand). <<Indeed>> Questions: 1) Will
three 150W 10K's be enough? (My math says no since that's only 2.5Wper
gal). <<The “watts per gallon” logic for determining lighting
requirements is really a very poor method in my opinion. There are so
many factors that determine “what is adequate”...e.g. water depth, water
clarity, requirements of the individual organisms, color temperature,
feeding, etc. If you were planning to keep shallow water Acroporids I
would suggest more wattage; and even then not because the corals
couldn’t live under your planned configuration, but because I think they
would “color” better under the higher wattage lamps. But with what you
have listed, the 150W lamps w/10,000K bulbs will be fine>> 2) If I
take the two ballasts and bulbs from my current tank's Coralife
Aqualight Pro (48" fixture with two 250W 10K's and ballasts to match),
could I replace two of the 150W ballasts/bulbs with the 250W
ballasts/bulbs? <<You could...but you will also have to change out
the bulb brackets/holders as these for the differing wattages are not
compatible/interchangeable>> Are the internal components of the
fixtures compatible or would I burn something out? <<Being from the
same manufacturer it is highly likely they are virtually identical on
the inside but for the ballasts/bulbs/brackets>> 3) If what I
discussed in question 2 is a possibility, would the resulting 650W total
be enough for these residents (3.6W per gal)? <<More than, yes>>
If not, what should I shoot for? Any brand/model recommendations? <<I
think you are fine with the 72” fixture mentioned>> Thanks so much!
~Eric <<Happy to assist. EricR>>
Re: pix of the day, magma MH use – 06/11/07 Very true, it
does change weekly. I don’t dare to venture into the possibilities of
next month. Off the top of your head, do you think 2 400w MH and 2 110w
VHO actinics are too much for a 75 gallon? <Yikes! Too hot (temp. and
electrical cost) for me...> I am wondering if I might be better off
with what I already have. <For now... BobF>
MH
Lighting Choices - 3/27/07 Hi there, You guys are the best.
<Thank you for this, my friend. JustinN with you today.> I have a
125 gallon reef ready system. Live sand, Live rock. Right now I just
have a goby, cleaner shrimp, and tomato clown. I am wanting to get into
inverts, and corals. I need a stronger lighting system.
<Ok> I am looking at a 785 watt. (3x175 MH and 2x130 watt blue
actinic), or a 1134 watt (3x250 MH, and 4 96 watt blue actinic) each
with led moonlights. Is there such a thing as overkill with lighting?
<Certainly> Which would you recommend. They are both 72", and have
external ballasts. and about $150 difference. They are Odyssea
lights. I know it depends on what kind of corals, or inverts I want to
keep. <Bingo> But should I just go with the bigger
one and be able to support light for just about anything.
Is there any other tips you can give me on lighting situations. This is
my first adventure into MH's. Thanks for any advice.
Aaron <Well, Aaron, my thought is that the 3x250w would be overkill.
I have a good friend who runs a 120g beautiful reef, and has lit it for
over a year using the 2x175w solution that Odyssea offers with great
success. Of the two fixtures in question, I would likely go with the
smaller. Less heat to deal with, save yourself some money as well. Hope
this helps! -JustinN>
Metal Halide size and T5 question
3/1/07 Hi, Larry here. <BobF here, hello> I have a
standard 75g 48" reef tank with softies and a few LPS under PC
lighting. I want to make the jump to SPS and clams. I have the
opportunity to buy a MH fixture with 2x250w HQI MH's and 2x96w actinic
PC's. Is this going to be too much light for my softies an the 3 fish
and shrimp in the tank. <Mmm, can be acclimated to this amount, kind
of light for this size, shape system... either by elevating fixtures or
using screening likely... unless you have dimmable "ballasts"> I'm
also concerned about the heat issue. I have considered a fixture with
dual 150w HQI MH with the 96w PC's. Which do you recommend? <A
tough one... as both can/will work...> I can get the 250w fixture at
a big discount. I was also thinking about Nova extreme HO T5 fixture
432watts with 8x54w T5 bulbs, 4x460nm actinics and 4x10,000k
bulbs. Will the T5 lighting be enough for SPS and Clams? <It too
could work> The T5's are nice because you have so many lighting
options because of the 8 bulbs. They also generate less heat and the
bulbs supposedly don't have to be replaced as often. Thanks again
for your help. <Well... you do have a choice to make... Don't know
that sorting through the many articles and FAQs files on marine
light/ing on WWM will help here... If it were me/mine, and I had any
notion that I might one day upgrade to an even larger system... I'd go
with the 150 watt MH's. Bob Fenner> Re: Metal Halide size and
T5 question, Flagfin angel dis./recovery 3/1/07 Thanks Bob
for the prompt reply, <Welcome Larry> I think I'm going to go
with the 150 HQI due to heat issues. I just needed to make sure that I
could keep SPS and clams. <Ahh, this would be my choice as well>
I'd like to share a success story with you about a sick fish since you
here so many failures by hobbyists. <Please do> I have had a
beautiful Flag Fin angel for 3 years. It became ill when one of my
older fish died and I didn't find out till 2 days later. The angel
developed bilateral cloud eye, fin rot, hemorrhagic patches on both
sides of its abdomen and mouth. I immediately place it in my QT tank. It
progressed very rapidly and the fish just labored at the top of the
tank. It was literally knocking at deaths door and I thought about
euthanizing it. I started treatment right away with 2 antibiotics,
penicillin and furan along with every other day FW and methylene blue
dips and every other day water changes to my QT tank. Well now I call
the angel the miracle fish. Its almost back to normal except for some
residual damage to one eye. This fish did not eat for 12 days and now
its swimming around the tank and just starting to peck at food. Its not
completely out of the woods yet, but if it starts to eat again I just
may get lucky. <Yes... your diligence has paid well> By the way,
I'm a emergency medicine physician and my wife and friends are calling
me the fish doctor. Have a great day and thanks for the help.
Larry <A good title. BobF> MH
Upgrade...Options/Considerations - 01/18/07 Thanks for all the
help over the past few years!!! <<Has been a pleasure to assist>>
I am running (4) 65 Watt PC bulbs, two 10,000K bulbs and two Blue
actinic. <<Ok>> I have a few LPS and mushrooms and about 6 fish
in a 100 gallon tank. <<Mmm, this lighting seems a bit "weak" to me
for this size tank...even considering the livestock you have>> The
tank has about 100lbs of live rock and my sand bed is about 3-4"
deep. My tank size is 23" tall by about 60" wide and about 18" deep. I
want to add MH lights to this aquarium and add SPS, but probably no
clams. <<Okay...do think to acclimate your livestock to the new/more
intense lighting when you do this. Have a read here beforehand:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimcoralslight.htm >> I was
wondering if running (2) 250watt MH bulbs with 10K to 14K bulbs would be
enough, or should I keep a set (2 bulbs) with 65watt actinic also with
this set-up? <<The halides in either Kelvin temperature would be
fine on their own, but many folks opt to keep actinics in their tanks as
well to enhance the "glow" of their corals...and for my use, they're
handy for "softening the blow" when the halides go out at the end of the
day when set to come on a bit before, and go off a bit after, the main
lights>> I have a chiller that I have not hooked-up yet, but it is
available. <<Very good...though not always a necessity>> Is
250watts too much, or would 175watts be better? <<Depends much on
the particular needs of the livestock you will ultimately have, as well
as depth of placement re, water clarity, even what Kelvin
temperature/bulb type/bulb manufacturer you choose. The 175-watt, and
even 150-watt halides would probably suffice for most instances...but I
would likely choose the 250-watt halides myself for this tank just for
the added flexibility (wider range of intensity available by adjusting
the fixture up/down)>> Also, how high should I place the bulbs over
the tank? <<Usually 8" - 12", also dependent upon the factors
already mentioned for wattage selection>> I want to put them in my
enclosed hood as a retro fit. <<Mmm, I see...that may change my
thoughts then. In my experience enclosed hoods with metal halide
lighting are quite limiting. The distance between the water and the
bulb is usually "fixed" and often quite close...exacerbating the issues
of excess heat, mineral buildup in the bulbs or UV filters, even bulb
breakage from splashed water. Not to mention ventilation is usually not
the best...especially if the hood was not originally "designed" for
metal halides bulbs. I'm not trying to discourage you from making this
change/modification...just wanting to make you aware of the challenges
re. With these considerations in mind, the lower wattages might be the
better choice>> The hood has fans, so heat should not be a problem.
<<You'd be surprised...do consider adding extra fans or openings for
additional air flow>> I just don't want to burn the other corals.
<<Acclimate them as explained in the article I referenced you to read>>
Also, how long should I run the lights during the day and how long to
run them for acclimation purposes? <<Anything between 10 - 14 hours
per day should be ok...I tend to run mine at the longer end of the
spectrum (six bulbs on for 11-hours individually but with 30-minutes
between sequenced on/off timers...13 1/2 hours from the time the first
halide comes on till the last goes off) Also, these are one-sided
bulbs and not double-ended bulbs so I was wondering also if I should
place them perpendicular or parallel to the tank? <<Ah, okay...so
probably the 175-watters then. Parallel to the tank/hood is the most
common installation here. Two bulbs will be "stretching it" as far
light coverage goes, depending on the quality of the reflector in the
hood and the ultimate distance from the water's surface of the bulbs you
may find you need three bulbs for adequate coverage/an even "look">>
Thanks, Jeromy <<Quite welcome. Eric Russell>> MH
lighting, mis-stocking in a too small SW system 11/19/06
I am trying to make sense out of what I am about to say to you guys,
<Appreciated> anyways I recently purchased a second 150 watt energy
savers unlimited tank mount metal halide because one did not cover my
entire 58 gallon reef tank. The occupants are a golden angel,
<Mmm... aurantius? Needs much more room> two percula clowns, yellow
goby, and a dwarf hog. Coral are elegance, <Dangerous to crowd, have
in small volumes> hammer, mushrooms, xenia, and a toadstool, <Do
be diligent here re water changes, switching out chemical filtrants... I
would not add any other invertebrate life.> there's 300 watts of
light total and for one thing it seems to be to much for the angelfish,
<Yes... I would only use one such fixture here> also my electric
bill is going up more than I thought it would, <You are wise to be
aware here> so I was thinking instead of buying a new set of
lighting could I reduce the length of time the lights are on right now
its about nine hours a day, or could I get away with just using one
halide and centering it, <This is what I would do> that would
give me 150 watts of light. I also forgot to mention that there is a
rose bubble anemone in the tank, Thanks Ron <... you should take the
time to read re each of these listed species "Systems",
"Compatibility"... on WWM... some potential disaster looming. Bob
Fenner> Re: MH lighting, mis-stocking in a too small SW system
11/20/06 After writing to you I am considering taking some
animals out whats the logical move Thanks Ron. <To read as you've
been instructed... determine "who stings who" most... what you'd like
to, can keep together. BobF>
Photo-Shock? - 10/29/06 Good Morning... or afternoon, or
evening, whatever it may be. <<Hello...morning now>> I am in a
real mental pinch here with my halides and looking for a shoulder to
lean on (hopefully not cry on). <<Let's see if I can be of
assistance...>> I think I goofed big time, but then again, it's reef
keeping so before I jump into trying to fix things, I thought I would
ask someone with a little more experience first. <<Ah yes...go slow
and research/analyze your options whenever possible>> Here is the
skinny. I just undertook a two-month project to build my dream system.
<<Only two months? <grin> >> Got the okay from the wife and took the
plunge. <<An "always important" component>> I had a 105G tall
(32"-deep X 48"-long) for three years with a 30G sump/fuge combo. I
keep acros mostly, <<…me too>> and have around 18 different
species as well as a few other SPS, a rose bubble, and a Crocea.
<<Ack! You were doing so well up until the anemone...>> In my 32"
tank I had 2X400W halides about 10" off the water and life was good.
<<A lot of light>> Currently I have framed a 125G (6 foot long X 22"
deep) display into a wall and made a 12X6 foot support room behind it.
<<Cool! Love "in-wall" displays (is what I have)>> The display has
a 100g sump, 75g refugium, 30g prop tank, and I even got to tie in my
30g anemonarium which was really great. <<Lots of water
volume...excellent>> I drip Kalk 24/7, dose 2ml of iodide daily, and
maintain a daily avg of: 425 CA, 9 DKH, 1.026 SG, 8.28 - 8.36 pH, 79.3 -
79.6 degrees, 0 nitrates, 0 PO4. <<Very good>> I use RO/DI that
I aerate/buffer as needed and change 20G of water every Sunday. I am
very happy with my parameters, however I am not so happy with my corals.
<<...!>> Since I had the 2X400W halides from my deep tank, I just
picked up another reflector/ballast/bulb and am now using 3X400W halides
over my 125G display, which is only 22" deep. <<Mmm...>> I had
the halides at 10ish-inches from the water surface that I now realize,
or think at least was way too close and have moved them to 16.
<<Indeed…the corals could have been/can be "acclimated" to the light
intensity, but this would need to be a "gradual" process. The organisms
we keep are quite adaptable...but they don't usually handle "rapid"
changes well>> I have noticed that my Pocillopora and a couple of
Acros that made the transition have started to lose their rich color for
a more "watery" color. Some red/pinks are fading to white, blues have
gone pale, my rose bubble just sticks a couple of tentacles out of a
crack in a rock, etc. Nothing is bleached; they are just not how they
should be. <<Does sound like photo-shock>> At first I thought
the color change was because I switched from XM 20Ks to Radiums when I
setup the new system, however I noticed that my best colored coral is a
purple-rim/green M. capricornis that sits almost directly under the
center brace. Also the more I have been reading on WWM the more I think
that the power/distance is the real culprit. <<...?>> To cut to
the chase here, am I "making lava" as Anthony calls it, keeping the
400s? <<400-watt halides are definitely more light than you need on
a 22"-tank, but by raising the fixtures/acclimating the organisms it can
be utilized>> Should I downgrade to 250, or do you think that the
400 at a higher set point will be all right? <<Downsizing the
lighting will be cheaper to run/less excess-heat hassles...but the
400-watt lighting can be used as stated>> Perhaps I have missed the
boat entirely and you think that something else might be going on?
<<This too is a possibility, or at least a contributor...reactions to
changes in water chemistry, feeding, additives, or just being
moved/repositioned in the new system. But I think the lighting (due to
lack of proper acclimation re) is likely the main cause for the changes
in color/behavior you describe>> I am all ears and can't even begin
to tell you how much I appreciate your time to read this long-winded
email and already feel better knowing that one of you at WWM is going to
chime in on this issue. <<No worries mate...is what we do. Have a
peek here re acclimating your corals to the new lighting:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimcoralslight.htm>> Again, all my
gratitude, have a good morning/day/night =) Jeff <<Happy to
share. EricR>> LIGHTING CHANGE
Short and simple, crew. I currently have 360 watts of
Comp Fluorescents over a 90 gallon. I am interested in a 2 x 250w,
10,000K Halides, with 2 x 96w actinics. Is it too much, would I be
better off with 175's? <Simple answer is that it depends on what you
want to do with the lights, what animals you wish to keep. MacL>
Wanting to downgrade lighting Hi Bob, << Blundell today.
>> I have a 36"L x 18"W x 30"H tank with 5" DSB. Planning to
change my 2 x 250W SE MH lights to something else due to the high
electricity consumption and heat contributed by the Metal halides.
Would like to find out what other alternatives do I have in order to
meet the minimum requirements of a 30" depth with mostly SPS at the
top and LPS at the bottom / middle portion of the tank. << I
wouldn't down grade your lights. Pricey as it may be, that sounds
like good lighting. If anything I'd switch to 150 watt double ended
but I'd still rather have your two 250 watt. >> p/s: I have
attached a photo of my tank, hope it helps. Thanks for your
precious time, James << Blundell >> | 
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Ideal halide Kelvin rating? Hi bob, << Blundell here. >>
I'm using 2 x 250W 20K BLV now, I love the soothing lightings &
colours of the corals shown under it but I notice the PAR might not
be strong enough to reach the corals at the tank bottom and also the
Acros are not growing as fast. << Yes I have that exact type of
lighting and problem. I really like the 20k look but the amount of
visual light given off is just way too low. >> Have tried the 10K
before, love the growth and PAR but dislike the bright whiteness of
the light and also the corals ain't that colourful when compare with
the 20K bulbs. Pls give me your advice. << You asked the right
person. I've been looking into this heavily and have decided (for
the time being) that the Aqualine Busch bulbs are probably the
best. But the brand name is only somewhat important, the main key
(to looks and growth) I think is probably the new line of 14k's now
on the market. That is what I'm switching to. However, 10k's with
supplemental actinics is really nice as well. >> regards,
James << Blundell >> |
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