Test Kits?
Hi Bob,
Thanks for the info on test kits, and for the baking soda suggestion. I'm in the process of adding it (didn't want to add it all at once, so I'm doing it over three days). Follow up question: Would it help further if I also added some sodium carbonate, or will the bicarb reach equilibrium as a bicarb/carbonate mixture on it's own? Perhaps I could mix up a stock buffer solution, and add when I add my Kalkwasser... Any dangers here?
Thanks again,
Randi
<Very perceptive on the carbonate/bicarbonate question... Yes, just add the bicarbonate... it would turn (more to) carbonate in a more alkaline environment...
And some dangers in mixing Kalkwasser and the bicarb... best to settle on some of both... and a "mid-ground" in alkalinity and biomineral concentration... Nothing wrong with 350ppm calcium with 3.5 or higher alkalinity... 400-500 ppm calcium with low alkalinity is worthless... Add the materials separately... IMO... or buy a pre-made dry mix of the two and mix/add it at once... or best... look into a calcium reactor... I see one in your future... and you're happy...
Hmm, I would send those test kits back... sounds like the reagents have had it... I mainly use Hach and Salifert test kits... fast, accurate, and inexpensive considering we do many tests... 
Coralline algae can/does spread quickly given propitious circumstances:
plenty of biominerals, high alkalinity (3.5+) and a paucity of competing and predatory life forms... it can cover an entire system in a month at about the best... 
Hmm, do me a favor, and add a few teaspoons to your tank (about one per ten gallons) of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) and check in the morning to see if you can register any alkalinity... 
Bob Fenner
>>

pH Monitors
Hi Bob,
Santa Claus is coming to town, and I was thinking of asking him for a pH Monitor. They seem very useful, but are they more trouble than they're worth, i.e.; will I have to constantly have to re-calibrate it, buy a new probe every x months? Any input on these "gadgets" would be greatly appreciated.
<Is this for linking to a specific controller? Or just a time to time "pen type"? If the former, look to the manufacturer's recommendations. The latter? Most all the inexpensive models are fine... For new purchase of the former I like PinPoint... the latter? I use a YSI (Yellow Springs Instruments) And nah to having to recalibrate them if they're stored properly (moist, in standard solution) or buy new ones all the time... they last for years if properly cared for.>
LEAK UPDATE
I month ago I wrote you about a leak in my tank. After writing to you, I talked to my LPS and asked him if he had any advice. He showed me one of his tanks that cracked right in front. He put a piece of cellophane tape over the crack, then put some silicone sealant over the tape. He said it was there for a year now. As my leak was coming from under the tank frame, I figured I'd give it a shot. (much better than tearing down the whole tank). I'm happy to say it seems to be holding. My leak was very minute, actual water drops never reached the bottom of my tank stand. I got a "growth" of salt creep which was manageable. So, one would want to consider that before trying this. Have you ever seen any one use this quick fix? If you have any comments on this I'd appreciate it.
<Have seen it... and done such things myself... as you can appreciate, not a good suggestion to post on the Net... Would/do encourage the resealing if this tank at your earliest convenience... and investigation as to the cause of the leak (likely an uneven surface the tank is on...)>
Thanks as always for your help, and have a Happy Holiday, Tony
<You're welcome my friend in fish. Bob Fenner>

pH Monitors
Dear Bob,
I'm looking at the Pinpoint monitor. I'm not planning on connecting it to a controller. I was under the impression that these monitors were left in the sump at all times as a constant pH monitor. 
<Some, yes... other electronic pH meters are intended for periodic use... still others are utilized with pumps/valves to feed materials into a system to modify the pH.>
My thinking was that as pH is arguably the first sign of things going bad (or good), it would make my life easier by not having to do a standard test all the time. Please educate me...
<The first sign? Likely your animals' behavior/appearance... But pH is a useful window for "slower", "longer-term" changes... Some diurnal pH fluctuation is to be expected, and the reductive events in a captive system will trend pH downward... but you can have entire wipeouts without a shift in detectable pH...>
...and YES to not posting that (leak remedy) on the web. I could see it now, someone trying to seal up a dripping leak with Scotch tape. YIKES!
I'm going to see if the method holds. Tearing down a tank is the pits.....
<Ah, glad to find we're in agreement>
Thanks again, Tony
PS Just a note, my son (13) recently set up his first FO 29 gal. tank.
Now, he's using your book (CMA) for a reference. He loves it, too. His filtration is an undergravel filter... that all. He's got a damsel in the tank now. He plans on getting only hardy fish (Dotty's, triggers, etc.) If you could add only one of the following (Skimmer, canister filter, fluidized bed) which would be the most beneficial. His budget is meager at best. I help him out, but, want to teach him to save a little dough for the things he wants.
<All worthwhile lessons. The skimmer is my first choice... maybe the less-expensive new "Prizm" by Red Sea... Bob Fenner>

Re: pH Monitors
Thanks again, Bob.
Two more and I'll leave you alone....
1 - Are the Pinpoint monitors supposed to remain in sump all the times?
<They can (but do take out the electrodes for periodic cleaning) or can be utilized periodically... like moved between tanks for measuring, then stored... I would do the latter.>
2 - Is the prism skimmer quiet? I've got a Turboflotor. How quiet is it compared to the Turboflotor?
<Only have second hand experience here, but yes, are much quieter>
Thanks again for all your help,
Tony
PS The web site gets better all time, keep up the good work!
<You're welcome. Thank you. Bob Fenner>

pH/Reactor Advice II
Hi Steve:
It turns out that the brand new pH test kit that I bought with an expiration date of 2005 was defective! I mean this kit was brand spanking new. Absolutely amazing. My pH was most likely around 8.1 all along knowing what I know now. It is now around 8.2 mornings/8.4 evenings because I started to add buffer to correct my false low pH before I figured out what was going on. There's a lesson there for me and anyone else reading this. Just by coincidence, FFExpress is having a sale on pH meters -- very cheap compared to $1,500 in livestock. Sorry to bother you, and elated to know that my tank is doing much, much better than I first feared.
<No bother at all. Glad to hear things are OK. Do remember to get the reagents to calibrate the pH meter if you get one.>
As for the Ca reactor, I need to play with it some more to get a better handle how it performs and its sensitivity. It's only been two weeks. I was just trying to see if I could get any additional input from you while trying to dial it in.
<Now rereading your first query, you seem to be pretty close at 20 bubbles per minute. A little more tinkering and you should be set.>
I will never use the Chemi-clean again. Felt very funny/leery using it the first time because it goes against everything you guys preach. Cyanobacteria came back anyways, probably because I only used a half dose of the stuff originally. Either that or the stuff is snake oil.
<Probably the half dosage. Most of these Cyano killers are erythromycin and it will kill Cyanobacteria as well as some other things and turn your tank a funky color a lot of times. But does nothing to stop it from coming back later.>
Very small bloom right now. Will try to correct with reduced lighting, water changes, good feeding practices, perhaps macro-algae...
<A good course of action except for the reduced lighting. Your corals need their light.>
Thanks again for your ear and your wonderful service. Jim
<Do not hesitate to write again. -Steven Pro>