Understanding pH And dKH 1/10/08
Need some advice ? 125 gallon reef running almost 2 years, 25 gallon sump, skimmer, ~ 120 lbs. live rock, 10000K MH outer orbit with blue actinic compact fluorescent lighting. Phosphates 0, Nitrate 0, Nitrite 0, ammonia between 0 and .25, SG 1.025. calcium 440. I do a 6 gallon water change every week (not ro/di),? well water aerated and mixed day before).
<Have you ever had this water tested for alkalinity, pH, and total dissolved solids?> Tank has Flame Angel, Yellow Tang, male Anthias, 4 reef
Chromis, 2 clown fish, 5 spawning Peppermint Shrimp, nice amount of copepods and worms, a few crabs, snails, mushrooms, Torch Coral, a few zoos, Pulsing Xenia, Colt Coral, some cool sponges popping up once in a while. I've also noticed my snails are not laying eggs like they used to. My issue is with pH and dKH. My pH is 8.8+ by the end of the week and my dKH is around 6. I recently started adding baking soda (~ 1 t per 20 gallons), added to sump early morning before lights go on. When I check pH and dKH they are in acceptable ranges. pH 8.4 and dKH 11.
Within 3 days of re-testing, pH and dKH were off again (ph 8.6 (on the rise) and DKH back to 6. I did more baking soda and tested. ? pH and dKH were in acceptable range (8.2 and 11). I haven't tested again yet. I have seen lots of information on raising pH, but I seem to have the opposite problem. First off, I'm stressing that the constant big swing in the pH and dKH are not a good thing. Is it safe to keep adding baking soda and if so, looks like I may need to do it twice a week, or what would be another method to help control. The calcium seems not to move too much one way or another, is this because the water is not buffered correctly?
<Stop using baking soda for a while, see if you dKH/pH isn't more stable. Adding baking soda is just raising your dKH/carbonate levels.>
I'm wondering with the amount of coral I have in the tank, should the calcium be used up or is the 6 gallon weekly changes supplementing enough to keep the calcium to 440, or am I not buffered correctly so the calcium isn't being used at all?
<The dKH levels you are averaging shouldn't be causing any calcium precipitation.>
Wouldn't skimming somewhat deplete the calcium too?
<Not enough to matter.>
The corals are growing, but I noticed after adding the baking soda, the torch coral in particular really opened up nicely. Should I do larger water changes?
<Ten percent every couple of weeks is fine.>
Any help much appreciated.
<I'm thinking the use of unfiltered well water may be aiding the problem if it is loaded with minerals. Do run some tests on it if you haven't done so already, most pure water shops can test for TDS. Do you filter the well water with any chemical media before mixing the salt for water changes? Also, let's read the links posted here for a better understanding of pH, dKH, and calcium.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marphalk.htm
Love the site.
<Thank you. James (Salty Dog)>

pH Concerns 10/27/07
Dear Crew,
<Josh>
I love your website and I am so grateful that you are there. You folks make all the difference for us aquarists.
<Thank you and glad you enjoy/learn.>
My setup is as follows;
70 gallon tank
Sump
5 inches sugar fine aragonite
90# Live Rock
Euro Reef Skimmer
I Currently have 3 damsels and am awaiting the delivery of my detritivores.
SG 1.024
dKH 9
Calcium 440 ppm
To overcome environmental conditions within my home I installed an exhaust fan. It has helped by bringing the avg pH up from 7.9 to 8.1
With a window open and exhaust fan running, pH fluctuates between 8.11 - 8.18.
After adding C Balance my pH tops out at 8.25 and then comes back down gradually to 8.18. On the overnight the pH goes back down to the 8.11.
As you know, my average pH is close but still below the recommended parameters. I have been dosing part A and B of the C balance at 30 ml per day. I usually wait about an hour between Part A and B.
In effort to increase my pH, Should I add more C balance? Should I be dosing with Kalkwasser? Should I not be concerned? I would appreciate your thoughts.
<I would not be concerned. With your 8.11 reading, I have to believe you are using an electronic pH measuring device. Some of these devices only have a accuracy of +/- .2 which could give you slightly inaccurate reads. Your pH is fine, no worries. James (Salty Dog)>
Thank you for your time.
<You're welcome.>
Josh

Saltwater chemistry, pH and Alk.   - 7/20/07
Dear Crew,
Please let me extend my thanks for being there for us.
<:)>
I am currently seeking some guidance/advice.
I have had a 10 gallon tank set up for a while. I have one damsel, 5# of live rock and a small piece of start polyps (Yes I am aware of the susceptibility to change of a small tank. I have kept marine tanks for years.) I keep a close watch on evaporation and water change about 1.5 gals/week.
I have never closely monitored pH and alkalinity before. I have always relied on water changes to keep things balanced. I know that this is a bit cavalier but it worked.
My goal at this point is to get a better handle on ?water chemistry? before I dabble into a larger reef setup.
I finally have a pH meter on the tank. I do calibrate it frequently. No matter what I do, I cannot seem to get my ph to stay above 7.79.
After I do a water change the pH reads 7.85 and then starts to drop. (I do keep an airstone in my mix water and also one in the tank). When I add Kalkwasser it shoots up and then comes back down, usually settling at around 7.74. For a while I was trying to push my alkalinity up with buffer but have ceased this activity as the polyps stopped opening after readings of 7 dKH.
<I highly doubt your star polyps stopped opening because of the alkalinity change.>
(When I say push my alkalinity I am talking about cautious additions; ¼ tsp. of SeaBuffer every couple of days).
<That's a good method and pace for raising alkalinity. You could also just use 1/4 tsp baking soda or washing soda.>
Following a calibration of my meter I get the following readings.
The Ro/di water starts at 6.1 pH.
I mix salt to 1.021 and the I get the following,
<Your salinity is too low. For reef tanks, salinity should be right around 1.025 to 1.026.>
pH 7.60
Alk 5 dKH
<also too low>
In the tank, After daily additions of Kalkwasser;
pH 7.7
dKH 6
Additionally, coralline algae has been in decline no matter what I attempt.
I am anxious to hear your ideas/suggestions.
<Well, you probably already know this, but you need to raise your alkalinity. I also suspect that your inside air might have a high concentration of CO2. About the only practical thing you can do for this is to keep using Kalk and raise your alkalinity (in your case I'd try to make it closer to 9dkh). You should also raise your salinity.>
Should I add anything to my make up water to sustain the weekly pH gain due to my Kalkwasser additions?
<Raising your alkalinity will help the tank retain the pH achieved with the Kalk.>
Thanks .
Josh
<No problem. Good luck. :-)
Sara M.>

pH Issues…The Need For More “Understanding” – 07/01/07
Hello,
<<Greetings>>
In a previous email, I was recently advised regarding my Nitrate problems and want to say thanks for the help.
<<Don’t know who this was, but am sure you are most welcome>>
My Nitrate is around 20-30 ppm and improving each time I check.
<<Ah good, but still a ways to go>>
It is easy for me to maintain now with partial water changes...that darn wet/dry was the culprit.
<<These devices serve a purpose, but I agree this is often the case>>
Anyhow, my next and maybe even more important problem is my pH levels.
<<Oh?>>
It is always low.
<<Mmm…>>
I use RO/DI water with Red Sea or Oceanic salt.
<<I would use a better/more consistent mix…perhaps Seachem…or Tropic Marin if you can afford such>>
Recently, I've been using Kent Marine "Liquid Calcium Reactor" for buffering new water added, but not the whole main tank though.
<<Again, I suggest you abandon this product and try one actually formulated to boost/maintain pH. Seachem’s Reef Buffer is such a product. (are we starting to see a trend here? [grin])>>
I have even added small amounts of baking soda, (about 3 teaspoons dissolved at one time) but this does not seem to be helping.
<<The Sodium Bicarbonate will help bolster Alkalinity but really does little for boosting pH; it contains CO2 as a byproduct of its manufacture. I’ve even seen pH fall from the addition of large amounts of Baking Soda. Driving-out the CO2 from the Baking Soda will render Sodium Carbonate, which “will” raise pH but requires careful use not to overdue. If you wish to give this a try…spread the Baking Soda on a cookie sheet and “bake” in the oven at 300-degrees F for about an hour. Or save yourself the time and possible grief and use the Seachem product. I’ve found you can even save a little money by mixing Baking Soda with the Reef Buffer on a 3 to 1 ratio and still attain satisfactory results>>
I try to be cautious to change things in a slow manner, not abruptly.
<<Sage advice in most instances>>
My tank is a 160-gallon FOWLR tank with about 19 small to medium fishes, 120-lbs of live rock, and around a 4-inch aragonite sand bed. Last but not least, just before writing I took a pH reading of around 7.4 and a 9.6 dKH on alkalinity/hardness.
<<Hmm…how are you measuring pH (meter, test kit, strips)? I would validate this test as I think a true pH of 7.4 would be having a deleterious effect on your fishes>>
I think my buffering is ok, but not the pH, obviously.
<<Maybe, maybe not…validate that test with another/newer test kits or a borrowed meter>>
Is there anything you can suggest based upon this information?
<<As already stated>>
This is a new area for me.
<<Ah yes, well…you need a bit more understanding of the topic. Start reading here and among the links in blue: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marphalk.htm >>
Let me know if you need any more information.
Have a nice day.
Christopher
<<And you as well. EricR>>

PH<ALK<CAL – 06/28/07
OK, so I am writing again because, well frankly you guys give the best advice!!
<Hello again Matt!>
I am now having issues with my parameters according to what I am reading and observing in my tank. I have what I thought was a well established 24G NANO (please don't frown!). However, my corals are just not doing well, losing some critters and coralline dying. SO, I went to my LFS, where I purchase all of my tank critters, LR, etc...they directed me to purchase Strontium, and the B-Ionic calcium buffer component (one is ALK one is Calcium). I was adding Purple up since day one to supplement the calcium, they said it was only an enhancer, not 100% calcium. Not problem...I also bought and ALK tester...The guy said "your reef tank should be right around 3.5 mEq/L. It was exactly that the first few days, so I did not add the B-Ionic supplement as it is there to bring the ALK up, correct?
<YES!!! Do NOT dose Alk supplement unless Alk test drops below 3.0meq/l. Calcium is fine at 400ppm. PH is not as big of a concern and will naturally fluctuate, Just avoid extremes. If alk is in normal range and calcium is 400ppm then pH will be fine.>
However, now today(June27th) my ALK has gone up to 4.5mEq/L. What is supposed to be?? I thought if the PH and calcium are good, the ALK will follow.
<Do not buffer pH directly, let the calcium carbonates in the system do it for you.>
I have been adding the calcium and it is at 400ppm, I was told around 450ppm is good (which is where it normally is). I add the Strontium once a week per the bottle, and iodine everyday(2 drops). Water changes with Nutri -Sea Water, no mixing needed and it is what I started the tank off with, but switched a few months ago. I have gone back to it. PH is at 8.2, Phosphates at 0, nitrates 0, Temp 77.5...Any advice is always appreciate as usual!
<Keep up on the water changes and make sure that tests are run on the source water for make up (evap) so that you are not adding unwanted nutrients to the system. Let the tank adjust back to the Nutri-system brand salt. Order a quality phosphate test kit so that you are sure of the readings. Let's give the Nutri-system 30 days to improve things and remember to change the water(10gallons) once a week for that time period. Keep us informed of progress!>
Thanks,
Matt
<Rich aka MR. Firemouth>

Ph went way down  6/9/07
Good Afternoon,
I have read a lot about adjusting PH on your website but afraid to change things too drastically. I have a 75 Gallon Saltwater Tank. Live sand, live rock, corals ranging from polyps, frogspawn, mushrooms, Kenya tree, Alveopora, Goniopora, pearl bubble, leather, zoanthids etc. Also have a yellow tang, blue hippo tang (both small) one damsel, coral beauty, dragonet and two clown fish. One sand sifter starfish, cleaner shrimp, peppermint shrimp, lots of snails and hermit crabs. So far they are all doing great and thriving.
My dilemma is that my PH dropped to 7.4 at night and is only showing 7.8 during the day which is too low.
<Yes... think about the inputs here... bio-mass/metabolism, foods... their reductive effects... and the countervailing alkalinity/components of your seawater, calcareous substrate/s... and measures such as skimming, ozonation, water changes... the net result? A reductive environment...>
I was told not to use Proper PH 8.2 as it may not change it due to the alkalinity being way up there.
<... My friend... Please... Read... Don't "just pour something in" w/o understanding where you are, how you got there, what you're doing>
Instead I am beginning to use Kent Marine Tech CB Calcium Buffer Part A only as I was told that adding this daily may adjust the PH more gradually. My biggest concern is that I don't harm any of the corals, fish or invertebrates in the tank. They all seem to be thriving right now, all get along and my other chemical readings are showing in good limits. Just PH and alkalinity seem off. Any advice you can give me would be highly appreciated. Tank has been up and running for 18 months. Most things in the tank have been in there over a year. I was doing water changes every two to three weeks but now am beginning to do them weekly. Have some problem with red algae and yesterday cleaned off the rocks with a brush and netted all floating material. The tank looks beautiful today but know with the PH being so low per what I have read will harm the fish and the corals so want to make sure I am headed in the right direction.
Thank you for any assistance you can give me in this matter.
<Start here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/index.htm
Maint., pH, Alkalinity... Bob Fenner>

pH and Alkalinity, Important Topics...With Much To Read And Comprehend - 04/27/07
Hello,
<<Howdy>>
I've reviewed your site for more info, but still am confused.
<<Ok>>
I set up a 90-gallon tank with live rock and sand from another tank (55 gallon).  Lost a French angel and a maculosus angel in a couple of days.
<<Mmm, aside from the fact this tank is too small for these two fishes, if you did not allow the new tank to cycle the presence/build-up of nitrogenous compounds likely killed the angels>>
The pH was 7.7 and other parameters were fine (including the alkalinity).
<<Even so...it is likely a high organics load was/is suppressing the pH...and is reaching "toxic" proportions with the addition of fish>>
I corrected the pH to 8.3, bought a damsel, the next day the fish was dead, pH 7.7 with a some ammonia present (alkalinity was fine).
<<Well there you go...please do stop placing fish in this system until it has had time to cycle/stabilize>>
I've never had this problem before with switching tanks, and don't know what is killing the fish.
<<Many folks make the same claim...but I always suggest letting a new setup cycle/balance for a week or so even when established from a previously mature system and even if initial testing seems to indicate all is well.  It is likely you had some die-off occur in the transfer and the system is not ready to handle this and the additional bio-load of introduced fishes>>
I'm not sure when the pH is lethal.  Is this killing the fish?
<<Not on its own, but in concert with...>>
If it is, how can the pH swing when the alkalinity is fine?  This is confusing.
<<Though there is somewhat of a "relationship" between the two (and all aquarists have a need and obligation to "learn" about the relationships and functions of the essential earth elements/bio-minerals that make up their systems and how these affect the balance/livestock/suitability/et al), alkalinity is not an indication of pH and vise-versa.  Please have a look here (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/alkalinity.htm) and do follow/read among the links at the top of the pages...much more to absorb/comprehend than can be passed here>>
Thanks in advance.

pH Balanced for a...(rock, but strong enough for a fish?) 3/21/07
Hey guys,
<And gals...
Greetings to you, Adam.>
I really appreciate the Q&A section you have set up.   
Really very helpful.
<Is what we shoot for, thanks you for the props. Hobbyists need a place to sift through everything they read/hear/are told.>
Ok question is this: I just set up my new tank, 24 gal saltwater, 40lbs live sand, 25lbs cured live rock.  It's been running for 2 weeks now with no sign of any ammonia or nitrite spike so I am still waiting to add my clown, brittle star, and frogspawn from my old tank.  
<Ok, possible that the cured live rock and sand has cycled the system for you. Have you tested for nitrates?>
My PH has tested at 7.8 and I wish to raise it up and keep it up.  
<A worthy cause.>
Is there a preference to Kent Marine Superbuffer or SeaChem's buffer product? If so, why the preference?  
<Hmm, product research is something I personally leave to the individual aquarist. But here is some reading for you: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mphprods.htm
Read to the bottom and every link in blue up above. Pay attention to the links that appear on each new page, because the cross-referenced links are very useful too.>
Is it important for me to raise my PH at this point or will it raise with my weekly water changes?
<Mmm, at two weeks, I wouldn't be concerned with a 7.8 pH yet. When you get some photosynthetic life forms in there; i.e.., algae, then you'll have a daily rise/fall in pH due to the production/metabolized carbon dioxide. They produce O2 by day, and CO2 by night. Also something to consider: you don't need lights on right now, as this may fuel a nuisance algae-bloom before you are inclined to deal with one.>
If I do begin to use a buffer product, will I need to use it on a regular basis?
<Only as your tests tell you that you need to. I find that a salt worth its "salt" is good at buffering when you do your water changes regularly. In addition to your pH test kit, you will want to invest in a carbonate hardness test kit. You will see why when you read the link above.>
I really don't want to use a product which will make my tank reliant upon that product.  
<Good thinking. I like to use the least amount of supplementation that I can get by with.
-GrahamT>
Thank you  
so much, ADAM

Re: Ph problems....   1/28/07
2 Astraea snails
2 Chestnut turbo snails (Turbo castanea)
2 Dwarf red hermits
2 Peppermint shrimp
"A bit much on the snails for this volume of tank."
Agreed for a 10g. I originally had only the Astreas, but they weren't making a dent in the algae, which itself was not very heavy at all.
<Well as long as you are aware of the long term effects, personally I think the "human" cleaning crew can be much more effective when dealing small amounts of algae...there are other factors to consider as well including nutrient build up (doesn't take long in such a small tank), water flow, and photoperiod....>
The Chestnuts, which are smaller than traditional Turbos, are doing much better. If there seems to not be enough algae to keep them fed, I may take a couple back to the LFS.
"Kemp...this should answer all if not most of your questions; let me know if you need more detail:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nanoreefsysart.htm ."
Yes, been there, done that already
<Okay....relax.>
, and I still have the questions indicated. I'll keep reading, but if you can help with this particular question, which has me most perplexed, I would be grateful:
Issue Two: Water quality is good overall so far, but for some reason >there is a pH/alk problem. My parameters are consistently:
- SG = 1.023
- Temp = 78-80 deg. F
- NH3/4  = 0
- NO2 = 0
- NO3 = 0+ (barely detectable)
- Ca = 300mg
- KH = 170 mg/L ( = 3.4 meq/L,  = 9.5 dKH)
- PO4 = 0
Here's the interesting part:
- pH = 7.9
I can't figure out why my pH is 7.9. It appears that it's not the water because I am using RO, and my RO tests at KH < 20 mg/L, GH  20 mg/L, Ca < 20 mg/L. It is not a function of the tank environment because the salt mix (Instant Ocean) mixes to 7.9 in an empty, open top bucket. It appears that it is not a CO2/O2 issue because I have mixed the salt both inside the house and outside on the porch and it is the same. Plus, my house is poorly insulated and, being that it is winter in Florida, we have the windows open a lot. It appears that it is not an aeration issue because the pH is stable at 7.9 within an hour of mixing,
<If the Ph is this low at mixing, I would point to he source water,  have you tested it? What source water are you using?  It sounds like the alkaline reserve of the source water is very low....it may need to be pre-buffered.>
still stable after mixing for 24 hours, and stable in the tank. I am using an open egg crate diffuser cover on my tank.
The only other variable I can think of is the test kit (Hagen - expires 2010). It is a wide range kit, and it is a bit difficult to read, though I am confident it is reading slightly below 8.0. I am purchasing a new narrow-range kit just to make sure. Any suggestions?
What could I be missing?
<Would not hurt to confirm the readings with an LFS or friend either.>
Thanks again, this is a wonderful service to the aquarium community.
<Anytime.>
Kemp
<Adam J.>

Reeeaaallly low ph     1/14/07
<Hello Jennifer, Mich here.>
Need emergency HELP! Got a 55 gal saltwater.  Right now fish are in a QT due to ich.  So just inverts, CBS, 2 porcelain crabs, 3 hermits, 1 green crab and some limpets. All crabs and shrimp seem ok, but limpets haven't been moving, but not dead...yet.
<Monty Python fan?>
I checked water and ph was at 6.5....
<Yikes!  If you don't have a pH buffer, add some Sodium Bicarbonate (Baking Soda) at a rate of a teaspoon per 20 gallons.>
I just did my weekly water change (2.5 gal) with water I get from a LFS. I've been using their water for 3 weeks now.  Other info you may need...I've been adding Kent Liquid Calcium as instructed, also Lugo's iodine as instructed.
<Are you testing for the supplements you are adding?>
The tank is only 3 months old.  The ph in my QT is 8.3 (saltwater I make everyday and change out) so could it be their water?  
<Yes.  Have you been buffering the water you use in the 55 gallon?
What do I need to add to this to get the ph back to 8.3?  Any procedural info would be very appreciated!!!
<Baking Soda at the very least.>
Thank you...a devoted and daily visitor (drives my husband nuts)
<Welcome!  -Mich>
Jennifer

Lighting interference with pocket pH tester   1/12/06
Belated Happy New Year!
<Thanks>
I thought I would pass on an experience I have had recently that cost me dearly. I bought a Milwaukee pH tester, waterproof, very nice. Next I bought a new Jebo pc fixture with 2 65W half 10000K and half actinic lamps. This fixture has an external ballast which is very nice, lighter in weight and easier to hang above the tank.
Now for the bad part. When I used my new tester on my tanks, I have 2, it read perfectly, 8.2 to 8.3 on each tank. Before I checked my pH levels again I bought the new light and was using it. On my smaller tank the pH was still 8.2 to 8.3 but my big tank was 6.9!! I panicked and got some buffer and started trying to get the pH up. Nothing was working. I don't know how much I finally ended up adding but I couldn't get the pH above 7.3.
Hindsight being 20/20, I realize how big a mistake I made and won't repeat it. But I didn't find out what was the problem until I tried  to show a friend the way the pH tester worked and had it in a cup of water and turned on. It was reading 7.2 in the cup but when I brought the cup up to the top of the tank to test the water there the reading dropped to 5.4! I moved the cup with the tester in it back and forth a few times and watched the reading go up and down. Finally I turned the Jebo light off and the reading stayed put. And it tested the same as the test kit showed.
I never thought about a light fixture interfering with a tester.
<Mmm... RF... electronics...>
Unfortunately I didn't learn until after I burned up most everything in my tank with high pH, 8.8 was the highest it tested. And of course then I started doing water changes and everything I could think of to bring it back down. It seemed to take forever to stabilize. I lost all of my 'pods, some snails, my serpent star, and cleaner shrimp which had gotten so big. I was heart broken for I don't know how long.
The good news is that after what has seemed like forever my tank is back healthy. Even my 'pods are back and I have baby Nassarius snails too. They look really cute in there. I am still dealing with algae problems like a newly cycled tank but it's getting better.
I am telling all of this to hopefully keep someone else from having a similar disaster.
Agnes
<Mmm, Please do consider writing Jebo re this interference issue... Could be very important to their business... especially when the folks at UL catch up with this part of the trade again. Bob Fenner>

LOW SW pH...HELP!!!    1/10/07
Dear Crew,
<Mark>
Please try to help me figure out what’s happening with my tank. I’m having problems maintaining my PH levels. I started my reef tank about 2.5 years ago. I started with a 30gal tank, 20gal sump, and 10gal refugium. For about 10-11 months my PH was maintained at about 8.3, and then started dropping down to about 8.0.
<Very common occurrence... the readily soluble portions of your substrates (gravel, LR...) have been exhausted... Part of the reason I suggest periodic addition, switching out some for new>
So I rearranged my tank, and did about a 50% water change.
<Will only help temporarily in most cases>
Everything was good for about another 9 months and my PH started dropping again. Thinking that I might have gotten lax in my maintenance, I again did another rearranging and about 50% water change. Still my PH remained low. So I started raising my buffered top off water until my DKH hit about 20 (tank DKH stayed about 10-12). I then started trying Kalkwasser. I was to nervous to use it consistently
<Good>
so I used it 2-3 times a week, either in a drip or slurry method. Still I couldn’t maintain my PH around 8.3. Then I got a new 65gal. tank and my 30gal became my refugium.
<Very good>
I added some more LR, 4” DSB (in main tank, and 6” in refugium). I’ve done a lot of research on Kalkwasser and Alkalinity. I have switched salts from Instant Ocean to SeaChem in order to keep Calcium levels up.
<Mmm, both fine products in this and other regards>
I have now been dripping Kalkwasser 24/7
<Mmm... I would not do this...>
at a rate of about ½ tsp per gallon of water as I don’t need much calcium with the new salt. My DKH has stayed between 9-10, and I don’t have to add any buffer. I did this for about 6 weeks with NO (or very little) effect on PH. I then got a case of ICK, set up a QT tank (had to learn the hard way) and my tank has been fallow for the last 2 months.
This last weekend I changed about 25% of my water (about 25gal) and my PH still remains at 7.8-8.02 (I got a pinpoint monitor for Christmas).
<Another nice tool>
I use RO/di water from my local fish store always. I will aerate my water with a large air pump for 24 hours, then buffer to about 8 DKH for 24 hours, then add salt to 1.025 and aerate for another 24 hours, then do my water change.
After mixing up my saltwater my PH will be about 8.4 but after about 3-4 hours it drops to about 8.1 and has no effect on the tanks PH. Also If I don’t use Kalkwasser and just use SeaChem’s buffers (Marine Buffer, Reef Buffer, or Reef Builder) it will take about a TBL spoon a day in order to maintain my DKH between 9-10. I have a large brown polyp colony, a very large yellow star polyp colony, a small Candy Cane, a med. Anthelia sp, and an extremely small flower leather that is trying hard to recover, and also a hairy mushroom. The leather is the only coral that has shown any ill effects to the low PH. One other thing, I live in an older mobile home so I have plenty of ventilation, (no carbon build up) as I have also tried aerating my water outside for about 6 hours with only about a .01-.02 rise in PH.
So now to my question. What is happening to my tank and how can I raise my PH.
<Mmm, likely simple reduction, the water/system tending to go acidic... and... I would not "sweat" a pH of about 8 ish... Really... if you so desired, you might supplement (differently) the change-out water... with a product of more carbonate base... see SeaChem's line here IMO... But... I would likely leave all as it is. Bob Fenner>
Thanks for your help and thanks for your site.
Mark

Struggling To Raise pH - 01/09/07
Hi,
<<Hello!>>
I've got a six-gallon marine tank. Alk, 10 dKH, Ca, 400, pH 8.0-8.1.  This is what it stays at with weekly water changes.  I want  to raise pH to 8.3-8.4 or 8.5, mainly because of the shrunken xenia but also for Cyano control.
<<I see>>
The problem is, is that there doesn't seem to be any room to add B-Ionic or really any need.
<<Agreed>>
Also, there really isn't enough of a Ca demand to justify adding limewater.
<<Agreed again>>
The tank also isn't accumulating too much CO2,
<<You know this how?>>
so I've ruled out increasing aeration as a solution.
<<But have you tried it?  If your home is new/well sealed, CO2 accumulation may well be depressing the pH (though really, consistent readings of 8.0-8.1 are not "bad")>>
I do use deionized water and Tropic Marin salt for water changes.
<<A good salt...perhaps buffering the water before mixing in the salt will help.  You can try this with simple baking soda (about a teaspoon per ten gallons of water), but don't expect to get the pH above 8.3 with this method.  Seachem also offers great buffering products>>
Do you think that switching to Seachem salt mix will get the pH up to optimal readings?
<<Don't know...I suggest you purchase a small quantity of the Seachem salt and test it for your desired result>>
I'm really struggling with this, so any tips or solutions would be greatly appreciated.
<<In this small tank the Seachem products are a worthwhile try...and do have a read here and among the links in blue at the top of the page:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marphalk.htm  >>
Thanks, Greg
<<Happy to assist, EricR>>

An ongoing disc... High RedOx, pH in a Service Co. tank   11/26/07
Bob,
<Scott>
Here's quick stats (or at least as quick as they get):
8'x8'x30" 1200g tank
16x16 center overflow
5600gph Tunzes w/multicontroller for oscillating flow x8
8000 gph closed loop
1200 gph return pump x4
125g sump
75 gallon deep sand bed refugium x2
UV Sterilizer
Ozonizer x2 (not running)
Korallin calcium reactor (not running)
AquaC custom EV skimmer w/Iwaki x2
Spectrapure 90gpd RO unit
Auto top off
Aquacontroller III Pro
-          Temp Probe
-          ORP Probe
-          pH Probe
400w HQI PFO Halides x8
160w 6' VHO Actinics x16
PolyFilters
Purigen
50g water changes w/IO salt weekly
SG - 1.024
Ca - 420
Alk - 3.0 meq/L
<A bit low...>
Mg - 1200
Temp - ranges from 79.0 - 83.2
ORP - ranges from 475 - 500
<Mmm... a bit high...>
pH - ranges from 8.75 - 8.95
<...High... From?>
No ammonia, nitrites or nitrates detectable The tank is about 2 and half months since we finished cycling (/we last saw nitrates).
I have spoken with you previously about the high ORP.  You suggested that we likely had a faulty probe.  Due to some (*cough*) user error, this probe demanded replacement regardless of it's potentially faulty readings.  The new probe however is telling us the exact same thing.  So my question is what would that imply?
<Mmm, that there is an abundant source or reduction-oxidation potential driving the level to the upper side... Of the gear, situation you list, the UV is likely the principal contributor here... this and a dearth/lack of reducing organisms, activity...>
Our probes are in the overflow - is there something about that environment that could affect our readings?  
<Mmm, yes>
Also, there isn't that much in the tank right now.  There's a few fish, a handful of corals, and a handful of other assorted invertebrates.
<Ahh... with their addition, you'll very likely see a reduction... make that a lowering in ORP>
The things that live, thrive.  There are a handful of things that just don't however and I was hoping for an opinion on why.  Just as a prequel  - we did have a few days where the lights got taken off auto and ran for three days straight and the temp got up to 86.7.  We've lost every acropora we've ever put in there, about 6 large aquacultured specimens all together now.  We lost a Blue Linckia, several Sea Hares, a medium sized aquacultured Abalone, and a few other assorted critters.  Our encrusting Montiporas don't seem to be doing that great, even the ones that were put in after the big heat spike.
<Mmm, try turning off the UV>
The temperature issue is being dealt with.  The tank is central in an orthodontists office, and so all of the equipment is underneath the stand and generates lots of heat.  As long as the cabinets are left open the temperature stays below 82.0, usually between 80 and 81.  But being that it's an office it's hard to control that, and occasionally the doors do get closed which is when the temperature rises up to 83.2.  Is this small difference enough to slowly take out the SPS corals?
<Not IMO/E>
There is also this encrusting algae, that I suppose I should know what it is, but I don't.  It's just small brown spots that grow pretty exclusively on the acrylic, like coralline's ugly little brother.  The spots are very, very tough to get off, and I feel like I'm destroying the acrylic in my attempts to do so.
<Yikes... careful here>
We filled the tank up with tap, and now use exclusively RO.
<Good change>
As we continue to do water changes (50g/week) will these spots recede?
<Should in time>
I've never experienced this type of algae in my store, but it's pretty bad in several of the other tanks that I maintain - and none of those tanks use RO for their top off.  The only other thing these tanks have in common that I don't, is their more expensive higher quality lighting.
In another tank in the same office (250g w/good water quality), we have a Thalassoma wrasse who is doing rather poorly.  One day when I came him and was looking rather "prunish".  The skin on his face and head was all kind of rippled, like he had dried up in the sun.  He has since refused food (to my knowledge) and has lost a ton of weight.
<Genetic problem/s likely... not amenable>
  I was concerned he wasn't eating the food from the auto-feeder, and wasn't getting enough frozen food (2x/week) to sustain him but the decline seemed to happen rather quickly and doesn't explain the wrinkles.  I have been adding live SW feeder shrimp to sustain him in case he's refusing all non-live food but I'm worried that the problem is not so superficial.  Really - all this story to say - have you have seen anything like this before and if so what was the cause/solution?
<Cause/s unknown... solution likewise... to my experience, all such animals perish>
Thanks for your input,
Scott
<Do try amending the alkalinity (simple bicarb., carb. addition), turn off the UV... see where this situates the RedOx and pH. Bob Fenner>

Raising My pH – 11/16/06
Hi Eric,
<<Hey Ken!>>
Are you still in Hawaii?  Hope all is well with you.
<<Yes mate...though my wife and I have to be on a plane back to reality in less than 8 hours time...bummer.  But on a high note, I had a great dive yesterday morning and a great meal with good friends at a very nice restaurant on the water’s edge last evening>>
Have some new questions and some points I wanted to clarify in my mind.
<<Shoot>>
My tank cycled a few days ago.  I did about a 40% water change.  My nitrates actually were not that high.  They were about 7ppm nitrate nitrogen before the water change (The one where you have to multiply the results by 4.4 to convert).  I also added two fish, a Sailfin tang and a yellow tang.  I know they are both Zebrasoma, but I figured 90 gallons with a lot of rock and spaces and put them in on the same day, it would probably work.
<<Agreed…though it is my opinion that 90 gallons is much too small for the Sailfin>>
So far they hang out together.  They both ate the same day I put them in the tank.  I just put on the lights yesterday.  I decided to wait until after the cycling.
<<Ok>>
So right now, generally speaking, my pH and my alkalinity/calcium will just be what it is based on premixed salt water since nothing is taking up the calcium or alkalinity etc.
<<Not at a high rate anyway>>
In other words, the tank is pretty much "dead" until I get some reaction on the live rock from my lights, and until I get waste from the fish.
<<Not true mate…actions/reactions going on as we speak>>
I want to get the lighting, get the tank stable, and at least past the diatom stage (if I get that) before I add any hardy corals.
<<Do expect diatoms, Cyanobacteria, hair algae…all part of the natural alga succession.  As for not adding any “hardy” corals yet…do consider that the corals use much/many of the same nutrients the alga will be using…>>
My pH varies from about 8.02 to about 8.08 with no lights.
<<Ok>>
Actually I don't know why, but my pH is higher when I wake up in the morning than at the end of the day.  Isn't that backwards?
<<Hmm, maybe…is the tank near an open window during the night?  Maybe just a result of reduced respiration of the tank inhabitants (just a guess)>>
My alkalinity is 11 dKH.
<<Towards the high end of the desirability scale but likely fine>>
I am not sure of my calcium, but I'm sure the levels are "normal" at this point.
<<Mmm…without “testing” how can you be “sure”>>
So if my pH is in the range mentioned above, and my alkalinity level is at 11 dKH, can I raise my pH without increasing my alkalinity level?
<<Sure…use sodium bicarbonate…increase water flow within the tank>>
I tested my premixed saltwater, using Reef Crystals, and the alkalinity is 10 dKH and my pH is about 8.10 so obviously this is my starting point.
<<Indeed…maybe even consider trying/testing other brands of salt>>
I have the calcium reactor as you know but I do not have this turned on presently as there is nothing to really take up the calcium etc, and my alkalinity is at the high range of acceptable.  Obviously I am thinking the way to raise the pH is either a Kalkwasser drip or by adding it as top off water.
<<Do be careful with this approach…>>
Can I do this without raising my alkalinity?
<<No>>
I am getting ready for the algae shoe to drop and would like to be able to raise my pH now.  What regimen do you suggest I follow at this point?
<<Run your lights on a 10-14 hour photoperiod and buffer (with sodium bicarbonate) your top-off and saltwater makeup water.  If you find the bicarbonate does not give you the pH boost you desire then obtain a proprietary product for this purpose (I am fond of Seachem products).  I suggest you hold off on the Kalkwasser for now/until the tank matures a bit more>>>>
Also with regards to water changes, should I do any weekly changes now, or is there not enough going on in my tank at the moment to warrant that?
<<The presence of those fishes warrants frequent partial water changes>>
Thanks very much.
Regards,
Ken
<<Always happy to assist.  Eric Russell>>

R2: Raising pH - 11/18/06
Hi Eric,
<<Hi Ken>>
Have a safe trip home.
<<Did...thank you>>
The Sailfin is about 2 ½” so he has a long way to go.
<<Mmm, not in my opinion...behavioral/developmental retardation comes from "growing out" these fishes in "too small" systems as much as placing re when mature>>
I will take your lighting suggestion already.
<<Best at this stage I feel>>
At least I found out that my chiller works.
<<Ha!>>
I can save on heating bills now for my den.
<<Indeed>>
I will put the 108 watts of T5’s on for 12 hours.  How long per day for the two 250 watts of HQI?
<<On 30-minutes after the T5s...off 30-minutes before the T5s>>
I have the lights hanging from the ceiling.  How high off the water do you suggest?
<<8-12 inches...experiment to find what best suits your livestock>>
With regards to my pH being reversed?  The tank is not near a window.  I will call up Aquadyne and ask them what they think as it is their controller.
<<Likely just something we haven't figured on/explored.  See what happens with the lights on>>
So you are saying that I should get some hardy corals to start to compete with the algae for nutrients.
<<Yes>>
I guess it is the same philosophy as when I set up my plant tank and added lots of fast growing stem plants at the beginning.
<<Indeed>>
What corals do you recommend to start with and how many?
<<What is your stock list/stocking plan?  Will this be a biotope or species tank?  A "mixed garden" reef?>>
Will the corals also be able to bring down the alkalinity?
<<Just feeding/the mere presence of your fish will depress/consume alkalinity.  Aside from calcifying organisms, anything that respires/produces organics wastes will affect alkalinity.  Please read Anthony Calfo's article here (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/alkalinity.htm) and follow the associated links at the top of the page for even more information on this all too often confusing subject>>>>
I will check to see if I can find a chart online of the various salt mixes to see if alkalinity of each mix is published.
<<Be sure to do your own tests to confirm>>
By the way, do you know of a good calcium test kit?
<<I find Seachem test kits to be an excellent balance of quality and price>>
So at this point right now, should I not be concerned with my pH being at about 8.10 and just see how things progresses with the tank, or should I try to get the pH higher?
<<The former, 8.1 is quite acceptable in my book...as long as it is maintained/kept reasonably stable.  Trying to maintain an artificially high pH can be/is a real pain>>
I don’t want to start adding cocktails to the tank unless it is necessary.
<<Agreed>>
You mentioned baking soda, is this a safe way of raising pH without altering calcium and alkalinity?
<<It is>>
My alkalinity is at the high end of normal already as you know and don’t want to have it increase.
<<No worries...the baking soda will serve you well here>>
What does washing soda do?
<<Washing soda is much more alkaline, with a pH of about 11 as compared to baking soda with a pH of about 8.1.  Washing soda will give a higher pH rise than baking soda but is also dangerous to use (to both you and your livestock).  As I mentioned in a previous response, if you want a higher pH rise than the sodium bicarbonate provides, you should obtain an "aquarium" product designed for this purpose and follow the manufacturer's directions closely>>
You mentioned adding baking soda to my top off water and to my water change water.
<<I did, yes>>
How much baking soda to how much water?
<<Start with a teaspoon per gallon and adjust as/if necessary>>
Is the “dosage” the same for both top off and water change water?
<<To start, yes>>
Is this a common practice?
<<Fairly common, yes>>
Up to what pH level do I want to continue this practice until?
<<Anything 8.0 or above will likely be fine...you will need to "fine tune" this process to suit your system...and you will likely need to make additional adjustments as the system matures/ages>>>>
If I don’t have an automatic top off system for adding top off water, and have to do it manually, how much can I add at one time without the pH going to high?
<<Perform your top-off on a daily basis at most (twice daily is better but absolutely necessary) and you shouldn't have any issues>>
Is there a down side to doing this?
<<Buffering your top-off water?  Not in my opinion>>
By the way, the water flow in my tank cannot be an issue as I have 600 gph coming from the sump and two Tunze Turbelle Stream 6000’s inside the tank.
<<Excellent>>
Once the tank matures, do you think that the calcium reactor along with Kalkwasser for top off is a good way to go?
<<Will depend on the "consumption rate" of the tank/tank inhabitants.  Hook up/tune the calcium reactor first and add the Kalkwasser only if it can not "keep up">>
Do you have any feelings on Kalk-stirrer devices like Deltec’s?
<<I add Kalkwasser to my system via automated top-off (Tunze Osmolator) through a DIY Kalkwasser reactor.  If you decide on/determine you need/want Kalkwasser additions I feel these reactors are a great way to supplement this>>
How often and what % do you recommend for water changes?
<<Opinions will vary (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/water.htm), but 15%-20% biweekly seems reasonable to me for your system.>>
Thanks again.
Regards,
Ken
<<Quite welcome.  Eric Russell>>

R3: Raising pH – 11/19/06
Hi Eric,
<<Hi Ken>>
Glad you made it home safely.  I'll be leaving for business to Hong Kong and Thailand in about 2 weeks.
<<Mmm, long hours in a plane seat…>>
I put off my trip to make sure all was set up with the tank.  I guess I know my priorities. LOL.
<<Ha!  Indeed>>
There is a few block area in Hong Kong with fish and corals.  Store after store after store.
<<Ah yes, I watched a documentary re a few months ago>>
The prices are incredibly cheap.  It goes to show how much the price that we pay here is a result of airfreight.
<<A large component>>
I have been running my lights.
<<Good>>
Starting to get the brown diatoms on the rocks.
<<normal>>
Do you think I have too much light in my tank if I am only keeping LPS and softies?
<<Many can adapt/will do well under the high output.  Besides, the glitter-lines/overall look of halides in much more desirable in my opinion.  You can always move the lights “up” to decrease intensity if necessary>>
I did pick up a small colt and finger coral.  I put them at the bottom of the tank on the sand to acclimate.  How many days should I leave them there before moving them to a more permanent location?
<<I would put them in their “permanent” locations now and raise the lighting fixture (lowering it a few inches every couple of days) or use multiple layers of fiberglass window screen to “shade” the corals (remove a layer every couple of days).  Do read here (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimcoralslight.htm) and among the associated links>>
You had mentioned about putting in coral to compete with the algae for nutrients in the tank.
<<Yes I did>>
Should I limit how many I get now?
<<Do allow a week or two between additions>>
I was wondering if I get that wonderful snot algae etc, will I have to be concerned with the well being of the corals, or will they survive the potential outbreak.
<<They will likely be fine>>
I think this will be a "mixed garden" tank as you referred to.
<<I see>>
With regards to my pH, something interesting.  I had read about high alkalinity and CO2 in the room, and letting fresh air in the room.
<<Ah…>>
I opened my window and in a period of about 3-4 hours my pH went from 8.06 to 8.17.
<<Very telling>>
Gee, I hope I don't have to do that all winter.
<<Indeed…perhaps you can figure a way to introduce/vent fresh air to/from your system>>
I guess I can hold off on the baking soda for the time being as my pH seems like it is ok. If down the road I get the algae mentioned above, and my alkalinity is fine, then I can adjust my pH with Kalk as top off.
<<The presence of high concentrations of CO2 may well be a limiting factor even then.  But no needs to panic/overreact now…wait to see how things develop>>
By the way, the Tunze Osmolator, is that just a fancy float switch?
<<And then some.  The device uses infrared light to “sense” the water level and will detect a change as small as 1mm.  Though a bit pricey (about $175), these are very accurate and very reliable devices for tank top-off>>
Any benefit of this over the standard float switch?
<<Better function/more reliable…in my opinion>>
Also you mentioned that you have a Kalk reactor, is there a benefit to this over a magnetic stirrer?
<<One and the same…just different mechanics (mine uses a powerhead to “stir” the Kalkwasser)>>
Are you running a calcium reactor as well?
<<I am…but I have a large (500g total system volume) system heavily stocked with stony corals/calcifying organisms>>
I did find out some info on the salts.  I.O. and Reef Crystals have a 12 dKH.  This explains why when I started at 15 and did a water change, I couldn't drop down say below 10.
<<I see>>
Tropic Marin is 7.5 dKH.
<<My fave salt mix…if money were no option>>
Maybe my next water change I will use this, or maybe the life in the tank will eat away at the alk.  Oh yea, again, thanks for the good call on the needle wheel skimmer.
<<Welcome…hard to go wrong with a quality unit>>
Thanks and regards,
Ken
<<Cheers mate, EricR>>